IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


kit2A     12.5 

itt  i2ii   121 

tti  iiA    Mil 


Ui 

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lit 


12.0 

U    11.6 


Photograidiic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4303 


'/J 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Instituta  ha*  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographicaily  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  are  chackad  balow. 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couvarture  de  couleur 


I     I   Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 


D 


Couverture  endommagie 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  at/ou  pelliculAe 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gAographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I     I   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avac  d'autres  documents 


[~^   Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 


D 


along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 

distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  inttrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'una  restauration  apparaissant  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  ttait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  fiimias. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmantaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  ^ti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  ditaikr 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


I     I   Coloured  pages/ 


0 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  peilicuides 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  dAcoior^es,  tachet^es  ou  piquies 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d4tach6es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prin 

Quality  inigaia  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  mataric 
Comprand  du  material  supplimantaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~7|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~7|  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I     I  Only  edition  available/ 


TiM 
to  til 


Th« 
poai 
ofti 
film! 


Origi 
begi 
the  I 
sion, 
otha 
first 
sion, 
or  ill 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmies  i  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Tha 
shall 
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whic 

Map 
diffe 
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This  item  Is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 


10X 

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14X 

u  tau 

M  ua 

l«UW 

18X 

IllUlt 

i|ua  w 

i-uas 

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16X 

20X 

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Th«  copy  filmad  h«r«  has  b««n  r«produc«d  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Douglas  Library 
Quean's  University 

Tha  images  appearing  here  are  tha  beat  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Icaeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covera  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  bacl(  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copiae  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^'  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaira  film*  fut  reprodult  grice  k  la 
giniroaltA  da: 

Douglas  Library 
Queen's  University 

Les  images  suhrantas  ont  4t4  reproduites  avac  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet*  de  l'exemplaira  film*,  at  en 
conformM  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmaga. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eat  imprimia  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporta  une  empreinte 
d'impreeaion  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreeaion  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposurs  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  tha 
method: 


Les  cartas,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  §tre 
filmte  it  des  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  eaui  clichA,  11  est  film6  A  partir 
de  I'angia  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  baa,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imeges  nAcessaira.  Les  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthode. 


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THE 


CONTAINING  THE  ROUTES  TO 


TXiuawcu,  AitdbtC)  atiV  tHe  apcMgn, 


WITH  THE 


TOUB  or  MB'vir-BiroxiAini, 


AND  THE  ROUTE  TO  THE 


COAL  MINES  OF  PENNSYLVANIA. 


Embellished  with  nineteen  Maps  4ind  eight  Landscapes. 
SECOND  EDITION,  IMPROVED  AND  EXTENDED. 


WeUi*¥otfe: 

PUBLISHED  BY  A.  T.  GOODRICH. 

J.  &  J.  HARPER,  PRINTERS. 


I 


1826. 


4  '"  ■•\ 


Southern  DUtriet  tf  NevhYork,  m. 
BE  IT  REMEMBERED,  that  on  the  8th  day  of  May, 
in  the  fiftieth  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States 
of  Ameriea,  A.  T.  GOODRICH,  of  the  said  District,  has 
deposited  in  this  oflfice  the  title  of  a  book,  the  right  whereof 
he  claims  as  Proprietor,  in  the  words  foHowing,  to  wit : 

The  Northern  Traveller  •  containing  the  Routes  to  Niagara, 
Quebec  and  the  Springe,  with  the  Tour  of  NeuhEngtand, 
and  the  Route  to  the  Coal  Minee  of  Pennsylvania. — 
Embellished  with  nineteen  Maps,  ana  eight  Landscapes. 
— Second  Edition,  improved  and  extended. 

In  conformity  to  the  Act  of  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
entitled,  **  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  Learning,  by 
•ecoring  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  au- 
thors and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  therein 
mentioneo."'  And  also  to  an  Act,  entitled,  ''An  Act,  sup- 
plementary to  an  Act,  entitled  an  Act  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  Learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts, 
and  Books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of  such  copies^ 
during  the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the  bene- 
fits thereof  to  the  arts  of  desh^oing,  eng^ving,  and  etching 
historical  and  other  prints." 

JAMES  DILL, 
Clerk  of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York, 


\' 


^       PREFACE 

TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


\.: 


The  ready  sale  of  the  first  edition  of  the  Northern  Trayeller, 
during  the  last  season,  has  encouraged  the  publication  of  an- 
other on  the  same  plan,  with  an  extension  of  the  routes,  and 
the  addition  of  many  embellishments. 

The  present  volume,  therefore,  contains  the  original  tours 
to  Niagara,  the  Springs,  and  Quebec,  much  enlarged  and  im- 
proved; and  to  these  have  been  added  the  tour  to  the 
Coal  Mines  of  Pennsylvania,  and  that  of  the  New-EngUnd 
States,  with  brief  descriptions  of  several  cities,  indnding 
Boston,  New- York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington, 
and  Charleston.  The  type  is  small,  and  the  matter  com- 
pact ;  so  that  the  volume,  although  of  a  convenient  pocket 
size,  contains  as  much  matter  as  an  ordinary  octavo  of  four 
hundred  pages. 

Material  additions  have  also  been  made  to  the  einbelliahr. 
ments  of  the  work.  Four  new  landscapes  have  been  engraved 
for  this  edition,  copied  from  recent  drawings,  besides  three 
new  maps,  one  of  which  presents  a  general  view  of  the  routes. 
The  work  now  contains  eight  landscapes  and  nineteen  maps. 

To  these  have  been  superadded  in  a  part  of  the  edition,  eight 
of  Melish^s  correct  and  beautiful  maps  of  the  environs  of  Bos- 
ton, New- York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington,ChRr1ei!- 
ton,  Nis^ara  Fa|ls,  and  the  Springs. 


.^ 


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rfm* 


I* 


IV 


PREFACE. 


As  important  changes  are  continually  taking  place  in  dif- 
ferent ^arts  of  the  country  included  in  the  tours,  only  a  limited 
number  of  copies  of  the  second  edition  have  been  published, 
proportioned  to  the  number  of  travellers  in  a  single  season ; 
and  it  is  intended  to  make  such  alterations  and  improvements 
in  the  work,  from  year  to  year,  as  subsequent  circumstances 
may  seem  to  require. 

A  conviction  of  the  importance  of  such  a  woik  to  the  nume- 
rous and  intelligent  travellers  who  annually  visit  the  northern 
parts  of  this  country,  first  suggested  the  publication  of  the 
Northern  Traveller ;  and  the  readiness  with  which  it  has 
passed  into  their  hands,  for  a  similar  reason,  seems  to  require 
its  extension  and  improvement,  that  its  usefulness  may  be 
proportioned  to  its  demand.  Indeed,  it  could  not  be  regarded 
as  a  mattw  of  indifference,  that  a  little  work  prepared  in  such 
haste,  and  necessarily  very  imperfect,  should  be  again  offered 
to  travellers  of  taste  and  intelligence,  as  a  fit  companion  and 
a  citable  guide  for  an  extensive  and  deUghtftd  tour.  In 
order  to  add  to  the  pleasure  and  improvement  of  travelling, 
and  at  the  same  time  to  do  more  justice  to  the  interesting 
scenes  with  which  the  country  abounds,  much  care  has  been 
taken  and  much  labour  bestowed,  which,  should  they  prove 
successful,  will  be  considered  amply  rewarded. 


■<i'i      ,'/>.■'/:  ^:>.^*5  ".?»  *ht..!^' 


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Central  Slrtanstment* 


{For  partictdars,  see  Index,  page  369.) 


Pajo 
PHILADELPHIA. 
Tour  to  the  Pennsylvania  Coal  Mines 9 

NEW-YORK 22 

From  New- York  to  Albany, by  Hudson  River. .     26 — 42 

t         Albany  to  Lebanon  Springs 44 — 4S 

Albany  to  Niagara,  by  the  Canal 50 — 95 

Niagara  to  Albany,  by  Stage  Coaches .  • .  99^120 

Route  to  the  Springs 121 — 157 

Lakes  George  and  Champlain 167^-192  &  224^227 

MONTREAL 192 

QUEBEC 208 

Tour  of  JfeW'England 231—272 

BOSTON  ••••• ..•  2S7 

Route  to  the  White  J^iounttdna, ,  291 — 317 

Route  to  Maine 318 — 333 

Supplement  and  Appendix 335—382 

■     ' ■  1 ..      '    •  •     - i       "      '  "•     -       •  ' 

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Notch  House,  White  Mountains S'^^v^g  Title 

Scenery  on  the  Mohawk  River 60 

Niagara,  from  below  the  Falls 86 

Ballston    140 

Saratoga  148 

Lake  George 161 

Ticonderoga 225 

Mount  Holyoke 255 


General  Map  of  the  Routes 5 

Hudson  River,  No.  1 26 

No.  2 30 

No.  3 37 

No.  4  and  Canals,  to  Schenectady  and 

Sandy  Hill 50 

Erie  Ganal,  to  Herkimer 59 

to  Salina 64 

to  Rochester 75 

toLockport ..^ 79 

toBuffalo 99 

•  '  >    Lyons  and  Palmjfra 106 

Syracuse  to  Cayuga  Marshes Ill 

From  Fort  Edward  to  Whitehall  and  Lake  George. .  158 

Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain 170 

Lake  Champlain 185 

St.  John's  to  Montreal (87 

Island  of  Montreal 197 

St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec ....  203 

Connecticut  Ri«'er,  from  Hartford  to  the  Mouth. . . .  236 

The  following  maps  are  also  bound  up  in  a  part  of  the 
edition,  and  may  be  had  with  the  book,  ftdl  bmnd  and  gilt, 
for  one  dollar  more,  viz.  the  environs  of  Boston,  New- 
Tork,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington,  Charleston, 
Falls  of  Niagara,  and  Ballston  and  Saratoga. 


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THE 


NORTHERN  TRAVELLER. 


THE  CITY  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 


Hotels. — Mansion  House,  in  3d  street,  between  Wal- 
nut and  Spruce.  Judd*s,  3d,  between  Market  and  Cbesnut. 

Boarding  Houses. — Mrs.  Frazier's,  in  Spruce-street ; 
Mrs.  Swords,  Walnut ;  Mrs.  Allen,  6Ui,  near  the  State 
House. 

Philadelphia  is  the  second  city,  for  size,  in  the  United 
States ;  and  is  remarkable  for  the  regularity  of  its  streets, 
which,  almost  without  exception,  run  at  right  angles,  and 
are  of  an  equal  and  convenient  breadth.  Some  of  the 
public  buildings  are  worthy  of  particular  notice,  as  among 
the  finest  and  most  correct  specimens  of  architecture  in 
the  country. 

It  will  be  convenient  to  the  stranger  to  recollect,  that 
the  streets  running  north  and  south  are  named  First, 
Second,  Thirdf  &c.  beginning  on  both  sides  of  the  city  on 
the  bauks  of  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill,  until  they  meet 
at  the  square  near  the  centre.  The  streets  which  run 
east  and  west,  are  generally  named  after  trees ;  the  lanes 
and  alleys,  after  shrubs,  &c. 

The  Market. — ^This  consists  of  a  succession  of  build- 
ings in  the  middle  of  Market-street,  extending  from  the 
fish  market  on  the  river^s  bank  to  Eighth-street,  alSbrding 
room  for  a  convenient  display  of  the  numerous  articles 
daily  brought  in  for  the  supply  of  the  city. 

Post  office,  Chesnut-st.  between  Third  and  Fourth. 

Th&  Baxk  of  the  United  States,  in  Chesnut-street, 
between  Fourth  and  Fifth.  This  is  the  finest  specimen 
of  pure  Grecian  taste  in  the  United  States.  It  is  built  of 
white  marble  in  the  form  of  a  temple,  with  two  fronts, 

B 


6 


THE  NORTHERN 


each  ornamented  with  eight  fine  Doric  columns,  of  the 
ancient  proportions,  without  bases.  Beside  the  banking 
room,  which  is  large,  occupying  the  centre,  and  lighted 
through  a  glass  dome,  there  are  many  other  apartments^ 
particularly  those  devoted  to  the  printing  of  the  notes, 
and  that  below,  which  contains  the  furnace  for  wanning  it 
with  Lehigh  coal  in  the  winter. 

Gerard*s  Bank,  in  Third,  facing  Dock-street.  This 
building  is  also  of  marble,  and  presents  a  beautiful  roit  of 
six  Corinthian  columns. 

The  Bank  of  Pennstltania,  opposite,  has  two  fronts, 
on  Second  and  Dock  streets,  each  with  six  Ionic  columns. 
This  is  another  chaste  and  beautiful  building  of  white 
marble. 

The  State  House,  in  Chesnut-street,  between  Fifth 
and  Sixth  streets,  is  a  large  brick  building,  with  court 
houses,  &c.  at  either  end.  In  the  front  room,  east  of  the 
main  entrance,  the  old  Continental  Congress  held  their 
sessions ;  and  there  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was 
signed,  July  4th,  1776. 

Above  is  Feale's  Museum,  which  contains  a  large  col- 
lection of  curiosities  of  various  descriptions.  The  birds 
are  very  numerous,  but  not  well  preserved.  The  huge 
skeleton  of  a  mammoth  will  attract  particular  attention, 
being  represented  entire,  for  the  parts  which  were  de- 
ficient on  one  side,  have  been  supplied  by  imitations  of 
those  on  the  other. 

The  ATHBNiBUH  is  adjoining,  open  all  day  to  strangers. 

The  Philosophical  Society's  Library  and  Cabinet. 

Independence  Square  is  a  fine  shaded  piece  of  ground, 
behind  the  State  House.  Opposite  to  it,  in  Walnut-street, 
is  the  State  Prison,  built  of  dark  stone,  and  connected 
with  a  yard  enclosed  by  high  walls. 

CfTT  Library,  Fifth-street,  open  to  the  public  from 
2  P.  M.    See  Franklin's  apparatus,  and  Cromwell's  clock. 

Washington  Square  is  on  the  other  side  of  Sixth- 
street,  with  a  handsome  church  on  the  southern  side,  with 
a  range  of  wooden  columns. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  a  large  and  adng{,irab1e 
institution,  in  the  next  street,  where  great  numbers  of 
sick  are  attended.  Twenty-five  cents  will  secure  admis- 
sion to  the  building  and  gardens,  and  also  to  the  top. 


t 


TRAVELLER. 


et.  This 
ful  row  of 

70  fronts, 
columns* 
of  white 

een  Fifth 
ith  court 
ast  of  the 
leld  their 
ience  was 

large  col- 
rbe  birds 
rhe  huge 
ittention, 
were  de- 
lations of 

trangers. 
Cabinet. 
r  ground, 
iit-street, 
onnected 

)Iic  from 
i*8  clock. 
>f  Sixth- 
ide,  with 

dniirable 
nbers  of 
e  admii!- 
top. 


*m 


I 


West^s  Celebrated  Picture  of  Christ  healing  the 
sick,  is  exhibited  in  a  neat  little  building  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  street.  It  represents  the  Saviour  surrounded 
by  a  crowd  of  persons  in  the  temple,  among  whom  are 
observed  many  afBicted  with  various  diseases,  pressing 
forward  to  be  healed.  In  front  is  a  paralytic  woman, 
borne  by  two  men,  whose  healthy  countenances  form  a 
stdking  contrast  with  her  cadaverous  aspect;  and  the' 
painter  has  given  a  reddish  tint  lo  her  feet,  which  seem 
to  have  already  felt  the  miraculous  influence.  A  blind 
man  appears  behind,  led  by  his  sons ;  and  on  the  left 
hand  is  an  infant  supported  by  its  mother,  with  a  poor 
blind  girl  and  other  figures.  Near  the  centre  is  a 
lunatic  boy,  rather  too  shocking  a  subject  for  such  a  pic« 
ture;  and  a  number  of  Jewish  RaLbis  are  collected, 
with  countenances  expressive  of  violent  passions. 

The  apartment  is  admirably  calculated  for  the  display 
of  the  picture,  which  is  universally  considered  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  interesting  in  the  United  States. 

The  Theatre,  in  Chesnut-street,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh  streets,  has  a  marble  front,  with  the  entrance 
under  a  portico,  ornamented  with  statues  of  Comedy  and 
Tragedy. 

The  Masonic  Hall  is  a  little  beyond,  and  somewhat 
in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  small  court  yard  in  front. 

The  Academy  of  Arts,  Chesnut-street,  between  Tenth 
and  Eleventh,  contains  a  collection  of  statues,  busts,  &c. 
in  marble  and  plaster,  ranged  in  an  apartment  lighted 
Arom  the  top ;  and  beyond,  a  gallery  of  pictures  with 
many  specimens  of  the  works  of  American  artists,  par- 
ticularly of  Alston,  among  which  is  conspicuous,  that  of 
the  dead  body  restored  to  life  by  the  bones  of  the  prophet 
Elisha. 

Mr.  Sully's  Exhibition  of  Paintings  is  opposite  the 
State  House,  and  contains  fine  pictures. 

The  University  contains  a  medical  department  and  the 
Wistar  Museum,  with  a  library,  garden,  &c. 

The  Orphans*  and  the  Widows'  Asylums  are  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city. 

•Academy  of  JV*a^  Sciences,  PenrCs  hmsCf  Letitia  court* 
United  States  minti  &c.  &c,  ;* 


p>^■ 


8 


THE  NORTHERN 


There  are  two  medicd  instituti<m$  in  this  city,  where 
lectures  are  delivered  to  great  numbers  of  students. 

The  Deqf  and  Dumb  Jiiylum,  is  a  valuable  institution ; 
as  is  thi  Primda*  Alma  House  in  Walnut-street,  between 
Third  and  Fourth,  where  poor  families  are  placed  in  sepa- 
rate houses,  among  small  gardens,  and  furnished  with 
empldyment. 

Mr.  Bedell's  (episcopal)  church  in  Eighth-street,  and 
Mr.  Montgomery's,  in  Tenth,  are  considered  the  finest  in 
the  city.    The  latter  is  in  a  kind  of  Gothic  style. 

The  bridge  over  the  Schuylkill,  the  Water  works,  aAd 
Pratt's  garden,  are  objects  worthy  of  particular  notice ; 
and  as  they  lie  a  short  distance  from  each  othei',  may  all 
be  visited  at  once.  The  former  reaches  over  the  river 
with  a  singte  arch  of  feet.  The  road  near  the  bank 
leads  up  to  the  others. 

The  ScHvtLiuLL  Water  works.  Pipes  more  than  15 
mites ;  elpenae  of  raising,  $4  a  day.  There  is  a  larger 
stone  building  of  chaste  architecture  containing  five  larg» 
watei^  Wl^eels,  which  are  capable  of  raising  7  millions  of 

Sillons  in  24  hours.  They  are  turned  by  a  current  firom; 
6  dam  above.  The  reservoirs  are  on  the  hill  above, 
which  is  higher  than  any  part  of  the  city,  and  supplies  all' 
except  the  LiberHes,  They  both  contain  11  millions  of 
gallons.  The  steam  engine  is  no  longer  used.  The  Keeper 
demands  nothing  (or  showing  the  works. 

Stags  Routes  from  Philadelphia.  (See  the  end  of 
the  volume.) 

Route  prom  PHILADELPHIA  to  NEW-YORK. 
(See  page  IS.) 


'^'-f 


TRAVELLER. 


9 


ROUTE  TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 


In  consequence  of  the  opening  of  the  vast  beds  of  coal 
between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  Rivers,  at  a  distance 
of  about  SO  or  100  miles  north  of  Philadelphia,  that 
tract  of  country  has  become  an  object  of  great  interest ; 
and  since  the  travelling  has  been  recently  improved  by  the 
construction  of  roads  and  canals,  and  the  establishment 
of  good  inns,  stage  coaches,  and  canal  boats,  a  jaunt  in 
that  direction  is  now  a  very  common  and  fashionable  one. 

The  journey  may  be  performed  to  the  Coal  Mines  by 
two  routes:   either  by  stage  coaches  along  the  course  of 
the  Delaware  and  Lehigh  Rivers,  or  in  the  canai  boats  on 
the  Schuylkill.     The  latter  is  recommended,  but  froni 
Mount  Carbon,  the  head  of  navigation,  to  Mawh  Chunkf 
35  miles,  the  road  is  passable  only  in  wagons.    By  going 
thence  to  Easton,  you  find  stage  coaches  to  the  Erie  canal 
and  New- York  city.      In  the  tract  of  country  above 
described,  are  found  inexhaustible  quantities  of  coal, 
in   elevated   ridges  and   mountains  of   the  Alleghany 
range,  which  are  supposed  to  be  connected  with  those 
which  are  known   on  the  western  side  of  the  range, 
although    they  are    of  different    characteristics.      The 
western  coal  is  easily  combustible,  and  resembles  that  im- 
ported  from  Liverpool,  Sic.  while  the  former  is  hard, 
very  difficult  to  kindle,  and  burns  with  very  little  flame* 
It  is,  however,  of  great  purity,  being  of  that  sort  known 
to  geologists  by  the  name  of  Anthrocite,  and  is  now  very 
extensively  used  for  fuel  in  Philadelphia,  and  even  in  New- 
York.    It,  however,  requires  a  fire  place  on  the  plan  of  a 
furnace,  and  a  little  experience  in  managing  it.    The  va- 
rieties of  this  coal  come  down  in  a  kind  of  rude  square 
boats,  called  arks,  drawing  only  13  or  15  inches  of  water, 
but  containing  about  250  bushels  each,  which  may  usually 
be  seen  on  the  shores  of  the  Schuylkill,  and  at  the  docks 
in    the  Delaware.'    The  coal  which  goes  to  New- York 
is  transported  in  sloops  and  schooners ;    but  a  canal 
has    been  begun  through  New^'Jersey,  which  will   fa- 

.      2B 


10 


THE  NORTHERN 


cilitate  the  communication.  It  is  only  3  or  4  years 
since  this  coal  was  supposed  to  be  entirely  worthless ; 
and  now  the  demand  is  enormous.*" 


I 


*  General  Remarks  on  the  Public  Works  of  Pennsylvania, 

The  first  turnpike  ever  made  in  America  was  made  in  Penn- 
sylvania ;  and  now  there  are  nearly  2800  miles  of  the  best 
turnpikes  in  the  Union,  accomplished  at  an  expense  of  $8,000, 
000!  45  stupendous  bridges  have  been  erected  since  the 
▼ear  1800,  at  an  expense  of  $3,800,000 !  and  $6,000,000  have 
Deen  expended  on  the  inland  navigation,  (the  Scnuylkill  navi- 

Sition  $1,961,483,  the  Union  Canal,  old  and  new,  $950,000, 
e  Lehigh  $600,000 ;  the  stock,  old  and  new,  in  the  Chesa- 
peake and  Delaware  Canal,  owned  by  Pennsylvania,  $700,000; 
the  Conewango  Canals  and  the  other  improvements  on  the 
Sus^uehannah,  &c.  being  a  total  of  about  $5,000,000  for  inland 
navigation.)  in  addition  to  the  sums  now  expending.  The 
aggregate  length  of  the  Union  Canal  and  the  Schui^kill  and 
Xjehi^  navigations,  now  completed,  is  about  211  miles ;  and 
the  lockage,  &c.  double  the  amount  of  the  Erie  Canal  of  New- 
Yoi^.  The  above  sums  expended  by  Pennsylvania,  for  roads, 
Inridges,  and  inland  navigation,  have  been  about  $16,000,000, 
in  addiUon  to  the  county  roads,  and  in  addition  to  the  immense 
sums  which  have  been  expended  on  other  objects,  and  in  addi- 
tion to  the  large  sums  now  expending.  PniU  Paper, 

A  steam  boat  communication  is  to  be  opened  from  the  Sus' 
quehannah  to  .Lancaster  J  to  be  completed  oh  July  4th,  1827. 
Ilie  distance  is  18  miles.  There  will  be  9  dams  and  9  locks, 
each  about  7  feet  lift ;  and  the  whole  expense  is  to  be,  by  con- 
tract, $53,240. 

Proposed  Pennsylvania,  or  Su^quehannah  and  Alleghany 
Canal, 

The  canal  commissioners  of  Pennsylvania,  in  1825,  made 
surveys  of  routes  for  a  canal  to  meet  the  waters  of  these  two 
rivers ;  the  general  estimates  of  which  were  as  follows : 

1st  From  the  Susquehannah  to  the  Juniata,  267  miles,  inclu- 
ding a  rail  road  of  28  miles,  $3,045,900,  160  locks. 

from  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata  to  Pittsburg,  three  routes 
were  surveyed. 

Northern  route,  353  miles,  260  locks,  $4,324,100. 

West  Branch  route,  365  miles,  200  locks,  $3,846, 700. 

Clearfield  Creek  route,  394  miles,  310  locks,  $4,754,200. 

The  natural  difficulties  are  so  great  on  some  parts  of  the 
routes  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  that  the  whole  work  will* 
probably  not  be  immediately  commenced.    There  is  a  portion 


TRAVELLER. 


11 


)r  4  years 
ivorthless ; 


insylvania, 

le  in  Pcnn- 
of  the  best 
i  of  $8,000, 

since  the 
00,000  have 
lylkill  navi- 
,  $950,000, 
the  Chesa- 
,  $700,000; 
!nts  on  the 
)  for  inland 
ling.  The 
lu^kill  and 
miles;  and 
lalof  New- 
,  for  roads, 
16,000,000, 
lie  immense 
nd  in  addi* 

Paper, 
m  the  Sus' 

4th,  1827. 
nd  9  locks, 
)e,  by  con- 

Alleghany 

825,  made 
these  two 

)ws: 

[lies,  inclu- 

iree  routes 


700. 
r54,200. 
arts  of  the 
work  will* 
is  a  portion 


Ik 


The  whole  length  of  the  line  of  nayigation,  undertaken 
by  the  Schuylkill  company,  b  108  miles ;  and  the  work  is 
considered  the  greatest  ever  performed  in  this  country  by 
private  individuals.  It  commences  at  the  Lancaster 
Schuylkill  bridge,  and  ends  at  Mount  Carbon.  62  miles 
of  it  are  by  canals,  and  46  by  pools  in  the  river.  The 
number  of  houses  for  lock  keepers,  is  65,  the  number  of 
locks  below  Reading,  39,  (toll  6i  cents)  and  above 
Reading,  81,  (toll  4  cents)  being  in  the  whole  120,  of 
which  28  are  guard  locks ;  overcoming  a  fall  of  588  feet. 
Toll  on  a  ton  $11  351  cents. 

The  obstacles  which  the  surface  of  the  country  presents 
to  works  of  such  a  nature  in  this  state,  are  unusually  great, 
as  may  be  supposed,  when  it  is  remarked,  that  eight  ranges 
of  mountains  pass  through  Pennsylvania  from  north-east 
to  south-west,  and  that  the  height  of  land  is  supposed  to 
be  8  or  900  feet  in  the  lowest  place,  so  that  the  rivers  de- 
scend very  much  in  their  courses.  It  has  been  necessary 
to  make  more  lockage  on  the  Schuylkill  line,  than  on  the 
whole  Erie  Canal  in  New- York.  Beside  this,  the  coun- 
try is  of  the  transition  formation,  with  sloping  strata, 
which  causes  much  leaking. 

In  1825,  the  expense  had  amounted  to  nearly  3  mil- 
lions ;  and  it  was  expected  that  another  million  would  be 
required  to  complete  the  navigation.  The  articles  brought 
down,  are  coal,  lumber,  limestone,  iron  ore,  with  flour, 
and  many  products  of  agriculture  and  manufacture. 

The  amount  of  tolls  collected  in  1825,  was  only  $15,775 ; 
but  the  canal  was  open  only  a  part  of  the  season. 

ROAD  TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 

The  stage  coach  starts  for  Easton  every  Sunday,  Tues- 
day, and  Thursday  ;  and  returns  the  following  days.  It 
goes  from  Field^s,  in  Race*  street,  between  Sd  and  4th 
streets. 

of  53  miles,  however,  which  is  of  much  easier  execution ;  and, 
it  has  been  su^ested,  should  be  first  undertaken.  This  is  tihe 
eastern  part  olthe  line,  where  only  one  route  has  been  pro- 
posed, and  would  extend  the  navigation  from  the  termination 
of  the  Union  Canal  into  the  intenor  of  the  state. 


13 


THE  NORTHERN 


Philadelphia  to  Eaaton,  56  miles, 

Rising  Sun,  4 

Branchtown  (Child's  tavern)  6 


8 

S9 
14 
16 


H 


Sboemakertown, 
Jenkintown, 
^  V  Abington, 

Willowgrovei 

Horsham, 

Graham  park, 

Newville, 

Doyleston, 

Danville, 

Roderick's  tavern, 

Tohicken  bridge, 

Artsville  post  office, 

Easton,     (See  page  16.)    56 

CANAL  ROUTE  TO  THE  GOAL  MINES. 

The  canal  boats  start  on  the  Schuylkill  at  regular  hours, 
for  which  the  traveller  is  referred  to  the  newspapers.  A 
carriage  will  be  necessary,  as  the  boats  lie  at  the  western 
extremity  of  the  city. 

Manatunk 

Is  a  large  manufacturing  village,  which  began  to  be 
built  only  about  1319  or  1820.  The  manufactories  are 
furnished  with  water  by  a  canal  3  miles  in  length,  through 
which  the  boat  will  pass.  In  1825  there  were  six  build- 
ings of  this  description,  some  of  them  150  feet  long,  call- 
ed the  Flat  Rock,  Woodville,  &c.  Manufactories.  Keat- 
ing &  Go's,  is  intended  for  6000  spindles,  with  water 
looms  for  weaving.  ^ 

The  building  is  202  feet  long  and  45  wide. 

Water  power  is  still  sufficient  for  an  immense  number. 
There  is  an  oil,  paper,  and  grist  mill  at  this  place ;  and  a 
considerable  village  formed  of  the  dwellings  of  the  work- 
men, stores,  (Sec.  This  tract  of  country  is  very  rich  in 
water  falls.  The  county  of  Delaware,  which  is  very 
small,  contains  about  130  manufactories  of  differetit  de- 
scriptions, moved  by  ws^er. 


TRAVELLER. 


13 


milesi 


ES. 

lar  hours, 
ipers.  A 
i  western 


'wi 


m  to  be 
ones  are 
,  through 
ix  build- 
Dng,  call- 
Keat- 
th  water 


number. 

; ;  and  a 

be  work- 
rich  in 
is  very 

rent  dc< 


Passing  from  the  canal,  the  boat  enters  the  Flat  Rock 
Basin  and  the  river. 

Pltmovth  Locks.  Here  is  a  canal  aboat  )  of  a  mile 
long.  A  little  below  it  is  a  large  spring  which  supplies  a 
mill.  It  yields  such  a  surprising  stream  of  water,  that  it 
was  once  proposed  to  conduct  it  to  Philadelphia  for  the 
use  of  the  city.  The  marble  quarries  are  aho  in  this 
vicinity ;  from  which  stone  is  sent  to  the  same  plaee. 

NORRISTOWN. 

This  place  contains  some  fine  houses,  as  well  as  a  court 
house,  jail,  and  two  churches,  one  in  the  Gothic  style, 
which  stands  in  a  conspicuous  situation.  A  cotton  manu* 
factory  or  two  will  be  found  here  ;  but  the  village  is  on 
the  side  of  the  river  with  the  canal. 

Th2  Sluice.  This  b  a  place  where  the  current  of  the 
river  was  very  rapid,  and  required  a  dam-^  miles  from 
Norristowo.    Catfish  Island  Dam,  1  mile. 

Rbadimo,  64  miles  firom  Philadelphia.  This  is  a  place 
of  considerable  importance,  inhabited  by  Germans,  and 
contains  some  handsome  public  buildings.  The  Ifnion 
Can<U  begins  near  the  town. 

From  Reading,  the  road  passes  for  some  distance  near 
the  river,  and  affords  an  opportunity  to  see  the  canals, 
dfims,  &c.  made  to  assist  the  navigation.  It  passes  near 
Ihmean^a  Job,  a  piece  of  deep  cutting  in  a  solid  rock,  60 
feet  down.    This  place  is  5  or  6  miles  from  Reading. 

The  road  to  Hamburgh  from  Reading,  lies  through  the 
Great  Limestone  Valley  of  Pennsylvania ;  which  has  the 
Kittatinny  chain  of  mountains  on  the  north,  and  the  Blue 
Ridge  on  the  south.  The  surface  is  beautifully  varied  by 
the  natural  undulations  of  the  surface;  and  the  xoad  af« 
fords  a  very  fine  succession  of  beautiful  scenes,  where  the 
well-cultivated  farms  are  usually  backed  by  ranges  of 
fine  mountains.  The  inhabitants  dwell  in  good,  and  often 
handsome  houses,  while  their  great  stone  bams  speak 
good  and  thorough  husbandry. 

The  Mountain  Dam,  near  Hamburgh,  is  27  feet  high. 

Hamburgh.  '  ' 

* 

This  is  a  small  village  with  nearly  an  hundred  houses, 
with  a  church  situated  in  a  romantic  position^  at  the  en- 
trance of  the 


14 


THE  NORTHERN 


% 


Schuylkill  Water  Gap.  Thii  is  a  narrow  gorge, 
through  which  the  river  runs  over  a  steep  and  rocky  chan- 
nel for  4  or  5  miles ;  leaving  no  room  upon  its  banks, 
which  rise  abruptly  on  each  side  to  the  height  of  several 
hundred  feet.  The  road  has  been  cut  out  along  the  face 
of  one  of  these  ranges,  at  a  great  elevation ;  where  the 
surface  is  in  many  places  of  such  a  declivity,  as  to  require 
it  to  be  supported  by  walls  of  stone.  The  views  which 
are  here  afforded  to  the  traveller,  are  romantic  and  varied 
in  a  high  degree ;  presenting  the  woody  mountains  in 
different  directions,  with  the  course  of  the  Schuylkill 
winding  through  them.  There  is  a  spring  which  passes 
the  road,  remarkable  only  as  the  boundary  between  two 
contiguous  counties. 

The  Little  Schuylkill  Riyer,  a  branch  of  the  prin- 
cipal stream,  runs  through  a  valley  of  the  same  general 
description ;  and  here  lies  the  road  to  Mount  Carbon. 
The  country  will  hardly  admit  of  any  cultivation ;  and 
few  inhabitants  are  seen. 

Iron  Works.  The  iron  works  of  Mr.  Old  are  situated 
at  the  termination  of  this  valley,  on  a  small  meadow,  shut 
in  by  mountains :  a  wild  and  secluded  scene.  The  pro- 
prietor has  a  handsome  house  ;  and  the  shops  and  dwell- 
ings of  the  vrorkmen  are  numerous.  The  scenery  be- 
yond retains  its  interesting  character. 

The  Tunnel.  This  is  a  place  where  a  hill  has  been 
bored  through  375  yards  for  a  canal,  about  3  miles  from 
Orwigsburgh. 

Orwigsburgh,  ■'^'^ 

About  8  miles  from  the  Gap.  This  village  is  3  miles 
distant  from  the  river,  and  eivjoys  an  agreeable  situation, 
although  the  soil  is  not  very  good.  It  is  rather  lan;er 
than  Hamburgh,  and  contains  a  court  house,  jail,  &c. 
The  Grerman  language  here  prevails,  and  is  used  in  the 
church  as  well  as  in  the  ordinary  concerns  of  life.   | 

MOUNT  CARBON, 

8  Miles ;  is  in  sight  of  several  coal  mines.  This  is 
sometimes  called  Pottsville,  but  there  is  a  place  on  the 
Schuylkill  known  by  the  same  name.    The  village  is  very 


THAVELLER. 


15 


9w  gorge, 
»cky  chan- 
its  banks, 
of  several 
%  the  face 
where  the 
to  require 
sws  which 
And  varied 
iintalns  in 
Schuylkill 
ch  passes 
tween  two 

the  prin- 
e  general 
t  Carbon. 
ioQ ;   and 

re  situated 
idow,  shut 
The  pro- 
ind  dwell- 
;enery  be- 

has  been 
liles  from 


IS  3  miles 
situation, 
ler  lara;er 
jail,  &c. 
sed  in  the 
fe.   % 


This  is 
:c  on  the 
;eis  very 


small,  and  there  is  another  at  Pott's  Forges  of  about  the 
same  size. 

The  coal  country  in  this  region  begins  in  Luzerne,  on 
the  upper  part  of  the  Lackawana  River,  following  its  course 
to  the  Susquebannah,  and  along  that  stream,  prUicipally  on 
the  eastern  bank,  to  18  miles  beyond  Wilkesbarre.  It 
runs  south  to  the  Lehigh  River,  and  thence  south-west, 
through  Schuylkill  county. 

It  is  estimated  to  extend  about  100  miles  ;  and  about 
the  middle  of  the  range  is  8  or  9  miles  wide,  growing 
narrower  towards  each  end.  At  Mount  Carbon  the  coal 
occurs  in  beds  4  or  5  feet  in  thickness,  cenerally  running 
east  and  west,  and  dipping  to  the  south  at  46®,  with  a 
slate  rock  immediately  over  it,  and  strata  of  sandstone 
and  earth  above.  The  slate,  as  usual,  in  the  vicinity  of 
coal,  presents  the  impressions  of  organized  substances 
at  some  ancient  period  imbedded  in  its  substance:  such  as 
the  leaves  of  laurel,  fern,  &c. 

In  consequence  of  the  inclination  of  the  coal  veins  into 
the  earth,  the  miners  have,  in  some  places,  sunk  shafts  to 
the  depth  of  150  feet,  with  lateral  excavations,  east  and 
west,  of  various  lengths  to  300.  It  will  be  remarked  that 
nature  herself  has  furnished  a  natural  roof  and  floor  for 
the  mines,  by  placing  two  parallel  strata  of  slate  rock 
above  and  below,  the  former  of  which  requires  only  the 
assistance  of  logs  to  secure  it  from  falling  in.  Two  small 
carriages  called  Trams,  are  used  in  a  sloping  shaft  to 
bring  the  coal  out,  being  made  to  descend  by  turns ;  but 
in  the  horizontal  one,  which  has  been  carried  in  about 
500  feet,  they  employ  wheel  barrows.  Some  of  the  veins 
run  perpendicularly. 

There  were  ten  or  eleven  coal  mines  worked  at  Mount 
Carbon  in  1825 ;  which  employed  from  5  to  30  work- 
men each.  Some  of  them  are  worked  night  and  day. 
The  coal  is  dug  out  with  wedges,  drills  and  sledges,  &c.  and 
as  it  costs  only  about  $50  to  open  a  mine,  and  nothing  else 
but  labour  in  digging  and  raising  it,  the  advantages  are 
not  confined  to  capitalists.  Wagoners  are  ready  to  trans* 
port  the  coal  to  the  landings,  and  put  it  into  boats. 

This  place  has  heretofore  been  the  limit  of  this  "Route 
to  the  Coal  Mines,*'' lately  become  so  fashionable ;  but  it 
is  to  be  presumed  that  the  tour  will  be  extended  as  fac  as 
Wilkesbarre,  returning  by  Mauch  Chunk. 


iU 


THE  NORTHERN 
EASTON. 


This  is  a  village  of  some  size,  and  a  central  point  from 
ivhich  numerous  roads  diverge,  and  stage  coaches  run  in 
various  directions. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  distances  from  Easton  on  the 
different  stoge  routes.  New- York,  70  miles  ;  Scholey's 
Mountain,  23 ;  Morristown,  41 ;  New- Brunswick,  45  ; 
Bethlehem*  12 ;  Mauch  Chunk,  34 ;  Nazar'^th,  7 ;  Dela- 
ware Wind  Gap,  12  ;  Water  Gap,  20 ;  Stioudsburgh,  27; 
Wilkesbarre,  52 ;  Belvidere,  12 ;  Reading,  52 ;  New- 
town, (Sussex  county,)  40. 

From  Newtown  a  coach  runs  three  times  b^  week,  to 
Montrose,  Owego,  Ithaca,  and  Qeneva,  and  communicates 
with  the  Erie  canal,  and  with  the  direct  route  to  Buffalo. 

i 

The  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal, 

Was  begun  July  13th,  1825.  It  is  to  lead  from  the 
dkw  Mill  Rift  along  the  Delaware  and  a  branch  to  the 
Wall  Kill«  and  down  that  stream  to  Kingston. 

The  road  to  Mauch  Chunk  leads  through  BETHLE- 
HEM, 12  miles.  This  is  a  neatly  built  place  in  a  roman- 
tic and  delightful  situation,  along  the  course  of  a  swift  run- 
ning brook.  It  is  inhabited  by  Germans,  and  little  Eng- 
lish will  be  beard  spoken  in  the  place.  There  is  an  old 
church  and  an  academy  for  the  education  of  girls,  under 
the  management  of  the  Moravians,  to  which  sect  the  in- 
habitants belong.  A  little  beyond  Bethlehem  the  country 
begins  to  assume  a  more  mountainous  appearance ;  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  Lehigh  they  rise  to  a  height  of 
seven  or  eight  hundred  feet,  or  even  more.  The  wild 
scenery  which  the  road  passes  is  of  a  very  impressive 
character. 

The  village  on  the  Lehigh  has  rapidly  grown  from  a  few 
solitary  dwellings  to  a  place  of  much  business,  containing 
a  large  store  belonging  to  the  Lehigh  coal  company,  the 
houses  of  the  two  Superintendents,  and  dwellings  for 
800  people.  This  is  the  place  to  which  the  coal  is  brought 
from  the  mines,  9  miles,  loaded  into  arks  or  square  boxes 
which  float  upon  the  river,  each  with  250  bushels  of  coal. 
The  road  to  the  mine  is  eicellent,  winding  among  the 
mountains,  with  a  regular  ascent  of  lOO  feet  to  every 


TKAVELLER. 


17 


point  from 
les  run  in 

ton  on  the 
Scholey'a 
swick,  45 ; 
,  7 ;  Dela- 
iburgh,  27; 
»2 ;    New- 

^  week,  to 
imunicates 
to  Buffalo. 


id  from  the 
ich  to  the 

BETHLE- 

n  a  roman- 
i  swift  run- 
little  Eng- 

is  an  old 
rirls,  under 
ect  the  in- 
he  country 
ance;  and 
SI  height  of 

The  wild 
impressive 

from  a  few 
,  containing 
mpany,  the 
rellings  for 

is  brought 
|uare  boxes 
els  of  coal. 

among  the 
et  to  everv 


jnile,  except  one  where  it  is  nearly  level.  It  is  intended 
to  make  a  rail  road  here  next  year.  Two  miles  from  the 
river  a  tunnel  has  been  dug  nearly  through  the  mountain  on 
the  right  hand,  with  the  intention  of  opening  a  new  mine 
which  had  been  discovered  on  the  other  side ;  but  they 
have  not  yet  reached  it.  The  excavation  is  thro  '2^i  ^ 
breccia  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  quartz. 

A  brook  runs  by  the  road  side  for  two  miles,  with  a 
rapid  descent  and  a  succession  of  little  water  falls,  adding 
much  to  the  pleasure  of  the  ride. 

MAUCH  CHUNK, 

Is  a  very  interesting  place  for  the  stranger,  both  on  ac- 
count of  the  scenery  and  the  remarkable  nature  of  the  coal 
mine.  The  mine,  or  quarry  as  it  ought,  perhaps,  proper- 
ly to  be  called,  opens  upon  the  road  by  three  passs^es  cut 
8  or  10  feet  deep  in  the  earth.  These  conduct  into  an  area 
150  yards  long  and  90  wide,  and  from  S  to  35  feet  in  depth, 
formed  with  great  regularity,  by  the  removal  of  about 
30,000  tons  of  coal,  which  have  been  dug  out  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  keep  the  surface  on  an  inclined  plane, 
where  the  carts  drive  in,  load,  and  then  pass  out  at  the 
other  passage.  The  coal  is  very  hard,  pure  and  black, 
with  a  beautiful  conchoidal  fracture,  and  perfectly  clean 
in  handling.  The  middle,  an  area  50  yards  across,  has 
been  dug  down  about  20  feet  deeper,  and  to  it  there  is 
another  entrance  from  the  road. 

The  surface  of  the  ground  was  covered  with  a  coat  of 
sand  2  feet  thick,  interspersed  with  sand  stone  ;  under 
that  was  8  feet  of  black  pulverized  coal  j  and  then  came 
the  coal  itself.  Near  the  road  is  a  mass  of  slaty  coal  in 
undulated  strata  which  is  of  inferior  quality. 

Near  the  south  or  further  side  of  the  mine,  some  beauti- 
ful impressions  of  fern  leaves  have  been  found  in  the  rocks. 

The  Hotel  is  a  large  and  commodious  house,  and  the  re- 
sort of  much  company  during  the  pleasant  season. 

The  Lehigh  coal  has  been  introduced  into  Philadelphia 
for  fuel  within  the  last  four  or  five  years,  and  into  New- 
York  within  two.  Before,  it  was  commonly  considered  of 
no  value  ;  but  it  has  been  used  occasionally  by  individuals 
near  the  mines  for  more  than  30  vpars. 

r     " 


18 


THE  NORTHERN 


ROUTE  FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW-YORK. 


The  steam  boats  go  from  Market  and  Arch  street 
wharves. 

Leaving  Philadelphia,  in  the  steam  boat  for  New- York, 
the  ship  bouse,  in  the  navy  yard,  is  seen  over  the  little 
island  in  the  river.  Near  the  upper  part  of  the  city  are 
the  ship  yards ;  and  beyond,  three  glass  houses  near  the 
water,  with  white  walls  and  black  roofs.  A  steeple  and  a 
shot  tower  are  the  principal  objects  rising  above  the  great 
mass  of  houses  in  the  city. 

The  banks  of  the  Delaware  are  low,  and  present  an 
uniformity  quite  unfriendly  to  the  picturesque.  The 
towns  are,  however,  interesting  in  the  history  of  the 
revolution,  as  will  be  seen  a  little  beyond* 

BURLINGTON, 

In  New-Jersey,  18  miles  from  Philadelphia,  presents 
a  handsome  appearance ;  with  a  row  of  fine  residences 
facing  the  river,  in  front  of  which  is  a  street  with  a  beau* 
tiful  sloping  bank. 


BRISTOL, 

A  little  above,  and  on  the  opposite  side,  has  also  a 
number  of  gentlemen's  seats ;  and  handsome  flower  gar- 
dens on  the  bank,  one  of  them  ornamented  with  a  few 
vases,  &c. 


BORDENTOWN, 

28  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  7  below  Trenton,  stands 
on  a  steep  sand  bank,  through  which  a  road  is  cut  to  the 
water.  Just  north  of  the  village  is  the  house  of  Joseph 
Bonaparte,  the  Count  dc  SurvilUers,  once  king  oC  Spain^ 


TRAVELLER. 


19 


h  street 

w-York, 
he  little 
city  are 
near  the 
;>le  and  a 
the  great 

isent  an 
3.  The 
r  of  the 


presents 

sidences 

a  beau* 


3  also  a 
ver  gar- 
th a  few 


stands 
it  to  the 
'  Joseph 
f  Spaiti'. 


It  is  a  long  tvhite  building  with  two  low  square  towers  at 
the  ends,  and  a  shot  tower  near  it  by  the  river. 

♦ 

TRENTON, 

33  miles  from  Philadelphia.  Here  the  Union  Line 
steam  boats  stop,  except  when  the  water  is  low  ;  when 
they  sometimes  land  opposite  Bordentown.  Trenton  is  a 
town  of  considerable  size,  with  a  great  number  of  stores, 
and  the  aspect  of  business. 

Lamberton  is  a  village  where  the  coach  offices  are,  and 
apparently  forms  a  part  of  Trenton. 

The  State  Prison  is  situated  a  little  south  of  tho 
town. 

Delaware  and  Rariton  Canal.  The  route  for  a 
canal  between  these  two  rivers,  was  determined  in  1825. 
It  is  to  lead  from  the  Delaware  at  Lamberton  through 
Trenton ;  and  passing  the  Lawrence  meadows,  and  along 
the  valley  of  Stoney  Brook  and  Millstone  Brook,  follow  the 
course  of  the  Rariton  for  some  distance  before  it  joins  it. 
It  is  to  be  60  feet  wide,  with  8  feet  of  water,  correspond- 
ing with  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal.  The  feeder, 
40  feet  wide  with  5  feet  of  water,  is  to  begin  on  the  Dela- 
ware, nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Lehigh ;  and  with 
the  main  trunk,  will  measure  84  miles.  The  summit 
level  is  48  feet. 

The  portion  of  New  Jersey  lying  between  Philadelphia 
and  New- York,  was  of  great  importance  in  the  revolu- 
tionary war.  A  great  part  was,  for  a  time,  occupied  by  the 
British,  and  it  was  the  scene  of  bloodshed. 
^  In  Dec.  1776,  the  English  had  '4000  men  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Delaware,  in  Trenton,  Bordentown,  Black- 
horse,  and  Burlington,  with  strong  detachments  at  Prince- 
ton and  New  Brunswick,  with  their  magazines. 

On  Christmas  night,  three  divisions  of  the  American 
troops  attempted  to  cross  the  Delaware :  one  at  Bristol 
for  Burlington ;  one  a  mile  below  Trenton ;  and  one  nine 
miles  above,  under  Washington  and  Greene.  This  was 
the  largest,  but  principally  militia ;  it  approached  Tren- 
ton by  two  roads,  attacking  it  at  8,  A.  M.  very  unexpect- 
edly, and  putting  the  English  and  German  troops  (about 
1500)  to  the  rout.    600  escaped^-  the  rest  sun'endered, 


90 


THE  NORTHERN 


being  the  regiments  of  Ralle,  Anspach,  and  Knyphausen. 
Ralle  was  killed  in  resisting.  The  other  divisions  could 
not  cross  on  account  of  the  ice,  and  Washington  returned 
with  his  captives  and  six  pieces  of  artillery.  This  suc- 
cessful stroke  greatly  encouraged  the  country,  as  it  was 
the  first  victory  over  those  German  mercenaries. 

Washington,  soon  after,  recrossed  the  river,  and  posted 
his  army  at  Trenton.  On  the  2d  of  Jan.  1777,  Lord 
Cornwallis  reached  Trenton;  and  Washington  fortified 
himself  on  the  Assumpsick.  But  he  was  too  weak  to 
hazard  an  enge^ement ;  and  the  Delaware  being  filled  with 
ice,  he  resolved,  if  possible,  to  change  the  nature  of  tho 
war,  and  place  the  enemy  on  the  defensive,  by  threatening 
his  magazines  and  his  line  of  communication. 

Being  hardly  pressed,  Washington  had  formed  the  plan 
of  a  retreat,  expecting  to  be  unable  to  remove  any 
thing  but  the  soldiers  and  what  they  could  carry,  as  the 
soil  was  so  unfavourable,  and  the  weather  so  mild  and 
wet,  that  wagons  could  not  pass.  Cornwallis  had  sent 
to  Princeton  for  a  regiment  to  join  him,  that  he  might 
attack  the  Americans  immediately.  In  the  night,  how* 
ever,  Gen.  Greene  reported  that  the  weather  had  suddenly 
become  cold ;  and  at  midnight,  Washington  wa^  able  to 
begin  his  march,  with  all  his  bag{;age  and  artillery.  This 
was  done,  and  all  the  fires  left  burning.  The  British  had 
no  intimation  of  their  departure  until  they  heard  the  guns 
firing  at  Princeton. 

PRINCETON,  10  miles. 

This  village  is  situated  on  an  elevated  ridge  of  land, 
which,  on  several  sides,  rises  with  a  long  and  easy  slope, 
and  commands  a  prospect  of  considerable  extent. 

In  approaching  it  from  the  west,  the  Theological  Aca* 
demy,  which  is  of  stone  and  4  stories  high,  is  seen  on  the 
right ;  and  the  old  one  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  opposite 
the  stage  house.  The  college  yard  is  large  and  shaded 
with  trees  ;  and  the  burying  ground  contains  the  ashes  of 
the  presidents  of  the  institution  :  Aaron  Burr,  Jonathan 
Edwards,  Samuel  Davis,  Samuel  Finley,  John  Wither- 
spoon,  and  Samuel  S.  Smith. 

During  the  battle  of  Princeton,  it  is  related  that  a. 


TRAVELLER. 


21 


>hau8en. 
IS  could 
returned 
his  8UC- 
s  it  was 

d  posted 
7,  Lord 
fortified 
weak  to 
lied  with 
e  of  tho 
eatening 

the  plan 
)ve  any 
f,  as  the 
tild  and 
liad  sent 
le  might 
It,  how« 
uddenly 
able  to 
.  This 
itish  had 
;he  guns 


»f  landy 
slope, 

!al  Aca- 
1  on  the 
)pposite 
shaded 
ishes  of 
>nathan 
IVither- 

that  a 


uanon  shot  entered  the  chapel,  and  tore  away  the  head 
from  a  portrait  of  George  IIL 

NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

Here  the  steam  boats  start  for  New- York.  The  stage 
coaches  drive  through  a  part  of  the  village  to  the  steam 
boat  wharf.  The  forenoon  line  stops  at  the  hotel  for  the 
night. 

The  view  is  pretty  from  the  hill  above ;  whence  the 
public  buildings  appear  to  good  advantage,  particularly  the 
Theological  Seminary,  which  is  under  the  synod  of  the 
Putch  Reformed  Church.  The  banks  below  are  pictur- 
esque, but  afterwards  are  low  and  little  varied. 

In  the  spring  of  1777,  Washington  advanced  from  near 
Morristown  to  Middle  Brook,  where  he  entrenched  him- 
self, on  the  heights,  in  full  view  of  New  Brunswick.  The 
British  tried  various  stratagems  to  decoy  him  from  this 
commanding  position,  and  once  succeeded ;  but  discover- 
ing their  intentions  to  surround  him,  he  quickly  regained 
it,  and  they  were  soon  after  obliged  to  give  up  all  hopes 
of  penetrating  in  this  direction,  and  devoted  their  atten- 
tion to  co-operating  with  Gen.  Burgoyne,  who  was  coming 
down  towards  Albany. 

Perth  Ambot,  13  miles.  Here  is  usually  some  ship- 
ping ;  but  the  place  has  little  to  attract  observation. 

Elizabethtown  Point,  15  miles  from  New-York. 
The  village  is  partly  seen  about  2  miles  inland. 

Staten  Island  is  large  and  elevated,  with  but  few  in- 
habitants, and  a  small  cluster  of  houses. 

On  entering  New-York  Bay,  Fort  Lafayette  is  seen  in 
the  Narrows,  between  Staten  and  Long  Island,  which  is 
the  passage  to  the  sea.  The  city  presents  a  close  mass  of 
houses,  with  Castle  Williams  on  Governor's  Island,  seen 
near  it  on  the  right ;  and  Ellis's  and  Bedlow's  Islands  on 
the  left,  with  their  fortifications.  On  approaching,  the 
prominent  objects  are  the  tall  pyramidal  steeple  of  Tri- 
nity church,  the  more  ornamented  one  of  St.  Paul's,  and 
the  distant  top  of  the  Catholic  cathedral,  &c.  &c.  The 
clusters  of  trees  observed  on  the  shore  in  front  of  the  city, 
are  on  the  Battery :  a  place  once  fortified,  but  now  the 
principal  public  square  ;  and  Castle  Clinton,  just  west  of 
it,  has  been  converted  into  a  place  of  amusement. 

02 


ant 


THE  NORTHERN 


THE  CITY  OF  NEW- YORK. 


Hotels,  and  Boarding  Houses.  Mansion  House^ 
(Bunker,)  39  Broadway.  City  Hotel.  National  Hotel. 
Franklin  House.  Washington  Hall,  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Reid-street.  Park  Place  House.  Mrs.  Southard, 
Mrs.  Mann,  Mrs.  Keese,  &c.  There  are  several  other 
genteel  boarding  houses  in  the  pleasantest  part  of  Broad- 
way, near  the  Bowling  Green  and  Battery. 

The  stranger  is  advised  to  purchase  a  pocket  map  of 
the  city,  if  he  is  to  remain  here  a  few  days ;  as  without  it 
he  will  often  find  himself  at  a  loss,  and  with  it  can  go  to 
any  part  with  confidence* 

The  Battery  is  a  pleasant  walk  in  warm  weather ;  and 
Castle  Garden  has  a  fine  promenade.  On  summer  evenings 
the  place  is  supplied  with  music,  and  often  fire  works. 

Broadway,  the  most  fashionable  promenade  in  the  city, 
is  most  crowded  with  passengers  between  1  and  3  o'clock ; 
or  in  hot  weather,  after  dinner.  Going  up  it  from  the 
battery,  you  pass  the  Bowling  Greerif  then  the  Mansion 
house,  Grace  church,  and  Trinity  church. 

The  property  of  this  church  is  very  great,  lying  in  large 
tracts  of  land  now  covered  by  the  city  streets.  (Opposite, 
opens  WaU-streetf  which  contains  most  of  the  bankSf  with 
the  Branch  of  the  U.  S.  Bank,  together  with  numerous 
Insurance  and  Brokers'  Offices.  At  the  foot  of  it  is  the 
Tontine  Coffee  House,  for  many  years  the  exchange  of  the 
city  i  a  little  above  which,  is  the  new  Exchange^  a  building 
of  white  marble,  begun  in  1825.  The  post  office  is  in 
Garden-street.) 

Returning  to  Broadway,  beyond  Trinity  church  is  the 
CUy  Hotel ;  opposite,  the  jv^ational  Hotel ;  and  a  little  fur- 
ther. Cedar  and  CourtlandstreotSf  leading  west  to  the  docks 
on  Hudson  River,  whence  the  »^lhany  steam  boats  std^rt.  At 
the  latter  street  is  also  the  Jersey  city  ferry — Is. 

The  Franklin  House,  corner  of  Dey-st.  and  Broad- 
way. Fulton-street  leads  to  Fulton  Mnrketf  on  Vie  east 
river.  (There  is  the  lower  Brooklt,.^.  /'•^fry^  (4  cents  ;)  at 
the  next  dock  below,  are  the  JSTewport  and  Providence 
steam  boats;  and  just  above,  the  steam  boats  for  Flushing^ 
jSTorwalk,  Stamford,  Bridgeport,  Stratford^  Saybrook,  Hart- 


TRAVELLEU. 


23 


House^ 
■I  Hotel, 
rojidway 
)u  chard, 
oil  other 

Broad- 

;  map  of 
ithout  it 
mgo  to 

sr;  and 
ivenings 
>rks. 
he  city, 
'clock ; 
Jm  the 
lansion 


in  large 
pposite, 
kSf  with 
merous 
is  the 
e  of  the 
milding 
e  is  ia 

is  the 
tie  fur- 
3  docks 
art.  At 

Broad- 
he  east 
ts;)  at 
uidence 


fordf  «\Vi/;  London,  and  Jfonoich.  The  steam  boats  for 
•Wio  Haven  lie  at  Fly-market  dock,  two  or  three  streets 
below.  For  the  "  Route  from  New- York  to  New-Eng- 
land," cice  Index.) 

St.  Paul's  Church  in  Broadway  is  next  above  Fulton- 
street.  Just  beyond,  is  Pnff*s  exhibition  of  Pictures,  then 
the  Park,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which,  is  the  Theatre, 
and  the  Bible  Society's  Depository  in  the  rear.  Park 
Place  on  the  left,  leads  to  Columbia  College ;  and  the 
City  Hall  is  in  the  Park,  with  the  Debtors^  Prison  on  the 
cast,  and  Bridewell  on  the  west.  Murray-street  leads  on 
the  left  to  Hoboken  ferry — Is. 

The  New- York  Institution  is  behind  the  City  Hall, 
with  Scudder's  fine  J^uaeum,  the  OaUery  of  Fine  Jhrts, 
Historicd  Society,  Mr,  TrumbulTs  and  Mr,  Dunlap's 
Fainting  Rooms,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum.  The 
Saving's  Bank  directly  opposite.  Next  these  is  the 
Panorama  Rotunda,  and  opposite  the  Manhattan  Water 
Works.  Chatham-street  beyond,  leads  to  Barriere's 
Theatre. 

Next  beyond,  in  Broadway,  is  Washington  HaU  ;  and 
two  or  three  streets  above,  the  J^evO'-York  Hospital. 

This  fine,  broad  street,  continues  about  a  mile  further 
on,  perfectly  straight,  and  nearly  all  built  with  brick 
houses ;  but  contains  no  public  buildings,  except  the  Cir- 
cus, a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  the  right-hand,  a  new  Gothic 
church,  and  the  Sailors''  Snug  Harbour,  an  hospital. 

There  is  also  in  the  city  an  Orphan  Asylum. 

A  fine  part  of  the  city  lies  north-west  from  the  hospital, 
about  Hudson  Square.  The  streets  are  there  more  regu- 
lar, and  the  square  itself  is  very  fine,  with  St.  John's 
church  in  front,  which  has  the  tallest  spire  in  New- York. 

Among  the  other  public  buildings,  which  it  is  not  easy 
to  point  out  more  particularly,  are  the  Roman  Catholic 
cathedral,  and  the  numerous  places  of  public  worship  in 
all  parts  of  the  city.  These  amounted,  in  1824,  to  84  in 
all,  and  are  probably  now  very  nearly  100.  The  State- 
Prison,  Penitentianj,  Fever  Hospital,  House  of  Refuge  for 
Juvenile  Delinquents,  Lunatic  Asylum  :  these  are  all  at  a 
distance  from  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  Common  School 
Society  have  ten  school  houses,  where  4  or  5000  chil- 
dren are  instructed  on  the  Lancasterian  svstem  :  either 


u 


THE  NORTHERN 


{[ratuitously,  or  at  a  trifling  expense  of  from  \s,  to  95.  per 
quarter.  The  High  School  received  scholars  in  higher 
branches.  The  Sunday  Schools  deserve  particular  notice 
for  their  usefulness;  also  the  Mechanic  Society's 
School. 

The  Athenaum  is  a  literary  institution  lately  formed. 
The  CUy  Library  is  large,  and  there  are  others  belonging 
to  the  Societies  of  Merchants*  Clerks,  Apprentices,  &c. 
There  are  Circulating  Libraries  at  several  of  the  book 
stores  in  Broadway. 

The  Fire  Engines  are  remarkable  for  their  beauty 
and  excellence,  as  the  Fire  Department  is  for  its  efficiency 
and  usefulness.  There  are  42  engines,  besides  two  Hook 
and  Ladder  companies. 

The  City  Hall  contains  the  common  council  chamber, 
with  portraits  of  Washington,  Hamilton,  Jefferson,  and 
Thompson  ;  the  court  rooms,  police  office,  &c.  &c.  The 
top  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city ;  and  access  may 
be  had  on  applying  to  the  keeper. 

The  Liverpool  Packets  are  fine  vessels,  and  some  of 
them  among  the  most  elegantly  furnished  ships  in  the 
world.  They  lie  at  different  docks  in  the  east  river ;  and 
sail  on  the  1st,  8th,  16th,  and  24th  of  every  month,  and 
returning,  leaiM^Liverpool  on  the  same  days.  The  letter 
bags  are  kept  at  the  bar  of  the  Tontine  Coffee  House. — 
6d.  for  every  letter. 

ExcoRsioNS.  Numerous  pleasant  excursions  may  be 
made  from  New- York  in  various  directions.  Manhattan 
Island  affords  several  agreeable  rides ;  and  also  Long  Island 
and  the  neighbouring  parts  of  New-Jersey. 

Bath,  Rockawat,  and  Gravesend,  on  Long  Island, 

and  Long  Branch,  in  New- Jersey, 

Fine  situations  on  the  seacoast,  are  among  the  most 
attractive  for  bathing,  &c. 

Orange  Springs  near  AVwarX;,  and  Scholet's  Mountain. 

These  are  very  fashionable  resorts  during  the  warm  sea« 
sons,  particularly  for  visiters  from  New- York.  The  sit« 
uations  are  very  pleasant,  in  variegated  tracts  of  country ; 
and  afford  a  most  agreeable  retreat,  with  fine  air  and 
good  accommodations. 


A 

Eas 


I 


■;sS 


H 


TRAVELLER. 


SNI 


to  95.  per 
in  highei* 
ar  notice 
Society's 

J  formed, 
belonging 
tices,  &c. 
the  book 

r  beauty 
efficiency 
wo  Hook 

chamber, 
'son,  and 
iic.  The 
cess  may 

some  of 
>s  in  the 
ver;  and 
nth,  and 
'he  letter 
iouse. — 

(  may  be 
anhattan 
ig  Island 

Island, 


lie  most 


UNTAUf. 

arm  sea« 
The  sit- 
ountry ; 
air  and 


TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 

A  stage  coach  goes  in  a  day  from  Powles  Hook  to 
Easton.    (See  Eastouy  page  16.) 

There  is  a  Direct  Road  to  Buffalo,  through  Ithaca. 

The  following  list  of  books  and  maps  is  given  for  those 
ivho  may  wish  for  more  details  concerning  the  northern 
states  than  we  are  able  to  furnish  in  the  present  summary 
view. 

BOOKS. 

History  of  the  New- York  canals. 

Smith's  history  of  New- York. 

Picture  of  New- York  and  Stranger's  guide. 

Dr.  Dwight's  Trayels  in  the  New  England  states  and 
New-York. 

Professor  Silliman's  Short  Tour  to  Montreal  and  Que* 
bee,  in  18mo. 

Van  Rensselaer's  Geological  Survey  of  the  Canal 
Route. 

Hibernicus's  Letters  on  the  New- York  Canal. 

Fashionable  Tour,  or  a  Trip  to  the  Springs,  Niagara  and 
Quebec. 

The  Northern  Tour,  being  a  Guide  to  Saratoga,  Lake 
Geoi^e,  Niagara,  Canada,  Boston,  &c. 

Spaflbrd's  Gazetteer  of  the  State  of  New- York. 

Spafford's  Pocket  Guide  to  the  Canal  Route. 

Gazetteers  of  New  Hampshire,  Massachusetts  and 
Vermont. 

Yates  and  Moulton's  History  of  New- York. 

Description  Topographique  de  la  Province  du  Bas  Ca- 
nada, avec  des  remarques  sur  la  Haute  Canada,  et  sur  les 
relations  des  deux  provinces  d'Am^rique.  Par  Joseph 
Bouchette. 

Eddy's  Map  of  the  State  of  New- York. 
Vance's  Map  of  the  Western  part  of  the  sam^e. 
Goodrich's  Map  pf  the  Hudson  River. 
Bouchette's  maps  of  Canada. 


26  THE  NORTHERN 

ROUTE  FROM  NEW- YORK  TO  ALBANY. 

The  elegant  steam  barges  Lady  Clinton  and  Van  Ren> 
selaer  arc  most  convenient,  safe  and  agreeable,  and  are 
recommended. 

The  following  steam  boats  ply  between  New- York  and 
Albany. 

Sarato^,  Chancellor  Livingston,  James  Kent,  Wm. 
Penn,  Olive  Branch,  Bristol,  Henry  Bckford,  Constitu- 
tion, Constellation,  and  Chief  Justice  Marshall. 

There  are  also  others  to  intermediate  places.  Most  of 
the  Troy  and  Albany  boats,  however,  stop  or  touch  at 
those  places.  These  boats  lie  about  the  docks  from 
Courtlandt  to  Cedar-street. 

There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  charges  of  the  boats^ 
but  the  accommodations  travellers  will  find  on  board  of 
them  are  generally  good,  except  when  they  are  too  much 
crowded  with  passengers.  Strangers  will  generally  prefer 
the  large  ones,  because  they  are  furnished  with  an  upper 
deck,  called  the  promenade,  which  is  sheltered  from  the 
sun  by  an  awning,  and  affords  a  much  more  uninterrupted 
prospect,  as  well  as  better  air.  As  two  or  three  will  go 
every  day,  and  the  travo.llcr  can  choose  better  for  himself, 
it  is  unnecessary  to  maKe  any  further  suggestions,  except 
that  ladies  particularly  will  prefer  the  barges,  unless  they 
are  too  much  crowded. 

The  Henry  Eckford  runs  to  Albany  with  two  boats  for 
freight.     Passage  $1. 

Cautions,  If  luggage  is  sent  by  a  porter,  ask  him  for 
his  number,  so  that  if  he  is  negligent  or  dishonest,  he  may 
be  reported  at  the  police  office.  It  is  best  to  go  to  the 
steam  boat  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  before  the  time  of  de- 
parture, to  avoid  the  crowd  which  always  collects  at  the 
dock.  A  traveller  is  too  often  pressed  upon  by  imperti- 
nent fellows,  who  recommend  their  own  vessels,  and  urge 
him  to  take  passage  in  them.  Such  things  ought  never 
to  be  permitted  by  the  proprietors,  although  they  are  ri- 
vals ;  neither  ought  they  to  allow  the  throngs  of  porters, 
cartmen,  &c.  who  rush  in  upon  deck  as  soon  as  the  boats 
arrive,  both  here  and  at  Albany,  to  the  annoyance  of  the 
passengers,  and  the  exposure  of  their  property.  All  tra- 
vellers should  remonstrate  against  so  unreasonable  a  prac- 
tice ;  and  if  any  of  the  proprietors  should  see  this  state- 


ANY. 


Van  Ren> 
3,  and  are 

r- York  and 

[ent,  Wm. 
,  Constitu- 
11. 

Most  of 
r  touch  at 
locks  from 

the  boatsy 
n  board  of 
>  too  much 
irally  prefer 
b  an  upper 
1  from  the 
interrupted 
ree  will  go 
for  himself, 
ons,  except 
mless  they 

o  boats  for 

Bisk  him  for 
est,  he  may 
» go  to  the 
time  of  de- 
lects at  the 
by  imperti- 
Is,  and  urge 
lught  never 
they  are  ri- 
of  porters, 
IS  the  boats 
ance  of  the 
jT.  All  tra- 
able  a  prac- 
this  state^ 


i 
I 


'V 


I-  •■■■     »^ 


■,M 


J 


■4.;'9 


men 
con' 
whi* 
geri 


Oi 

the  I 
hind 
jectii 
the  ] 
Sand 
from 
and  ( 
mouti 
small 
villag 
Theh 
rapid! 
Wash 
tery,  \ 

At 
and  a 
spot  1 
with( 
ed  to 
>vitbin 
for  CG 
lost 

Th 
trap  r( 
on  the 
lar,  an 
places 
below 
lal  pn 
height 
Mar 
to  slid 
up  obi 
appear 


01 


W.H,,!.,;    KfUlTM 


TRAVELLEK. 


V 


Sf 


meat  of  the  grievance,  it  it  to  be  hoped  that  they  Mrilt  be 
I'onvinced  of  its  justice,  and  the  necessity  of  reformation, 
whi^h  would  benefit  themselves  as  well  as  their  passen- 
ger* . 

PASSAGE  UP  HUDSON  RIVER. 

On  leaving  New- York,  the  traveller  finds  himself  in 
the  midst  of  a  fine  and  varied  scene.  The  battery  lies  be- 
hind him,  with  Governor's  Island  and  Castle  Williams  pro- 
jecting beyond ;  still  more  distant  opens  the  passage  called 
the  Narrows,  with  Staten  Island  on  the  right,  leading  to 
Sandy  Hook  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which  is  22  miles 
from  the  city.  On  the  west  side  of  the  bay  are  Bedlow 
and  Gibbet  Islands,  with  fortifications  ;  the  point  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Hudson  is  Powles  Hook,  on  which  stands  a 
small  town  in  New-Jersey  called  Jersey  City  ;  and  the 
village  of  Hoboken  is  seen  a  mile  or  more  up  the  river. 
The  hills  of  Weehawken  appear  beyond :  as  the  boat  moves 
rapidly  on,  it*  passes  the  crowded  line  of  buildings  in 
Washington-street,  the  State  Prison,  and  the  Jfcrth  Bat- 
tery. 

At  Weehawken,  under  a  lodge  of  rocks  facing  the  river, 
and  about  the  distance  of  6  miles  from  the  city,  is  the 
spot  where  General  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel 
with  Col.  Burr.  A  monument  of  white  marble  was  erect- 
ed to  his  memory  on  the  place ;  but  it  has  been  removed 
within  a  few  years.  This  is  the  common  duelling  ground 
for  combatants  from  the  city,  and  many  lives  have  been 
lost  on  this  fatal  spot. 

The  Palisadoes — a  remarkable  range  of  precipices  of 
trap  rock,  which  begin  near  this  place,  extend  up  the  river 
on  the  west  side  20  miles,  to  Tappan,  and  form  a  singu- 
lar, and  in  many  places  an  impassable  boundary.  In  some 
places  an  old  red  sand-stone  foundation  is  seen  appearing 
below  ;  but  the  great  mass  of  the  rocks  presents  the  mit- 
ral precipices  of  the  trap  formation,  and  rises  from  the 
height  of  15  or  20  feet  to  500  or  550. 

Many  little  paths  will  be  seen,  by  which  timber  is  made 
to  slide  down  to  the  water;  and  aome  where  carts  can  go 
up  obliquely.  The  trees  on  the  loftier  parts  of  the  shore 
appear  quite  dwarfish  at  such  an  elevation ;  and  the  rocks; 


W.H.lo-' 


r.ncria\ 


mm 


28 


THE  NORTHERN 


form  a  perfect 


from 


tn  many  places,  lorm  a  periecc  wan ;  irom  wLose  surface, 
large  masses  are  often  forced  off  by  the  frost  in  winter. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  river  opposite  the  Palisadoes, 
is  for  many  miles  handsomely  rounded  with  hills,  and  pre- 
sftnts  many  scenes  of  cultivation,  which  contrast  with  the 
rude  cliffs  on  the  left.  The  soil  is  inferior ;  and  the  wood 
land  encroaches  too  much  upon  the  fields  and  orchards. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum  is  seen  on  the  other  side,  about 
7  miles  from  the  city  ;  and  is  a  large  building  of  hewn 
stone,  occupying  a  commanding  situation. 

Harlaem  Heights  are  a  short  distance  further.  They 
form  an  elevated  ridge  across  Manhattan  Island,  on  which 
a  line  of  fortifications  was  thrown  up  during  the  Revolu- 
tion and  the  late  war,  quite  over  to  the  East  river. 

Fort  Lee,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is  situated  on 
the  brow  of  the  PdisadoeSf  more  than  300  feet  above  the 
river. 

Fort  Washington,  nearly  opposite. 

Fort  Washington  was  a  fortress  on  the  top  of  a  high 
rounded  hill,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  12  miles  from 
New- York.  In  October,  1776,  when  Gen.  Washington 
had  evacuated  the  city;  and,  subsequently  to  the  battle  of 
White  Plains^  (for  which  see  just  beyond,)  had  drawn  off 
his  army  to  Fort  Lee,  opposite  this  place,  Furt  Washing* 
ton  was  kept  garrisoned,  contrary  to  his  advice  ;  and  was 
attacked  in  four  divisions.  The  Hessians  and  Waldeck- 
ers  under  Gen.  Knyphausen,  went  up  the  hill  on  the  north 
side ;  Gen.  Matthews  on  the  east,  with  the  English  light 
infantry  and  guards,  intended  against  the  intrenchments, 
which  reached  almost  to  the  east  river.  Col.  Sterling 
made  a  feint  of  crossing  that  river  lower  down,  while 
Lord  Percy,  with  a  very  strong  corps  was  to  act  against 
the  western  flank. 

The  Hessians  suffered  much  from  the  riflemen  in  pass- 
ing a  swamp,  but  succeeded,  with  the  other  divisions  in 
driving  the  Americans  into  this  fort,  where  they  all  sur- 
rendered, to  the  number  of  2600  men,  including  militia. 
They  had  lost  very  few ;  but  the  British  lost  about  800. 

Fort  Lee  was  immediately  evacuated ;  but  the  British 
crossed  so  speedily  at  Dobb's  Ferry,  that  they  took  the 
artillery,  military  stores,  baggage,  and  tents  of  the  Amen' 
ran  armv^ 


TRAVELLER. 


29 


se  surface, 
I  winter. 
?alisadoes, 
Is,  and  pre- 
Lst  with  the 
I  the  wood 
>rchards. 
side,  about 
ng  of  hewn 

her.  They 
d,  on  which 
he  Revolu- 
vcr. 

situated  on 
jt  above  the 


p  of  a  high 
!  miles  from 
Washington 

the  battle  of 
id  drawn  off 
Lt  Washing- 
e ;  and  was 
id  Waldeck- 
>n  the  north 
:nglish  light 
renchments, 
3ol.  Sterling 
lown,  while 

act  against 


Battle  of  White  Plains.  In  October,  1776,  soon 
after  the  American  troops  evacuated  New- York ;  while 
Gen.  Washington  had  his  army  assembled  at  Kingsbridge, 
and  the  British  were  in  possession  of  the  island  up  as  far 
as  Harlaem,  Gen.  Howe  came  up  the  East  river,  with  an 
intention  of  surrounding  the  Americans.  He  left  his 
German  corps  at  New  Rochelle,  and  marched  for  the  high 
ground  at  White  Plains,  several  miles  east  of  the  Hudson, 
to  seize  the  interior  road  between  the  city  and  Connecticut. 

Washington  penetrated  his  design,  and  entrenched  him- 
self on  the  west  side  of  the  small  river  Bronx,  with  his 
right  on  Valentine's  hill,  and  his  left  on  White  Plains. 
He  had  garrisons  near  Harlaem,  at  Kingsbridge,  and  Fort 
Washington.  Skirmishes  were  kept  up  till  the  British  ap* 
proached  very  near ;  when  Washington  assembled  all  his 
troops  in  a  strong  camp  on  the  heights  near  the  plains, 
with  the  Bronx  in  front  and  on  the  right  flank,  and  a 
mountainous  region  in  the  rear.  The  right  was  more 
accessible ;  and  Gen.  M'Dougal  was  sent  to  entrench 
himself  on  a  mountain  about  a  mile  in  front. 

On  the  morning  of  Oct.  28th,  the  British  advanced  in 
two  columns :  the  right  by  Gen.  Clinton,  and  the  left  by 
Gen.  Heister.  The  former  took  post  on  the  Mamaroneck 
road  and  the  latter  on  the  Bronx, — the  armies  being  a 
mile  distant.  Col.  Ralle  with  a  Hessian  regiment  fell  upon 
Gen.  M*Dougal  in  flank,  while  Leslie  attacked  him  in  front 
with  a  brigade.  The  militia  soon  fled,  but  the  regular 
troops  resisted  until  overpowered.  The  British  deter- 
mined to  wait ;  and  on  the  following  morning,  finding  the 
American  position  much  strengthened,  and  a  height  in 
the  rear  occupied  by  the  left  wing,  sent  for  more  troops 
and  erected  batteries.  Washington,  therefore,  retired  to 
North  Castle ;  and  soon  after,  securing  the  bridge  over 
the  Croton,  and  Peekskill,  crossed  to  Hudson. 

Fort  Indbfendence,  on  the  east  side.    Opposite  the^ 
Palisadoes  are  of  still  greater  height. 

DoBB*s  Fbrrt,  10  miles.  This  is  the  best  point  to  stop, 
if  the  traveller  intends  to  visit  the  Grave  of  Andrew  as  the 
spot  is  only  21  miles  distant,  in  Tappan.  His  remains, 
however,  have  been  carried  to  England. 

Tarrttown,  3^  miles.  This  is  the  place  where  Mayor 
Andre  ivas  stopped,  returning  from  his  visit  to  Gen.Ar- 


30 


THE  NORTHERN 


nold,  and  on  his  way  to'  the  British  lines.  The  place  was 
then  neutral  ground,  as  the  Americans  and  EnglLsh  lay 
encamped  above  and  below.  The  tree  is  still  standing  un- 
der which  his  captors  searched  him,  and  the  bank  near  by 
had  concealed  them  from  his  view  as  he  approached 
them.  The  previous  life  of  this  interesting  young  officer, 
together  with  the  amiabieness  of  his  disposition,  the  re- 
finement of  his  education,  and  the  melancholy  and  igno- 
minious fate  to  which  he  was  brought,  by  one  of  the  un- 
happy concurrences  too  often  produced  by  war,  spread  a 
deep  and  universal  sentiment  of  sympathy  throughout  this 
country,  which  time  will  never  obliterate,  and  which  will 
be  only  perpetuated  by  our  history. 

For  a  detail  of  the  circumstances  connected  with  Major 
Andrews  capture,  the  reader  is  referred  to  a  brief  history 
of  them,  introduced  in  the  account  of  West  Point,  a  few 
pages  beyond. 

The  Entrance  of  the  Highlands,  is  a  short  distance 
beyond  this  place,  and  40  miles  from  New-York.  This 
is  a  region  no  less  remarkable  for  the  important  military 
events  of  which  it  has  been  the  theatre,  than  for  the  gran- 
deur and  nobleness  of  its  natural  scenery.  In  pointing 
out  the  various  positions  as  we  pass  along,  we  shall  give 
them  all  a  notice,  but  endeavour  to  enlarge  only  on  those 
whose  history  demands  a  more  particular  attention. 

Stony  Point.  The  little  rough  promontory  on  the 
left,  nearly  a  mile  below  the  entrance  of  the  Highlands, 
was  a  fortified  position  during  the  American  war.  The 
British  took  it  from  Gen.  Wayne  in  1778,  but  lost  it  again 
the  same  year. 

Verplanck's  Point,  on  the  opposite  side,  was  also  the 
site  of  a  fort ;  but  is  now  ornamented  with  a  handsome 
private  mansion,  and  the  rocks  near  the  landing  are 
tastefully  variegated  with  a  lawn,  an  arbour,  and  many 
fine  trees. 


FORT  MONTGOMERY  AND  FORT  CLINTON, 

-•■■■■^- .'--.  ^  •        ^     5  miles. 

These  forts  were  taken  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  on  the 
6th  of  October,  1777.  His  object  was  to  co-operate  with 
Gen.  Burgoyne,  at  that  time  closely  watched  by  Gen. 


»lace  was 
glLsh  lay 
iding  un- 
c  near  by 
proached 
ig  officer, 
1,  there- 
and  igno- 
r  the  un- 
spread  a 
;hout  this 
vhich  will 

rith  Major 
ef  history 
intf  a  few 

t  distance 
>rk.  This 
it  military 
r  the  gran- 
n  pointing 
shall  give 
r  on  those 
tion. 

iry  on  the 
Highlands, 
war.  The 
ost  it  again 

ras  also  the 

I  handsome 

anding  are 

and  many 


INTON, 

itoii,  on  the 
tperate  with 
;d  by  Gen. 


TM^<*k0r 


M 


TRAVELLER. 


31 


Gates  near  Saratoga,  and  to  afford  him  an  opportunity  to 
force  his  way  to  Hudson  river,  by  effecting  a  diversion  in 
his  favour.    For  this  purpose  Sir  H.  Clinton  had  left  New- 
York  with  3  or  4,000  troops,  embarked  in  the  fleet,  and 
landed  at  Verplanck*s  Point.     The  nest  morning  a  detach- 
ment was  sent  to  Stony  Point,  and  marched  round  in  the 
rear  of  these  forts,  then  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Put- 
nam, and  garrisoned  by  1000  continental  troops,  part  of 
whom  were  unfit  for  duty,  and  a  small  number  of  militia. 
Gen.  Putnam,  apprized  of  the  landing  made  at  Ver- 
planck^s  Point,  and  supposing  the  object  of  the  expedition 
to  be  Fort  Independence,  had  crossed  the  river,  and  made 
preparations  to  oppose  them.     He  did  not  discover  their 
real  intentions  until  he  heard  the  firing  at  forts  Montgo- 
mery and  C)«nton,  which    are  near  each    other,  and 
were  attacked  at  the  same  moment.     Governor  Clinton, 
however,  and   his  brother,  Gen.  James  Clinton,  had  ar- 
rived just  before  Lt.  Col.  Campbell,  with  900  men,  at- 
tacked the  first  of  the  forts,  and  Sir  Henry  Clinton  and 
Generals  Vaughan  and  Tryon  the  other.     The  fighting 
began  between  four  and  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and 
lasted  till  dark,  when  the  Americans  having  lost  about  250 
men,  the  forts  were  surrendered  ;  but  all  the  garrison  who 
were  able,  about  450,  effected  their  escape,  with  the  go- 
vernor and  his  brother  Gen.  James  Clinton.     The  British, 
proceeding  to  West  Point,  removed  the  chain  which  had 
been  stretched  across  the  river  to  prevent  the  passage  of 
their  ships;  and  a  part  of  the  fleet,  under  Sir  James  Wal- 
lace, went  up  to  Kingston,  with  General  Vaughan  and  his 
troops.     Although  they  found  the  village  defenceless,  the 
officers  ordered  it  to  be  burnt,  on  the  13th  of  October. 
The  British  proceeded  no  further  than  that  place;  fortlie 
news  of  Burgoyne's  surrender  being  received  a  few  days 
afterward,  the  fleet  returned  to  New- York. 

Anthony's  Nose.  This  mountain  rises  12S8  feet  from 
the  river,  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Montgomery 
Creek,  looking  down  upon  Forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton. 
Behind  the  latter  is  Bloody  Pond,  where  the  bodies  of  those 
were  thrown  who  were  killed  in  their  defence.  Beyond 
is  the  way  by  which  the  British  troops  approached,  by 
way  of  Smith's  CloVe.  Fort  Putnam,  West  Point,  &c.  are 
vj«ible.  above. 


32 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  Gatskill  mountains  are  in  sight,  apart  of  Connecti* 
cut,  the  Green  Mountains,  with  a  noble  view  down  the 
Hudson,  extending  to  New- Jersey,  and  Harlaem  Heights, 
Long  Island  Sound,  &c.  Even  the  Lunatic  Asylum  in 
New- York  can  be  discovered.  The  mountain  is  accessi- 
ble on  both  sides,  and  it  is  proposed  to  erect  a  house  of 
entertainment  upon  it  at  the  expense  of  $40,000. 

The  military  stores  collected  at  Peekskill  were  seized 
by  the  British  in  January  1777. 

As  the  steam  boat  proceeds,  several  points  are  observed 
projecting  into  the  river,  some  distance  above ;  and  West 
Point  makes  its  appearance  on  the  left  hand,  with  the 
ruins  of  Fort  Putnam  elevated  on  a  commanding  emi- 
nence, a  little  beyond,  59S  feet  above  the  water  level.  Of 
the  latter,  travellers  have  frequently  remarked,  that  it  is  the 
only  object  in  the  United  States  which  deserves  the  name 
of  **  a  ruin ;"  but  in  the  view  of  an  European,  probably,  its 
claim  would  not  ap*  :ar  very  substantial,  as  the  elements 
have  begun  their  aevastatiens  upon  it  within  thirty  or 
forty  years.  It  is,  however,  as  imposing  in  size  as  in  po- 
sition ;  and  the  view  it  commands  over  its  wild  and  moun- 
tainous neighbourhood,  as  well  as  its  connexion  with  our 
history,  will  render  it  worthy  of  a  visit.  There  are  stUi 
three  or  four  subterraneous  rooms  to  be  seen,  and  the 
place  is  so  often  visited,  that  the  path  is  plain,  and  leads 
to  most  of  the  principal  objects  within  it.  This  fortress 
commanded  at  once  the  river  above  and  below  West  Point, 
and  the  passage  into  a  defile  which  opens  through  the 
mountains  westward.  That  defile  was  farther  defended 
by  numerous  little  batteries  and  redoubts  on  the  peaks 
around  it.  The  summits  near  Fort  Putnam  (then  Inde- 
pendence) were  also  occupied,  but  were  not  fit  for  ex- 
tensive works,  although  more  elevated.  The  large  hewn 
stones  used  in  its  construction,  it  is  said,  were  taken 
from  the  shore  at  West  Point,  and  carried  by  men  up  that 
tiresome  ascent.  During  the  war  a  fort  stood  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river,  called  Fort  Constitution. 

Kosciusko's  Retreat  is  near  this  place,  and  the  spot 
is  still  shown  where  he  cultivated  his  little  garden. 


TRAVELLER. 


38 


'onnecti- 
own  the 
Heights, 
tylum  in 
accessi- 
house  of 

re  seized 

observed 
nd  West 
with  the 
liog  emi- 
evel.  Of 
A  it  is  the 
;he  name 
t>ably,  its 
elements 
thirty  or 
IS  in  po- 
id  moun- 
with  our 
i  are  still 
,  and  the 
md  leads 

fortress 
:st  Point, 
ough  the 
defended 
iie  peaks 
en  Inde- 

for  ex- 
'ge  hewn 
e  taken 
I  up  that 
I  the  op- 

the  spot 


WEST  POINT. 

This  was  a  military  position  of  great  consequence  in 
tbe  war.  A  battery  was  erected  on  the  extremity  of  the 
point,  just  over  tbe  river,  to  command  the  channel,  while  a 
strong  iron  chain  was  stretched  across  from  the  shore  be- 
low, to  the  opposite  side.  This  was  taken  up  by  the  Bri- 
tish when  they  went  up  to  Kingston.  Just  round  the 
point,  near  the  margin  of  the  uater,  is  the  cold  spring, 
from  which  tbe  troops  stationed  there  were  supplied  with 
water. 

The  Military  Acadbmt  of  the  United  States 

is  located  at  West  Point ;  and  a  more  delightful  situation 
for  such  an  institution  could  hardly  have  been  selected.  It 
is  designed  for  the  instruction  of  young  men  destined  for 
the  army  ;  and  secondarily  for  maintaining  the  military 
science  in  the  country.  Tbe  Academy  was  established  in 
1802  by  Gen.  Williams,  and  extends  only  to  the  instruc- 
tion of  Cadets.  The  number  of  pupils  is  confined  to  250  ; 
and  in  choosing  from  the  applicants,  the  sons  of  revolu- 
tionary officers  are  allowed  the  first  claim,  and  those  chil- 
dren of  officers  of  the  last  war,  whose  fathers  are  dead, 
the  next.  In  1825,  there  were  about  30  professors,  in- 
strueters,  and  assistants.  Some  of  the  Cadets  affis  'd  as- 
sistance in  instructing,  for  which  they  receive  ad''  tional 
pay.  The  law  prohibits  admission  under  14  ye? .  a  of  age. 
It  has  been  made  a  subject  of  complaint,  however,  that 
too  large  a  proportion  of  those  admitted  are  the  sons  of 
wealthy  parents  not  designed  for  the  army,  while  the  poor 
are  almost  debarred  from  the  gratuitous  advantages  of 
such  an  education. 

The  level  on  which  the  buildings  of  the  institution  are 
erected,  is  188  feet  above  the  river,  though  it  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  once  formed  a  part  of  its  bed.  The 
annual  expense  of  the  institution  to  the  United  States  is 
t^l  15,000.  The  sum  paid  for  the  education  of  a  cadet  is 
about  $330  per  ann.  The  library  consists  of  a  large  and 
valuable  collection  of  books,  on  the  various  branches  of 
military  science,  w^ich  have  been  obtained  with  great  as- 
siduity and  no  small  expense  from  Europe. 

D  2 


34 


THE  NORTHEKN 


The  buildinga  belonging  to  the  institution  are  five ;  all 
large,  and  built  of  stone.  There  are,  besides,  sii  brick 
buildings  for  the  officers  and  professors ;  near  the  water, 
some  old  military  store  houses,  which  contain  arms,  &c. 
used  in  the  revolution.  The  barracks  were  lately  burnt. 
The  course  of  study  is  completed  in  four  years,  each 
being  devoted  to  a  class ;  and  includes  the  French  lan- 
guage, drawing,  natural  and  experimental  philosophy, 
chemistry  and  mineralogy,  geography,  history,  ethics,  and 
national  faw,  mathematics  in  the  highest  branches,  and 
lastly,  artillery  and  engineering. 

Study  concludes  each  day  at  4,  P.  M.  and  it  succeeded 
by  the  parade,  which  lasts  till  sunset. 

One  of  the  particular  spots  worthy  of  attention,  is 
Col.  Beverly  Robinson's  mansion,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  whiich  was  made  the  head  quarters  of  the  several 
officers  who  were  at  different  periods  invested  with  the 
command  of  this  important  part  of  the  country.  It  was 
resorted  to  at  different  times  by  most  of  our  distinguished 
revolutionary  men,  and  is  the  place  where  Arnold  was 
stationed  when  he  so  basely  deserted  his  country's  cause. 
In  September  1780,  while  the  British  held  possession  of 
Hudson  River  up  to  the  borders  of  the  Highlands,  and 
Gen.  Arnold  was  in  command  here,  a  correspondence  was 
carried  on  by  him  with  the  British  officers  on  the  subject 
of  surrendering  his  post  into  their  hands.  To  bring  their 
designs  to  a  conclusion,  it  was  determined  that  a  meeting 
should  be  held. 

Andre  was  sent  under  cover  of  the  night  from  the  sloop 
of  war  Vulture,  which  was  then  lying  in  Haverstraw  Bay, 
to  a  place  which  had  been  appointed  for  the  conference. 
A  man  by  the  name  of  Smith  had  been  sent  on  board  by 
Arnold,  under  the  pretence  of  negotiating  about  an  ho- 
nourable treaty  witli  Great  Britain,  and  he  accompanied 
Andre  to  the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  the  Long  Clove, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  Here  they  found  Gen. 
Arnold  in  a  dark  grove  of  evergreen  trees,  according  to 
appointment. 

So  long  was  this  interview  in  coming  to  a  close,  that  the 
day  dawned  about  the  time  of  its  termination,  and  the 
approaching  light  put  it  out  of  the  power  of  Miy.  Andre 
to  pass  in  safety  the  posts  at  Yerplank's  and  Stony  Points. 


TRAVELLER. 


35 


i'^-' 


IS 


He  was  tberefare  obliged  to  retire  to  Smith's  house,  and 
change  his  dress  for  a  plain  disguise. 

General  Arnold  had  furnished  him  with  a  pass  under  the 
name  of  John  Anderson ;  and  on  the  following  evening 
he  set  out  by  land,  accompanied  by  Smith  as  a  guide. 
They  rode  that  night  to  McKoy's,  aftergoingeightornine 
miles ;  and  the  next  he  spent  at  Pine's  Bridge,  over  Cro- 
ton  River.  Here  he  parted  with  Smith,  and  proceeded 
alone  six  miles,  when,  as  he  had  passed  the  American 
lines,  and  was  approaching  those  of  the  British,  he  was 
discovered  by  three  men,  who  were  concealed  from  hioi 
behind  a  bank ;  and  one  of  them  suddenly  stepping  from 
under  a  tree  by  the  road  side,  seized  his  horse  by  the  bri- 
dle. Andre  was  put  o£f  his  guard,  either  b]^  a  sense  of 
security,  or  surprue,  and  thoughtlessly  demanded  where 
he  was  from.  "  From  below,"  replied  the  man,  meaning 
from  the  British  party.  "  So  am  I,''  replied  Andre ;  and 
he  immediately  informed  him  of  his  being  a  British  offi- 
cer, travelling  on  urgent  business. 

When  he  discovered  that  the  strangers  were  New- York 
militia-men,  on  a  scout  between  the  lines,  he  offered  his 
watch  as  a  ransom  for  his  liberty ;  but  having  searched 
his  clothes,  they  found  proof  of  his  designs,  and  refused 
to  release  him.  They  found  in  his  boots  a  description  of 
the  works  at  West  Point,  with  returns  of  all  the  forces  of 
the  garrison,  in  the  hand  writing  of  Arnold. 

This  happened  on  the  23d  of  September.  A  messenger 
was  immediately  sent  to  General  Washington ;  and,  at  An- 
dre's request,  Lieut.  Col.  Jamieson  sent  to  Arnold  to  in- 
form him  that  Anderson  was  taken.  The  latter  messen- 
ger arrived  first ;  and  Arnold,  as  raon  as  he  learnt  the 
truth,  rushed  down  a  very  steep  bank,  sprang  into  his 
boat,  and  ordered  the  rowers  to  take  him  on  board  the 
Vulture.  He  appeared  agitated,  but  the  cause  was  then 
unknown ;  priming  his  pistols  again,  and  inquiring  if 
they  had  arms  on  board.  He  tied  his  handkerchief  to 
his  cane,  and  used  it  for  a  signal  in  passing  the  forts.  As 
soon  as  Gen.  Washington  was  informed  of  Andre's  cap- 
ture, he  despatched  Col.  Hamilton  to  Verplanck's  Point  to 
stop  him ;  but  he  arrived  too  late,  and  Arnold  escaped  on 
l»oard. 

On  the  29th  of  September  a  board  of  -officers  was  ap- 


<- 


«D 


THE  ISOUTHERN 


pointed  for  the  trial  of  Major  Andre,  and  sentenced  him 
to  suffer  death  as  a  spy.  Objeetions  were  made  to  this 
sentence,  on  the  ground  that  Andre  had  been  intriNluced 
intc  the  American  camp  under  the  passport  of  one  ot  uur 
officers ;  but  the  delivery  of  Arnold  being  made  the  con- 
dition of  his  release,  and  that  being  refused  by  the  British, 
he  was  kept  in  prison  until  the  2d  day  of  October,  when 
he  was  hung  at  the  town  of  Tappan,  ^here  his  body  was 
afterward  interred. 

The  feeling  which  this  necessary  but  melancholy  event 
produced  in  the  minds  of  our  counirymen,  was  sincere, 
deep,  and  permanent ;  and  those  who  acknowledged  that 
the  sentence  was  just,  and  his  fate  in  those  circumstances 
unavoidable,  lamented  the  ignominious  death  of  a  man 
of  such  a  noble,  interesting  character,  and  one  who  had 
risen  to  a  distinguished  staiion  at  an  early  age.  His  life 
was  published  and  widely  circulated  in  the  United  States ; 
and  there  is  scarcely  a  child  to  be  found  at  this  day,  who 
has  not  mourned  over  the  sorrowful  tale  of  Me^or  Andre. 

A  few  years  since  the  British  government  sent  to  this 
country  to  obtain  his  remains,  which  were  removed  to 
England  and  placed  in  the  family  vault  of  the  then  Prince 
Regent.  A  cypress  tree  which  grew  over  his  grave  was 
likewise  removed  to  the  garden  of  the  present  king.  The 
roots  of  this  tree  were  found  to  have  twined  themselves 
about  the  skull. 

At  leaving  West  Point,  the  traveller  will  observe  several 
remarkably  high  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  for 
which  he  is  referred  to  the  Map.  Putnam*s  Rocr  was 
rolled  from  the  top  of  Butter  Hill,  June  1778,  by  a  party 
of  soldiers  directed  by  General  Putnam. 

Newburgh. — This  is  a  town  of  considerable  size,  C 
miles  beyond  the  Highlands,  with  some  handsome  build- 
ings. Here  begins  the  Stage  Road  leading  from  the  river 
to  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of  Cayuga  Lake,  and  communica- 
ting, by  a  steam  boat,  with  the  great  western  turnpike  at 
Cayuga  Bridge. 

Newburgh  is  advantageously  situated  for  the  eye  of 
one  approaching  it,  as  it  stands  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill 
which  slopes  handsomely  to  the  shore. 

A  coach  runs  daily  to  Goshen,  near  which  are  the  Che- 
xnunk  Springs*  ^    .,  ^  * 


U)^ 


iced  him 
I  to  this 
TiNluced 
e  ot  our 
the  con- 
I  British, 
jr,  when 
)ody  was 

Ay  event 
I  sincere, 
Iged  that 
ntitances 
if  a  man 
who  had 
His  life 
1  States ; 
day,  who 
>r  Andre, 
it  to  this 
moved  to 
Bn  Prince 
;rave  was 
ing.  The 
lemselves 

re  several 
river,  for 
tocK  was 
y  a  party 

le  size, G 
me  build- 
the  river 
nmunica- 
rnpikc  at 

he  eye  of 
r  of  a  hill 

the  Che- 


m-tr 


H- 


.iW»r<* 


"k 


i 


Boolter 


B^wy 


TRAVELLEU. 


47 


/^ 


JSi 


^ 


1# 


f{J    I 


lliiudsou 


FiSHKiLL  Mountain. — The  summitfl,  called  North  and 
South  Beacons,  which  rise  opposite  Newburgh,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  4  miles,  command  a  fine  view  over  tbc  surround- 
ing  country,  and  the  river,  which  appears,  interrupted  by 
the  Highlands,  like  a  number  of  lakes.  It  has  been  pro- 
posed to  erect  a  house  there  for  the  accommodation  of 
visiters,  and  the  place  affords  a  convenient  garden  spot, 
with  a  fine  stream,  which  would  furnish  a  supply  of  wa- 
ter for  baths ;  and  a  little  to  the  east,  a  cavern,  which 
alwavs  contain?  a  quantity  of  ice,  oven  in  the  warmest 
weather.  Fort  Putnam  is  in  sight,  and  it  is  said  that  land 
may  be  seen  in  seven  different  states.  Many  villages,  as 
well  as  the  river,  are  included  by  the  view,  particularly 
that  of  Matteawan,  a  manufacturing  place.  Wappinger's 
Creek  has  a  beautiAil  island  at  its  mouth,  well  stocked 
with  rabbits. 

PouoHKBBrsiB  IS  worthy  of  a  particular  description,  as 
it  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  and  has  a  singu- 
lar situation.  There  are  three  or  four  rough  and  rocky 
projections  on  the  shore,  which  break  up  the  streets  of 
the  village,  and  are  partly  occupied  with  houses  and  gar- 
dens.   The  effect  is  peculiar. 

For  several  miles  beyond,  the  shores  are  of  a  regular 
elevation,  but  are  cut  through  by  several  streams,  which 
afford  a  little  variety,  as  wharves  are  usually  constructed 
at  their  mouths,  where  a  sloop  or  two  receive  their  car'^ 
goes  of  timber  or  produce  for  New- York. 


f>> 


^O 


SS       CO. 


I 


THE  CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS. 

As  the  traveller  proceeds,  he  at  length  discovers  the  dis- 
tant ridge  of  the  Catskill  mountains,  which  limit  the  view 
in  that  direction  for  many  miles,  and  form  a  grand  feature 
in  the  scene.  On  account  of  their  great  elevation,  they 
seem  less  distant  than  they  really  are  ;  and  although  they 
present  so  imposing  an  appearance  when  directly  opposite, 
they  no  where  approach  nearer  to  the  river  than  8  miles, 
and  in  some  places  retire  15  and  even  20. 

An  excursion  to  the  summit  of  these  mountains  is  per- 
formed by  great  numbers  of  travellers  ;  and  indeed  has 
become  so  favourite  an  enterprise,  that  it  may  very  pro- 
perly be  ranged  among  the  principal  objects  in  the  great 


Soalter 


3S 


THE  NORTHERN 


tour  wbicb  we  are  just  commencing.  The  visit  may  be 
accomplished  in  one  day,  though  two  or  three  may  be 
agreeably  spent  in  examining,  at  leisure,  the  grand  and 
beautiful  scenery  of  that  romantic  neighbourhood,  par- 
ticularly in  observing  the  break  of  day  and  the  retiring  of 
the  sun  from  that  lofty  height.  There  is  a  large  and  com- 
modious house  of  entertainment  erected  at  the  Pine  Or- 
chard, one  of  the  peaks  of  the  mountain,  about  3000  feet 
above  the  river.  It  is  visible  from  the  steam  boat,  and 
the  ascent  to  it  is  performed  without  fatigue,  in  a  stage 
coach,  which  goes  and  returns  regularly  twice  a  day. 

The  place  to  land  for  this  excursion  is  Catskill,  where 
begins  a  turnpike  road  to  Ithaca,  Taking  the  stage  coach 
here,  for  $1  you  proceed  towards  the  Pine  Orchard,  pass- 
ing a  good  inn  at  the  distance  of  7  miles,  and  then  begin- 
ning the  ascent,  which  is  surmounted  by  a  winding  road 
that  affords  much  wild  scenery  and  many  a  glimpse  at  the 
surrounding  country.  Five  miles  of  such  travelling  brings 
the  visiter  to 

The  Pine  Orchard.  This  is  a  large  and  singular 
plain,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  nearly  a  mile 
broad,  3000  feet  above  the  river,  covered  with  a  growth 
of  forest  trees,  and  furnished  with  a  house  of  great 
size,  and  two  stories  high,  built  for  the  accommodation 
of  visiters.  The  view  which  it  commands  towards  the 
west  and  north  is  extensive  and  grand.  The  Hudson  is 
seen  winding  from  afar  through  its  verdant  valleys,  its 
margin  adorned  with  villages,  and  its  surface  enlivened 
with  vessels  of  various  descriptions.  Immediately  below 
is  seen  a  region  of  uncultivated  mountains,  which  is  stri- 
kingly contrasted  with  the  charming  aspect  of  fertility  that 
reigns  beyond,  and  presents  all  the  variety  of  hill  and 
vale,  town,  hamlet,  and  cottage. 

The  Pine  Orchard  is  the  resort  of  so  much  company 
during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  that  the  attrac- 
tions of  its  scenery  are  redoubled  by  the  presence  of 
agreeable  and  refined  society.  Individuals  of  taste  and 
leisure,  and  still  more,  parties  of  travellers,  will  thus  often 
enjoy  a  gratification  which  is  rarely  to  be  found  in  a  place 
naturally  so  wild  and  difficult  of  access. 

The  Round  Top  is  a  summit  of  ereat  elevation  to- 


TRAVKLLEH. 


J.U 


lit  may  be 
e  may  be 
;rand  and 
lood,  par- 
retiring  of 
I  and  com- 
B  Pine  Or- 
t  3000  feet 
I  boat,  and 
in  a  stage 

I  day. 
kill,  where 
tage  coach 
bard,  pass- 
hen  begin- 
nding  road 
npse  at  the 
lling  brings 

id  singular 
airly  a  mile 
h  a  growth 
i  of  great 
mmodation 
owards  the 
Hudson  is 
valleys,  its 
e  enlivened 
ately  below 
hich  is  stri- 
lertility  that 
of  hill  and 

ch  company 
t  the  attrac- 
presence  of 
»f  taste  and 

II  thus  often 
id  in  a  place 

levation  to- 


tvards  the  south,  from  which  the  view  is  more  extensive. 
It  is  3,718  feet  above  the  ocean. 

Thb  North  Mountain,  however,  is  the  finest  pointof 
view  of  all,  being  about  3,304  feet  higher  than  the  ocean, 
and  overlooking  a  large  tract  of  country  on  the  norths 
west,  which  is  not  in  sight  from  the  other.     On  the 
west  side  of   the    river  is  seen  part  of  the  counties  of 
Albany,  Greene,  Ulster,  and  Orange ;  and   on  the  east, 
part  of  Putnam  county,  and  all  of  Dutchess,  Columbia, 
and  Rensselaer.   The  distant  high  land  in  the  east  belongs 
partly  to  Taughkannuc  and  Saddle  Mountains,  in  Massa- 
chusetts, and  perhaps  partly  to  the  Green  Mountains  in 
Vermont.     Lower  down  is  discovered  a  range  of  hills  in 
the  western  counties  of  Connecticut.  The  eye  embraces  a 
tract  of  country  about   100  miles  in   length,  and  50  in 
breadth  ;  and  a  large  part  of  it  is  supposed,  by  geologists, 
to  have  formed  the  bed  of  a  great  lake  in  some  long  past 
age,  when  the  Hudson  was  thrown  back  by  the  barrier 
presented  at  the  Highlands,  before  the  present  chasm  had 
been  cut  for  its  passage. 

The  rich  cultivation  of  Dutchess  county,  proverbially 
fertile,  will  be  dwelt  on  with  great  delight ;  while  the  nu- 
merous vessels  continoaliy  skimming  over  the  Hudson, 
may  serve  co  remind  the  spectator  of  those  vast  and  pro- 
ductive regions  which  nature  had  made  tributary  to  other 
streams,  but  whose  wealth  has  been  diverted  by  art  into 
the  same  broad  channel.  Many  of  the  vessels  which 
navigate  the  Hudson  are  freighted  with  the  productions  of 
Lake  Erie ;  and  the  stranger  may,  perhaps,  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  see  them  gliding  by  to  New-York,  regardless  of 
the  wind,  as  steam  boats  are  now  employed  expressly  for 
that  purpose. 

Nearly  opposite  is  seen  the  old  Livingston  Manor, 
which  is  one  of  the  few  great  aristocratical  estates  existing 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  It  contains  a  tract  of  about 
14,000  acres. 

The  Cascades.  There  is  a  singular  and  highly  roman- 
tic scene  which  has  been  intentionally  reserved  for  the 
last.  At  the  other  side  of  the  Pine  Orchard  are  two  fine 
cascades,  which  the  visiter  must  not  fail  to  see,  even 
if  he  should  neglecf  to  ascend  the  north  or  south  summits. 
A  path  leads  through  the  woods  to  the  cascades,  passing 


40 


THE  NORTHERN 


near  two  small  lakes,  from  which  the  supply  of  water  is 
derived.  They  are  small,  but  so  shut  in  by  rude  and  wild 
mountain  scenery  as  to  render  them  very  striking  to  the 
stranger. 

The  Lares  lie  very  near  each  other,  and  communicate 
by  a  small  stream.  They  are  probably  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  circumference  each,  and  remarkable  for  their 
appearance.  The  stream,  which  flows  from  the  second 
lake  runs  to  the  western  extremity  of  the  Pine  Orchard, 
where  the  level  terminates,  very  abruptly,  at  a  high  and 
shelving  precipice,  descending  into  a  tremendous  gorge 
between  ridges  of  gloomy  mountains.  The  whole  scene 
is  on  a  vast  and  imposing  scale.  The  gulf  is  gloomy,  and 
the  steep  ascents  on  both  sides  are  entirely  clothed  with 
forests.  Just  at  the  feet  of  the  spectator  the  stream  rushes 
along  and  springs  from  the  rock,  in  two  successive  cata- 
racts, into  the  deep  and  narrow  valley  below.  The  first 
fall  is  175  feet,  and  the  second  80 :  both  perpendicular, 
without  a  single  protruding  rock  to  break  the  snow-white 
sheet. 

A  building  is  erected  on  the  left  hand)  where  refresh* 
ments  may  be  obtained ;  and  on  the  right  is  a  steep  path 
by  which  even  ladies  may  descend  in  safety  to  the  foot  of 
the  falls. 

There  is  a  cavern  under  the  first  cataract,  where  the 
shelving  rock  shelters  the  stranger  from  the  spray,  and 
throws  a  dark  shade  around  him,  which  sets  off,  in  the 
most  beautiful  manner,  the  wild  scenery  below.  Mr.  Cole, 
a  young  artist  of  great  promise,  made  a  delightful  picture 
of  this  scene  in  1 S25.  It  has  been  exhibited  in  New- 
York. 

At  a  little  distance  the  stream  takes  its  second  leap  into 
a  dark  abyss ;  and  from  a  rock  at  that  place,  it  is  seen 
rushing  tumultuously  along  over  a  steep  and  rocky  chan 
nel,  winding  between  the  bases  of  the  mountains  until 
gradually  sweeps  away  towards  the  south,  and  disappears 
among  the  rude  scenery  that  surrounds  it. 

On  a  fine  summer  day,  the  splendour  of  the  scene  is 
greatly  increased  by  the  depth  of  the  lights  and  shades, 
as  well  as  the  forms  and  motion  of  the  mist,  which  the 
wind  is  continually  bearing  off  from  the  water  falls ;  and 
the  brilliancy  of  the  rainbow?  with  which  they  are  ofter 
decked  bv  the  beams  of  the  snn. 


it 


THAVELLEK, 


41 


water  is 
and  wild 
g  to  the 

nunicate 
[uarter  of 
for  tbeir 
e  second 
Orchard, 
high  and 
us  gorge 
)le  scene 
smy,  and 
;hed  with 
im  rushes 
live  cata- 
The  first 
ndicular, 
ow-white 

B  refresh- 
eep  path 
le  foot  of 

here  the 
)ray,  and 
iff,  in  the 
^r.  Cole, 
il  picture 
in  New- 
leap  into 
it  is  seen 
ky  chan- 
s  until  it 
isappears 

scene  is 
shades, 
/hich  the 
,11s;  and 
ire  ofter 


After  gratifying  his  curiosity  and  taste  with  scenes  like 
these,  the  traveller  will  return  to  Catskill  to  take  the  next 
steam  boat ;  and  by  making  the  necessary  arrangements, 
he  can  proceed  up  the  river  with  very  little  delay. 


*•.!'■ 


THE  CITY  OF  HUDSON,  5|  miles. 

This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  towns  on 
the  river,  and  occupies  a  commanding  eminence  on  the 
eastern  bank,  with  several  ranges  of  large  stores  built 
near  the  watcr^s  level.  On  the  brow  of  the  ascent  from 
the  water  is  a  favourite  promenade,  from  which  a  charm- 
ing view  is  enjoyed  of  the  river  and  the  opposite  Gatskill 
mountains.  The  western  shore  is  variegated  and  beauti- 
ful, and  contains  the  village  of  Athens. 

If  the  traveller  wishes  to  proceed  directly  to  JWtc-Le- 
banon  Springs,  this  is  the  proper  place  to  leave  the  steam 
boat ;  as  there  is  a  direct  road  leading  to  that  place,  and 
a  stage  coach  goes  twice  a  week.  The  distance  is  28 
miles.  Hudson  is  117^  miles  from  New- York,  and  27^ 
from  Albany.     ^ 

There  are  some  fine  country  seats  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. 

The  OvBRSLAGH,  4  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  place  where 
the  large  steam  boats  are  obliged  to  stop  when  the  river  is 
very  low,  because  the  water  is  much  more  shallotv  be- 
yond. A  small  steam  boat  is  then  sent  down  to  take  out 
the  passengers  and  luggage  ;  and,  at  the  hour  of  depar- 
ture, comes  down  with  the  passengers  for  New- York. 

Improvement  of  tjie  J^avigation  of  Hudson  River* 

A  company  was  incorporated  by  the  state  Legislature  in 
1326,  for  improving  the  navigation  of  the  Hudson.  $14, 
000  were  to  be  appropriated  for  a  machine,  for  deepening 
the  channel  from  Troy,  to  below  Cueymans.  Tke  Hud- 
son Ship  Canal  Company j  was  also  incorporated  at  tho 
same  time,  with  a  capital  of  a  million  of  dollars.  Tbeir 
design  is  to  make  a  ship  canal  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river  to  near  New  Baltimore. 


42 


THE  NORTHEUiS 


-     ALBANY,  145  miles  from  New-York. 

Inns.  RockwelFs  Mansion  House,  in  North  Market* 
street ;  Skinner's  ;  Cruttenden's,  on  Capitol  Hill ;  Bam- 
man's,  South  Market-street ;  and  Fobes's,  near  the  steam 
boat  wharf.  The  best  houses  in  Albany  are  large  and 
well  kept,  and  the  stranger  will  find  excellent  accommo- 
dations, provided  the  city  is  not  too  much  filled  b^  the 
session  of  the  Legislature,  or  some  other  extraordinary 
occurrence.  The  charges,  however,  are  very  high  in  tbit 
city,  and  form  a  mighty  contrast  with  the  moderate  de- 
mands for  food,  lodging,  &c.  in  the  inns  along  the  coune 
of  the  canal,  and  in  the  canal  boats  themselves. 

Routes  from  Albany.  Stage  coaches  run  daily  to- 
wards  all  the  four  cardinal  points  ;  and  six  or  eight  fVe- 
quently  set  ofi"  in  the  same  direction.  Indeed  the  num- 
ber is  often  much  greater  than  this  when  the  full  crowd  of 
travellers  is  pressing  towards  the  Springs.  By  steady  tra- 
velling, you  may  go  to  Buffalo  in  three  days,  296  miles. 
Two  or  three  steam  boats  go  daily  to  New- York ;  small 
packet  boats  go  on  the  canal  to  the  Junction,  8^  miles  ; 
and  a  large  and  convenient  one  used  to  go  evei^  day  to 
Schenectady,  28^  miles,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  it  will 
be  continued.  The  circuit  and  delays  occasioned  by  the 
locks,  make  the  passage  consume  a  whole  day.  The 
freight  boats  of  the  Erie  and  Ontario  Transportation 
Company  are  very  numerous,  and  have  been  lately  fitted 
up  very  comfortably  for  passengers,  and  convey  them  at  a 
less  price  than  the  regular  packets. 

Strangers  travelling  to  the  Springs  or  Canada  will  be 
pleased  with  a  route  ivhich  was  opened  hence  to  Ballston 
and  Saratoga  in  1825,  by  a  line  of  coaches  to  the  Cohoes 
Falls,  a  canal  boat  thence  to  Clifton  Park,  and  a  second 
line  of  coaches  onward.  As  this  route  is  travelled  only  a 
part  of  the  season,  it  will  be  best  to  make  inquiries  con- 
cerning it.  Dinner  was  furnished  jn  board  (he  boat  in 
1825,  although  cooked  in  another  boat  called  the  "Betsey 
Cook." 

For  the  Route  to  Niagara,  see  page  60.  For  other 
routes,  &c.  see  index ;  also  "  Remarks"  at  Ballstoii 
Springs. 

The  Capitol,  or  State  House,  occupies  a  commandine 


TIIAVELLER. 


43 


Market* 
;  Bam- 
e  steam 
rge  and 
commo- 
l  bv  the 
rdinary 
i  in  tbit 
'ate  de* 
}  course 

laily  to- 
ight  (Ve- 
le  num" 
rowd  of 
ady  tra- 
)  miles. 
}  small 

miles ; 

day  to 
^r  it  will 

by  the 
The 
ortation 
ly  fitted 
lem  at  a 

will  be 
Ballbton 
Coboes 
second 
d  only  a 
ies  con- 
boat  in 
i»*Bet8ey 

ar  other 
Ballstoii 

nandinc 


■I 
i 


position,  and  contains  the  Assembly  and  Senate  Cham- 
bers;  the  Supreme  Court,  County  Court,  &c.  &c.  It  is 
115  feet  in  length,  90  in  breadth,  and  50  high.  On  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river  is  Greenbush,  famous  for  more 
than  a  century  as  a  cantonment ;  and  the  now  deserted 
lines  of  barracks  are  clearly  seen  from  the  State  House. 
This  is  the  first  point  worthy  of  notice,  connected  with 
the  colonial  wars  against  Canada.  At  Greenbush,  the 
troops  supplied  in  quotas  by  the  eastern  colonies,  used  to 
meet  those  of  New* York ;  and  hence  they  proceeded,  un- 
der commanders  appointed  by  the  British  government, 
against  their  enemies  in  the  north. 

The  AcAORMT,  just  north  of  the  Capitol,  is  a  lai^e  in- 
stitution for  the  higher  branches  of  education. 

Albany  received  a  great  impulse  during  the  late  war 
with  England,  on  account  of  its  local  position :  tut  peace 
brought  with  it  a  fatal  stagnation  of  business,  the  effects 
of  which  are  still  apparent  in  some  parts  of  the  city,  al- 
though the  more  natural  and  wholesome  prosperity  which 
already  begins  to  flow  in  through  the  canal,  has  done  much 
to  obliterate  them.     Population  in  1825,  15,954. 

The  Farmers^  and  Mechanics'  Bank,  and  the  Albany 
Bank,  both  at  the  foot  of  State-street,  are  handsome 
buildings  of  white  marble  ;  and  the  latter  is  lighted  by  a 
glass  dome.  State-street  deserves  to  be  mentioned,  on 
account  of  its  remarkable  breadth  and  fine  appearance. 
At  night,  the  lamps  there  make  a  very  fine  show.  The 
Museum  is  in  South  Market-street.  For  the  BasiHt  see 
page  48. 

There  is  a  fine  Waterfall  about  8  miles  from  Albany,  in 
a  south-west  direction,  which  has  recently  attracted  many 
visiters,  and  is  well  worthy  of  attention.  The  first  part 
of  the  way  is  over  a  sandy  turnpike  road,  through  a  fine 
plain ;  after  which  Nordman's  creek  opens  with  a  very 
pretty  appearance,  the  view  being  bounded  in  front  by  a 
mountain  covered  with  forest  trees^and  the  level  near  the 
stream  laid  out  in  fine  farms,  and  well  populated.  The 
falls  are  on  a  branch  of  Nordman's  creek ;  and  although 
they  present  no  perpendicular  descent  of  any  considerable 
height,  the  water  dashes  over  a  great  number  of  little 
precipices  in  quick  succession,  which  break  it  up  into  a 
sheet  of  foam ;  and  the  spot  itself  is  of  quite  a  romantic 
character. 


44 


THE  NORTHERN 


LEBANON  SPRINGS,  25  miles  east  from  Albany. 

New  Lebanon  Springs  is  one  of  the  most  deli{;htrul 
resorts  for  strangers,  in  point  of  situation,  being  in 
this  respect  incomparably  superior  to  either  of  the  great 
watering  places  Saratoga  and  Ballston.  It  is  acces- 
sible with  facility  from  different  directions,  and  possess- 
es strong  attractions  in  its  rich  and  beautiful  scenery,  being 
situated  on  the  side  of  a  fine  amphitheatre  of  hills  and 
mountains.  The  approach  from  almost  every  side  is 
through  a  diversified  region,  offering  many  prospects  of 
fertile  vales  and  commanding  eminences,  covered  with 
green,  and  frequently  cultivated  to  their  summits.  Among 
all  the  places  which  might  have  been  selected  for  an  agree- 
able residence  in  the  warm  seasons,  and  calculated  to 
please  a  taste  for  the  softer  beauties  of  nature,  none  per- 
haps could  have  been  found  more  eligible  than  that  we  are 
about  to  describe. 

The  village  of  New  Lebanon  is  situated  in  a  little  val- 
ley, surrounded  by  fine  hills,  or  rather  spurs  from  the 
two  ranges  of  high  ground,  descending  with  a  rich  and 
graceful  slope  on  every  side  to  its  borders.  The  valley  is 
almost  a  perfect  level,  which  contrasts  delightfully  with 
the  bold  sides  of  the  uplands,  some  of  which  are  divest- 
ed of  their  forests,  and  ornamented  with  cultivated  fields 
and  farms,  presenting  a  rich  variety  to  the  eye  wherever 
it  turns. 

On  the  side  of  a  hill  about  two  miles  cast  from  the  vil- 
lage, and  about  half-way  to  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  issues 
out  a  Spring  of  clear  warm  water,  which,  although  pos- 
sessed of  no  strong  mineral  qualities,  has  given  the  place 
much  of  its  celebrity ;  and  there  stands  a  fine  and  spacious 
hotel,  to  which  the  visiter  will  direct  his  course. 

In  coming  from  the  west,  the  Shaker  Village  opens 
just  beyond  th/e  last^turnpike  gate ;  and  on  approaching 
the  hotel,  it  is  better  to  take  the  road  which  turns  off  to 
the  right,  as  the  direct  road  up  the  hill  is  very  steep  and 
laborious. 

The  terms  of  boarding  are  as  follows :  in  July,  $8  per 
week,  and  at  other  seasons  $7.  Near  the  Spring  is  a  Bath 
House,  containing  warm,  cold,  and  shower  baths. 


\  J 


TRAVELLEK. 


45 


bany. 

lelightrul 
being  in 
the  great 
is  acces- 
[  possess- 
;ry,  being 
hills  and 
^  side  is 
aspects  of 
ered  with 
».  Among 
an  agree- 
Mxlated  to 
none  per- 
lat  we  are 

little  val- 
from  the 
,  rich  and 
le  valley  is 
tfuUy  with 
are  divest- 
ated  fields 
wherever 

)m  the  vil- 
dge,  issues 
lOugh  pos- 
[1  the  place 
id  spacious 
I. 

age  opens 
>proaching 
urns  off  to 
steep  and 

uly,  $8  per 
ig  is  a  Bath 
hs. 


A  little  arbour  will  be  observed  on  the  acclivity  of  the 
hill  above  the  house,  the  path  to  which  lies  through  the 
garden  ;  and  there  an  uninterrupted  view  will  be  enjoyed 
over  the  surrounding  landscape.  A  still  more  extensive 
sight  may  be  obtained  from  the  summit  of  the  hill,  by  fol- 
lowing the  road  for  a  considerable  distance  up,  and  then 
turning  off  into  the  fields.  But  the  former  point  of  view 
will  be  most  frequently  taken  by  visiters,  on  account  of 
the  facility  of  access.  On  the  south-east  is  the  road  to 
Northampton ;  south-west,  the  most  extensive  scene,  and 
the  road  to  the  Shaker  Village ;  west,  village  of  New  Le- 
banon, and  road  to  Albany  and  Troy ;  north-west,  the 
side  of  a  fine  sloping  bill,  well  cultivated,  and  near  at  hand. 

Distances.  To  Albany,  26  miles ;  Troy,  27.  (This 
is  the  shortest  way  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs, 
Lake  George,  &c.)    To  Hartford,  69  miles. 

The  watf^rs  of  the  Spring  are  abundant,  and  much  es- 
teemed for  uathing,  always  keeping  the  temperature  of 
72®  Fahrenheit,  although  they  cannot  be  supposed  tc  pos- 
sess any  mineral  virtues,  as  may  be  inferred  from  an  ex- 
amination of  the  following  analysis  given  by  Dr.  Meade, 
and  quoted  by  Professor  Silliman :  Two  quarts  of  the  Le- 
banon water  contain 

Muriate  of  lime,  1  grain. 
Muriate  of  Soda,  1^ 
Sulphate  of  lime,  1  ^ 
Carbonate  of  do.  | 


OJ  Jleriform  fluids. 

I  Nitrogen  gas,        13  cubic  in. 
I  Atmospheric  air,    8    do. 

5  grains.  21 

The  Lebanon  water  is  therefore  purer  than  most  natu- 
ral waters,  and  purer  than  those  in  the  vicinity,  which 
flow  from  the  same  hill.  It  resembles  very  much  the 
Buxton  water  in  England,  though  it  is  not  quite  so  warm ; 
and  the  Bristol  water  is  another  example  of  tepid  water 
almo.'it  entirely  without  mineral  qualities.  Professor  Sil- 
liman compares  the  scenery  about  Lebanon  Springs  to 
that  of  Bath  in  England.  It  is  however  graduated  more 
on  those  principles  of  taste  which  habit  cherishes  in  an 
American,  as  it  abounds  far  more  in  the  deep  hues  of  the 
forest,  and  every  where  exhibits  the  signs  of  progressive 
improvement.    Few  places  can  be  found  in  this  part  of 

E2 


46  THE  NORTHERN 

the  country,  where  the  views  are  so  extensive  and  grand, 
at  the  same  time  that  they  embrace  so  many  rich  and 
swelling  slopes,  with  so  many  a  scene  of  neat,  beautiful, 
and  productive  husbandry. 

Messrs.  Kerr  &  Hull's  house  at  the  Springs,  is  very 
large,  commodious,  and  elegant ;    and,  during  the  past 
season,  accommodated  300  persons  at  one  time :  probably 
as  many  as  any  public  house  in  the  country.     The  attend- 
ance and  table  will  be  found  excellent,  and  Saratoga  and 
Ballston  waters  may  be  obtained  at  the  bar.    It  stands 
close  by  the  spring,  and  is  furnished  with  baths  supplied 
with  the  water.     The  old  house  has  been  put  m  complQite 
repair,  and  fitted  up  anew ;  a  very  large  addition  was  built 
to  it  in  1824,  which  attracted  vast  numbers  of  visiters  to 
the  place  in  both  the  succeeding  seasons.     The  first  bouse 
measures  SO  feet,  and  the  new  one  130 :   5  stories  high. 
They  stand  in  the  form  of  an  L,  and  a  fine  piazza  runs 
along  them  both,  measuring  220  feet*    The  place  ■  now 
vies  with  Ballston  and  Saratoga,  and  has  sometimes  count- 
ed more  visiters  than  either  of  them.     The  stranger  will 
here  find  the  same  amusement  and  gaiety  growing  up  in 
the  fashionable  season,  and  witness  the  same  round  of 
arrivals  and  emigrations,  with  a  similar  decline  as  the 
leaves  begin  to  cbange. 

Roads  from  Lebanon  Springs. 

From  New  Lebanon  Springs  to  Troy,  there  is  a  very 
good  road,  through  a  variegated  country.  Distances  as 
iollows  :  to  Nassau,  14  utiles  ;  thence  to  Troy,  18. 

From  the  Springs  to  Hudson  is  28  miles,  and  a  stage 
coach  goesi  thither  twice  a  week.  The  following  is  a  table 
of  distances  on  the  road  to  Boston : 

Pittsfield 7  miles. 

Hinsdale 9 

Peru, 4 

Worthington, .   6 

Chesterfield, 6 

Northampton,'*' 13 


•If 

■■yf 


vf 


i 


*  Northampton  is  a  beautiful  town  on  Connecticut  River, 
and  well  worthy  of  a  day's  delay  at  least.     Mount  Jiolyoha 


TKAVELLEK. 


47 


grand, 
:h  and 
dutiful, 

is  very- 
lie  past 
robably 
attend- 
»ga  and 
stands 
supplied 
oniplQilLe 
vas  built 
alters  to 
st  bouse 
es  high, 
zza  runs 
ice  •  now 
3s  count- 
iiger  will 
ing  up  in 
round  of 
i  as  the 


IS  a  very    I 

.'! 

tances  as 

18. 

% 

d  a  stage 

;  is  a  table 

7  miles. 

■M 

9 

.^^ 

4 

6 

6  , 

13  / 

eut  River, 

t  Holyohe 

Jladley, 3 

>  mherst, 4 

Belchertown, 7  . 

Ware, 6 

Western, 8 

Brookfield, 6 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 11 

Worcester 6 

Framingham, 10 

Boston, 21—134 

The  Shaker  Village,  a  few  miles  from  the  Springs,  is 
an  object  of  attention  to  most  visiters.  The  village  itself 
presents  a  scene  of  great  neatness  and  beauty,  as  it  is 
situated  on  a  beautiful  leve*,  and  laid  out  with  the  utmost 
regularity.  The  fields  %ri  divided  by  right  lines,  fenced 
with  the  most  substantial  materials,  and  cultivated  with 
great  faithfulness  and  skill.  It  is  a  leading  principle  with 
the  society,  to  allow  of  no  private  <Toperty  :  all  the  pos- 
sessions of  those  ivho  join  them  aj^?  thrown  into  the 
common  stock,  and  submitted  at  once  to  their  peculiar 
system  of  life  and  government.  Celibacy  they  insist  upon 
as  indispensable  \  and  they  profess  to  banish  the  love  of 
wealth  and  ambition,  as  well  as  luxury  in  all  its  degrees, 
from  their  territories. 

So  much  has  been  lately  published  on  their  peculiar 
doctrines,  that  few  words  need  to  be  said  here  on  the 
subject.  Not  that  their  principles  are  very  perfectly  un- 
derstood by  the  public  ;  on  the  contrary,  few  indeed  can 
be  said  to  comprehend  them,  even  among  the  society  itself. 
It  may,  in  fact,  be  doubted,  whether  two  persons  could  be 
found  who  would  give  the  same  representation  of  the  sub- 
ject. 

The  founder  of  their  sect  tvas  Ann  Lee,  who  came  from 
England  some  years  ago,  and  established  a  small  **  family," 
as  they  call  it,  which  has  been  succeeded  -by  various  simi- 
lar institutions  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  They 
regard  that  woman  as  nearly  equal  to  the  Saviour  of  the 
world ;  and  themselves  as  the  only  persons  who  have  re- 


commauds  tlie  finest  view  in  this  part  of  the  coimtrv,  and  is 
easily  accessible.    (See  Index.) 


4B 


TH£  NORTHERN 


ceired  that  spiritual  light  which  is  necesNory  to  iindcrstanil 
and  practice  the  duty  of  man,  which  is,  to  renounce  the 
pleasures  of  the  world,  and,  by  a  life  of  self  denial,  pre- 
sent a  living  testimony  against  error  and  wickedness. 
Their  dress  is  plain,  and  their  worship  consists  principally 
in  a  strange  and  disagreeable  kind  of  dancing,  whence 
they  have  their  name,  accompanied  with  a  monotonous 
song. 

Some  of  their  most  experienced  and  perfect  members, 
pretend  to  ''  speak  with  tongues,"  heal  diseases  with  a 
touch  of  the  hand,  and  perform  other  miracles  like  the 
apostles.  They  are  generally  supplied  with  members  in 
the  children  of  poor  parents,  or  the  parents  themselves, 
who  may  be  desirous  of  securing  a  comfortable  living,  and 
are  not  scrupulous  in  breaking  the  bonds  of  nature,  by 
considering  relationship  as  well  as  matrimonial  union  dis- 
solved :  which  the  rules  of  the  society  strictly  demand. 
Occasionally,  however,  they  receive  more  lucrative  addi- 
tions from  an  individual  or  family  of  wealth. 

They  pay  great  attention  to  the  raising  of  garden  seeds 
in  most  of  their  villages,  as  well  as  to  several  of  the  neater 
branches  of  manufacture,  and  derive  from  both  a  very 
handsome  income,  by  making  sales  at  home  and  in  distant 
parts  of  the  country.  Whoever  has  an  opportunity  to  see 
this  singular  people,  will  probably  feel  gratified  with  their 
neatness,  industry,  and  economy,  but  will  perhaps  leave 
the  place  with  pity  for  some,  and  suspicion  of  others.  « 

Geology,  The  tract  of  country  between  New  Leba- 
non and  Albany  is  transition.  Bluish  gray  transition  lime 
stone,  with  veins  of  calcareous  spar,  abounds  here  in  stra- 
ta on  a  great  scale,  with  a  considerable  inclination.  It  is 
compact,  with  a  slaty  structure*  Grawacke  abounds  at 
intervals ;  also  transition  slate,  and  a  fine  red  sand  stone. 
At  Greenbush  is  a  bed  of  uninflammable  fossil  coal,  or 
anthrocite. 

Road  from  Lebanon  to  Albany. 

Nassau, 8 miles;  Greenbush  16;  Albany  1. 

The  Albany  Basin.  The  northern  and  western  canals 
unite  at  the  distance  of  8^  miles  from  Albany,  and  ter- 
minate here.  To  afford  room  for  boats  to  lie  while  dis- 
charging or  receiving  their  cargoes,  a  lai^e  basin  has  been 
Tjtiilt  in  the  Hudson,  which  extends  more  than  half  the 


THAVELLER. 


crstanil 
nee  the 
al,  pre- 
edness. 
icipally 
whence 
Dtonous 

embers, 
with  a 
like  the 
ibers  in 
nselves, 
ing,  and 
ture,  by 
lion  dis- 
lemand. 
re  addi- 

isn  seeds 
e  neater 

a  Tcry 
I  distant 
ty  to  see 
itb  their 
)s  leave 
ers.  « 

Leba- 
ion  lime 

in  stra- 
n.  It  is 
mnds  at 
stone. 

coal,  or 


4d 


n  canals 
ind  ter- 
hile  dis- 
las  been 
half  the 


length  of  the  cily,  and  is  one  of  the  greatest  works  con- 
nected with  the  canal.  It  is  4000  feet  long,  and  has  two 
or  three  handsome  bridges,  one  with  a  draw  to  allow  a  pas- 
sage for  sloops.  It  leadft  from  the  foot  of  State-street.  The 
pier  which  encloses  the  basin  on  the  river  side,  is  built  of 
logs,  and  wide  enough  for  a  spacious  street.  It  is  a  place 
of  deposit  for  vast  quantities  of  lumber. 

In  1825,  there  were  9r>94  arrivals  and  departures  of 
canal  boats  at  Albany,  with  165,000  barrels  of  flour,  and 
near  16  million  feet  of  plank  and  boards.  23,292  tons  of 
merchandise  also,  went  north  and  west.     (See  page  56.) 

The  size  of  this  ba.«!:i,  may  afford  the  stranger  some 
idea  of  the  extent  of  thf  benefits  expected  from  the  canal ; 
and  probably  he  will  find  cause  to  think  them  not  over- 
rated, when  he  observes  the  number,  size,  and  lading  of 
the  boats  which  already  avail  themselves  of  the  conve- 
nience and  security  of  this  construction.  Here  the  tra- 
veller gets  the  first  view  of  objects  with  which  he  is  after- 
wards to  become  familiar ;  and  if  he  is  travelling  this  way 
for  the  first  time  in  a  few  years,  be  must  look  with  sur- 
prise upon  the  crowd  of  boats,  and  the  bustle  of  industry. 
He  may  look  upon  them  also  with  additional  interest ;  for 
they  will  be  hereafter  presented  to  his  view  in  many  vary- 
ing forms,  though  still  preserving  the  characteristic  aspect 
and  impression,  which  di&tingubh  the  whole  line  of  inter- 
nal improvements,  to  its  very  termination. 

The  route  to  Schenectady,  by  the  canal,  although  so 
much  longer  than  the  stage  road,  and  so  much  obstructed 
by  frequent  locks,  is  highly  worthy  of  the  traveller's  at- 
tention, either  in  going  or  in  returning ;  for  it  will  afford 
him  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  junction  of  the  two 
canals,  the  Cohoes  Falls  on  the  Mohawk,  the  locks  by 
which  the  rise  of  land  is  artificially  surmounted,  the  aque- 
ducts which  bear  the  canal  twice  across  the  river,  the 
Wat  Hoix  Rapid,  and  the  gap  through  which  the  canal 
passes ;  the  scenery  at  Alexander's  Bridge,  &c.  The  packet 
boats  used  to  leave  Albany  for  Schenectady  every  day  ;  if 
they  should  have  ceased  running,  travellers  may  find  very 
good  accommodations  in  the  boats  of  the  Ontario  and 
Erie  Transportation  Company,  which  are  all  fitted  up  for 
passengers,  and  carry  them  at  more  moderate  prices. 
Other  boats  of  various  descriptions  go  every  day  in  the 
same  direction. 


:^ 


THE  NORTHEIIN 


ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  NIAGARA. 


The  boats  start  from  the  commencement  ot  the  canal, 
-which  is  at  the  north  end  of  Albany ;  so  that  a  carriage 
-will  be  necessary  for  the  traveller  and  his  luggage. 

Boats  run  with  great  eiactncss  from  Albany  to  Roches- 
ter in  five  days. 

Description  of  a  Canal  Packet  Bool.— The  length  is  60 
or  ^0  feet,  a  large  part  of  which  is  devoted  to  the  dining 
room,  where  two  rows  of  tablen  are  set.  At  night,  mnt- 
triesses  are  spread  on  the  seats  each  side,  and  another  row 
above  them  pn  cots  suspended  from  the  roof.  The  ladies 
are  accommodated  with  births  in  the  cabin,  which  is 
usually  caroeted,  hung  with  curtains,  and  in  other  re^pectn 
more  handsomely  furnished.  The  |citchen  and  bar  are 
conveniently  situated ;  and  the  tables  are  spread  with  an 
abundance,  and  often  a  delicacy,  which  may  well  surprise 
those  not  accustomed  to  the  cheapness  of  travelling  in 
this  part  of  the  country. 

A  small  library,  a  number  of  newspapers,  &c.  will  serve 
to  make  the  time  pass  agreeably,  even  if  the  traveller  be 
a  stranger,  or  the  weather  not  inviting.  In  many  places, 
the  view  (Vom  the  deck  is  highly  interesting  )  but  it  can- 
not be  too  often  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  beware 
of  standing  on  deck  when  approaching  a  bridge,  and 
never  to  expose  the  head  or  hands  out  of  a  window. 

Rbnsselaerwtcr, 

A  fine  estate  ivith  its  respectable  old  mansion  house, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  worthy  of 
particular  observation,  as  the  seat  of  the  Honourable 
StephjEm  Van  Rensselaer ;  who  bears  the  respected  old 
Dutch  title  of  Patroon  of  Albany.  The  estate  is  of  im- 
mense value,  extending  ten  miles  along  the  river,  and 
double  that  dbtance  east  and  west ;  while  he  possesses 
besides,  a  fine  tract  on  the  Black  River,  &c.  It  was  for* 
merly  entailed,  and  secured  by  law  to  the  oldest  son  of 
the  family ;  but  on  the  death  of  the  present  proprietor  it 
is  to  be  divided  equally  among  all  the  children.  The  cha- 
racter of  Gen.  V.  R.  is  too  estimable  and  influential  to 
allovr  his  name  to  be  passed  over  in  silence,  even  in  a 
ivork  like  the  present  little  volume.  He  has  been  a 
powerful  patron>  for  many  years,  of  all  plans  for  the  pub- 


a. 


JTtfcA 


!\ 

\ 
I 

•■■'S 


^    Schenect^55^^. 


JuncUof^ 
8^ 


^- 


j±i  ,'cnali 


TY-oy 


[A  I,  B^A  TM  X         CP 

Nornuzfi 


•.%, 


\ 


It 


t^ 


Jtooher 


■'*ni 


iic  beni 
friends 
of  h»  fa 

Stat 
vantagei 
the  vici 
afibrdinj 
arms  an 
under  tt 

Theg 
road  ne 
where  ai 
protect 
Strangei 
the  offici 


\ 


princi[ 
the  remt 
arms.  ' 
tended  f 
received 
disposed 
in  boxes, 
in  comp: 
forroidab 
those  in  i 
swords  y 
on  wire  1 
vices  fori 

Theut 
boxes  am 
stair  case 
are  a  fen 
shells,  &( 

In  the 
north  is  c 
inanufact 
employed 
the  soutl 
Behind  tl 
kitchen  gi 

The  mi 
costs  froi 
^re  oxvdi 


TRAVELLEK. 


iic  benefit,  aud  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  efl&eient 
friends  of  the  Erie  Canal,  which  terminates  within  viei^ 
of  his  house. 

Statb  Arsenal,  5|  miles,  at  Gibbonsville.  The  ad- 
vantages of  this  situation  will  be  imn^ediately  percei?ed : 
the  vicinity  to  the  Hudson,  the  road,  and  the  canal, 
affording  every  convenience  for  the  transportaticn  of 
arms  and  ammunition.  This  depository  of  arms,  &c.  is 
under  the  charge  of  Msyor  Hoops. 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  arsenal  eitends  from  the 
road  near  the  river,  back  to  the  tow  path  of  the  canal, 
where  are  two  gun  houses,  with  low  projecting  roofs  to 
protect  the  carriages  from  exposure  to  the  weather. 
Strangers  may  easily  gain  access  by  mere  application  at 
the  officers*  quarters.  These  are  in  the  south  wing  of  the 
principal  building,  which  faces  the  road  and  the  river  ;  and 
the  remainder  of  which  is  occupied  for  the  storing  of 
arms.  The  lower  floor  is  devoted  to  such  arms  as  are  in- 
tended for  the  supply  of  the  military  posts,  or  have  been 
received  for  repairing.  The  arms  in  the  second  loft  are 
disposed  with  more  taste.  The  muskets  are  partly  packed 
in  boxes,  and  partly  ranged  upright,  with  fixed  baiyonets, 
in  compact  order;  and  present  an  appearance  truly 
formidable.  Thousands  of  pistols  are  hung  over  head ; 
those  in  the  alternate  lines  standing  different  ways  ;  and 
swords  with  metallic  scabbards  are  disposed  horizontally 
on  wire  hooks.  The  walls  are  ornamented  by  several  de- 
vices formed  of  swords,  pistols,  &c.  ingeniously  arranged. 

The  upper  loft  contains  only  knapsacks,  belts,  cartridge 
boxes  and  other  leathern  articles ;  while  the  passc^es  and 
stair  cases  are  bung  with  drums. — On  the  ground  floor 
are  a  few  pieces  of  artillery,  and  various  sizes  of  shot, 
shells,  &c.  &c. 

In  the  yard  are  two  ranges  of  buildings.  That  on  the 
north  is  devoted  to  work  shops  for  the  repair  of  arms, 
manufacturing  Jocks,  &c.  about  30  men  being  usually 
employed,  most  of  whom  are  enlisted.  The  buildings  on 
the  south  side  are  decupled  by  smiths  and  carpenters. 
Behind  these  is  a  handsome  flower  and  fruit  garden  ;  the 
kitchen  garden  berng  on  the  north  side  of  the  grounds. 

The  muskets  are  repaired  about  once  in  a  year  ;  which 
costs  from  50  cents  to  $1  50  or  $2  each.  The  barrels 
ire  oxydized  to  prevent  rusting.    The  muskets  weigh  a 


5& 


THE  NORTHERN 


little  more  than  10  pounds,  and  the  parts  are  intended  to 
correspond  as  nearly  as  can  easily  be  done. 

In  the  yard  are  a  number  of  cannon,  &c.  There  are  4 
medium  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer,  all  taken 
at  Saratoga ;  4  medium  12  pounders  and  one  howitzer, 
taken  at  Yorktown ;  two  long  antique  pieces  and  one  S 
inch  mortar,  taken  at  Stony  Point ;  two  old  French  4 
pounders  and  14  guns,sent  by  King  Louis  to  the  Continental 
Congress  in  the  revolution.  These  are  all  of  brass,  and 
most  of  them  highly  ornamented.  The  French  guns  pre- 
sented by  the  king,  bear  each  an  individual  name  forward, 
and  the  inscription  "  Ultima  ratio  regtim^* — (the  last  argu- 
ment  of  kings.)  The  English  guns  have  the  royal  arms 
near  the  breech,  and  those  of  the  officer  of  the  foundry 
department  fonvard.  ; 

There  are  also  three  or  four  howitzers  cast  in  New- 
York  and  Philadelphia  in  the  revolution,  some  of  the 
oldest  specimens  of  such  manufacture  in  this  country. 
They  bear  the  letters  U.  C.  for  United  Colonies, 

'    '  TROY, 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  a  very  handsome 
town,  with  fine  hills  in  the  rear,  the  most  prominent  of 
which  has  received  the  name  of  Mount  Ida,  to  correspond 
with  the  classic  appellation  of  the  place.  There  is  a  good 
horse  ferry,  which  helps  to  render  the  town  a  great  tho* 
ronghfare  during  the  travelling  season.  The  Dam  and  Basiit 
at  Troy  form  a  great  and  expensive  work,  and  promise 
great  benefit  to  the  place,  by  diverting  a  part  of  the  busi- 
ness of  the  canal. 

The  road  to  New  Lebanon  is  a  very  good  and  very 
pleasant  one.  The  distance  is  27  miles.  The  Lrst  mile  or 
two  is  through  a  wild,  broken  piece  of  country,  with  some 
striking  scenes. 

Sandy  Lake  is  10  miles  on  this  road,  Nassau  8  more, 
village  of  New  Lebanon  12  further,  and  Lebanon  Springs 
2  more. 

On  Mount  Ida,  the  hill  east  of  Troy,  is  a  fine  succession 
of  water  falls,  on  a  stream  which  haa  cut  its  way  ^"  some 
places  to  a  great  depth,  and  takes  three  or  four  ^'^t  (.'en* 
dicular  leaps  at  short  intervals  of  only  a  few  yards.  Tbu 
road  to  New  Lebanon  Springs  leads  near  the  place,  which 
is  worthy  of    attention  for  its    picturesque   charactev 


TRAVELLER. 


53 


nded  tu 

re  are  4 
U  taken 
iwitzer, 
id  one  S 
rench  4 
itinental 
as»,  and     [ 
;un9  pre- 
forward, 
ast  argu- 
yal  arms 
foundry 


in  New-    , 

m  of  the    j 

country.    ' 

I 

bandsomc 
minent  of 
orrespond 
is  a  good 
reat  tho* 
and  Basin 
promise 
the  busi- 

and  very 
rst  mile  or 
with  some 

u  8  more, 
m  Springs 

succession 
ty  »n  some 


a  I 


;en- 


■ir  f 
rds.    The 
ace,  which 
charactev 


There  are  several  mills  of  different  descriptionsi  and  a 
cotton  manufactory  on  the  same  stream. 

Mount  Ida.  Tbe  view  from  the  top  of  this  hill,  and 
still  more  from  the  mountain  behind  it,  is  very  extensive 
and  beautiful.  It  embraces  the  course  of  the  Hudson  for 
a  considerable  distance  up  and  down ;  with  the  courses  of 
the  two  canals,  before  and  after  their  junction  ;  together 
with  many  of  the  objects  already  spoken  of ;  particularly 
the  range  of  the  distant  Catskill  Mountains,  which  pre- 
sent a  boundary  to  the  scene  in  the  south* west. 

A  canal  route  has  been  surveyed  by  the  state  of 
Massachusetts,  from  Boston  to  Troy.  From  Troy  to 
Connecticut  River,  78  miles  of  canal  would  cost  3  mil- 
lions of  dollars,  with  a  tunnel  of  4  miles  through  Hoosac. 
Mountain,  Locks^e  61  i  feet. 

At  the  Van  Rens3elaer  School^  the  students  deliver  lec- 
tures by  turns,  on  the  branches  of  study  to  which  they 
are  devoted  ;  and  during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year, 
they  devote  much  time  to  making  personal  observations 
on  farming,  the  botany  of  the  neighbourhood,  &c.  Board- 
«jg  costs  about  $1  50  per  week,  and  no  charge  is  made  for 
room  rent,  use  of  the  library,  apparatus,  &c. 

Miss  WUlartPs  Academy,  for  young  ladies,  is  also  a  very 
respectable  establishment. 

The  Flour  Millf  south  of  the  town,  can  grind  2000 
bushels  of  wheat  in  a  day,  and  1500  with  ease. 

The  .\*at7  and  Spike  Manufactoryt  makes  of  red  hot  iron, 
every  thing  from  a  shingle  nail  to  a  ship  spike. 

:  -c    ■' 

Htdrostatic  Lock.  ^^ 

In  order  to  prevent  fraud  in  the  collection  of  toll, 
three  of  these  works  have  been  constructed : — one  at 
Troy,  one  at  Utica,  and  one  at  Syracuse.  They  are 
commonly  called  weigk-locks.  The  following  minute  ac- 
count of  them  may  be  interesting  to  those  who  have  never 
seen  them. 

"  These  hydrostatic  locks  are  constructed  with  a  cham- 
ber sufficiently  large  to  receive  any  boat  used  on  the  canal. 
The  chamber  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  canal,  and  is 
filled  from  it  by  a  paddle  gate  which  is  fixed  in  a  large 
?atp.    On  a  level  below  the  chamber,  is  a  receptacle,  into 

F 


61 


THE  NO&TUBRN 


whiob,  by  a  gate,  the  chamber  oaii  be  6tnptied ;  and 
from  this,  through  anoiher  gate,  the  , water  can  be  db* 
charged.  The  gates  are  made  as  accurately  as  possible,  to 
prevent  leakage ;  and  althoii|^  they  cannot  be  mide  per- 
feetty  tight^  yet  if  they  are  e^iaally  so,  the  result  will  be 
equally  con^nsated  by  the  g^  at  the  other* 

'*  When  it  is  designed  to  ascertain  the  weight  of  a 
loaded  boat,  the  chamber  is  first  filled  by  the  opening  of 
the  paddle  gate,  after  which  the  large  gate  is  opeuedi  fhe 
boat  is  removed  from  the  canal  into  the  ^haiiiber,  and  the 
gates  close  behind  it  The  depth  of  the  water  in  the 
chambef  is  then  carefully  ascertained  by  a  tnetallic  rod, 
graduated  idto  feet,  tenths,  and  hundredths  ef  it  foot ;  and 
the  cubic  contents  of  the  water,  With  the  beat  Heating  in 
it,  are  at  once  obtained  from  a  table  constructed  (br  the 
purpose,  and  adapted  to  the  graduations  of  the  rod. 

**  Supfiose  the  column  of  ^ater  in  the  look  in  which  the 
boat  is  afloat,  is  85  feet  long,  15  wide,  and  4  feet  deep ; 
then  by  miUtiplying  the  length,  width,  and  depth  of  this 
column  into  eieich  other,  its  contents  in  cubic  leet  are  eb* 
tained.  Thus,  85  X 1 6  X 4=5100  cubic  feet  of  water,  in- 
cluding what  is  called  the  flotation  bulk  of  the  boat,  or  in 
other  words,  induding  the  contents  of  the  volume  of 
water  displaced  by  the  boat.  The  water  is  then  drawn 
off'  into  the  receptacle,  and  the  boat  settles  down  upon 
timbers,  so  arranged  as  to  yield  to  its  shape,  by  which  it 
is  suppo^d,  without  being  strained  or  injured.  The 
quantity  of  water  drawn  from  the  lock  i«  then  ascertained 
by  the  graduated  rod.  Suppose  the  water  in  the  recep- 
tacle measures  30  feet  long,  25  feet  wide,  and  5  feet  deep : 
these  multiplied  into  each  other  as  before,  will  produce 
3750  cubic  feet.  It  is  a  principle  in  hydrostatics,  that 
every  body  which  floats  in  water,  displaces  a  volume  of 
thu  fluid,  precuely  equal  in  weight  to  the  floating  body. 
it  appears  from  the  above,  that  the  water,  with  the  loaded 
boat  floating  in  it,  contained  5100  cubic  feet,  and  that 
the  same  water,  drawn  off*  and  measured  sepfarately,  con- 
tained 3750  cubic  feet,  which  subtracted  from  the  prece- 
ding, will  give  1350  cubic  (bet  of  water  displaced  by  the 
loaded  boat.  And  as  a  cubic  foot  of  fresh  water  weighs 
1000  ounces  avoirdupois,  or  621  pounds,  it  follows  that 
1350X62^=84375:  the  weight  of  the  loaded  boat. 
This  is  to  be  reduced  to  tons,  and  the  weight  of  the 


4 
■■■>i 


KTBAVQ.LER. 


*» 


empty  boat,  pretiously  ascertained  in  the  saqie  manner,  is 
to  be  deducted,  and  the  remainder  will  be  the  weight  of 
the  cargo.  After  an  empty  boat  has  been  o^it  weighed, 
she  is  numbered,  and  her  weight  is  registered  at  the  seve- 
ral  hydrostatic  locks.*' 

As  I  suppose  the  traveller  personalljriinacquainted  with 
this  part  of  the  country,  I  ma^  call  his  attention  both  to 
the  advantages  and  the  dieadvantages  of  the  mode  of 
travelling'  The  opportunity  for  looking  around  on  every 
side  is  much  better  enjoyed  in  a  canal  boat  than  in  a  stage 
eoacb,  or  even  a  private  carriage,  i^though  it  sometime) 
happens,  that  the  road  commands  more  extensive  views 
than  the  canal.  The  immediate  scene  from  the  latter, 
however,  will  usually  be  found  the  most  agreeable  ;  for  a 
anootfa  sheet  of  water,  with  level  and  often  grassy  hanks, 
is  a  more  pleasant  sight  than  a  long  stretch  of  a  muddy 
or  sandy  highway.  Besides  it  is  always  free  from  the 
inconveniences  of  dust,  whiCk  frequentty  render  the  roads 
in  this  part  of  the  country  e^Ktremely  uncomfortable. 

The  Dovblb  Locks.  The  two  locks  which  occur  just 
below  the  junction  of  the  northern  and  western  cantls* 
were  doubled  in  1825,  to  furnish  room  for  the  boats, 
which  pass  here  in  great  numbers.  They  are  built  pf 
marble  iVom  Westchester  county.  . !, 

The  Jkmclicnt  8i  miles  from  Albany,  is  where  the  North* 
em  and  Western  Canals  meet  and  unite.  To  this  spot 
the  canal  has  been  of  a  greater  width  than  either  pf  the 
branches  will  be  found  to  be.  The  Northern  Canal  runs 
to  Whitehall,  Lake  Champlun,  with  locks,  a  distance  of 
03§  miles,  passing  through  Waterford,  Half-moon,  Still- 
water, near  Bemis's  Heights,  (14  miles  from  Waterford,) 
with  the  battle  grounds  of  General  Bui^oyne,  Fort  Hardy, 
where  he  surrendered.  Fort  Miller,  Fort  Edward,  and  Fort 
Anne. 

The  Erie  or  Western  Canal  now  reaches  to  Buffalo,  on 
Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  362  miles.  It  has  83  locks, 
which  raise  and  lower  the  water  6SS  feet  in  all.  The 
principal  points  where  the  most  labour  and  expense  have 
been  required,  are  the  following : 

The  Basin  at  Albany, — the  Dam  and  Basin  at  Troy, — 
the  Locks  at  the  Cohoes  Falls, — the  two  Aqueducts  on 
which  the  canal  twice  crosses  the  Mohawk, — the  long 
Stone  Wall  and  Locks  st  Little  Falls,  together  viiih  the 


'i^ 


56 


THE  NORTHERN 


S  5- 


beautiful  Aqueduct  for  the  Feeder  at  that  place, — the 
long  stretch  through  the  Onondaga  Swamp, — the  great 
Embankment  at  Monroe,  where  for  two  miles  the  boats 
pass  72  feet  above  the  level, — the  Aqueduct  over  the  Ge- 
nesee at  Rochester, — the  5  double  combined  Locks  at 
Lockport,  and  the  long  Pier  at  Black  Rock. 

The  principal  natural  objects  within  its  neighbourhood, 
worthy  of  the  traveller's  attention,  are  the  following^: 

The  Gohoes  Falls,->Little  Falls,— the  Falls  of  Trenton, 
14  miles  north-east  of  Utica, — the  Lakes  of  Oneida,  Sa- 
Hna,  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and  Canandaigua ;  the 
three  Falls  of  the  Genesee  River  at  Rochester  and  Car- 
thage  ;  Niagara,  and  the  Lakec  of  Ontario  and  Erie. 

In  the  unfinished  state  of  the  canals,  the  amount  of 
tolls  was,  in  1822,  $64,071  83 ;  in  1823,  $151,099  46 ;  in 
1824,  $289,320  8;  1825,  estimated  at  $500,000.  The 
canal  was  completed  in  1825  ;  and  it  was  estimated  that 
on  the  first  of  Jan.  1826,  the  canal  debt  amounted  to 
$7,602,092.  The  interest  on  this  will  be  $410,000,  and 
$100,000  is  estimated  to  be  requisite  for  repairs  and  su- 
perintendence, annually.  For  the  first  ten  years  the  canal 
tolls  are  estimated  to  average  $700,000;  the  auction 
duties  belonging  to  the  canal  fund,  $250,000,  and  the  salt 
duties  $170,000.  The  income  from  the  tolls  and  funds  of 
the  canals  will  thus  yield  an  annual  surplus  revenue  of 
$610,000  to  be  applied  to  the  reduction  of  the  canal  debt, 
which  it  is  estimated  will  be  paid  ofi"  in  10  years. 

At  the  9  Locks,  the  road  to  Waterford  leaves  the  Erie 
Canal  on  the  west,  and  the  Champlain  Canal  on  the  es^t ; 
and  in  a  short  distance  crosses  the  Mohawk  River  betow 
the  Cohoes  Falls  ;  which  are  to  be  immediately  described. 
There  is  a  very  fine  view  of  the  locks,  the  river,  and  the 
falls,  from  the  road  which  runs  along  the  south  bank  of 
the  river,  140  feet  high,  between  it  and  the  canal.  The 
stage  coaches  for  the  Springs  through  Clifilon  Park,  stop 
at  about  a  mile  distance,  where  the  canal  boat  awaits 
them ;  and  those  who  are  going  on  the  road  to  Waterford, 
would  find  it  worth  a  little  time  to  turn  ofi*  about  a  mile 
in  that  direction  and  return. 

(The  book  will  now  follow  the  great  route,  westward, 
to  Niagara.    For  the  road  to  the  Springs,  see  Waterfcrd, 


TRAVELLEIjl. 


m 


,— the 
!  great 
9  boats 
he  Ge> 
»ck8  at 

irhood, 

renton, 
ida,  Sa- 
la;  the 
id  Car- 
irie. 

lount  of 
»46;  in 
).  The 
ited  that 
Anted  to 
DOO,  and 

and  8U- 
the  canal 

auction 
|l  the  salt 

funds  of 
▼enue  of 
nal  debt, 

the  Erie 
the  east ; 
rer  below 
escribed. 
,  and  the 
bank  of 
jal.  The 
•ark,  stop 
ait  awaits 
^aterford, 
[>ut  a  mile 

nrestward, 
Vaterfwd, 


#1 
I 


i 


1 


GOHOES  FALLS. 

This  is  the  great  Cataract  of  the  Mohawk  River r  The 
height  of  the  fall  is  78  feet.  The  banks  are  mere  walls 
of  stratified  rock,  rough,  and  sometimes  hollowed  out  be- 
neath, rising  about  140  feet  above  the  river  for  a  gre%t 
distance  below  the  falls.  At  first  view  the  cataract  ap- 
pears almost  as  regular  as  a  mill-dam  ;  but  on  a  nearer  ap- 
proach, the  ledge  of  rocks  over  which  the  water  is  nreci- 
pitated,  is  found  extremely  irregular  and  broken.  Many 
fine  fish  are  caught  at  the  bottom. 

The  Lower  ^gueductf  21  miles.  On  account  of  the  dif- 
ficulty of  cutting  the  canal  along  this  side  of  the  river, 
above  this  place,  it  was  found  easier  to  carry  it  over,  as 
there  is  a  natural  channel  on  the  other  side,  which  will  be 
seen  with  surprise.  This  aqueduct  is  1188  feet  long,  and 
rests  on  26  stone  piers  and  abutments. 

Wat  Hoix  Gapf  21  miles — the  channel  above-men- 
tioned. 

Upper  Jiqueductf  9i  miles — 748  feet  long,  and  rests  on 
16  piers.    The  scene  at  Jllexander^s  Bridge  is  very  fine. 

ScHENCCTADT  is  oue  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the 
state,  having  been  occupied  as  a  little  frontier  fortress 
before  the  year  1665,  when  it  was  attacked  by  a  party  of 
French  and  Indians  from  Canada,  and  burnt,  and  many  of 
the  inhabitants  murdered.  This  party  was  designed 
s^inst  the  Five  Nations ;  but  being  much  worn  down  with 
travelling  in  the  winter,  they  fell  on  Schenectady. 

The  town  was  remarkable,  until  within  a  very  few 
years,  for  the  antique  and  foreign  aspect  of  its  buildings, 
and  the  inconvenience  of  its  streets,  having  retained  in  a 
singular  degree  the  Dutch  fashions  in  architecture,  &c. 

Union  College  is  conspicuously  situated  a  little  out 
of  town.  Two  large  stone  buildings  have  been  erected 
several  years,  but  the  original  plan,  which  was  quite  ex- 
tensive, has  never  been  completed.  Dr.  Nottis  president 
of  this  highly  respectable  institution,  which  contained,  in 
1825,  234  students. 

F2 


5S 


THE  NORTHERN 


FROM   SCHBNBCTADT   TO   VTICA. 

By  the  Canal,  79|  miles.* 

Rotterdam  Flats  3  miles. 

Flint  HiU  8 

/  Fort  Hunter  10 

North  of  the  canal,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk, 
is  the  place  where  this  little  fort  formerly  stood.  Like 
most  of  the  places  of  defence  built  in  this  state  during  the 
revolution  and  the  French  wars,  it  was  small,  and  fitted 
only  for  resisting  such  little  bands  of  enemies  as  used  to 
approach  the  settlements  on  this  side.  The  only  fortress 
of  consequence  which  ever  existed  in  any  part  of  the 
state  (except  that  of  Oswego,)  was  Fort  Stanwix,  of 
which  particular  mention  will  be  made  on  reaching  Rome. 

Near  this  place  is  the  site  of  an  old  fort  of  the  Mohawk 
Indians ;  and  there  is  still  to  be  seen  a  chapel  built  by 
Qiieen  Anne,  near  the  beginning  of  the  last  century  for 
the  use  of  that  nation.  It  is  still  known  by  the  name  of 
^ueen  Anne's  ChapeU   . 

Schoharie  Creek.    1  mile.  .. 

Here  is  a  collection  of  several  very  interesting  works, 
formed  for  the  convenient  passage  of  boats  across  a  broad 
and  rapid  stream.  A  guard  lock  preserves  the  water  in 
the  canal  from  rising  or  falling,  and  the  current  of  the 
creek  is  set  back  by  a  dam  a  little  below,  nearly  to  the 
same  level.  The  dam  is  constructed  in  a  manner  best 
calculated  to  resist  the  pressure  of  the  current  in  floods, 
and  when  increased  by  the  ice.  It  has  a  broad  founda- 
tion and  a  narrow  top ;  and  it  is  built  so  as  to  present 
an  angle  against  the  middle  of  the  current.  An  inge- 
nious invention  has  been  devised  for  drawing  boats  across 
the  creek  by  machinery.  A  wheel  turned  by  a  horse 
moves  a  rope,  which  is  stretched  double  across,  and  is 
carried  round  a  wheel  on  the  other  side  :  a  line  attached 


*  By  the  road,  81  miles.   See  "Roadsy^*  at  the  end  of  the 
volume. 


HI 


V 


V. 


I 


TRAVELLEK. 


5» 


to  this  moves  the  boats  across,  they  being  kept  in  their 
course  by  another  line,  which  slides  upon  a  long  rope 
stretched  across  the  creek  oo  the  other  side  of  the  boats. 

Caughmawaga,  A\  miles. 

The  village  of  Johnatown  is  situated  at  the  distance  of 
4  miles  north  of  the  canal."' 


*  TVifte's  Hill  is  a  commanding  elevation  within  the  limits  of 
Johnstown.  It  was  formerly  the  place  of  the  council  fire  of 
the  Mohawk  Indians :  and  the  Germans  have  corrupted  its 
name  to  "  Tripes  Hill,"  by  which  it  is  commonly  known. 

At  Johnstown,  on  the  road^  are  two  fine  houses,  built  of  stone, 
standing  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  each  other.  They 
were  erected  by  Sir  William  Johnson  and  his  family,  as  this 
tract  of  country  was  his  residence,  and  formed  a  part  of 
his  vast  and  valuable  estate.  There  was  originally  a  third 
house,  similarly  built,  and  at  the  interval  of  another  mile  :  but 
this  was  consumed  bv  fire.  Col.  Guy  Johnson  and  Col. 
John  Johnson  (sons  of  Sir  William,)  inhabited  two  of  them 
until  the  revolutionary  war ;  when,  havin|^  attached  them- 
selves to  the  British  interest,  they  removed  mto  Canada,  and 
their  estates  were  confiscated.  Col.  John  afterwards  came 
down  with  a  party  of  French  and  Indians,  attacked  the  town 
and  made  prisoners  many  of  his  old  friends  and  neighbours. 

The  third  mansion  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  road,  and 
was 

'        The  residence  of  Sir  William  Johnson,         ^ 

for  several  of  the  last  years  of  his  life.  This  distinguished  man, 
who  maikes  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  the  history  of  the  state 
about  the  time  of  the  French  war,  was  bom  in  Ireland,  in  1714, 
and  in  1734  came  to  America,  at  the  solicitation  of  his  uncle, 
Sir  Peter  Warren,  who  had  acquired  a  large  estate  here 
through  his  wife.  Su>  William  became  well  acquainted  with  the 
Indian  language  and  manners,  and  acquired  a  greater  influence 
over  them  than  any  other  white  man  ever  possessed.  He  rose 
from  tibe  station  of  a  private  soldier  to  the  rank  of  a  General, 
and  commanded  at  lake  George  in  1755,  although,  as  will  here- 
after be  seen,  the  title  which  he  there  received,  was  really 
merited  by  Gen.  Lyman.  July  25, 1759,  he  took  Fort  Niagara, 
and  in  1769  went  to  join  Gen,  Amherst  at  Oswego,  and  assist- 


so 


THE  NORTHERN 


Anthony's  Nose^  7)  miles.  This  is  a  high  and  pro- 
minent hill,  rising  abruptly  on  the  southern  bank  of  the 
river.  On  the  top  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  which  extends 
downirards  to  a  great  depth,  with  several  apartments  of 
considerable  size.  This  scene  is  represented  in  one  of 
the  plates ;  but  the  view  is  taken  from  a  little  west  of  the 
bill.  The  spot  is  quite  picturesque,  and  presents  a  re- 
markable assemblage  of  interesting  objects :  the  Mohawk 
River,  winding  through  a  narrow  valley,  with  the  turnpike 
on  the  north  side,  the  canal  and  a  country  road  on  the 
south  ;  the  whole  enclosed  by  rough  and  elevated  hills. 

There  is  every  appearance  of  a  rent  in  the  hills  having 
been  made  by  a  strong  current  of  water ;  and  geologists 
consider  them  as  having  originallv  been  a  hairier  to  a 
great  lake,  which  was  thus  gradually  drained. 

Canajorarib  Creek  and  Village,  5  mUes.  Hence 
a  stage  coach  two  or  three  times  a  week  to  Cherry  Valley. 

Fort  Plain,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  small  village,  be- 
longing to  a  town  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  Ger- 
mans. It  occupies  the  site  of  Old  Fort  Plain.  The  Ger- 
man language,  much  corrupted,  is  spoken  here  by  every 
body. 

This  little  fort  was  surprised  by  captain  Butler  in  the 
revolutionary  war,  on  his  return  from  burning  Cherry 
Valley  ;  and  here  he  committed  similar  atrocities. 

Damon  the  River,  and  Feeder  for  tJie  Canal,  4  miles. 

The  Mouth  of  East  Canada  Creek,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Mohawk.     Near  that  place,  Capt.  Butler  met 

cd  in  the  capture  of  Montreal.  He  died  and  was  buried  at  his 
seat,  July  7,  1774,  at  the  a^e  of  60,  very  rich,  in  consequence 
of  the  increased  value  qf  his  extensive  estate  after  the  French 
war. 

This  building  was  erected  in  1773.  and  stands  nearly  a  mile 
westward  from  the  village.    It  is  called  the  Hall. 

The  Battle  of  Johnstown.  On  the  25th  of  October  1781, 
Col.  Willet,  with  400  white  men  and  60  of  the  Oneida  tribe, 
fought  600  English  and  Indians,  on  the  grounds  belonging  to 
the  mar:  ion.  The  loss  of  the  enemy  was  considerable,  and 
they  suttered  so  much  during  their  retreat,  that  on  their  arrival 
in  Canada  their  numbers  were  rcdnced  to  220. 


\ 


id  prO" 
of  the 
sxtends 
enta  of 
one  of 
t  of  the 
ts  a  re- 
lohawk 
urnpike 
I  on  the 
hills. 
I  having 
sologists 
ior  to  a 

Hence 
f  Valley, 
age,  be- 
I  of  Ger- 
rheGer- 
by  every 

cr  in  the 
5  Cherry 

{ miles. 

3  oppoAite 
Sutler  met 

iried  at  his 
jnsequence 
the  French     ^ 

sarlyamile 

tober  1781, 
neida  tribe, 
eloneing  to 
erable,  and 
heir  arrival 


m^ 


■ft 


f' 


?t 


.A 


I^V 


^\irf,:,,;, 


'-.'■^  I 


<  ^A-irji'l 


\ 


^.jommes 


m 


rii£  N^ 


r.HS 


...      i}^.r    „.'A\    JtfV- 

•ithern  bar»k  ai  Up 
•*f»rn,  which  exteiiti 

■itrntcd  in  one  of 

rbtle  west  of  titt* 

K'  present?  a  re- 

.  t-, :  the  Muhat*-';. 
v^'Ub  the  Inrnpfk- 
.i.<fy  road  or,  *.y 


..    .  Uif?,  riajiif^  ?.; 
<w«r.    On  tbo  top  v  > 
rioT/nwarch  to  a 

tht  plates;  but  ibv  ■■  -  -.^  r 
■jiilf.     The  '*pot  lis  aiji4«  pt'!-^■ 
jn»t'kJ*b»»-  auH?i'mbl3i;.i  .■■5'  kn^.r 

^Qftik  ;  ihc  wbok  cn«k«.?i^ii,  %y  rsffiugk  Atv  'vV-. rated  hills. 
■'fhi**!'*''  ;•'  p'yf-ry  s-p'  ■  ""f  ?^.  r^in  m  ihrt  hilU  h?ii,rtin - 

■'■<'-•'    ■.;«,«.';'•-  by  a  .'a"!.';  ,      •:       '  ".'"  wiitter  ■;  «5Kk.I  geolagisv 
■  •■  r  them  ft9  bcurr-.j!'    .,  ^    ■  'ij  been  a  bamer  to  t* 
gmiXi  Jake,  ivtsicb  was  ffe\i^  psjikjull?  '^I'^.ineol. 

...     ,    i  two  oi' liirec ■tim'';8  a  wcc^*  'm  Ch*t*fry  ''i-' alley- 
's-.,   i  mile?;.     Here  ii  a,  »mn\i  vtlMae,   f*c< 
'nbal>it©d  by  the  iie^ccntianta  c.f  <Qer- 
•^o  «it^  of  Old  Fort  Plain,     Th*j<:3er« 

'       ''r:;s^^d,  is  apufeevi  here  hy  every 


;^  bv  ea|!»laiT>  Battler  In  f  e 


■^  tht  €'tfS4l,     4  W 


y 


.  *«*.©*  CAr.£K,  on  t'he  f /:■,;;'..     ft 
sido  of  the  Mohnwk.     iS«.'gr  tin?? t  place,  Capt  B»j(  '       ,■    t 


^^  July  ?,  1774,  a!  th«  .  p 
n'creased  value  of  hx> 


.tf" 


Til'  ..VsiH?  ifiil  w&.«  barj 
lit',  \«:rY  ric/i,  itx'oui 


V,- 


Til' .  ?»*indl«g  wd*  ^r^i^tif'i^  5> 
W*-  '  irom  the  viUugT. 

'/Vk  iJdUf-  of  Joh'ii-dtn.f}n. 

6lK)  F.riili^bs  vtivl  Indian 


*.  t«».««ifV- 


in 


'  the  fUn.       ■ 

vh<-  \l.>(it  of  Octoln 

..  grovujds  Ku'Kji:^' 
f">y  ^Vds  considirab 


.  >M;ii»luriti<if  thtif  ivin-rtt,  that  ofi  tboir ., 
!l«?jr  anra^cr''  wprf  rrdacd  to  2'ii<^. 


at*)  of 
of  tlk«». 

5';Ua. 
sf   to  t* 

hy  CTcry 


y 


C) 


lift 


;\-\ 


^ 


■4 


^ 


> 


\erge 
seen, 
The  ro 
the  hes 
that 
This  a 
hills, 
of  wat 
throw 


TRAVELLER. 


a  violent  death,  soon  after  leaving  Fort  Plain,  on  bia 
way  back  to  Oneida  Lake  and  the  Oawego.  He  had 
crossed  the  river  somewhere  below,  and  while  lingering  a 
little  in  the  rear  of  his  troops,  was  overtaken  near  the 
mouth  of  the  creek,  by  two  Oneida  Indians,  in  friendship 
with  the  Americans.  Seeing  them  preparing  to  kill  him, 
he  beg8:ed  for  his  life  ;  but  they  only  replied  "  Sherry 
Valley  /"  and  tomahawked  him  on  the  spot. 

Mohawk  Castle,  2  miles.  This  was  the  principal 
defensive  position  of  that  famous  nation  of  Indians,  now 
entirely  scattered  and  lost.  As  the  nearest  to  the  Dutch 
settlements,  and  New  England,  they  were  long  regarded 
with  peculiar  solicitude,  and  frequently  with  great  dread. 
They  were  one  of  the  five  nations,  of  which  we  shall 
speak  more  particularly,  at  Oneida,  and  were  long  faithful 
and  serviceable  friends  to  the  white  men.  Here  is  an  eld 
chapel  erected  for  their  use. 

Palatine  Bridge.  A  little  ofi*  the  canal,  at  Palatine, 
is  a  school  for  the  education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb,  es- 
tablished under  the  patronage  of  the  state,  on  the  plan  of 
that  in  Hartford,  Connecticut.  It  is  the  central  school 
for  the  state  of  New- York. 

Gen.  Herkimer's  residence,  2  miles.  The  country 
hereabouts  presents  a  varied  surface,  and  increases  in  in- 
terest on  approaching  Little  Falls,  which  is  the  most  ro- 
mantic scene  on  the  rourse  of  the  Erie  Canal.  On  reach- 
ing a  little  meadow  surrounded  by  hills,  where  the  views 
open  upon  cultivated  fields  and  a  fetv  farm  houses,  the 
Mohawk  will  be  found  flowing  below,  on  the  right ;  while 
on  the  opposite  side,  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  and  on  the 
verge  of  the  forest  that  covers  them,  the  great  road  is 
seen,  ai'ter  having  been  lost  to  the  view  for  a  long  time. 
The  road,  the  river,  and  the  canal,  are  collected  again  at 
the  head  of  the  valley  ;  for  there  is  but  one  passage,  and 
that  so  narrow  as  hardly  to  afford  room  for  them  all. 
This  a  deep  cut  through  a  chain  of  limestone  and  granite 
hills,  doubtless  torn  away  in  some  former  age  by  the  force 
of  water.  If  the  chasm  were  again  filled  up  it  would 
throw  the  water  back,  aiid  form  an  immense  lake,  such  as 
is  supposed  to  have  once  existed  west  of  this  place,  and 
which,  by  overflowing  its  bounds,  in  process  of  time  wore 
away  the  limestone  strata,  and  cut  deep  into  the  hard 


62 


THE  NORTHERN 


granite,  until  a  mere  r^-^er  succeeded,  and  the  fine  allu« 
vial  plains  above,  cr*^  .  ihe  German  Flats,  were  left  dry. 
.  The  little  valley  orer  which  we  pass,  east  of  the  falu, 
was  therefore  of  a  more  recent  formation  than  these,  the 
soil  being  composed  of  the  particles  of  disintegrated  rock, 
deposited  by  the  water  when  it  reached  a  level  after  its 
rapid  descent.  The  stranger  should,  by  no  means,  neglect 
the  view  of  this  place.  If  he  reaches  it  early  or  late  in  a 
pleasant  day,  particularly  near  the  rising  of  the  sun,  the 
beauty  of  the  scene  will  be  redoubled.  On  the  north 
bank  of  the  river,  the  road  climbs  along  the  side  of  the 
rocks,  where  there  is  barely  room  for  its  passage.  A 
great  part  of  the  way  it  is  almost  overhung  by  rocks  and 
trees  on  one  side,  while  on  the  other  is  a  precipice  of 
granite,  cut  down  by  the  force  of  water  in  perpendieular 
shafts,  originally  formed  by  drills,  made  by  loose  stones 
whirled  round  by  the  current.  The  same  appearance 
extends  to  the  islands  and  rocks  in  the  channels,  many  of 
which  appear  quite  inaccessible,  with  tl^eir  ragged  and 
peipendicular  sides,  overhung  by  dark  evergreens,  whose 
shade  seems  the  more  intense  from  its  contrast  with  the 
white  rapids  and  cascades  below. 

In  some  places  the  road  is  protected  by  immense  natu- 
ral battlements,  formed  of  massy  rock,  which  have  been 
loosened  from  above,  and  planted  themselves  on  the  brow 
of  the  precipice. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  river  runs  the  canal,  supported 
by  a  wall  20  or  30  feet  high,  constructed  at  great  expense, 
and  rising  from  the  very  channel  of  the  Mohawk.  The 
wildness  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  contrasts  no  less 
with  the  artificial  beauty  of  this  noble  work,  than  the 
violence  and  tumult  of  the  Mohawk,  with  the  placid  and 
silent  surface  of  the  canal,  or  the  calmness  and  security 
with  which  the  boats  glide  along  the  side  of  the  moun* 
tains. 

^  The  traveller  may  step  on  shore  at  the  two  locks,  and 
walk  along  the  tow  path,  as  there  are  five  more  locks  a 
mile  above.  If  he  wishes  to  stop  a  few  hours  to  view  the 
scene  more  at  leisure,  the  village  of  Little  Falls  is  only 
half  a  mile  from  that  place,  where  is  a  large  and  com- 
fortable inn,  with  canal  boats  and  stage  coaches  passing; 
very  frequently.    If  he  intends  to  stay  but  a  few  bourn, 


TIiAV£LL£U. 


6;^ 


it  is  recommended  to  him  to  have  his  baggage  left  at  a 
little  tavern  on  the  canal,  where  it  can  be  readily  trans- 
ferred to  another  boat. 

The  AquADucT  across  the  Mohawk  is  near  the  5  locks ; 
and  is  considered  the  most  finished  specimen  of  mason 
work  on  the  line  of  the  canal,  though  much  inferior  in 
size  to  that  over  the  Genesee  at  Rochester,  it  conducts 
over  a  supply  of  water  from  the  old  canal,  built  for  boats 
to  pass  the  falls,  and  communicates  also  with  a  large  ba- 
sin on  the  north  bank.  It  passes  the  narrow  channel  of 
the  river  with  three  beautiful  arches,  which  are  covered 
with  a  calcareous  cement  roughened  by  little  stalactites^ 
formed  by  the  water  that  continually^  drips  through  the 
stones.  Stones,  twigs  of  trees,  &c.  on  which  the  water 
falls,  are  soon  found  incrusted  with  a  similar  substance. 
The  channel  here  shows  part  of  the  old  lime  stone  stra- 
ta, with  the  more  durable  granite  rocks  laid  bare  below. 

This  neighbourhood  is  interesting  to  the  geologist, 
abounding  in  oi|;anic  remains^  &c.  but  the  ordinary  tra- 
veller will  be  more  pleased  with  specimens  of  the  beauti- 
ful little  rock-crystals,  (quartz,)  which  are  fou^d  on  the 
hills  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  village.  They  are  per- 
fect in  their  form,  terminating  with  two  pyramids ;  and 
ars  ^0  loosely  imbedded  in  a  sandy  rock,  as  to  be  washed 
out  by  the  rains  in  considerable  numbers. 

There  are  mills  of  various  kinds  at  this  place. 

On  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enters  upon  a  beauti- 
ful meadow  of  fine  soil,  and  a  smooth  surface  ;  through 
which  the  Mohawk  winds  in  a  smooth  and  gentle  currrent, 
enclosed  on  each  side  by  sloping  hills.  At  the  distance  of 
three  mileSf  we  are  in  the  level  region  called  the  Geitnan 
Flats,  famous  for  its  fertility.  The  inhabitants,  who  arc 
almost  all  of  German  extraction,  still  preserve  their  lan- 
guage, and  many  of  the  customs  of  their  ancestors  ;  and 
though  often  laborious  and  provident  farmers,  are  little 
inclined  to  those  improvements  in  learning  or  the  use- 
ful arts,  which  distinguish  so  large  a  portion  of  the  state. 
The  scenes  presented  along  this  part  of  the  canal,  bear  a 
resemblance  to  some  of  the  meadows  of  the  Connecticut, 
although  of  inferior  size,  and  of  more  recent  settlement. 

Six  miles  from  Little  Falls  is  Lock  JVb.  48.     An  ok! 


64 


THE  ^ORTHERN 


church  is  seen  on  the  south  side ;  and  abo,  old  Fort 
Herkimer. 

Hbrkimer.  This  village  is  situated  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  beyond,  and  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  on  a  semicircu- 
lar plain ;  the  circumference  of  which  is  traced  by  the 
Mohawk,  and  the  diameter  by  the  great  road.  It  derives 
its  name  from  Gen.  Herkimer,  of  whom  there  will  be 
more  to  say  at  Rome. 

The  traveller  may  take  a  carriage  here,  to  visit  Trenton 
FallSf  and  join  the  canal  again  at  Utica^  or  go  from  Utica. 

The  LoKG  Level  begins  at  Lock  No.  53,  nearly  six 
miles  west  of  Herkimer.  It  is  the  longest  reach  on  the 
canal  without  any  interruption  by  locks,  extending  to 
Salina,  a  distance  of  Q9i  miles. 


f j<  hrv 


»,i.ju 


UTICA. 


ji> 


This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the 
western  towns.  Here  the  river,  the  great  road,  and  the 
canal,  all  meet  again.  There  are  also  roads  concentrating 
here,  from  various  directions,  and  stage  coaches  arriving 
and  departing  in  great  numbers.  There  are  two  large 
stage  houses ;  one  of  which,  at  the  canal  bridge,  will  be 
found  most  convenient,  if  not  too  crowded.  Travellers, 
wishing  for  more  retired  lodgings,  will  find  them  at  a 
large  hotel  half  a  mile  from  the  canal. 

There  are  several  handsome  churches  in  Utica,  and 
one  or  more  for  almost  every  denomination.  The  streets 
are  broad,  straight,  and  commo^iious  ;  and  the  principal 
ones  well  built  with  rows  of  brick  stores,  or  elegant 
dwelling  houses.  The  bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  is  at  the 
end  of  the  street.  There  were,  in  1825,  5040  inhabitants : 
a  few  less  than  in  Rochester.    (Weigh-Lockj  See  p.  53.) 


I 


ts> 


•€ 

^ 


~\ 


o- 

U 


S';. 


Hamilton  College 


Is  situated  near  the  village  of  Clinton,  9  miles  from 
Utica.    It  contained  107  students  in  1825. 


H  * 


o 

(ft 

w 

09 


^^i" 


9or'iGtiWqiv<V 


old  Fort 

oile  and  a 
leinicircu- 
Bd  by  the 
It  derives 
•e  will  be 

it  TrtnXm, 
om  Utica. 
nearly  six 
ich  on  the 
lending  to 

:ant  of  the 
id,  and  the 
ncentrating 
les  arriving 

two  large 

ige,  will  be 

Travellers, 

them  at  a 

Utica,  and   ^  f 
The  streets 
he  principal 

or  elegant 
vk,  is  at  the 
inhabitants : 
See  p.  53.) 


I  miles  from 


i 


(.  . 


TRAVELLER. 


a 


TRENTON  FALLS. 

This  most  interesting  object  is  well  worthy  the  atten- 
tion of  etery  person  of  taste,  being  justly  considered  one 
of  the  finest  natural  scenes  in  this  part  of  the  country. 
It  will  be  necessary  to  get  a  horse  or  carriage  at  Utica,  as 
no  stage  coach  runs  that  way ;  and  to  set  off  in  the 
rooming,  as  the  whole  day  is  not  too  long  for  the  excur- 
sion. Guide  posts  have  been  recently  erected  along  the 
road,  so  that  strangers  will  find  the  way  without  difficulty. 
An  excellent  inn  is  kept  near  the  falls  by  Mr.  Sherman, 
who  has  a  large  collection  of  rare  and  interesting  petri- 
factions collected  among  the  rocks,  well  worthy  of  ex- 
amination. 

From  this  house  you  descend  a  long  stair  case  down  the 
steep  bank  of  the  West  Canada  Creek,  which  has  cut  a 
frightful  chasm  through  a  rocky  range,  in  some  places  1 50 
feet  deep,  and  is  seen  gliding  swiftly  by  through  a  declin- 
ing channel  below.  The  chasm  continues  for  four  miles, 
and  presents  the  most  interesting  variety  of  cascades  and 
rapids,  boiling  pools  and  eddies,  that  can  easily  be  ima- 
gined. The  passage  or  chasm  between  the  rocks  is  every 
where  very  narrow,  and  in  some  places  barely  of  sufficient 
breadth  to  permit  the  stream  to  pass  ;  while  the  rocks  rise 
perpendicularly  on  each  side,  or  sometimes  even  project 
a  considerable  distance  over  head,  so  that  it  has  been  often 
necessary  to  form  an  artificial  path  by  means  of  gun  pow- 
der. These  places  appear  dangerous,  but  only  require 
a  little  caution  and  presence  of  mind  to  ensure  the  safety 
of  the  visiter,  as  strong  iron  chains  are  fixed  into  the  rock 
to  offer  him  security.  There  are  four  principal  cataracts, 
between  the  stair  case  by  which  you  first  descend,  and  the 
usual  limit  of  an  excursion,  which  is  about  a  mile  and  a 
quarter  up  the  stream.  The  first  of  these  you  discover 
soon  after  the  first  turning,  and  is  about  40  feet  high ; 
with  the  greatest  fall  towards  the  west.  The  top  of  the 
rock  on  the  right  side  is  1 50  feet  high  by  line  measure- 
ment. The  second  is  a  regular  fall,  much  like  a  mill  dam, 
about  8  feet  high  ;  the  third,  a  remarkably  striking  and 
beautiful  one,  is  35  feet,  and  the  fourth  rather  a  succes- 
sion of  cascades,  but  presents  many  most 
varieties. 


agreeable 


66 


THE  NORTHERN 


About  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the  house,  is  a  small 
building  lately  erected  for  the  supply  of  refreHhments. 

A  singular  species  of  tree  ia  fDimd  in  this  neighbour- 
hood, called  the  white  cedar,  «vith  drooping  branches, 
fvbich  often  grow  to  such  a  length  as  to  descend  far  below 
the  root,  in  stooping  towards  the  water. 

The  rocks  here  are  all  a  dark  lime  stone,  of  a  very 
slaty  structure,  and  contain  astonishing  quantities  of  pe- 
trified marine  shells  and  other  animals  of  an  antediluvian 
date,  such  a.«  Dilobites,  Trilobites,  &c.  &c. 

There  are  several  other  cataracts  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  both  above  and  below  ;  and  a  stranger  might 
spend  some  time  here  very  agreeably  in  observing  them  at 
leisure,  and  in  catching  the  fine  trout  with  which  the  creek 
abounds.  The  house  is  commodious,  and  has  the  reputa- 
tion of  furnishing  one  of  the  best  tables  in  this  part  of 
the  state. 


On 

Gen. 

morti 

and  1 

from 

and  t 

Augw 

comm 

agains 

on,  to 

by  St. 

mainet 

voted  i 


From  Utica  to  Syracuse, 

By  the  Canalf  63^  miles. 

Whitestown, 4  miles. 

Oriskany  village, 7 

Rome,  on  the  right, 8 

Feeder  from  Wood  Creek,  and  the  old  U.  U. 

Arsenal, 1 

Oneida  Creek, 14 

Lock  54,  end  of  the  long  level, 29 

Syracuse — £ 

These  places  are  noticed  in  succession. 

Whitestown  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in  this 
part  of  the  state,  as  well  as  the  oldest  settlement.  All 
this  tract  of  country  was  a  perfect  wilderness  in  1785, 
when  Mr  White  from  Middletown,  in  Connecticut,  first 
took  up  his  abode  here  and  lifted  an  axe  against  the 
forest.  The  traveller  may  keep  this  in  mind  as  he  pur- 
sues his  journey,  and  the  progress  of  civilization  will  ap- 
pear the  more  astonishing. 


TRAVELLER. 


n 


a  small 
ntH. 

rhliour- 
anches, 
r  below 

a  very 
s  of  pe- 
diluvian 

I  already 
er  migbt 
;  them  at 
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5  rcputa- 
s  part  of 


4  miles. 

7 
8 

,  1 

14 
L29 

. 4 


iges  in  this 
nent.  All 
in  1785, 
client,  first 
gainst  the 
as  he  pur- 
on  will  ap- 


SiEOE  OF  Fort  Stanwix. 

On  the  road  from  Whitestown  to  Rome,  is  the  spot  wbere 
Gen.  Herkimer  sat  down  under  a  tree,  after  receiving  his 
mortal  wound.  In  1777,  Clen.  Buigoync  sent  between  15 
and  1800  men,  part  savages,  und<  r  Baron  St.  Leger,  to  go 
from  Montreal,  by  Lake  Ontario,  to  attack  Fort  Stanwix ; 
and  then  to  go  down  the  Mohawk  to  Albany.  Early  in 
August  they  arrived  at  Fort  Stuntvix*  Gen.  Herkimer, 
commander  of  Uie  militia  of  Tryon  county,  was  sent 
against  them  with  800  men.  His  men  insisted  on  going 
on,  to  meet  a  detachment  under  Sir  J.  Johnson,  sent  out 
by  St.  Lcger ;  but  at  the  fir>$t  shot  they  fled.  A  few  re* 
mained  and  fought,  and  Gen.  H.  was  killed.  Congress 
voted  a  monument  to  his  memory,  but  it  has  never  been 
erected.  The  Americans  lost  .60  killed,  and  240  wound- 
ed and  prisoners.  Two  miles  below  Fort  Stanwix  the 
canal  commences  between  tbe  Mohawk  and  Wood  Creek  ; 
so  that  Rome  separates  the  waters  of  tbe  Hudson  and  the 
St.  Lawrence. 

Fort  Stanwix  stood  60  or  80  rods  N.  E.  of  the  centre  of 
the  village  of  Rome,  with  a  deep  ditch,  three  rows  of  pali- 
sades, and  a  block  house  in  the  middle.  It  was  defended 
against  St.  Leger,  by  Col.  Ganzevoort.  Lieut.  Colonel 
Willet  drove  him  off  by  a  sortie,  and  plundered  the  camp. 
He  was  intercepted  on  his  return,  but  cut  his  way  through, 
and  returned  without  tbe  loss  of  a  man.  When  Sir  J.  John- 
son returned  from  the  battle  with  Gen.  Herkimer,  the  for- 
tress was  summoned,  but  refused  to  surrender ;  and  Col. 
Willet  and  Lieut.  Stockton  left  the  fort  to  inform  the  peo- 
ple towards  Albany,  of  its  situation.  They  crept  through 
the  enemy's  camp,  and  got  to  Gen.  Schuyler's  head  quar- 
ters at  Stillwater.  Gen.  Arnold  volunteered  to  relieve  it. 
He  frightened  the  besiegers  by  means  of  two  emissaries, 
an  Indian  and  a  white  man,  who  told  such  stories  of  the 
force  of  the  Americans,  that  they  left  their  baggage  and 
fled  precipitately  to  Oneida  Lake. 

Oneida  Castle.  , 

This  is  a  village  on  the  confines  of  a  tract  of  reserved 
land  belonging  to  the  Indians  of  the  Oneida  nation.    The 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STRIET 

WEBSTER,  N.y.  14510 

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THE  NORTHERN 


principal  residences  of  most  of  the  Indians  in  tliis  part  of 
the  country  were  formerly  fortified  in  a  manner  corres- 
ponding with  their  ideas  of  warfare,  and  hence  the  name 
of  castle  attached  to  this  village,  as  well  as  to  several 
others  we  may  have  occasion  to  speak  of  further  on. 

The  Oneidas  were  one  of  the  original  Five  Nations, 
which  form  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  the  history  of  this 
state.  The  best  and  most  interesting  account  of  them 
will  be  found  in  Colden's  history,  to  which  valuable  work, 
the  curious  reader  is  referred.  They  formerly  resided, 
says  that  author,  on  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  near 
where  Montreal  now  stands ;  but  being  driven  from  their 
country  by  the  Adirondacks,  a  powerful  and  warlike  nation, 
wandered  towards  the  south -west,  and  settled  along  the 
lakes  of  New- York,  where  they  now  live.  This  occurred 
before  the  arrival  of  any  Europeans  in  this  part  of  the 
continent;  and  when  the  French  came  to  Quebec,  in 
1603,  they  held  their  present  abode.  On  the  St.  Law- 
rence they  had  been  cultivators  of  the  ground,  but  after 
their  expulsion  they  turned  their  attention  to  warlike 
deeds  with  so  much  success,  that  they  finally  triumphed 
over  their  enemies  the  Adirondacks,  and  almost  extermi- 
nated them.  Their  power  and  influence,  at  the  time  of 
the  settlement  of  New- York  and  New-England,  were  ex- 
tended far  and  wide.  They  held  the  Delawares  in  sub- 
jection in  Pennsylvania  and  Delaware  ;  the  Cherokees  in 
S.  Carolina  sought  their  friendship ;  and  all  the  country 
between  the  Hudson  and  Connecticut  rivers  was  tributary 
to  them.  They  must  have  been  at  that  time  extremely 
numerous.  But  since  then  their  decrease  has  been  great ; 
for  besides  the  losses  they  have  sustained  in  wars,  and 
the  diseases  brought  upon  them  by  civilized  vices,  many 
of  their  young  men  have  led  their  native  country  to  go 
and  join  the  tribes  who  still  preserve  .some  portion  of 
their  original  habits  and  independence ;  and  there  are 
supposed  to  be  only  8000  now  in  this  state.  Some  of  the 
nations,  however,  are  said  to  be  gradually  increasing, 
under  all  their  disadvantages.  The  United  States  have  fur- 
nished sums  of  money  for  their  instruction  in  learning 
«nd  useful  arts ;  as  they  do  to  other  Indian  tribes  in 
our  territory. 

\ 


m 


TRAVELLER. 


6i) 


A  mile  east  of  Oneida  Creek,  and  by  tbo  road  sidoi  is 
the  ancient 

Council  Grovb, 

Where  all  the  public  business  of  the  nation  has  been,  for 
many  years,  transacted.  It  is  formed  of  27  fine  butternut 
trees,  which,  in  the  summer  season,  from  a  little  distance, 
present  a  beautiful  and  regular  mass  of  verdure,  it  was 
carefullv  fenced  in,  until  wit!iin  a  few  years,  and  kept 
clear  of  all  brush,  fallen  iimbur.  and  other  obstructions, 
but  has  now  become  a  mere  thoroughfare.  Towards  the 
south-east  from  this  place  is  seen  the  Episcopal  church,  a 
building  recently  erected  for  the  use  of  the  Indians. 
Great  numbers  of  the  white  persons  from  the  neighbour- 
hood also  attend  service  at  this  house,  as  well  as  in  the 
other  church,  which  is  supplied  with  preachers  by  the 
Foreign  Missionary  Society. 

In  the  scattering  village  about  half  a  mile  beyond,  there 
are  several  decent  and  comfortable  frame  houses  inhabited 
by  Indian  families,  whose  habits  have  risen  to  a  higher 
grade  than  most  of  the  nation,  although  many  of  them 
are  gradually  improving,  by  betaking  themselves  to  agri- 
culture. A  handsome  school-house  has  been  erected  at 
the  same  place,  the  frame  of  which  was  made  and  raised 
under  the  direction  of  a  young  Indian,  from  what  he  had 
learnt  by  watching  the  progress  of  the  builders  employed 
several  years  before  on  his  brother's  house  hard  by.  This 
instance  alone  is  more  conclusive  of  the  Indian  mental 
capacity  for  acquiring  useful  arts,  than  all  the  reasoning  to 
the  contrary  their  enemies  have  ever  advanced. 

The  scholars  are  to  be  taught  the  rudiments  of  learn- 
ing, under  a  master  and  mistress,  and  also  the  useful  arts. 

The  Oneida  nation  derived  their  name  from  a  white 
stono  on  a  hill  five  miles  southerly  from  this  place,  to 
which  they  long  paid  a  superstitious  worship.  The  word 
"  Oneida^"  in  their  curious  and  wonderful  language,  signi- 
fies a  stone  on  a  high  hill.  Many  of  them  were  idolaters 
until  within  a  short  time ;  but  a  few  years  ago  the  nation 
renounced  their  ancient  superstitious  rites,  and  declared 
in  favour  of  Christianity. 

G2 


70 


THE  NORTHERN 


BftOTHERTOWN  AND   NeW-StOCKBRIDGE 

Are  two  yill&ges,  a  few  miles  south-easterly  from  here, 
situated  on  part  of  the  old  Oneida  reservation,  but  granted 
to  some  of  their  scattered  Indian  brethren  from  Pennsyl- 
vania and  New- England.  New-Stockbridge,  until  recently, 
was  the  residence  of  the  Stockbridge  tribe,  who  came  by  an 
invitation  from  the  Oneidas  some  years  ago.  They  had 
Christian  ministers  among  them  long  before  they  removed 
from  Stockbridge  in  Massachusetts. 

Most  of  them  now  reside  at  Green  Bay,  on  land  given 
them  by  the  Menominies,  a  nation  with  whom  they  are  on 
the  most  friendly  terms ;  and  are  adopting,  to  a  good  ex- 
tent, the  arts  of  civilized  life.  They  have  invited  the 
Oneidas  to  join  them. 

The  Brothertown  Indians  have  been  collected  from  all 
the  remnants  of  tribes  in  New-England  and  Long  Island, 
and  practise  comparatively  few  of  the  Indian  customs. 

SYRACUSE. 

This  place  is  no  less  remarkable  for  the  rapidity  of  its 
growth,  than  for  the  peculiar  advantages  of  its  situation. 
The  great  Salt  Spring  is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  distant, 
and  the  water  is  brought  in  hollow  logs  to  the  salt  vats, 
in  great  abundance,  and  at  a  very  trifling  expense.  These 
vats  will  be  seen  at  the  western  side  of  the  village,  and 
are  well  worthy  of  a  day*s  delay,  as  well  as  the  works  at 
Salina,  Liverpool,  and  Geddesburgh.  The  vats  are  large 
pans  made  of  wood,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  raised  a 
little  from  the  ground,  and  placed  in  long  ranges,  with  a 
very  gradual  descent,  to  permit  the  salt  water  to  flow 
slowly  along  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Each  range  of 
vats  is  supplied  by  a  hollow  log  placed  perpendicularly  in 
the  ground  ;  and  the  constant  action  of  the  sun  evapo- 
rates the  water,  and  leaves  the  salt  to  be  deposited  in  small 
cubical  crystals  at  the  bottom.  The  water  is  at  first  a 
little  thick,  but  gradually  deposits  its  impurities ;  and  the 
lower  vats  always  show  a  beautiful  white  crust,  like  the 
purest  snow. 

Light  wooden  roofs  are  kept  ready  to  slide  over  the  vats 


Hi 


TRAVELLER. 


71 


irhen  the  weather  requires  it ;  and  the  salt  is  taken  out 
once  in  two  or  three  days,  to  be  deposited  in  the  store 
houses,  which  are  built  at  regular  distances. 

Thence  it  is  easily  removed  to  the  canal,  and  then  is 
ready  for  transportation  to  any  part  of  the  country. 

It  is  scarcely  four  years  since  the  town  may  be  pro« 
perly  said  to  have  been  begun.  In  1823,  there  were  about 
100  houses,  and  the  number  was  doubled  in  1824.  In 
1S25,  the  inhabitants  amounted  to  1000 ;  and  those  of 
the  township  to  3025.  There  were  then  three  churches  in 
the  village ;  and  736,632  bushels  of  salt  were  manufac- 
tured here  in  that  year.  In  the  autumn  of  the  year  1824, 
the  salt  vats  covered  60  acres,  and  about  140  acres  more 
had  been  cleared  from  the  surrounding  forest,  for  the 
purpose  of  extending  the  works,  under  the  direction  of  a 
company  whose  enterprise,  seconded  by  the  formation  of 
the  canal,  is  likely  to  prove  of  great  and  permanent  ad- 
vantage to  the  country  as  well  as  to  themselves.  Under 
the  same  encouraging  prospects,  the  village  has  acquired 
its  sudden  growth  and  importance ;  large  blocks  of  stores 
have  been  built  on  both  sides  of  the  canal,  two  or  three 
large  inns  and  stage  houses  are  ready  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  travellers,  and  a  good  leal  of  trade  is  carried  on 
in  this  place*  Improvements  are  still  goiiig  on  rapidly, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  foretell  where  they  will  stop. 

The  Oswego  Canal,  which  has  been  commenced,  will 
join  the  Erie  canal  at  this  place,  and  open  a  direct  commu- 
nication with  Lake  Ontario.  Apprehensions,  however, 
have  been  entertained,  lest  this  work  should  draw  off  a 
great  deal  of  the  transportation  from  the  west,  through 
the  VVelland  Canal,  as  the  tolls  will  be  much  less  on  the 
latter  route. 

By  a  recent  survey,  a  canal  from  Syracuse  through  Ho- 
mer to  Binghamptonf  on  the  Susquehannahj  has  been  pro^ 
nounced  practicable.     Syracuse  Weigh- Lock,  (See  p.  53.) 


SALINA 

Is  situated  a  mile  and  a  balf  north  from  this  place,  and 
should  not  be  passed  by  unnoticed.  A  small  but  conve- 
nient little  packet  boat  is  continually  plying  between  the 
two  places,  drawn  by  a  single  horse,  and  passes  by  many 


72 


THE  NORTHERN 


salt  manufactories,  built  and  building  on  both  sides  of  the 
canal.  The  mode  of  evaporation  generally  adopted  here, 
is  that  of  boiling ;  and  a  brief  description  will  convey  a 
clear  idea  of  the  process.  Each  building  contains  sixteen 
or  eighteen  large  iron  kettles,  which  are  placed  in  two 
rows,  forming  what  is  called  "a  block."  They  stand 
about  three  feet  higher  than  the  floor }  and  under  them  is 
a  lai|$e  furnace,  which  is  heated  with  pine  wood,  and  re* 
quires  constant  attention  to  keep  the  water  always  boiling. 
The  water  is  drawn  from  a  large  reservoir  at  one  end  of 
the  building,  after  having  been  allowed  to  stand  awhile 
and  deposit  the  impurities  it  has  brought  along  with  it.  A 
hollow  log,  with  a  pump  at  one  end,  and  furnished  with 
openings  against  the  kettles,  is  the  only  machine  used  in 
filling  them.  The  first  deposit  made  by  the  water  after 
the  boiling  commences,  is  a  compound  of  several  substan- 
ces, and  is  thrown  away,  under  the  name  of  **  Bittern  ;" 
but  the  pure  white  salt,  which  soon  after  makes  its  ap- 
pearance, is  carefully  removed,  and  placed  in  a  store  room 
just  at  hand,  ready  for  barrelling  and  the  market. 

As  the  number  of  manufactories  of  this  description  is 
almost  daily  increasing,  it  would  be  useless  to  attempt  an 
estimate  of  the  quantity  of  salt  they  produce  altogether. 
Separately,  however,  each  yields  about  40  bushels  a  day, 
and  in  1824,  the  different  buildings  were  supposed  to 
amount  to  nearly  forty. 

There  are  two  large  manufactories  here,  where  salt  is 
made  in  reservoirs  of  an  immense  size,  and  evaporated 
by  hot  air  passing  through  them  in  large  pipes.  The 
process  is  slow,  but  seems  to  promise  well.  The  reser- 
voir of  the  principal  one  contains  no  less  than  40,000 
gallons.  The  pipe  is  supplied  with  heat  by  a  furnace  be- 
low, and  the  salt  is  formed  in  large  loose  masses,  resem- 
bling half-thawed  ice.  The  process  has  the  advantage 
of  not  wasting  heat  in  raising  steam.  The  crystallization 
also  is  different  from  that  produced  by  the  other  modes, 
at  least  in  secondary  forms. 

The  Village  of  Salina  is  of  considerable  size  and  a 
flourishing  appearance,  considering  the  shortness  of  the 
time  since  it  began  to  be  built,  and  the  serious  obstacles 
it  has  had  to  encounter  in  the  unhealthiness  of  its  situa- 
tion.  In  1825  it  contained  1000  inhabitants ;  the  village  of 


TRAVELLER. 


^3 


Geddes,  520 ;  and  Liverpool,  375.  The  extensive  marshei 
which  bound  it  on  the  west  are  extremely  unwholesome 
during  the  warmer  seasons  of  the  year,  and  the  whole 
neighbourhood  is  more  or  less  infected  with  the  fever  and 
ague  :  that  terrible  scourge,  which  has  retarded  so  much 
the  settlement  of  many  parts  of  this  western  country. 
Since  the  marshes  have  been  partially  cleared  and  drained, 
the  disease  has  been  greatly  diminished  ;  and  it  is  hoped 
that  time  and  industry  will  reduce  its  ravages  still  further, 
if  not  entirely  eradicate  it. 

The  branch  canal  which  runs  through  this  village,  is 
applied  to  other  valuable  purposes  beside  those  of  trans- 
portation. A  sluice  which  draws  off  a  portion  of  the 
water  towards  the  marshes  and  the  lake,  is  made  to  turn 
several  mill  wheels  in  its  course.  A  forcing  pump  raises 
the  water  of  the  salt  spring  destined  to  supply  the  manu- 
factories here  and  at  Syracuse ;  and  a  large  open  frame 
building  shows  the  spot  from  which  all  the  kettles  and  the 
pans  of  both  these  places  derive  their  supplies :  that  for 
the  latter  being  elevated  to  the  height  of  70  feet,  and  the 
pump  being  able  to  raise  120,000  gallons  in  24  hours. 

The  Salt  Spring  itself  will  be  viewed  as  a  curiosity,  but 
in  its  present  state  presents  no  very  remarkable  appear- 
ance, as  there  is  little  commotion  visible  on  the  surface, 
and  the  source  would  seem  by  no  means  equal  to  the 
great  draughts  which  are  continually  made  upon  it. 

The  Lake  will  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  about  a  mile. 
It  is  6  miles  long  and  two  broad,  and  must  receive  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  salt  water  from  the  draining  of  the 
marshes,  as  its  banks  are  covered  with  saline  plants.  The 
valley  is  surrounded  by  lime-stone  hills  with  petrifactions, 
and  gypsum  is  found  in  great  quantities. 

**  The  American  Sdt  Formationf'*  says  Dr.  Van  Rensse- 
laer in  his  *  Essay,*  "  extends  over  the  continent  from  the 
AUegbanies  to  the  Pacific,  between  SI''  and  45<^  N.  Lat. 
In  this  immense  tract,  rock  salt  has  been  occasionally 
found  ;  but  its  locality  is  more  generally  pointed  out  by 
brine  springs.'*  The  salt  springs  in  this  state  are  in  the 
counties  of  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  Ontario,  Niagara, 
Genesee,  Tompkins-,  Wayne,  and  Oneida,  but  this  is  the 
most  valuable  on  various  accounts.   During  the  year  end-^ 


74 


THE  NORTHERN 


iog  Aug.  1823,  606,463  bushels  were  manufactured  here. 
In  180U  there  were  only  42,754. 

45  gallons  of  water  make  a  bushel  of  salt.  At  Nantucket 
350  gallons  of  sea  water  are  required. 

The  following  approximated  analysis  uf  the  water  of  this 
spring  is  given  by  Dr.  Noyes  of  Hamilton  College.  40 
gallons,  or  355  lbs.  contain  56  lbs.  of  saline  extrack 

Pure  Muriate  of  Soda,  51  lb.  — oz. 

Carb.  Lime,  coloured  by  oxyde  of  iron,  —       6^ 

Sulph.  Lime  2       4 

Muriate  Lime,  1      1S| 

and  probably  muriate  magnesia,  and  sulph.  soda. 

i 

Fbom  Syracuse  to  Rochester. 

^  As  the  traveller  is  supposed  to  go  to  Rochester  by  the 
canal,  the  description  of  places  on  the  Turnpike  is  omit- 
ted until  we  reach  that  part  of  the  country  on  the  return 
from  Buffalo. 

By  ihe  eanot,  99  mUes.  Weed's  Basin  26  m.-^A  coach 
to  Auburn,  8  m.  for  50  cents.  11m.  Montezuma  Salt 
Works.  Here  begin  the  Cayuga  Marshes.  The  canal 
across  the  marshes  was  constructed  at  a  vast  expense.  35 
m.  Palmyra.  Coach  to  Canandaigua,  13  m.  for  75  cents. 
The  Great  Embankment,  72  feet  high,  extending  2  m. 

Antiquities.  In  the  towns  of  Onondaga,  Camillus, 
and  Pompey,  are  the  remains  of  ancient  towns  and  forts, 
of  which  a  description  will  be  found  in  Yates  and  Moul- 
ton's  new  History  of  the  State,  vol.  I.  p.  13.  In  Pompey 
the  form  of  a  triangular  enclosure  is  visible,  with  the  re- 
mains of  something  like  circular  or  elliptical  forts  at  the 
corners,  8  miles  apart,  the  whole  including  more  than  500 
acres.  De  Witt  Clinton,  the  present  Governor  of  this 
state,  in  his  memoir,  read  in  1817,  before  the  Lit.  and 
Phil.  Society,  thinks  the  place  was  stormed  on  the  north 
line.    See  also  North  American  Review. 

In  Camillus  is  an  elliptical  fort  on  a  high  hill,  three 
acres  in  extent,  with  a  covered  way,  10  rods  long,  to  a 
spring  on  the  west,  and  a  gate  towards  the  east.  Another 
is  on  a  less  elevation  half  a  mile  off,  and  half  as  large* 
Sculls,  pottery,  and  bits  of  brick  used  to  be  picked  up  in 
these  places.    (There  is  a  bed  of  Coal  in  Onondaga.) 


d  here. 

mlucket 

r  of  this 
ge.     40 

b.  — oz. 

6i 
4 


ir  by  the 

is  omit- 

le  return 

-A  coach 
ima  Salt 
he  canal 
nse.   35 
5  cents, 
ing  2  m. 
amillusi 
nd  forts, 
id  Moul- 
Ponopey 
h  the  re- 
ts at  the 
than  SOU 
r  of  this 
Lit.  and 
he  north 

I  ill,  three 
)ng,  to  a 

Another 
as  large. 

ed  up  in 
aga.) 


iH 


TRAV£LL£K.  i 


76 


ROCHESTER 

If  the  largest  and  most  flourUhing  place  in  thii  ptrt  of 
the  state,  being  indeed  the  fourth  in  the  state  in  point  of 
numbers,  the  township  containing  in  1825,  5S71 ;  next 
to  Troy.  It  has  several  good  inns,  one  of  the  best  of 
trhich  is  the  **  Coffee  House,"  near  the  canal  bridge.  It 
Is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Genesee  river,  at  the 
upper  falls,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  canal ;  and  is  con- 
sequently destined  to  be  the  place  of  receiving  goods  pass- 
ing up  or  down  the  river ;  and  at  the  same  time  eiyoys  the 
finest  advantages  for  water  mills  of  all  kinds,  iVom  the 
convenient  and  abundant  supply  obtained  from  the  M\i. 

Rochester  now  exceeds  Utica  in  population.  The 
following  statement  of  its  growth  and  present  condition 
is  copied  from  the  Rochester  Telegraph. 

Rochester  was  first  surveyed  into  lots  in  the  year  1811, 
and  the  first  settlement  made  in  1812.  Durinc  Uie  war 
the  increase  was  slow,  and  it  was  not  until  the  btter  part 
of  the  year  1814,  that  any  considerable  addition  was  made 
to  the  number  of  inhabitants.  From  that  period  to  the 
present,  the  increase  has  been  constantly  progressing.  In 
Septemper,  1818,  the  village  contained  1049  inhabitants ; 
in  August,  1820,  1502  ;  in  September,  1822,  3130,  (which 
included  labourers  on  the  public  works ;  the  permanent 
population  at  that  time  was  estimated  at  about  2700.)  In 
1824,  4274;  and  in  1825,  5271. 

The  proposed  canal  from  Genesee  river  to  Olean  on 
the  Alleghany,  would  be  about  110  miles  long,  and  cost, 
as  is  estimated,  about  $1,320,000.  It  would  open  a  valu- 
able trade  with  the  upper  valley  of  the  Ohiq,  and  much 
increase  the  value  of  land. 

Sulphur  SpringSy  Dathingy  &c. — A  Bathing  House  has 
been  erected  at  the  Sulphur  Springs,  in  Buflala*street, 
with  accommodations  for  ladies  as  well  as  gentlemen, 
where  baths  may  be  had  of  sulphur,  alkaline,  and  fresh 
water,  warm  or  cold. 

There  is  an  eye  and  ear  infirmary,  1  bank,  6  meeting 
houses  for  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  Methodists, 
Friends,  and  Catholics,  a  court  house,  jail,  &c. 

The  A<ivEDucT  over  the  Genesee  is  one  of  the  finest 
works  on  the  course  of  the  canalj  and  is  no  less  remark^ 


76 


THE  NORTHERN 


able  for  its  usefulness  than  for  its  architectural  beauty  and 
strength.  It  ia  borne  across  the  river's  channel,  on  ten 
arches  of  hewn  stone.  The  river  dashes  rapidly  along 
beneath,  while  boats,  with  goods  and  passengers,  glide 
safely  by  above. 

A  feeder  enters  the  canal  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
where  a  sluice  is  also  constructed  for  the  supply  of  the 
numerous  manufactories  built  and  building  on  the  bank. 
Another  sluice  is  also  dug  on  the  M'est  side,  where  many 
other  mills  are  to  be  seen.  The  Basin  is  large  and 
convenient ;  and  the  appearance  of  business,  which  is 
observed  about  it,  sufficiently  shows  the  importance  the 
place  has  already  acquired.  The  streets  of  the  town 
are  handsomely  and  regularly  laid  out,  and  several  of  them 
are  very  well  built  with  store  and  dwelling  houses  of  brick 
and  stone,  and  well  flagged  on  the  side-walks.  Two  fine 
churches  are  just  completed  on  a  small  public  square, 
near  the  court  house,  which  is  itself  a  neat  building  of 
hewn  stone.  One  of  the  churches  belongs  to  the  Presby- 
terians, and  the  other  to  the  Episcopalians ;  and  the  style 
and  size  of  both  show  the  rapidity  of  the  increase  of  in- 
habitants, while  they  reflect  much  credit  on  the  good  habits 
of  the  people. 

Falls.  There  is  a  fall  in  the  Genesee  of  about  90  feet, 
near  the  northern  extremity  of  the  town ;  and  a  still  finer 
one  at  Carthage,  which,  with  the  truly  impressive  scenery 
of  the  banks,  is  worthy  of  particular  attention.  To  vary 
the  ride,  it  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  go  down  on  one 
side  of  the  river,  and  after  viewing  the  cataract,  cross  the 
bridge  a  little  above,  and  return  on  the  other. 

The  Lake  Ontario  Steam  jBoa(  touches  at  Port  Genesee, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  its  way  to  Niagara  and  to 
Ogdensburgh — the  route  to  Montreal. 

Carthage.  The  fall  here  is  very  sudden,  though  not 
in  a  single  precipice.  The  descent  is  70  feet  in  a  few 
yards.  The  cataract  has  evidently  been  retiring  for  ages, 
as  the  deep  gulf  below  the  falls,  with  its  high,  perpendi- 
cular and  ra^ed  banks,  is  sufficient  testimony ;  and  the 
seclusion  of  the  place,  the  solemn  and  sublime  effect  of  the 
scenery,  redoubled  by  the  roaring  of  the  cataract,  com- 
bine to  render  it  one  of  the  most  impressive  scenes  in  this 
part  of  the  country*  The  breadth  allowed  for  the  river 
IS  barely  sufficient  for  its  passage,  being  marked  out  by 


TRAVELLEft. 


77 


the  tremendous  precipices  above,  and  frequently  much  en- 
croached upon  by  the  heaps  of  stones  which  crunble 
away  from  their  sides.  The  precipices  are  perfect  walls 
of  seeondarr  rocks*  presenting  their  natural  stratiftcatlon, 
and  descending  from  the  surrounding  level,  to  a  depth 
of  about  two  hundred  feet.  A  singular  vein  of  whitish 
stone  will  be  observed,  cutting  them  horizontally,  and  die- 
appearing  at  the  brink  of  the  falls,  which  it  appears  to 
have  kept  at  their  present  position :  its  superior  hardness, 
evidently  resisting  the  action  of  the  water  for  a  mudi 
longer  time ;  and  probably  rendering  the  descent  more 
perpendicular  tban  it  would  otherwise  be.  The  rocks 
are  overhuns  with  thick  forest  trees,  which,  in  some  places, 
have  been  able  to  find  a  narrow  footing  along  the  sides. 

One  of  the  boldest  single  fabrics  that  art  has  ever  suc- 
cessfully attempted  in  this  country,  now  shows  a  few  of 
its  remains  in  this  place.  The  two  great  piles  of  timber 
which  stand  opposite  each  other  on  the  narrow  level, 
where  once  the  river  flowed,  are  the  abutments  of  abridge 
thrown  over  a  few  years  ago.  It  was  400  feet  in  length, 
and  260  above  the  water ;  but  stood  only  a  short  time, 
and  then  fell  with  a  tremendous  crash,  by  its  own  weight. 
Fortunately  no  person  was  crossing  it  at  the  time — a  lady 
and  gentleman  had  just  before  passed,  and  safely  retfehea 
the  other  side. 

On  account  of  the  obstructions  at  the  falls,  navigation 
is  entirely  interrupted  here ;  and  all  the  communication 
between  the  banks  of  the  Genesee,  as  well  as  the  canal, 
and  Lake  Ontario  is  through  Carthage.  Merchandise  is 
raised  up  the  bank,  or  lowered  down,  by  means  of  an  in- 
clined plane,  very  steep,  where  the  descending  weight  is 
made  to  raise  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior  gravity. 

Road  from  Rochester  to  Niagara  Falls,  S7  miles. 


To  Carthage  Falls...:..  2 

Parma 9 

Clarkson 7 

Hartbind ^....14 

(hence  a  wagon  takes  pas- 
v'^engers  to  Lockport,  7  m.) 


H 


To  Sandy  Creek 7 

Gaines > 8 

Oak  Orchard 7 

Cambria ...11 

Lewiston •..IS 

Niagara  Falls.......  ^ 


78 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  principal  objects  on  this  road,  are  the  Ridge,  Lew- 
iston,  on  Nii^gara  River,  and  the  Tuscarora  Village.  Ni- 
agara Village  will  be  seen  if  you  do  not  cross  into  Canada 
atLewiston:  and  Queenston  if  you  do.  Lockport  may 
also  be  seen  by  leaving  the  stage  road  at  Hartland,  54 
miles  firom  Rochester,  where  a  wpgon  awaits  the  arrival 
of  the  coach,  to  take  travellers  to  Lockport,  7  miles.  It 
will  be  proper,  however,  to  pay  your  passive  only  to  this 
place,  if  you  determine  to  stop  here.  The  stage  coach 
stops  at  Lewiston  for  the  night. 

Instead  of  going  by  land  f^om  Rochester,  it  may  be 
more  convenient  to  take  passage  in  the  canal  boat  to 
Lockport ;  and  thence  go  to  Hartland  to  meet  the  stage 
coach. 

Th^  RiDOE  is  a  remarkable  elevation,  of  little  height, 
and  for  the  most  part,  very  narrow,  extending  a  great  part 
of  the  distance  from  Rochester  to  Lewiston.  It  is  often 
perfectly  level  for  several  miles,  and  affbi  ds  an  admirable 
foundation  for  a  road,  and  the  stage  road  has,  in  conse- 
quence, been  laid  along  its  top.  The  manner  in  which 
this  singular  elevation  could  have  been  made,  has  excited 
the  speculations  of  many  curious  observers  of  nature,  and 
been  explained  in  different  ways.  Some  have  imagined 
that  the  ridge  was,  at  some  long  past  period,  the  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario,  and  was  thrown  up  by  its  waves.  The 
country  between  it  and  the  lake,  is  so  level  as  to  ren- 
der it  very  probable  that  the  water  has  once  overflowed 
it ;  but  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  understand  how  the 
waves  could  have  managed  to  barricade  themselves  out  of 
a  tract  of  country,  it  therefore  seems  more  rational  to 
adopt  another  theory :  that  the  lake  was  formerly  still 
more  extensive  than  is  here  supposed,  and  overflowed  the 
land  some  distance  southward  of  this  place,  when  a  cur- 
rent might  easily  have  produced  a  bar  parallel  to  the  shore, 
which,  when  left  dry,  might  present  the  form  of  the 
ridge. 

The  progress  of  improvement  along  this  part  of  the 
road,  is  very  rapid  and  flattering.  The  ground  presents 
a  slope  on  each  side  of  the  path,  peculiarly  well  adapted 
for  home  lots,  gardens,  and  orchards ;  and  the  iVequency 
and  facility  of  transportation  give  the  inhabitants  very 
manifest  advantages-     Some  well  built,  and  even  hand- 


;e,  Lew- 
ie. Ni- 
Canada 
»rt  may 
land,  54 
e  arrival 
iiles.  It 
y  to  this 
;e  coach 

maybe 
1  boat  to 
the  stage 

3  height, 
;reat  part 
t  is  often 
dmirahle 
in  conse- 
in  which 
B  excited 
ture,  and 
imagined 
i  shore  of 
es.  The 
gis  to  ren- 
verflowed 
how  the 
ves  out  of 
fttional  to 
nerly  still 
lowed  the 
len  a  cur- 
the  ahore, 
in  of  the 

art  of  the 
1  presents 
1  adapted 
(Vequency 
ants  very 
ren  hand- 


I- 


N 


i 

1 

1 

^  1 

;^ 

1 

■       f 

"^ 

r  ^ 

^- 

TRAVELLER. 


79 


BUine  bouses  will  be  observed,  wbicb  are  still  few  indeed, 
but  sbow  that  a  good  style  has  actually  been  introduced. 

LooKPORT  is  one  of  the  most  advantageous  sites  for 
machinery  on  the  canal,  as  all  the  water  passes  down  the 
mountain  ridge,  which  the  canal  requires,  for  an  extent  of 
135  miles.  It  is  brought  down  by  passing  round  the 
double  locks,  and  falls  55  feet  into  a  large  natural  basin, 
where  two  ranges  of  overshot  wheels  may  be  built,  each 
at  least  S5  feet  in  diameter.  A  little  water  is  sufficient  to 
turn  wheels  of  this  description.  The  rocks  are  blasted 
out  to  a  depth  of  CO  feet. 

Within  5  or  6  years,  the  spot  has  been  changed  iVom  a 
wilderness  to  a  village  of  3  or  400  bouses,  and  about  1400 
inhabitants. 

It  is  65  miles  to  Rochester,  and  27  to  Buffalo. 

Minerals.  The  rocky  stratum  is  a  carbonate  of  lime, 
containing  organic  remains :  encrinltes,  enthrocites,  &c. 
&c.  crystals  of  carb.  lime  of  various  forms ;  rhomboidal, 
dog-tooth  spar,  13  sided ;  fluate  of  lime  ;  beautiAil  crys- 
tals of  sulpnate  of  lime,  sometimes  enclosing  the  prece- 
ding ;  sulph.  of  strontian,  earthy,  or  in  long,  flat,  bluish 
crystals ;  pyrites  *,  sulphuret  of  zinc  ;  sulphuret  of  lead. 
Collections  of  minerals  may  be  purchased  here. 

The  TnsoARORA  Reservation  is  an  oblong  tract  of 
land  reaching  within  a  mile  of  Lewiston.  This  nation  of 
Indians  are  particularly  worthy  the  notice  of  the  traveller, 
on  account  of  the  advances  they  have  made  in  the  arts 
and  habits  of  civilized  life.  They  emigrated  from  North 
Carolina  near  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  at  an  in- 
vitation from  the  Five  Nations,  and  were  admitted  on 
equal  terms  into  their  confederacy,  which  has  since  re- 
ceived th§  name  of  the  Six  Nations.  They  have  had  a 
cler^man  settled  among  them  for  many  years,  and  Chris- 
tianity has  been  voluntarily  adopted  by  them.  Their  vil- 
lage has  a  flourishine;  appearance,  with  some  handsome 
and  well-cultivated  farms,  and  a  house  built  for  public  wor- 
ship. They  amount  to  about  250  individuals,  and  pre- 
serve, in  some  degree,  the  Indian  fashions  in  their  dress, 
although  the  materials  are  cloth,  &c.  Strangers  may  here 
obtain  moccasins  and  otherneat  articles  of  Indian  manu- 
facture. 


ao 


THE  NORTHERN 


-'"^f. 


'■e-  •*<!  la -it ' .  :^\'^'./i\  ■ftjj'fU- 


Hints  to  the  Traveller  at  Lewiston. 


■» 


It  will  be  the  intention  of  many  strangers  who  arrive  at 
thb  place,  to  devote  several  days  to  viewing  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  the  battle  grounds  in  the  vicinity,  and  perhaps 
in  making  short  excursions  in  different  directions.  To 
those  who  have  leisure,  such  a  course  may  well  be  recom* 
mended ;  and  it  may  be  almost  a  matter  of  indifference 
whether  they  first  visit  the  American  or  the  British  side. 
The  public  accommodations  are  excellent  at  both  places, 
and  the  river  may  be  safely  crossed  at  any  hour  of  the 
4ay}  by  a  ferry,  at  the  expense  of  about  half  a  dollar,  in- 
cluding the  transportation  of  luggage  down  and  up  the 
steep  banks.  A  plan  has  been  formed,  for  cutting  a  con- 
venient carriage  road  to  the  water  on  each  side,  which 
will  be  a  great  improvement.  A  stair  case  is  erected  near 
the  falls,  on  the  British  as  well  as  the  American  side,  to 
furnish  a  convenient  mode  of  descending  to  the  foot  of 
the  cataract,  where  the  charge  is  25  cents  for  each  person. 
Puring  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  both  places  are 
the  resort  of  great  throngs  of  visiters.  Stage  coaches 
also  pass  up  and  down  on  both  sides  every  day  at  equal 
rates. 

To  such,  however,  as  have  but  a  short  time  to  spend  in 
thia  neighbourhood,  it  may  be  strongly  recommended  to 
cross  the  river  here  and  proceed  directly  to  the  British 
falls.  The  cataract  on  that  side  is  higher,  broader,  more 
unbroken,  and  universally  acknowledged  by  far  the  no- 
blest part  of  the  scene.  The  visiter  may  indeed  see  it 
from  the  American  side,  but  the  view  from  Table  Rock  is 
the  noblest  of  all,  and  ought  by  no  means  to  be  neglected. 
The  finest  view  from  the  level  of  the  water  below  is  also 
afforded  on  the  west  side. 

There  is  a  stage  coach  which  runs  daily  from  Lewiston 
to  Buffalo,  on  each  side  of  the  river. 

THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA— /rom  the  Mierican  side. 

The  Inn  or  Hotel  is  a  large  building,  and  very  well 
kept  and  commodious. 
The  height  of  the  fall  on  this  side  is  160  feet  perpendi* 


TRAVELLER. 


SI 


cular,  but  somewhat  broken  in  several  places  by  the  pro- 
jecting rocks.  It  extends  300  yards  to  a  rock  which  in- 
terrupts it  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice.  A  narrow  sheet 
appears  beyond  it,  and  then  comes  Goat  Island,  with  a 
mural  precipice.  Between  this  and  the  other  shore  is  the 
Grand  Crescent,  for  which  see  a  few  pages  beyond.  There 
is  a  bridge  to  the  island,  which  commands  many  fine  views 
of  the  falls. 

There  is  a  ferry  at  Lewiston,  which  is  about  half  a  mile 
across ;  but  the  current  is  strong  on  this  side,  and  the 
eddy  sets  up  with  such  force  on  the  other,  that  a  boat 
moves  more  than  double  that  distance  in  going  over.  The 
passage  is  not  dangerous,  although  the  water  is  much 
agitated  by  counter  currents  and  changing  whirlpools ;  for 
the  ferrymen  are  taught  by  their  experience  to  manage 
the  boat  with  care,  and  not  only  to  take  advantage  of  the 
currents,  but  to  avoid  all  the  rough  places,  ripples,  and 
whirlpools.  The  banks  here  have  an  appearance  very 
wild  and  striking ;  and  the  stranger  immediately  notices 
the  remains  of  former  levels  high  up  the  sides  of  the 
rocks,  which  prove,  however  incredible  it  may  at  first 
appear,  that  the  river  once  poured  along  at  the  height  of 
about  two  hundred  feet  above  its  present  surface. 

The  rocks  are  a  dark  red  sand  stone,  with  thin  strata 
of  a  more  clayey  character  and  a  lighter  colour,  occurring 
e?ery  few  feet. 

Niagara  is  about  seven  miles  further  up  the  stream,  so 
that  the  stranger  will  strain  his  eyes  in  vain  to  discover 
from  this  place  that  great  object  of  his  wishes. 

QuEENSTON,  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  is  a  small 
town,  uninteresting  except  so  far  as  regsirds  its  natural 
situation,  and  some  martial  events  of  which  it  has  been 
the  theatre. 


'■'.  -i  \  1-' 


'    "'      The  Battle  OF  QuEEMSTON. 

During  the  last  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain,  in  1812,  while  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer  was 
stationed  at  Lewistop,  he  formed  the  bold  design  of  taking 
Queenston ;  and  in  spite  of  the  difficulty  of  ascending 
the  steep  banks,  and  the  fortifications  which  had  been 
thrown  up  for  its  defence,  before  day-light  in  the  morning 

H2 


TH£  NORTHERN 


of  October  13tb,  he  embarked  his  troops  at  the  ferrj  and 
passed  over  the  river  under  cover  of  a  battery.  As  the 
acceMible  points  on  the  coast  were  strictly  watched,  and 
defended  by  batteries  of  some  strength,  the  place  selected 
for  tfa«  attack  was  the  lofty  and  precipitous  bank  just 
above.  Two  or  three  small  batteries  had  been  erected  on 
the  brow,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible ;  but  this 
did  not  ducourage  the  undertaking.  The  landing  was 
effected,  and  in  spite  of  the  difficulty  of  the  ascent,  the 
heights  were  surmounted,  and  the  Americans  commenced 
a  brisk  action  on  the  summit.  Gen.  Brock,  who  was  at 
a  distance,  hearing  the  guns,  hastened  to  the  spot }  but 
under  a  tree  near  the  precipice  was  killed  by  a  chance  shot. 
The  Americaas  remained  in  possession  of  the  heights  a 
few  hours,  but  were  then  obliged  to  recross  the  river. 

4 

The  Monument  to  General  Brock 

Was  rabed  by  the  British  government  in  the  year  1824 ; 
and  the  remains  of  Gen.  Brock  have  since  been  deposited 
there.  Its  height  is  about  115  feet ;  and  the  view  from 
the  top  is  very  fine  and  extensive,  the  base  being  350  feet 
above  the  river.  In  cle&r  weather  the  eve  embraces  not 
only  the  river  below,  and  the  towns  of  Lewistou  and 
Queenston,  but  those  of  Newark  and  Fort  Niagara,  at  the 
entrance  of  Lake  Ontario,  part  of  the  route  of  the  Wel- 
land  Canal,  a  vast  level  tract  of  country  covered  with 
a  uniform  forest,  and  the  horizon  formed  by  the  distant 
lake  itself. 

The  monument  is  built  of  a  coarse  gray  limestone,  of 
which  the  hill  is  formed,  and  contains  some  shells  and 
other  oi^anic  remains.  The  old  park  for  artillenr  and 
the  marks  of  various  works,  will  be  observed  in  difilerent 
parts  of  the  heights.  (For  the  Welland  Caned,  see  page  91.) 

From  ^xuenston  to  J^agara  Falls  is  7  miles,  over  a  level, 
sandy  road. 

The  Seat  OF  Sir  Peregrine  Maitland,  4  miles,  is 
a  handsome  edifice  near  the  road.  It  was  once  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Duke  of  Richmond. 

Ancient  Tumuli.  Near  Sir  P.  Maitland's  is  a  range 
of  rifiog  ground,  which  overlooks  the  countiy  and  lake 
for  a  great  distance.    Near  the  top  a  quantity  of  human 


TKAVELLER. 


S9 


bones  were  recently  discovered  by  tbe  blowing  down  of 
an  old  tree.  A  great  number  of  skeletons  were  found  on 
digging,  witb  Indian  beads,  pipes,  &c.  and  some  concb- 
sbells  shaped  apparently  for  musical  instruments,  placed 
under  several  of  the  heads.  Other  perforated  shells  were 
found,  which  are  said  to  be  known  only  on  the  west  coast 
of  the  continent  within  the  Tropics.  There  were  also 
found  brass  or  copper  utensils,  &c.  and  tiie  ground  looks 
as  if  it  had  been  defended  with  a  palisade. 

The  Whirlpool,  sometimes  called  tbe  Devil's  Hole, 
cannot  be  seen  without  leaving  the  road!  and  going  to  the 
bank.  The  rocks  are  about  300  feet  above  the  water ;  and 
during  the  late  war  50  Americans  were  driven  off  by  a 
party  of  Indians,  in  the  night,  mistaking  the  trees  for  the 
verge  of  a  wood.    One  was  saved  by  falling  into  a  cedar. 

A  lekiurely  walk  the  whole  distance,  near  the  river, 
may  please  the  admirer  of  nature ;  as  the  high  and  rocky 
cliffs  which  form  the  banks  on  both  sides  present  a  con- 
tinued succession  of  striking  scenes. 

Although  the  surface  of  the  ground  frequently  indicates 
the  passage  of  water  in  some  long  past  period,  the  whole 
road  is  much  elevated  above  tbe  river,  and  owing  to 
this  circumstance  the  traveller  is  disappointed  at  not 
getting  a  sight  of  the  cataract  from  a  distance,  as  it  re« 
mains  concealed  by  tbe  banks,  until  he  has  approached 
very  near.  It  frequently  happens  also,  that  tbe  roar  of 
the  cataract  is  not  perceived  before  reaching  the  inn,  for 
tbe  intervening  bank  intercepts  the  sound  so  much  in 
that  direction,  that  the  noise  of  the  wheels  is  sometimes 
sufficient  to  drown  it  entirely.  Yet,  strange  as  it  may 
appear,  the  inhabitants  declare,  that  at  the  same  time  it 
may  very  probably  be  heard  on  the  shore  of  Lake  On- 
tario. 


THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA— /rom  the  British  side. 

There  are  two  large  Inks  or  Hotels  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  river,  both  situated  as  near  the  falls  as  could 
be  desired.  That  kept  by  Mr.  Forsyth  stands  on  what 
ought  strictly  to  be  called  the  upper  bank,  for  that  ^eva- 
tiuu  appears  to  have  once  formed  the  river's  shore.  This 
is  the  larger  house ;  the  galleries  and  windows  in  the  rear 


84 


TUB  NORTHERN 


commtnd  a  fine  view  of  the  cataract,  although  not  an  en- 
tire one,  and  overlook  the  rapids  and  ri?er  for  several 
miles  above.  The  other  house  is  also  commodious,  and 
commands  the  same  scene  from  a  different  point  of  view. 

Following  a  foot  path  through  the  pasture  behind  For- 
syth's, the  stranger  soon  finds  himself  on  the  steep  brow 
of  the  aeecnd  bankf  and  the  mighty  cataract  of  Niagara 
suddenly  opens  beneath  him.  A  path  leads  away  to  the 
left,  down  the  bank,  to  the  verge  of  the  cataract ;  and 
another  to  the  right,  which  offers  a  drier  walk,  and  pre- 
sents a  more  agreeable  and  varied  scene. 

The  surface  of  the  rocks  is  so  perfectly  flat  near  the 
Ihlls,  and  the  water  descends  so  considerably  over  the 
rapids  just  before  it  reaches  the  precipice,  that  it  seems  a 
wonder  that  the  place  where  you  stand  is  not  overflown. 
Probably  the  water  is  restrained  only  by  the  direction  of 
the  current,  as  a  little  lateral  pressure  would  be  sufficient 
to  flood  the  elevated  level  beside  it,  where,  there  can  be  no 
question,  the  course  of  the  river  once  lay. 

Table  Rock  is  a  projection  a  few  yards  from  the  cata- 
ract, which  commands  a  fine  view  of  this  magnificent 
scene.  Indeed  it  is  usually  considered  the  finest  point  of 
view.  The  height  of  the  fall  on  this  side  is  174  feet  per- 
pendicular ;  and  this  height  the  vast  sheet  of  foam  pre- 
serves unbroken,  quite  round  the  Grand  Crescent,  a  dis- 
tance, it  u  estimated,  of  700  yards.  Goat  Island  divides 
the  cataract,  and  just  beyond  it  stands  an  isolated  rock. 
The  fall  on  the  American  side  is  neither  so  high,  so  wide, 
nor  so  unbroken ;  yet,  if  compared  with  any  thing  else 
but  the  Crescent,  would  be  regarded  with  emotions  of 
indescribable  sublimity.  The  breadth  is  900  feet,  the 
height  160',  and  about  two- thirds  the  distance  to  the  bot- 
tom the  sheet  is  broken  by  projecting  rocks.  A  bridge 
built  from  the  American  side  connects  Goat  Island  and 
the  main  land,  though  invisible  from  this  spot ;  and  the 
inn  on  the  same  side,  in  Niagara,  is  seen  a  little  way  from 
the  river. 

It  may  be  recommended  to  the  traveller  to  visit  this 
place  as  often  as  he  can,  and  to  view  it  from  every  neigh- 
bouring point ;  as  every  change  of  light  exhibits  it  under 
a  different  and  interesting  aspect.  The  rainbows  are  to 
be  seen,  from  this  side,  only  in  the  afternoon ;  but  at  that 


TRAVELLER. 


85 


time  Uie  clouds  of  mist,  which  are  continually  rising  (Vom 
the  gulf  below,  often  present  them  in  the  utmost  beauty 

Dr.  Dwigbt  gives  the  following  estimates,  in  his  Travels, 
of  the  quantity  of  water  which  passes  the  cataract  of  Ni<< 
agara.  The  river  at  the  ferry  is  7  furlongs  wide,  and  on 
an  average  S5  feet  deep.  The  current  probably  runs  six 
miles  an  hour ;  but  supposing  it  to  be  only  6  miles,  the 
quantity  that  passes  the  falls  in  an  hour,  is  more  thsji  96 
millions  of  tons  Avoirdupois ;  if  we  suppose  it  to  be  6,  it 
will  be  more  than  102  millions ;  and  in  a  day  would  be 
S400  millions  of  tons.  The  noise  is  sometimes  heard  at 
York,  60  miles. 

THE  RAPIDS 

begin  about  half  a  mile  above  the  cataract ;  and,  although 
the  breadth  of  the  river  might  at  first  make  them  appear 
of  little  importance,  a  nearer  inspection  will  convince  the 
stranger  of  their  actual  size,  and  the  terrific  danger  of 
the  passage.  The  inhabitants  of  the  ne^hbourhood  re- 
gard it  as  certain  death  to  get  once  involved  in  them ;  and 
.that  not  merely  because  all  escape  firom  the  cataract  would 
be  hopeless,  but  because  the  violent  force  of  the  water 
among  the  rocks  in  the  channel,  would  instantly  dash  th^ 
bones  of  a  man  in  pieces.  Instances  are  on  record  of 
persons  being  carried  down  by  the  stream ;  indeed,  there 
was  an  instance  of  two  men  carried  over  in  March  last;  but 
no  one  is  known  to  have  ever  survived.  Indeed,  it  is  very 
rare  that  the  bodies  are  found ;  as  the  depth  of  the  gulf 
below  the  cataract,  and  the  tumultuous  agitation  of  the 
eddies,  whirlpools,  and  counter  currents,  render  it  difficult 
for  any  thing  once  sunk  to  rise  again ;  while  the  general 
course  of  the  water  is  so  rapid,  that  it  is  soon  hurried  far 
down  the  stream.  The  laige  logs  which  are  brought  down 
in  great  numbers  during  the  spring,  bear  sufficient  testi- 
mony to  these  remarks.  Wild  ducks,  geese,  &c.  are  fre- 
quently precipitated  over  the  cataract,  and  generally  re- 
appear either  dead  or  with  their  legs  or  wings  broken. 
Some  say  that  water  fowl  avoid  the  place  V7hen  able  to 
escape,  but  that  the  'ice  on  the  shores  of  Uie  river  above 
often  prevents  them  from  obtaining  food,  and  that  they 
are  carried  down  from  mere  inability  to  fly ;  while  others 


<6 


THE  NORTHERN 


aiierC  that  tha7  are  fometimef  seen  voluntarily  ridiug 
aMonf  the  raplde,  and  after  descending  half  way  down 
the  cataract,  taking  wing,  and  returning  to  repeat  their 
daiiMrout  amusement. 

The  most  sublime  scene  is  presented  to  the  observer 
when  he  views  the  cataract  nrom  below ;  and  there  be 
mav  have  an  opportunity  of  going  under  the  cataract. 
This  seen^  <s  represented  in  one  of  the  plates.  To  render 
the  descent  practicable,  a  ijpiral  stair  case  has  been  form* 
ed  a  little  way  flrom  Table  Rock,  supported  by  a  tall  mast ; 
and  the  stranger  descends  without  fear  because  his  view 
is  confined.  On  reaching  the  bottom,  a  rough  path  among 
the  rocks  winds  along  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  although 
the  heaps  of  loose  stones  which  have  fallen  down,  keep 
it  at  a  considerable  height  above  the  water.  A  large  rock 
lies  on  the  very  brink  of  the  river,  about  15  feet  long  and 
8  feet  thick,  which  you  may  climb  up  by  means  of  a  lad- 
der, and  ei^Joy  the  belt  central  view  of  (he  falls  any  where 
to  be  found.  This  rock  was  formerly  a  part  of  the  pro- 
jection above,  and  fell  about  seven  years  ago,  with  a  tre- 
mendous roar.  It  had  been  observed  by  Mr.  Forsyth  to 
be  in  a  very  precarious  situation,  the  day  before,  and  he  had 
warned  the  strangers  at  his  house  not  to  venture  near  it. 
A  lady  and  gentleman,  however,  had  been  so  bold  as  to 
take  thehr  stand  upon  it  near  evening,  to  view  the  cata- 
ract :  and  in  the  night  they  heard  the  noise  of  its  fall, 
whien  shook  the  house  like  an  earthquake. 

In  proceeding  nearer  to  the  sheet  of  falling  water,  the 
path  leads  far  under  the  eicavated  bank,  which  in  one 
place  forms  a  roof  that  overhangs  about  40  feet.  The  vast 
column  of  water  continually  pouring  over  the  precipice, 
produces  violent  whirls  in  the  air ;  and  the  spray  is  driven 
out  with  such  force,  that  no  one  can  approach  to  the  edge 
of  the  cataract,  or  even  stand  a  few  moments  near  it, 
without  being  drenched  to  the  skin.  It  is  also  very  diffi- 
cult 10  breathe  there,  so  that  persons  with  weak  lungs 
would  act  prudently  to  content  themselves  with  a  distant 
yiew,  and  by  no  means  to  attempt  to  go  under  the  cataract. 
Those  who  are  desirous  of  exploring  this  tremendous 
cavern,  should  attend  very  carefully  to  their  steps,  and 
not  allow  themselves  to  be  agitated  bj  the  sight  or  the 
found  of  the  cataract,  or  to  be  blinded  by  the  strong  dri- 


It  I    I  HI      jfcMlMiMO 


urily  ridiug 
way  down 
epeat  their 

le  observer 
id  there  be 
i  cataract. 
To  render 
been  form* 
Uallmast; 
M  his  view 
;>ath  among 
e,  although 
lown,  keep ; 
i  large  rock 
et  long  and 
us  of  a  lad- 
I  any  where 
of  the  pro- 
with  atre- 
Forsyth  to 
,  and  he  had 
ure  near  it. 

bold  as  to 
w  the  cata- 

of  iU  fall, 

;  water,  the 
hich  in  one 
.  The  vast 
e  precipice, 
ay  is  driven 
I  to  the  edge 
ita  near  it, 
0  very  diffi- 
weak  lungs 
th  a  distant 
he  cataract, 
tremendous 

steps,  and 
light  or  the 

strong  dri- 


.^;^l 


-  ',*  ' 


'.  ••-'i. : 


-;,«», 


IffJfV*'"'*!"*'' ',"  "T/T  'JT''  '^ 


1 


■Hf 


».r. 


J^ifr' 


ff    •l>" 


li 


f* 

<■»., 


4*^1^ 


fr 


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^Vf.; 


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^  ^-.■Ai 


,  v'}     ? 


.:^h 


9n 


n^MR  NnRTHRRN 


that  ihttr  n: 

the   in 

i»aen  he  view* 

''i'l  !.,  *r <■•«■!«*  j>  ppn,  ■ 

iii  -.^  imUi  way  Trom  ' 

.!5»!!  i^ti^s  winds . 
t)8»    tteap»  of  lo' 


>'ii  volunlaftly  ifi 
.  :;  baU  Yny  <} 
iiuig   to  rrfet'f  th" 

■\  to  the  ob9ftr*< 
•w  ,■  and  there 
'■ :    tb<*   «'»tarn 

iu'3.     To  rt.)  ' 
Hi  has  bftfjt  Jorr;^ 
i'  hy  ^  taK  n)i»Mt 

-;;{'  path  a«i«5.'. 

CJ.         i   it' ■• 


h  you  may  dimb  up  >>y  meflny;  of  ;\  l*« 
d« !-,  ar  V  (be  best  central  view  of  ihe  fali^  any  wh»- 

i  lorm<'.ilf  a  part  of  the  ( 


i"af«  ogo, 


with 


u  (. 


It 

a 

HvMr. 

Forwyth 

rionn 

»ixu;> 

.. 

■.,»'.-e 

and  be  t>>« 

■  "1 

ii» 

ii')aj«iH  AiH 

f,;>  vcnmrv.  neat  > 

wowe 

bo|<.l  51?   ' 

V  tbe.  i'K 
of  ita  U'i'- 

■    i 


'V 


imitii  iPadf?  fa. 


I »:  t 


ra;:r' 


•jf.  fikUina-  water 


:f  the  fixciivatocl  hank,  wirxh  m  ' 
\jbcf?  f'^rr/k's  a  roof  that  ov«rhRR;»8  al*ot)t  iO  r>et»     Tiif* 
•<u!iij;  'of  water  contir<ria!!y  ju-uring  over  the  precif 
'■■■)n<:  -^  violeni  whiib  \u  «.he  n\r  ;  and  thf  j'prp.y  Ssd  ■ 
i'^  foree,  that  no  tnf«  mni  %ppaniU'h  to  the 
ic*,  or  ev<»ii  «tiind  a  U'lt.  «rt!>mentn  n(j 
"■  f  IrniBg  dr«Tjchft«2  to  the  skm.    It  |«  al»o  very 

vT  brtathe  ibc;r»^,  jio  Ibiu  t.n'»*'^»"'V»ft  «vitb   wcalf  ♦•   ; 

..     '''\  prit<]«^"tly  to  coDten'  »*  •    »•>'  ives  \tith  a  >]»:•> 

^v.„.t. ,  '.;■■.  !»?  150  luean&toHtt*'*^  ^    ■       ■  ur-.dtrtbe.caliiB'a! 

Iff!  Uesirouij  of  fnploriiig  tbi»  tictt*e^«' 
*■   >.i  i  attend  very  (^fiK'-fnUy  la  iheir  sfi^p*,  : 

•■:••-!■» f>:i  to  be  »,?;«ta!:ed  hy  the  sigbt  «>r  • 
•=r.''C<   ar  to  bf;  blifujed  hr  the  »troi?^*  ■■  • 


■ay  »: 

there  '.^' 

I'o  reiuu 
Rf  jt  fofw 
tall  m*»' 
p  lu5  vi«  ' 
ah  i\a  <«•- 

,  u\lliOU<:' 

iargt-,  ro^ 

a  of  ;\  1<^'.' 
any  wht  ' 
>f  the  pv 
;vitb  u  l» 
For»y».h 
tthd  TiiC  b*» 
I  IN.  nps.v 

r    the  i'H^  ' 

of  ila  (*■'■'■ 

ik-h  ill  '  ' 

iif 
»  preci 

to  the  ^■'' . 

>  'vi-ry   ^'  • 

\i\^\i   '■•■'-■' 

h  ri  ..'^      ■ 


I' 


^i< 


stgbt  or  '-'J' 


MIA'UAmA,FTRO:M:  BlBXiOir, 


<%' 


-v'«. 


■v^;- 


..#■■ 


(^ 


V 


TRAVELLER. 


«7 


ving  showers  in  wbich  they  will  be  continually  inrolTed ; 
as  a  few  steps  would  plunge  them  into  the  terrible  abyss 
which  receiTes  the  falling  river. 

The  Burning  Sprino. 

About  half  a  mile  above  the  falls,  and  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  rapids  in  Niagara  River,  is  a  remarkable  Burning 
Spring.  A  house  has  been  erected  over  it,  into  which  ad- 
mission is  obtained  for  a  shilling.  The  water  which  is 
warm,  turbid,  and  surcharged  with  sulphurated  hydrc^ii 
gas,  rises  in  a  barrel  which  has  been  placed  in  th6  ground, 
and  is  constantly  in  a  state  of  ebullition.  The  barrel  is 
covered,  and  the  gas  escapes  only  through  a  copper  tube. 
On  bringing  a  candle  within  a  little  distance  of  it,  the  gas 
takes  fire,  and  continues  to  burn  vrith  a  bright  flame  until 
blown  out.  By  leaving  the  house  closed  and  the  fire  ex- 
tinguished, the  whole  atmosphere  within  explodes  on  en- 
tering with  a  candle. 

While  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  Aills,  the  visiter  may 
vary  his  time  very  agreeably,  by  visiting  the  village  of 
Chippewa  and  Lundy^s  Lane,  in  this  vicinity;  which,  durit^ 
the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  were  the  scenes  of  two 
sharp  contests. 

The  Battle  of  Chippewa. 

In  July,  1814,  the  British  and  American  armies  being 
near  each  other.  Gen.  Ripley  ordered  Gen.  Scott  to  make 
an  advance  on  Chippewa,  on  the  3d  of  July,  with  Capt. 
Tonson*s  division  of  artillery  ;  and  the  enemy's  pickets 
were  soon  forced  to  retire  across  the  bridge.  Gen.  Rip- 
ley came  up  in  the  afternoon  and  encamped  with  Gen. 
Scott's  advance. 

The  stranger  may  be  gratified  by  examining  the  field  of 
these  operations,  by  going  to  Chippewa  Village,  about  two 
miles  above  Forsyth's.  The  American  encampment  of 
July  23d,  is  in  the  rear  of  a  tavern  near  the  road»  about 
a  mile  beyond  Chippewa.  The  following  description  of 
the  battle  is  from  an  account  ahready  published. 

*'  On  the  morning  of  the  4th,  the  British  Indians  had 
filled  the  woods  contiguous  to  the  American  encampment, 


ftS 


THE  NORTHERN 


and  commenced  firing  at  the  pickets.  Reconnoitering 
parties  firom  Chippewa  were  frequently  obserred  during 
the  day  along  the  river  road ;  and  information  was  re- 
ceived that  reinforcements  had  arrived. 

"  On  the  5th,  the  same  course  was  pursued.  The  In- 
dians were  discovered  almost  in  the  rear  of  the  American 
camp.  At  this  moment  Gen.  Porter  arrived  with  his 
volunteers  and  Indians.  General  Brown  immediately  di- 
rected them  to  enter  the  woods  and  effectually  scour  them. 
Gens.  Brown,  Scott,  and  Ripley,  were  at  the  white  house, 
in  advance  reconnoitering.  Gen.  Porter's  corps  seemed 
sweeping  like  a  torrent  every  thing  before  them,  until 
they  almost  debouched  from  the  woods  opposite  Chippe- 
wa. In  a  moment  a  volley  of  musquetry  convinced  Gen. 
Brown  that  the  whole  British  force  had  crossed  the  Chip- 
pewa Bridge,  and  that  the  action  must  become  general. 
He  gave  immediate  orders  to  Gen.  Scott  to  advance,  and 
to  Gen.  Ripley  to  be  in  readiness  to  support.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  British  line  was  dicovered  formed  and  rapidly 
advancing — ^their  r^ht  (the  Royal  Scots)  upon  the  woods, 
and  their  left  (the  prince  regent's)  on  the  river,  with  the 
king's  own  for  their  reserve.  Their  object  was  to  gain 
the  bridge  across  the  creek  in  front  of  the  encampment, 
which,  if  done,  would  have  compelled  the  Americans  to 
retire.  Gen.  Brown  fearing  a  flank  movement  of  the 
enemy  through  the  woods  on  the  left,  with  a  view  to  seize 
the  American  reserve  of  artillery,  directed  Gen.  Ripley 
not  to  advance  until  he  gave  him  orders.  At  the  same 
time  he  rode  to  the  first  line  with  bis  staff  and  an  escort 
of  30  dragoons,  in  order  to  direct  the  whole  movements 
of  the  field,  and  animate  the  troops  by  his  presence. 
Meanwhile  General  Scott,  under  a  most  tremendous  fire 
from  the  enemy's  artillery,  crossed  the  bridge  which  the 
enemy  had  endeavoured  to  gain,  and  formed  his  line. 
The  British  orders  were  to  give  one  volley  at  a  distance, 
and  immediately  charge.  But  such  was  the  warmth  of 
our  musquetry  that  they  could  not  withstand  it.  At  this 
moment  General  Brown  sent  orders  to  Gen.  Ripley  to 
make  a  movement  through  the  woods  upon  the  enemy's 
right  flank.  With  the  21st  regiment  he  passed  a  ravine 
in  his  front,  where  the  men  had  to  wade  up  to  their  chins, 
and  advanced  as  rapidly  as  possible-    But  before  he  com- 


) 


TftAYELLEK. 


89 


inenced  filing  from  the  woods  into  the  open  land  under  the 
enemy's  batteries,  they  had  been  completely  broken  by 
the  cool  bravery  and  discipline  of  Gen.  Scott's  br^de, 
and  precipitated  themselves  across  the  Chippewa  Bridge, 
which  they  broke  down  on  their  retreat.'* 

Although  the  Americans  were  not  able  to  cross  the 
creek,  the  British  thought  proper  to  evacuate  Chippewa 
very  precipitately,  and  to  retreat  towards  Queenston. 

In  this  afihir  the  British  loss,  in  killed,  wounded  and 
missine,  was  614,  and  the  American  loss  339. 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  after  thU  until  the 
S6th  of  the  same  month,  the  date  of 


h 


The  Battle  of  Bridgewater,  or  Lundi's  Lake. 


•^  »  w  <^  v#  ♦■ 


■'■  The  principal  scene  of  this  hard-fought  and  bloody 
adtion  is  about  a  mile  from  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  at  an  oli- 
scure  road,  called  Lundy's  Lane.  Since  their  retreat 
froni  Chippewa,  the  enemy  had  received  reinforcements 
of  troops  from  Lord  Wellington's  army  in  Spain ;  and  on 
the  85th  of  July  encamped  on  a  hill,  tvith  the  design  of 
attacking  the  American  camp  the  next  molrning.  At  6  in 
the  evening.  Gen.  Brown  ordered  Gen.  Scott  to  advance 
and  attack  them,  which  was  immediately  done  ;  and  in 
coiijunetion  with  Gen.  Ripley  the  attack  was  commenced 
in  an  hour.  The  British  were  much  surprised  at  seeing 
the  approach  of  their  enemy  at  this  hour,  not  having  dis- 
covered them  until  they  left  the  woods  and  began  to 
march  across  the  open  level  Aelds  seen  from  Forsyth's 
Hotel,  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  left.  The 
battle  tvas  kept  up  with  great  resolution  on  both  sides, 
until  half  past  ten  at  night.  The  armies,  it  is  said,  were 
within  twenty  yards  of  each  other  for  two  hours,  and 
sometimes  so  mingled  together,  that,  in  spite  of  a  clear 
moon,  platoons  were  sometimes  ordered  by  oflieers  of  the 
other  army. 

The  following  letter,  written  by  a  surgeon  of  one  of  the 
American  regiments,  the  day  after  the  engagement,  con- 
tains some  interestitig  particulars : 

''In  the  arrernoon  the  enemy  advanced  towards  Chip- 

I 


90 


TIIE  NORTHERN 


' 


pewa  with  a  powerful  force.  At  6  oVlock  General  Scott 
was  ordered  to  advance  with  his  brigade  and  attack  them. 
He  was  soon  reinforced  by  General  Ripley's  brigade: 
tbe^  met  the  enemy  below  the  falls.  They  bad  selected 
their  ground  for  the  night,  intending  to  attack  our  camp 
before  daylight.  The  action  began  just  before  7,  and  an 
uninterrupted  stream  of  musketry  continued  till  half  past 
8,  ivhen  there  was  some  cessation,  the  British  falling  back. 
It  soon  began  again  with  some  artillery,  which,  with  slight 
interruptions,  continued  till  half  past  SO,  when  there  was 
a  charge,  and  a  tremendous  stream  of  fire  closed  the  con- 
flict. Both  armies  fought  with  a  desperation  bordering 
on  madness ;  neither  would  yield  the  palm,  but  each  re- 
tired a  short  distance,  wearied  out  with  fatigue.  Such  a 
constant  and  destructive  fire  was  never  before  sustained 
by  American  troops  without  falling  back. 

"The  enemy  had  collected  their  whole  force  in  the 
peninsula,  and  were  reinforced  by  troops  from  Lord  Wel- 
lington's army,  just  landed  from  Kingston.  For  two 
hours  the  two  hostile  lines  were  within  twenty  yards  of 
each  other,  and  so  frequently  intermingled,  that  often  an 
officer  would  order  an  enemy's  platoon.  The  moon 
shone  bright ;  but  part  of  our  men  being  dressed  like  the 
Glengarian  regiment  caused  the  deception.  They  fre- 
quently charged,  and  were  as  often  driven  back.  Our  re- 
giment, under  Colonel  Miller,  was  ordered  to  storm  the 
British  battery.  We  charged,  and  took  every  piece  of  the 
enemy's  cannon.  We  kept  possession  of  the  ground  and 
cannon  until  12  o'clock  at  night,  when  we  all  fell  back 
more  than  two  miles.  This  was  done  to  secure  our 
camp,  which  might  otherwise  have  been  attacked  in  the 
rear.  Our  horses  being  most  of  them  killed,  and  there 
being  no  ropes  to  the  pieces,  we  got  off  but  two  or  three. 
The  men  were  so  excessively  fatigued  they  could  not 
drag  them.  We  lost  one  howitzer,  the  horses  being  on 
full  gallop  towards  the  enemy  to  attack  them,  the  riders 
were  shot  olf  and  the  horses  ran  through  the  enemy's  line. 
We  lost  one  piece  of  cannon,  ivhich  was  too  much  ad- 
vanced, every  man  being  shot  that  had  charge  of  it,  but 
two.  Several  of  our  caissons  were  blown  up  by  their 
rockets,  which  did  some  ii^ury,  and  deprived  our  cannon 


TRAVELLER, 


91 


of  ammunition.    The  lines  were  so  near  that  cannon 
could  not  be  used  with  adrantage." 

The  British  lost,  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
878 ;  and  the  Americans  860. 

,  »       '■      '   -*  ^'» 
'  •  •    ij '    ' 

WELLAND  CANAL. 

In  1825  a  canal  was  begun  on  the  Canada  side  of 
Niagara  falls,  to  connect  the  navigation  of  Lakes  Erie 
and  Ontario,  and  will  be  calculated  for  the  passage  of 
sloops.  The  Chippewa  River  is  to  be  the  feeder,  and  the 
land  presenting  great  facilities,  the  greatest  confidence  is 
indulged  of  its  success.  The  distance  across  is  only  32 
or  33  miles,  and  the  expense  i»  estimated  at  less  than  a 
million  of  pounds  sterling.  300,000/.  of  the  stock  were 
taken  up  in  New- York.  It  is  said,  by  the  Canadians, 
that  this  canal  will  be  accessible  from  Lake  Erie  four  or 
five  weeks  earlier  in  the  spring  than  the  harbour  of  Buffa- 
lo, in  consequence  of  the  ice  being  much  heaped  up  at 
the  latter  place  by  the  current  and  winds. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  make  canals  for  sloop,  naviga- 
tion from  Prescott  to  Montreal.  The  advantages  of  those 
works,  taken  into  view  with  the  Welland,  are  easy  to  esti- 
mate. At  present,  the  transportation  of  1000  staves  from 
Lake  Erie  to  Montreal  costs  $90.  If  all  these  canals 
were  made,  the  cost  would  be  reduced  to  $50.  Sloops, 
carrying  6000  staves,  could  make  six  trips  a  year,  and 
gain  $1800.  A  barrel  of  flour  now  pays  6s.  for  that  dis- 
tance, and  would  pay  only  35.  A  ton  of  merchandise 
now  costs  4/.  55.  for  transportation  between  Prescott  and 
Montreal,  and  would  then  cost  only  U.  7s. 


THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 

We  extract  the  following  account  of  the  great  Western 
Lakes  from  an  essay  published  in  the  New- York  States- 
man: 

1.  The  Ontario  is  180  miles  long,  40  miles  wide,  500 
feet  deep  ;  and  its  surface  is  computed  at  218  feet  above 
the  elevation  of  tide  water  at  Three  Rivers,  270  miles  be- 
low Gape  Vincent. 


«9 


THE  NORTHERN 


2.  Erie  is  270  miles  lon^,  60  miles  wide,  200  feet  deep ; 
and  its  surface  is  ascertained  to  be  565  feet  above  tide 
water  at  Albany. 

3.  Huron  is  250  miles  long,  100  miles  average  breadth, 
900  feet  deep';  and  its  surface  is  near  595  feet  above  the 
tide  water. 

4.  Michigan  is  400  miles  long,  50  wide,  depth  unknown ; 
elevation  the  same  as  Huron. 

5.  Green  Bay  is  about  l05  miles  long,  20  miles  wide, 
depth  unknown ;  elevation  the  same  as  Huron  and  Michi- 
gan- 

6.  Lake  Superior  is  450  miles  long,  109  miles  average 

width,  900  feet  deep ;  and  its  surface  1048  feet  above  the 
tide  water. 

Hence  it  is  easy  to  calculate  that  the  bottom  of  Lake 
Erie  is  not  as  low  as  the  jToot  of  Niagara  Falls ;  but  the 
bottom  of  each  of  the  other  lakes,  it  will  be  observed,  is 
lower  than  the  surface  of  ihe  ocean. 

Lake  Superior  is  the  head  fountain,  the  grand  reservoir 
of  the  mighty  voluipe  that  fills  the  rivers,  expands  the 
lakes,  and  roars  over  the  cataracts  of  Niagara,  St.  Law- 
rence, &c.  After  making  a  semicircle  of  five  degrees  to 
the  south,  accommodating  and  enrichine  one  of  ue  most 
fertile  and  interesting  sections  of  the  globe,  it  meets  the 
tide  a  distance  of  2000  miles  from  its  source,  and  5000 
from  the  extreme  point  of  its  estuary,  on  the  Atlantic 
<:oast. 


■rt;.a    ;•:) 


General  Remarks. 


There  was,  perhaps,  no  part  of  our  frontier  where  the 
war  was  regarded  with  so  much  dislike  and  dread  as  here. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  Canada  were  emi* 
grants  from  New^York,  New- Jersey,  and  Pennsylvania, 
and  a  constant  intercourse  kept  up  across  the  river  has 
united  the  people  on  both  sides  like  one  people.  M«^ny 
of  the  militiamen  who  were  here  called  into  action  Vj  the 
invasion  of  their  territory,  had  friends  and  family  relations 
in  the  opposite  army ;  so  that  the  contest  was  fjo  them  a 
civil  war  in  its  effects,  divested  of  all  the  impulse  of 
passion. 


TRAVELLER. 


93 


A  little  attetition  to  the  appearance  and  laitgdage  of  the 
'  l^ople,  and  their  various  manners  and  customs,  will  show 
that  they  are  collected  from  many  different  regions,  and 
have  amalgamated  very  imperfectly.  At  the  close  of  the 
revolutionary  war,  the  British  government  offered  great 
encouragement  to  settlers  on  this  tract  of  country,  fVom 
whatever  districts  they  might  come.  The  situation  of 
the  place  necessarily  excludes  all  distant  intercourse  with 
other  parts  of  the  country ;  and  the  original  manners 
have  therefore  remained  with  little  alteration.  There 
are  some  Germans  from  Europe,  and  many  from  Penn- 
sylvania, mingled  with  people  from  New- York  and  New- 
Jersey  ;  and  their  descent  is  often  apparent  from  their 
countenances  and  dialect,  as  well  as  the  aspect  of  their 
dwellings  and  farms.  There  is  a  village  a  little  removed 
from  the  high  road,  where  little  else  but  German  is 
spoken. 

The  Ferrt  across  Niagara  river  is  about  half  a  mile 
below  the  falls,  and  may  be  crossed  at  any  hour  in  the 
4ay,  without  danger,  notwithstanding  the  rapidity  of  the 
current.  The  descent  from  the  bank  is  so  steep,  that  it 
has  been  necessary  to  build  a  stair-case. 

,  ,     TO  BUFFALO,  ON  THE  CANADA  SIDE,       i 

28^  miles.  i , 

To  Chippewa,  2  miles. 

Waterloo,  (Fort  Erie,)  16 

(Over  the  ferry  to  Black  Rock,  25  cents  each  passenger.) 
Buffalo,  2^ 

Opposite  Buffalo,  in  Waterloo^  are  the  remains  of  Fort 
Erie,  a  fortress  of  great  consequence  in  the  late  war. 
There  are  the  remains  of  a  strong  wall,  surrounded  with 
entrenchments  reaching  to  the  lake.  The  remains  of  the 
British  camp  are  also  seen,  and  the  trees  are  still  wounded 
ivitb  shot. 

Battle  of  Erie.  On  the  17tb  of  September,  1814, 
a  severe  action  was  fought  at  a  little  distance  from  Fort 
Erie,  when  part  of  the  American  garrison,  1000  regulars 
and  1000  militia,  made  a  sortie,  and  took  the  British 
works,  about  500  yards  in  front  of  their  line.  The  Bri- 
tish had  two  batteries  on  their  left,  which  annoyed  the 
fort,  and  were  about  opening  a  third.    Their  camp  was 

12 


94 


THE  NORTHERN 


about  two  miles  distant,  sheltered  by  a  wood :  their  works 
were  garrisoned  with  one-third  of  their  infantry,  from  12 
to  15^  men,  and  a  detachment  of  artillery. 

Gen.  Porter  with  the  volunteers,  CoL  Gibson  with  the 
riflemen,  and  M^j.  Brooks  with  the  23d  and  21st  light  infan- 
try, and  a  few  dismounted  dragoons,  were  sent  from  the 
extreme  left  of  the  American  position,  by  a  passage  cut 
through  the  woods,  towards  the  enemy's  right ;  and  Gen. 
Miller  was  stationed  in  the  ravine  between  the  fort  and 
the  enemy's  batteries  ;  while  Gen.  Ripley  had  a  reserve 
under  the  bastions. 

A  little  before  3  P.  M>  the  left  columns  commenced 
their  attack  on  the  enemy's  right,  and  Gen.  Miller  at  the 
same  time  pushed  forward  between  Nos.  2  and  3  of  the 
batteries,  broke  their  line,  and  took  their  two  block 
houses.  Battery  No.  1  was  soon  after  deserted,  and  the 
guns  were  spiked ;  and  the  mi^azine  of  No.  3  was  blown 
up.  Gen.  Ripley  was  wounded,  and  Col.  Gibson  killed. 
The  action  lasted  about  an  hour,  which  gave  time  for  the 
remaining  two-thirds  of  the  enemy's  force  to  march  from 
their  camp  and  partake  in  it.  The  Americans  at  length 
retired  with  prisoners,  having  succeeded  in  their  object. 
The  British  suffered  so  much,  that  Lieut.  Gen.  Drummond 
broke  up  his  camp  on  the  21st,  and  retired  to  his  en- 
trenchments behind  the  Chippewa  River. 

General  Remarks  on  Upper  Canada.  This  exten- 
sive district  has  begun  to  increase  in  population  with 
great  rapidity,  and  great  exertions  are  making  to  intro- 
duce improvements  of  various  kinds.  The  Weiland  Ca- 
nal, which  has  already  been  spoken  of,  promises  advan- 
tages of  great  importance  to  the  colonies ;  and,  as  has  been 
before  remarked,  threatens  to  take  off  much  of  the  trans- 
portation from  the  western  part  of  the  New- York  Erie 
Canal. 

Emigration  has  been  so  much  encouraged  by  the  Bri- 
tish government,  for  the  peopling  of  this  part  of  their 
possessions,  that  great  numbers  of  Irish,  Scotch,  and 
English,  have  come  over  within  a  few  years.  In  the  7  years 
preceding  1823,  68,000  emigrants  arrived  at  Quebec;  and 
in  1825, 9000 ;  of  whom  one-third  settled  in  Lower  Cana- 
da, and  one-third  went  to  the  United  States.  The  popu- 
lation of  Lower  Canada  was  then  420,679. 


THAVELLEK.  9b 

According  to  Fothergiirs  report,  there  were,  in  Upper 
Canada,  989,294  acres  of  cultivated  land ;  erist  mUls, 
304;  saw  mills,  386;  merchant  stores,  394;  houses, 
30,774 ;  oxen,  27,644 ;  milch  cows,  67,000 ;  calves, 
35,000;  390  townships  surveyed,  containing  in  all  17 
million  acres  ;  about  two  millions  wild  lands ;  diistillers* 
duty,  $46,000.  >i 

The  charasteristic  of  that  part  of  Upper  and  Lower 
Canada  seen  on  the  usual  routes  of  travellers,  is  its  flat- 
ness and  monotonous  aspect.  Between  the  two  great 
lakes  there  is  some  variety  of  surface  ;  but  the  view  from 
Queenston  heights  towards  the  east  embraces  a  vast 
plain,  almost  as  level  as  the  water  itself,  and  still  more 
extensive.  The  surface  is,  in  many  places,  taried  by 
gentle  elevations  and  depressions,  but  not  sufficiently  to 
make  it  appear  uneven  from  a  distance. 

TO  BUFFALO,  ON  THE  AMERICAN  SIDE,     * 

30s  miles. 

Tonnewanta  Creek,  where  the  canal  passes 11  miles. 

Black  Rock 10         i 

Buffalo 21 

TO  FORT  GEORGE, 

14  miles.  ! 

Queenston 7     "» *' 

Fort  George 7 

[The  route  from  Niagara  to  ^Hhanyand  the  Springs  will 
be  taken  up  after  the  route  to  Montreal.] 


-i.i' 


u 


• '  (  :    ' 


M 


THE  NOllTUEUN 


ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL^ 
tfftt  392  miles. 

Tboie  who  have  never  travelled  through  the  state  of 
New- York,  and  have  leinure  to  make  so  circuitous  a  route, 
will  prefer  to  go  to  Buffalo,  Lockport,  or  Rochester,  and 
take  the  line  oithe  Erie  Canal,  the  Springs,  Lake  Geoi^e, 
nnd  Lake  Cbamplain,  in  their  way  to  Montreal.  Many, 
however,  will  prefer  to  take  the  more  direct  route,  which 
if  by  the  steam  boats  through  Lake  Ontario,  and  is  per- 
formed in  about  two  days.  The  American  boat  goes  from 
Fort  Niagara  to  Ogdensburgh,keoping  towards  the  southern 
shore,  and  touching  at  the  principal  ports.  The  British 
boat  makes  a  few  stops,  but  steers  a  course  very  near  the 
middle  of  the  lake,  which  is  the  boundary  between  the 
two  countries  t  she  is  URually  out  of  sight  of  land  about 
twelve  hours. 

The  British  Boat  goes  from  Queenston  to  Prescott ; 
thence  a  stage  coach  to  Cornwall,  50  miles ;  Coteau  du 
Lac,  steam  boat,  36 ;  Cascades,  coach,  16 }  Lachine, 
steam  boat,  33 ;  Montreal,  coach,  9. 

American  Boat. 

Port  Genbsbk,  72  m.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee 
River,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  delivery.  Here  is  a  custom 
house,  and  the  village  of  Charlotte,  in  Monroe  county.  This 
river  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  and  runs  a  gently  winding 
course  about  125  miles  in  the  state  of  New- York.  It  is 
navigable  only  four  miles  from  its  mouth,  to  Carthage, 
where  the  banks  are  high,  rocky,  and  perpendicular ;  and 
there  is  a  fine  fall  (104  feet,  including  the  rapids,  &c.) 
about  half  a  mile  above.  Stage  coaches  are  in  waiting 
for  Rochester,  6  miles.     See  Carthage,  page  76. 

Great  Sodus  Bat,  35  m.  Here  are  three  bays  in  suc- 
cession :  Sodus,  East,  and  Port  Bays.  There  are  three 
Islands,  and  Port  Glasgow  is  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  only 
10^  miles  from  Clyde,  on  the  canal,  with  a  good  road 
to  it, 

OswRoo,  S8  m.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Oswego  River,  and  has  a  good  harbour,  with  10  feet  water. 
Navigation  ends  half  a  mile  above,  except  for  boats, 


TUAVELLEK. 


whicli  go  12  miles  further.  A  very  large  button-wood 
tree,  35|  feet  in  circumference,  a  mile  from  tlie  village 
near  the  road.  Thi«  place  is  36  miles  from  Salina,  with 
which  it  is  to  be  connected  by  a  canal.  It  is  apprehended, 
however,  that  such  a  work,  which  has  been  already  com- 
menced, will  draw  off  a  great  deal  of  the  transportation 
from  that  part  of  the  Erie  Canal,  west,  into  Lake  Onta- 
rio, and  the  Welland  Canal  round  Niagara  Falls. 

OswEOo  Fort,  so  fouious  in  the  history  of  the  French 
and  revolutionary  wars,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  The  situation  was  very  advantageous  for  the  com- 
mand of  a  large  extent  of  country,  as  this  river  is  the 
common  outlet  of  all  the  interior  lakes  of  the  state* 
White  this  post  was  held  alternately  by  the  Freqch  and 
English,  they  could  command  a  grea^  part  of  the  trade 
with  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians,  Mfpo  inhabited  |t|i$ 
country  with  which  it  communicated. 

Fort  Oswego  is  elevated  only  about  50  feet  Arom  the 
level  of  the  w^ter ;  and  being  oyeripoked  by  the  emini^nce 
on  which  Fort  Ontario  w&s  afterwards  erected,  was  fit  only 
for  a  defence  in  early  times.  A  trading  house  was  built 
here  in  |722,  and  a  fort  ^ve  years  after.  T%v  was  ex- 
tended in  the  beginning  of  the  French  war  of  1755,  when 
Fort  Ontario  was  built.  On  the  following  ye^r.  Gen. 
Montcey|m  came  from  Canada,  and  besieged  the  fortresses 
with  3000  troops,  and  two  vessels.  Fort  Ontario  was 
evacuated  after  one  attack  ;  and  on  the  following  day, 
August  14th,  JFort  Oswego  sprrendered  to  the  French, 
with  a  large  quantity  of  stores  brought  at  great  expanse 
through  the  wilderness,  and  21  cannon,  14  mortars,  &o. 
also,  2  sloops,  and  about  200  boats.  The  captors,  how- 
ever, did  not  think  proper  to  hold  the  position,  but  imme- 
diately abandoned  it. 

Col.  St.  Leger  attempted  to  approach  Albany  by  this 
route,  in  1777,  in  order  to  co-operate  with  Gen.  Burgoyne ; 
but  he  was  repulsed  at  Fort  Stanwix  by  Col.  Fish,  and 
obliged  to  return. 

In  1814,  on  the  6tb  of  May,  the  British  attacked  the 
place,  and  after  a  loss  of  about  100  men,  got  possession 
of  it,  but  evacuated  it  the  next  day. 

Sackett*s  Harbour,  40  m.  Settled  in  1801.  In  the  late 


98 


THB  NORTHERN 


war,  it  became  an  important  naval  station,  and  increased 
▼ery  rapidly.  It  is  8  miles  distant  from  the  lake,  on 
Hounsloir  Baj.  The  harbour  is  divided  into  two  by  a 
narrow  point,  and  offeu  {vreat  advantages  for  ship  build- 
ing. A  first  rate  man-of-war  is  still  unfinished,  on  the 
stocks,  under  a  shelter,  and  another  at  Black  River.  On 
the  shore  are  seen  the  stone  Barraeka,  which  enclose 
about  ten  acres  of  ground. 

Gapb  Vincbmt,  90  m.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  here  divided 
by  Grand  Island.  Kinnton,  in  U.  Canada,  lies  opposite, 
at  the  distance  of  11  miles. 

MoRRiSTOWN.  This  is  a  small  village,  10  miles  from 
Ogdensburg.  The  river  is  a  little  more  than  a  mile  in 
breadth,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  Brockville.  There  is  a 
number  of  rocky  islands  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the 
gentle  slope  of  the  land  on  the  New- York  shore,  adds 
a  great  degree  of  beauty  to  the  scene. 
General  Wilkinson  embarked  at  this  place  in  1813. 
OoDENfteUROH,  formerly  Oswegatchie.  This  is  the  end 
of  the  navigation,  and  here  the  steam  boat  stops.  The 
Tillage  is  pretty,  contains  some  lai|;e  stores,  and  carries 
on  considerable  business.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river 
is  Prescott,  where  the  British  steam  boat  stops.  The 
ruins  of  Fort  Oswegolc^te,  or  Fort  Presentation,  may  still 
be  traced.  It  was  not  very  lai^e,  and  contalhed  only  a 
bomb-proof,  two  buildings  of  stone,  barracks,  &c.  It  was 
built  in  the  beginning  or  middle  of  the  last  century.  Grapes 
are  cultivated  here  with  great  success. 

The  Thousand  Islands  are  a  most  beautiful  part  of 
the  navigation,  presenting  themselves  in  every  variety  of 
forms,  though  never  rising  to  any  great  elevation.  They 
might  be  compared  with  the  islands  of  Lake  George. 

Gallop  Islands,  5  m.  Here  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence begin.  A  number  of  mills  will  be  seen  at  different 
places  on  the  shore.  On  Stony  Island  was  a  fort  of  some 
consequence,  which  was  taken  by  Gen.  Amherst  on  his 
way  to  Montreal,  in  the  year  1760. 

St.  Rrois,  64  m.    The  Indian  tribe  which  bears  this 
iiame  iMtve  a  reservation  of  land  here  1 1  miles  by  3. 
Lachine,  53  m.    (See  Index.) 
Montreal,  9  m.  /^^   ? 


creased 
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enclose 

diyided 
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es  firom 
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813. 
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the  river 
ps.  The 
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.  It  was 
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1  part  of 
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rge. 

St.  Law- 
different 
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iars  this 
3. 


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Inns 
The  I 
and 
rising 
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out  uj 
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all  trei 
in  1811 
ivhicfa 
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ground! 
a  publi/ 


TRAVELLER,    f 


^ 


.  i    li'ittst 


:\fiik-^l'i} 


ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 


I  -ITT 


Black  Rock  is  a  pleasant  village  situated  on  the  mar" 
gin  of  Niagara  River,  a  little  waj  from  its  head,  and  op- 
posite Squaw  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Lake  Erie.  It  was 
burnt  by  the  British  during  the  war  in  1814,  but  has  since 
been  rebuilt  and  increased  to  a  much  greater  size.  Con- 
gress have  voted  a  remuneration  for  losses  on  this  fron- 
tier. Gen.  Porter  has  a  iSne  house  in  this  place.  Black 
Rock  long  disputed  with  Buffalo  the  privilege  of  having 
the  Basin  of  the<:!anal  built  in  her  harbour,  and  at  last 
obtained  it.  A  pier  about  two  miles  in  length  was  built 
to  secure  the  boats  and  vessels  from  the  waves  of  the 
lake,  as  well  as  to  raise  the  water  for  the  supply  of  the 
canal  to  Tonnewanta  Creek. 

All  this  expense,  however,  is  now  considered  as  lost : 
for  the  swiftess  of  the  current  in  the  river,  and  the  heap- 
ing up  of  the  ice  on^  tbe  shores,  prove  great  obstacles  to 
the  navigation.  In  consequence.  Black  Rock  suddenly 
stopped  its  growth,  and  in  1S25,  only  one  house  was  built 
in  the  village,  while  70  were  erected  the  «ame  year  in 
Buffalo. 

• ,.  14.     ^  ,.,     - 

BUFFALO,  3  miles  from  Black  Rock. 

Inks. — The  Es^le  Tavern  ;  and  three  other  large  ones. 

The  situation  of  this  village  is  remarkably  convenient 
and  agreeable,  occupying  a  long  bill  of  a  gentle  ascent, 
rising  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  lake.  The 
principal  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  looking 
out  upon  Lake  Erie  to  the  horizon,  and  is  ornamented 
with  several  fine  blocks  of  brick  stores  and  handsome 
dwelling  houses,  together  with  several  public  buildings, 
all  Erected  since  the  burning  of  the  village  by  the  British 
in  1814,  as  well  as  the  buildings  in  the  other  streets, 
which  are  fast  increasing  every  year.  In  April,  1814, 
only  one  houae  was  standing  in'^the  village,  that  of  a 
widow  in  the  upper  part  of  the  street.  A  large  piece  of 
ground  has  been  left  vacant  in  tbe  middle  of  the  town  for 
a  public  square,  where  several  important  roads  meet,  and 


f 


100 


THE  NORTHERN 


which  it  b  intended  to  ornament  with  public  edifices.  A 
walk  has  also  been  laid  out  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  to- 
wards the  Lake.  This  is  called  the  Terrace,  and  affords 
a  charming  view  upon  the  lake,  the  harbour,  and  the 
canal,  to  Black  Rock.  In  1825,  a  small  village  grew  up 
below  the  Terntce,  6  taverns  being  built,  with  65  other 
houses,  before  which  there  was  but  one  house.  One  of 
them  will  accommodate  200  persons.  The  largest  store 
in  the  state  is  believed,  to  be  one  of  these  which  is  90  feet 
by  70,  and  3  stories  bigh.  The  township  was  found  to 
contain  6000  inhabitants  that  year. 

The  harbour  of  Buffalo  is  singularly  fitted  by  n&tore  for 
the  junction  of  the  two  kinds  of  navigation  which  are  here 
brought  together;  the  entrance  from  the  Lake  being  shel< 
tereaby  the  noint  on  which  the  light  house  is  erected,  and 
the  two  small  rivers  which  here  unite  their  waters,  af- 
fording every  convenience  for  landing  and  re^ipping 
goods.  The  shores  of  these  are  very  bold,  and  they  are 
connected  by  a  natural  channel,  which  serves  the  pur- 
poses of  a  basin,  as  well  as  of  an  easy  communication ; 
and  as  the  canal  to  Black  Rock  commences  close  by  it, 
the. inland  transportation  begins  withotit  more  ado. 

The  Canal  to  Black  Rock  is  dug  near  the  shore  of  tlie 
Lake.  The  first  part  of  it  is  through  a  low,  sandy  level, 
where  the  excavations  were  much  impeded  by  the  water 
which  soaked  through  in  great  abundance.  About  half  a 
mile  from  Buffalo,  the  workmen  bit  upon  a  bed  of  old 
half-decayed  trees,  which  was  dug  into  to  the  depth  of 
six  feet,  and  extended  about  half  a  mite.  Many  branches 
and  logs  were  discovered,  which  preserved  all  the  grain 
of  the  wood,  but  the  greater  part  was  a  black  mass  of 
matter,  which,  on  being  dried,  burned  with  great  readi- 
ness. In  some  places,  ashes  and  coals  were  found ;  and 
some  of  the  logs  appeared  to  have  been  washed  and  roll* 
ed  by  the  water  of  the  lake  before  they  were  buried. 
Beyond  this  place  is  a  bed  of  silicious  rock,  which  re- 
quired much  labour  and  expense  in  cutting  and  blastin;: 
through  it. 

Lake  Erie  is  5G5  feet  above  tide  water. 


•li 


..  << 


TRAVELLER. 


101 


VOYAGE  UP  LAKE  ERIE. 

At  Buffalo  opens  a  very  extensive  route,  for  those  ivho 
are  disposed  to  travel  still  ^tber  westward.  There  is 
little  to  be  seen  along  either  shore  of  the  Lake,  which 
would  reward  a  comuiun  traveller  for  the  tedium  of  a 
long  ride  over  a  country  generally  level,  or  for  the  incon- 
veniences he  would  experience  from  the  want  of  public 
accommodations,  and  even  the  frequent  absence  of  set- 
tlements. The  only  mode  of  travelling,  therefore,  is  by 
water  ;  and  great  numbers  of  passengers  pass  every  sea- 
son between  this  port  and  the  principal  towns  on  the 
Lake,  chiefly  in  the  steam  boats.  The  price  of  a  passage 
to  Detroit  in  the  cabin  is  $15,  and  in  the  steerage,  where 
nothing  is  supplied  but  ship  room  and  access  to  the  kitch- 
en, half  price.  The  following  are  the  stopping  places  on 
tho  passage  to  Detroit,  with  their  distances. 

From  Buffalo  to  Erie,  .....< 90  miles. 

Erie*  to  Grand  River, 75    '  >    > 

Grand  River  to  Gleaveland, 30 

Cleaveland  to  Sandusky, 60    > 

Sandusky  to  Detroit, • 75 

Total  330.-. 

Green  Bat,  on  Lake  Huron,  is  interesting  as  a  position 
occupied  by  a  military  garrison,  and  the  seat  of  a  large 
number  of  Indians,  for  whose  improvement  some  exer- 
tions have  been  recently  made.  The  principal  tribe  resi- 
ding there  is  the  Menominie,  ur  Wild  Rice  Indians,  who 
are  both  numerous  and  powerful,  and  partly  civilized. 
They  have  recently  received  an  addition  to  their  num 
bers  by  having  been  joined  by  tho  remnant  of  the  Stock- 
bridge  tribe,  to  whom  they  have  offered  a  share  of  their 


*  The  Ohio  Canal  is  to  bt^giii  at  the  mouth  of  Scioto  River, 
I'oUowing  up  its  course,  cross  to  the  Muskingum,  and  follow 
*hnt  %Umm  to  Lake  Erie.    (See  Oaxetkfir  of  Ohio.) 

K 


102 


THE  NORTHERN 


land.  The  latter  are  civilized  In  such  a  degree  as  to  have 
pretty  good  farms,  and  to  practice  some  of  the  mechanic 
arts,  though  they  principally  depend  on  hunting  and  fish- 
ing, particularly  the  latter,  which  is  very  important  to 
them. 


Ancient  Fortifications. 


On  Buffalo  Creek,  and  towards  Genesee  River  abo,  are 
several  large  and  interesting  remnants  of  Ancient  Forti- 
fications ;  but  as  they  lie  off  the  road,  few  travellers  will 
visit  them.  They  appear  to  form  part  of  a  great  chain 
of  defensive  works  extending  from  the  eastern  part  cf 
Lake  Ontario,  along  that  Lake  and  Erie,  down  the  Ohio 
and  Mississippi  Rivers  to  Meifico.  This  is  the  opinion  of 
Mr.  Atwater,  of  Circieville,  Ohio,  who  has  published 
some  very  interesting  details,  drawings,  &c.  connected 
with  them,  in  his  **  Archaeologia  Americana."  A  line  of 
old  forts  extends  from  Cataraugus  Creek,  50  miles,  along 
the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  to  the  line  of  Pennsylvania. 
They  are  on  the  borders  of  creeks  and  old  bays,  although 
now  from  2  to  5  miles  distant  from  the  Lake,  which  is 
supposed  to  have  retired  that  distance  since  they  were 
built.  Another  similar  line  is  said  to  exist  in  the  rear  of 
them,  on  another  parallel  elevation - 

Much  curiosity  and  speculation  have  been  called  forth 
by  these  singular  monuments  of  antiquity.  Some  regard 
them  as  marks  of  a  civilized  people ;  others  as  the  woriis 
of  Indian  tribes.  Some  traces  of  a  tradition  referring 
them  to  the  latter  are  said  to  have  been  lately  discovered. 

Seneca  Castle.  The  Seneca  nation  possess  a  lai'ge 
and  valuable  tract  of  land  adjoining  Buffalo  on  the  east, 
and  they  have  two  villages  3  and  5  miles  on  the  road. 
The  Senecas  are  the  westernmost  tribe  in  the  confederacy 
of  the  Five  Nations,  and  have  always  held  a  con»picuous 
rank  in  their  history.  They  were  formerly  considered  the 
most  numerous  and  powerful  tribe,  and  preserved  this 
superiority  until  the  fatal  defeat  they  received  from  Gen. 
Schuyler,  in  1778,  since  which  they  have  made  a  less 
conspicuous  figure. 

The  residence  of  this  nation  after  they  fled  from  Cana^ 


,/t 


j<*e^' 


TRAVELLER. 


193 


da,  before  their  enemies  the  Adirondacs,  was  principally 
upon  the  shores  of  Seneca  Lake,  though  their  lands  ex- 
tended to  Niagara  River  and  north  of  Lake  Erie,  of  which 
they  long  had  the  command.  They  are  now  reduced  to 
a  few  hundred,  some  of  them  residing  here,  and  some  in 
other  Indian  villages  farther  east.  Besides  the  land  they 
possess,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  fertility,  the  nation 
are  in  possession  of  a  large  sum  in  the  United  States 
Bank  stock,  the  dividend  for  which  they  receive  annually. 

The  most  remarkable  person  of  the  Seneca  nation 
now  living,  is  the  famous  Red  Jacket,  who  inhabits  a 
small  log  house,  in  a  very  retired  situation,  about  four 
miles  from  Buffalo,  and  one  mile  north  of  the  road  through 
the  reservation.  He  has  rendered  himself  conspicuous 
for  many  years  by  his  eloquence,  and  formerly  possessed 
an  extensive  influence  over  his  countrymen.  But  he  is 
now  old  and  poor,  and  worse  still,  not  too  temperate. 
He  has  always  maintained  a  resolute  opposition  to  the  in- 
troduction of  the  Christian  religion  among  his  nation, 
and  once  succeeded  in  excluding  all  ministers  from 
entering  the  reservation.  This  was  done  by  the  authori- 
ty of  the  state  under  a  regulation  intended  to  guard 
against  the  admission  of  ill*disposed  persons,  who  are  al- 
ways found  ready  to  impose  upon  the  Indians,  get  them 
in  their  power,  and  endeavour,  by  fomenting  uneasiness, 
as  well  as  by  threats  and  promises,  to  induce  them  to  re- 
move and  leave  their  lands. 

BiLLT  is  another  verv  old  man  of  the  tribe,  and  of  a 
character  very  different  from  that  of  Red  Jacket.  He  is 
a  good  orator,  but  his  real  worth  as  well  as  his  influence, 
depends  on  the  more  substantial  qualities  of  a  sincere  and 
consistent  Christian.  His  example,  and  the  instruction 
for  some  time  enjoyed  in  the  nation,  have  produced  great 
effects  on  a  portion  of  the  families.  The  traveller  will 
observe  several  farms  under  a  degree  of  cultivation,  and 
may  meet  with  individuals  who  conform  pretty  nearly  to 
the  English  style  of  dress,  and  have  introduced  some  of 
our  customs  into  their  houses.  The  greater  part  of  them| 
however,  speak  no  language  but  Indian.  ' 


104 


THE  NORTHERN 


Stage  Road  from  Buffalo  to  Camandaigua. 


The  first  few  miles  of  this  road  present  very  little  in-> 
terest ;  15  or  2t)  miles  of  it  pass  over  an  old  causeway  of 
iogs,  arid  the  country  for  that  distance  is  a  forest,  with 
hardly  knj  signs  of  inhabitants.  The  logs  make  the  tra- 
velling rough  and  disagreeable ;  but  as  they  are  gradually 
covered  over  with  earth,  the  difficulties  are  lessening 
every  year.  To  those  who  are  not  accustomed  to  a  coun- 
try so  new  and  wild  as  this,  a  word  or  two  may  not  be 
amiss  on  the  manner  in  which  roads  are  first  made  in  an 
American  settlement.  In  thick  forests,  the  surface  of  the 
ground  is  covered  to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  feet  with  the 
roots  of  trees,  which  are  extremely  ifficuit  to  be  re* 
moved,  and  are  very  dangerous  for  horses  or  oxen  to  pass 
over.  A  close  layer  of  logs,  although  itself  sufficiently 
rough,  forms  a  much  safer  and  more  convenient  path, 
and  is  usually  adopted  with  great  advantage.  There  is 
another  reason  for  it — the  elevation  of  the  road  above 
the  common  surface,  secures  it  from  being  overflowed  by 
the  water,  which  in  thf>  moist  seasons  of  the  year  would 
impede  the  travelling  in  low  and  marshy  places.  When 
the  logs  decay,  they  are  apt  to  form  bad  ruts  and  holes, 
which  should  be  filled  with  earth  or  gravel.  Indeed,  the 
usual  practice  is,  as  the  road  becomes  more  travelled,  and 
the  inhabitants  increase,  to  cover  it  all  with  a  thick  bed 
of  earth  ;  and  roads  thus  formed  are  proverbial  for  their 
excellence. 

BATAVIA,  40  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  very  handsome 
village,  and  contains  the  residence  of  Mr.  Otto,  the  Agent 
of  the  Holland  Land  Company,  as  well  as  the  county 
buildings,  and  the  house  of  Mr.  Elliot,  the  former  agent 
of  the  above-mentioned  company. 

At  LEROY,  10  miles,  a  number  of  curious  stones  were 
discovered  in  1824,  which  were  at  first  supposed  to  be 
petrified  Sea  Turtles.  They  were  found  in  the  bed  of 
Allen's  Creek,  about  200  yards  north  of  the  village  bridge, 
and  usually  weighed  from  one  to  three  or  four  hundred 


TRAVELLER. 


105 


pounds,  aUhough  some  have  been  picked  up  in  another 
place  in  the  neighbourhood,  not  much  larger  than  a  man's 
hand.  Several  were  found  imbedded  in  the  lime  stone 
rock  through  which  the  stream  has  cut  its  way,  luring  ho- 
rizontally, yet  evidently  of  an  older  formation.  They 
consist  of  a  dark  coloured  bituminous  lime  stone,  which 
readily  splits  in  the  middle,  and  betrays  a  number  of 
whitish  crystalline  veins,  traversing  each  other  nearly  at 
right  angles,  and  growing  thicker  in  the  middle,  and  often 
containing  a  quantity  of  yellow  clay,  or  ochre,  with  a  few 
holes  filled  with  a  bituminous  oily  substance  which  flows 
out.  These  stones  certainly  are  very  curious  specimens, 
but  the  original  theory  ia  not  likely  to  be  received. 

The  Wadsworth  Farm  at  Geneseo,  is  so  far  and  so 
justly  famed  for  its  size  and  fertility,  and  still  more  for 
the  admirable  system  of  cultivation  under  which  it  is  car- 
ried on,  that  every  man  of  taste  who  passes  this  way,  will 
find  great  gratification  in  stopping  to  see  it,  particularly 
if  he  is  personally  interested  in  the  improvement  of  agri- 
culture. 

Mr.  Wads  worth's  farm  contains  about  4000  acres« 
about  1700  of  which  are  rich  alluvial  land  on  the  banks 
of  the  Genesee  River.  He  combines  science  with  prac- 
tical knowledge  in  tbe  management  of  it  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  eigoy  the  proper  benefits  of  both  ;  while  he  studies  to 
introduce  all  valuable  improvements,  he  is  careful  to  pre- 
serve every  method  which  experience  has  proved  really 
valuable.  Time  is  here  most  systematically  divided,  and 
labour  is  carefully  saved  in  every  case  where  an  ingenious 
machine  or  a  wise  expedient  can  be  resorted  to  with  ad- 
vantage. Various  branches  of  agriculture  have  been 
tried  on  this  fertile  tract  of  country  ;  but  the  raising  of 
sheep  has  been  found  the  most  profitable,  and  the  farm 
has  been  almost  entirely  converted  into  mowing  fields 
and  pastures. 

The  residence  of  tbe  proprietor  is  in  a  fine  and  spacious 
building,  in  a  commanding  situation  ;  and  the  whole  as- 
pect of  the  farm  indicates  the  good  order  and  method  with 
which  it  is  conducted. 

The  Genesee  meadows  were  formerly  the  residence  of 
a  large  tribe  of  Indiana  of  the  Seneca  nation ;  and  when 
Gen.  SuUivan  reached  this  place  in  his  march  through  the 

K2 


106 


THE  NORTHERN 


country,  he  found  and  burnt  a  considerable  village  of  120 
log  houses,  on  the  second  bank,  which  had  been  deserted 
at  his  approach.  One  of  his  scouts  was  cut  off  while  his 
army  was  near  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  and  only  one 
man  escaped ;  but  the  Indians  constantly  fled  as  ht-  ap- 
proached, and  there  was  no  fighting  in  all  this  western  part 
of  the  state.  A  large  tract  of  fine  land  adjoining  the 
Wadsworth  farm  is  now  possessed  by  a  woman  belonging 
to  the  Seneca  nation.  She  is  called  *'  the  Indian  White 
Woman,''*  as  she  was  taken  prisoner  from  some  frontier 
settlement,  many  years  ago,  when  she  waa  very  young, 
adopted  by  the  savages,  and  married  to  a  Chief  of  the 
tribe. 

The  remains  of  a  Mammoth  were  dug  up  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  village  of  Geneseo  in  1825.  There  were  S 
teeth  and  grinders,  parts  of  a  tusk,  a  thigh  bone  3  feet 
long,  the  lower  bone  of  the  leg  3  feet  6  inches,  &c.  They 
lay  between  strata  of  vegetable  mould  and  sand. 

West  Bloomfield,  beyond  the  Genesee  River,  is  one 
of  the  finest  agricultural  townships  in  the  state,  and  pre- 
sents a  succession  of  beautiful  farms,  tilled  with  care  and 
yielding  the  finest  crops.  Fruit  thrives  remarkably  well 
in  all  this  western  country,  as  the  slightest  attention  to 
the  orchards  will  sufiiciently  prove  ;  and  while  in  smooth- 
ness and  neatness  the  fields  rival  those  of  the  oldest  dis- 
tricts farther  east,  the  orchards  exceed  them  in  luxuriance 
and  products.  The  Black  Apple  is  a  species  of  fruit 
which  has  been  said  to  be  peculiar  to  this  region.  The 
darkness  and  peculiarity  of  its  colour,  are  sufficient  to 
distinguish  it  at  a  considerable  distance  ;  and  the  flavour 
is  fine,  although  it  does  not  arrive  at  maturity  until  it  has 
been  kept  some  weeks  in  the  winter. 

East  Bloomfield  is  the  next  village ;  and  the  general 
remarks  just  made  may  tvith  justice  be  applied  to  this 
place  also. 


CANANDAIGUA. 

Inn.    Blossom's  St&ge  House. 

This  ia  one  of  the  finest  of  the  western  towns,  and  its 
principal  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  commanding 
hill,  nsing  from  the  north  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake.    It 


t 


NorSi 


JL. 


Q  IT  nr  ^  M  :ji  (G> 


'.  of  12i) 
leHerted 
rhile  his 
)nly  one 
18  hf  ap- 
tern  part 
[ting  the 
elonging 
m  White 
i  frontier 
y  young, 
sf  of  the 

lut  ha\f  a 
re  vrere  S 
me  3  feet 
c.    They 

jr,  is  one 
and  pre- 
a  care  and 
sably  well 
mention  to 
n  sinooth- 
olderit  dis* 
uxuriance 
is  of  fruit 
ion.    The 
ifficient  to 
he  flavour 
intil  it  has 

he  general 
ied  to  this 


rns,  and  its 
nnmanding 
I  Lake.    It 


&»%»• 


lished 

"Th 
Canand 

The 
Bristo 
terian  ^ 
and  a  si 
fissures 
the  bro( 
into  bu 
but  wh( 
steady 
guished 

The 
miles  { 
a  tract 
valley  c 
of  40  01 

The 
afield 


I 


TRAVELLEU. 


107 


is  wide,  and  contains  many  large  and  handsome  housef, 
particularly  that  of  the  late  Gideon  Granger.  It  is  to  be 
regrck^'''^  when  the  fine  appearance  of  this  town  is  con- 
sidered, that  it  should  not  huve  been  built  nearer  the  lake, 
and  on  some  of  those  fine  elevations  which  overlook  this 
beautiful  sheet  of  water.  The  road,  in  passing  Canan- 
daigua  Lake,  commands  a  finer  view  uf  scenery  than  on 
any  of  the  other  lakes  it  passes.  The  banks  are  high  and 
variegated,  and  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  rise 
to  an  imposing  height,  and  add  a  great  degree  of  beauty 
to  the  scene.  A  number  of  gentlemen^s  seats  are  seen 
along  the  western  bank  ;  and  a  little  way  off  in  the  lake 
on  the  same,  is  a  small  rocky  island,  where  the  Seneca 
Indians  carried  all  their  women,  children,  and  old  men, 
when  Gen.  Sullivan  appeared  against  them. 
>Stage  coaches  go  to  Rochester  every  day. 

Burning  Springs. 

Springs  of  water^  charged  with  inflammable  gas,  are 
quite  common  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place.  The  follow- 
ing description  of  them  is  extracted  from  an  account  pub- 
lished in  a  Canandaigua  newspaper  in  February,  1885 : 

"  These  Springs  are  found  in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and 
Canandaigua. 

The  former  are  situated  in  a  ravine  on  the  west  side  of 
Bristol  Hollow,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  North  Presby- 
terian Meeting  House.  The  ravioe  is  formed  in  clay  slate, 
and  a  small  brook  runs  through  it.  The  gas  rises  through 
fissures  of  the  slate,  from  both  the  margin  and  the  bed  of 
the  brook.  Where  it  rises  through  the  water,  it  is  formed 
into  bubbles,  and  flashes  only  when  the  flame  is  implied ; 
but  where  it  rises  directly  from  the  rock,  it  burns  with  a 
steady  and  beautiful  flame,  which  continues  until  extin- 
guished by  storms,  or  by  design. 

The  springs  in  Middlesex  are  situated  from  one  to  two 
miles  south-westerly  from' the  village  of  Rushville,  along 
a  tract  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  partly  at  the  bottom  of  the 
valley  called  Federal  Hollow,  and  partly  at  an  elevation 
of  40  or  50  feet  on  the  south  side  of  it. 

The  latter  have  been  discovered  within  a  few  years,  in 
a  field  which  had  been  long  cleared,  and  are  very  nume- 


,T" 


100 


THE  NORTHERN 


rou8.  Their  places  are  known  by  little  hillocks  of  a  feir 
feet  in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed  of  a  dark 
bituminous  mould,  which  seems  principally  to  have  been 
deposited  by  the  gas,  and  through  which  it  finds  its  way 
to  the  surface,  in  one  or  more  currents.  These  currents 
of  gas  may  be  set  on  fire,  and  will  burn  with  a  steady 
flame.  In  winter  they  form  openings  through  the  snow, 
and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  tlie  novel  and  interesting 
phenomenon  of  a  steady  and  lively  flame  in  contact  with 
nothing  but  snow.  In  very  cold  weather,  it  is  said,  tubes 
of  ice  are  formed  round  these  currents  of  gas,  (probably 
from  the  freezing  of  the  water  contained  in  it,)  which 
sometimes  rise  to  the  height  of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas 
issuing  from  their  tops ;  the  whole  when  lighted  in  a  still 
evening,  presenting  an  appearance  even  more  beautiful 
than  the  former. 

Within  a  few  days,  the  proprifitors  of  this  field  have 
put  into  operation  a  plan  for  applying  the  gas  to  economi< 
cal  purposes.  From  a  pit  which  vfixs  sunk  in  one  of  the 
hillocks,  the  gas  is  conducted  through  bored  logs,  to  the 
kitchen  of  the  dwelling,  and  rises  through  an  aperture  a 
little  more  than  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  in  the  door  of  a 
small  cooking  stove.  When  inflamed,  the  mixture  of  gas 
and  common  air  in  the  stove  first  explodes,  and  then  tlie 
stream  burns  steadily.  The  heat  evolved  is  considerable; 
so  that  even  this  small  supp'y  is  said  to  be  sufficient  for 
cooking.  In  another  part  of  the  room,  a  stream  of  the 
Z^%  from  an  orifice  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  is 
kindled  in  the  evening,  and  aflbrds  tae  light  of  two  or 
three  candles.  The  novelty  of  the  spectacle  attracts  a 
concourse  of  visiters  so  great,  that  the  proprietors  hare 
found  it  expedient  to  convert  their  dwelling  into  a  public 
inn. 

The  springs  of  the  town  of  Canandaigua  are  situated 
on  both  sides  of  the  lake,  within  three  miles  of  the  village. 
They  have  not  been  particularly  examined. 

Experiments  made  with  the  gas  seem  to  prove,  that  it 
consists  principally  of  a  mixture  of  the  light  and  heavy 
carburetted  hydrogen  gases,  the  former  having  greatly  the 
preponderance ;  and  that  it  contains  a  small  proportion  of 
carbonic  acid  gas.  It  seems  also  to  hold  a  little  oily  or 
bitominoirs  matter  in  solution.    It  burns  with  a  lambent, 


TKAVELLEH. 


109 


YcHouish  (lanrie,  scarcely  inclining  to  red,  with  small  icin- 
tillations  of  a  bright  red  at  its  base.  It  has  the  odour  of 
pit  coal,  it  produces  no  smoke,  but  deposits,  while  burn- 
ing, a  small  quantity  of  bituminous  lampblack.  It  is  re- 
markable that  the  hillocks,  through  which  the  gas  rises, 
are  to  ally  destitute  of  vegetation.  Whether  the  gas  is 
directly  deleterious  to  vegetable  life,  or  indirectly,  by  in- 
terrupting the  contact  of  the  air  of  the  atmosphere,  it  is 
certain  that  no  plant  can  sustain  life  within  the  circle  of 
its  influence. 

It  is  well  known  that  thb  gas  is  found  abundantly  in 
coal  mines  ;  and  being  accidentally  set  on  fire,  (mixed  as 
it  is  in  those  mines  with  the  air  of  the  atmosphere,)  has 
many  times  causetL  terrible  and  destructive  explosions. 
The  writer  cannot  vearn  that  it  has  ever  been  known  to 
be  generated  in  (he  earth,  except  in  the  presence  of  coal ; 
and  hence  the  inference  is  strong,  that  it  proceeds  from 
coal.  If  we  add  to  this  the  fact,  that  there  is  no  sub- 
stance in  the  earth,  except  coal  and  other  vegetable  and 
animal  remains,  from  which,  by  any  known  natural  pro- 
cess, the  elements  of  the  gas  could  be  obtained,  the  proof 
almost  amounts  to  demonstration.  The  oily  deposite 
which  has  been  mentioned,  may  be  considered  as  a  ftirther 
proof  of  the  correctness  of  the  inference." 

The  road  between  Canandaigua  and  Geneva  passes 
over  a  singular  tract  of  country,  the  form  of  which  will 
not  fail  to  be  remarked  by  an  observant  traveller.  The 
distance  is  26  miles ;  and  the  ground  gradually  rises  by 
large  natural  terraces,  or  steps,  for  about  half  the  distance, 
and  descends  in  the  same  manner  on  the  other  side  to 
Seneca  Lake.  These  steps  or  terraces,  appear  to  hare 
been  formed  by  those  strong  currents  of  water  of  which 
geologists  speak,  which  at  some  ancient  period  of  time 
have  evidently  passed  over  many  tracts  of  country  in 
different  parts  of  the  world.  The  ridges  and  channels 
thus  formed  here  stretch  north  and  south,  frequently  to  a 
considerable  distance,  corresponding  both  in  form  and  di- 
rection with  the  numerous  lakes  which  are  found  in  this 
part  of  the  state.  Several  ancient  fortifications  have  been 
traced  here.  From  the  middle  ridge  the  view  is  extensive ; 
but  the  surrounding  country  is  of  too  uniform  a  surface 
to  present  any  remarkable  variety  of  scenery.    The  form 


110 


THE  NORTHERN 


adapts  it  peculiarly  to  agriculture  ,  indeed,  did  the  soil  but 
correspond  in  richness,  the  whole  scene  would  be  peculiar- 
ly  delightful  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view. 

;.-  j;'  '■/'.  •*  GENEVA. 

This  town  occupies  a  charming  situation  at  the  head 
of  Seneca  Lake,  and  for  a  mile  along  its  western  bank, 
which  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation  above  the  surface, 
and  affords  room  for  a  broad  and  level  street.  The  build< 
jngs  in  this  village  are  remarkably  neat  and  handsome. 
It  contains  one  of  the  most  comfortable  Inns  in  the  state, 
keptby  Mr.  Lynch. 

A  college  has  lately  been  instituted  in  this  place. 

Seneca  Lake 


is  35  miles  long,  and  about  3  or  4  wide.  Its  depth  is  un* 
usually  great,  and  the  water  clear  and  very  cold,  to  which 
is  referred  the  scarcity  of  fish.  There  is  a  remarkable 
phenomenon  long  observed  by  those  who  reside  near  it, 
which  has  never  been  satisfactorily  accounted  for.  The 
water  has  a  regular  rise  and  fall  every  seven  years.  This 
is  perceptible  along  the  shore,  but  more  practically  esta* 
blished  in  the  experience  of  the  boatmen,  who  are  ac< 
customed  to  conduct  boats  through  the  Seneca  River,  to 
the  canal,  as  they  formerly  did  to  Oneida  Lake,  and  down 
the  Mohawk  River. 

The  land  on  the  borders  of  Seneca  Lake  is  valuable  for 
many  miles,  and  is  inhabited  by  a  mixed  population  from 
New-Jersey,  Maryland,  &c.  with  a  number  of  English 
families.  Towards  the  southern  end  of  the  lake,  the  soil 
changes  for  the  worse ;  but  in  a  few  years  the  productioni 
of  these  shores  may  be  expected  to  form  a  much  more  im- 
portant figure  than  they  do  at  present,  among  the  vast 
amount  of  transports  that  annually  flow  down  the  great 
Canal. 

A  stage  coach  runs  from  Geneva  down  the  west  side  of 
the  lake,  and  then  crosses  to  the  head  of  Cayuga  Lake,  to 
the  village  of  Ithaca  ;  but  the  road  is  not  interesting,  and 
th.e  more  agreeable  mode  of  reaching  that  village  is  by 


id  the  soil  but 
d  be  peculiar- 


sit  the  head 
estern  bank, 
e  the  surface, 
The  build, 
id  handsome. 
1  in  the  state, 


place. 


\ 


s  depth  is  un* 
sold,  to  which 
a  remarkable 
eside  near  it, 
ted  for.  The 
I  years.  This 
actically  esta* 
who  are  ac. 
leca  River,  to 
ike,  and  down 

13  valuable  for 
tpulation  from 
er  of  English 
i  lake,  the  soil 
le  productioni 
auch  more  im- 
long  the  vast 
>wn  the  great 

e  west  side  of 
lyuga  Lake,  to 
iteresting,  and 
:  village  is  by 


■Ti|p 


takinj 
neva, 


is  40 1 
Ita  we 

fevrCei 

end,  w 

plies  h 

the  fak 

the  nei 

same  d( 

boats  01 

a  consji 

croivdec 

irell  as  I 

est  that 

connect! 

the  travc 

CatakiU, 

direct  ro{ 

noticed  t 

to  lead 

probably 


„*The 
Road,  ga 
veys  were 

Prom  Cat 

*>om  Kii 

the  coil 

Tio«i,| 

From  J«J 

I  ^  Bingha] 

FromNe, 

Fromopr 

"rom  Ny< 
ofMoi 
I    There  l 

'  mlfMioner] 


J{ta).,l 


TRAVELLKU. 


Ill 


taking  the  steam  boat  at  Cayuga  bridge,  14  miles  from  Qt- 
neva,  on  the  great  mail  route. 

Catuga  Lake 

is  40  miles  in  length,  and  generally  about  2  in  breadths 
Its  water  is  shalloH',  the  depth  beins  generally  only  a 
few  feet.  A  fine  bridge  is  built  across  it  near  the  northern 
end,  where  it  is  a  mile  wide.  The  steam  boat  Experiment 
plies  between  Cayuga  bridge  and  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of 
the  lake,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  meet  the  stage  coaches  on 
the  new  route  from  Ithaca  to  New- York,  returning  the 
same  days.  It  is  small,  and  frequently  used  to  tow  canal 
boats  on  the  lake  ;  but  it  is  large  enough  to  accommodate 
a  considerable  number  of  passengers,  and  is  firequently 
crowded  with  parties  from  the  neighbouring  country,  aa 
well  as  traveller-  as  the  excursion  is  one  of  the  pleasant- 
est  that  can  b";  t  'cc^i  in  this  part  of  the  state.  It  also 
connects  sererv  n  artant  lines  of  stage  coaches,  which 
the  traveller  wiU  ^o  well  to  notice  if  he  wishes  to  go  to 
CatakiUf  JVetodur^,  JWio-ForA;,  or  ^eW' Jersey,  by  the  most 
direct  route.  These  routes  will  be  more  particularly 
noticed  on  arriving  at  Ithaca.  [The  proposed  State  Road 
to  lead  through  the  southern  counties  to  Lake  Erie,  will 
probably,  if  constructed,  pass  here.'*'] 


*  The  commissioners  for  the  survey  of  routes  for  the  State 
Road,  gave  the  following  statements  m  1825,  before  their  sur- 
veys were  completed. 

Miles, 
From  Catskill,  or  Athens,  to  Bath,  by  the  way  of  Ithaca,  221 
From  Kingston,  by  the  way  of  Colchester  and  Walton,  in 

the  county  of  Delaware,  and  Spencer  in  the  county  of 

Tioga,  to  Bath,  .     22T 

From  Kingston,  by  the  way  of  Warwarsing,  Dfi'Osit, 

Binffhampton,  Owego,  and  Newtown,  to  Bath/ 
FromNewburgh  to  Bath,  by  the  way  oi  Depo^» 
From  opposite  Poughkeepsie,  through  New  Valtz,  &c.  to 

Bath, 
From  Nyaek,  in  Rockland  county,  to  ^th,  by  the  way 

of  Montioello  and  Shohocken, 

There  are  but  two  points  on  Lak«  Erie  to  which  the  com- 
ml9Hioneri<i  directed  their  survey*  to  be  made,  viz.    Portland 


2S2 
236 

SSO 

SM 


s  1 


112 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  price  of  a  passage  in  the  steam  boat  is  one  dollar  ,- 
and  the  scenes  brought  to  view  in  passing  along  are  some- 
times inviting,  although  the  shores  are  generally  too  mo^i 
notonous  and  of  too  little  elevation  to  afford  any  striking 
features.  A  little  before  arriving  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
a  beautiful  Waterfall  is  seen  on  the  left  hand,  where  a 
stream  of  water  flows  over  a  very  high  precipice  into  a 
deep  glen,  and  forces  its  way  along,  turning  several  valu- 
able mills  in  its  course.  The  landing  place  is  about  three 
miles  from  the  village  of  Ithaca,  but  lumber  boats  can  pass 


I 


and  Dunkirk,  in  the  country  of  Chautauque.  The  distance 
from  Bath  to  Portland  is  about  143  miles,  and  from  Bath  to 
Piu^irk  about  129  miles.  Making  the  distances  upon  the  en- 
tire routes,  as  follows : 

Miles, 
From  Catskill,  or  Athens,  to  Portland,  on  lake  Erie,  365 

From  Kingston,  by  way  of  Colchester,  &c.  to  Portland,  370 
From  Kingston  by  way  of  Deposit,  &c.  to  Portland,  376 

From  Pouehkeepsie,  373 

FromNewbm^h,  379 

From  Nyack,  407 

The  distance  from  each  of  the  above  places  on  the  Hudson 
River  to  Dunkirk,  is  14  miles  less  than  from  the  same  places  to 
Portland. 

The  commissioners  state  that  a  route,  and  indeed  routes,  may 
be  selected  from  the  road,  without  essentially  varying  from  a 
direct  course,  upon  which  the  elevation  or  descent  will  not 
exceed  three  degrees  from  a  horizontal  line.  The  soil  of  the 
Goontry  explored  is  hard  and  gravelly,  and  well  adapted  to  the 
construction  of  the  road,  at  a  comparatively  small  expense ; 
the  commissioners  add,  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  coun- 
ties of  Chautauque  and  Cataraugus,  there  is  perhaps  no  portion 
of  the  stale  or  nation  which  swords  greater  natural  facilities 
for  a  work  of  this  kind.  They  recommend  the  adoption  of 
the  M* Adams  plan  of  road  making ;  the  material  for  that  pm- 
pose  being  fo«iid  abimdantly  upon  nearlv  all  the  routes. 

From  such  dii^aas  they  are  possessed  of,  the  commissioners 
estimate  the  avera^<>  expense  of  a  road,  "  bavin?  a  solid  founda- 
tion and  coated  with  *  durable  and  smooth  surfoce,"  at  $2000 
per  milCj  including  bria^es ;  making  a  total  expense  of  $760 
000.  It  IS  their  belief  that  the  work  inav  be  completed  in  t\v< 
years  from  the  ensuing  sprint. 


ie  dollar  ,- 
ure  some- 
y  too  mo- 
y  striking 
the  lake, 
,  where  a 
ice  into  a 
reral  valu- 
bout  three 
ts  can  pass 


^he  distance 
rom  Bath  to 
ipott  the  en- 

Miles. 
rie,  365 
»rdaiid,  370 
nd, 


.  TRAVELLEll. 


113 


376 
373 

V  -■        379 

^r  407 

the  Hudson 

Bime  places  to 

d  routes,  may 
rying  from  a 
cent  will  not 
he  soil  of  the 
adapted  to  the 
aall  expense. 
n  of  the  coun- 
laps  no  portion 
itural  iacilities 
le  adoption  of 
al  for  that  pui- 
( routes, 
commissioner! 
asolidfounda 
Ice,"   at  $2000 
pense  of  $760 
iinpleted  in  t\T  • 


the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  inlet,  and  proceed  up  to  the 

street. 

The  village  of  Ithaca  is  neat  and  flourishing.  Here 
centre  three  roads  to  CatskiU,  J^tvohurght  and  JsTeW'York, 
The  first  leads  nearly  in  a  direct  line  to  the  Hudson  River, 
the  second  passes  the  Great  Bend  of  the  Delaware,  and 
the  third  furnishes  c  ily  the  shortest  route  to  New- York. 

The  Cascade. 

This  beautiful  and  romantic  scene  already  spoken  of  is 
about  3  miles  from  the  village,  and  should  by  no  means 
be  left  unseen.  The  waterfall  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque that  can  be  imagined.  The  height  and  solemnity 
of  the  surrounding  rocks,  the  darkness  of  their  shadowb, 
and  the  beauty  of  the  sparkling  spray,  unite  to  produce 
an  impression  of  pleasure  which  is  rarely  experienced  at 
the  sight  of  any  scene,  however  extraordinary  for  beauty 
or  sublimity. 

Great  quantities  of  plaster  of  Paris,  (sulphate  of  lime,) 
are  transported  from  this  neighbourhood  to  different  parts 
of  the  country.  Grain,  lumber,  &c.  are  also  sent  down 
the  lake  and  towards  the  south  by  the  Schuylkill  River. 

This  is  near  the  dividing  line  between  the  waters  which 
flow  north  and  south. 

The  astonishing  success  which  has  accompanied  the 
enterprising  spirit  of  the  state  in  forming  the  Grand  Ca- 
nal, has  acted  as  a  powerful  stimulus  in  different  parts  of 
the  country,  and  numerous  works  of  the  same. kind  have 
in  consequence  been  proposed  east,  west,  and  south. 
Many  of  these  have  been  found  impracticable,  and  a  large 
part  of  those  which  may  hereafter  be  carried  into  execu- 
tion, relate  to  regions  removed  beyond  the  sphere  of  a 
work  of  so  local  a  character  as  this  little  book.  The 
canal  commissioners  of  New- York,  in  1826,  reported  the 
results  of  surveys,  and  estimates  for  the  routes  of  13  ca- 
nals, some  of  which  extend  into  other  states. 

One  of  these  is  for  the  Cayuga  and  Susquehannah  Canal* 
The  route  is  from  Cayuga  Lake,  near  the  mouth  of  Casca- 
dilla,  through  Ithaca,  along  Mud  Creek  and  the  valley  of 
the  Oswego  to  the  Susquehannah.  The  amount  of  lockage 
is  760  feet ;  the  disthnce  31  miles  ;  and  the  estimated  ex> 
pense  320,000  dollars. 

L 


iU 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  proposed  canal  to  unite  Cayuga  and  Seneca  waters 
-ivith  the  Erie  Canal,  it  has  been  decided,  is  to  pass 
through  Waterloo,  from  Geneva  down  the  valley  of  Sene- 
ca lUver  to  Montezuma.  V 


:     '  AUBURN 

18  another  beautiful  village,  and  merits  the  name  it  has 
borrowed  from  Goldsmith's  charming  poetry.  It  is  un- 
fortunately placed  at  some  distance  from  Owasco  Lake, 
and  therefore  is  deprived  of  the  picturesque  character 
which  it  might  have  enjoyed.  There  is  a  Theological 
Seminary  in  Auburn,  which,  in  1825,  had  nearly  50  stu- 
dents. There  are  several  handsome  public  buildings  i|i 
this  place,  but  the  most  important  is  the         .    ^ 

*"' ''  State  Prison. 

This  institution  having  been  for  two  or  three  years 
managed  by  Mr.  Lynds,  on  a  system  in  some  respects 
new,  and  with  remarkable  success,  merits  particular  notice. 

"The  old  Auburn  prison  was  built  in  1817,  and  cost 
about  $300,000 ;  it  is  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a  hol- 
low square,  enclosed  by  a  wall  of  2000  feet  in  extent, 
being  500  feet  on  each  side,  and,  for  the  most  part,  35 
•  feet  in  height.  The  north  wing  of  the  building  differs 
very  much  in  its  construction  flrom  any  building  of  the* 
kind,  and  the  use  of  which  is  conceived  to  be  one  of  the 
greatest  improvements  in  prisons,  and  one  of  the  best  aids 
to  prison  discipline,  which  has  been  anywhere  made. 
The  workshops  are  built  against  the  inside  of  the  outer 
wall,  fronting  towards  the  yard,  from  which  every  shop  is 
visible,  forming  a  continued  range  of  940  feet.  With 
such  alterations  as  it  may  undergo,  it  can  be  made  to  hold 
1100  convicts. 

The  new  one  is  thus  described  in  the  newspapers. 
One  building  designed  to  contain  400  cells,  covers  only 
206  by  46  feet  of  ground.  There  are  5  stories  of  cells, 
each  containing  80  in  two  parallel  lines,  divided  in  the 
middle  by  a  wall  two  feet  thick.  The  walls  between  the 
cells  are  one  foot  thick.    The  ctHs  are  7  feet  long,  7  hiffh. 


TRAVELLER. 


115 


;a  waters 

to  pass 

of  Sene- 


ime  it  bas 

It  is  UTl' 

isco  Lake, 
churacter 
'heological 
rly  50  stu< 
lildings  i|i 


hree  years 
le  respects 
lular  notice. 
7,  and  oost 
3in  of  a  liol* 
in  extent, 
lost  part,  35 
Iding  differs 
Idingof  thei 
B  one  of  the 
the  best  aids 
jhert  made, 
of  the  outer 
jvery  shop  is 
feet.    With 
made  to  hold 

spapei's. 
,  covers  only 
iries  of  cells, 
ivided  in  the 
i  between  the 
t  long,  7  hish. 


• 


and  3^  wide,  intended  to  receive  only  one  convict  in  each. 
Each  cell  has  a  ventilator  extending  to  the  roof,  and  is  lO 
constructed  in  front,  that  the  prisoners  can  neither  con- 
verse  or  make  signs  to  each  other.  The  area  around  the 
cells  is  10  feet  wide  and  open  to  the  roof,  which  covers 
the  galleries  of  the  several  stories.  Besides  the  moral 
benefit  arising  from  keeping  the  prisoners  separatei  it 
unites  that  of  economy  and  security.  From  the  construc- 
tion of  the  prison,  5  small  stoves,  6  large  and  IS  small 
lamps,  all  out  of  reach  of  the  convicts,  afford  heat  and 
light  to  555  cells ;  and  one  centinel  is  sul&cient  to  400 
prisoners. 

The  expenditures  at  the  Auburn  prison  are  pro- 
nounced to  have  been  neither  wasteful  nor  improper.  The 
number  of  convicts  in  1823,  na.  300;  the  gross  ejptnan 
of  the  prison  $20,589,  the  earnings  of  the  prisoners 
$9,807,  net  expense  to  the  public  910,781,  and  net  ex-* 
pense  for  each  convict  during  the  year  034  78.  The 
gross  expense  of  the  prison  at  New- York  in  1824, 
was  $55,792,  the  earnings  of  the  prisoners  #33,316,  the 
number  of  convicts  608,  the  gross  cost  for  each  991  67, 
and  the  net  cost  922  67.  A  large  prison  has  been  built  in 
Westchester  after  this  plan,to  supersede  that  of  New-Yorfc. 

The  correct  discipline  observed  in  this  prison,  (say 
the  committee,)  only  require  to  be  seen,  to  be  duly  appre- 
ciated. The  conduct  of  the  prisoners  while  at  their  la- 
bour, and  their  quietness  under  the  privations  of  the 
prison,  prove,  that  the  discipline  is  complete  and  effective ; 
and  the  main  cause  of  the  order  and  decorum  thus  ob- 
served, is,  that  in  all  matters  of  discipline,  there  is  but 
one  head  or  principal.  The  inspectors  of  this  prison, 
have  resigned  to  the  principal  keeper,  Mr.  Lynds,  the 
discretionary  power  of  directing  and  controlling  the  dis- 
cipline and  punishment  of  the  convicts,  and  the  conduct, 
deportment,  and  o'Ay  of  the  assistant  keepers.  This 
measure  of  the  inspectors  is  both  wise  and  judicious,  and 
has  produced  throughout  the  establishment  the  most  happy 
results ;  and  the  gentleman  in  whom  this  confidence  is 
placed,  is  in  every  respect  worthy  of  it ;  for  he  is  a  man 
eminently  qualified  for  the  station  he  occupies  ;  possesses 
more  than  common  talents  and  firmness  as  a  disciplina- 
rian ;  appears  to  devote  his  whole  mind  to  the  duties  of 


116 


THE  NORTHERN 


his  office,  and  has  a  taste  for  order,  neatness,  and  regular- 
ity,  seldom  surpassed." 

Minute  observations  on  the  coinparative  labour  of  a  free 
person  and  a  convict  show  that  the  latter  does  not  accom- 
plish as  much  in  a  day  as  the  former.  In  the  year  1823, 
the  balance  against  the  New- York  prison  was  $18,633 ; 
and  that  against  the  Auburn  prison  $10,780.  The  com- 
mittee state  that  the  kind  of  work  proper  for  a  state  pri- 
son should  unite  the  following  properties :  that  the  de- 
mand should  be  great,  the  material  cheap,  the  trade  easily 
learned,  a  business  which  cannot  be  so  conducted  by  ma- 
chinery as  to  reduce  the  wages  too  low,  and  a  trade  in 
which  hard  work  can  be  enforced  and  made  the  more  pro- 
fitable. 

The  pardoning  power  ought  to  be  exercised  with  grealt 
caution  by  the  executive ;  for  perhaps  no  circumstance 
has  so  much  contributed  to  do  away  the  terrors  of  punish- 
ment as  the  facilities  afforded  the  worst  part  of  our  spe- 
cies in  obtaining  a  pardon. 

Jineient  Fortifieatwna.  There  are  some  remains  of  an- 
cient fortifications  in  the  vicinity  of  this  place,  as  well 
as  in  the  neighbouring  towns  of  Camillus,  Onondaga,  and 
Pompey. 

If  the  traveller  should  wish  to  take  the  canal,  a  stage 
coach  goes  every  day  to  Weed's  Basin,  8  miles,  and  car- 
ries passengers  for  50  cents,  to  meet  the  canal  boats, 
which  pass  at  stated  periods. 


From  Auburn  to  Syracuse, 
^2^  the  Cand,  34  miles. 

(Stage  coach  to  Weed's  Basin,) 8 

Jordan  Village,  in  Camillus  township, 6 

A  proposition  has  been  made  for  a  canal  from 
Jordan  to  Homer  on  the  Susquebannah, 
which  has  been  found  practicable.  The  dis- 
tance is  34  miles,  of  which,  only  14  will  require 
to  be  dug. 
Canton,  (half-way  village  between  Buffalo  and 
Albany,  179  miles  from  the  former,  and  183 
from  the  latter,) > . . . .  € 


miles. 


TRAVELLER.  in 

Geddes  Village,  (with  salt-works,) 13  miles. 

Syracuse, *• 2 

By  the  Road^  28  miles. 

Skeneateles, 8 

Marcellus, 6 

Onondaga, 10 

Syracuse, 4 

Syracuse.  For  a  description  of  this  place,  as  well  as 
of  Salina,  the  8dt  Springj  and  8aU  ManufaeUrrift,  see 
page  70. 

Although  the  routes  east  of  Syracuse,  both  Ky  the  canal 
and  by  the  road,  are  given  in  other  places,  and  although 
they  may  be  traced  on  the  maps,  it  may  perhaps  be  con- 
venient to  have  them  repeated  in  the  reversed  ordet^  for 
travellers  going  towards  Albany.     {For  places  see  Iiidex.) 


From  Syracuse  to  Utica, 
By  the  Canal,  61  miles. 

Manlius  Landing, 9  miles. 

Chitteningo  Creek S 

(A  curious  petrified  tree  lies  near  this  place  a  few 

steps  from  the  canal,  which  was  found  with 

many  of  its  branches.) 

Canastota  Village  and  Basin, 8 

Oneida  Creek, 5 

Wood  Creek, 13 

Rome, 3 

Oriskany  Village, 8 

Whitesborough, 3 

Utica, 4 

By  the  Roadj  48  miles. 

Derne, 3 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 9 

Oneida  Creek, . . . : 11 

Vernon, 5 

L  2 


n» 


THE  NOUTHEKN     . 


Westmorelandt 6  mile^v 

New  Hartford, 7 

IJ  tica, 4 

For  Utica,  flee  page  64,  for  Hamilton  College,  do. 
and  for  Trenton  Falls,  65. 

Projected  Canal.—- A  plan  has  been  recently  formed 
for  the  construction  of  a  canal  from  Utica  down  the  Una- 
dilla  River,  to  intersect  the  Susquehannah  at  some  point 
near  the  town  of  Bainbridge,  in  the  county  of  Chenango. 

From  Utica  to  Schenectady, 

By  the  Canal f  79 1  miles.  \ 

Lock,  No.  63,  (end  of  the  long  level,  which  be- 
gins westward  at  Salina,  and  extends  to  this 

place,  69)  miles,  without  a  lock,)  9  miles. 

Bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  and  Herkimer  Village,  5 

Little  Falls S 

Fall  Hill,  a  mountain  on  the  right,  518  feet  high- 
er than  the  canal,  712  above  high  water  in 
Hudson  River,  ana  about  145  above  Lake  Erie,  1 

Old  Mohawk  Cattle, 5 

Fort  Plain, fi 

Canajoharle, 4 

(Stage  coach  hence  to  Cheny  Valley  Tuesday 
and  Friday.) 

Anthony's  Nose, 6 

(This  scene  is  represented  in  the  plate  from  this  side. 
The  bluff  on  the  right  is  Antbony^s  Nose,  on  the  top  of 
which  a  remarkable  cavern  opens,  extending  further  doivn 
than  It  has  ever  been  explored.) 

Schoharie  Creek, 1  j 

Amsterdam  Village,  (across  the  river.) 5 

Flint  Hill, 6 

Rotterdam  Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 

Road  to  Albany,  15i  miles.  Numerous  coaches  go 
every  day.  A  rail  road  is  to  be  constructed. 


" 


♦I' 


1RAV£LL£U. 


119 


HoAD  TO  Ballston  AND  SARATOGA.  Both  these  roads 
offer  the  shortest  and  most  expeditious  communication 
with  the  places  to  which  they  conduct ,  and  if  the  travel- 
ler should  be  in  pressing  haste,  he  should  avail  himself  of 

them. 

To  travellers  of  leisure  and  taste,  however,  the  canal 
boats  are  recommended  to  the  Mohawk  Bridge,  although 
they  are  liable  to  many  delays  at  the  numerous  locks 
aloDg  this  difficult  but  interesting  part  of  the  canal. 

From  Schenectaot  to  Albany, 
By  the  CarnU,  28^  miles. 

Alexander's  Bridge,  (on  the  turnpike  road  to  Al- 
bany and  Ballston — an  interesting  scene,) . . .  4^ miles. 
Upper  Aqueduct,  (on  which  the  canal  crosses 

the  Mohawk,) i 

The  Young  Engineer ^  a  rock  on  the  right,  so  call- 
ed, where  the  cutting  is  the  deepest  on  the 

whole  route,  32  feet  deep, 4 

WatHoixGap, 5^ 

(A  natural  channel  through  which  the  canal  is  led  more 
than  200  yards.     The  rotks  are  Grawacke  slate.     In  the 
river  is  the  Wat  Hoix  Knpid,  which  the  Indians  called 
the  Evil  Spirit,  and  sometimes  the  White  Horse.) 
Lower  Aqueduct,  1138  feet  long,  on  which  the 
canal  crosses  the  Mohawk  again,  on  24  stone 

abutments  and  piers 2| 

The  four  Locks,  8  feet  each,  and  Gohoes  Falls.  2 
(Canal  boat    to    Clifilon  Park — route  to    the 
Springs.)    See  p.  52. 

The  two  Locks,  9  feet  each, i 

The  three  Locks,  and  the  Cohoes  Bridge  over 

tbe  Mohawk, i 

(Hence  to  Waterfurd,  on  the  road  to  Ballston,  Sarato- 
ga, &c.  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  where  stage  coaches 
are'  continually  passing  in  the  visiting  season.  By  leaving 
the  boat  here,  or  a  little  below,  where  the  canal  meets  the 
road,  a  seat  may  frequently  be  found  in  a  passing  coach, 
to  Waterford  or  the  Springs ;  or,  some  may  prefer  to 
take  a  boat  on  the  Northern  Canal,  which  is  close  at 
hand.    We  shall  take  up  the  land  route  after  giving  the 


180 


THE  NORTHERN 


few  remaining  objecte  on  the  way  to  Albany,  and  refer* 
ring  the  reader  to  page  48  for  a  description  of  that  city.) 
The  Junction,  where  the  Northern  Canal,  from 

Lake  Champlain,  meetf  the  Erie  Canal, i  mile. 

Weit  Troy 1 

(Here  it  a  cluster  of  buildings  about  the  basins  where 
the  Troy  boats  lie.  The  dam  across  the  Mohawk  will 
afford  an  easy  communication  bet«veen  the  canal  and 
Troy,  which  is  seen  on  the  opposite  side.  A  good  horse 
ferry-boat  plies  below.) 

United  States'  Arsenal,. 1 

The  Manor  House  of   Gen.  Van  Rensselaer, 

called  Rensselacrwyck, 5 

Albany, 1 


V^ 


TRAVELLER. 


121 


ROUTE  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 

{For  the  Road  and  Canal  between  Albany  and  Water- 
ford)  see  page  50,  and  onward.]     .      . 


WATERFORD. 

1         i'  i    Vi  I 

This  village  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson, 
across  which  the  communication  Is  convenient  by  menns 
of  the  first  bridge  we  have  seen  over  this  river.  Lansir.,;* 
burgh  stands  opposite,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable  8128, 
but  wearing  an  aspect  of  gradual  decay.  The  streets  of 
Waterford  are  wide,  regular,  and  handsomely  built. 
Some  of  the  private  houses  are  remarkable  for  their  neat« 
ness.  There  are  numerous  rocky  islands,  with  precipi- 
tous sides,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  River,  which  are 
aeen  at  a  little  distance  below  the  bridge.  The  boats  on 
the  Champlain  Canal  enter  the  Mohawk  in  full  view  of 
them,  through  guard  locks,  and  are  poled  across,  the  cur- 
rent being  stopped  by  a  dam.  The  Cohoes  Cotton  Man- 
ufactory is  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  at  that  place, 
and  only  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  bridge.  Du- 
ring the  warm  season  of  the  year,  this  place  is  a  great 
thoroughfare,  lying  on  two  roads  to  Albany,  as  well  as  in 
the  way  to  both  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs,  Lake 
Geoi^e,  &c.  It  is  2H  miles  to  Ballston  Springs,  and  24 
to  Saratoga. 

The  approach  to  the  village  from  the  south-west,  by  the 
canal  and  the  road,  is  uncommonly  beautiful.  It  lies 
quite  below  you,  with  a  little  meadow  in  front,  buv  tided 
by  the  canal  and  the  Hudson,  its  white  houses  mingled 
with  fine  trees,  and  Diamond  Hill  rising  behind,  with  its 
sides  half  cultivated,  and  half  covered  with  -v^oods. 

Jnn,    Demarest's  Stage  House. 

A  few  crystals  are  found  on  Diamond  Hill. 

The  shortest  road  from  Waterfurd  to  Ballston  Springs 
is  through  ^ewtown^  18|  miles.  It  passes  over  higher 
land  than  that  through  Mechanicville,  and  perhaps  is  not 
mere  sandy,  but  is  not  furnished  with  stage  coaches.  The 
usual  road  will  be  given  afterwards. 


122 


THE  NORTHERN 


On  leaving  Waterford,  it  verges  to  the  west,  and  rises 
to  an  elevation  of  considerable  height,  which  affords  a 
view  towards  the  south  over  a  charming  piece  of  country  : 
the  high,  half-cultivated  range  of  hills,  which  extend  some 
miles  down  the  Hudson  in  the  rear  of  Lansingburgh  and 
Troy,  together  with  a  broad  strip  of  land  on  each  side  of 
the  river,  including  the  tract  on  the  west  bank,  divided  by 
parts  of  the  Champlain  and  Erie  Canals,  and  the  mouth 
of  the  Mohawk  River.  From  two  miles  further  on, 
Saddle  Mountain  appears  in  view  in  the  East,  with  a 
single  peak  more  in  the  north,  and  at  a  still  greater  dis- 
tance. 

Much  of  this  road  is  sandy,  and  a  great  deal  of  wheat 
and  clover  is  cultivated. 

Newtown,  3^  miles  from  Waterford. 

Half  Moon,  4.  From  this  place,  the  Catskill  Moun* 
tains  are  plainly  visible  in  clear  weather. 

Second  Inn  in  Half  Moon,  4. 

About  3  miles  beyond  this  place,  the  view  opens,  and 
shows  that  the  traveller  is  in  a  kind  of  amphitheatre : 
the  Greenfield  Mountains  in  the  west  stretching  far 
away  to  the  north,  and  the  Vermont  Mountains  in  the 
east,  which  seem  to  approach  them  as  they  retire,  with 
several  fine  and  prominent  peaks,  particularly  one  which 
is  about  3  miles  beyond  Bennington,  Vt.  famous  for  the 
defeat  of  Col.  Baum,  in  the  revolution.  Afterwards  the 
road  passes  near  Ballston  village,  but  without  affording  a 
sight  of  it ;  and  the  Springs,  being  situated  in  a  little  val- 
ley, the  first  intimation  you  have  of  your  approach  is  the 
sight  of  several  tall  evei^reens,  and  a  small  pleasure 
house,  on  the  top  of  a  sharp  hill,  in  the  rear  of  Aldridge's 
boarding  house. 


From  Watbrford  to  the  Springs,  bt 
Mechanicville. 

This  is  the  usual  road,  but  ofiers  few  objects  of  in- 
terest. 

Mechanicville,  or  the  Borough,  8|  miles  from  Wa- 
terford. Here  the  coaches  generally  stop  for  breakfast  or 
dinner.  Near  at  hand  is  a  Cotton  Manufactory,  whence 
the  place  derives  its  former  name. 


TRAVELLER. 


123 


and  rises 
affords  a 
country : 
end  some 
urgb  and 
sh  side  of 
livided  by 
he  mouth 
irther  on, 
it,  with  a 
reater  dis- 

I  of  wheat 


nil  Moun- 


openS)  and 
thitheatre : 
itching  far 
ins  in  the 
etire,  with 

one  which 
0U8  for  the 
rwards  the 
affording  a 

a  little  vai- 
oach  is  the 
i\\  pleasure 
r  Aldridge's 


BT 


)jects  of  in- 

IS  from  Wa- 
breakfast  or 
ory,  whence 


DuMNiKG-STREET.  Here  is  a  little  village,  at  which 
the  road  turns  off  west  for  the  Springs.  About  a  mile 
south  of  it|  we  cross  the  Northern  Canal. 

Stillwater  is  3  miles  above,  and  4  miles  beyond  that 
is  SmilVs  Tavemf  where  those  will  stop  who  wish  to  visit 
the  Battle  Ground,  at  Bemis^s  Heights. 

Although  the  great  crowd  of  travellers  on  this  road 
will  take  the  route  to  Ballston  or  Saratoga,  yet  as  they 
will  find  few  objects  of  any  interest,  it  may  be  proper  to  in« 
troduce,inthis  place,  an  account  of  the  expedition  of  Gen. 
Burgoyne,  and  the  battle  of  Bemis's  Heights,  often  known 
by  the  name  of  the  battle  of  Saratoga,  as  we  are  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  field. 

Stillwater  takes  its  name  from  the  smoothness  and 
quiet  of  the  Hudson,  which  there  spreads  out  over  a  broad 
surface,  and  hardly  shows  any  appearance  of  a  current. 
It  is  the  place  to  which  Gen.  Schuyler  retreated  at  the 
approach  of  Gen.  Bui^oyne,  after  removing  all  the  stores, 
driving  away  the  cattle,  and  throwing  all  possible  obsta- 
cles in  his  way :  afterward  retreating  to  the  island  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Mohawk ;  and  through  this  place,  Gen. 
Gates,  who  soon  after  succeeded  him  in  the  command, 
marched  up  from  Half  Moon  to  take  position  on  Bemis's 
Heights. 

The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Maps,  to  observe  the  im- 
portance of  the  tract  of  country  which  lies  along  the 
route  we  have  just  entered  upon.  From  Canada  to  the 
head  of  Lake  Champlain  there  is  an  uninterrupted  water 
communication,  by  which  troops  and  every  thing  neces- 
sary to  an  army  may  be  transported  with  the  utmost  fa- 
cility. A  short  land  carriage  reaches  Lake  George. 
Wood  Creek,  at  the  south  end  of  Champlain,  is  navigable 
in  boats  to  Fort  Anne,  which  is  only  9  miles  distant  from 
Fort  Edward,  on  Hudson  River,  whence  the  navigation  is 
open  to  New-York.  Here  have  consequently  been 
many  of  the  most  important  military  operations  which 
have  ever  been  carried  on  in  the  United  States.  The 
first  battle  within  this  region,  of  which  history  gives  any 
account,  was  fought  between  the  French  and  the  Five 
Nations  of  Indians,  soon  after  the  settlement  of  Canada, 
when  the  latter  first  learnt  the  terrible  effect  of  gunpow- 
der, and  began  to  flee  from  the  approach  of  civilization. 


1S4 


THE  NORTHERN 


In  the  numerous  expeditions  which  at  subsequent  periods 
were  undertaken  by  the  British  against  Canada,  this  route 
was  taken  in  the  attack,  and  not  unfrequently  in  the  re- 
treat. The  important  events  of  the  war  of  1755,  were 
almost  confined  to  this  region )  and  the  revolutioui  and 
the  last  war  with  England,  produced  scenes  which  will  be 
touched  upon  in  their  places. 

The  first  period  to  which  we  shall  refer,  is  that  of  the 
Revolution  ;  and  the  first  scene  that  of  the  battle  of  Sa- 
ratoga, or  Demises  Heights,  toward  which  we  are  fast  ap- 
proaching. 

"  I  could  here,**  says  Dr.  Dwight,  "  almost  forget  that 
Arnold  became  a  traitor  to  his  country,  and  satisfy  myself 
with  recollecting,  that  to  his  invincible  gallantry,  and  that 
of  the  brave  officers  and  soldiers  whom  he  led,  my  coun^ 
try  was,  under  God,  indebted  in  a  prime  degree  for  her 
independence,'and  all  its  consequent  blessings.  I  should 
think  that  an  American,  peculiarly  an  inhabitant  of  New- 
England  or  New-York,  little  to  be  envied,  whose  patriot- 
ism did  not  gain  force  upon  the  heights  of  Stillwater,  or 
the  plains  of  Saratoga.  These  scenes  1  have  examined : 
the  former  with  solemnity  and  awe,  the  latter  with  ardour 
and  admiration,  and  both  with  enthusiasm  and  rapture. 
He  I  have  remembered ;  and  here  it  was  impossible  not 
to  remember,^  that  on  this  very  spot  a  controversy  was  de> 
cided,  upon  which  hung  the  liberty  and  happiness  of  :i 
nation  destined  one  day  to  fill  a  continent ;  and  of  its  de- 
scendants, who  will  probably  hereafter  outnumber  the  in- 
habitants of  Europe.^ 

BURGOYNE'S  EXPEDITION. 

Gen.  Burgoyne*  was  appointed  Governor  of  Canada  in 
1777,  to  succeed  Sir  Guy  Carlton.     He  arrived  at  Quebec 

*  General  Burgoyne. — {From  an  English  TVork.)--lt  i> 
curious,  that  a  man  of  such  celebrity  as  a  writer,  a  senator, 
and  an  officer,  as  the  late  Lieut.  John  Burgoyne,  should  bi> 
found  among  the  number  of  those  of  whose  youthful  days  no 
memorial  has  been  preserved.  Neither  the  time,  place,  nor 
circumstances  of  his  birth  are  known.  Even  his  parec^age  i> 
doubtful.  He  is  said,  but  upon  what  authority  it  does  not  ap- 
pear, to  have  been  a  natural  son  of  that  Lord  Binp;ly  wh(»  <^i<  ' 


anger 

waisu( 

bable. 

Keniui 

edby 

fulair 


TRAVELLER. 


125 


t  period  H 
;his  route 
n  the  re- 
55,  were 
ition,  and 
ch  will  be 

lat  of  the 
tie  of  Sa- 
i  fast  ap- 

brget  that 
sfy  myseir 
',  and  that 
my  coun«> 
ree  for  her 
I  should 
it  of  New- 
)se  patriot' 
Uwater,  or 
examined : 
vith  ardour 
id  rapture, 
possible  not 
rsy  was  de> 
;>iness  of  a 
id  of  its  de- 
iber  the  in- 


f  Canada  in 
d  at  Quebec 

r,  a  senator, 
le,  should  bfi 
thful  days  no 
>e,  place,  nor 
s  parentage  is 
I  does  not  fi|'- 
ip;ly  who  did' 


in  May*  and  reached  Crown  Point  Jure  80ih.  Gen.  Phil- 
lipi  was  tent  to  Ticonderoga  with  the  British  right  wing ; 

tt  an  adnmeed  age  in  1774.  That  he  had  the  advantage  of  a 
liberal  education^  and  early  intercourse  with  polished  socie^, 
is  sttfflciently'  evident  from  his  writings ;  and  it  is  probable 
that  he  was  early  devoted  to  the  profession  of  arms,  for  on  the 
10th  of  May,  1759,  he  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  Lieut.  Colo- 
nel, and  in  the  August  of  the  ensuinx  year,  he  was  appointed 
Lieut.  Col.  Commandant  of  the  16tii  Lignt  Dragoons.  His 
after  services  at  different  periods,  in  Spain,  Portugal,  and 
America,  are  all  well  known,  especially  the  unfortunate  ter- 
mination of  his  military  career  at  Saratoga,  which,  though  it 
tarnished  not  his  honour,  cast  a  shade  over  his  brow  ever  af- 
terward conspicuous  to  the  ^ihysioniomical  eye.  He  made, 
on  certain  occasions,  no  ordinary  ngure  in  Parliament  He 
moved  hi  the  firist  circles,  and  married  Lady  Charlotte  Stan- 
ley, a  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Derby ;  and  yet  we  know  not 
who  and  what  he  originally  was.  He  was  the  author  of  four 
successful  dramas :— tiie  Maiu  of  tho  Oaks,  the  Lord  of  the 
Manor,  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  and  the  comedy  of  the  Heir- 
ess ;  and  yet  the  curiosity  of  his  biographer,  even  in  this  anee- 
dote-deabng  and  memoir-sifting  aee,  cannot  trace  his  origin, 
or  tiie  scenes  of  his  education.  The  tale  of  the  Lord  of  the 
Manor  seems,  in  some  degree,  to  have  been  disguised  in  the 
modification  of  the  character  and  circumstances  by  the  inci- 
dent of  his  own  matrimonial  connexion :  for  his  was  a  clan- 
destine and  unauthorized  marriage,  at  a  time  when  he  held 
only  a  subaltem^s  commission  in  the  army ;  and  is  said  to  have 
excited  at  first  the  resentment  of  the  lady's  father  to  such  a 
degree,  that  he  declared  his  resolution  never  to  admit  the  of- 
fenders into  his  presence,  though  in  process  of  time,  the 
anger  of  the  Earl  subsided,  a  reconciliation  was  effected,  and 
was  succeeded  by  a  warm  and  lasting  attachment.  It  is  pro- 
bable, also,  that  the  memorjr  of  his  lady,  who  died  in  1776.  at 
Kensington  Palace,  during  ms  absence  m  America,  is  embalm- 
ed by  the  affectionate  reerets  of  the  General,  in  that  beauti- 
ful air  in  the  first  act  of  that  opera : 

«  Encompassed  in  an  angePs  frame. 
An  u^ePs  virtues  lay : 
Too  soon  did  heaven  assert  the  claim, 
And  call  its  own  away. 

Mr  Anna's  worth,  my  Anna's  charms, 

Must  never  more  return  ! 
What  now  shall  fill  these  widowM  amni ! 

Ah,  me !  my  Anna's  urn !" 
M      . 


126 


THE  NORTHERN 


and  the  outposts  anci  the  fort  were  successively  abandon- 
ed by  the  Americans.  The  news  of  the  evacuation  of 
this  place  was  a  most  disheartening  piece  of  intelligence 
to  the  country.  It  had  been  confidently  hoped  that  an 
effectual  resistance  would  there  be  offered  to  a  force  which 
threatened  the  liberty  of  America ;  or  at  all  events,  that 
a  heroic  stand  would  be  made  at  that  important  post, 
which  had  so  long  been  regarded  as  an  almost  impregna- 
ble fortress. 

The  real  strength  and  importance  of  Ticonderoga, 
proves,  however,  to  have  been  fatally  overrated.  With  an 
oversight  which  seems  truly  astonishing  at  the  present 
day,  the  neighbouring  mountain  had  been  left  entirely  un* 
occupied,  although  it  rises  at  so  short  a  distance  as  comr 
pletely  to  command  the  fort.  General  Phillips  was  to6 
skilful  a  soldier  to  overlook  the  advantages  of  the  coun- 
try ;  and  the  rising  sun  of  August  16th  showed  his  cannon 
on  the  si:ramit  of  Mount  Defiance,  ready  to  open  their 
fire  on  the  fortress  below.  Gen.  St.  Clair  saw  that  all 
hope  of  maintaining  his  position  was  entirely  lost,  and 
immediately  commenced  his  retreat,  pursued  at  no  great 
distance  by  General  Burgoyne.  The  news  of  St.  Clair's 
retreat  spread  consternation  throughout  the  country.  A 
powerful  army,  containing  6000  regular  troops  and  a  large 
body  of  Canadian  militia  and  Indians,  had  now  passed 
the  boundary  of  the  country ;  and  having  got  this  import- 
ant pass  into  their  possession,  found  the  way  open  before 
them  to  Hudson  River,  and  the  force  which^  had  been  col- 
lected to  oppose  their  progress,  all  scattered  and  flying 
with  precipitation. 

The  rear,  under  Col.  Warner,  was  overtaken  by  Gen. 
Frazer,  and  after  an  action  forced  to  fly.  Gen.  Burgoyne 
pursued  by  water,  and  sent  Lieut.  Col.  HMl  onward,  who 
met  Col.  Long  at  Battle  Hill,  and  after  suffering  much  in 
an  engagement  of  two  hours,  was  reinforced  by  some  In- 
dians, who  came  up  in  time  to  save  him,  and  to  induce  the 
Americans  to  retreat.  At  Hubbardton,  the  latter  suffered 
severely,  and  lost  their  stores  at  Skeenesborough,  where 
Burgoyne  stopped  to  make  arrangements  for  future  ope- 
rations. During  his  delay,  Gen.  Schuyler  obstructed  the 
channel  of  Wood  Creek,  removed  every  thing  valuable  from 
the  country,  and  took  the  f»torP5  from  Fort  Georjre  to  Fo'' 


v;-.' 


TRAVELLER. 


127 


£dnrard ;  sending  for  regular  troops,  and  calling  for  the 
militia  of  the  neighbouring  states,  both  which  were  sup- 
plied. Gen.  Arnold  and  Col.  Morgan  joined  him  with  a 
body  of  riflemen,  and  Gen.  Lincoln  with  the  New-Eng- 
land militia ;  and  he  fell  back  to  Saratoga  and  Stillwater. 

Battle  op  Bennington. 

While  the^e  preparations  were  making  for  a  general 
engagement,  the  battle  of  Bennington  occurred,  which 
must  now  be  introduced  to  preserve  the  order  of  time. 
Being  in  want  of  provisions,  Gen.  Burgoyne  had  despatch- 
ed Lt.  Col.  8aum  with  his  Hessians,  to  seize  the  public 
stores  at  Bennington.  He  was  supported  by  Lieut.  Col. 
Brechman,  who  stopped  at  Baten  Kill.  Brig.  Ge  %  Stark 
with  the  New- Hampshire  troops,  joined  by  Col.  \«arner, 
attacked  Col.  Baum  at  the  Wallomsack  River,  where  they 
were  encamped,  July  16th,  (1777,)  and  in  two  hours, 
forced  their  works,  and  completely  defeated  them.  Col. 
Warner  began  the  attack  on  Col.  Brechman,  wounded 
him  mortally,  and  took  him  prisoner,  and  put  his  troops 
to  flight. 

226  of  the  British  troops  were  killed  at  the  battle  of 
Bennington,  or  rather  the  battle  of  HoosaCf  as  it  was 
fought  in  that  town.  700  soldiers  were  taken  prisoners, 
and  36  officers. 

To  return  to  the  principal  scene  of  action.  Gen. 
Gates  now  received  the  command  of  the  American 
troops,  which  had  been  greatly  reinforced ;  and  marching 
them  from  the  east  side  of  Hudson  River,  opposite  Half 
Moon,  to  Stillwater,  on  the  west  side,  took  a  position  on 
Bemis's  Heights,  the  scene  of  the  important  action  soon 
to  be  described. 


BEMIS'S  HEIGHTS. 

A  ridge  of  elevated  ground,  beginning  on  the  left,  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  stretching  off  to- 
wards the  north-west,  offered  great  advantages  for  the 
defence  of  the  road. 


-y  ^5^. 


12S 


THE  NORTHERN 


..^t 


Gen.  Gates'  Camp 


was  about  half  a  mile  from  the  road  on  the  left,  and  his 
quarters  were  in  a  house  which  is  yet  standing,  although 
very  old.  A  bye«road  leads  to  the  place ;  and  the  travel- 
ler, if  he  is  able,  will  find  himself  repaid  by  eiamining 
the  old  entrenchments,  and  afterwards  proceeding  aloi^ 
the  heights,  which  were  occupied  by  the  American  troops. 
By  making  a  considerable  circuit  by  a  road  in  some  places 
rough,  he  may  ride  over  the  encampment  and  the  scenes 
of  the  two  battles,  and  then  come  back  to  the  river  at 
Smith's  little  tavern,  3  miles  above  this  place,  or  cross 
over  to  the  Springs.  The  space  between  the  river  and 
the  brow  of  the  bill  was  crossed  by  a  deep  entrenchment 
defended  with  artillery,  and  almost  impracticable. 

The  American  Lines, 

Three-quarters  of  a  mile  long,  were  furnished  with  a 
breast  work  of  logs,  (the  hills  being  almost  entirely  a 
forest,)  and  the  left  terminated  opposite  the  enemy's 
right.  From  the  left  almost  to  the  centre,  the  ground  is 
level,  and  was  partly  cleared,  yet  much  encumbered  with 
fallen  and  girdled  trees.  An  opening,  left  of  the  centre, 
had  a  battery — thence  a  ravine  ran  to  the  right. 

Near  the  house  once  occupied  by  Gen  Gates,  and  close 
by  a  rail  fence,  are  seen  some  remains  of  the  entrench- 
ments which  defended  the  American  camp.  The  view 
from  many  parts  of  this  elevated  ground  is  extensive  and 
delightful,  embracing  the  fertile  shores  and  uplands  of  the 
Hudson,  with  many  surrounding  hills  and  distant  moun- 
tains. 

It  will  be  Mcollected,  that  the  expedition  under  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  who  proceeded  up  Hudson  River  to  King- 
ston,  was  intended  to  co-operate  with  Gen.  Burgoyne, 
but  failed  to  produce  the  effect. 

A.  ffug  British  Lines 

stretched  from  a  hill  opposite  the  American  left,  in  a 
straight  line  across  the  meadow  to  the  Hudson  River.  The 


TRAVELLER. 


129 


following  account  of  their  approach  from  Lake  George  ia 
from  Gen.  Wilkinson's  Memoirs. 

"  General  Burgoyne  crossed  the  Hudson  River  the  13th 
and  l4th  of  September,  and  advanced  with  great  cireum- 
spection  on  the  15th  from  Saratoga  to  Davocote,  where 
he  halted  to  repair  bridges  in  his  front.  The  16th  was 
employed  on  this  labour,  and  in  reconuoitering ;  on  the 
17th  he  advanced  a  mile  or  two,  resumed  his  march  on 
the  18th,  and  Gen  Arnold  was  detached  by  Gen.  Gates, 
with  1500  men,  to  harass  him  ;  but  after  a  light  skirmish, 
he  returned  without  loss  or  effecting  any  thing  more  than 
picking  up  a  few  stragglers ;  and  the  enemy  moved  for- 
ward, and  encamped  in  two  lines,  about  two  miles  from 
Gen.  Gates ;  hii>  left  on  the  river,  and  his  right  extending 
at  right  angles  to  it,  across  the  low  grounds  about  six 
hundred  yards,  to  a  range  of  steep  and  lofty  heights  oc- 
cupied by  his  elite,  having  a  creek  or  gulley  in  his  front, 
made  by  a  rivulet  which  issued  from  a  great  ravine,  form- 
ed by  the  hills,  which  ran  in  a  direction  nearly  parallel  to 
the  river,  until  within  half  a  mile  of  the  American  camp." 

The  Northern  or  Champlain  Canal,  and  the  coach  road, 
cross  the  ground  occupied  by  the  American  right,  and 
soon  afterwards  that  occupied  by  the  British  lines.  About 
half  a  mile  south  of  the  latter  is  the  house  of  Major  Buel, 
who  served  as  a  guide  to  the  troops,  and  now  conducts 
travellers  to  the  field.  He  is  old  and  poor,  but  strong 
and  active*    ..  . 


*•     ^     The  Battle  Ground 

is  on  an  elevated  plain,  about  two  miles  above  Gen. 
Gates'  camp,  and  the  same  distance  west  from  Smith's  ta- 
vern. It  may  be  taken  in  the  way  from  the  Springs,  but 
it  is  better  to  go  first  to  Smith's  for  a  guide,  and  to  take 
or  prepare  for  refreshment.  From  Smith's  to  the  battle 
ground,  the  road  is  quite  romantic,  along  the  south  side  of 
Cumminskill,  with  a  steep  bank  on  each  side  for  part  of 
the  distance.  Here  Bui^oyne  marched  up  to  extend  his 
right,  and  turn  the  American  left.  The  open  ground  at 
the  end  is  the  field  of  battle. 

The  most  severe*  fighting  in  the  first  battle,  was  at  a 
little  knoll,  in  a  field  on  the  south,  passing  two  fences. 

M2 


/ 


130 


TUB  NORTHEllN 


Battle  or  Sift.  19th. 

In  the  morning,  it  was  reported  by  Col.  dolburn,  who 
was  watching  the  enemy,  that  they  were  beginning  to  as- 
cend the  hill  towards  the  American  left.  Gen.  Gates  sent 
Col.  Morgan  to  oppose  them,  and  the  firing  began  about 
noon.  The  action  extended,  and  in  three  hours  was  ge- 
neral, and  continued  without  interruption  till  dark.  The 
American  troops  engaged  amounted  to  3000 ;  the  British 
to  3500.    The  following  account  is  from  Gen.  Wilkinson. 

"  This  battle  was  perfectly  accidental ;  neither  of  the 
generals  meditated  an  attack  at  the  time,  and  but  for 
Lieut.  Col.  Culburn*s  report,  it  would  not  have  taken 
place ;  Burgoyne*s  movement  being  merely  to  take  ground  i 
on  the  heights  in  front  of  the  great  ravine,  to  give  hij 
several  corps  their  proper  places  in  line,  to  embrace  our 
front  and  cover  his  transport,  stores,  provisions,  and  bag- 
gage, in  the  rear  of  his  left ;  and  on  our  side,  the  de- 
fences of  our  camp  liieing  not  half  completed,  and  rein- 
forcements daily  arriving,  it  was  not  Gen.  Gates's  policj 
to  court  an  action.  The  misconception  of  the  adverse 
chiefs  put  them  on  the  defensive,  and  confintiQ  them  to 
the  ground  they  casually  occupied  at  the  beginning  of  the 
action,  and  prevented  a  single  manoeuvre,  during  one  of 
the  longest,  warmest,  and  most  obstinate  battles  fought  in 
America.  Gen.  Gates  believed  that  his  antagonist  in- 
tended to  attack  him,  and  circumstances  appeared  to  jus- 
tify the  like  conclusion  on  the  part  of  Burgoyne ;  and  as 
the  thickness  and  depth  of  the  intervening  wood  conceal- 
ed the  position  and  movements  of  either  army  from  its 
adversary,  sound  caution  obliged  the  respective  command- 
ers  to  guard  every  assailable  point ;  thus  the  flower  of  the 
British  army,  the  grenadiers  and  light  infantry,  one  thou- 
sand five  hundred  strong,  were  posted  on  an  eminence  to 
cover  its  right,  and  stood  by  their  arms,  inactive  specta- 
tors of  the  conllict,  until  near  sunset^;  while  Gen.  Gates 
was  obliged  to  keep  his  right  wing  on  post,  to  prevent  the 
enemy  from  forcing  that  flank,  by  the  plain  bordering  on 
the  river.  Had  either  of  the  generals  been  property  ap- 
prized of  the  dispositions  of  bis  antagonist,  a  serious  blow 
might  have  been  struck  on  our  left,  or  the  enemy's  right ; 


Vif^\ 


*j<ma^ 


TRAVELLER. 


131 


but  although  nothing  b  more  common,  it  b  m  illiberal  as 
it  if  uqjust,  to  determine  the  merits  of  military  operation! 
by  events  exclusively.  It  was  not  without  experience  that 
the  Romans  erected  temples  to  Fortune.  Later  times 
might  afford  motives  for  edifices,  in  which  Genius  or 
midom  would  have  no  votaries. 

"  The  theatre  of  action  was  such,  that  although  the 
combatiints  changed  ground  a  dozen  times  in  the  course' 
of  the  day,  the  contest  terminated  on  the  spot  where  it 
bMan.    Thi3  may  be  explained  in  a  few  words.    The 
Bntish  line  was  formed  on  an  eminence  in  a  thin  pine 
wood,  having  before  it  Freeman's  farm,  an  oblong  field, 
stretching  from  its  centre  towards  its  right,  the  ground  in 
front  sloping  gently  down  to  the  verge  of  this  field,  which 
was  bordered  on  the  opposite  side  by  a  close  wood.    The 
sanguinary  scene  lay  in  the  cleared  ground,  between  the 
eminence  occupied  by  the  enemy,  and  the  wood  just  de- 
scribed.   The  fire  of  our  marksmen  from  this  wood  was 
too  deadly  to  be  withstood  by  the  enemy  in  line,  and 
when  they  gave  way  and  broke,  our  men  rushing  from 
their  covert,  pursued  them  to  the  eminence,  where,  having 
their  flanks  protected,  they  rallied,  and  charging  in  turn, 
drove  us. back  into  the  wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful  fire 
would  again  force  them  to  fail  back  ;  and  in  this  manner 
did  the  battle  fluctuate,  like  tbe  waves  of  a  stormy  sea, 
with  alternate  advantage  for  four  hours,  without  one  mo- 
ment's intermission.    The  British  artillery  fell  into  our 
possession  at  every  charge,  but  we  could  neither  turn  the 
pieces  upon  the  enemy,  nor  bring  them  off ;  the  wood 
prevented  the  last,  and  the  want  of  a  match  the  first,  as 
the  linstock  was  invariably  carried  off,  and  the  rapidity 
of  the  transitions  did  not  allow  us  time  to  provide  one. 
The  slaughter  of  this  brigade  of  artillerists  was  remark- 
able, the  captain  and  thirly-six  men  being  killed  or  wound- 
ed out  of  forty*eight.     It  was  truly  a  gallant  conflict,  in 
which  deatE  by  familiarity  lost  his  terrors,  and  certainly 
a  drawn  battle,  as  night  alone  terminated  it ;  the  British 
army  keeping  its  ground  in  rear  of  the  field  of  action, 
and  our  corps,  when  they  could  no  longer  distinguish  ob- 
jects, retirins  to  their  own  camp.'* 


138 


THE  NORTHERN 


Thi  interval  bbtwbbn  tub  two  Battles. 

Thif  time,  from  Sept.  19th  till  Oct.  7th,  wbs  deTOted  to 
itrengtbening  their  fortifications,  and  by  Oen.  Gates  to 
Collecting  also  laree  reinforcements  of  militia.  Gen.  Bu^ 
goyne  is  said  to  have  planned  an  attack  on  the  *20th  and 
tut  of  September,  but  fortunately  delayed  until  the  Ame- 
ricans were  in  the  best  situation  to  oppose  him.  Attac)(s 
oil  the  British  pickets  took  place  almost  every  night,  and 
they  were  continually  harassed. 

Battle  of  October  8. 

Oen.  Wilkinson  gives  the  following  description  of  tUs 
battle.  ^ 

**  On  the  afternoon  of  Oct.  7th,  the  advanced  guard  of 
the  centre  beat  to  arms ;  the  alarm  was  repeated  through- 
out the  line,  and  the  troops  repaired  to  their  alarm  posts. 
1  was  at  head  quarters  when  this  happened,  and  with  the 
approbation  of  the  General,  mounted  my  horse  to  inquire 
the  cause ;  but  on  reaching  the  guard  where  the  beat 
commenced,  I  could  obtain  no  other  satisfaction,  but  that 
some  person  had  reported  the  enemy  to  be  advancing 
against  our  left.  I  proceeded  over  open  ground,  and  as- 
cending  a  gentle  acclivity  in  front  of  the  guard,  1  per- 
ceived about  half  a  mile  from  the  line  of  our  encamp- 
ment, several  columns  of  the  enemy,  60  or  70  rods  from 
me,  entering  a  wheat  field  which  had  not  been  cut,  and 
was  separated  from  me  by  a  small  rivulet ;  and  without 
my  glass  1  could  distinctly  mark  their  every  movement. 
After  entering  the  field,  they  displayed,  formed  the  lipe, 
and  set  down  in  double  ranks  with  their  arms  between 
their  legs.  Foragers  then  proceeded  to  cut  the  wheat  or 
standing  straw,  and  I  soon  after  observed  several  officers, 
mounted  on  the  top  of  a  cabin,  from  whence  with  their 
glasses  Ihey  were  endeavouring  to  reconnoitre  our  left, 
which  was  concealed  from  their  view  by  intervening 
woods. 

"  Having  satisfied  myself,  after  fifteen  minutes'  atten- 
tive observation,  that  no  attack  was  meditated,  I  returned 
and  reported  to  the  General,  who  asked  me  what  appear- 


TAAVELLER. 


133 


td  to  be  the  iotention  of  the  enemj.  *  They  are  foraging 
and  endfaTOiuring  to  reconnoitre  your  left ;  and  I  think, 
Sir,  they  offer  you  battle.'  '  What  is  the  nature  of  the 
ground,  and  what  your  opinion  7*  '  Their  front  is  open, 
and  their  flanks  rest  on  the  woods,  under  cover  of  whiCn 
they  may  be  attacked ;  their  right  is  skirted  by  a  lofty 
height.-  I  would  indulge  them.*  *  Well,  then,  order  on 
Morgan  to  begin  the  game.'  I  waited  on  the  Colonel, 
whose  corps  was  formed  in  front  of  our  centre,  and  deli- 
vered the  order.  He  knew  the  ground,  and  inquired  the 
position  of  the  enemy :  they  were  formed  across  a  new 
cultivated  field,  their  grenadiers  with  several  field  pieces 
on  the  left,  bordering  on  a  wood  and  a  small  ravine  form- 
ed by  the  rivulet  before  alluded  to ;  their  light  infantry 
on  the  right,  covered  by  a  worm  fence  at  the  foot  of  the 
bill  before  mentioned,  thickly  covered  with  wood ;  their 
centre  composed  of  British  and  German  battalions*  Col. 
Morgan,  with  his  usual  sagacity,  proposed  to  make  a  cir- 
cuit with  his  corps  by  our  left,  and  under  cover  of  the 
wood  to  gain  the  height  on  the  right  of  the  enemy,  and 
from  thence  commence  his  attack,  so  soon  as  our  fire 
should  be  opened  against  their  left ;  the  plan  was  the  best 
which  could  be  devised,  and  no  doubt  contributed  essen- 
tially in  the  prompt  and  decisive  victory  we  gained. 

*'-  This  proposition  was  approved  by  the  General,  and 
it  was  concerted  that  time  should  be  allowed  the  Colonel 
to  make  the  proposed  circuit,  and' gain  his  station  on  the 
enemy's  right  before  the  attack  should  be  made  on  their 
left :  Poor's  brigade  was  ordered  for  this  service,  and  the 
attack  was  commenced  in  due  season  on  the  flank  and 
front  of  the  British  grenadiers,  by  the  New* Hampshire 
and  New- York  troops.  True  to  his  purpose,  Morgan,  at 
this  critical  moment,  poured  down  like  a  torrent  from  the 
hill,  and  attacked  the  right  of  the  enemy  in  front  and 
flank.  Dearborn,  at  the  moment  when  the  enemy's  light 
infantry  were  attempting  to  change  front,  pressed  forward 
with  ardour  and  delivered  a  close  fire ;  then  leaped  the 
fence,  shouted,  charged,  and  gallantly  forced  them  to  re- 
tire in  disorder ;  yet  headed  by  that  intrepid  soldier  the 
Earl  of  Balcarras,,  they  were  immediately  rallied  and 
re-formed  behind  a  fence  in  rear  of  their  first  position ; 
but  being  now  attacked  with  great  audacity  in  front  and 


134 


THE  NORTHERN 


flftoks  by  superior  numbers,  resistance  became  vain,  anU 
tJie  whole  line,  commanded  by  Burgoyne  in  person,  gave 
way  and  made  a  precipitate  and  disorderly  retreat  Co  his 
camp,  leaving  two  12,  and  six  6  pounders  on  the  field, 
with  the  loss  of  more  than  400  officers  and  men  killed, 
wounded,  and  captured,  and  among  them  the  flower  of 
bis  officers,  viz  Brigaditr  Gen.  Frazer,'^  Miyor  Ackland, 
commanding  the  grenadiers.  Sir  Francis  Clark,  his  first 
aid-dc'camp.  Major  Williams,  commanding  officer  of  the 
artillery,  Captain  Money,  deputy  quarter*  master  genera), 
and  many  others.  After  delivering  the  orders  to  General 
Poor,  and  directing  him  to  the  point  of  attack,  I  was  pe- 
remptorily commanded  to  repair  to  the  rear,  and  order  up 
Ten  Broeck*s  brigade  of  York  militia,  8000  strong.  I 
performed  this  service,  and  regained  the  field  of  battle  tat 
the  moment  the  enemy  had  turned  their  back,  fifty-two 
minutes  after  the  first  shot  was  fired.  The  ground  which 
had  been  occupied  by  the  British  grenadiers  presented  a 
scene  of  complicated  horror  and  exultation.  In  the  sqaare 
space  of  twelve  or  fifteen  yards  lay  eighteen  grenadiers  in 
the  agonies  of  death,  and  three  officers  propt  up  against 
stumps  of  trees,  two  of  them  mortally  wounded,  bleed- 
ing, and  almost  speechless.  What  a  spectacle  for  one 
whose  bosom  glowed  with  philanthropy,  and  how  vehe- 
ment the  impulse  which  excites  men  of  sensibility  to  seek 
such  scenes  of  barbarism  ! 

'*  I  found  the  courageous  Colonel  Cilley  a-straddle  on  a 
brasfl  twelve-pounder  and  exulting  in  the  capture— whilst 
a  surgeon,  a  man  of  great  worth,  who  was  dressing  one  of 
the  officers,  raising  bis  blood-besnieared  bands  in  a  frenzy 
of  patriotism,  exclaimed,  Wilkinson,  I  have  dipped  my 
hands  in  British  blood.  He  received  a  sharp  rebuke  for 
his  brutality,  and  with  the  troops  1  pursued  the  hard* 
pressed  flying  enemy,  passing  over  killed  and  wounded 
until  I  heard  one  exclaim,  *  protect  me  Sir,  against  this 
boy.'    Turning  my  eyes,  it  was  my  fortune  to  wrest  the 


*  General  Frazer  was  shot  in  the  meadow,  near  the  fence 
h|r  the  road  side,  just  south  of  the  blacksmith's  shop.  The 
spot  is  marked  by  the  third  tree  in  a  rew  of  poplars. 


TRAVELL£K. 


130 


purpose  of  a  lad  thirteen  or  fourteen  yeart  old,  in  the  act 
of  taking  aim  at  a  wounded  officer  who  lay  in  the  angle 
of  a  worm  fence.    Inquiring  his  rank,  he  answered,  '  I 
had  the  honour  to  command  the  grenadiers  ;*  of  course,  1 
knew  him  to  be  MiOo>^  Ackland,  who  had  been  brougnt  from 
the  field  to  this  place,  ^n  the  back  of  a  captain  Shrimpton 
of  his  own  corps,  under  a  heavy  fire,  and  was  here  depo- 
sited, to  save  the  lives  of  both.     I  dismounted,  took  him 
by  the  hand,  and  expressed  hopes  that  he  was  not  badly 
wounded;  'not  badly,'  replied  this  gallant  officer  and 
accomplished  gentleman,  *but  very  inconveniently,  I  am 
shot  through  both  legs  ;  will  you.  Sir,  have  the  goodness 
to  have  me  conveyed  to  your  camp  ?*    I  directed  my  ser- 
vant to  alight,  and  we  lifted  Acldand  into  his  seat,  and  or- 
dered him  to  be  conducted  to  head  quarters.    1  then 
proceeded  to  the  scene  of  renewed  action,  which  embraced 
Kurgoyne's  right  flank  defence,  and  extending  to  his  left, 
crossed  a  hollow  covered  with  tvood,  about  40  rods  to  the 
entrenchment  of  the  light  infantry.  The  roar  of  cannon  and 
small  arms  at  this  juncture  was  sublime,  between  the 
enemy,  behind  their  woi^s,  and  our  troops  entirely  ex- 
posed, or  partially  sheltered  by  trees,  stumps,  or  hollows, 
at  various  distances,  not  exceeding  180  yards*    This  right 
flank  defence  of  the  enemy,  occupied  by  the  German 
corps  of  Breyman,  consisted  of  a  breast-work  of  rails 
piled  horizontally  between  perpendicular  pickets,  driven 
into  the  earth,  en  potence  to  the  rest  of  his  line,  and  ex- 
tended about  250  yards  across  an  open  field,  and  was  co- 
vered on  the  right  by  a  battery  of  two  guns.    The  interval 
from  the  left  to  the  British  light  infantry  was  committed 
to  the  defence  of  the  provincialists,  who  occupied  a  couple 
of  log  cabins.    The  Germans  were  encamped  immed  <8  tely 
behind  the  rail  breast- work,  and  the  ground  in  front  of  it 
declined  in  a  very  gentle  slope  for  about  120  yards,  when 
it  sunk  abruptly ;  our  troops  had  formed  a  line  under  this 
declivity,  and  covered  breast  high,  were  warmly  engt^d 
with  the  Germans.    From  this  position,  about  sunset,  I 
perceived  Brigadier  General  Learned  advancing  towards 
the  enemy  with  his  brigade,  in  open  column,  I  think  with 
Colonel  M.  Jackson*i^  regiment  in  front,  as  I  saw  Lieu- 
tenant Colonel  Brooks,  who  commanded  it,  near  the  Ge- 
neral when  I  rode  op  te  him.    On  saluting  this  brave  old 


136 


THE  NORTHERN 


b 


soldier,  he  inquired,  'where  can  I  pul  in  with  most  ad?aD- 
tage?'  I  had  particularly  examined  the  ground  between 
the  left  of  the  (vermans  and  the  light  infentry,  occupied 
by  the  provincialists,  from  whence  I  had  observed  a  slack 
fire ;  I  therefore  recommended  to  General  Learned  to  in- 
cline to  his  right,  and  attack  at  that  point ;  he  did  so 
with  great  gallantry ;  the  provincialists  abandoned  their 
position  and  fled ;  the  German  flank  was  by  this  means 
uncovered  ;  they  were  assaulted  vigorously,  overturned  in 
five  minutes,  and  retreated  in  disorder,  leaving  their  gal- 
lant commander,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Breyman,  dead  on 
the  field.  By  dislodging  this  corps,  the  whole  British  en- 
campment was  laid  open  to  us ;  but  the  extreme  darkness 
of  the  night,  the  fatigue  of  the  men,  and  the  disorder  in- 
cident to  undisciplined  troops  after  so  desultory  an  action, 
put  it  out  of  our  power  to  improve  the  advantage ;  and  in 
the  course  of  the  night  General  Bui^oyne  broke  up  his 
camp,  and  retired  to  his  original  position,  which  he  had 
fortified,  behind  the  great  ravine." 

The  British  lost  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
about  600 ;  the  Americans  319.  The  German  officers  said 
they  had  never  before  met  so  vigorous  and  terrible  a  fire. 
Several  American  officers  who  walked  over  the  field  after 
midnight,  found  no  enemy  to  interrupt  them. 


General  Frazer's  Grave 


is  on  the  hill  a  little  west  of  Smith's.  At  his  own  request, 
he  was  buried  in  the  great  redoubt,  the  remains  of  which 
are  plainly  visible. 

Oct.  8tb,  frequent  attacks  were  made  on  Gen.  Balcarras' 
corps,  and  the  British  expected  a  general  action. 

♦  If 

General  Burgotnb's  Retreat 

commenced  that  night  towards  Lake  George  ;  but  he  was 
pursued  and  intercepted  so  promptly,  that  he  was  obliged 
to  stop  and  take  a  position  at  Schuylersville,  near  whicli 
he  surrendered  ten  days  after  the  battle.  The  place  will 
be  particularly  noticed  on  the  "  Excursion  to  Saratoga 
Lake.'* 

After  perusing  the  foregoing  descriptions  of  those  two 


♦"B 

misfortu 

heard  tl 

pected 

us.    I  s^ 

told  meJ 

concern] 

met  8ev4 

hands. 

out  Wa 

filled  m^ 

heard  re 

(le^reesj 

o'clock 

General! 

The  tab! 

a  bed 

tremblii 

'"creast 


"iw^."' 


TRAVELLER. 


137 


ft.. 


i 


mos^  important  battles,  the  trareller  will  be  greatly  in- 
terested in  learning  that  Smith's  inn,  to  which  he  has  be- 
fore been  directed,  was  at  that  period  the 

Quarters  of  Gen.  Burgotke. 

The  house  now  stands  by  the  road  side,  but  the  place 
where  it  then  was  is  a  spot  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  about 
200  yards  from  the  river.  The  cellar  is  still  to  be  seen, 
in  a  field  near  an  apple  tree,  a  little  north  of  the  road  that 
crosses  the  canal.  Wiliard's  Mountain  is  an  eminence 
a  few  miles  off,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  During 
the  last  battle,  the  Americans  had  a  few  cannon  on  the 
rising  ground  above  the  eastern  shore,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
above  Smith's,  and  thence  proceeded  the  shot  of  which 
the  Baroness  Reidesel  speaks  in  the  succeeding  note. 
Several  ladies  of  distinction  were  its  inmates  at  the  time 
when  the  British  troops  were  here,  being  the  wives  of 
some  of  his  principal  officers.  Among  these  were  the 
Baroness  Reidesel,'"  with  her  children,  wife  of  General 


Extract  of  a  letter  from  the  Baroness^  afterwards  pub- 
lished in  Germany. 

♦  "  But  severe  trials  awaited  us,  and  on  the  7th  of  Oct.  our 
misfortunes  began.  I  was  at  breakfast  with  my  husbaud,  and 
heard  that  something  was  intended.  On  the  same  day  I  ex- 
pected Generals  Burgoyne,  Phillips  and  Frazer  to  dine  with 
us.  I  saw  a  great  movement  among  the  troops  ;  my  husband 
told  me,  it  was  merely  a  reconnoissance,  which  gave  me  no 
concern  as  it  often  happened.  I  walked  out  of  the  house  and 
met  several  Indians  in  their  war  dresses,  with  guns  in  their 
hands.  When  I  asked  them  where  they  were  going,  they  cried 
out  War !  War !  (meaning  they  were  going  to  battle. )  This 
filled  me  with  apprehension,  and  I  scarcely  got  home  before  I 
heard  reports  oi  cannon  and  musketry,  which  ^rew  louder  by 
degrees,  till  at  last  the  noise  became  excessive.  About  4 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  instead  of  the  guests  whom  I  expected, 
General  Frazer  was  brought  on  a  litter  mortally  wounded. 
The  table  which  was  already  set,  was  instantly  removed,  and 
a  bed  placed  in  its  stead  for  the  wounded  General.  I  sat 
trembling  in  a  comer;  the  noise  grew  louder  and  the  alarm 
increased ;  the  thought  that  my  husband  might  perhaps  be. 

N 


13£ 


THE  NORTHERN 


Reidesel,  Lady  Harriet  Ackland,  wife  of  Mtyor  Ackland, 
commander  of  the  British  Grenadiers.  The  former  pub- 
lished an  account  of  what  she  saw  during  this  trying  and 


brought  in^  wounded  in  the  same  way,  was  terrible  to  me,  and 
distressed  me  exceedingly.  General  Frazer  said  to  the  sur- 
geon, **tell  me  if  my  wound  is  mortal^  do  not  flatter  me.'' 
The  ball  had  passed  through  his  body,  and  unhappily  for  the 
Creneral,  he  had  eaten  a  very  hearty  breakfast,  by  which  the 
stomach  was  distended,  and  the  ball,  as  the  surgeon  said,  had 
passed  throught  it.  I  heard  him  often  exclfilm  with  a  sigh, 
<<0h  fatal  ambition  !  Poor  General  Burgotne  !  Oh 
MT  POOR  WIFE  !'*  He  was  asked  if  he  had  any  requent 
to  make,  to  which  he  replied,  that  "If  General  Burootnr 

WOULD  PERMIT  IT,  HE  SHOULD  LIKE  TO  BE  BURIED  AT  SIX 
o'clock  in  the  evening  on  the  top  OF  A  MOUNTAIN,  IN 
A  REDOUBT   WHICH  HAD  BEEN   BUILT   THERE."      1  did  nOt 

know  which  way  to  turn,  all  the  other  rooms  were  full  of  sick. 
Towards  evening  I  saw  my  husband  coming,  then  I  forgot  all 
my  sorrows  and  thanked  God  that  he  was  spared  to  me.  He 
ate  in  great  haste  with  me  and  his  aid-de-camp  behind  the 
house.  We  had  been  told  that  we  had  the  advantage  of  the 
enemy,  but  the  sorrowful  faces  I  beheld  told  a  different  tale, 
and  before  my  husband  went  away  he  took  me  one  side,  and 
said  every  thing  was  going  very  bad,  that  I  must  keep  ray  sell 
in  readiness  to  leave  the  place,  but  not  to  mention  it  to  any 
one.  I  made  the  pretence  that  I  would  move  the  next  morninji; 
into  my  new  house,  and  had  every  thing  packed  up  ready. 

*<  Lady  H.  Ackland  had  a  tent  not  far  from  our  house  ;  jit 
this  she  slept,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  she  was  in  the  camp. 
All  of  a  sudden  a  man  came  to  tell  her  that  her  husband  w!i«i 
mortally  wounded  and  taken  prisoner ;  on  hearing  this  m1i*' 
became  very  miserable,  we  comforted  her  by  telling  her,  that 
the  wound  was  only  slight,  and  at  the  same  time  advised  hot- 
to  go  over  to  her  husband,  to  do  which  she  would  certainly 
obtain  permission,  and  then  she  conld  attend  him  herself ;  sho 
was  a  charming  woman  and  very  fond  of  him.  I  spent  much 
of  the  night  in  comforting  her,  and  then  went  again  to  my 
children  whom  i  had  put  to  bed.  I  could  not  go  to  sleej*,  as  I 
had  General  Frazer  and  all  the  other  wounded  gentlemen  in 
my  room,  and  I  was  sadly  afraid  my  children  would  awake  nTuI 
by  their  crying  disturb  the  dying  man  in  his  last  moments,  wh'> 
often  addressed  me  and  apologized  ^^for  the  trouble  lie  f^avr 
»w«.'*    About  3  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  w^as  told  lie  coiiJd  r^i 


corpse 
to  the 
funera 
being 
lery. 
direct 
injf,  a 
think 
"G 
it  hu(j 
fired 

actior 
the  B| 
with 


TRAVELLER. 


i3d 


ckland, 
ler  pub- 
ring  and 


me,  and 
the  sur- 
tter  me." 
ly  for  the 
nrhich  the 
said,  had 
ith  a  sigh, 
rNE !  Oh 
y  request 

URGOTNR 
BD  AT  SIX 
ffTAIN,  IN 

1  did  not 
all  of  sick. 
[  forgot  all 

0  me.  He 
behind  the 
tage  of  the 
ferent  tale, 
le  side,  md 
:eep  my  sell 
)n  it  to  any 
jxt  morninn; 
p  ready. 

r  house ;  in 
i  the  camp. 
lusband  wiii 
Rg  this  slit' 
ng  her,  tliat 
advised  hor 
Id  certainly 
lierself;  sh'' 
spent  much 
igain  to  my 
,o  sine j>,  as  I 
;entlemen  in 

1  awake  and 
Dments,  wlv> 
ble  he  f:;avr 
hr  roiild  r"' 


dangerous  contest,  after  her  return  to  Europe.  The 
houne  was  converted  into  an  hospital  during  the  second 
battle,  and  Gen.  Frazer  died  on  the  8th  of  October  in  what 
is  now  the  bar  room.     His  grave  is  on  the  hill. 


hold  out  much  loneer ;  I  had  desired  to  be  informed  of  the 
near  approach  of  this  sad  crisis,  and  I  then  wrapped  up  my 
children  in  their  clothes,  and  went  with  them  into  the  room 
below.  About  8  o'clock  in  the  morning  he  died.  After  he 
was  laid  out  and  his  cwpse  wrapped  up  in  a  sheet,  we  came 
again  into  the  room,  and  nad  this  sorrowful  sight  before  us  the 
v^ole  day,  and  to  add  to  this  melancholy  sceiie,  almost  every 
moment  some  officer  of  my  acquaintance  was  brought  in 
wounded.  The  cannonade  commenced  again ;  a  retreat  was 
spoken  of.  but  not  the  smallest  motion  was  made  towards  it. 
About  4  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  I  saw  the  house  which  had 
just  been  built  for  me  in  flames,  and  the  enemy  was  now  not  far 
off.  We  knew  that  General  Burgoyne  would  not  refuse  the 
last  request  of  General  Frazer,  though  by  his  acceding  to  it^ 
an  unnecessary  delay  was  occasioned,  by  which  the  inconve- 
nience of  the  army  was  much  increased.  At  6  o'clock  the 
corpse  was  brought  out,  and  we  saw  all  the  Generals  attend  it 
to  tne  mountain ;  the  chaplain,  Mr.  Brundell,  performed  the 
funeral  service,  rendered  unusually  solemn  and  awful,  from  its 
being  accompanied  by  constant  peals  from  the  enemy's  artil- 
h'ry.  Many  cannon  balls  flew  close  by  me,  but  I  had  my  eyes 
directed  towards  the  mountain,  where  my  husband  was  stand- 
ing, amidst  the  fire  of  the  enemy,  and  of  course,  I  could  not 
thmk  of  my  own  danger. 

"  General  Gates  afterwa.ds  said,  that  if  he  had  known 
it  hud  been  a  funeral  he  would  not  have  permitted  it  to  be 
iired  on. 

♦  *  Lady  Harriet  Ackland  went  to  the  American  camp  after  the 
action,  to  take  care  of  her  husband  before  the  surrender,  and 
the  Baroness  Reidesel  afterwards.  They  were  both  received 
with  the  greatest  kindness  and  delicacy." 


14U 


THE  NOHTH£UN 


BALL3T0N  SPRINGS. 

This  village  is  situated  in  a  little  valley,  surrounded  by 
hills,  with  much  the  aspect  of  having  once  been  the  bed 
of  a  small  lake.  The  high  ground  enclosing  it,  gives  an 
air  of  seclusion  to  the  place,  at  the  same  time  that  it  fur- 
nishes a  variety  of  pleasant  scenery.  The  Kayderos- 
seros  brook  flows  through  the  valley,  in  some  places  over- 
hung by  the  groves  of  forest  trees  that  cover  the  hills. 

The  San^  Souci  Hotel  is  the  principal  house  in  the  place, 
and  is  at  least  equal  in  plan  and  in  arrangement  to  any 
similar  establishment  in  the  country.  Aldridge*s  is  a 
highly  respectable  house,  in  a  very  pleasant  situation. 
Mrs.  Mc  Masters* ;  the  Village  Hotel,  &c.  are  in  the 
neighbourhood. 


SANS  souci 

is  a  building  of  great  size,  occupying  the  corner  where 
the  village*-  street  meets  the  road  to  Saratoga.  It  has  a 
fine  piazza  opening  upon  the  former,  and  presents  a  front 
of  156  feet  long  with  a  wing  extending  back  from  each 
end  150  feet,  all  of  them  three  stories  high,  and  contain- 
ing in  all  lodging  for  nearly  150  persons.  The  dining 
room  can  easily  accommodate  that  number,  and  the  public 
parlour  is  large,  airy  and  pleasant,  extending  to  the  ladies' 
private  parlour.  There  is  a  beautiful  meadow  in  the  rear 
of  the  house  which  is  to  be  made  free  of  some  encum- 
brances, and  to  be  planted  with  trees,  laid  out  in  walks, 
&c.  for  the  convenience  of  visiters. 

Scarcely  any  thing  in  this  country  can  exceed  the  scene 
of  gayety  which  this  house  presents  in  the  visiting  season. 
When  crowded  with  people.  Sans  Souci  is  usually  the 
scene  of  several  balls  in  the  week,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
fishing  parties,  riding  parties,  uc.  &c.  which  fill  up  the 
day.  The  variety  of  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  suf- 
ficient to  attract  many  of  those  who  resort  to  this  place 
of  health  and  pleasure  ;  and  walking  and  riding  will  be 
found  much  more  agreeable  here  than  at  Saratoga.  Some 
of  the  particular  routes  and  objects  will  be  designated 
hereafter. 


ided  by 
the  bed 
gives  an 
U  it  fiir- 
Biyderos- 
;es  over- 
hills, 
he  place, 
it  to  any 
;e*s  is  a 
lituation. 
e  ill  the 


ler  where 
It  has  a 
its  a  front 
irom  each 
'\  contain- 
^he  dining 
the  public 
the  ladies' 
in  the  rear 
ne  encum- 
t  in  walks, 

1  the  scene 
ng  season, 
sually  the 
ling  of  the 
fill  up  the 
iOod  is  suf- 
I  this  place 
ing  will  be 
)ga.  Some 
designated 


THE 


•"ihisv",'';: 

of  a  nrnkU  '.v^iu;, 

£».'she£   a  variety 
•A?rOii  {ir^jKjk  fiowe  ■■ , 

hf'i},^  by  the  ja;rov'" 

Tb«  Sotns*  Souci 

.i^hJy  reii)*;ci»v'>4'.. 
■>i*\«v  Ivic  lyf aster' 


■'  - .  •■•jcc  be«n  J^:-  '--., 

'I'.nnfi^  it,  gi  -'•  «^ 

*a.isie  time  thai  i:  'tjj-, 

.    .     Thfl  Kayd^yt^^'' 

.  !i  >-'roe  pluct'S  ©♦»*-:;■• 

.over the  hiliSv 

n  aRJt  ifj  arran*eraen?.  tu  9^^ 
■c  <'ou«tr).     Aldrulge*«   »;>■ 

-«#iwiy|,  ^c.   are  in 


t™*    ".  ig  ?jf  ;?reftt  *»xc,  oeoiipf ing  the  iiorner  wU- 

■    i4  t-o  Saratoga.     Kt  h«- 
*  ■  '     V'-  -■  '^eots  ia  ^- 
from    ■; 

-'•■  ■"  ■'■      ^    :  i^eisottji.     TN  4k 

5^'^--  '  ■  '  ■■^-  *:er,  and  the  yAi-- 

P«-  ••        ■  .         .  .  .  •  iin«i  to  the  hi.-; 

private  pajjf .;  ;    m  i«  »  IwNtt/tiful  t»eadoiv  In  ihfc  : 

of  the  housft  which  is  to  be  mode  free  of  soirwi  (Bf!-:'^  . 
br«nce*,  and  to  h  planted  mth  trQus,  laid  dut  ia  Wii'k 
&c.  forvtli^',  coBVfirM^rwfe  of  visiter.*. 

^Sczrdeh  my  t;- ..  g  to  ')i*feaunr,ry  can  eioet-d  the  ^ 
<>^Py^^    ■       H  tfei;.  i  -es^ntsin  tbf  mitiag'^-.- 

Wis^ii^  ^  Saa"  Souci  i^   ■      .  -^ 

sceiK-  ol  .■    . , ;.  "'-'■■„  to  say  "■■  -^  '^■• 

'le  variety  of  ^vMum"^  hi  tb«  neigUbourfeaeu'is  «ik' 
'  oi"  those  w'h.i  resort  * 


Utf 


ore 


ol 


nd  walkuig  and,  rjfa: ;.. 
;»nfl  objects  i?ilt  be  1 


(i{i  •  J. 


.0  *#-- 


It- 1^«*    ••' 
Titjf  ia  ■'■■ 
Tom  *■ 

the  • 
in  iht;  . 

tin  vi-iJk/. 

.».  I. ; '.  ■ 
"''IT  '- 


© 


;;*^' 


X 


'.*v,..5 


^rX 


TKAVELLEU. 
Mr.  Aldridoe's  House 


141 


tvas  the  first  respectable  one  ever  opened  in  this  place  for 
the  accommodation  of  visiters.  Its  size  being  sufficient 
only  for  a  more  limited  number  of  persons,  a  visiter  of 
quiet  habits  or  in  ill  health|  will  here  find  himself  retired 
from  the  noise  and  bustle  which  enter  so  largely  into  the 
amusements  o{  the  more  gay  and  robust.  The  house  has 
ft  pleasant  garden,  with  a  long  flight  of  steps  leading  to  c 
commanding  elevation  which  overlooks  the  village  below. 

Mr.  Corey's  House 

is  situated  at  a  little  distance  south  of  Aldridge's  and  has 
a  pleasant  appearance,  having  a  handsome  green  in  front 
and  a  piazza.     It  was  however  closed  in  1825. 

The  La  Fayette  Spring, 

which  yields  a  fine  and  sparkling  chalybeate  water,  was 
discovered  early  in  the  summer  of  1825.  It  is  supposed  by 
many  to  be  in  fact  identical  with  **  the  Old  Spring,'' 
which  is  soon  to  be  spoken  of,  being  distant  from 
it  only  about  thirty  feet.  It  is  very  cold  and  highly 
charged  with  oxyde  of  iron  and  carbonic  acid  gas,  which 
have  given  it  a  high  reputation. 

The  Old  Spring, 

which  is  in  the  middle  of  the  street  opposite  Aldridge^ 
was  the  first  discovered  in  all  this  part  of  the  country. 
It  is  said  that  the  inhabitants  were  induced  to  trust  to  its 
peculiar  virtues  by  the  example  of  the  deer  of  the  forest, 
which  had  resorted  to  it  in  such  numbers  as  to  form  beaten 
paths  from  every  direction  to  the  spot.  In  1792  there 
was  not  a  house  within  two  or  three  miles  of  this  spot. 

The  Old  Spring  has  lost  much  of  its  original  excellence, 
which  appears  to  be  in  a  good  degree  transferred  tu  the 
La  Fayette. 

The  SaUne,  or  United  States  Spring 

is  near  the  bathing  house  connected  with  the  Sans  Souci. 
It  was  discovered  (our  or  five  years  since,  and  contains  a 

N2  ■ 


14<i 


THE  NORTHERN 


large  qutntitj  of  oxyde  of  iron,  together  with  gbuber 
and  otner  itlti,  lo  that  it  is  at  once  a  strong  saline  and 
chalybeate  water.  The  iron  is  in  such  quantitiiis  as  to 
be  perceptible  to  the  taste. 

The  neighbouring  country  was  almost  a  perfect  wil- 
derness at  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war ;  for  the 
natural  military  route  between  Canada  and  the  U.  States 
lay  through  it,  and  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians  were  so 
near  on  the  western  side,  and  were  so  frequently  passing 
over  it  on  their  war  parties,  that  few  white  men  were 
willing  to  encounter  the  dangers  and  risks  to  which  sucli 
a  residence  must  necessarily  be  exposed. 

For  some  years  the  only  place  where  visiters  could  find 
•belter  here,  was  in  a  log  house,  near  the  Old  Spring, 
which  was  for  some  time  the  only  object  of  notice.  The 
springs  near  the  Sans  Souci  were  subsequently  diacuvei- 
ed,  and  have  eigoyed  their  portion  of  celebrity.  In  1S17 
four  springs  of  diftierent  qualities  were  found  near  the 
great  manufactory  built  by  Mr.  Low.  Their  history  is 
worthy  of  attention,  as  it  shows  the  singular  changes 
which  sometimes  take  place  in  this  mysterious  soil, 
wberti  springs  occasionally  appear,  change  places  and  dis- 
appear, without  any  apparent  cause.  Some  surprising 
power  is  conMtantly  at  work  somewhere  beneath  the  sur- 
face, which  the  wisest  students  of  nature  are  unable  to 
explain  or  to  comprehend.  The  brand)  of  the  Kaydc- 
roMeros  brook  which  flows  through  the  Spa  Villuge,  was 
raised  to  an  unusual  height  by  a  flood  in  the  summer  of 
1S17,  which  threw  its  current  into  a  new  channel  further 
towards  tho  east  than  its  former  one.  The  old  bed  wa^ 
thus  left  dry ;  and  four  springs  were  found  rising  side  by 
sido,  all  of  them  within  a  space  of  about  twenty  feet 
squiire,  and  ail  of  qualities  entirely  different.  One  re- 
sembled in  some  degree  the  old  spring,  but  contained  a 
surplus  of  carbonic  acid  gas  and  sparkled  like  champaign ; 
the  next  contained  much  glauber  salts,  and  was  some- 
what like  the  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga ;  the  third  was 
brine,  like  sea  water ;  and  the  fourth  perfectly  fresh.  A 
platform  was  raised  that  covered  them  all,  and  wooden 
tubes  were  sunk  into  the  two  first,  which  were  only  two 
or  three  feet  apart ;  and  for  three  or  four  seasons  they  at- 
'  tracted  all  visiters,  so  much  so  that  the  Old  Sprini;  was 


ga». 


gress 
rival, 


TKAVELLEK. 


143 


deserted.  The  first  spring  ivas  peculiarly  fine,  and  the 
favourite  of  all ;  but  it  at  length  began  to  lotie  its  flavour, 
gas,  and  virtue ;  and  the  four  springs  now  flow  oflf  together 
in  a  stream  of  almost  pure  water. 

Qualities  of  the  Ballston  Waters. 

JNew-Haven,  April  27,  1824. 
Dear  Sir,  • 

You  request  my  opinion  of  the  mineral  waters  at  Ball- 
ston Spa*  They  are  in  my  view  very  valuable,  and  I  can 
discern  no  serious  reason  why  public  opinion  should  be 
less  favourable  to  them  now  than  formerly.  I  became 
acquainted  with  the  Old  Spring,  near  Mr.  Aldridge's,  in 
consequence  of  using  its  waters  uninterruptedly  at  the 
iountain  head,  for  a  month,  in  the  Autumn  of  1797;  and 
a  residence  of  the  same  length  of  time,  at  Ballston  Spa, 
during  the  last  summer,  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  re- 
newing my  acquaintance  with  the  Old  Spring,  and  of  be- 
coming familiar  also  with  those  more  recently  discovered 
fountains,  which  have  been  opened  and  brought  into  use. 
The  Old  Spring,  appears  substantially,  as  it  did  in  1797, 
and  is,  I  suppose,  surpassed  by  no  mineral  fountain  in 
the  world  as  a  bribk,  copious,  slightly  saline,  and  strong 
chalybeate.  The  principal  spring'*'  under  the  bath  house, 
while  it  is  also  a  brisk  chalybeate,  is  beside  in  a  high  de- 
gree saline,  and  is  probably  unrivalled  as  a  natural  com- 
bination of  this  class.  Its  cathartic  properties  are  strong, 
and  its  tonic  powers  equally  so.  There  is  no  spring, 
either  at  Ballston  Spa  or  Saratoga  Springs,  which  1  should 
prefer  to  this.  1  speak  of  my  own  experience — for  some 
persons,  a  brisk  cathartic  water,  scarcely  chalybeate  at  all, 
like  the  Congress  Spring,  may  be  preferable.  The  Con- 
gress Spring  is  also,  so  far  as  I  am  informed,  without  a 
rival,  in  its  class — but  it  is  scarcely  proper  to  call  it  a 


*  Mr.  Silliman  has  analyzed  the  water  of  this  spring,  which 
is  now  called  the  United  States,  and  found  half  a  gaUon  of  it 
to  contain  270  grains  pf  salt ;  iron,  lime,  and  magnesia,  100.  It 
is  at  once  highly  saline  and  chalybeate,  which  is  very  remark- 
able. 


^!^^^o> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/y 


/ 


4^ 


y    4^ 


y^ 


1.0 


I.I 


|50     ^^~        W^B 

Ki  §M   12.2 

Itt    136      Mil 

iM    12.0 


Ui 

lit 

m 


Ml 


|l.25  |U   ,,.6 

< 

6"     

> 

Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WItSTER.N.Y.  M5<^0 

(716)S72-4S03 


/^> 

^\^>^ 

v*  «? 

^<;> 

Vu 


<\ 


144 


XHE  NORTHERN 


chalybeate,  as  it  is  so  only  in  a  slight  degree.  There  ia 
no  reason  why  the  establishments  at  Saratoga  Springs  and 
at  Ballston  Spa  should  regard  each  other  with  an  un- 
friendly feeling.  The  accommodations  of  both  are  too 
good  to  need  praise  from  me,  and  the  bounty  of  the 
Creator  has  poured  forth  these  fountains  of  health,  in 
the  great  valley  (for  I  regard  the  springs  of  Ballston  Spa 
and  Saratoga  as  parts  of  one  great  system)  with  a  pro- 
fuse  benevolence,  unknown  in  any  other  country.  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  variety,  copiousness,  and  excellence  of  the 
springs  at  Saratoga — but  those  of  Ballston  Spa  are  in  no 
respect  except  that  of  number  and  variety  inferior  to  them, 
and  I  trust  the  day  is  not  dbtant,  when  a  truly  liberal 
feeling,  will  in  both  villages,  lead  to  mutual  commenda- 
tion) and  an  amicable  rivalry,  in  efforts  to  please  and  to 
accommodate  their  guests ;  and  the  salutary  effect  wiQ 
then,  I  am  persuaded,  soon  be  visible,  in  the  increased 
number  of  visiters,  from  every  part  of  this  great  conti^ 
nent ;  a  number  more  than  sufficient  to  fill  both  villages, 
and  fully  to  reward  the  spirited  and  liberal  proprietors  of 
their  respective  public  establishments. 

With  the  best  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  both  places 
I  remain 

Your  Obt.  Servt. 

B.  SILLIMAN. 


Lovo^s  Manufactory  is  four  stories  high,  about  170  feet 
long,  and  40  feet  wide,  with  a  large  room  in  each  of  the 
three  upper  stories  about  115  feet  long.    It  is  not  used. 

There  is  a  Reading  Room  and  Circidating  Library  kept 
at  the  store  of  Mr.  Gomstock,  and  a  book  is  also  kept,  in 
which  the  names  of  visiters  arriving  at  the  principal 
houses  are  daily  entered,  for  the  information  of  others. 

The  Lover^s  Leap  is  a  precipice  of  60  or  70  feet,  which 
overhangs  the  Kayderosseros,  and  overlooks  a  romantic 
and  secluded  little  valley,  at  the  distance  of  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  springs.  The  road  leads  up  the  hill  beyond 
Aldridge*8,  and  through  a  dark  pine  grove.  A  half  trod- 
den path  turns  off  at  the  right  and  conducts  to  the  preci- 
pice,  which  is  a  pleasant  retreat  in  the  heat  of  the  day, 
affording  a  fine  shade  and  frequently  a  pleasant  breeze,  as 


TRAVELLER. 


145 


well  as  the  view  of  a  wild  scene  below,  to  which  a  steep 
descent  conducts  on  the  left  hand. 


■A      -    K 


Ballston  Lake 


is  a  pretty  little  sheet  of  water  about  4  miles  distant ;  but 
as  Saratoga  Lake  is  much  larger,  more  accessible  and 
more  beautiful,  and  is  supplied  with  accommodations  for 
fishing  parties,  it  is  more  worthy  of  attention,  and  to  the 
description  of  it  we  refer  the  stranger.  The  distance 
is  4^  miles,  and  5^  from  Saratoga  Springs,  It  is  only  six 
miles  from  Ballston  Spa  to  the  south  end,  where  is  the 
finest  view  of  it,  on  the  way  to  the  battle  ground.  The 
road  is  rather  stony  and  rough,  but  perfectly  safe,  and  has 
some  pleasant  spots,  and  several  extensive  views.  The 
Green  Mountains  in  Vermont  present  a  very  noble  appear- 
ance, and  several  ridges  of  hills  between,  afterwards  suc- 
ceeded by  the  swelling  and  fertile  shores  of  the  Hudson, 
form  a  various  and  delightful  landscape. 

Jlfr.  Stitnpson*8  Farmin  GaUowayf  is  11  miles  west  from 
Ballston  ^rings. 

He  is  an  excellent  farmer  and  his  house  a  very  good 
inn.  Take  the  road  of  the  sand  hill  by  Aldridge^s,  passing 
near  the  Lover's  Leap,  and  following  the  Johnstown  road. 
His  house  is  on  a  high  ridge  of  land ;  the  farm  contains 
800  acres,  360  of  which  are  cultivated,  principally  for 
grain  and  grass.  He  raises  40  or  50  bushels  of  wheat  to 
an  acre  by  late  ploughing,  about  3  inches.  He  soaks  his 
seed  wheat  in  brine  and  rolls  it  in  lime,  to  preserve  it 
from  insects.  Other  seeds  he  rolls  in  plaster.  He  has 
raised  700  bushels  of  potatoes  to  an  acre.  His  corn  is 
planted  two  feet  apart  one  way,  and  two  and  a  half  the 
other. 

His  fences  are  of  stone  and  wood— -a  low  stone  wall 
with  timber  in  it,  to  secure  the  parts  above  ground.  A 
fence  of  two  rails  is  thus  made  above ;  the  rails  being  of 
plank,  about  four  inches  wide.  Of  this  kind  of  fence,  he 
has  on  his  farm  what  would  measure  15  miles. 

The  place  enjoys  so  fine  and  healthy  a  situation,  and 
the  inn  is  so  well  kept,  being  one  of  the  best  in  this  part 
of  the  country,  that  it  is  the  resort  of  many  visiters  from 
different  quarters,  who  frequently  spend  days  or  weeks 


140 


THE  NORTHERN 


there.     The  charges  are  more  moderate  than  at  the 
Springs. 

The  view  is  commanding  and  the  air  fine.  From  an 
eminence  west  of  the  house,  no  less  than  13  counties  may 
he  discovered.  The  church  is  half  a  mile  distant,  and 
the  road  to  Ballston  pretty  good. 

Remarks  on  the  Routes. 

At  the  Springs  many  a  traveller  has  to  arrange  his  fu- 
ture journeys,  either  for  business  or  pleasure ;  and  as  Ball> 
ston  and  Saratoga  are  pre-eminently  places  of  leisure, 
itome  general  hints  concerning  the  different  routes  will 
not  be  misplaced. 

NORTH.  The  roads  to  Lake  George,  Lake  Champlain, 
Montreal,  &c.  belonging  more  properly  to  Saratoga,  will 
be  given  under  that  head. 

EAST.  The  traveller  is  referred  to  the  same  place  and 
Albany  also  for  the  roads  leading  into  New  England. 

SOUTH.  Two  or  three  steam  boats  leave  Albany  for 
New- York  every  day,  and  as  many  arrive  from  that  city. 
Several  others  will  also  ply  every  week  between  New- 
York  and  Troy.  They  touch  at  numerous  points  on 
the  river,  so  that  passengers  can  land  where  they  please. 
The  newspapers  will  furnish  all  necessary  information 
concerning  their  periods  of  departure  and  return  ;  and 
coaches  from  the  Springs  so  regulate  their  time  as  to  ac- 
commodate the  traveller.  The  lai^er  boats  are  generally 
preferred,  on  account  of  the  fine  air  and  prospect  enjoyed 
from  their  upper  decks ;  but  they  are  sometimes  more 
crowded  than  the  small  ones,  and  when  the  water  in  the 
river  is  low,  some  of  them  can  come  up  no  higher  than 
the  Overslaugh,  4  miles  below  Albany,  to  which  place 
passengers  are  taken  down  in  the  little  steam  boat  Fire^ 
Fly,  &c.  The  safety  barges  are  once  more  recommended, 
for  their  superior  safety  and  convenience. 

There  are  three  roads  to  Albany  :  by  Waterford,  by 
Schenectady,  and  by  Cliffton  Park,  in  coaches  and  canal 
boats. 

The  last  will  be  the  pleasantest,  if  well  attended 
to.  From  Waterford  you  may  take  either  side  of  the 
river.  On  the  west  side  are  the  Cohoes  Falls,  the 
remarkable  "  nine  locks*'  on  the  Erie  Canal,  the  junctioB 


TRA^TILLER. 


147 


of  the  two  Canals,  and  route  of  the  former  quite  to  Al- 
bany. On  the  east  side  the  road  passes  over  a  bridfl;e  to 
Lansinburgh,  through  Troy,  and  rc-crosses  by  a  good  and 
safe  ferry. 

For  notices  of  these  places  and  objects,  see  pages  51, 
and  55,  56. 

The  aeecnd  road,  which  goes  throui^h  Schenectady,  is 
rather  circuitous,  but  will  give  the  stranger  an  opportunity 
of  travelling  27  miles  on  the  Erie  Canal,  along  the  course 
of  the  Mohawk,  and  a  sight  of  the  various  objects  men- 
tioned in  page  119,  &c.  A  considerable  part  of  two  days 
will  be  necessary  on  this  route  from  Ballston  to  Albany, 
bat  a  single  one  will  be  sufficient  if  he  takes  the  stage 
coaches  to  Clifflon  Park,  on  the  Erie  Canal,  and  most 
of  these  objects  will  be  seen. 

WEST.  The  grand  western  route,  through  Utica,  and 
leading  to  Niagara  and  Lake  Erie,  has  been  already, 
traced  out  with  sufficient  particularity  for  the  use  of  most 
travellers  ;  and  to  that  those  readers  are  referred,  who 
intend  to  pursue  that  course  after  leaving  the  Springs. 
The  nearest  point  on  this  route  is  Schenectady,  whence 
the  traveller  may  proceed  up  the  Mohawk,  either  by  the 
stage  road  or  in  the  canal  boats.    See  page  58. 

The  direct  road  to  Schenectady,  however,  is  sandy,  and 
quite  uninteresting; 

V  SARATOGA  SPRINGS 


are  7  miles  from  Ballston  Springs,  and  a  public  coach 
generally  passes  between  these  two  places  every  day ; 
beside  a  number  of  other  carriages  on  their  way  from 
Albany,  &c.  What  is  called  the  regular  price  for  these 
7  miles  is  50  cents  for  a  seat.  The  old  road  is  level  and 
sandy,  and  if  the  weather  be  dry  the  traveller  will  pro- 
bably be  incommoded  with  dust,  unless  he  rides  in  the 
morning  or  evening  when  the  ground  is  moist  with 
the  dew.  The  new  road  passes  over  h^her  ground, 
and  is  pleasauter  and  harder,  although  somewhat 
longer.  You  may  pass  out  by  the  court  house,  east,  or 
turn  to  the  right  just  below  Sans  Souci.  You  enjoy  some 
fine  views  of  the  distant  hills  and  mountains ;  and  the. 


148 


THE  NORTHERN 


soil  and  crops  are  generally  much  better  than  on  the  old 
road. 

The  village  is  quite  concealed  until  jou  are  within  a 
short  distance,  and  then  the  clusters  of  frail  board  build- 
ings which  spring  up  among  the  stumps  of  trees  lately 
felled  in  the  skirts  of  the  pine  forest,  show  what  an  un- 
natural surplus  of  population  the  place  contains  during  the 
visiting  season,  which  is  principally  in  July  and  August.  It 
may  not  be  unseasonable  to  mention  here  the  principal 
houves  in  the  order  in  which  they  were  supposed  to  stand 
on  the  list  of  gentility  in  1825 :  the  Congress  Hall  $10  per 
week,  United  States  Hotel,  do.  the  Pavilion  do.  and  Union 
Hall  $8. 

On  reaching  the  brow  of  a  hill  which  descends  into 
the  village,  the  street  lies  in  full  view,  with  all  the  princi- 
pal houses.  On  the  right  is  Congress  Hall  three  stories 
high  with  a  row  of  17  columns,  rising  from  the  ground  to 
the  eaves ;  opposite  is  Union  Hall  with  a  row  of  10  similar 
columns;  over  which  are  seen  the  brick  walls  of  the 
United  States  Hotel ;  and  still  beyond,  and  on  the  other 
tide,  the  roof  of  the  Pavilion.  From  this  view  the  village 
is  represented  in  the  accompanying  print,  which  was  taken 
on  the  spot  the  last  season. 

On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  Congress  Spring, 
the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is  seen  at  a  short 
distance  on  the  right,  usually  surrounded  with  a  throng  of 
people. 


Congress  Hall 

has  generally  enjoyed  the  highest  favour  among  the  most 
fashionable  visiters  at  Saratoga,  on  account  of  its  fine  and 
imposing  appearance,  its  contiguity  to  the  Spring,  the 
number  and  size  of  its  apartments,  and  the  style  in  which 
it  is  furnished  and  kept.  It  is  196  feet  long  on  the  street, 
with  two  wings  of  60  feet  running  back,  and  contains 
lodging  for  IflO.  The  first  floor  in  front  is  divided  in  the 
following  manner :  a  dining  room  in  the  middle,  capable- 
of  containing  tables  for  all  the  house  can  accommodate ; 
next  the  dancing  hall,  about  80  feet  long,  and  south  the 
ladies*  private  parlour.  The  price  of  board  is  $10  per 
week.  s  V. 


on  the  old 


re  within  a 
t)oard  build- 
trees  lately 
rhat  an  un- 
s  during  the 
August.  It 
le  principal 
led  to  stand 
jail  $10  per 
K  and  Union 

seends  into 
II  the  princi- 
bree  stories 
le  ground  to 
of  10  similar 
vails  of  the 
m  the  other 
nr  the  village 
:h  was  taken 

;ress  Spring, 
1  at  a  short 
1  a  throng  of 


ffc«r 


hi''^- 


W 


)ng  the  most 
f  its  fine  and 
Spring,  the 
yie  in  which 
»n  the  street, 
and  contains 
ivided  in  the 
idle,  capable 
commodate ; 
id  south  the 
I  is  $10  per 


. «.  .<:. 


^«ff' 


yi'.r 


?< 


^ 


Till'  '^'^'^■•'■"•B'oxr 


i»;d  cropn  art 


„'f:s<: 


The  villo^e  ix 
short  (Iwtancr,  ;♦.' 
ing?  wliich  ^piijii. 
feliftti  in  the  nkcf ;  .. 
riaturai  sur^)lus  of  popoii 
visiting seasoii,  which  h  j 
nifty  not  he.  unsea^onab; 
hou.»"e»<  iv,  the  order  in  w  ■ 
on  tH«  It3l  ol  gcnriUr.y  in 
'vtHik,  United  States  Uot' 
liall  $^, 

On  reaching  tiu    ..s 
the  villagej  thp  strp^  t  J^< 
pal  houses.     On  the  right  ij  Uungrea^  Hal!  thsi^r 
high  with  a  ro>v  of  17  coluynns,  rising^  froni  Ihc  -i 
the  ^jafCi^ ,  nppo.siife  is  Union  Hal!  with  a  row  of  J  * 
rohim^«rt  J  •,t^';.    vfhieh  are  sf«ftj  the  hrick  nalU    . 

oiled  Sifetiis  Sfrst^t^l ;  »n  1       •  ueyond,  antl  on  ikt 
f^O^i  ikh  VQiii'  0i  ifeii  i  :^  ihi^  vit'w  till! 

•:  print,  which  "^mi^ 

■  :".  the  Co/!gr<j«s  Sf- 
*:■.'«,  I»  3*en  ai  a  •'■■ 
'  ■  .-;•.>**;. '•ifca^Sff*,  i^ H^i  a  thr**s*.. 


.  i«  4iiiy  44r4  Amu'U^'. 

r,<  ro  'upposft:. 

■nc.  Favilion  'lo.  »««  ■ 

Si!!  whi'h  dc'cemi: 
5  vie^T,  wiru  all  tK»  , - 


tr    •■■    --     ■*■    • 

'■■^d  it\  Xh^:  '- 

f:.-'    •■.•.     ■  . 

>  *'hi\  :*i"-.  s. 

Ol5    V^ 

the  p'x- 

,  .- 

i\kiti-  --■ 

/8A!tu;  . 

CoKGP.ess  Hall 

has  gcnerJilly  enjoyed  the  highest  iavour  amonjr  ' 
f'ashionahie  vistv«ri  at  Sat-aioga,  on  account  of  it  . 
imposing  appearaiK  r    Ks  canUgruity  to  the  Sprr- 
tiunaber  and  >ii7:e  of  ti«  «partmenti,  and  the  stylo  t  ; 
it.  i.s  furnished  ynfi  k^A,    it  is  51^0  (eet  !<9T»g  v%i  'Jk*  . 
with  two  wing';  of  GO  tret  r!i;u' -'.js;   btiiffc,  and  tJi^i. 
fealsjinii  f<itr  1 SO^     The  f\T^k  ^aar  irj  front  f»  divided 

»  '.vifi*i«;  majsner:   a  dining  rmxa  in  the  middi 
v       •*  150 mij;  tables  for  a!l  tbo  house  can  accc>''»>v  > 
«^  •  danejiig  hall,  aboKt  8ft  ibet  longj  and  '.■  ^  ' 

Itti?.        rivftte  psirloiir.    The  price  of  board  i^ 


kuk     : 


m^ 


at  a   ' 


*•: 


t 


> 


P, 


'X'? 


y^.;  f 


•>•■> 


;*."<•*, 
«.;•''• 


>.-.  I 


-•J  ^ 


-*  ;»V 


X- 


r- 


Union 
Spring, 
was  kn( 
Jobnsoi 


TRAVELLER. 


149 


The  United  States  Hall  ' 

is  n  fine  building  of  brick,  three  stories  higb,  with  a  colo- 
nade  rising  only  to  the  second  story.  This  house  is  ex* 
cellently  well  kept,  and  is  more  substantially  built  than 
any  of  the  rest,  which  are  of  a  light  construction,  fit  only 
for  the  mildest  weather ;  but  it  is  deficient  in  public  roomS| 
in  which  particular  Congress  Hall  so  much  excels.  It  is 
also  raised  so  high  from  the  street  as  not  to  be  convenient 
of  access,  although  many  prefer  it  on  that  very  account. 

The  Pavilion. 

This  is  a  very  good  house  for  one  of  its  size,  and  will 
be  found  free  from  much  of  flib  bustle  of  the  larger  ones^ 
while  the  resort  of  company  is  n<^  less  respectable  and  gen* 
teel.  Those  who  wish  to  drink  often  of  the  Flat  Rock 
water  will  prefer  it,  as  that  Spring  is  only  a  few  steps 
from  it  in  the  rear.  There  is  a  fine  bathing  house  connect- 
ed with  it,  and  a  shady  little  wood  not  far  beyond  by  the 
road  side,  on  the  way  to  the  Round  Rock  Spring. 

Tn  >N  r  LL       .,   ...[-^   .  .  ."•     ..-, 

is  the  resort  of  those  who  wi^h  to  have  the  most  conve* 
nient  access  to  the  waters  of  the  Congress  Spring,  or  to 
participate  more  moderately  in  the  amusements  of  the 
place,  and  to  avoid  the  inconveniences  of  gaiety  and  mirth, 
produced  by  the  continued  round  of  balls  and  dances  in 
the  other  principal  houses. 

The  Congress  Springt 

which,  as  was  before  remarked,  is  the  great  source  from 
which  this  place  derives  its  celebrity  and  its  show  of  wealth 
and  importance,  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Putnam.  He 
built  the  first  house  near  it  for  the  accommodation  of  in- 
valids, which  was  subsequently  enlarged  to  the  present 
Union  Hall,  now  kept  by  his  son.  The  Round  Rock 
Spring,  of  which  more  particular  notice  will  soon  be  taken, 
was  known  before,  having  been  discovered  to  Sir  WUIiaoi 
Johnson  by  an  Indian,  while  the  country  was  yet  a  wil*^ 


150 


THE  NORTH£RN 


dernesfl.  The  Congress  Spring  was  long  concealed  by  the 
neighbouring  broolc  which  formerly  passed  over  it ;  but  its 
Taluable  qualities  being  discovered,  it  has  attracted  uni- 
versal attention,  and  the  benefits  of  its  waters  are  annually 
dispensed  to  thousands. 

Mr.  Silliman  gives  the  following  analysis :  half  a  gal- 
Ion  contains  320  grains  of  salt,  26  lime  and  magnesia, 
with  a  slight  trace  of  iron. 

The  Flat  Rock  Spring 

is  near  the  upper  end  of  the  street,  and  in  the  rear  of  the 
Pavilion*  In  composition  and  qualities  it  bears  a  resem- 
blance to  the  La  Fayette  Spring  at  BaUetonf  but  is  far  infe- 
rior* It  i9  a  chalybeate  water,  and  the  best  of  the  kind 
in  the  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  margin  of  the  little 
valley  in  which  all  the  springs  are  found,  and  the  Pavilion 
will  prove  a  pleasant  house  to  invalids  and  others  who  wish 
to  drink  of  it  frequently. 

The  Round  Rock  Spring, 

This  Spring  is  worthy  of  a  visit  merely  as  a  natural  cu- 
riosity: the  water,  although  for  a  time  much  celebrated, 
and  indeed  the  only  attraction  of  which  Saratoga  could 
boast,  having  gone  into  disrepute,  since  the  discovery  of 
the  sources  already  mentioned.  It  is  a  feeble  chalybeate 
with  little  taste  and  little  effect.  The  water  rises  in  a 
small  lime-stone  rock  of  a  conical  form,  with  a  circular 
hole  in  the  middle,  about  five  inches  in  diameter.  The 
rock  is  about  five  feet  through  at  the  base,  and  has  evi- 
dently been  produced  by  the  layers  of  lime  deposited  by 
the  water.  Many  of  the  rocks  in  the  neighbourhood  con- 
tain a  laige  quantity  of  limci  where  the  carbonic  acid  of 
the  water  probably  obtains  the  supply  which  it  afterwards 
deposites  here.  The  gradual  accretion  which  is  thus  con- 
stantly going  on  is  very  apparent  even  to  a  hasty  observer. 
That  part  of  the  rock  which  is  most  exposed  to  the  drip- 
ping of  water  taken  out  in  cups  through  the  hole  in  the 
top,  is  always  smooth  and  even,  while  other  parts  are 
rough  and  broken.  Fractures  made  by  visiters  ate  some- 
timei>  found  half  obliterated  by  a  recent  coat  of  calcareous 


TRAVELLER. 


151 


matter  formed  in  this  manner.  A  borizontaJ  rock,  appa- 
rently of  similar  formation,  extends  for  a  considerable 
distance  under  the  surface  of  the  ground  ;  and  indeed  it 
might  be  supposed  to  reach  to  some  of  the  springs  which 
rise  in  difleront  places  along  the  valley  above. 

It  is  said  that  the  Round  Rock  was  discovered  to  Sir 
William  Johnson  by  an  Indian,  before  which  time  it  was 
unknown  to  white  men.  The  water,  according  to  com- 
mon report,  formerly  flowed  over  the  top,  but  has  for 
many  years  found  its  way  below,  through  a  crevice  pro- 
duced by  a  large  forest  tree  which  fell  and  cracked  the 
rock. 


SARATOGA  LAKE. 

An  excursion  to  this  beautiful  piece  of  water,  is  one  of 
the  most  agreeable  that  can  be  made  in  any  direction.  It 
is  5}  miles  distant,  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  and  is 
frequently  visited  by  parties  from  Ballston,  as  well  as  Sa- 
ratoga Springs,  as  a  good  house  has  been  lately  erected  on 
the  shore,  and  furnished  with  every  accommodation,  by 
Mr.  Riley.  Sailing  and  fishing  on  the  lake  form  the 
amusements  of  the  excursion* 

The  first  part  of  the  way  is  by  the  eastern  road  to 
Ballston  Spa ;  and  after  turning  to  the  left  and  riding  to 
within  half  a  mile  of  the  lake,  a  fine  view  opens  from  the 
top  of  a  hill.  The  eye  embraces  a  part  of  this  fine  sheet 
of  water,  with  its  sloping  and  verdant  shores,  generally 
divided  by  square  fields ;  with  a  distant  view  of  the  Green 
Mountains. 

At  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  is  erected  a 
stage,  16  by  14  feet,  a  little  raised  above  the  water,  and 
capable  of  containing  thirty  people.  The  lake  is  there 
about  seven  feet  deep,  and  the  spot  is  excellent  for  fishing. 
Parties  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  are  taken  off  in  boats,  and 
in  hot  weather  an  awning  is  spread  to  shade  them  from 
the  sun. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  is  a  remarkable  rocky 
and  woody  hill,  of  a  rounded  form,  which  is  connected 
with  the  shore  only  by  ,a  narrow  neck.  The  deepest 
water  is  two  miles  below,  at  Drowned  Meadow  Cove, 
where  it  is  150  or  170  feet  to  the  bottom.    The  road  run'- 


132 


THE  NORTHERN 


ning  north  from  Riley's  is  pleasant,  but  reaches  only  half 
a  mile. 

The  lake  extends  7  miles  in  length,  and  is  2  in  breadth. 
The  shores  are  bold  and  varied,  gently  descending  with 
a  smooth  slope  to  the  margin,  or  rising  in  rugged  crags 
from  the  water's  edge  ;  sometimes  softened  and  beautified 
by  the  hand  of  cultiva  jon,  and  sometimes  abandoned  to 
all  their  native  wildness. 

If  the  wind  and  weather  are  favourable,  the  visiter  may 
expect  good  sport  in  fishing  ;  and  if  not,  he  may  calculate 
oo  a  dinner  table  well  supplied  by  other  and  more  fortu- 
nate adventurers.  There  are  also  many  kinds  of  wild  fowl, 
birds,  &c.  in  the  neighbourhood,  so  that  a  sportsman  may 
find  great  amusement  here. 

There  is  a  house  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  4  miles 
from  Saratoga  Springs,  kept  by  Mr.  Green,  near  the  ferry, 
"Yvhere  also  visiters  are  accommodated. 


conjee 
Ballst( 
afterw 
superic 
season 
and  mc 
with  vj 
than  it 
heretof 
either  c 
cable,  ii 
true  of 


'"    The  Battle  Ground, 

where  General  Buigoyne  fought  Gen.  Gates  and  the  Ame- 
ricans in  the  autumn  of  1777,  lies  at  the  distance  of  10  or 
12  miles,  towards  the  east,  and  is  described  particularly  at 
page  124  and  onward  :  see  page  154  for 

The  Field  of  Surrender,  and  Gen,  Burgoyne^s  last  Campi 
al  Schui^rsviUe, 

Trout  Fishing. 

Two  miles  eastward  from  the  Springs,  is  a  Trout  Pond, 
to  which  sportsmen  frequently  resort.  Mr.  Barhytet  how- 
ever, who  keeps  the  house,  never  permits  the  fish  to  be 
eaten  any  where  else. 

The  remarks  which  have  been  made  on  the  gaiety  of 
the  two  great  watering  places,  are  intended  to  app!y  only 
when  they  are  the  fashionable  reports  of  those  throngs  of 
visiters  which  every  season  appear  at  one  or  both  of  them. 
The  changes  in  fashion  which  lead  all  the  world  some- 
times to  prefer  one  and  sometimes  the  other,  and  some- 
times to  divide  their  visits  equally  between  them  both,  are 
of  so  unaccountable  a  nature,  that  it  is  impossible  for  any 
one  to  divine  them,  or  with  any  confidence  to  hazard  a 


Tbed( 
place  a  fc 
which  h( 
Gates,  ai 
BatUe  of 
should  b( 
actually  t 
so  fine  a  i 
gained  by 

The  fi( 
well  as  th 
<iays,  the 


TRAVELLER. 


149 


conjecture  far  into  futurity.  Seven  or  eight  years  ago, 
Ballston  was  the  general  rendezvoust ;  but  Saratoga  soon 
afterwards  drained  it  of  its  company,  and  maintained  its 
superiority  in  this  particular  until  near  the  close  of  the 
season  of  1824,  when  Sans  Souci  was  filled  to  an  overflow, 
and  most  of  the  other  houses  at  Ballston  were  crowded 
with  visiters.  In  1825,  the  number  of  visiters  was  greater 
than  it  had  been  for  eight  years.  If  therefore  the  remarks 
heretofore  made,  concerning  the  liveliness  and  gaiety  of 
either  of  these  places,  should  at  any  time  appear  inappli- 
cable, it  may  be  remembered  that  they  have  been  often 
true  of  both,  and  doubtless  will  be  so  again. 

The  Reading  Room. 

Here,  as  well  as  at  Ballston,  a  Reading  Room  is  kept, 
where  strangers  will  find  newspapers  from  different  parts 
of  the  country,  and  where  they  will  be  able  to  supply  them- 
selves with  books  of  different  descriptions,  to  beguile  their 
leisure  hours.  The  Reading  Room  is  at  the  Book  Store, 
a  little  beyond  the  United  States  Hotel. 

^  Record  will  abo  be  found  at  the  same  place,  into 
which  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  visiters  are  copied 
once  a  day,  from  the  books  of  the  four  principal 
houses.  If  any  one  expects  to  meet  a  friend  here,  or 
wishes  to  learn  whether  he  has  already  left  Saratoga,  he 
has  only  to  refer  to  this  list  and  look  for  his  name. 

THE  BATTLE  GROUND. 

The  defeat  of  General  Burgoyne  in  the  year  1777,  took 
place  a  few  miles  east  from  the  Springs.  The  two  battles 
which  he  fought  with  the  American  army  under  General 
Gates,  are  commonly  blended  into  one,  and  called  the 
Battle  of  Saratoga.  To  speak  strictly,  however,  they 
should  bear  the  name  of  Bemis's  Heights^  where  they, 
actually  took  place  ;  though  the  name  of  Saratoga  bears 
so  fine  a  sound,  that  there  seems  on  the  whole  little  to  be 
gained  by  the  change. 

The  field  of  battle  having  been  already  described,  as 
well  as  the  bloodshed  and  the  victories  of  those  important 
days,  the  visiter  is  referred  to  page  124  and  onwards,  for 

02 


\  I 


154 


THK  NOllTHERN 


an  account  which  will  aid  him  in  tracing  out  the  various 
positions  and  sites  with  distinctness  and  interest. 

It  is  proper  to  remark,  however,  that  from  Saratoga  the 
visiter  approaches  the  field  in  a  different  direction  from 
that  assumed  by  the  description  above  alluded  to ;  and 
that  Smith's  Inn,  where  he  stops,  is  the  identical  building 
in  which  Gen.  Burgoyne  had  his  quarters,  and  which  was 
then  known  as  **  Stvords's  House.**  It  was  a  little  in  the 
rear  of  the  British  lines,  as  described  in  Burgoyne*s  his- 
tory of  his  campaign,  and  has  suffered  no  material  altera- 
tion since,  except  by  a  removal  from  its  original  situation. 

After  satisfying  himself  with  an  examination  of  this 
interesting  vicinity,  referring,  as  above  recommended,  to 
the  description  given  some  pages  back,  the  traveller,  if 
going  northward,  will  pass  over  the  route  by  which  Gen. 
Bui^oyne  approached,  and  subsequently  retreated,  imme- 
diately after  the  battle  of  October  7th. 

SCHUYLER'SVILLE,  12  m.  from  Saratoga, 

seven  miles  from  the  battle  ground.  A  stage  coach  leaves 
Saratoga  Springs  three  mornings  in  the  week,  which 
passes  through  this  place.  At  this  village  is  the  place 
where  Gen.  Burgoyne  was  forced  to  stop  on  his  retreat, 
on  account  of  the  flood  in  Fish  Greek,  the  outlet  of  Sara- 
toga Lake ;  and  at  Fort  Hardy,  which  then  stood  on  its 
banks,  he  surrendered  to  Gen.  Gates  on  the  i7th  October. 
The  traces  of  his  camp  are  still  very  discernible,  in  em- 
bankments, ditches,  &c.  and  the  house  in  which  he  had 
his  head  quarters,  stood  till  within  a  fc^v  years. 

Thb  British  Camp, 

one  mile  from  the  Fishkill,  and  opposite  the  Batenkill 
Creek.  From  the  hill  where  the  British  encampment 
was  formed,  a  fine  and  extensive  view  may  be  had,  upon 
the  route  towards  Bemis's  Heights.  General  Burgoyne 
occupied  the  night  of  October  8th  and  the  following 
day  in  getting  to  this  place,  although  it  is  but  7  miles, 
on  account  of  the  miserable  state  of  the  roads.  Here  be 
was  detained  for  several  days  by  the  swelling  of  the  waters 
of  the  creek ;  and  when  he  crossed  the  stream,  he  left 

t  :  .  ■■  "    ^'  "  ^    ^  'j   .■ 


TRAVELLER, 


155 


various 

toga  the 
on  from 
to ;  and 
building 
hich  was 
:le  in  the 
ne's  his- 
al  altera- 
lituation. 
n  of  this 
ended,  to 
aveller,  if 
lich  Gen. 
Bd,  imme- 


oga, 

acb  leaves 
Bk,  which 
the  place 
is  retreat, 
jt  of  Sara- 
tood  on  its 
October, 
e,  in  era- 
ich  he  had 


Batenlcill 
ncampment 
had,  upon 
Burgoyne 
following 
lit  7  miles, 
Here  he 
'  the  waters 
(am,  he  left 


his  hospital,  with  300  sick  and  wounded,  who  were  treat- 
ed by  Gen.  Gates  with  every  attention. 

Here  the  further  retreat  was  cut  off;  for  the  Ameri- 
cans were  found  in  possession  of  the  fords  of  the  Hud- 
son. Gen.  Bui^eyne  therefore  took  his  last  position; 
and  Gen.  Gates  formed  bis  camp  behind,  while  Morgan 
took  post  on  the  v/est  and  north  of  the  British,  and  Gen. 
Fellows,  with  3000  men,  was  stationed  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river.  American  troops  were  also  in  Fort 
Edward,  and  on  the  high  ground  towards  Lake  George. 

The  Surrender. 

While  remaining  in  this  situation,  the  British  were 
continually  exposed  to  the  fire  of  their  enemies,  as  well 
as  reduced  by  want  of  provision.  Six  days  passed  thus ; 
when,  on  the  l7th  of  October,  1777,  a  convention  was 
signed,  and  the  army  being  marched  to  the  meadow  near 
Old  Fort  Hardy,  piled  their  arms  and  surrendered  pri- 
soners of  war,  to  the  number  of  5752  effective,  with  528 
sick  and  wounded.    This  meadow  is  in  sight  from  the  inn. 

.  The  House  of  Gen.  Schuyler 

stood  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  that  of  his  son.  It 
was  burnt  by  Burgoyne  on  his  retreat ;  notwithstanding 
which,  the  British  officers  were  afterwards  received  at 
his  house  in  Albany,  and  treated  with  great  kindness. 

REMARKS  ON  THE  ROUTES. 

North.  Three  great  routes  from  the  Springs  towards 
the  north  may  be  particularized,  although  they  run  almost 
side  by  side,  and  all  unite  on  arriving  at  Lake  Champlain. 
Ist,  The  fashionable  route,  to  Caldwell  on  Lake  George. 
2d,  The  Northern,  or  Champlain  Canal.  3d,  The  road 
to  Whitehall,  the  direct  route  on  the  way  to  Montreal.'*' 


*  There  also  are  two  stage  routes  to  Montreal,  one  on  each 
side  of  Lake  Champlain. 


150 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  first  of  these  is  usually  travelled  by  strangers  of 
taste  and  leisure,  as  it  conducts  directly  to  the  fine  scenery 
of  LaJke  George,  and  the  battle  grounds  in  its  vicinity  ; 
and  passes  near  several  other  spots  of  high  interest  for 
their  historical  associations.  It  is  with  a  particular  view 
to  this  route,  that  the  places  soon  to  be  mentioned  will 
be  arranged  and  described.  Even  if  a  journey  to  Men- 
treal  is  intended,  it  can  hardly  be  too  urgently  pressed 
upon  the  stranger  to  devote  a  leisure  day  or  two  to  Lake 
C^orge  on  his  way,  as  he  will  find  himself  most  amply 
rewarded,  and  can  join  the  great  route  with  facility  at 
Ticonderoga. 

The  second  routes  by  the  Northern  Canal,  may  be  met 
near  the  battle  ground  at  Bemis*s  Heights :  but  it  has 
hitherto  offered  in  this  part  no  boat  expressly  for  passen- 
gers, although  there  is  one  between  Fort  Edward  and 
Whitehall,  which  meets  the  Champlain  steam  boat.  In 
fine  weather,  however,  gentlemen  may  travel  very  plea- 
santly  for  a  few  miles  in  the  common  freight  boats. 

The  third  route  is  the  road  to  Whitehall,  which  is  fur^ 
nished  with  public  carriages  from  the  Springs  during  the 
warm  season,  and,  like  the  canal,  passes  near  some  of 
the  interesting  places  to  be  mentioned  hereafter.  From 
Whitehall  the  traveller  may  proceed  down  Lake  Cham- 
plain  in  the  steam  boat,  or  by  land  in  the  mail  coach. 

East.  Travellers  wishing  to  go  to  any  part  of  the 
country  in  this  direction,  may  take  their  choice  of  several 
routes.  Lines  of  stage  coaches  run  to  Connecticut  Kiver 
from  Burlington,  Middlebury,  Castleton,  and  Granville, 
as  well  as  from  Troy  and  Albany,  in  various  directions— 
to  Hanover,  Brattleborough,  Greenfield,  Northampton, 
Springfield,  Hartford ;  and  there  subdividing  into  nu- 
merous ramifications,  offer  the  means  of  conveyance  to 
every  part  of  New-England.     These   routes  are  more 

Jarticularly  described  under  the  head  of  "  Roads"  in  the 
ndex. 

To  meet  most  of  these  routes,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
proceed  to  some  point  north  or  south  of  the  Springs,  for 
which  public  carriages  are  established  in  several  directions 
from  Saratoga  and  Ballston,  concerning  which,  arrange- 
ments may  be  made  at  the  bar  of  the  house  where  the 
stranger  ia  lodged.  . 


TRAVELLER. 


157 


It  it  also  important  to  mention,  that  two  Mi.  2a  of  coaches 
run  along  the  courses  of  Hudson  River  and  Wood  Creek, 
one  on  each  side ;  and  that  the  eastern  one  carries  the 
mail  through  Gastleton,  Middlebury,  Burlington,  &c. 
along  the  course  of  Lake  Ghamplain,  though  generally  at 
too  great  a  distance  to  command  a  view  of  it.  The  coun- 
try there  is  very  fine,  the  villages  beautiful,  and  the  sur* 
face  frequently  mountainous.  This  road  meets  several  of 
the  eastern  roads ;  but  the  traveller  will  probably  prefer 
to  take  the  steam  boat,  as  he  can  land  at  the  most  im- 
portant points. 

The  most  interesting  route  that  can  be  chosen  by  a  man 
of  taste,  from  the  Springs  to  Boston,  is  through  Vermont 
to  the  White  Mountains,  and  Winnipiseogee  Lake  in  New 
Hampshire.  He  may  take  what  road  he  pleases  to  Con- 
necticut River ;  and  then  proceeding  to  Bath  on  its  east- 
ern shore,  pursue  the  course  of  the  Lower  Ammonoosuc  ^ 
River  along  an  improving  road  to  Ethan  Ji,  Crawford^s 
house  among  the  White  NIountains. 

As  lists  of  places  and  distances  on  the  most  important 
routes  are  given  in  different  parts  of  this  book,  the  tra- 
veller is  once  more  referred  to  the  Index  at  the  end  of  the 
volume,  for  any  further  information  he  may  wish  to  ob- 
tain on  this  subject. 

For  the  roads  leading  South  and  WEST^om  the  Springs, 
he  is  referred  directly  to  Ballston,  where  those  routes  are 
particularly  mentioned  and  described. 

If  he  has  never  visited  the  Battle  Ground  (U  Bemis's 
Heights,  or,  as  it  is  usually  called,  of  Saratoga,  it  may  be 
recommended  to  him  to  take  that  interesting  place  in  his 
way,  and  to  refer  to  page  124  for  the  description  of  it. 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE,  27  miles. 


This  is  by  far  the  most  delightful,  as  well  as  fashionable 
excursion  which  can  be  made  from  the  Springs  in  any  di- 
rection, as  it  abounds  with  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in 
the  United  States,  and  in  numerous  sites  and  objects  in- 
timately connected  with  the  history  of  the  country. 

A  stage  coach  leaves  Saratoga  Springs  every  morning, 


158 


THE  NORTHERN 


for  Caldwell,  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  passing  through 
Glenn's  Falls. 

From  the  time  of  the  earliest  wars  between  the  British 
colonies  and  the  French  in  Canada,  to  th&t  of  1755,  the 
tract  over  which  part  of  our  route  lies  was  the  high  road 
of  war.  It  was  traversed  by  many  a  hostile  expedition,  in 
which  the  splendour  and  power  of  European  arms  mingled 
with  the  fierce  tactics  of  savage  warriors :  the  ruins  of 
fortresses  are  still  to  be  traced  in  several  places,  and 
tradition  points  to  many  a  spot  that  has  been  sprinkled 
with  blood.  During  the  revolution  also,  some  of  the 
important  events  in  our  history  took  place  in  this 
neighbourhood.  The  Battle  of  Saratoga  and  the  defeat 
of  General  Burgoyne  have  been  already  dwelt  upon  ;  but 
we  shall  have  to  refer  more  than  once  to  his  expedition  as 
we  pass  other  scenes  with  which  the  events  of  it  are  cou* 
nected. 

Thejourmy  to  Montred  may  be  made  by  the  way  of  Lake 
George ;  and  this  route  the  book  will  pursue,  to  Montreal 
and  Quebec,  whither  the  reader,  it  is  hoped,  will  accom- 
pany it.  , 

The  Road  from  Saratoga  to  Glenn's  Falls,  18  mUes, 

Wilton,  7  m.  Here  take  the  left  hand  road,  where  a 
poor  house  stands  at  the  angle.  This  will  prove  the  bet- 
ter route,  and  meets  the  other  branch  twice,  at  4  and  6 
miles  distance.  Thirteen  miles  beyond,  the  road  branches 
off  east,  for  Sandy  HUl. 

*  Half  a  mile  before  reaching  the  village,  the  road  enters 
a  rich  plain,  probably  once  overflown  by  the  river,  which 
is  now  discovered  on  the  !eft,  dividing  it  in  its  course, 
while  the  village  appears  in  front,  with  a  handsome  church 
spire,  and  a  number  of  neat  white  houses,  all  backed  by 
the  mountains,  which  here  stretch  off  towards  the  north. 

French  Mountain  is  the  most  prominent  eminence,  of 
which  more  anon.  A  more  distant  range  is  likewise  seen 
further  to  the  right. 


Glenn's  Falls. 


\ 


If  the  traveller  is  going  on  immediately  to  the  lake,  he 
should  stop  a  few  moments  on  the  bridge,  to  see  the  falls 


\i2 


ig  througb 

he  British 

1755,  the 

high  road 

edition,  in 

ns  mingled 

e  ruins  of 

>laces,  and 

1  sprinkled 

ne  of  the 

ce    in  this 

the  defeat 

upon ;  but 

pedition  as 

it  are  con- 

eay  of  Lake 
0  Montreal 
ivill  accom- 


.s,  18  mUes. 

id,  where  a 

)ve  the  bet- 

at  4  and  6 

ad  branches 

road  enters 
river,  which 
its  course, 
ome  church 
1  backed  by 
3  the  north, 
minence,  of 
kewise  seen 


the  lake,  he 
see  the  falls 


•-».•>*•- '4»«»r-»   — 


•  /^ 


;,^.;--t^»  ",-'  ■  '■  -  - 


:^'.  J- 


-     K 


in  the 
here  n 
dark  b 
(orma  t 
ner.    1 
the  wa 
swollen 
the  larj 
deep  eh 
bridge 
serioas 
channel 
A  dai 
supplies 
well  as  I 
canal,  w 
Canal,  b 
water  fo 
Theg 
beyond 
highest  p 
in  high  fl 
gentle  di 
running 
Catei 
the  left, 
north,  in 
been  cuf 
across  thi 


-4*i 


". .-.  i 


/^ff 


■'  ( 


i«. 


\l 


This  VII 
below, 
and  intei 
sufficient 
onward: 
and  wishf 
render^  ol 
Baliston,  f 
the  river.l 

For  a 
liidex. 


TRAVfiLLEK. 


159 


in  the  Hudson,  which  are  in  full  view  below.  The  river 
here  makes  a  sudden  descent  of  37  feet,  over  a  rock  of 
dark  blue  lime-stoue,  which  has  been  worn  into  so  many 
forms  as  to  break  up  the  current  in  a  very  singular  man- 
ner. The  projection  of  two  large  masses  of  rock,  divides 
the  water  into  three  sheets,  (except  when  it  is  much 
swollen  by  floods.)  Of  these,  the  northern  one  is  much 
the  largest,  and  the  other  two  unite  and  pass  through  a 
deep  channel,  about  15  feet  wide.  A  man  jumped  off  the 
bridge  here,  twice,  a  few  years  ago,  yet  escaped  without 
serioas  injury.  The  most  water  passes  through  the  other 
channel.'" 

A  dam  is  thrown  across  just  above  the  falls,  which 
supplies  a  Cotton  Manufactory  of  Stone  with  water,  as 
well  as  several  mills.  On  the  north  side  of  the  river  is  a 
canal,  which  was  intended  for  a  feeder  to  the  Champlain 
Canal,  but  has  never  been  finished.  It  now  furnishes 
water  for  several  mills,  and  an  artificial  cascade. 

The  great  flat  rock  which  supports  the  bridge,  projects 
beyond  it,  and  affords  space  for  a  small  garden  on  its 
highest  part,  although  the  greater  part  of  it  is  overflown 
in  high  floods.  Like  the  other  rocky  strata  there,  it  has  a 
gentle  dip  towards  the  south,  and  a  perpendicular  fracture 
running  nearly  north  and  south. 

Caverns.— Passing  through  the  garden,  and  turning  to 
the  left,  the  mouths  of  two  caverns  are  found  facing  the 
north,  in  different  places  among  the  rocks.  They  have 
been  cut  through  by  the  rushing  of  water,  in  a  direction 
across  the  river's  course,  and  corresponding  with  the  natu* 


*  Sandt  Hill,  3  miles  eastward. 

This  village  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  next  fall  in  the  river 
below.  The  cascade  is  less  remarkable  as  an  object  of  curiosity 
and  interest,  but  is  still  worthy  of  attention  if  the  stanger  have 
safficient  time  at  his  disposal.  He  will  find  a  pleasant  road 
onward :  and  if  he  should  be  on  his  return  from  Lake  Geoi^e, 
and  wishes  to  visit  this  part  of  the  river,  the  Field  of  Sur- 
render,  or  the  Battle  Ground,  before  reaching  Saratoga  or 
Ballston,  he  will  find  it  convenient  to  follow  me  course  of 
the  river.    The  village  has>  a  good  inn. 

For  a  description  of  the  principal  scenes  of  this  route,  see 
liidex. 


160 


THE  NORTHERN 


ral  fracture.  The  first  is  just  large  enough  to  permit  the 
passage  of  a  man,  and  is  cut  with  surprising  regularity 
for  a  distance  of  about  25  feet.  This  place  is  made  the 
scene  of  some  of  the  most  interesting  chapters  of  Mr. 
Cooper's  late  novel  of  the  La$t  of  the  Mohicant.  Tbe 
carern  (perhaps  altered  sin«e  1757,)  iras  the  place  where 
the  wanderers  secreted  themselves,  and  were  made  cap. 
tives.  The  cavern  conducts  to  one  of  the  river's  channels, 
where  it  opens  on  the  side  of  a  precipice,  directly  over 
the  water.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  perpendicular 
rocks  as  far  as  they  can  be  seen ;  and  nearly  opposite  the 
caverns,  under  the  north  bank,  is  an  abundant  spring  of 
fine,  pure  water,  which  pours  from  a  hole  in  the  rock,  a 
few  feet  from  the  surface  of  the  river. 

To  the  disciples  of  Dr.  Kitchener,  we  will  notice,  that  at 
Glenn's  Fall,  their  taste  for  excellent  cheer  may  be  grati- 
fied to  the  greatest  extent,  at  the  mn  of  Messrs.  Freehouse 
and  Thurston.  The  former  having  acquired  his  proficiency 
in  cooking  from  a  French  artist,  their  dishes  are  prepared 
in  the  best  possible  manner,  and  in  a  variety  that  will  not 
fail  to  please — "'tis  their  vocation." 

About  half-way  between  this  place  and  Sandy  Hill,  a 
convoy  of  wagons  was  attacked  in  the  French  war,  on 
their  way  to  Lake  George. 

Nearly  north  of  Glenn's  Falls,  is  Luzerne  Mountain ; 
and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it,  French  Mountain.  Between 
them  passes  the  road  to  Lake  Geoi^e.  Towards  the  west, 
a  range  of  high  hills  encloses  the  view,  and  in  the  east, 
the  Vermont  Mountains  make  a  fine  appearance. 

Near  the  foot  of  French  Mountain  is  a  small  tavern,  on 
the  east  side  of  the  road  ;  and  near  this  place  Gen. 
Dieskau's  advanced  guard  struck  the  route  from  Glenn's 
Falls  and  Fort  Edward  to  Fort  William  Henry.  The 
valley  through  which  we  pass  is  narrow  for  some  distance 
beyond  ;  and  after  about  half  an  hour's  ride,  (for  there 
are  no  mile  stones,)  a  little  circular  pond  is  discovered  on 
the  east  side,  and  close  by  the  road.  It  is  generally 
almost  concealed  with  water  plants. 

This  was  near  the  place  of  action  between  Col.  Wil- 
liams and  Gen.  Dieskau.  The  latter  had  extended  his 
troops  across  the  path,  and  advanced  his  wings  some  dis- 
tance in  front,  the  left  wing  occupying  the  rising  groun'^ 


permit  the 
regularity 
made  the 
iTB  of  Mr. 
ant.  The 
ftce  where 
made  cap. 
I  channel.<), 
pectly  over 
pendicular 
pposite  the 
t  spring  of 
he  rock,  a 

ice,  that  at 
f  be  grati- 
Freehouse 
proficiency 
e  prepared 
lat  will  not 


^ 


idy  Hill,  a 
ih  war,  on 

Mountain ; 
Between 
Is  the  west, 
n  the  east, 
;e. 

tavern,  on 
?lace  Gen. 
om  Glenn's 
inry.  The 
ne  distance 

(for  there 
[covered  on 
i  generally 

,  Col.  Wil- 
itended  bis 
s  some  dis- 
sing  ground! 


:m^ 


on  ^h^ 


.•:rn« 


'"  fl 


^:.-mi. 


of 


TKAVELLER. 


lUI 


on  *h9  weit  side  of  the  road  ooar  tbia  place.    A  small 

1    '  *•--  — Srip.;/*^  «  little  be- 

•^e  ',»r*ri: ., c   ■  r 

r-  ,>oiitte()  out  k>^ 

•*  tra»e.    This,  ho^rcfar,  la  ciHufde'^ 
nthtris,  it  is  saM  that  hfe  » 
■^^  attci  vra;y  Hbot  It'om  t(»  iiuni'  .  i 

•   pond  above  moniiutiorl  nrji 
»,.  «^enj  wfrre  thrown,  and  ft  Ih^m-x   ij|«  mubc  <»f 
irf  to  thfs  day.     Jt  is  pirtfajilMy   murh  iimaller 
•'^      In  182;),  ibe  <»ke!etoi;  oK"  *  man  n'\«  ^n-^ 
.<  ;uU  uf  H  Leet,  noar  fhft  pgtjd,  %»«(!:  a  niurble 
.t*<l   »om8;«iilv^eyc(l   buUona  l>©ar««»i(r  tlj<^ 


TOf<»J 


■Tl 


a 


W 


wt  4  Am' 


4i 


.'flWt^TS^ 


'  {{;  to  tii»  L'i'aw  oi  y.  iu^ii  iiili,  the  prospect  opeus^ 

lake  aj)y)car«,  f  nclosad  by  mouotaiii*-,  manj  of 

at  tiiis  JistanCe,  m'c  cf  a  t]f*;p  blue.     The  evU  ni 

MotfMlJiui  i?»  uear  »t  hand  on  th^^  e^sl,  cuvereu 

■,  the   be;   ••     '    •  '    '        .  -,  r 

of  be.aui>4.r»4  jr4i:^,stMtf4». 

',  ar<    tljf.   r*;m«i(jfi   oil'  * 
■&i«ous  ia  Uie  bi«tory  < 
ef  the  ibrnnii?  waa 


I'jMg  »«$ti«;fi(*rs  or' 


:^fi. 


'  •viliagij  yf  OaldweW  i\>  ti.t  p**fr  '-H  wikh  the  visUei' 

•  to  take  a  viow  <tf  this  f  *  i;c:,  and  (y^.r^^ 

^  ii©  ^v»U  rnako  bb'fXvi-vsJx.B  ..  ..oa^T  if»  besu'iiisi 

-^m*    The  viiiiiife  sUnda  ».i  n!»«.  ^^iitli  tind  of  ib*> 


•-ig*-' 


MSVMT  '  ."  ■  T^.. 


ft ' 


% 


on  the  1 
cleared 
yond  the 
to  have  I 
rock  nei 
Col.  Wil 
doubtful 
toreconi 

The  li 
most  of 
Bloody  i 
than  fori 
up  from ; 
pipe,  an 
stamp,  r 
their  seat 
lurid  pett 

About : 
view  of 


*■■  ,.• 


Comin 
and  the 
whichf  a 
French  A 
with  thic 
the  lake, 
white  bu 
degree  or 
in  any  ol 
George, 
Henry,  i 
the  site  I 
when  he 
the  actic 


ThevI 
will  stof 
which  hj 
waters. 


TRAVELLER. 


161 


on  the  west  side  of  the  road  near  this  place.  A  small 
cleared  spot  may  be  noticed  on  the  other  side,  a  little  be- 
yond the  pond,  (in  1825,  a  hut  stood  upon  it,)  that  is  said 
to  have  been  the  principal  scene  of  action  ;  and  a  singular 
rock  near  by  is  pointed  out  by  tradition  as  the  mark  of 
Col.  Williams's  grave.  This,  however,  is  considered  very 
doubtful ;  by  others,  it  is  said  that  he  ascended  the  rock 
to  reconnoitre,  and  was  shot  from  its  summit.  {Page  166.) 

The  little  pond  above  mentioned  was  the  place  where 
most  of  the  dead  were  thrown,  and  it  bears  the  name  of 
Bloody  Pond  to  this  day.  It  is  probably  much  smaller 
than  formerly.  In  1825,  the  skeleton  of  a  man  was  dug 
up  from  a  depth  of  1^  feet,  near  the  pond,  with  a  marble 
pipe,  and  some  silver«eyed  buttons  bearing  the  royal 
stamp.  This  pond  is  nearly  circular,  and  is  covered,  in 
their  season,  with  the  Pond  Lily,  (Nymphefi  Alba,)  their 
lurid  petals  shedding  baleful  influence  upon  the  water. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this  place,  is  a  fine 
view  of 


LAKE  GEORGE. 

Coming  to  the  brow  of  a  high  hill,  the  prospect  opens, 
and  the  lake  appears,  enclosed  by  mountains,  many  of 
which,  at  this  distance,  are  of  a  deep  blue.  The  side  of 
French  Mountain  is  near  at  hand  on  the  east,  covered 
with  thick  trees  to  the  summit ;  while  the  smoothness  of 
the  lake,  the  beauty  of  its  nearest  shore,  with  the  neat 
white  buildings  of  Caldwell,  communicate  to  the  scene  a 
degree  of  beauty  and  seclusion,  which  can  hardly  be  found 
in  any  other  spot.  Directly  at  the  south  end  of  Lake 
George,  are  the  remains  of  Forts  George  and  William 
Henry,  famous  in  the  history  of  the  French  war ;  and  on 
the  site  of  the  former  was  General  Johnson's  camp, 
when  he  was  attacked  by  Dieskau.  The  particulars  of 
the  action  will  be  given  hereafter, 

Caldwell. 

The  village  of  Caldwell  is  the  place  at  which  the  visiter 
will  stop  to  take  a  view  of  this  charming  lake,  and  from 
which  he  will  make  his  excursions  across  its  beautiful 
waters.    The  village  stands  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake, 

P 


102 


THE  NORTHERN 


and  on  its  shore,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  neigh-* 
bouring  sheet  of  water  and  the  mountains  by  which  it  is 
almost  enclosed.  The  inn  to  which  strangers  resort  oc- 
cupies a  spot  peculiarly  fitted  to  gratify  the  eye  of  taste, 
as  it  overlooks  the  lake  for  several  miles,  and  the  view  is 
not  interrupted  by  any  neighbouring  obstacle.  A  more 
delightful  place  can  hardly  be  found  in  the  United  States, 
for  the  temporary  residence  of  one  who  takes  delight  in 
scenery  of  this  description,  and  loves  to  recur  to  deeds 
long  past,  and  to  exploits  great  in  themselves  and  im* 
portant  in  their  results,  even  to  the  present  day. 

Lake  George  is  34  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth 
4.  At  the  south  end  it  is  only  about  one  mile  broad. 
The  greatest  depth  is  60  fathoms.  The  water  is  remark- 
able for  its  purity — a  fish  or  a  stone  may  be  seen  at  the 
depth  of  20  or  30  feet.  It  is  undoubtedly  supplied  by 
springs  from  below,  as  the  water  is  coldest  near  the  bot- 
tom. It  contains  trout,  bass,  and  perch.  There  are  deer 
in  the  neighbouring  forest.  The  outlet  which  leads  to 
Lake  Champlain  contains  three  large  falls  and  rapids. 
The  lake  never  rises  more  than  two  feet. 

The  three  best  points  of  view  are  at  Fort  George,  a 
place  north  of  Shelving  Rock,  14  miles,  and  another  at 
Sabbath  Day  Point,  21  miles  from  the  head  of  the  lake. 
The  la^t  view  is  taken  southward,  the  other  two  north- 
ivard. 

'  This  beautiful  basin  with  its  pure  crystal  water,  is  bound- 
ed by  two  ranges  of  mountains,  which  in  some  places 
rising  with  a  bold  and  hasty  ascent  from  the  water,  and 
in  others  descending  with  a  graceful  sweep  from  a  great 
height  to  a  broad  and  level  margin,  furnish  it  with  a 
charming  variety  of  scenery,  which  every  change  of 
weather,  as  well  as  every  change  of  position,  presents  in 
new  and  countless  beauties.  The  intermixture  of  culti- 
vation with  the  wild  scenes  of  nature  is  extremely  agree- 
able ;  and  the  undulating  surface  of  the  well  tilled  farm 
is  often  contrasted  with  the  deep  shade  of  the  native  fo- 
rest, and  the  naked,  weather-beaten  cliffs,  where  no  ve- 
getation can  dwell. 

The  situation  of  the  Hotel  is  delightful,  surpassing  that 
of  almost  every  other  to  be  found  in  this  part  of  the 
country.    The  traveller  may  hereafter  take  pleasure  in 


TRAVELLER. 


163 


b  neigh-* 
ich  it  is 
isort  oc* 
sf  taste, 
}  view  is 
A  more 
1  States, 
lelight  in 
to  deeds 
and  im* 

t  breadth 
le  broad. 
I  remark- 
Bn  at  the 
pplied  by 
ir  the  bot- 
>e  are  deer 
i  leads  to 
nd  rapids. 

1  George,  a 
another  at 

the  lake. 

wo  north* 

kisbound- 
me  places 
rater,  and 
im  a  great 
I  it  with  a 
[change  of 
tresents  in 
fe  of  cuUi- 
lely  agree- 
lilled  farm 
native  fo- 
jre  nove- 

issing  that 
)art  of  the 
)leasurc  in 


comparing  the  scene  enjoyed  from  his  window,  with  those 
he  may  witness  from  the  walls  oi  Quebec,  Masonic 
Hall  at  Montreal,  and  Forsyth's  at  Niagara.  The  house 
is  very  large,  having  been  increased  within  a  year  or  two 
by  the  addition  of  a  long  wing,  three  stories  high,  so  that 
it  is  now  capable  of  furnishing  lodgings  for  100  persons, 
and  the  apartments  are  so  arranged  that  half  of  them 
look  out  upon  the  lake.  A  green  and  handsome  slope 
descends  about  20U  yards  to  the  very  margin,  where 
there  is  no  obi^truction  but  a  few  trees  and  scattering 
buildings.  There  is  the  wharf,  at  which  the  steam  boat 
Mountaineer  receives  and  landa  her  passengers,  often  add- 
ing much  variety  to  the  place  by  an  addition  of  company. 
The  discharge  of  the  signal  gun  makes  fine  echoes  among 
the  mountains  in  a  clear  night. 

The  lake  is  here  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide, 
and  the  range  of  mountains  opposite,  which  are  high  and 
uninterrupted,  are  quite  uncultivated  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  farms  near  the  shore ;  the  other  parts  being 
covered  with  trees  almost  to  the  water. 

On  the  right  is  seen  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  which 
is  formed  of  low  land  for  some  distance  back,  succeeded 
by  French  Mountain  in  the  rear.  On  a  little  point,  half 
covered  with  trees,  and  rising  only  about  25  feet  above 
the  water,  is  the  site  of  Fort  William  Henry  ;  and  about 
a  mile  towards  the  south-east  from  it,  on  a  considerable 
elevation,  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  George.  For  the  history 
of  these  once  important  little  fortresses,  see  a  little  farther 


on. 


Excursions  on  the  Lake,  Fishino,  &c. 


I 


Boats  are  kept  at  the  wharf  to  convey  strangers  to  any 
part  of  the  neighbouring  shores  and  islands.  Fine  perch, 
or  black  bass,  (Perca  Frantdiniay)  are  caught  in  abun- 
dance almost  every  where;  and  trout,  at  the  mouth  of  a 
small  stream  near  the  south  end.  Fishing  rods  and  tackle 
may  be  obtained  at  the  hotel ;  and  a  variety  of  other  fish 
are  to  be  found. 

Diamond  Island  is  ,a  few  miles  down  the  lake,  and 
is  famous  for  abounding  in  crystals  of  quartz,  which  are 
found  in  a  loose  rock  by  dicing  a  little  under  the  surface. 


164 


THE  NORTHERN 


They  are  found,  however,  in  equal  numbers  in  several  of 
the  other  islands  ;  and  it  is,  after  all,  the  easier  way  to 
purchftse  them,  and  not  to  permit  the  labour  of  searching 
for  them  to  interfere  with  the  pleasure  of  the  exrursion^ 
particularly  as  that  labour  is  often  ineffectual.  A  poor 
family  live  on  Diamond  Island,  subsisting  partly  on  a  small 
•pot  of  tilled  land,  and  partly  on  the  produce  of  the  crys- 
tals they  sell  to  visitrrs. 

Tea  Island,  about  2  miles  down  the  lake,  is  another 
favourite  retreat.  The  little  bay  in  which  the  boai,s  land 
is  remarkably  retired  and  beautiful,  and  there  is  an  old 
hut  standing  which  affords  something  of  a  shelter* 

Long  Island  contains  about  100  acres,  and  has  been 
inhabited  and  cultivated.  Beside  these,  there  are  many 
other  islands  on  the  neighbouring  parts  of  the  lake ;  and 
those  who  are  fond  of  such  excursions,  would  be  highly 
delighted  with  devoting  several  days  to  visiting  them. 
The  finest  cluster  is  in  the  Narrows,  about  12  miles  dis- 
tant.   These  will  be  spoken  of  hereafter. 

The  steam  boat  usually  goes  three  times  a  week  to  the 
north  end  of  the  lake ;  but  is  always  ready  to  perform 
that  excursion,  and  will  take  a  party  of  20  or  more  for 
$1  each. 

West  of  the  village  is  a  remarkable  conical  eminence, 
called  Rattlesnakes^  Cohhle,  or  Prospect  HiU.  This,  as 
well  as  the  mountains  beyond  it,  is  the  habitation  of  bears 
and  deer,  and  much  infested  with  rattle  snakes.  The  view 
from  the  top  is  very  fine.  It  in  the  place  from  which 
Hawk-eye,  in  the  **  Last  of  the  Mohicans,**  leads  his  com- 
panions into  fort  William  Henry  through  the  mist. 

The  French  Approaches.  The  village  of  Caldwell 
is  of  recent  date.  In  the  French  war,  during  the  siege 
of  fori  William  Henry,  the  ground  which  it  now  occupies 
was  crossed  by  the  trenches  and  batteries  with  which 
Montcalm  finally  succeeded  in  forcing  the  capitulation  of 
that  little  fortress. 

The  place  where  he  landed  with  his  army  is  the  little 
cove  just  behind  the  new  stone  building,  a  few  steps  north 
of  the  hotel.  He  erected  his  battery  near  the  shore,  and 
ran  his  first  trench  across  the  street  into  the  fields  in  front 
of  the  hotel.  The  remains  may  still  be  traced,  as  well  as 
the  marks  of  a  small  mortar  battery,  near  the  bars  of  a 


ilence 
bank 
also  j 
right, 
Behin 
Frenc 


djginthe 
ftntiquitiei 


TRAVELLER. 


165 


iTeral  of 
"way  to 
sarching 
Lcursion, 
A  poor 
n  a  small 
the  cry8- 

}  another 
oats  land 
is  an  old 
er. 

has  heen 
are  many 
ake;  and 
be  highly 
ing  them, 
miles  dis- 

eek  to  the 
to  perform 
ir  more  for 


ftnee  leading  to  Pikers*  house.  Another  line  runs  to  the 
bank  of  the  lake,  on  this  side  of  the  brook,  where  was 
also  a  battery ;  and  another  borders  the  swamp  to  the 
right,  and  another  turns  southward  along  the  high  ground. 
Behind  this,  in  a  pine  wood,  are  the  graves  of  about  lOCO 
French  soldiers,  who  died  in  the  fort. 

Battle  of  Lake  George. 

In  1755,  the  year  after  the  commencement  of  the 
French  War,  3000  men  were  sent  out  from  France  to 
Quebec,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  the  Oswego  Fort.  This 
was  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego  or  Onondago 
River,  and  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario.  The  position 
derived  its  consequence  from  circumstances  which  no 
longer  exist :  the  Indian  trade  from  up  the  Lakes,  the 
facility  of  communication  with  the  Five  Nations  through 
this  place,  and  the  peculiar  nature  of  the  shores  of  Lake 
Ontario,  which  would  not  permit  canoe  navigation  on  the 
other  side.  There  the  two  great  branches  of  Indian 
trade  concentrated  ;  and  the  nation  which  held  possession 
of  the  point  must  necessarily  sway  a  great  influence  over 
the  Indians  themselves :  an  advantage  frequently  of  still 
greater  importance  to  the  country.  Oswego  Fort  natu- 
rally became  an  object  to  both  the  French  and  the  English 
at  that  time,  and  it  formed  a  prominent  figure  in  the  history 
of  the  war.  The  English  being  in  possession  of  that  little 
fortress  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities,  its  defence 
might  doubtless  have  been  easily  secured,  had  their  ope- 
rations been  conducted  with  common  prudence  and  energy. 
Unfortunately  they  were  conducted  in  a  very  different 
manner ;  and  whoever  would  see  a  clear  and  able  history 
of  the  first  English  expeditions  in  that  war,  and  of  the 
political  party  spirit  which  then  ruled  in  this  country  and 
rendered  them  worse  than  ineffectual,  is  referred  to  "  A 
Letter  to  a  Lord^''  written  soon  after. 

In  1755    Gen.    Johnson,    (afterwards   Sir  William,) 

*  This  man,  who  is  infirm,  has  leave  from  Mr.  Caldwell  to 
dig  in  the  ruins  of  the  fort,  and  keeps  a  quantity  of  interesting 
antiquities  for  sale. 

P2 


166 


THE  NORTHERN 


marched  to  the  south  end  of  Lake  George  with  a  consi- 
derable number  of  men,  joined  by  the  famous  Capt.  Hen- 
drick,  with  many  Indians  of  the  Five  Nations,  intending 
to  take  Fort  Frederick,  now  Grown  Point.  Gen.  Dieskau 
was  sent  to  oppose  him,  with  3000  men,  principally  taken 
from  a  body  of  French  troops  sent  out  to  Quebec,  600  of 
whom  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  Admiral  Boscawen  at 
sea.  Dieskau  had  first  designed  to  besiege  Fort  Oswego. 
At  Fort  Frederick  or  Crown  Point,  he  remained  some 
time,  and  then  determined  to  go  and  meet  the  English. 
He  therefore  went  up  the  South  Bay,  where  learning  the 
situation  of  Fort  Lyman,  (now  Fort  Edward,)  he  wished 
to  attack  it  and  cut  off  the  retreat  of  Gen.  Johnson.  The 
Indians  and  Canadians,  however,  were  in  dread  of  the 
cannon  with  which  it  was  supposed  to  be  defended,  and  he 
was  obliged  to  march  against  Johnson. 

Sunday,  Sept.  7tb,  at  midnight,  a  scout  brought  John- 
son intelligence  that  Dieskau  was  coming.  1200  men 
were  sent  out  in  the  morning,  under  the  command  of  Col. 
Ephraim  Williams,  who  met  them  at  Rocky  Brook,  drawn 
up  in  a  semicircle,  into  which  the  English  entered  before 
they  knew  it.  A  heavy  fire  from  three  sides  first  showed 
them  the  position  of  their  enemies.  The  English  stood 
their  ground  valiantly  ;  but  Col.  Williams  and  Hendrick 
being  both  shot  down,  together  with  many  others,  they 
were  obliged  to  begin  their  retreat,  which  was  conducted 
by  Col.  Whiting  with  the  greatest  coolness  and  success. 

The  centre  of  the  English  army  was  posted  on  the  hill 
where  the  ruins  of  Fort  George  now  are ;  and  the  French 
were  discovered  by  them  at  half  past  11.  Dieskau  halted 
at  the  sight  of  his  enemies,  probably  entertaining  some 
mistaken  idea  of  the  strength  of  their  position,  and  gave 
them  time  to  recover  from  their  panic.  The  ground  on 
both  sides  of  the  English  camp  was  marshy  and  covered 
with  trees,  and  Dieskau  sent  his  Indians  out  on  the  right 
flank  and  the  Canadians  on  the  left  to  surround  them. 
Col.  Pomeroy,  however,  soon  put  the  former  to  flight  nrith 
a  few  cannon  shots.  Dieskau  then  brought  up  his  troops 
in  front,  and  made  them  fire  by  platoons,  wktLi  veryi  littie 
effect.  Gen.  Johnson  (happily  for  his  own  troops,)  was 
slightly  wounded  in  the  thigh,  and  had  tu  walk  back  to 
his  tent,  leaving  the  command  with  Gen.  Lyman.    He 


VBAVELLER. 


W 


directed  tbe  defence  for  five  hours,  aided  by  Capt.  Eyre*s 
artillery ;  when  the  French  turned  upon  the  English  right, 
which  consisted  of  Ruggles*8,  Pomeroy's  and  Tittlecomb's 
regiments,  and  extended  from  the  road  to  where  Fort 
Wm.  Henry  was  afterwards  built*  Here  they  fought  an 
hour,  but  the  English  and  Indians  chaining  them,  they 
took  to  flight  and  many  were  killed.  Gen.  Dieskau  him- 
self was  found  leaning  against  a  stump  wounded — a  sol- 
dier approaching  saw  him  put  his  hand  to  his  waist,  to 
take  out ,his  watch,  which  he  intended  to  offer  to  him,  and 
supposing  he  was  dranring  a  pistol,  shot  him  through  the 
thigh.  He  was  carried  to  the  fort  by  eight  men  in  a 
blanket,  and  it  is  said  deterred  Johnson  from  ordering  a 
pursuit,  by  saying  he  had  a  strong  force  near  at  hand. 
Gen.  Lyman  urged  to  follow  up  their  victory ;  but  that 
was  probably  a  sufficient  reason  for  its  being  refused  by  a 
superior  officer,  who  looked  upon  his  great  talents  with 
jealousy,  and,  in  spite  of  the  advantage  the  country  had 
derived  from  his  services,  at  a  time  when  they  were  pe- 
culiarly valuable,  did  not  even  mention  the  name  of  Gren. 
Lyman  in  his  account  of  the  battle ! — Johnson  ir/as  made 
a  Baronet,  and  Lyman  lingered  out  a  few  years  in  poverty 
and  disappointment,  and  died  without  receiving  even  the 
notice  of  the  British  government. 

The  English  are  said  to  have  lost  only  216  in  killed  and 
96  wounded.  Gen.  Dieskau  estimated  his  own  loss  at 
1000 — the  English  called  it  much  lejs.  The  principal 
were  a  Miy.  General,  and  M.  de  St.  Pierre  the  command- 
er  of  the  Indians.  The  French  lost  their  baggage  during 
the  action,  left  two  miles  in  their  rear,  it  being  attacked 
by  Captains  Folsom  and  McGinnies  with  about  100  New- 
York  troops ;  who  then  lay  in  wait  for  the  retreating 
French,  and  killed  great  numbers  of  them. 

Gen.  Johnson  might  have  taken  Crown  Point;  but  he 
delayed  it  so  long,  that  the  French  advanced  to  Ticonde- 
roga  and  there  fortified  themselves  securely. 

But  the  Battle  of  Lake  Geoige  is  not  the  only  nor  the 
most  sanguinary  scene  of  former  times  which  the  traveller 
has  to  trace  on  this  sadly  interesting  spot.  The  history 
of  the  French  war  recites  a  melancholy  tale  of  blood-shed 
here,  only  two  years  afterwards,  in  1757. 


168 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  Capture  and  Massacre  of  Fort  William  Henry. 


So  different  was  the  state  of  the  country  sixty  years 
ago,  and  so  much  in  its  infancy  was  the  art  of  war  in  these 
wild  regions,  that  a  sinall  work  of  earth  thrown  up  on 
this  site,  and  called  Fort  William  Henry,  was  regarded  as 
a  fortress  of  considerable  strength  and  consequence.  It 
is  indeed  far  overlooked  by  the  neighl.>ouring  high  ground, 
but  probably  the  difficulty  of  dragging  cannon  over  rucks 
and  bills,  covered  with  forests,  was  then  considered  a  suf- 
ficient obstacle  to  its  performance,  and  probably  for  this 
reason  Oswego  Fort  was  built  in  a  similar  situation,  and 
left  so  till  taken  by  the  French. 

In  1757,  the  Earl  of  Loudon,  British  Commander  in 
Chief  in  America,  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  by  sea 
against  Louisburgb ;  and  before  his  return  to  New- York 
in  August,  the  French  from  Ticonderoga  under  the  Mar* 
quis  de  Montcalm,  had  made  three  attacks  on  Fort  Wil* 
liam  Henry.  On  the  1st  of  August  they  set  out  again, 
and  landed  at  Frenchman's  Point.  On  the  evening  of  the 
2d,  they  crossed  to  the  west  side  of  Lake  George,  within 
two  miles  of  the  fort,  and  the  next  morning  sent  in  their 
summons.  Cul.  Monroe  defended  himself  resolutely  for 
six  days,  hoping  relief  from  Col.  Webb  and  his  6000  men 
at  Fort  Edward ;  but  having  waited  in  vain,  and  burst  ten 
of  his  largest  cannon,  he  was  obliged  to  surrender,  and 
marched  out  with  the  honours  of  war  and  an  assurance 
of  being  protected  from  the  Indians  in  Montcalm's  army. 

He  had  gone  but  a  little  way,  however,  when  the  sa* 
vages  fell  upon  his  troops  and  butchered  about  1500,  men, 
women,  and  children. 

Gen.  Webb's  conduct  was  most  inhuman.  The  provin- 
cial troops  were  kept  under  arms  for  one  whole  day  after 
the  news  of  the  siege  arrived  at  Fort  Edward,  and  Sir 
William  Johnson  was  very  desirous  to  march  with  them 
to  its  relief;  but  Webb  ordered  them  back  to  their  quar- 
ters, and  sent  a  messenger  to  Col.  Monroe  advising  him 
to  surrender. 


TRAVELLER. 


169 


Attack  on  Fort  Ticonderoga. 

The  south  end  of  Lake  George  was  the  scene  of  a 
splendid  embarkation  on  the  4th  of  July  of  the  following 
yenr,  [1758,]  when  1U,000  provincial  troops,  and  6  or 
7000  regulars  assembled  at  this  place  tu  proceed  against 
Ticonderoga. *  1035  boats  were  drawn  up  to  the  shore 
one  clear  delightful  »ummer  morning,  and  were  speedily 
filled  with  this  powerful  army,  excepting  only  a  small  body 
left  with  the  baggage.  Success  was  confidently  expected, 
and  the  appearance  of  the  train  was  more  like  that  of  a 
triumphant  return  from  war.  The  boats  were  decorated 
with  gaudy  streamers,  and  the  oars  moved  to  martial 
music. 

The  traveller  will  follow  their  route  in  the  steam  boat, 
for  which  see  beyond 

They  landed  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake  on  the  follow- 
ing  morning,  and  were  ordered  to  march  on  in  four  co- 
lumns. The  obstructions  of  the  forest,  however,  soon 
broke  their  ranks ;  when  Lord  Howe  with  hu  centre  co- 
lumn falling  in  with  the  enemy's  advance  guard,  who  were 
on  their  retreat  and  bewildered,  was  attacked  with  a  sud- 
den war  whoop  and  immediately  killed.  The  provinciaU 
were  accustomed  to  the  woods,  and  drove  back  their  ene- 
mies, killing  about  300,  and  taking  148  prisoners,  and  all 
returned  to  the  landing.  In  the  morning.  Col.  Bradstreet 
took  possession  of  the  mill  at  the  great  falls  on  the  river, 
and  the  army  were  soon  brought  up  to  the  French  lines, 
which  were  thrown  up  across  the  isthmus  and  not  finish- 
ed. This  entrenchment  is  still  to  be  seen  in  tolerable 
preservation.  It  had  two  redoubts,  and  a  deep  abattis, 
and  is  said  to  have  been  8  or  9  feet  high,  though  that 
seems  improbable.  The  attack  was  vigorous,  and  the  de- 
fence obstinate.    The  battle  continued  four  hours,  during 


'^  Lord  Howe,  who  accompanied  this  expedition,  was  a 
young  nobleman  of  amiable  disposition,  and  the  most  prepos- 
sessing manners,  and  was  almost  idolized  by  the  army,  as  well 
as  admired  and  loved  f)y  the  comitry. 


170 


THE  NORTHERN 


tvhich  the  English  were  repulsed  three  times.  The  High- 
land regiment  distinguished  itself,  and  suffered  severely. 
The  English  loss,  in  all,  tvas  lOM,  principally  regulars ; 
the  French  very  trifling,  although  they  are  said  not  to 
have  imagined  the  defence  possible.  Their  force  is  dif- 
ferently stated  from  1200  to  6000.  Notwithstanding  his 
superiority  of  force,  Abercrombie  shamefully  ordered  a 
retreat ;  and  thus  terminated  the  operations  of  the  year. 


i""  /, 


VOTAOB  DOWN  LaKE  GeOROE. 


Leaving  Caldwell,  and  passing  Mr.  CaldwelPs  house  at 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  steam  boat  passes  Te^  Island, 
Diamond,  Long,  and  other  Islands,  particularly  the  Two 
Sisters ;  and  then  the  lake  becomes  wider,  and  the  sur- 
face more  uninterrupted,  the  course  of  the  boat  being  di- 
rectly towards  a  remarkable  eminence,  with  a  double 
summit,  called  Tongue  J\Iountain,  That  which  partly  shuts 
it  in  from  this  direction  on  the  right,  is  Shelving  Rock ; 
and  Black  Mountain  shows  its  rounded  summit  beyond  it, 
a  little  to  the  right.  This  last  is  supposed  to  be  about 
2200  feet  high,  and  is  considered  the  highest  mountain  on 
the  lake. 

Twelve  Mile  Island  appears  to  be  at  the  foot  of 
Tongue  Mountain,  and  is  seen  just  ahead  for  a  great  dis- 
tance after  leaving  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  singularly  round- 
ed form,  covered  with  trees,  with  the  utmost  regularity, 
and  protected  from  the  washing  of  the  waves  by  a  range 
of  large  stones  along  the  shore,  so  well  disposed  as  to 
seem  like  a  work  of  art. 

"  A  rich  and  cultivated  slope  is  seen  on  the  western  shore, 
before  reaching  Tongue  Mountain,  which  belongs  to  a 
new  township. 


The  Narrows. 


The  la^e  is  very  much  contracted  where  it  passes  be- 
tween the  mountains  just  mentioned,  and  their  surface  is 
for  several  miles  broken  by  innumerable  islands.    These 


e  High- 
evcrely. 
igulars ; 
d  not  to 
!e  is  dif- 
ding  his 
rdered  a 
ihe  year. 


house  at 
?  Island, 
the  Two 
I  the  sur- 
being  di- 
a  double 
rtly  ^huts 
\g  Rock; 
teyond  it, 
be  about 
untain  on 

e  foot  of 
great  dis- 
Ty  round- 
egularity, 
y  a  range 
sed  as  to 

ern  shore, 
)ngs  to  a 


passes  be' 
surface  is 
s.    These 


Chester; 


Jffpo/car 


<^r 


treof 

elevat 

Lone- 

othen 

graaf, 

and  mi 

hemlo< 

standii 

Sometj 

suppori 

the  nei 

flowers 

grove  0 

and  thi 

you  paa 

to  Tiew, 

narrow 

person  i 

way  oul 

with  the 

they  wei 

After 

and  the 

>age,  w\ 

Mountail 

?reat  disi 

bu  ".  gei 

many  ph 

habited 


This 
from  the] 
of  Haguf 

On  Sj 
merous 
of  the  Si 
by  whicl 
susceptil 


^^^jf°;^iiiutt--j^- 


TIIAVELLEU. 


171 


tre  of  various  sixM)  but  generally  very  small,  and  of  little 
elevation.  A  few  of  tbem  are  named,  as  Green,  Bass, 
Lone-tree  Islands.  Some  of  them  are  covered  with  trees, 
others  with  shruN,  some  show  little  lawns  or  spots  of 
grassy  heaps  of  l*^arren  rocks,  or  gentle  sloping  sbures ; 
and  most  of  them  are  ornamented  with  graceful  pines, 
hemlocks,  and  uther  tall  trees,  collected  in  groupes,  or 
standing  alone,  and  dispoi^ed  with  most  charming  variety. 
Sometimes  an  island  will  be  observed  just  large  enough  to 
support  a  few  fine  trees,  or  perhaps  a  single  one,  while 
the  next  may  appear  like  a  solid  mass  of  bushes  and  wild 
flowers  1  near  at  hand,  perhaps,  is  a  third,  with  a  dark 
grove  of  pines,  and  a  decaying  old  trunk  in  front  of  it ; 
and  thus,  through  every  interval  between  the  islands  as 
you  pass  along,  another  and  another  labyrinth  is  opened 
to  view,  among  little  isolated  spots  of  ground,  divided  by 
narrow  channels,  from  which  it  seems  impossible  for  a 
person  who  should  have  entered  them,  ever  to  find  his 
way  out.  Some  of  the  inlands  look  almost  like  ships 
with  their  masts ;  and  man)  have  an  air  of  lightness  as  if 
they  were  sailing  upon  the  lake. 

After  passing  the  Narrows,  the  lake  widens  again, 
and  the  retrospect  is,  for  several  milea,  through  that  pas- 
sage, with  Tongue  Mountain  on  the  west,  and  Black 
Mountain  opposite,  the  Luzerne  range  appearing  at  a 
s;reat  distance  between  them.  The  mountains  in  view 
bu  '.  generally  rounded  summits  ;  but  the  sides  are  in 
many  places  broken  by  precipitous  ledges.  They  are  in- 
habited by  wolves,  deer,  rattle  snakes,  &c. 


Sabbath  Day  Point. 


'."t 


V 


This  is  a  low  neck  of  land,  stretching  into  the  lake 
from  the  western  shore,  and  containing  the  little  village 
of  Hague.     That  on  the  opposite  shore  is  Putman. 

On  Sabbath  Day  Point,  Lord  Amherst,  with  his  nu- 
merous host,  stopped  for  refreshment  upon  the  morning 
of  the  Sabbath,  and  gave  this  beautiful  point  the  name 
by  which  it  is  now  known :  it  is  a  charming  spot  and 
susceptible  of  the  greatest  embellishment. 


••>:.'."  --;i.^  -^     »;  , 


172 


THE  NORTHERN 


RoGERS^s  Rock  AND  Anthony's  NosEv 

These  are  two  mountains  at  which  the  lake  contracts 
itself  again  to  pass  between  them.  They  are  seen  for 
several  miles,  and  appear  at  firot  to  approach  each  other 
much  nearer  than  they  actually  do.  The  shores  of  the 
lake  still  continue  elevated,  and  all  more  distant  objects 
are  excluded  from  the  sight.  The  country  appears  almost 
without  inhabitants,  but  a  few  cultivated  farms  are  dis< 
tinguishable  here  and  there.  Anthony's  Nuse  presents  a 
precipice,  on  the  eastern  shore,  as  we  enter  the  strait, 
and  the  firing  of  a  gun  produces  a  fine  echo.  Rogers's 
Rock  or  Rogers^s  Slide  is  a  still  more  formidable  one, 
on  the  other  hand,  a  little  further  on.  The  last  re- 
trospect up  the  lake  is  still  very  fine,  even  from  this  point 
—•Black  Mountain  being  yet  clearly  to  be  seen. 

Rogers^s  Slide  has  its  name  from  Capt.  Rogers,  a  parti- 
zan  officer  who  distinguished  himself  in  the  French  war 
by  his  boldness,  activity,  and  success.  He  commanded 
an  expedition  which  left  Crown  Point,  in  the  year  1756 
against  the  Canadian  frontiers,  and  cut  off  the  Indian  vil- 
lage of  St.  Francis,  afterwards  returning  with  the  severest 
hardships,  by  the  way  of  Connecticut  River.  Tradition 
says,  that  he  was  at  another  time  closely  pursued  by  a  party 
of  Indians,  and  forced  to  retreat  to  the  verge  of  this  moun- 
tain. Finding  no  other  way  to  escape,  he  descended  half 
down  by  the  ravine  which  opens  towards  the  south,  and  then 
by  a  sudden  turn  came  to  the  east  side,  where  is  a  preci- 
pice about  200  feet  high,  of  smooth  rock,  and  nearly  per- 
pendicular, down  which  he  slipped  upoi.  his  snow  shoes 
to  the  lake,  escaping  upon  the  ice.  This  «eems  almost 
incredible ;  and  other  accounts  have  been  given  of  it. 
Some  say,  that  the  Indians  supposed  he  bad  fallen  off  tbe 
verge  and  perished,  and  others,  that  he  threw  off  his 
pack  that  way  to  favour  that  belief.  The  water  is  deep 
at  the  bottom,  and  fine  trout  are  caught  there  with  a  long 
line. 

The  lake  here  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  narrow 
pond  for  three  or  four  miles,  and  seems  closed  at  both 
ends.  The  ground  is  still  elevated  on  both  sides,  but 
hills  have  suvccedetl  to  mountains,  and  some  of  these  arr 


TRAVELLER. 


173 


tracts 
n  for 
other 
)f  the 
ibjects 
ailraost 
re  dis- 
ients  a 
strait, 
\ogers''s 
e  one, 
ast  re- 
is  poiut 

a  parti- 
ich  war 
manded 
Kt  1756 
lian  vil- 
sc 


in 


IS 


h  a  long 

narrow 
at  both 
des,  but 
IresBflrr 


at  length  overtopped  by  Black  Mountain,  which,  although 
at  such  a  distance,  at  length  makes  its  appearance  again, 
and  continues  in  sight. 

The  lake  at  length  diminishes  to  a  rery  narrow  stream, 
and  the  bottom  becomes  gradually  covered  with  weeds. 

Lord  Howe's  Landing  is  just  behind  an  island  of  3 
acres,  on  the  left  hand  at  the  entrance  of  the  creek. 
Here  is  the  spot  where  the  unfortunate  expedition  of 
Abercrombie  effected  their  landing,  and  on  the  island 
they  established  their  hospital,  on  their  way  to  the  at- 
tack of  Ticonderoga. 

The  steam  boat  passes  on  some  distance  beyond  this 
place,  and  lands  her  passengers  on  the  other  side,  where, 
at  her  regular  voyages,  carriages  are  found  in  waiting  to 
convey  them  to  Ticonderoga,  3  miles,  over  a  rough 
road. 

Those  who  intend  to  take  asteam  boat  on  Lake  Ghamplain, 
should  be  careful  to  inquire  the  hour  when  it  passes,  and 
regulate  their  time  accordingly.  It  is  intended  that  Ti- 
conderoga shall  become  one  of  the  stopping  places,  which 
will  prove  a  great  convenience,  and  a  fine  inn  is  also 
erecting  there. 

Abcrcrombie*s  army  passed  for  some  part  of  the  way 
along  the  route  we  travel.  Passing  the  Upper  Falls,  which 
are  the  highest,  he  forded  the  creek  above  the  second. 
At  the  falls  near  the  bridge  which  we  pass,  just  above  the 
saw  mills,  was  a  stone  block  house  ;  and  there  was  a  re- 
doubt on  the  north  side  of  the  stream  near  the  bridge, 
where,  as  in  several  other  places,  there  was  some  fighting 
to  carry  the  French  out-posts. 

At  the  Upper  Falls  are  several  valuable  saw  mills  and 
forges,  and  the  scenery  is  highly  picturesque. 

THE  FORTRESS  OF  TICONDEROGA. 

This  famous  old  fortress,  or  rather  its  remains,  are 
distinctly  seen  from  Lake  Champlain,  though  from  the 
direction  by  which  we  approach  it ;  they  are  not  dis- 
covered until  we  approach  near  them.  An  elevated 
piece  of  land,  gei;itly  sloping  towards  the  south,  and 
ending  abruptly  over  a  bend  of  the  lake,  appears  partially 
<7overed  with  trees,  and  crowned  near  its  extremity  with 

Q 


174 


THE  NORTHERN 


a  cluster  of  broken  walls  and  chimneys.  There  is  a, 
meadow  on  the  eas^iiern  side,  running  to  the  base  of  the 
ridge,  and  across  this  is  a  foot  path  from  the  ferry  to  the 
fort  by  the  nearest  way.  A  carriage  road  also  leads  from 
the  ferry  to  the  ridge,  and  thence  down  to  the  same 
place. 

The  Old  French  Lines, 

where  General  Abercrombie  was  defeated  in  175S,  are 
the  only  part  of  the  fortification  which  \vas  ever  the  sce.nc 
of  a  battle.  They  commenced  on  the  east  side,  at  a  bat» 
tery  of  heavy  cannon  on  the  shore,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  south  of  the  ferry.  The  remains  of  the  breast  work 
can  yet  be  seen.  The  lines  were  drawn  in  a  zig-zag; 
first  stretching  oflf  to  the  right,  along  the  side  of  marshy 
ground,  to  a  cluster  of  bushes,  where  was  a  battery  ;  and 
then  to  the  left  to  the  verge  of  a  wood,  where  was  another. 

Their  course  may  be  distinctly  traced  in  this  manner, 
across  the  ridge  of  land  at  its  highest  elevatioii,  over  to 
the  brow  of  a  steep  bank  looking  towards  toe  outlet  of 
Lake  George.  The  ground  is  so  high  on  the  top  of  this 
ridge,  that  it  must  have  been  a  commanding  position  when 
clear  of  trees.  The  woods  which  now  so  much  interrupt 
the  sight,  have  grown  since  the  evacuation  of  the  fortress, 
after  the  Revolutionary  war.     The  trees  are  all  young. 

There  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  near  the  western  part 
of  the  French  lines,  where  a  bloody  engagement  occur- 
red between  two  hostile  parties  during  the  battle.  Bodies 
of  men  have  been  dug  up  hereabouts  within  a  feiv  years, 
and  shot  were  formerly  very  frequently  found  in  old 
timber. 

Mount  Hope  is  a  hilt  about  a  mile  north  from  this 
place.  It  was  occupied  by  Gen.  Bui^oyne*s  British  line, 
which  formed  the  right  wing  on  his  approach  to  Ticon* 
deroga,  on  the  2nd  of  June,  1777  ;  and  on  the  following 
morning,  while  they  were  approaching  through  the  woods 
unsuspicious  and  undiscovered,  one  of  their  soldiers  was 
observed  and  fired  upon  from  a  salient  angle  of  the  lines. 
This  alarmed  the  British,  who  fired ;  and  the  Americans 
were  so  much  excited  that  they  returned  three  volleys, 
without  orders  from  their  officers.    Stransje  as  it  may 


seem  not 
retired  v 
they  succ 
by  gainini 
In  proc 
fortress,  I 
appears  t( 
times  by  t 
of  rocks, 
troops,  ai 
also  remai 
lines  of  sr 
ranged  in  i 
to  embarr 
which  assi 
approach  il 
There  is 
which  the 
there,  at  th 
entrenchmi 
the  edge  of 
was  a  row 
the  walled 
in  some  pla 
bas  been  pa 
8  or  9  yardi 
side  in  somi 
The  fortr 
tract  of  gro 
which  were 
very  much  { 
cation  betw 
staircases,  j 
all  so  calcu 
and  the  asc< 
cannon  and 
remain  will 
much  highei 
tures  of  lof 
protect  the  I 
j)rincipal  pai 
The  Bam 


TRAVELLER. 


175 


seem  not  a  man  was  killed  on  either  side,  and  the  enemy 
retired  without  attempting  any  thing  further  there,  for 
they  succeeded  in  capturing  the  fortress  in  a  few  days, 
by  gaining  the  top  of  Mount  Defiance  with  their  cannon. 

In  proceeding  from  the  French  lines  south  towards  the 
fortress,  by  a  gentle  descent,  the  surface  of  the  ground 
appears  to  have  been  in  some  places  smoothed  in  former 
times  by  the  plough,  and  by  the  removal  and  cutting  away 
of  rocks,  to  render  it  convenient  for  the  evolutions  of 
troops,  and  the  use  of  artillery.  A  close  observer  will 
also  remark  that  he  passes  the  remains  of  several  distinct 
lines  of  small  redoubts,  placed  at  equal  distances,  and 
ranged  in  the  form  of  a  quincunx.  These  were  intended 
to  embarrass  still  further  the  approach  to  the  fortress, 
which  assumes  the  air  of  a  more  important  work  as  you 
approach  it. 

There  is  the  corner  of  a  fence  near  the  fortress,  at 
which  the  horses  are  usually  left.  Just  before  arriving 
there,  at  the  distance  of  about  120  yards,  you  pass  an  old 
entrenchment;  and  about  150  yards  further  bring  you  to 
the  edge  of  the  outer  ditch  or  counterscarp,  where  there 
was  a  row  of  palisadoes.  Five  steps  more  bring  you  to 
the  walled  side  of  the  ditch,  which  is  still  eight  feet  deep 
in  some  places,  and  therefore  impassable  except  where  it 
has  been  partly  filled  up.  Its  breadth  is  generally  about 
8  or  9  yards,  and  the  wall  of  the  fortress  on  the  other 
side  in  some  places  20  or  25  feet  high. 

The  fortress  is  of  an  angular  form,  and  embraces  a  large 
tract  of  ground,  being  divided  into  parts  by  deep  ditches, 
which  were  defended  by  cannon  and  musketry,  and  added 
very  much  to  the  security  of  the  place.  The  communi- 
cation between  these  different  parts  was  kept  up  by  stone 
staircases,  placed  in  convenient  positions  of  the  angles, 
all  so  calculated  as  to  make  the  descent  into  the  ditches, 
and  the  ascent,  circuitous  and  intricate  ;  and  open  to  the 
cannon  and  small  arms.  A  glance  at  some  of  those  which 
remain  will  show  the  plan.  The  wails  were  originally 
much  higher  than  at  present,  being  raised  by  superstruc- 
tures of  logs  filled  in  with  earth,  to  such  a  height  as  to 
protect  the  barracks,  &c.  the  remains  of  which  are  on  the 
})rincipal  part  of  the  fortress. 

The  Barracks  formed  an  oblong,  and  the  walls  still  re* 


176 


THE  NORTHERN 


main  of  all  except  thone  on  the  eastern  side ;  their  form  is 
plainly  distinguishable.  The  parade,  which  they  include, 
appears  to  have  been  formerly  carefully  smoothed,  and  a 
flat  rock,  which  forms  part  of  the  surface,  looks  as  if  it  had 
been  cut  down  by  art.  This  area  is  about  52^  yards  long, 
and  8  in  breadth.  The  barracks,  &c.  the  walls  of  which 
remain  on  the  north,  south,  and  west  sides,  are  built  of 
the  rough  blue  lime-stone  of  which  the  neighbouring  rocks 
spre  formed,  two  stories  high ;  and  these  with  the  chiin> 
neys,  several  of  which  are  standing,  are  the  principal  ob- 
jects seen  from  a  distance.  The  entrances  to  this  court 
yard  or  parade,  are  between  the  buildings,  and  quite  nar- 
row ;  and  the  solid  style  of  building,  with  the  dark  colour 
of  the  stone,  and  the  loopholes  which  are  seen  in  some 
parts  of  the  walls,  increase  the  gloomy  impression  of  the 
ruins.  By  the  southern  entrance,  Ethan  Allen  entered 
with  his  S3  raw  soldiers  when  he  suprised  the  fortress  on 
the  18th  May,  1775 ;  and  on  reaching  the  court  yard  and 
calling  on  the  commander  to  surrender,  the  British  officer, 
Capt.  Deplace,  made  his  appearance  at  a  window  and  tiub- 
mitted,  delivering  up  3  officers  and  44  rank  and  file.  In 
consequence  of  this  coup  dc  main,  this  important  place 
was  in  the  hands  of  the  Americans  until  the  arrival  of 
jPui^oyne  in  1777. 

The  troops  in  the  garrison  had  become  loose  disciplina* 
rlans.  Allen  approached  with  a  few  men  upon  the  oppo- 
site shore,  but  was  unprovided  with  a  conveyance  to  the 
intended  point  of  their  enterprise.  A  countryman,  who 
had  been  in  the  habit  of  frequently  visiting  the  fort,  was 
made  acquainted  with  Allen's  views,  crossed  the  lake 
by  day  light,  went  carefully  into  the  fort,  and  observed 
in  what  part  of  the  parade  ground  the  arms  were  stacked. 
Being  almost  domiciliated  by  the  frequency  of  his  previous 
visits,  he  lounged  away  his  time  until  night  approached. 
He  then  possessed  himself  of  a  large  bateau  owned  by 
the  garrison,  and  recrossed  the  lake.  Allen  with  his  little 
Spartan  band  embarked,  effiscted  a  landing  about  one 
mile  north  of  the  fort,  and  proceeded  across  the  meadows, 
shrouded  by  the  night,  and  made  good  their  daring  enter- 
prise, by  threatening  the  sentry  and  taking  immediate 
possession  of  the  fire  arms,  as  pointed  out  by  their  avant 
courier. 


The 
flag  of  i 
render 
to  the  t 

At  ea 
under  t 
apartmc 
trance  t 
probablj 
ovens  al 
larger,  1 
arched, 
and  10 
proof, 
demolisl: 


more  gui 
to  fire  do 
shrubs 
cvacuati( 
where  at 
appearan 
selves  w 
delightfu 
east,  an( 
a  store 


TRAVELLER. 


177 


The  battlements  of  Ticonderoga  first  bore  tbe  proud 
flag  of  independence.  This  circumstance  should  of  itself 
render  this  ruin,  so  fine  in  other  associations,  interesting 
to  the  traveller. 

At  each  corner  was  a  bastion  or  a  demi-bastion  ;  and 
under  that  in  the  north-eastern  one  is  a  subterranean 
apartment,  the  access  to  which  is  through  a  small  en- 
trance near  that  corner  of  the  court  yard.  The  room  was 
probably  a  kitchen,  as  it  has  a  fire  place  and  two  arched 
ovens  at  the  further  end  :  that  on  the  left,  which  is  the 
larger,  being  19  or  20  feet  long.  The  room  is  also 
arched,  measures  about  35  feet  in  length,  21  in  breadth, 
and  10  or  11  in  height,  and  like  the  ovens  was  bomb- 
proof. The  cellars  south  of  this,  which  belonged  to  the 
demolished  buildings,  and  are  almost  filled  up,  have  a 
room  or  two  with  fire  places  still  distinguishable. 


The  Grenadiers*  Battert. 


This  important  outwork  is  situated  on  a  rocky  point  to- 
wards the  east  from  the  main  fortress.  They  were  con- 
nected by  a  covered  way,  the  traces  of  which  are  dis- 
tinctly visible.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  faced  with 
stone,  with  five  bides,  one  of  which  measures  about  180 
feet ;  but  that  towards  the  lake  has  been  undermined  by 
time  and  slipped  down  the  bank.  The  remaining  parts 
are  nearly  entire,  and  about  10  feet  high. 

Still  in  advance  of  the  Grenadiers*  Battery  is  a  small 
tvork  of  earth,  which  might  have  contained  5  or  6  guns ; 
while  in  front  of  it,  and  on  the  extreme  point,  two  or  three 
more  guns  appear  to  have  been  placed  between  the  rocks, 
to  fire  down  upon  the  water,  about  40  feet  below.  The 
shrubs  and  trees  which  have  grown  up  since  the 
evacuation  of  the  place,  with  the  ivy  which  hangs  every 
where  among  the  rocks,  give  the  spot  a  very  romantic 
appearance ;  and  if  the  visiters  have  furnished  them- 
selves with  refreshments,  they  will  not  find  a  more 
delightful  place  to  ifcgale  themselves.  A  little  further 
east,  and  under  the  bank,  is  an  old  stone  house,  formerly 
a  store  helonging  to  the  fort,  and  now  occupied  by  the 

Q  2 


178 


THE  NORTHERN 


tenunt  of  Mr.  Pell,  the  proprietor  of  the  whole  peninsula 
of  Ticonderoga.  On  a  spot  formerly  occupied  as  the 
KingU  Gardent  Mr.  P.  has  a  fine  garden,  abounding  in  (he 
choicest  fruits  imported  from  Europe,  and  transported 
from  the  celebrated  nurseries  of  Long  Island.  Mr.  Pell 
has  been  a  very  successful  propagator  of  the  locust  tree, 
{Rotrinia  Paeudo  acacia  of  Linnaeus,)  thousands  of  ivhich 
are  growing  on  these  grounds  in  the  most  flourishing  man- 
ner :  here  is  also  the  J^agnolia  Grandifloray  never  before 
cultivated  in  so  high  a  latitude ;  the  horse  chesnut  ( Cas" 
tanea  Eqmnus,)  and  upwards  of  70  varieties  of  the  goose- 
berry from  Europe.  Here  also  we  find  the  beautiful  CatatpOf 
and  the  Liriodendron  tulipefera.  The  grounds  are  laid  out 
with  good  taste,  and  when  visited  by  the  author  were  in 
excellent  order.  If  it  is  the  intention  of  the  traveller  to 
cross  the  lake,  to  the  neighbouring  Vermont  shore,  where 
are  still  some  slight  remains  c .  Burgoyne's  entrenchments, 
he  will  be  much  pleased  with  a  walk  across  the  mea- 
dows to  the  upper  ferry,  a  distance  of  about  ^  of  a  mile. 
This  will  remind  him,  if  he  has  been  abroad,  of  the  park 
scenery  of  England ;  and  the  view  of  the  ruins  from  those 
meadows  is  strikingly  beautiful :  the  clumps  of  trees,  the 
circuitous  route,  the  view  of  Lake  Ghamplain  on  the 
right,  and  an  amphitheatre  of  wood  on  the  left,  make  this 
a  most  beautiful  and  interesting  route. 

Between  the  Grenadiers'  Battery  and  the  fortress,  the 
shore  retains  traces  of  many  little  terraces,  breastworks, 
and  buildings,  such  as  were  probably  work  shops,  barracks, 
stores,  &c. 

From  the  more  elevated  parts  of  the  works  the  visiter 
enjoys,  in  fine  weather,  a  delightful  view  of  the  lake  and 
the  surrounding  country.  On  the  right  is  the  outlet  of 
Lake  George,  winding  through  a  dark  and  narrow  valley, 
and  spreading  out  to  embrace  an  island  of  the  brightest 
Tcrdure ;  while  more  immediately  under  the  eye  lies  a 
fertile  little  meadow,  interspersed  with  a  few  trees  and 
clusters  of  shrubs,  and  after  the  hay  has  been  made  and 
stacked,  sometimes  enlivened  by  a  herd  of  horses  or  cattle. 
The  south-western  angle  of  the  fortress,  which  looks  down 
upon  this  scene,  is  one  of  the  most  elevated  parts  of  the 
remaining  wall,  and  overhangs  the  descent  to  the  mea- 
dow, at  the  edge  of  which,  jast  by  the  side  of  a  stone  wall 


TRAVELLER. 


17U^ 


below,  arc  seen  the  traces  of  the  old  covered  way,  ivhich 
led  from  the  south  gate  to  the  margin  of  the  lake. 

The  great  mountain,  which  rises  dark  and  abruptly  (Vom 
the  opposite  shore,  is 

Mount  Defiance,  about  800  feet  high,  on  the  summit 
of  which  Gen.  Burgoyne^s  troops  showed  themselves  on 
the  morning  of  July  4th,  1777,  with  a  battery  of  heavy 
cannon,  which  they  had  drawn  up  along  the  ridge  by  night, 
and  planted  in  that  commanding  position,  whence  they 
could  count  the  men  in  the  fort.  The  distance  to  the  sum- 
mit in  a  straight  line  is  about  a  mile,  so  that  the  defence 
of  Ticonderoga  would  have  been  impossible ;  and  on  the 
firing  of  a  few  shots  by  the  British  upon  a  vessel  in  the 
lake,  which  proved  the  range  of  their  guns,  the  Ameri- 
cans made  preparations  to  evacuate  the  place,  and  effected 
their  retreat  to  the  opposite  shore  during  the  night. 

At  the  foot  of  Mount  Defiance  is  a  beautiful  little  bay 
formed  by  a  narrow  piece  of  land,  called  Sword  Point, 
from  its  bending  round  in  the  arc  of  a  circle,  and  covered 
with  trees  and  bushes. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Defiance  is  laborious,  but  the 
view  is  extremely  fine  from  its  summit.  There  are  the 
remains  of  Burgoyne*s  battery,  with  holes  drilled  in  the 
rocks  for  blasting,  and  the  marks  of  a  large  block  house. 
A  screw  jack  for  raising  their  heavy  cannon  from  tree  to 
tree  was  found  a  few  years  ago,  and  removed,  with  other 
articles. 

Mount  Independekcb  is  a  hill  of  comparatively  small 
elevation  east  of  Mount  Defiance,  and  separated  from  it 
by  the  lake,  which  has  here  reduced  its  size  to  that  of  a 
small  river.  On  a  bank,  just  above  the  water,  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  zig-zag  battery  for  about  40  or  50  guns,  run- 
ning across  a  little  corn  field  behind  a  house,  and  making 
fire  or  six  angles.  The  Horse  Shoe  Battery  is  traceable  on 
an  elevation  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear.  A  bridge 
once  connected  Ticonderoga  with  Mount  Defiance,  the 
buttresses  of  which  are  remaining,  to  the  great  annoyance 
of  the  navigators  of  the  lake  ;  the  steam  boat  passes  to  the 
south  of  them.  On  the  west  shore,  (near  the  stone  store 
house,)  Arnold,  when  pursued  by  the  British,  caused 
bis  flotilla  to  be  run  on  shore.  These  bulks  remain 
almost  as  sound  as  when  first  stranded.     A  forty-two 


180 


THE  NORTHERN 


pounder  is  said  to  hnve  ranged  from  the  Horse  Shoe  over 
this  channel,  (now  marked  by  a  buoy,)  and  the  fortress. 

After  the  Revolutionary  war  about  500  cannon  were 
lying  about  the  fortress,  lines,  &c.  many  of  them  as  left 
by  the  English  with  their  truniuns  knocked  off.  A  twenty- 
four  pounder  was  taken  to  the  forge  at  Fair-Haven  «omc 
few  years  ago,  and  discharged  by  the  heat,  after  lying 
loaded  for  above  twenty  years,  and  a  considerable  time  at 
the  bottom  of  the  lake. 

The  mountainous  region  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake 
abounds  with  deer,  and  considerable  numbers  are  killed 
evenr  season. 

Ticonderoga  is  doubtless  destined  to  become  a  favourite 
place  of  resort  for  strangers,  as  it  possesses  so  many  at- 
tractions in  its  scenery,  its  historical  monuments  and  ^s* 
sociations,  and  will  hereafter  offer  so  many  conveniences, 
in  being  a  stopping  place  for  the  steam  boats,  and  furnished 
with  a  large  hotel. 

The  Passage  from  Ticonderoga  down  Lake  Cham- 
plain 

is  very  pleasant,  abounding,  the  greater  part  of  the  wav 
to  Canada,  with  fine  natural  scenes. 

Five  Mile  Point.  V'  ,^   ^. 

The  lake  is  narrow  at  this  place,  which  is  remarkable 
as  the  landing  place  of  Gen.  Burgoync^s  expedition,  as 
already  mentioned.  Mountains  appear  in  the  west  and 
north-west,  with  occasional  intervals  all  the  way  up  to 
Crown  Point ;  while  in  the  north,  b  n  lofty  and  imposing 
range,  with  two  or  three  peaks  almost  bald  from  the 
height  of  their  elevation.  Summits  multiply  as  we  pro- 
ceed, and  distant  mountains  arise  also  in  the  north-east ; 
while  Mount  Defiance  and  other  eminences  towards  thr. 
south  bound  the  view  in  that  direction.  There  are  scat- 
tering farms  and  houses  on  both  shores. 

Navigation  of  Lake  Champlain.  Great  numbers  of  small 
schooners  navigate  these  waters,  and  within  a  few  years 
numerous  canal  boats,  some  of  them  fitted  with  masts  for 
schooners  for  sailing,  Annesley's  mode  of  building  vessel 


has  late 

timbers 

running 

There 

The  si 

of  blue  li 

The  in 

Crown  I 

at  a  righi 

to  the  no 

young  foi 

ancient  f< 

and  histo 


where  the 
gers,  is  oi 
house  in  f 
stop  if  th 
is  opposite 
From  t1 
sive,  up  tl 
its  narrof 
and  a  mo 
mountains 
nences  ne; 
This  po 
breast  woi 
40  or  50  r 
be  brough 
garrison. 
Crown  Pc 
immediate 


There 
with  little 
called  the 
^inaloldF 


TRAVELLER. 


m 


has  lately  bepn  adopted  here  to  some  extent,  in  which 
timbers  are  discarded,  and  the  bulls  formed  of  inch  boprds 
running  in  several  thicknesses,  and  in  cross  directions. 

There  are  many  fish  caught  in  some  parts  of  the  lake. 

The  shores  are  in  this  part  strewed  with  the  fragments 
of  blue  lime-stone  rock  with  organic  remains. 

The  immediate  shores  are  generally  low  all  the  way  to 
Crown  Point,  where  the  lake  suddenly  turns  to  the  west 
at  a  right  angle,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  as  suddenly 
to  the  north  again.  A  low  stretch  of  land  covered  with  a 
joung  forest  on  the  left,  conceals  the  approach  to  this 
ancient  fortress,  which,  for  position,  as  well  as  appearance 
and  history,  may  be  called  the  twin  sister  of  Ticonderoga. 


Chihmbt  Foikt, 


:\  ■^-'■j 


where  the  steam  boat  often  receives  and  lands  passen- 
gers, is  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake,  with  a  lai^e  public 
house  in  a  pleasant  situation  ;  and  here  is  the  place  to 
stop  if  the  traveller  intends  to  visit  Crown  Point,  which 
is  opposite,  across  a  ferry  $  of  a  mile. 

From  this  elevated  spot  the  view  is  various  and  exten- 
sive, up  the  lake  on  the  left,  down  it  on  the  right,  with 
its  narrow  channel  just  in  front — Crown  Point  opposite, 
and  a  mountain  beyond,  with  many  ranges  of  distant 
mountains  towards  the  south-east,  and  several  bold  emi- 
nences near  at  hand  in  the  south-west  and  west. 

This  point  is  almost  insulated  by  two  bays ;  and  an  old 
breast  work  is  partly  perceptible,  which  formerly  stretched 
40  or  50  rods  between  them,  near  a  barn.  Cattle  used  to 
be  brought  down  here  in  great  numbers  for  the  use  of  the 
garrison.  A  ferry  boat  will  take  the  traveller  over  to 
Crown  Point  at  any  hour,  but  the  steam  boat  proceeds 
immediately. 

The  Fortress  op  Crown  Point. 

There  are  several  old  works  thrown  up  along  the  shore, 
with  little  bays  between  tbem.  The  eastern-most  one  is 
called  the  Grenadiers'  Battery,  the  middle  one  is  the  ori- 
ginal old  French  for't  of  1731,  and  now  encloses  a  garden  ; 


182 


THE  NORHERN 


and  that  further  west  is  an  outwork  to  a  bastion  of  the 
fortress. 

The  fortress  is  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  back 
from  the  shore,  and  appears  much  like  Ticonderoga  from 
a  distance,  showing  the  walls  and  chimneys  of  the  old 
barracks,  and  walls  of  earth  surrounding  them.  In  regard 
to  its  plan,  however,  it  is  materially  different.  The  for- 
tress of  Crown  Point  was  a  star  work,  being  in  the  form 
of  a  pentagon,  with  bastions  at  the  angles,  and  a  strong  re- 
doubt at  the  distance  of  250  or  300  yards  in  advance  of 
each  of  them.  The  fortress  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch 
welled  in  with  stone,  except  where  it  has  been  blasted 
into  the  solid  rock  of  blue  lime-stone,  (as  is  the  case  in 
many  parts,  from  five  to  twenty-five  feet,)  and  even  into 
the  quarts  rock  which  underlays  it.  Univalve  shells  are 
found  in  the  .limc-stone  rock,  frequently  four  inches  in 
diameter.  The  walls  are  about  20  or  25  feet  high,  and 
there  is  a  convenient  path  running  entirely  round  upon 
the  top,  interrupted  only  by  the  gates  at  the  north  and 
south  sides.  Although  much  shaded  by  tall  sumacs,  some 
fine  views  are  enjoyed  in  making  the  circuit,  which  is  not 
far  short  of  half  a  mile.     It  was  built  in  1756. 

Opposite  the  north  gate  is  a  small  ledge  of  rocks; 
and  close  by,  the  remains  of  a  covered  or  a  subterraneous 
way  to  the  lake  shore.  On  entering  the  fortress,  the 
stranger  finds  himself  in  a  level,  spacious  area,  bounded 
on  the  left,  and  in  front,  by  long  ruinous  buildings  of 
stones  two  stories  high,  and  the  first  220  feet  long,  while 
the  ruins  of  similar  ones  are  seen  on  two  sides  on  the 
right.  This  parade  is  about  500  feet  in  length.  The 
place  was  surprised  b^  Col.  Warner  in  1775. 

The  view  from  the  walls  towards  the  north  is  very  fine : 
looking  down  the  lake,  which  widens  at  the  distance  of 
two  or  three  miles,  you  have  Chimney  Point  on  the  right, 
and  two  other  points  projecting  oeyond  the  distant  peak, 
called  CameVs  Hump ;  a  range  of  mountains  on  the  western 
shore,  beginning  at  the  distance  of  IS  miles,  including 
Bald  Peak,  gradually  approach  till  they  form  a  near 
and  bold  boundary  to  the  lake  on  the  left,  scattered  with 
cleared  farms  and  houses,  and  then  stretching  away  to 
the  south,  terLxinate  in  the  mountains  behind.  This 
elevation,  althoi<^h  it  seems  almost  as  well  calculated  to 


«:ommao 

deroga,  i 

Every 

ruin.     T 

the  sout 

shingled 

mow  and 

and  othei 

ground  ai 

blasted  ro 

of  old  bui 

since  the  e 

is  an  inscr 


TUAVELLEU. 


183 


of  the 

le  back 
;a  from 
:he  old 
regard 
he  for- 
le  form 


r  rocks; 
rraneous 
ress,  the 
bounded 
Idiiigs  of 
ig,  while 
)  on  the 
h.     The 

ery  fine : 
stance  of 
Ibe  right, 
int  peak, 
}  western 
ncluding 
I  a  near 
Bred  with 
away  to 
Id.  This 
ilated  to 


command  Crown  Point  as  Mount  Defiance  docs  Ticon- 
deroga,  is  not  less  than  four  miles  distant. 

Every  thing  about  this  oM  fortress  bears  the  marks  of 
ruin.  Two  magazines  were  blown  up  ;  the  timbers  in 
the  south  barracks  are  burnt  black ;  a  portion  of  the 
shingled  roof  which  remains  serves  to  cover  a  little  hay 
mow  and  the  nests  of  robins  ;  while  some  of  the  entrances 
and  other  parts  are  fenced  up  for  a  sheep  fold.  The 
ground  around  it  is  much  covered  with  fragments  of 
blasted  rocks,  and,  particularly  at  the  south,  with  the  ruins 
of  old  buildings.  The  trees  which  are  seen,  have  grown 
since  the  evacuation  of  the  place ;  and  on  one  of  the  angles 
is  an  inscription  uf  the  date  of  the  fortress. 

In  1776  the  British  had  a  fleet  on  Lake  Champlain  com- 
posed of  the  following  vessels :  ship  Inflexible,  Capt. 
Pringle,  carrying  18  twelve  pounders ;  two  schooners,  one 
with  14  the  other  with  12  six  pounders ;  a  flat-bottomed 
radeau  with  C  twenty-fours  and  6  twelves  ;  and  20  small 
crafl,|each  carrying  a  gun  from  nine  to  twenty-four  pound- 
ers, and  several  long  boats,  beside  boats  for  bs^gage, 
stores,  &c. 

The  Americans  had  only  2  brigs,  1  corvette,  1  sloop, 
3 galleys,  and  8  gondolas,  tho  largest  vessel  carrying  only 
12  six  and  four  pounders.  These  were  under  the  com- 
mand of  Arnold,  who  drew  them  up  between  the  island 
of  Valincourt  and  the  western  shore,  where  they  were  at- 
tacked. They  fought  four  hours,  and  the  British  at  last 
retreated ;  but  while  making  his  way  towards  Crown 
Point,  Arnold  was  overtaken,  and  nearly  all  the  squadron 
fled  up  the  lake,  passing  this  place  which  was  evacuated. 
Arnold  remained  fighting  as  long  as  possible,  and  did  not 
leave  his  vessel  until  she  had  taken  fire. 

The  eastern  bastion  rakes  the  little  bay,  over  which  is 
seen  the  Grenadiers'  Battery,  backed  by  a  high  hill  on  the 
opposite  shore,  and  several  ranges  of  mountains.  On  the 
right  stretches  away  the  lake,  with  still  more  lofty  blue 
ranges  in  the  distance,  uninterrupted  to  the  very  south. 
The  intermediate  near  ground  declines  gently  and 
smoothly  before  us ;  and  before  the  present  growth  of  oaks 
and  other  trees  made  their  appearance,  could  he  swept  by 
the  cannon  of  the  fortress. 

On  making  a  signal  at  the  fcrrv  to  the  steam  boat,  she 


184 


TH£  NORTHERN 


vrill  stop  and  send  fur  a  passenger.  Proceeding  down  the 
lake,  the  breadth  of  it  soon  increases,  and  at  the  two 
islands  on  the  right  it  is  about  1^  miles  across.  A  little 
further  is 

Put'tn^Bay,  on  the  eastern  shore,  with  an  island  of 
the  same  name.  A  little  north  the  lake  appears  nar- 
rower than  it  is,  with  a  precipice  on  the  left,  and  a  small 
island  on  the  right,  with  three  bushes  on  it,  which  has 
hence  obtained  the  name  of  the  Scotch  Bonnet,  Looking 
south  the  lake  presents  a  fine  expanse,  extending  almost 
to  Crown  Point,  with  Bald  Peak  conspicuous  on  the  right 

Basin  Harbour  is  a  stopping  place.  It  is  rery  small, 
"with  room  for  only  3  or  4  vesseU.  At  a  great  distance  in 
the  N.  E.  is  seen  the  CamcPs  Hump :  further  north  a  high 
mountain  in  Halifax,  Vt. 

Sloop  Island,  17  miles  from  Burlington,  is  low  in  the 

<«.  middle,  and  contains  several  trees,  which  look  not  unlike 

masts.     It  was  mistaken  for  a  sloop  in  a  misty  day,  in  the 

Reyolutionary  or  French  war,  and  fired  upon  by  a  vessel, 

whence  its  name. 

At  Hartford  the  lake  suddenly  opens  to  the  breadth  of 
several  miles,  and  a  new  scene  is  presented  to  view.  On 
the  west  side  is  a  rounded  island  covered  with  pine  trees, 
like  much  of  the  shore  previously  seen,  and  separated  from 
the  main  land  only  by  a  narrow  rent  of  about  fifteen  feet. 
Apparently  just  within  this  aperture  is  a  rude  arch  of  rock, 
like  the  remains  of  an  ancient  bridge.  A  beautiful  bay 
makes  up  behind  the  island,  of  which  a  glimpse  is  caught 
in  passing ;  and  a  little  further  north  it  opens  beautifully 
to  view,  with  a  smooth  declining  shore  beautifully  cult!- 
▼ated  for  several  miles.  Farms  and  farm  houses  are  seen 
there  in  every  direction,  and  the  country  exhibits  every 
appearance  of  industry  and  fertility ;  while  a  blue  range 
of  the  AUeghanies  rises  behind  them,  like  the  Calakill 
Mountains  seen  from  the  city  of  Hudson. 

On  the  eastern  side,  the .  Green  Mountains  tower  at  a 
distance  over  the  wild,  uncultivated  shore,  till  a  cluster  of 
white  buildings  is  discovered  forming  the  little  village 
of  Charlotte  or  McNeil's  Ferry,  which  is  backed  by  a 
few  fields  and  orchards.  Further  north  the  shores  are 
rocky,  and  rise  abruptly  from  the  water. 


»¥rn  Ibc 

the  two 

A  little 

slanrl  of 
irs  nar> 
I  a  small 
hich  has 
Looking 
g  almost 
;hc  right, 
iry  small, 
stance  in 
ill  a  high 

ow  in  the 

lot  unlike 

ay,  in  the 

a  vessel, 

breadth  of 
iew.    On 
)ine  trees, 
rated  from 
fteen  feet. 
Bh  of  rock, 
utiful  bay 
e  is  caught 
beautifully 
fully  culti- 
3s  are  seen 
ibits  every 
blue  range 
he  Catbkill 

tower  at  a 
a  cluster  of 
ittle  village 
lacked  by  a 
shores  are 


-^ 


» 


,.iH 


C^ 


Xj^ 


P'/ 


ffbrt 


'  -"" 


xl 


r>^ 


ri<Aitfate 


Stl^lbaiui 


This; 

situated 

The  lBk< 

south,  ai 

wnoum 

of  irbjcl 

the  bills 

theel^ 

with  (he 

the  bay, 

across,  ai 

opposite  I 

Windsor 


IIP^' 


'<"«*. 


Q) 


«*^. 


Fort  Kent, 


W 


^ 


19  a  small 
lingtoD. 
port  to 
country, 
tains  tiro  I 


This  is 
the  banks! 
behind  tb( 
lioe  of  fol 
town  coi 

PlattsbJ 
during  thj 


While 
Geoi^e 
occupyini 
droops,  w1 


Mrohf 


\ 


TRAVELLER. 


486 


A 


SObaiu 


"jB'tf'M' 


BURLINGTON, 

TbU  is  the  largest  town  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  is 
situated  m  a  commanding  as  well  as  a  delightful  position. 
The  lake  suddenly  widens  as  you  approach  it  from  the 
south,  and  a  fine  semicircularbay  puts  up  to  it  from  the  east, 
surrounded  by  a  crescent  of  high  ground,  under  the  shelter 
of  which  the  town  is  situated.  The  view  from  the  top  of 
the  hills  is  truly  admirable  ;  embracing  in  the  foreground 
the  elegant  gardens  of  some  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants, 
with  the  streets  of  Burlington  below,  the  curving  form  of 
the  bay,  the  whole  breadth  of  the  lake,  here  ten  miles 
across,  and  a  noble  chain  of  distant  blue  mountains  on  the 
opposite  side.  The  college  has  been  rebuilt.  The  rot\d  to 
Windsor  by  the  Gulf  is  very  good  and  interesting. 

Port  Kent,  10  mi2e9, 

is  a  small  village  on  the  western  shore  16  miles  from  Bur* 
lington.  It  was  begun  to  be  built  in  1824,  to  serve  as  a 
port  to  the  Iron  works  established  a  little  back  in  the 
country,  where  there  is  a  vast  quantity  of  ore.  It  con- 
tains two  large  stores,  a  wharf,  &c. 

PLATTSBURGH,  8  mUes. 

Thb  is  a  town  of  considerable  importance,  situated  on 
the  banks  of  a  ss;all  river  called  the  Saranac,  and  just 
behind  the  high  and  steep  bank  of  the  lake,  on  which  is  a 
Hoe  of  forts  erected  for  the  defence  of  the  place.  The 
town  commands  a  fine  view.  {Waterfalls  on  the  Saranac.) 

Piattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  a  land  and  naval  battle 
during  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain. 

The  Battle  op  Plattsburou. 

While  Gen.  Macomb  was  stationed  at  Piattsburgh,  Sir 
George  Prevost  came  from  Canada  with  an  army,  and 
occupying  the  village,  stood  ready  to  attack  the  American 
troops,  who  were  in  position  on  the  elevated  ground,  hsr 

■  ^  J 


: 


-   ' 


ISG 


THE  NORTHERN 


tween  the  east  bank  of  the  river  Saranac  and  the  precipi- 
tous shore  of  the  lake,  where  a  number  of  forts,  &e.  are 
still  to  be  seen.  Com.  McDonough  was  at  that  time  on 
the  lake  with  the  American  squadron ;  and  hearing  Qf 
the  approach  of  Capt.  Downie  with  the  British  ships,  ex- 
tended his  line  between  Hospital  Island  and  Cumberland 
Head^  where  he  received  and  fought  the  enemy,  with  such 
success  as  to  capture  all  his  vessels.  The  action  con* 
tinned  2  hours  and  20  minutes,  and  was  performed  in  full 
sight  of  the  armies.  Capt.  Downie*s  ship,  the  Confiance, 
had  105  shot  in  her  hull,  and  the  Saratoga  69,  and  was 
twice  on  fire.  This  battle  caused  the  retreat  of  Prevost, 
and  relieved  that  part  of  the  country  from  being  overrun. 
McDonougKs  Farm  lies  on  that  part  of  Cumberland 
Head  which  is  opposite  the  scene  of  his  battle,  and  consists 
of  200  acres.  It  was  presented  to  him  by  the  Legislature 
of  Vermont,  in  gratitude  for  his  victory. 


CHAZY,  15  m«e*. 
RonsR*s  Point,  12  mUes,         i 

There  is  a  village  by  this  name,  on  the  westei*n  side ; 
and  a  mile  beyond  it. 

The  Fort,  which  is  a  kind  of  large  castle,  built  of  hewn 
stone,  with  perpendicular  walls,  and  three  tiers  of  embra> 
sures.  It  stands  at  the  end  of  a  low  point,  and  was  built 
to  command  the  passage  of  the  lake  during  the  last  war. 
On  running  the  line  of  the  United  States  and  Canada, 
the  commissioners  at  first  fixed  the  boundary  a  little  south 
of  this  place,  so  as  to  bring  the  fort  within  the  limits  of 
the  latter  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  line  agreed  on  by 
the  treaty  coming  too  near  Quebec,  it  was  determined 
that  an  arrangement  should  be  made  for  the  benefit  of 
both  parties  ;  and  the  boundary  has  been  left  in  its  former 
place.  An  opening  through  the  woods,  like  a  road,  marks 
the  place,  about  half  a  mile  north  of  the  fort. 

The  country  hereabouts  is  very  uninteresting :  for  the 
level  country  has  begun  which  extends  far  into  Canada. 
The  appearance  of  the  banks  is  quite  uniform ;  they 
llfeing  low,  and  in  many  places  aImo»t  overflown  by  the 


'kC.  are 
time  on 
(ring  of 
ips,  ex- 
Iberland 
Ith  such 


tem  side  -, 

It  of  hewn 
of  embra> 
.  was  built 
!  last  war. 
Canada, 
Htle  south 
t  limits  of 
eed  on  by 
etermined 
benefit  of 
its  former 
ad,  marks 

g:  for  the 
0  Canada, 
rm;  they 
vrn  by  the 


..f 


waters 
tion,  b 
of  pop 


This 
with  ju 
elevatio 
the  islai 
and  enti 
Then 
angles ; 
and  the 
the  stort 
east  8id< 
tance  by 
places, 
ters,  gen 
dens  tas 
Chinese 
hospital, 
bearing 
diers'  qu 
mented  y 
The  c 
two  divis 
soldiers, 
ceeded  d 
and  Croi 
other,  w 
consistec 
ceeded 
for  Queb 
ceeded  t 
place  a  c 
Beyon 
with  nui 
forest  en 


n.vh'f 


TKAVELLEll. 


187 


waters  of  the  lake.  There  are  but  few  signs  of  cultiva- 
tion, but  the  country  is  evidently  experiencing  an  increase 
uf  population. 


,..t 


Isle  avx  Noix,  1 1  miles. 


This  is  the  English  frontier  post ;  and  has  been  chosen 
with  judgment,  as  although  the  ground  is  of  hardly  any 
elevation,  it  is  higher  than  any  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and 
the  island  is  so  situated  as  partly  to  occupy  the  channel, 
and  entirely  to  command  it. 

There  is  a  long  wall  and  battery  on  the  south  side,  with 
angles ;  beyond  which  are  seen  a  large  stone  building, 
and  the  roofs  of  others  on  the  left  and  right  of  it,  forming 
the  store  houses,  &c.  of  the  post.  The  channel  is  on  the 
east  side,  and  very  narrow,  faced  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance by  another  battery.  Sentries  are  posted  in  different 
places.  The  ship  yard  succeeds,  and  the  officers*  quar- 
ters, generally  neat,  one  story  buildings,  with  little  fpx-' 
dens  tastefully  laid  out.  Here  is  a  landing  place  in  the 
Chinese  style.  A  large  stockaded  building,  which  is  the 
hospital,  succeeds,  with  a  large  arch  raised  on  the  shore, 
bearing  the  royal  crown.  1  he  little  cabins  are  the  sol- 
diers* quarters,  and  some  of  them  are  neat,  and  orna- 
mented with  flowers. 

The  expedition  against  Canada,  in  1775,  consisted  of 
two  divisions :  one  of  3000  New-England  and  New- York 
soldiers,  under  Generals  Schuyler  and  Montgomery,  pro- 
ceeded down  Lake  Ghamplain  in  rafts,  from  Ticonderoga 
and  Crown  Point,  and  took  position  at  Isle  aux  Noix.  The 
other,  which  was  planned  and  despatched  subsequently, 
consisted  of  a  large  body,  under  Gen.  Arnold,  and  pro- 
ceeded through  the  wilderness,  in  the  District  of  Maine, 
for  Quebec.  The  former  division,  after  a  little  delay,  pro- 
ceeded to  St.  John's.  They  afterwards  formed  at  this 
place  a  chevaux  de  frieze  in  the  river. 

Beyond,  the  shores  continue  low  and  uninteresting, 
with  numerous  cabins  of  settlers  near  the  water,  the 
forest  encroaching  to  within  a  short  distance  behind. 


188 


THE  NORTHERN 


St.  John's,  10  miles. 

Here  the  steam  boat  stops,  at  the  head  of  the  raping, 
and  at  the  end  of  navigation.  Stage  coaches  are  some- 
times  kept  in  readiness  to  take  the  passengers  directly  on 
their  way  to  Montreal :  ( 1 6  miles  by  land,  and  9  by  water  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  in  a  steam  boat.)  But  the  arrangements 
are  sometimes  different,  and  it  has  eten  been  the  custom 
often  to  spend  a  night  in  this  place.  The  stage  house,  on  the 
left  hand,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up  the  main  street,  is 
in  some  respects  an  excellent  house. 

The  village  presents  nothing  worthy  of  particular  atten- 
tion, except  as  the  scene  of  some  military  deeds,  connect- 
ed with  the  expedition  of  Gen.  Montgomery  against  this 
country. 

While  the  continental  troqis  were  stationed  at  Isle  aux 
Noix,  in  1775,  Generals  Montgomery  and  Schuyler  came 
down  the  river,  and  landed  a  mile  and  a  half  above  this 
town,  bat  were  attacked  by  the  Indians  on  their  march, 
and  though  they  succeeded  in  repelling  them,  thought 
proper  to  return.  Soon  afterwards  they  came  again  and 
invested  the  fort,  which  contained  a  garrison  of  5  or  600 
troops,  beside  200  Canadians,  and  was  commanded  by 
MiQor  Preston.  The  siege  lasted  6  weeks,  and  they  did 
not  capitulate  till  some  time  after  the  surrender  of  Cham- 
biy,  nor  till  the  Americans  had  brought  their  trenches  to 
the  walls  of  the  fort.  They  then  obtained  possession  of 
17  brass  pieces,  22  iron,  7  mortari^,  with  balls,  bombs,  &c. 
&c« 

The  Canadian  money  is  different  (tom  that  of  the 
United  States ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  continual  inter- 
course,  the  latter  passes  currently.  Nine  sous  or  cop- 
pers, (which  are  of  various  and  sometimes  curious  stamps,) 
equal  six  cents.    2  sous  nearly  1  d,  and  20  cents  a  shilling. 

The  pleasantest  road  from  St.  John's  to  Montreal,  is  by 
Chambly,  and  Longueil,  (for  which,  see  the  Index ;)  but 
as  no  regular  coaches  go  that  way,  it  is  recommended  to 
hire  a  carriage  in  Montreal,  on  returning  from  Quebec. 
Leaving  St.  John's  for  Montreal,  the  road  pasies  about 
^  a  mile  along  the  western  shore  of  the  River  Richelieu, 
which  sometimes  takes  the  names  of  St.  John's  and  So- 


TRAVELLEU. 


ISU 


rapicts, 
some- 
ictly  on 
rater  on 
;ementt 
custom 
if  on  the 
itreet,  is 


tisteaux 
jrler  came 
ibote  thb 
lir  march, 
I,  thought 
again  and 
r  5  or  600 
landed  by 
id  they  did 
:  of  Cham- 
trenches  to 
msession  of 
bombs,  &c. 

hat  of  the 
tinual  inter- 
ous  or  cop- 
3U8  stamps,) 
a  shilling, 
►ntreal,  ishy 
Index;)  but 
immended  to 
m  Quebec, 
passes  about 
rer  Richelieu, 
hn*s  and  So- 


rei,  iu  consequence  of  its  running  by  those  towns.    Se- 
veral mountains  are  in  sight,  as  Bcloeil,  Boucherville,  &c. 

The  Rapids  may  be  regarded  as  a  specimen,  on  a  small 
scale,  of  the  numerous  rapids  in  the  St.  Lawrence, 
which  will  hereafter  excite  the  interest,  if  not  the  appre- 
hension of  the  stranger.  The  bed  of  the  Richelieu  has  a 
rapid  descent  in  several  places,  where  it  comes  immedi- 
ately under  observation,  and  becomes  so  shallow  as  to  be 
passable  for  the  flattest  boats  only  during  the  floods.  In 
the  summer,  it  is  generally  only  a  few  inches  deep,  and 
the  surface  broken  by  numerous  stones  of  all  sizes,  and 
here  and  there  by  little  water  falls  near  the  shore.  At 
the  same  time  the  banks  are  lo%v  and  flat ;  the  houses  of 
one  floor,  whitewashed,  an«l  built  at  nearly  equal  distances, 
facing  the  river;  and,  in  short,  the  general  character 
of  a  scene  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  imagined  from  a 
view  here,  by  making  allowance  for  its  size  and  fertility. 

The  inhabitants,  out  of  the  town,  immediately  assume 
the  aspect  of  foreigners,  in  dress,  Siountenance,  man- 
ners, customs,  and  language.  Their  fashions  are  an- 
tique, and  many  of  them  have  not  been  changed  for  ages : 
the  men  wear  the  Canadian  jacket,  cap,  or  hat,  red  sash, 
and  moccasin  of  rough  leather.  The  women  work  labo- 
riously in  the  field,  and  all  of  them  speak  French,  gene- 
rally without  knowing  a  word  of  any  other  language. 
The  farms  will  be  observed,  laid  out  in  strips  of  1  or  200 
acres,  flat,  broad,  and  1,  2,  or  even  3  miles  in  length ; 
and  the  system  of  farming  is  extremely  bad,  as  will  be 
discovered  at  once,  by  the  acres  that  are  consigned  to  the 
useless  and  destructive  little  Canada  Thistle.  There  is 
no  such  thing  known  here  as  the  doctrine  of  a  rotation 
of  crops,  and  land  is  recovered  to  fertility  by  lying  fallow, 
except  that  lately  the  use  of  manure  has  begun  to  be 
resorted  to  in  a  small  degree.  The  horses  are  of  a  small 
breed,  well  kiiown  in  the  northern  states,  by  the  name  of 
the  country.  They  are  small  and  slow,  but  powerful  and 
hardy.  Many  of  them  are  driven  across  the  line,  and 
lai^  horses  introduced  into  the  towns  in  return.  The 
value  of  a  common  Canadian  horse  is  about  {$40 ;  and  of 
a  good  one,  $6U. 

There  is  very  little  to  be  seen  on  this  road  to  interest 
the  traveller,  except  the  novelty  of  what  he  observes. 

R2 


190 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  landscape  is  unvarying :  the  inhabitants  as  ivell  as 
the  soil  are  poor,  and  there  is  nothing  that  deserves  the 
name  even  (Mf  a  village.  We  pass  a  house  now  and  then, 
dignified  by  a  tall  pole  or  mast  raised  in  front  of  it,  which 
18  a  singular  mark  of  distinction  conceded  to  officers  of 
militia,  and  usually  adopted  by  those  of  the  lowest  grades. 
The  people  appear  very  happy,  and  have  healthy  coun- 
tenances, inclining  to  round  faces,  and  thick  lips.  Many 
of  them  show  the  upper  front  teeth  when  silent ;  and 
their  aspect,  although  oftentimes  shrewd,  denotes  a  want 
of  education,  which  is  the  real  cause  of  the  backward 
condition  of  society  in  Canada.  They  are  all  Catholics ; 
and  the  churches  seen  here  and  there  upon  the  road,  are 
all  devoted  to  the  service  of  the  Romish  church.  One 
large  church,  lately  built  of  gray  stone,  will  be  seen  on 
the  south  side  of  the  road. 

.  t  The  Half  Wat  House 

is  dirty  and  disagreeable ;  but  the  inhabitants  understand 
English,  and  it  is  generally  stopped  at  only  a  few 
minutes.  The  land  is  divided  in  some  places  by  ditches 
round  the  farms ;  and  there  are  the  channels  of  several 
small  streams  which  cross  the  road.  One  of  these  is 
passed  on  a  bridge,  just  east  of  the  stopping  place. 
<■  About  h  a  mile  beyond,  are  some  barracks  built  for 
troops,  during  the  late  war.  One  of  the  most  singular 
traits  in  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  Canadians, 
is  building  the  oven  not  only  out  of  doors,  like  the  Dutch, 
but  directly  over  the  pig  sty. 

The  mountain  from  which  the  city  of  Montreal  derived 
its  name,  and  which  rises  immediately  behind  it,  may  be 
discovered  at  a  great  distance ;  and  the  house  of  Mr.  Mc 
Tavish  may  be  perceived,  like  a  white  spot,  a  little  dis* 
tance  up  its  side. 

Some  time  before  reaching  the  river,  you  pass  an  ex- 
tensive  common,  lying  on  the  south  side  of  the  road,  and 
then  enter  the  town  of  ^ 


Laprairie. 


t**-:' 
\ 


Hotchkiss*s  inn,  near  the  river,  kept  by  a  man  from  the 
UnitjBd  States. 


y  TRAVELLER. 


191 


rom  the 


This  is  ft  large  town,  from  which  a  steam  boat  crosses 
three  times  a  day,  to  Montreal,  9  miles.  It  is  built  after 
the  Canadian  fashion ;  and  very  few  of  the  inhubitants 
spealc  English.  The  streets  are  narrow,  the  houses  low, 
and  nothing  is  to  be  seen  worthy  of  jMirticiilar  notice, 
excepting  a  nunnery  and  the  church,  both  which  may 
seem  curious  to  those  who  are  not  familiar  with  Catholic 
countries ;  though  of  inferior  interest  to  those  of  Mon- 
treal  and  Quebec.  The  nuns  possess  a  large  tract  of  land, 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall :  and  they  devote  their  time  to  the  care  of 
the  sick,  and  the  education  of  girl'^>  «  ui*; 

The  view  of  Montreaf  from  the  wharf  is  uninterrupted. 
The  city  is  distinguished  at  the  distance  of  nine  miles,  by 
its  thick  mass  of  buildings,  roofed  with  shbc  -^  of  tin,  and 
overtopped  by  church  spires,  shining  with  the  8ai;;;«%  metal. 
Behind  it  rises  a  fine  mountain,  spotted  with  orchards  ;  on 
the  right,  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  the  fortified  island 
of  St.  Helen ;  and  on  the  left,  that  of  the  Nuns,  and 
several  smaller  ones  at  a  distance,  through  which  are  seen 
the  sheets  of  white  foam  caused  by  the  rapids.  The 
shores  are  low  and  perfectly  flat  in  every  direction  \  which, 
with  the  wide  expanse  of  water,  gives  an  aspeci  of  tire- 
some monotony  and  extension  to  the  scene.  At  a  great 
distance  up,  are  seen  Isle  Heron  and  others.  Uniformity 
will  be  found  characteristic  of  almost  the  whole  voyage 
to  Quebec. 

The  current  of  the  river  will  appear  extremely  rapid, 
particularly  near  those  parts  where  the  surface  is  broken 
by  rocks ;  but  the  steam  boats  are  supplied  with  engines 
comparatively  powerful*  and  are  able  to  eJBect  the  pas- 
sage with  facility  and  in  safety.  An  hour  is  generally 
spent  in  going,  and  from  1}  to  3  in  returning.  It  is  im- 
possible, however,  for  any  boat  to  go  through  the  current 
without  being  borne  rapidly  down  in  some  places ;  and 
there  is  apart  of  the  river  near  the  middle,  where  the 
water  is  clear,  and  the  rocks  are  easily  seen  on  the  bot- 
tom, as  the  boats  glide  on  above  them.  In  returning,  the 
boat  sometimes  parses  between  two  rocks,  near  the  rapids, 
that  on  the  east  being  under  water.  Here  the  surface  is 
much  agitated,  and  sometimes  throws  the  water  on  deck 
"-without  any  danger.  .  ^ 


idi 


TUB  NOUTHEUN 


A  particular  description  or  the  various  objects  in  Mon- 
treal and  the  vicinity,  will  be  postponed  for  the  present ; 
mud  it  is  necessary  here,  to  mention  only  the  more  pro- 
minent objects  which  strike  the  eye  on  the  approach. 

A  large  tinned  roof  on  the  left,  with  a  small  steeple, 
belongs  to  the  convent  of  Gray  Nuns ;  further  back  is 
the  Recolet  church;  then  the  French  Parish  church, 
near  which  will  hereafter  be  seen  the  five  towers  of  the 
Great  cathedral.  The  English  Episcopal  church  has  a 
tall  pyramidal  spire ;  and  that  which  rises  farther  to  the 
right,  and  near  the  shore,  is  the  church  of  Bon-secours. 
From  some  places  may  be  seen  the  top  of  Nelaon*s  monu- 
ment, with  several  other  remarkable  objects,  particularly 
the  barracks,  on  the  right,  behind  the  remnant  of  the  old 
city  wall. 


iiij 


MONTREAL. 


lans.  Masonic  Hall,*  at  the  north  end  of  the  city,  with 
a  piazza  over  the  bank ;  Goodenough*s,  St.  Paul-street ; 
Mansion  House,  do.  These  are  all  large  houses,  and 
porters  will  be  found  on  the  shore  belonging  to  each,  who 
will  convey  the  luggage,  and  show  the  way. 

The  landing  place  is  unpleasant,  and  the  stranger  may 
be  struck  with  the  narrowness  of  Uie  streets,  the  lowness, 
and  heavy  aspect  of  the  houses,  which  are  of  stone  or 
plastered  to  resemble  it :  but  all  this  is  in  conformity  with 
the  fashion  of  the  country  ;  and  Montreal  contains  many 
fine  buildings  and  other  objects  worthy  of  notice,  together 
with  a  vicinity  which  in  the  warm  season  of  the  year  is 
truly  delightful. 

Those  who  remain  but  a  short  time  in  this  city,  may 
easily  pay  a  hasty  visit  to  the  principal  objects  of  curiosi- 


*  The  Masonic  Hall  is  the  most  expensive  hotel  in  Montreal. 
It  is  kept  by  Mr.  Riasco,  an  Italian,  and  has  a  restaurant  in  the 
French  fashion,  where  the  stranger  may  select  his  dinner 
from  a  Ions  bill  of  fare.  The  highest  rate  of  board,  including 
private  parlour,  &c.  is  1/.  5s.  per  day.  The  main  building  i> 
4  stories  high,  and  the  two  win^s  3. 


TRAVELLER.   "*' 


193 


ty  ;  and  are  recommended  to  take  a  walk  through  the  two 
principal  streets,  and  to  notice  the  following  buildings  and 
places. 

At  the  north  end  of  St.  PaulVstreet  are  the  Barracks. 
Just  abo?e  the  Masonic  Hall,  is  the  French  church  of 
Bon-secours,  which,  like  the  other  Canadian  religious 
buildings  generally,  is  formed  much  on  the  plan  of  those 
in  France.  The  roofs  are,  howeTcr,  generally  covered 
with  tin,  which  is  not  much  used  in  other  countries. 
This  is  near  the  northern  limit  of  Montreal,  beyond 
which  begins  the  Quebec  suburb. 


Masonic  Hall, 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  street. 

Theatrb, 
a^oining  the  Masonic  Hall. 


■••^f;-'/*lv'*   it-.* 


>«• 


Market  Place  and  Nelson's  Monument,  (Onihirighi,) 

Then  follows  a  double  row  of  shops.  On  the  east  side 
are  several,  which  show  articles  of  Indian  manufacture 
for  sale.  These,  however,  had  better  be  bought  at  the 
nunneries,  if  it  is  intended  to  visit  them. 

The  Black  Nuns*  Garden,  Convent,  and  Chapel, 

are  on  the  west  side  of  the  street.  The  wall  is  very  high. 
The  porter  at  the  gate  will  give  admission  and  directions, 
but  in  French.  Visiters  are  expected  to  purchase  a  few 
articles  of  nuns',  or  Indian  manufacture.  It  is  most 
agreeable  to  go  in  parties. 

The  New  Cathedral  and  Old  Parish  Church    ^^ 

are  close  by :  a  short  street  leads  to  them,  west.  * 

Passing  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  by  stores  and  shops, 
Goodenouoh's  Hotel  is  on  the  west  side,  in  a  court 

yard* — Further  on,  a  street  on  the  opposite  side  briogt 

you  in  sight  of  the 


194 


THE  NORTHERN 
Grat  Nuns*  Convent. 


A  large  stone  building,  partly  new»  about  410  feet  iu 
length. 

Mansion  House  Hotel,  St.  Paurs-street,  below  an 
open  square.  ,      , 

Seminary.*  *    f  ; 


College,  t 


.1:  i     I 


(The  Canal  to  Lachine  begins  on  the  river  shore, 
nearly  against  here.) 


f  The  Seminary  (La  Seminaire)  is  an  antique  buildii^, 
and  contains  a  Catholic  library  of  about  6000  volumei ; 
but  access  to  it  is  not  very  easily  obtained.  The  Colleee  in 
this  cit^  was  built  by  money  supplied  from  the  funds  of  this 
institution, 
t  The  College  is  a  Iar{];e  building  of  stone,  three  stories  hi?b, 
erected  in  1819  out  of  the  funds  of  the  <<  Seminary."  It  has 
a  front  of  about  150  feet,  with  wings  projecting  in  front  and 
rear,  which  make  the  whole  leneth  about  220  feet.  It  has  a 
spacious  yard  on  the  south  side,  for  a  play  ground,  succeeded 
by  a  fine  gparden ;  and  a  little  brook  passes  m  the  rear,  which 
is  made  very  uDeful.  In  order  to  guard  against  fire,  there  is 
scarcely  any  wood  used  in  the  construction ;  and  large  iron 
doors  are  hung  in  the  passages  in  such  a  manner  that  by  shut- 
ting them  the  whole  buildii^  may  be  divided  into  three  parts, 
each  fire-proof. 

It  contains  about  300  students,  who  are  divided  into  8  classes, 
to  each  of  which  is  devoted  a  year,  with  the  exception  of  the 
two  last,  which  occupy  but  6  months  apiece,  so  that  the  whole 
course  of  instruction  is  finished  in  7  years.  Many  of  the 
pupils,  however,  leave  the  institution  oefore  completing  the 
course. 

The  Chapel  is  in  the  south  wing ;  and  the  rest  of  the  build- 
ing is  divided  into  recitation  rooms,  and  bed  rooms,  the  former 
or  which  are  hung  with  maps  and  religiouH  pictures,  and  the 
latter  suppUed  wiu  crosses  and  fonts.    Every  thing  is  very 

Slain  in  tne  furniture.  The  price  of  instruction  is  about  eighty 
ollars  per  jear,  and  some  of  the  pupils  have  allowances  made 
them ;  particularly  those  designed  for  the  Church,  who  assist  in 
instruction  by  day,  and  study  oy  night.  There  is  apreparatory 
School  connected  with  the  College.  One  of  the  instntcter": 
alwaTs  oversees  the  bovs  in  their  recreations. 


TUAVELLEft. 


195 


Returning;  to  the  square,  and  entering  another  princi' 
pal  street  running  parallel  to  St.  Paul's,  you  pass  nume- 
rous respectable  and  some  elegant  dwellings,  leaving  the 
Parish  Church  and  the  new  Cathedral  on  the  east. 


The  Weslbtan  Chapel.  . 

The  American  Conorboational,  and  the  English 
Episcofal  Churches  are  passed  in  this  side  of  the  town. 

The  Court  House  . 

19  large,  but  old ;  and  in  the  rear  of  it  is 

The  Parade, 

a  handsome  piece  of  ground,  with  a  walk,  where  the 
troops  are  drilled  every  morning,  generally  at  10  oV  vV. 
There  is  commonly  but  a  small  number  of  soldiers  ii  the 
city,  during  peace;  and  in  1825,  a  sinele  regiment 
garrisoned  Montreal  and  the  other  posts  in  the  neighbour- 
hood towards  the  United  States. 

The  British  and  Canadian  School  Society  established 
schools  on  the  British  system  in  Montreal,  in  Sept.  1!^?2. 
In  Sept.  1825,  there  had  been  admitted  1706  boys,  and 
444  girls,  most  of  whom  were  of  the  poorer  class.  It  is 
supported  by  voluntary  subscriptions.  Nine  hundred 
pounds,  the  remainder  of  a  large  sum  collected  in  Eng- 
land, for  the  instruction  of  Indians  not  otherwise  instruct- 
ed, is  in  the  hands  of  this  society,  to  be  hi  >"a(ler  devoted 
to  that  object. 

There  is  a  Lancasterian  School  of  300  or  400  scholars, 
ivhere  some  of  the  most  influential  Canadians,  Catholics, 
having  become  aware  of  the  value  of  education,  have 
placed  themselves  on  the  commiitud.  There  is  an  Epis- 
copal School  on  Bell's  system. 

The  priests  in  Canada  have  begun  to  educate  in  self 
defence.  The  schools  provided  for  by  government,  are 
restricted  to  masters  of  the  English  church ;  and  a  con* 
siderable  number  of  school  houses  have  been  erected,  but 
almost  confined  to  the  townships.  .  m 


196  THE  NORTHERN 

Island  of  St.  Helen,  or  Grant^s  Island. 

This  has  recently  been  purchased  by  the  British  govern^ 
ment,  for  a  military  position  and  depot.  It  is  principally 
covered  with  trees ;  but  has  a  beautiful  garden  behind  the 
quarters  of  the  officers  ;  and  a  fine  road  winding  round 
from  the  landing  place,  on  the  south  end,  (where  are  some 
remains  of  old  works,  and  a  new  battery,)  to  a  rocky 
eminence  over  the  arsenal,  which  is  opposite  the  northern 
quarter  of  the  town.  This  rock  is  about  eleven  feet 
higher  than  the  most  elevated  parts  of  the  city  ;  and  the 
view  from  it  is  handsome,  with  a  wild  ravine  just  below. 

The  arsenal  and  store  houses  form  three  buildings,  tvith 
a  narrow  yard  between  them,  about  135  feet  in  length. 
The  batteries  range  on  the  river  and  town,  and  are  fiu* 
nished  with  neat  barracks,  a  magazine,  &c. 

The  Mountain  OF  Montreal 

offers  an  extensive  and  delightful  view,  and  should  by  no 
.  means  be  forgotten  by  those  who  have  an  opportunity  to 
undertake  the  excursion.  It  is  better  calculated  to  afford 
an  idea  of  the  country,  as  well  as  to  delight  the  eye,  than 
any  other  excursion  which  can  be  made.  Yet  it  is  recom* 
mended,  if  the  traveller  stays  long  enough,  to  take  a  ride 
or  two  io  different  directions,  after  having  visited  this 
favourite  spot. 

There  are  three  ways  of  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
mountain :  on  foot,  by  an  intricate  route  from  the  southern 
part  of  the  city ;  on  horsebackf  or  in  a  carriage,  to  the 
ridge ;  or  round  the  north  end  to  the  rear.  There  is  also 
a  foot  path  up  the  north  en^d.  A  private  road  turns  off 
from  the  southern  road  on  the  ridge,  passing  through  a 
gate.  '^ 

It  is  intended  to  erect  a  handsome  building  on  the  sum- 
mit, and  to  clear  away  the  trees ;  and  a  subscription  has 
been  opened  for  the  purpose.  At  present,  the  only  good 
point  of  view  is  from  a  rock  above  McTavish's  house, 
whence  a  very  steep  path  leads  directly  down. 

The  country  spread  out  to  view  on  arriving  at  this  com- 
manding  height,  is  a  plain  of  such  vast  extent  as  to  appear 
in  many  directions  quite  boundless.    In  fact,  it  stretches 


JD. 

h  govern- 
rincipally 
lehind  the 
ing  round 
are  some 
9  a  rocky 
I  northern 
even  feet 
;  and  the 
St  below, 
ings,  with 
in  length, 
d  are  fur- 


!#■ 


ould  by  no 
rtunity  to 
d  to  afford 
i  eye,  than 
t  is  recom* 
take  a  ride 
risited  this 

imit  of  the 
le  southern 
ig-e,  to  the 
here  is  also 
id  turns  off 
;  through  u 

)n  the  sum- 
sription  has 
B  only  good 
sh's  house, 


Bit  this  con)' 
IS  to  appear 
it  stretches 


/^     ■    .  Jfjtrjfv 


much 
Quebe 
The 
tain,  a! 
which 

litioni 
1  Jiiay  of 

high  pt 
,  modem 
^jfiver,  g 

hind  a 

suburbs 

ofer  it  i 

plaihco 

Tided  ii 

In  the 

Island ; 

steeple  i 

Quebec i 

works,  s 

Lawrenc 

S.  S. 

nearlj  o 

guishabh 

Nun3»  F 

miles  wi( 

are  St.  . 

Distant  i 

andyPoin 
opposite 
with  a  t» 
JV.  Ea 
cultivatec 
distinguis 
he  seen, < 

To  Lac 

pleasante 


TRAVELLER. 


197 


i 


much  farther  thftn  woull  be  imagined ;  for  all  the  way  to 
Quebec,  the  river's  bankb  present  the  same  appearance. 
The  spectator  faces  the  east.    The  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, almost  precipitous,  is  thickly  covered  with  trees, 
which  gflOfi  give  place  below  to  a  smooth  aescent,  decli- 
ning iov^  base,  chiefly  devoted  to  pasturage,  on  the  ele- 
4lition  oriNrhich  stands  McTavish's  house.  A  beautiful  dis- 
{llaT  of  cultivated  fields  succeeds  on  the  level,  divided  by 
high  palings,^ai^d  scattered  with  a  few  houses.    Below  a 
,  moderate  descent,  which  appears  like  an  old  bank  of  the 
driver,  gardens  and  dwellings  begin  to  increase ;  and  be- 
hind a  succeeding  one,  of  a  similar  description,  are 
suburbs. 

'  float,  on  the  horizon,  is  Boucherville  Mountain ;  and 
oter  it  is  seen  more  indistinctly,  Beloeil  Mountain.  The 
plaiti  country  between  the  Sorel  and  Sl.wawrence  is  di- 
vided into  innumerable  fields,  with  scattlpring  houses. 
In  the  same  direction  is  seen  St.  HelenVi,  or  Grant's 
Island ;  and  in  a  direction  with  the  south  end  of  it^  the 
steeple  of  Bon-secour's  church.  North  of  this  are  the 
Quebec  suburbs,  beginning  near  the  barracks,  the  water- 
works, and  baths.  Nearer,  are  seen  St.  Louis  and  St. 
Lawrence  suburbs. 

8.  S,  Eastf  on  the  opposite  shore,  La  Prairie ;  and 
nearly  over  it,  the  site  of  St.  John's,  which  is  not  distin- 
guishable. In  a  range  with  them,  is  Nuns'  Island,  and 
Nuns'  Farm,  the  latter  on  this  shore.  The  river  is  3| 
miles  wide.  The  suburbs  on  the  south  side  of  the  city, 
are  St.  Anteine,  Rieolet,  St.  Anne's,  and  St.  Joseph's. 
Distant  mountains. 

JV*or<ii(.  Bout  de  I'IsIe,  the  extremity  of  Montreal  Isl- 
and, Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  the  Village  of  Boucherville ; 
opposite  which  is  Longueil,  and  further  down,  Varennes, 
with  a  two-steepled  church. 

•V.  East,  the  view  is  boundless,  with  a  succession  of 
cultivated  fields,  which  in  the  distance  become  quite  un- 
distinguishable.  The  same  appearance,  it  will  hereafter 
be  seen,  extends  along  the  river's  banks  quite  to  Quebec. 

Other  Excursions. 

To  Lachike,  9  tniles,  or  3  leagues.  The  river  road 
pleasantest :  giving  a  view  of  the  Rapids,  Nuns'  and  Heron 


'  jiioktr 


idS 


THE  NORTHERN 


Islands,  the  Indian  village  of  Caughnawaga  opposite,  and 
crossing  the  Lachine  Canal,  At  Lachine  is  a  house  kept 
by  an  American,  who  has  a  Canadian  wife.  Crystals  of 
axenite  (carb.  lime)  were  found  in  excavating  the  canal. 
The  pebbles  along  the  shore  are  the  fragments  of  granite, 
while  the  black,  or  deep  purple  rocks  which  form  the 
channel  are  lime  stone,  lying  in  strata  nearly  horizontal. 

Road  round  the  vIountain.  The  road  near  the 
north  end  of  the  mountain  is  ornamented  with  many 
beautiful  seats,  and  there  are  also  some  extensive  manu- 
factories.   Behind  it  is  a  fine  extent  of  cultivated  ground. 

To  Point  aux  Trembles  and  Bout  de  Piste. 

The  population  of  Montreal,  by  a  census  taken  in  1825, 
was  nearly  24,000  j  and  4  or  500  greater  than  that  of 
Quebec. 

The  southern  road  to  the  Mountain,  which  crosses  it 
at  the  less  elevated  part  of  the  ridge,  near  the  middle, 
leads  through  St.  Joseph's  suburbs,  aud  afterward  passes 
a  number  of  fine  country  seats.  The  most  remarkable 
are  those  of  Mr.  McGillivray,  and  the  late  Mr.  Gregory, 
members  of  the  old  North- West  Company,  which  has 
lately  been  converted  into  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
It  engrossed  the  Indian  trade  for  a  vast  distance  up  the 
lakes,  and  enriched  many  individuals,  whose  residences 
add  materially  to  the  appearance  of  the  city  and  its  envi- 
rons. 

The  Priests'  Farm  is  passed  on  the  left,  near  the  base 
of  the  mountain,  and  is  a  large  tract  of  land,  with  an  old 
building  in  the  ancient  European  style,  preserving  many 
of  the  features  of  feudal  days,  with  its  projecting  square 
towers,  small  windows,  pointed  roofs,  and  weather-beaten 
walls.  The  barns  connected  with  it  are  very  spacious, 
and  seem  capable  of  containing  a  large  part  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  farm.  The  only  wonder  seems  to  be  what  a 
few  old  men  can  do  with  such  vast  stores,  as  well  as  with 
their  receipts  from  various  other  quarters. 

The  whole  island  of  Montreal  is  a  Seigniory,  in  which 
the  monks  of  Ricolet,  as  Seigniors,  have  the  right  of  a 
tax  on  every  farm,  on  every  purchase  and  sale  of  real  es- 
tate, and  many  other  privileges,  vested  in  them  by  the 
king  of  France  on  the  first  settlement  of  the  place.  Cir- 
cumstances have  conspired  to  reduce  and  destroy  man^ 


which 
rht  of  ft 
real  es- 

by  the 

.    Cir- 

V  many 


TRAVELLER. 


199 


of  these  privileges,  so  that  the  annual  income  of  the 
priestSi  from  this  rich  and  valuable  Seigniory,  is  very  tri- 
vial, in  comparison  with  its  extent  and  fertility. 

The  peculiar  form  of  the  land  in  the  rear  of  the  city, 
fits  it  in  a  remarkable  manner  for  the  beautiful  display  of 
fine  houses  and  ornamental  grounds.  A  long  and  regular 
bank  extends  for  several  miles  on  the  right  hand,  that 
has  every  appearance  of  an  old  shore  to  the  river,  which 
may  be  supposed  to  have  gradually  changed  and  deepened 
its  channel,  leaving  this  and  several  other  similar  banks 
which  rise  behind  each  other  in  natural  terraces,  and  add 
many  varieties  to  the  neighbouring  country,  which  would 
be  otherwise  quite  monotonous. 

There  is  a  handsome  view  of  the  plain,  city,  and  river, 
from  the  road  on  the  mountain,  wl  ich  is  improved  ten- 
fold by  turning  off  towards  the  norili  by  a  private  path, 
and  going  half  a  mile  to  the  SummU.  This  road  has  been 
hinted  at  before,  and  the  description  of  the  view  already 
given. 

It  is  proposed  to  erect  a  building  there  for  the  accom- 
modation of  visiters,  and  to  improve  the  path  so  that  it 
may  be  accessible  for  carriages ;  and  if  this  is  performed, 
the  pleasure  of  the  excursion  will  be  much  increased. 

Col.  Allen,  with  his  detachment  for  the  surprise  of 
Montreal,  in  1776,  crossed  the  river  from  Longueil ;  but 
Major  Brown,  not  being  able  to  land  above  the  city  as 
was  intended,  the  former  was  taken  prisoner  by  Gov. 
Carleton,  after  a  sharp  engagement,  loaded  with  irons, 
and  sent  to  England.  Col.  Warner  afterwards  erected 
batteries  on  the  shore  at  Longueil,  by  which  he  drove 
back  the  governor  when  he  attempted  to  land  on  his  way 
to  relieve  St.  John^s. 


200 


THE  NORTHERN 


•<•  <f 


ROUTE  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  NIAGARA. 
(See  Index,  "  Rmites.^) 

ROUTE  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 
Road  to  Quebec. 

Notwithstanding  the  common  prejudices  against  tra- 
velling by  land  in  Canada,  which  are  entertained  by  many 
persons  not  acquainted  with  the  country,  it  is  recommend- 
ed to  those  who  may  find  it  convenient,  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  performing  a  part  of  the  journey  in  this  man- 
ner, either  going  or  returning. 

The  country  is  indeed  a  dead  level,  but  it  is  entirely  re<* 
duced  to  cultivation,  thickly  populated,  and  blessed  with 
good  roads.  The  way  lies  along  the  very  margin  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  passing  an  almost  uninterrupted  succession 
of  dwellings,  and  supplied  with  many  comfortable,  and 
some  good  inns,  which  will  be  particularly  mentioned. 

As  the  strength  of  the  current  makes  the  passage  of 
the  steam  boats  up  the  river  about  12  hours  longer  than 
that  down,  it  would  on  this  account  be  better  to  return 
by  land ;  and  this  course  would  certainly  be  recommend- 
ed, but  for  the  greater  difficulty  of  obtaining  good  car- 
riages in  Quebec.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  regular  coaches 
will  ere  long  be  established  to  run  between  the  two  cities ; 
for  at  present,  it  is  necessary  to  hire  a  caleche,  or  a  stage 
coach,  at  a  pretty  high  price.  At  Three  Rivers,  (Trois 
Rivieres,)  60  miles,  the  traveller  may  dismiss  his  carriage, 
and  enter  the  steam  boat&,  which  regularly  stop  there  up 
and  down. 


Steam  Boat  to  Quebec. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  steam  boat,  you  pass  under 
the  fort  on  St.  Helen's  Island,  the  steeples  and  cupolas  of 
the  city  being  seen  nearly  in  the  following  order,  begin- 


TRAVELLER. 


m 


uing  at  the  south  end :  Gray  Nuns*,  Ricolet  Church, 
Black  Nuns',  Parish  Church,  Episcopal  Church,  Nelson's 
Monument,  Bon-secour  Church.  Near  the  last,  on  the 
shore,  is  the  Masonic  Hotel,  then  the  Barracks,  Water- 
works, and  Baths,  the  beginning  of  the  Quebec  suburbs, 
the  residences  of  Judge  Reed  and  Mr.  Malson,  with  ter- 
raced gardens  towards  the  ri?er,  &c.  A  little  below  is 
Malson's  Brewery,  and  Sir  John  Johnson's  residence,  (a 
grandson  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  for  whom  see  Battle  of 
Lake  George,  &c.)  The  house  is  of  brick,  with  a 
piazza. 

The  Rapids  of  St.  Mart  are  between  the  island  and 
these  last  mentioned  objects,  and  run  with  such  rapidity 
that  steam  boats  are  sometimes  obliged  to  be  drawn  up 
by  cattle  a  little  distance. 

LoNGUEiL,  just  below  St.  Helen's. 

LoNGUE  PoiNTE,  6  milcs  (2  leagues)  from  Montreal. 

Vercheres,  on  the  east  side. 

Varennes  has  a  church  with  double  spire. 

PoiNTE  Aux  Trembles,  9  miles,  (3  leagues.)  Here  is  a 
nunnery,  in  which  is  a  pretty  large  school  for  girls. 
There  are  two  good  inns  in  the  place. 

Bout  de  L'Isle.    Here  is  no  village,  but  only  a  ferry. 

Contrec(eur,  on  the  east. 

Repentignt,  a  pretty  village. 

At  this  place  it  is  recommended  to  the  traveller  by 
land,  to  make  a  deviation  from  the  direct  road  along 
the  river,  if  he  finds  it  convenient,  to  see  the  delightful 
country  between  it  and  the  town  of  Assomption.  There 
is  a  beautiful  road  on  each  bank,  varied  with  houses  and 
trees.    Return  so  as  to  strike  the  road  near  St.  Sulpice. 

St.  Sulpice,  24  miles  (8  leagues)  from  Montreal. 

La  M orate. 

Berthier.  Here  is  an  excellent  inn,  kept  by  a  man 
from  the  United  States,  though  his  wife  is  a  Canadian. 

Machiche  is  a  pretty  town,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Riviere 
du  Loup,  and  has  a  very  neat  and  comfortable  inn,  of 
the  best  Canadian  stamp,  and  famous  for  many  miles 
round.  Many  French  customs  are  still  preserved  by  the 
unmixed  inhabitants  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  some  of  which 
are  agreeable  and  interesting.    At  many  of  the  inns,  the 

S2 


I 


) 


202 


THE  NORTHERN 


traveller  will  receive  the  most  kind  and  hospitable  atten- 
tions, and  will  find  great  gratification  in  observing  the 
handsome  flower  gardens,  as  well  as  the  neat  arrangement 
of  the  furniture.  At  this  house  is  a  handsome  coilectioa 
of  green-house  plants. 

There  is  very  little  variety  to  be  discovered  in  the 
natural  surface  of  the  ground,  but  the  journey  through 
this  region  presents  almost  an  unvarying  scene  of  culti- 
vation and  fertility.  For  a  great  part  of  the  distance, 
there  is  a  narrow  strip  of  corn  or  potatoes  between  the 
road  and  the  river's  bank,  to  correspond  with  the  fields 
which  stretch  off  to  such  a  distance  on  the  other  hand ; 
and  the  variety  of  crops,  and  the  occasional  rows  and 
clumps  of  trees,  remove,  in  a  good  degree,  the  natural 
sameness  of  the  landscape.  .  \ 

Navigation  and  Trade  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  &c. 

Steam  boats  are  of  the  utmost  importance  on  this  great 
river,  for  they  contribute  extremely  to  the  convenience 
and  expedition  of  travelling,  and  render  most  valuable  as- 
sistance to  commerce.  In  1825,  there  were  seven  steam 
boats  constantly  employed  between  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, most  of  them  fitted  to  accommodate  passengers,  as 
well  as  to  carry  freight,  and  all  provided  with  powerful 
engines.  The  Hercules,  however,  which  is  devoted  ex- 
clusively to  towing  vessels,  exceeds  in  power  all  the  others, 
and  may  usually  be  met  with  in  some  part  of  the  river, 
sometimes  with  three  or  four  large  brigs  or  schooners, 
fully  laden,  lashed  on  all  sides  of  her,  yet  moving  along 
with  considerable  velocity.  The  principal  article  of  export 
from  Canada  is  lumber,  a  great  deal  of  which  is  carried  to 
Quebec  in  immense  rafts,  and  then  shipped  for  England. 
These  rafts  have  usually  a  great  number  of  sails  to  hoist 
in  a  fair  wind,  with  huts  to  shelter  the  men  from  the 
weather,  so  that  they  have  a  very  singular  appearance, 
and  at  a  distance,  look  like  a  fleet  of  sail  boats. 

The  French  Canadians,  notwithstanding  the  common 
prejudices  against  them,  appear,  on  acquaintance,  to  be 
an  intelligent  people.  They  certainly  are  amiable,  cheer- 
ful, and  gay,  and  their  backwardness  in  improvements  is 


TRAVELLER. 


803 


altributable  to  the  system  under  which  they  live.  They 
are  generally  brought  up  in  great  ignorance,  and  they  are 
taught  to  dislike  and  avoid  not  only  the  Protestant  princi- 
ples, but  Protestant?  themselves.  The  author  has  the 
word  of  one  of  their  own  priests  for  stating,  that  not 
more  than  one-sixth  of  the  population  are  ever  taught  to 
read  or  write.  In  Mew-England,  as  is  well  known,  the 
law  provides  for  the  instruction  of  every  child,  without 
exception  ;  and  every  child  is  actually  instructed.  Books 
and  newspapers,  therefore,  lose  their  effect  as  well  as  their 
value  among  these  people.  The  British  government  have 
encouraged  schools  here,  but  until  lately,  almost  without 
success.  Among  those  regions  where  English  and  Scotch 
have  settled,  instruction  is  gaining  ground ;  and  in  Mon* 
treal,  the  public  schools  are  rising  in  importance  :  but  it  is 
to  be  feared  that  the  Catholic  priests  will  long  continue  to 
oppose  the  extension  of  real  knowledge,  and  that  while 
they  retain  their  influence,  the  character  of  the  people  will 
remain  depressed. 

if  the  value  of  land  were  once  secured  by  a  good  sub- 
stitute for  the  baronial  tenures,  and  raised  by  the  free  ex* 
portation  of  grain ;  if  the  inhabitants  were  taught  to 
know,  and  set  at  liberty  to  think  like  men,  the  Canadians 
would  not  long  be  considered  destitute  of  understanding 
or  of  ingenuity.  As  circumstances  are,  Canada  will  long 
be  an  agreeable  country  to  travellers  from  "the  States,** 
because  they  will  find  so  much  reason  to  congratulate 
themselves  on  the  superior  ^favours  with  which  Provi- 
dence has  blessed  them  in  the  state  of  their  society  at 
home. 

In  1825,  there  were  many  signs  of  prosperity  exhibited 
by  the  farmers  between  Montreal  and  Three  Rivers,  in 
the  extension  or  erection  of  buildings.  In  that  tract  of 
country  is  usually  to  be  seen  about  half  an  acre  of  Indian 
corn,  which  will  furnish  18  or  20  bushels;  and  it  is  the 
custom  not  to  build  fences,  the  cattle  being  kept  from  the 
land,  and  fed  on  weeds  until  the  crops  are  ofi*. 

The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  and  are  built  of 
wood  or  stone,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  country. 
Some  of  them  are  formed  of  squared  timbers,  and  even 
of  round  logs ;  but  the  latter  are  usually  employed  for  the 
construction  of  barns  only,  which  are  often  covered  with 


$04 


Tills.  NORTHERN 


thatch.  The  houses  and  barns  are  frequently  composed 
of  several  small  buildings,  erected  at  different  periods, 
according  to  the  capacity  or  necessities  of  the  proprie- 
tors, 

/        '  WILLIAM  HENRY,  OR  SOREL, 

45  miles f  or  15  leagues  from  Montreal, 

This  town,  though  quite  small,  is  one  of  the  principal 
places  between  the  two  capitals.  It  is  on  the  south  side 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sorel,  or  Riche- 
lieu, in  a  very  sandy  situation ;  and  contains  nothing 
worthy  of  notice  except  a  little  old  church,  a  palisadoed 
fort,  and  a  neat  little  square,  at  the  distance  of  a  short 
walk,  surrounded  with  several  pretty  white  houses,  a 
church,  &c.  a  little  in  the  New-England  style.  The 
fences  are  generally  low,  and  afford  the  sight  of  gardens. 

The  flowers  which  abound  in  the  Canadian  gardens  are 
principally  roses,  carnations,  sweet-williams,  candidus, 
monthly  roses,  (blossoming  only  a  part  of  the  year.) 

As  the  steam  boats  usually  stop  here  half  an  hour  or 
more,  there  is  time  enough  to  go  on  shore.  The  popula- 
tion principally  consists  of  disbanded  soldiers,  so  that  the 
dwellings  are  generally  poor,  and  most  of  the  people  speak 
some  dialect  of  English.  The  garrison  contains  only  30 
or  40  men  in  time  of  peace,  and  the  commanding  officer 
has  a  pretty  residence  opposite  the  town,  where  the  fields 
have  a  green  and  fertile  appearance. 

The  Government  House  stands  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  beyond  the  town.  It  is  a  large  red  building,  with 
barracks  near  it.  The  boat  turns  round  on  leaving  Sorel, 
and  returns  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  distant  land  begin- 
ning to  have  some  elevation. 

On  the  opposite  point.  Gen.  Montgomery  erected  bat- 
teries on  taking  the  place,  in  1776,  and  prepared  rafts  and 
floating  batteries,  which  maintained  an  engagement  with 
the  ships  !n  which  Gov.  Carleton  attempted  to  escape  to 
Quebec,  and  drove  him  back  towards  Montreal.  He  af- 
terwards passed  them  in  an  open  boat  at  night ;  but  his 
vessels  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans. 

Berthier  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St,  Lawrence, 


TRAVELLEH. 


20a 


posed 
triods, 
oprie- 


incipal 
th  side 
Riche- 
nothing 
isadoed 
a  short 
uses,  a 
.      The 
;ardens. 
lens  are 
indidus, 

hour  or 
popula* 
that  the 
)le  speak 
only  30 
ig  officer 
he  fields 


larters  of 
J,  with 
ng  Sorel, 
id  begin- 

cted  bat- 
rafts  and 
lent  with 
escape  to 
He  af- 
but  his 

jawrencC: 


but  out  of  sight,  being  behind  several  low  islands.  Some 
of  the  steam  boats  stop  there  instead  of  at  Sorel.  There  it 
a  ferry  across. 

Lake  St.  Petrr. 

On  entering  this  large  tract  of  water,  the  shores  at  the 
opposite  end  appear  like  mere  lines  upon  the  horizon,  the 
land  being  still  so  flat  near  the  river  as  to  seem  hardly 
sufficient  to  prevent  it  from  overflowing.  A  vessel  ai  the 
opposite  end  appears  like  a  mere  speck,  the  length  of  the 
lake  being  20  miles. 

PoiNTE  Du  Lac,  or  Woodlands,  is  seen  on  the  northern 
shore,  when  nearly  across ;  but  it  is  situated  beyond  the 
lake.  A  ridge  of  high  land  continues  on  the  north,  fol- 
lowing the  course  of  the  river. 

Opposite  Woodlands  is  Nicolet,  9  miles  from  Three 
Rivers.  The  place  is  large,  and  contains  an  English  and 
a  French  church,  together  with  a  nunnery,  and  a  collegei 
founded  by  the  Catholic  bishop  of  Quebec. 

Three  Rivers,  [Trois- Rivieres,]  Hdf  way. 

This  is  the  largest  town  between  Montreal  and  Quebec, 
and  is  96  miles  from  the  former,  and  84  from  the  latter. 
The  streets  are  generally  straight,  and  regularly  built, 
though  narrow ;  and  the  houses,  although  neat,  are  gene- 
rally only  one  or  two  stories  high,  with  windows  in  the 
roofs,  and  being  principally  plastered,  have  rather  a  dark 
aspect,  like  those  of  Montreal.  It  contains  shops  of  va- 
rious sorts,  and  several  inns  of  a  decent  appearance. 

The  Nunnery  is  in  the  east  part  of  the  town,  and  has 
extensive  grounds  connected  with  it. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Convent  has  a  number  of  pictures, 
of  which  the  one  on  the  right  of  the  main  altar  is  the  best : 
Magdalen  weeping.  The  Parish  Church  is  in  the  south 
part  of  the  town.  Two  large  buildings,  formerly  the 
Court  House  and  Jail,  with  the  Nunnery,  are  the  principal 
objects. 

While  the  American  forces  were  on  the  retreat  iVom 
Quebec  in  1775,  Gen.  Sullivan  sent  Gen.  Thompson  down 
from  Sorel  to  attack  this  place.    He  went  down  the  right 


206 


THE  NORTHERN 


bank  of  Lake  St.  Peter,  and  landed  9  miles  from  ihe  town ; 
but  being  discovered  and  misled,  he  found  Gen.  Frozer 
drawn  up  in  order  of  battle,  while  Gen.  Nesbit  was  sent 
to  cut  off  his  retreat;  and  the  battle,  which  immediately 
commenced,  was  short  and  disastrous  to  the  assailants, 
who  lost  their  commander,  and  many  officers  and  soldiers, 
as  prisoners,  although  they  had  few  killed. 

Lb  Bignbux,  a  village  on  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
known  by  its  double-spired  church.  It  stands  on  a  steep 
bank,  about  60  feet  high,  and  marks  the  commencement 
of  the  Richelieu  Rapids. 

The  river  here  winds  between  broken  banks,  and  the 
number  of  cottaees  is  so  great  as  to  make  the  scene  more 
animating.  A  few  blue,  but  not  lofty  mountains,  arc 
seen  down  the  river. 


>  "I 


Rapids  of  Richelieu. 


The  river,  which  is  about  two  miles  wide,  here  runs 
with  great  velocity,  particularly  the  first  three  miles ;  but 
the  water  is  deep,  and  the  surface  unbroken,  except  near 
the  shores,  which  are  lined  with  innumerable  loose  round 
stones  and  rocks,  extremely  dangerous  to  vessels  when 
they  get  among  them.  These  rocks  seem  placed  with 
mueh  regularity,  forming  two  ranges,  and  making  the  wa> 
ter  appear  as  if  it  had  a  gradual  swell  from  both  sides  to 
the  middle  of  the  river.  Although  the  navigation  of  this 
part  of  the  St.  Lawrence  requires  great  skill  and  caution 
in  other  vessels,  steam  boats  pass  with  security ;  yet, 
on  account  of  the  force  of  the  current  at  ebb  tide,  even 
they  are  obliged  to  vary  their  hours  of  leaving  Quebec,  in 
such  a  way  as  to  have  the  flood  through  the  rapids.  Ves- 
sels are  often  seen  waiting  at  the  bottom  of  the  rapids  for 
a  change  of  tide,  or  for  a  steam  boat  to  tow  them  up. 
The  rapids  extend  about  nine  miles. 

St.  ANToiNB,onthe  south  bank,  is  18  miles  (6  leagues) 
from  Quebec.  The  mountain  seen  towards  the  uorth-east 
is  that  of  Lorette,  and  the  bank  on  that  side  makes  a 
beautiful  slope  to  the  river,  agreeably  varied  by  cultivated 
fields,  interrupted  by  occasional  patches  of  wood  land : 
DT)  the  side  of  the  ridge,  about  midway  fjrom  the  water  to 


TUAVELLEK. 


iiQ7 


ilie  topf  passes  the  road.  The  south  shore,  on  the  con- 
trary, continues  high  and  abrupt  and  nearly  perpendicular, 
with  innumerable  cottages  peeping  over  the  brow. 

Point  aux  Trbmblks,  a  village  on  the  north  shore. 
The  river  is  about  the  same  breadth  all  along  here,  viz. 
about  two  miles,  although  it  appears  much  narrower; 
the  depth  is  about  five  Hithoms,  and  the  tide  rises  14  or 
15  feet.  Nothwithstanding  the  thickness  of  the  popula- 
tion on  the  shores,  the  country  is  a  ivilderness  only  about 
four  miles  back,  being  comprehended  in  what  is  called  the 
King's  Hunting  Ground,  which  extends  from  Three  Rivers, 
40  or  50  miles  below  this  place. 

Jacques  Cartier,  30  miles  from  Quebec.  This  is  a 
village  on  the  north  side,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  ri- 
ver of  the  same  name,  which  is  likewise  distinguished  by 
the  name  of  the  first  explorer  of  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence. 

Carouge  Creek,  on  the  north  side.  Here  a  pretty 
view  opens,  for  a  few  minutes,  into  the  interior,  on  the 
north  shore,  showing  the  Indian  village  of  Lorette,  at  tho 
distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  with  an  extent  of  beauti- 
ful land,  and  a  range  of  fine  mountains  in  the  rear. 

Chaudiere  River  is  a  little  below,  with  a  rock  on  the 
lower  side,  at  its  mouth. 

Looking  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  part  of  Point  I^evi  is 
seen,  covered  with  white  buildings,  one  of  which  is  the 
church.  It  is  opposite  Quebec,  which  remains  for  a  consi- 
derable distance  invisible.  The  banks  rise  to  a  greater  and 
greater  height,  and  present  every  variety  of  surface. 

SiLLRRT  Gove  is  a  mile  below,  above  which  was  fought 
the  final  battle  between  the  English  and  French  in  1759, 
after  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  which  com- 
pleted the  conquest  of  Canada.  At  the  village  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  first  church  ever  built  in  Canada. 

Wolfe's  Cove  is  behind  the  next  point.  This  is  the 
place  where  Wolfe  landed  in  the  night,  and  up  the  preci- 
pitous bank  he  climbed  with  his  troops,  afterwards  draw- 
ing up  his  cannon.  Here  Gen.  Arnold  afterwards  took  up 
his  troops,  in  1755.  There  is  a  remarkable  rock  projecting 
from  the  bank,  at  the  head  of  the  cove,  a  little  to  the  right 
of  which  is  seen  a  road  running  up  the  hill,  at  the  place 
where  the  troops  went  up,  when  there  was  nothing  but  a 


208 


THE  NORTHERN 


foot  path.     The  spot  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of 
a  large  yellow  house  above  the  bank. 

Cafe  Diamond  is  the  abrupt  bluff  in  which  terminates 
the  high  land  on  the  north,  and  under  the  opposite  side  of 
which  Quebec  is  situated.  It  is  34S  feet  high  ;  and  the  for- 
tified lines  on  its  brow  belong  to  the  city  walls,  and  the 
citadel,  which  is  included  by  them.  The  telegraph  is 
raised  on  the  C&Taliers'  Battery,  and  the  round  buildings 
on  the  ridge  are  Marello  towers,  which  serve  as  advanced 
works  to  the  fortress.  The  opposite  point  is  Point  Levi 
and  the  mountains  of  St.  Jinne  and  Tcurmente  appear 
many  miles  down  the  river. 

General  Montgomery  was  killed  just  at  the  base  of 
Cape  Diamond,  in  attacking  a  block  house  on  the  shore 
in  1775. 


QUEBEC. 

The  Lower  Town  of  Quebec  begins  near  this  spot,  and 
stretches  along  at  the  foot  of  the  rock,  while  the  Upper 
Town  soon  begins  to  open  to  view  above,  though  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  it  is  on  the  top  and  the  opposite  side. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  or  the  Governor's  Hou3l% 
overhangs  the  precipice,  being  built  on  supporters,  and 
makes  a  conspicuous  appearance,  interrupting  tbe  city 
wall,  which  encloses  the  Upper  Town. 

But  the  current  is  too  swift  to  allow  much  time  for  ob- 
servation before  arriving  at  the  wharf,  where  the  traveller 
will  find  servants  in  waiting  from  the  principal  public 
houses  in  the  city :  these  are  all  in  the  Upper  Town,  the 
ascent  to  which  is  intricate  as  well  as  steep  and  laborious, 
so  that  the  stranger  will  want  their  assistance  as  guides. 

Inns.  New  Union  Hotel,  building  in  1825,  near  tbe 
Esplanade. 

li|r.  Lemoine's  Boarding  House. 

Maihiot's.    41  St.  Johns-street. 

La  Fontaine's.    Opposite. 

The  Lower  Town  is  crowded  and  dirty,  and  contains 
no  decent  pvVUc  houses.  After  three  or  four  turns,  you 
begin  to  ascend  Mountain-street,  which  is  very  steep  and 
laborious,  and  leads  to  a  gate  in  the  city  wall,  which  i^" 
very  massive,  built  in  the  old  European  style,  of  solii' 


e  west  of 

rminates 
ite  side  of 
d  the  for- 
,  and  the 
igraph  is 
buildings 
advanced 
oint  Levi 
le  appear 

i  base  of 
the  shore 


spot,  and 
the  Upper 
1  the  prin- 
de. 

*S  HOUSLN 

rters,  and 
;  the  city 

me  for  ob- 
le  traveller 
ipal  public 
Town,  the 
I  laborious, 
IS  guides. 
i,  near  the 


id  contains 

turns,  you 

f  steep  and 

II,  which  i? 

e,  of  solif" 


Grcmdli 


JMa/v  ofthe 

£nniL 


V. 


c^ 


Jt.S^2l£aiurie* 


l\ 


I     i 


!     \ 


DSThroofi  Sc. 


TUAVELLER. 


209 


)I4-.., 


stone,  very  thick,  with  narrow  passage  ways  for  carriages 
and  footmen,  and  a  guard  chamber  above,  with  loop-holes 
for  musketeers.  On  the  right,  after  passing  this  gate,  is  a 
battery  of  heavy  guns  ;  and  the  road  in  that  direction,  by 
the  city  wall,  conducts  to  within  a  few  steps  of  Mr.  Le- 
moine's.  On  the  contrary,  to  go  to  the  other  houses 
mentioned,  it  is  necessary  to  follow  the  street  which  opens 
a  little  to  the  left,  and  leads  into  the  midst  of  the  city. 

The  reason  why  good  inns  and  boarding  houses  are  so 
scarce  in  Quebec,  is  that  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
year  there  are  no  strangers  here,  except  such  as  come 
from  the  neighbouring  parts  of  country,  and  those  not  ge- 
nerally of  the  higher  orders  of  society.  During  the  warm 
months,  therefore,  when  travellers  can  go  with  pleasure  in 
steam  boats,  a  great  want  of  accommodations  is  some- 
times experienced,  particularly  within  the  last  year  or  two: 
for  the  numbers  of  strangers  resorting  here  at  that  time 
has  astonishingly  increased.  These  are  almost  all  from 
the  United  States,  and  appear  to  be  regarded  as  welcome 
visiters  by  the  inhabitants,  who  are  generally  remarkable 
for  their  kindness  and  attention  to  strangers. 

The  Military  Band,  attached  to  the  regiment  in  gar- 
rison at  this  place,  gives  some  fine  music  every  day  about 
sunset,  and  is  well  worthy  of  attention.  The  band  con- 
sists of  about  thirteen  buglemen,  and  assembles  in  front  of 
the  barracks,  which  are  in  the  old  Jesuits'  College,  on  the 
Market  Square. 

A  walk  to  the  Esplanade,  in  the  highest  part  of  the  city, 
by  the  wall,  is  very  delightful  at  morning  or  evening,  as  it 
commands  a  fine  view :  but  Cape  Diamond  the  finest  of  all. 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  seize  the  first 
pleasant  days  to  make  excursions  to  the  Falls  of  Mont- 
morency, the  village  of  Lorette  &c.,  which  will  be  more 
particularly  spoken  of  hereafter ;  and  it  will  be  found 
mucli  better,  on  several  accounts,  to  set  out  as  early  in  the 
morning  as  possible. 

The  walls  of  Quebec  enclose  the  upper  part  of  the  hill, 
and  a  little  of  its  declivity  on  the  north  side ;  but  the 
space  is  so  small  that  the  buildings  are  extremely  crowded 
together,  and  the  streets  are  as  closely  built  as  in  the 
largest  cities.  Very  few  of  the  private  houses  present 
anv  thing  remarkable,  but  there  are  many  public  bnildingp 

T 


H 

m 


210 


THE  NOUT^i      N 


worthy  of  particular  attention.  Population  in  lS2o, 
about  22,000. 

,'''  The  French  Parish  Church 

stands  on  one  side  of  the  public  square,  facing  the  bar- 
racks, with  the  seminary  on  one  side.  The  church  con- 
tains little  that  is  remarkable,  the  whole  interior  ap- 
pearing rather  ordinary,  and  the  pictures  having  little  to 
boast  of ;  the  principal  of  them  are  a  Holy  Family,  an 
Ascension,  Crucifixion,  Descent  of  Tongues,  and  Last 
Supper. 

The  College,  which  stands  a  little  to  the  right  in 
coming  out  of  the  church,  is  a  lai^e  stone  building  la 
which  a  considerable  number  of  youth  are  educated  by 
priests,  and  may  be  distinguished  in  the  city  by  wearing 
the  long  black  gown,  sash,  and  cornered  cap,  common  to 
such  institutions  in  Catholic  countries. 


The  Chapel  of  the  Seminary, 

which  stands  a  little  left  from  the  principal  gate,  contains 
the  best  collection  of  pictures,  it  is  said,  in  all  Canada: 
beginning  on  the  right  hand  near  the  door,  is  a  picture  of 
the  Virgin  Mary  attended  by  angels,  &c.  in  the  first  chapel 
on  that  side  is  a  picture  of  the  Crucifixion,  over  the  altar ; 
on  the  right,  the  Baptism  of  the  Ethiopian,  John's  Bap- 
tism, St.  John ;  on  the  left,  a  portrait,  St.  Peter  receiving- 
the  keys,  infant  Saviour,  Devotees,  kc.  on  the  church 
wall,  next  is  a  good  picture  unknown,  then  the  Ascen- 
sion, and  Interment  of  the  Saviour ;  and  over  the  high 
altar,  a  Holy  Family,  and  Dove  descending ;  what  appears 
to  be  some  priest's  dream  ;  on  the  left  side,  is  the  Descent 
of  Tongues,  and  Angel  visiting  a  saint  in  prison,  good ; 
over  the  altar  in  the  remaining  chapel,  is  the  Baptism  in  tbe 
Wilderness,  with  a  number  of  poor  pictures  ;  and  in  the 
church  is  an  Evangelist,  Wise  Men  presenting  Gifts,  &c. 
In  two  gilt  boxes,  one  on  each  side  of  the  high  altar,  are 
two  skullSj  with  several  human  bones,  placed  against  red 
silk,  which  are  regarded  with  superstitious  reverence,  as 
holy  and  perhaps  miraculous  relics  ;  a  lamp  is  kept  con- 
stantly burning  under  that  on  the  left  hand- 


TRAVELLER. 


211 


The  B4RRACKS 

are  in  a  large  stone  building  opposite  tbe  church,  which 
ivas  formerly  the  Jesuits'  CulU'ge :  it  is  three  and  four 
stories  high,  forming  an  angle  like  an  L,  each  side  of 
which  is  about  200  feet  long.  Here  are  quartered  the 
troops  which  garrison  the  city  ;  in  time  of  peace  they  con- 
sist of  two  regiments  of  infantry,  two  companies  of  ar- 
tillery, and  one  of  sappers  and  miners. 

Convents. 

There  are  t%vo  convents  in  Quebec  ;  one  of  them  has 
about  40  UrsiUineSt  who  have  a  large  convent  and  church 
near  the  prison,  in  the  west  part  of  the  city,  and  keep  a 
large  school  for  girls.  Tbe  other  convent  is  lower  down, 
and  contains  an  hospital  for  diseases  of  the  lighter  kind ; 
while  the  most  serious  and  severe  are  treated  at  the  nun- 
nery near  the  St.  Charles's  River,  about  1^  miles  above  the 
town.  These  institutions,  however,  arc  not  now  open  to 
visiters  as  they  formerly  were ;  at  least  in  1825  it  was  im- 
possible to  gain  access  to  them. 

The  Arsenal 

is  near  the  palace  gate,  and  contains  about  100,000  stand 
of  arms,  arranged  with  great  regularity. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Louis 

is  a  large  building,  but  makes  a  less  imposing  appearance 
than  when  seen  from  the  water.  The  street  beyond  com- 
mands a  fine  view ;  and  there  are  several  beautiful  ter- 
raced gardens  formed  on  the  cteep  side  of  the  rock,  al- 
most overhanging  the  buildings  in  the  lower  town. 

The  fortifications  of  the  city  on  the  land  side  are 
strong,  and  worthy  of  particular  attention  ;  as  before  re- 
marked, they  may  be  examined  with  interest  by  taking  a 
walk  in  that  direction,  in  the  morning  or  evening. 

St.  Louis's  Gate  is  the  highest  of  the  city  gates,  and  the 
street  of  the  same  name  conducts  to  it ;  this  leads  to  the 
famous  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  the  battle  ground  of  Gen. 
Wolfe.  .  4,  ; 

The  Esplanade  Battery 

lies  between  St.  Louis  and  St.  John's  gates,  and  contains 


\ 


Iri 


212 


THE  NORTHERN 


12  cannon  and  4  mortars,  with  magazines  built  where 
they  could  not  be  ii^uredby  an  enemy's  shot.  The  ground 
slopes  in  such  a  manner  as  to  expose  a  lai^e  extent  of 
country  to  view,  the  fine  fertile  plain  beyond  St.Charles's 
River,  the  beautiful  ridge  of  land  beyond,  with  the  vil- 
lages of  Lorette,  Charlebourg  and  others  ;  the  St.  Law- 
rence  on  the  right,  with  Point  Levi,  and  the  Isle  of  Or- 
leans, and  the  fine  ranges  of  distant  mountains.  The 
mouth  of  the  Montmorency  can  easily  be  discerned,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  9  miles  from  the 
city  ;  that  is  the  spot  where  the  falls  are  to  be  seen,  and 
the  battle  ground  where  Gen.  Wolfe  made  an  unsuccessful 
attack  on  the  French  General  Dieskau,  before  the  capture 
of  the  city. 

Mounting  to  the  parapet  near  the  gate  of  St.  Louis,  the 
plan  of  the  defences  may  be  in  part  discerned,  even  by  an 
unpractised  eye  ;  and  by  descending  and  passing  through 
the  gate,  the  strength  of  the  place  will  be  better  under- 
stood. The  walls  of  the  city,  the  bastions,  and  other 
works,  are  from  20  to  30  feet  in  height,  and  formed  of 
sC  }ne.  The  path  is  made  to  turn  several  abrupt  angles,  in 
order  to  expose  the  approach  to  raking  fires.  In  coming 
towards  the  gate  from  the  country,  at  the  first  angle,tbe 
stranger  is  brought  to  face  8  cannon,  placed  in  two  rows,  at 
the  second  angle  2,  and  at  the  third  2  ;  at  the  fourth  he 
sees  3  on  the  right  and  3  on  the  left ;  and  at  the  fifth  finds 
himself  in  front  of  the  gate,  which  has  a  gun  on  its 
top.  The  gate  is  of  very  heavy  and  durable  masonry,  and 
the  passage  through  it  is  a  dark  arched  way,  about  55  feet 
long ;  it  ib  closed  by  two  heavy  doors,  with  wickets  so 
placed  as  not  to  face  each  other.  Near  the  hospital  is 
part  of  th)  old  wiench  wall,  about  50  feet  high,  which  con- 
tains two  Ok*  three  gentlemen's  gardens. 

The  Citadel, 

on  Cape  Diamond,  is  designed  for  a  place  of  impregnable 
strength.  It  has  been  gradually  progressing  for  a  number 
of  years,  and  in  1825  was  not  expected  to  be  soon  com- 
pleted. Admission  may  be  usually  obtained  by  applica- 
tion to  the  proper  ofiicers,  and  the  necessary  information 
gained  at  the  hotels.  The  British  government  intended  to 
devote  6000^  per  annum  on  these  works ;  but  as  the  money 


TllAVELLEK. 


213 


15  sometiinea  delaycdi  they  are  occasionally  exposed  to 
uome  interruptions. 

Most  of  the  works  are  to  be  new,  though  some  parts  of 
the  old  have  been  made  to  serve.  They  will  include  5  or 
6  acres,  on  the  very  summit  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  extend 
to  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  348  feet  above  the  St.  Law- 
rence. There  are  to  be  four  bastions  and  one  demi  bastion, 
a  ravelin,  in  advance  of  the  western  batition,  and  other 
out- works.  The  walls  are  about  40  feet  high,  and  built 
perpendicularly,  of  fine  hewn  stone ;  the  ditch  being 
blasted  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  about  50  feet  wide. 
After  making  two  angles  on  the  west  of  the  gate,  the  new 
wall  joins  the  old. 

The  Casemates.  Entering  the  gate,  and  passing  be- 
hind the  wall,  a  continued  line  of  large  rooms  is  disco- 
vered following  the  wail,  built  of  substantial  brick  work, 
and  arched  over  head  with  such  strength  as  to  be  bomb 
proof.  These  rooms,  which  are  known  by  the  technical 
name  of  Casemates,  are  about  50  feet  long,  20  wide,  and 

16  or  18  high,  each  to  be  lighted  by  a  door  and  two  small 
windows,  looking  inward,  and  pierced  at  the  other  side, 
with  five  loop  holes  each,  for  musketry.  These  loop 
holes  are  on  the  new  plan,  narrow  inside,  and  opening 
with  steps  faced  with  iron,  to  prevent  musket  shot  from 
glancing  in.  In  1825,  about  30  casemates  had  been  com- 
pleted, and  about  10  more  were  designed  ;  these  are  all 
towards  the  land  side,  the  natural  defence  of  the  precipice 
over  the  water  being  sufficiently  strong.  The  casemates 
will  communicate  with  each  other  by  folding  doors,  which 
may  be  thrown  open  the  whole  length  of  the  bomb  proofs, 
and  will  then  furnish  space  for  the  whole  garrison,  (from 
3000  to  5000  men,)  to  parade  at  once. 

The  Subterranean  Passage  leads  from  a  little  stair- 
case in  the  bastion  next  east  of  the  gate,  under  the  ditch, 
to  a  small  out-work  with  two  or  three  casemated  rooms. 
The  stairs  are  so  narrow,  as  to  admit  only  one  person  at  a 
time ;  and  are  constructed  in  a  spiral  form,  and  in  the 
neatest  manner.  The  passage,  which  is  about  130  feet 
long,  has  also  two  branches  where  guards  might  be  placed 
to  prevent  intrusion.  The  cooking  rooms,  for  part  of  the 
garrison,  are  nea  the  second  bastion  ;  and  over  the  whole 
are  to  be  mounted  large  cannon. 

T2 


214 


THE  NORTHERN 


Brock's  Battery,  a  work  of  wood  and  earth,  raised 
during  the  late  war  with  the  United  States,  is  to  be  partly 
retained  and  converted  into  a  Ca?alier8*  Battery.  This, 
as  well  as  the  magasines,  barracks,  officers*  quarters,  &c. 
is  within  the  works  ;  and  at  the  corner  next  the  river 
and  town,  is  the  old  Cavaliers*  Battery,  a  very  heavy  stone 
building,  originally  erected  for  the  palace  of  the  French 
governors  of  Quebec  :  below  it,  at  the  water's  edge.  Gen. 
Montgomery  was  killed.  It  has  dark  vaults,  the  walls  are 
six  feet  thick,  near  the  ground,  and  from  the  Telegraph  on 
the  top  is  one  of  the  finest  views  that  can  be  imagined : 
the  broad  surface  of  the  St.  Lawrence  lies  below,  and 
stretches  off  far  to  the  right  and  left;  the  whole  city  of 
Quebec  is  crowded  together  almost  beneath  you,  while 
Point  Levi,  with  its  white  buildings,  is  seen  opposite, 
with  a  long  stretch  of  lofty  shores.  Turning  the  eye  in 
the  opposite  direction,  the  beautiful  ridge  of  land,  which 
begins  many  miles  down  the  river  on  the  northern  side, 
and  rises  with  a  gentle  swell  from  the  shore,  covered  with 
the  richest  and  most  varied  display  of  cultivation,  offers 
a  most  delightful  view  over  an  extensive  and  fertile 
region,  beautiful  in  form,  divided  into  innumerable  por- 
tions, cultivated  by  a  dense  and  industrious  population, 
and  scattered  with  their  clustered  dwellings.  On  the  left, 
appears,  among  other  villages,  that  of  Lorette,  with  the 
Montreal  road  for  nine  miles,  almost  lined  with  houses  ; 
and  on  the  right  that  of  Beaufort,  occupying  the  ridge  of 
the  high  ground,  while  a  little  beyond  it,  is  the  chasm  into 
which  the  River  Montmorency  plunges,  with  its  famous 
cataract,  just  before  it  joins  the  St.  Lawrence ;  all  the 
horizon  in  that  direction,  and  indeed  from  the  west  to 
the  north,  and  quite  to  the  east,  is  broken  by  ranges  of  fine 
mountains,  some  of  them  near  and  bold,  and  in  other 
places,  between  them,  distant  blue  ridges  are  disclosed, 
three,  four,  or  five  in  succession.  In  the  south  and  south- 
west, where  an  aperture  is  left,  is  a  distant  and  lower 
range,  scattered  with  cottages.  It  may,  perhaps,  not  be 
hazarding  too  much  to  say,  that  no  scene  in  Canada,  or 
the  United  States,  can  boast  of  a  combination  of  objects, 
comparable  in  variety  and  magnificence  to  those  here  pre- 
sented to  view. 

Cape  Diamond  derives  its  name  from  the  beautiful  lit* 


_i*>*i,_ .-_iij  i- ■. 


TRAVELLER. 


'2lb 


tie  rock-crystals,  which  arc  found  in  veins  of  white  crys- 
tallized lime-stone,  disseminated  in  the  black  lime-stone 
blasted  out  for  the  works.  The  quartz  stones  used  in  the 
walls  are  very  fine,  and  are  brought  from  three  miles 
above  the  city.  Of  those  prepared  for  corner  stones  of 
a  bastion,  near  the  old  governor's  house,  are  homogeneous 
masses  of  granular  quartz,  weighing  U  or  2  tons,  or  even 
more.  Some  of  the  crystals  are  perfect  and  brilliant, 
though  small. 

There  is  a  long  stair  case  of  many  steps,  leading  from  this 
elevated  position  down  to  the  Lower  Town,  by  which,  it 
was  originally  intended  to  draw  up  heavy  articles. 

The  Plains  of  Abraham. 

This  interesting  tract  of  ground,  the  field  where  Gen. 
Wolfe  succeeded,  by  a  bold  and  decisive  blow,  in  capturing 
tlic  city  of  Quebec  in  1759,  lies  at  only  about  the  distance 
of  a  mile,  and  should  not  be  neglected.  Indeed  it  would 
be  found  amply  to  repay  the  trouble,  to  make  a  much 
longer  excursion  in  that  direction,  as  the  road  is  fine  and 
the  country  interesting.* 


*  After  the  battle  of  Montmorency,  while  the  English  fleet 
lay  up  the  river,  at  one  o'clock  in  the  ni^ht  of  September  12th, 
1759,  Gen.  Wolfe  quietly  transported  his  troops  from  the  fleet 
into  the  boats,  and  cautiously  passed  down  the  river.  He  in- 
tended to  land  two  or  three  miles  above  Cape  Diamond,  and 
set  possession  of  the  Heights  of  Abraham :  but  was  drifted 
aown  so  rapidly  that  he  passed  the  place  without  discovering 
it,  and  then  resolved  to  attempt  a  landing  at  Wolfe's  Cove, 
just  above  the  city.  The  shore  is  bold  and  the  rocks  so  hiffh 
and  steep,  that  only  a  few  sentinels  were  posted  alons  the 
precipices  and  the  margin.  This  desperate  enterprise  liow- 
ever  did  not  discourage  the  leader  or  his  troops  ;  but  an  hour 
before  day  break  they  had  eflected  their  landing,  and  com- 
menced the  arduous  ascent  by  a  narrow,  broken  path,  at  the 
top  of  which  was  stationed  a  captain's  guard.  As  fast  as  the 
English  reached  the  summit  they  formed  on  the  level  plain. 

At  ten  o'clock  Montcalm  arrived  from  above,  and  a  battle 
was  foueht,  which  decided  the  fate  of  Canada.  Montcalm 
stationed  1500  sharp  shooters  in  front,  but  the  British  coolly 
stood  their  groimd  till  the  French  were  within  40  yards',  when 


j^iG 


THE  NUKTUERN 


Passing  out  at  St.Louis*s  Gate,  you  observe  »  number  ol 
handsome  dwellings  and  gardens  by  the  ro&<!  ?iiide,  until 
you  get  some  distance  beyond  the  towers,  when  you  turn 
into  the  Race  Course  on  the  left  side  of  the  road.  Cor- 
poral M'Gowan,  who  lives  on  the  ground,  is  considered  a 
tolerable  guide  to  the  field,  though  he  can  say  little  more 
than  that  Gen.  Wolfe  fell  near  the  corner  of  the  fenced 
field,  off  towards  the  river,  and  that  the  stone  which 
formerly  marked  the  spot,  has  now  been  removed.  A  lit- 
tle east  of  the  place,  is  the  remnant  of  a  breast  work,  with 
several  angles,  marked  out  by  bushes,  and  commanding  a 
fine  view.  The  British  line  was  first  formed  across  the 
plain,  and  ran  near  the  house  before  mentioned,  and  the 
battle  was  fought  principally  on  that  ground. 

The  Plains  of  Abraham  are  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
breadth,  extending  a  great  distance  towards  the  west, 
with  a  geiilie  slope  on  each  side,  and  so  smooth  as  to 
offer  an  admirable  field  for  the  manoeuvring  and  display  of 
troops.  From  the  old  breast-work,  not  only  this  ground 
is  overlooked,  but  the  shipping  in  Wolfe's  Cove,  the  oppo* 
site  shore,  the  river  to  the  next  turn,  &c.  The  spot  appears, 
indeed,  inferior  in  elevation  only  to  Cape  Diamond  and 
the  middle  tower. 

Wolfe's  Cove 

is  about  a  mile  further  west,  or  half  a  mile  beyond  the 
large  house  seen  near  the  river's  bank.  A  branch  of  the 
road  leads  off  to  it  from  the  left,  and  descends  to  the 
shore  by  a  passage  cut  out  long  since  the  time  of  Gen. 
'W^olfe,  as  the  cove  is  now  a  great  depositc  for  lumber. 


i 


they  opened  their  fire,  and  soon  afterwards  terminated  the  en- 
gagement  with  their  bayonets.  The  place  where  the  greatest 
carnage  was  made,  is  near  the  river's  bank,  where  the  Eng- 
lish left  was  closely  engaged  with  the  French  ri^ht.  The 
action  lasted  two  hours,  and  in  it  both  chiefs  received  their 
mortal  wounds.  Gen.  Wolfe  was  shot  in  two  or  three  places. 
When  hardly  any  signs  of  life  remained,  news  was  brought 
that  the  day  had  declared  for  the  British,  "Then,"  said  he« 
*' J  die  content." 


TRAVELLEU. 


217 


inbcr  ol 
iC,  until 
ou  turn 
.     Cov- 
idered  a 
Lie  more 
i  fenced 
e  wbich 
.     Alit- 
)rk,  with 
landing  a 
;ro8S  the 
,  and  the 

a  mile  in 
the  west, 
otb  as  to 
display  of 
is  ground 
the  oppo- 
it  appears, 
tnond  and 


eyond  the 
nch  of  the 
nds  to  the 
»e  of  Gen. 
umber. 


ated  the  en- 
the  greatest 
re  the  Eng- 
right.  The 
ceived  their 
hree  places. 
«ras  brought 
n,"  said  he, 


The  course  which  he  followed  up  the  bank,  lay  along 
the  channel  of  a  little  brook,  which  leads  off  to  the  right, 
ivhile  the  road  goes  straight  on  up  the  bank. 

SiBGE  OF  Quebec  in  1755, 

The  scenes  we  have  thus  briefly  recalled,  are  not  the 
only  ones  of  a  military  character,  of  which  this  com- 
manding  and  delightful  plain  has  been  the  theatre. 

In  1775,  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  revolution, 
the  Continental  Congress  prepared  an  expedition  against 
Canada.  It  consisted  of  two  divisions :  one  under  Gen. 
Montgomery  came  down  Lake  Champlain  and  took  St. 
John*fl,  Chambly,  Sorel,  Three  Rivers,  and  then  proceeded 
down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  this  place.  The  other  under 
Gen.  Arnold,  took  the  route  through  the  wilderness  of 
Msine  for  Quebec. 

Arnold  had  10  companies  of  infantry,  beside  3  of  rifle- 
men, and  one  of  artillery,  with  a  few  volunteers.  They 
proceeded  up  the  Kennebeck,  but  suffered  so  much  Arom 
fatigue  and  scarcity  that  many  fell  sick,  and  one  division 
returned.  The  remainder,  however,  reached  Point  Levi 
on  the  9th  of  November,  and  alarmed  the  city.  The  bat- 
teaux  had  been  removed,  and  the  strong  wind  detained 
them  from  crossing,  after  they  had  been  supplied  by  the 
Canadians.  The  English  frigate  Lizard  and  several  other 
vessels  were  also  in  the  river.  He  at  length,  however,  ef- 
fected a  landing  a  little  above  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  marching 
down  the  shore  climbed  up  the  rocks  at  that  place,  and 
surrounded  the  city  without  effect.  He  then  retired  20 
miles  to  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  waited  for  Gen.  Mont* 
gomery,  who  arrived,  after  great  trials,  Dec.  1st,  with 
about  300  men. 

The  two  generals  afterwards  marched  to  Quebec,  and 
planting  their  mortars  on  the  snow  and  ice,  fired  into  the 
town  with  little  effect.  The  small  pox  broke  out,  and  the 
cold  was  severe  ;  but  the  town  was  attacked  at  four  points 
at  once,  in  a  snow  storm,  without  success.  Montgomery 
was  killed,  one  detachment  was  taken,  and  Arnold  retired 
three  miles  and  entrenched  himself. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


I 


Ui  Kii   12.2 
1   U°    12.0 


HlbL. 

1.25  III  U   1 1.6 


—    6" 


0> 


ff^ 


7] 


/. 


<?3^  •.''V 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14080 

(716)  $72-4503 


21 S 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  Falls  of  MoNTMORENcr. 


Hire  a  coach|  a  gig,  a  caleche  or  a  saddle  horse,  and  set 
out,  if  possible,  early  in  the  morning.  In  a  caleche,  you 
will  have  the  advantage  of  a  guide  in  your  driver.  Pass 
through  the  Palace  gate  end  a  village  divided  from 
Quebec  only  by  the  wall,  cross  the  bridge  over  St.  Charles's 
river,  which  forms  a  regular  serpentine,  and  enter  the 
beautiful  cultivated  plain  beyond*  The  Convent  and  Hos- 
pital are  seen  about  a  mile  on  the  left,  and  a  handsome 
succession  of  fields  is  observed  on  both  sides,  divided  by 
low  palings.  At  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  the 
road  passes  several  country  houses,  among  which  are  re  - 
markable  Mr.  Williams's,  a  Quebec  merchant,  Col.  Ar- 
can*s,  &c. 

Riding  down  the  coast,  at  a  considerable  elevation  from 
the  river,  many  fine  views  are  presented  of  the  opposite 
banks,  the  isle  of  Orleans,  the  mountains  of  St.  Anne 
and  Tourmente  down  the  river.  The  dwellings  are 
small,  and  the  inhabitants  poor  and  numerous. 

Beaufort  is  a  village  principally  composed  of  such 
buildings,  stretching  for  a  great  distance  along  the  road. 
Just  before  entering  it,  some  large  mills  are  seen  on  the 
right,  standing  on  a  stream  which  crosses  the  path,  and 
beyond  there  is  a  natural  pavement  formed  of  the  hori' 
zontal  rock.  There  is  a  small  church  here,  with  three 
steeples,  prettily  situated  on  the  river's  bank,  with  a  patch 
of  grass  and  trees  around  it ;  but  it  contains  nothing 
worthy  of  particular  attention. 

On  approaching  the  Montmorency,  the  road  turns  to 
the  left,  and  then  to  the  right,  on  an  extensive,  smooth 
and  gradual  ascent,  part  of  which  was  the  field  of  a  bloody 
slaughter,  sufiered  by  a  division  of  Gen.  Wolfe's  army  in 
1759,  a  short  time  previous  to  his  battle  on  the  Heights  of 
Abraham.  The  position  of  the  armies  will  be  more  easily 
understood  on  reaching  the  opposite  side  of  the  river :  it 
is  therefore  suflScient  to  remark  here,  that  the  French 
lines  were  bounded  by  the  nearer  bank,  as  the  remains  of 
their  entrenchments  on  the  left  still  testify  ;  and  that  the 
British  came  up  from  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  on 


TRAVELLER. 


219 


the  rigbtj  to  attack  two  of  their  nearest  batteries,  before 
the  second  of  which  tbey  were  cut  to  pieces. 

Dismounting  in  a  little  wood  and  fastening  the  horses, 
you  may  proceed  along  the  precipitous  bank  of  the  Mont- 
morency, by  a  foot  path,  to  see  the  falls  from  this  side. 
As  it  is  a  difficult  way,  and  the  view  more  fine  and  unob« 
stnicted  from  the  opposite  side,  it  is  hardly  worth  the 
trouble,  unless  you  have  plenty  of  time.  You  have  to 
clamber  rocks,  pass  down  a  long  ladder,  and  stand  on  the 
verge  of  an  abyss  into  which  the  cataract  dashes.  Water 
is  drawn  off  here  in  a  wooden  race,  for  the  supply  of  Mr. 
Pattersoti*8  great  Saw-mills,  which  are  worthy  of  being 
visited. 

It  is  better  therefore  to  follow  the  road  on  foot,  to  crossr 
the  bridge,  (where  you  pay  a  souSf)  and  entering  the  fields 
on  the  right,  follow  down  the  course  of  the  river.  There 
are  several  fine  points  of  view,  from  which  the  falls  ap- 
pear to  great  advantf^e ;  but  on  account  of  the  height 
and  steepness  of  the  banks,  it  is  necessary  to  descend  to- 
wards the  St.  Lawrence,  and  then  return  by  the  margin, 
to  obtain  a  sight  of  them  from  below. 

On  the  fine  elevated  point  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  two  rivers,  and  commanding  an  unobstructed  view 
upon  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  miles  up  and  down,  with 
several  lofty  mountains  below,  the  Isle  of  Orleans  oppo- 
site, Quebec  above,  and  the  cataract  close  at  hand,  the 
British  here  took  a  strong  position  in  July  1759 ;  and 
from  this  place  made  a  bold,  but  unsuccessful  attempt 
against  their  enemies  on  the  opposite  side.  The  remains 
of  their  entrenchments  are  plainly  visible  under  our  feet ;  ' 
and  it  is  easy  to  comprehend  the  situation  of  the  forces 
before  the  capture  of  Quebec,  the  circumstances  which 
rendered  the  first  battle  so  calamitous  to  the  invading 
force,  in  the  first  battle,  and  those  which  favoured  them 
in  the  second.  The  natural  and  artificial  strength  of  the 
city  combined,  was  enough,  even  in  those  days,  to  discou- 
rage any  attempt  against  it  from  the  water ;  and  in  order 
to  prevent  an  approach  by  land,  the  French  occupied  two 
strong  positions  at  a  distance  above  and  below  it :  the  for- 
mer at  Siliery  River,  the  other  at  the  Montmorency. 
Wolfe  here  made  a  first,  but  unsuccessful  attempt ;  and 
afterwards,  by  a  still  more  desperate  blow,  accomplished 


220 


THE  NORTHERN 


his  wishes  at  the  Plains  of  Abraham.  For  an  account  oi 
the  battle  of  Montmorency,  we  refer  to  the  note.'*' 

The  best  view  of  the  cataract  is  to  be  enjoyed  from  the 
spur  of  the  rock,  which  projects  from  the  eastern  shore ; 
but  the  spray,  which  keeps  the  surface  covered  with  a  coat 
of  green,  will  drench  the  clothes  in  a  few  minutes. 

The  height  of  the  fall  is  said  to  be  240  feet ;  and  the 


*  BATTLE  OP  MONTMORENCT. 

When  Gen.  Wolfe  came  to  operate  against  Quebec  in  June, 
1759,  he  posted  his  army  on  the  island  of  Orleans,  while  the 
fleet  blocluded  the  port.  At  the  end  of  that  month  General 
Monckton  was  sent  over  to  Point  Levi,  and  established  himself 
there,  whence  he  was  able  to  fire  upon  the  city.  Above  the 
River  Montmorency  the  landing  was  protected  by  the  Marquis 
de  MontcsJm.  Gen.  Wolfe  laMed  his  troops  at  the  momh  3f 
the  Montmorency  during  the  night  of  July  31st,  and  erected  a 
battery  on  the  precipice  north-east  of  tlie  falls,  the  remains  of 
which  are  to  be  seen.  The  French  were  entrenched  along  the 
opposite  bank ;  and  on  the  31st  of  July  Gen.  Wolfe  sent  his 
troops  to  fordllie  Montmorency  below  the  falls,  to  storm  their 
worKs.  Some  of  Gen.  Monckton^s  force  from  Point  Levi  in 
crossing  with  boats  got  aground,  and  difficulty  ensued ;  but  the 
landing  was  made  in  the  utemoon  on  the  beach  to  the  right  of 
the  saw  mills.  They  came  however  too  late ;  fw  the  thirteen 
grenadier  companies  with  200  Americans,  who  had  landed  be- 
fore, refused  to  wait  or  to  form,  as  had  been  intended  in  foui- 
colunms,  but  marched  tumultuously  round  the  rock,  and  rushed 
up  hill  in  a  mass  towards  the  French  works,  at  some  distance 
back  from  the  old  redoubt  on  the  point,  which  had  been  de- 
serted. A  warm  fire  however  was  directed  against  them,  which 
cut  down  about  500  men,  and  they  were  obliged  to  retreat  to 
the  redoubt,  whence  they  were  ordered  back  to  the  beach  to 
form.  The  enterprise  was  then  interrupted  by  a  severe 
storm,  and  finally  abandoned. 

The  British  army  afterwards  went  up  the  river  in  the  fleet, 
and  the  Marquis  Bougainville  was  sent  with  1500  men  to  watch 
their  movements.  With  wonderful  skill  and  good  fortune, 
however.  Gen.  Wolfe  succeeded  in  baffling  their  vigilance,  as 
well  as  that  of  all  the  sentinels  along  the  whole  shore  ;  but  the 
scene  of  the  event  with  which  these  movements  was  connected 
lies  at  a  distance  from  the  place  where  we  now  are ;  and  it 
will  be  necessary  to  return  to  Quebec  and  >i9it  the  Plains  of 
Abraiiam  to  retrace  it  with  advantaee.  i 


TRAVELLER. 


^1 


count  oi 

from  the 
n  shore ; 
ith  a  coat 

,  and  the 


ec  in  June^ 
,  while  the 
ih  General 
bed  himself 
Above  the 
theMatqnis 
le  mouth  3f 
kd  erected  a 
i  remains  of 
edfdongthe 
olfe  sent  his 
)  storm  their 
pint  Levi  in 
ned;  but  the 
)the  right  of 
the  thirteen 
i  landed  be- 
nded in  four 
:,  and  rushed 
»me  distance 
tad  been  de- 
them,  which 
to  retreat  to 
the  beach  to 
»y  a  severe 


banks  on  both  sides  below  forms  a  precipitous  and  fright- 
ful precipice,  of  rather  a  curving  form,  of  bare,  sharp,  slaty 
rock,  whose  strata  incline  from  north  to  south,  and  the 
perpendicular  veins  run  nearly  N.  W.  and  S.  E. 

At  low  water  the  Montmorency  ma^  be  forded,  with 
some  caution,  where  it  was  passed  by  the  British  troops ; 
but  the  tide  rises  fast  and  high. 

The  Saw  Mills  built  by  Mr.  ?attcrson  arc  situated  be- 
hind the  western  shore  of  the  Montmorency.  As  before 
remarked,  they  are  supplied  with  water  by  the  trough  seen 
on  the  other  side.  They  are  all  contained  in  one  large 
building,  where  the  water  enters  at  the  third  story  in 
three  channels,  moving  6  gates  in  the  second  story,  and 
ft  in  the  first.  These  gates  are  collections  of  saws,  con- 
taining 6  or  S  each,  which  cut  up  whole  logs  into  planks 
or  boards  at  once. 

The  rafts  of  timber  are  stopped  above  the  mill,  taken 
apart,  and  thus  floated  down  by  a  little  canal,  whence  they 
are  drawn  up  by  machinery,  several  logs  being  bound  to- 
gether by  a  chain,  and  laid  before  the  saws.  Vast  quantities 
of  sawn  lumber  arc  generally  to  be  seen  here  on  the 
vrharves,  ready  for  shipping.  The  mill  contains  80  single 
SAWS,  beside  5  circular  ones,  which  perform  their  work 
Tvith  great  rapidity. 

The  Village  of  Lorette 

may  be  taken  in  the  way  returning  from  Montmorency, 
if  there  should  bo  time  enough  remaining,  (which  is  barely 
possible,)  and  the  ride  along  the  high  ridge  leading  in  that 
direction,  will  be  found  delightful.  Lorette  is  an  Indian 
village,  with  a  Catholic  church,  and  the  stranger  may  fur- 
nish himself  with  moccasins,  belts,  pipes,  &c. 

Route  from  Q,uebec  to  Boston,  It  is  proposed  by  the  state 
of  Mnine,  to  open  a  road  from  Hallowell  up  the  course  of 
the  Kennebeck  River,  to  the  Canada  line  near  Quebec. 
There  is  a  communication  kept  up  to  some  extent  between 
the  two  places,  and  considerable  numbers  of  cattle  are 
driven  every  year  that  way ;  but  for  a  great  distance 
it  is  necessary  to  pass  through  a  wilderness,  and  in  con- 
sequence of  the  Want  of  inhabitants,  there  is  no  shelter 
to  be  found  for  man  or  beast,  for  several  days*  journeys. 

X 


222 


THK  NORTHERN 


The  names  and  diitancei  of  the  principal  places  on  this 
tvild  and  unArequented  routei  are  given  below.  When 
the  proposed  road  shall  have  been  opened,  it  will  be  found 
a  convenient  way  to  New-England,  for  those  who  do  not 
wish  to  return  by  Montreal,  and  will  become  peopled  and 
iVequently  travelled.  This  is  the  route  by  which  Gen. 
Arnold  approached  Quebec  in  1775. 

Quebec  to  the  Ohaudiere,  or 

Riviere  du  Loup 60 

Moose  River 37    97 

Forks  of  the  Kennebeck 24  121 

Upper  settlement  on  do 12  133 

Hallowell 67  200 

Boston 170  370 

Another  route  along  the  Ptnohaeot  is  also  to  be  surveyed 
by  the  authority  of  the  state  of  Maine.  . 

Land  Route  from  Q,uehec  to  Montreal, 

Upper  Road, 
(The  pleasantor.) 

<    1st  post,  Lorette, 16  mile?. 

2d  Jacques  Cartier, 16 

3d  Deschambeaux, 16 

4th      St.  Anne, 16 

iith      Batiscamp, 8 

6th      Champlain, 9 

7th      AuxCfapes, 8 

Sth      Trois  Rivieres, 6 

Lower  Road, 

1st  post.  Cape  Rouge, 9 

2d  St.  Augustine, 9 

3d  Pointe  aux  Trembles, 8 

4th         Ecureil,.. 9 

5th         Cape  Sant^, 9 

(Garneau's  inn,  called   "  the  Three  Sisters,'^ 

is  excellent.) 
6th         Deschambeaux,  &c S  miles. 

f--.^   ■'  ■  '     .  .■„,-.■•.■ 

4:--<-i  '.■.:_,.  ■  '    .     .■  \ 


TRAVELLBU.  383 

ROUTES  FROM  QUEBEC. 
Road  from  Quebec  to  Montreal. 

For  remarks  on  the  advantages  of  travelling  by  land  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  compared  with  those  offered  by  the 
steam  boats,  see  page  300,  recollecting  that  the  passage 
in  the  latter  is  usually  12  hours  longer  up  the  river  than 
down.     (For  the  list  of  places,  see  the  last  page.) 

The  country  for  some  miles  above  Quebec  is  more 
varied  in  its  surface,  than  that  below  Montreal ;  and  ca- 
leche&  and  gigs  may  be  obtained  here  as  well  as  there.  It 
is  to  be  hoped  that  regular  stage  coaches  will  soon  be 
established  on  that  road.  The  foregoing  is  an  enumera- 
tion of  the  villages  and  best  inns.  The  former  are  ge- 
nerally nine  miles  apart,  but  the  distances  are  particu- 
larized. 

Steam  Boat.     Engage  an  early  passage  to  Montreal. 

The  number  of  steam  boats  employed  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, in  1825,  was  seven  ;  and  for  remarks  on  the  navi- 
gation of  the  river,  see  page  202. 

Leaving  the  dock,  you  pass  under  Cape  Diamond,  nearly 
at  the  foot  of  which  General  Montgomery  was  killed  in 

775. 

Wolfe^s  Cove  is  about  a  mile  beyond.    See  page  207. 

For  the  other  places  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  see  the 
map,  and  the  notices  of  them  in  the  Route  from  Montreal 
to  Quebec. 

Rapids  of  Richelieu,  page  206. 

Three  Rivers,  page  205. 

Lake  St.  Peters, 

William  Henrt  or  Sorel,  page  204. 

Montreal,  page  192.  .    ^ 

See  the  route  from  Montreal  to  Lake  Ontario  and  JV^a- 


From  Montreal  to  Lake  Champlain,  and  the 
United  States. 

Those  who  are  returning  by  this  route,  may  be  advised 
to  cross  to  Longueil  instead  of  La  Prairie,  and  go  to  St, 
John's  by  the  way  of  Chambly.  The  distance  is  nearly 
the  same,  the  passage  of  the  river  is  reduced  about  two- 
thirds,  the  country,  is  much  finer  and  better  cultivated. 


^24 


THE  N0RTU£11N 


and  the  old  castle  or  toirer  of  Chambly  is  of  some  intci-. 
est  for  its  history. 

It  will  be  necessary,  however,  to  make  particular  ar- 
rangements for  a  carriage,  and  to  take  every  precaution 
to  arrive  at  St.  John's  in  season  for  the  sceam  boat. 

From  Montreal  to  Longueil  3  miles,  Longueil  to  Cham* 
bly  12,  thenee  to  St.  John's  15. 

Chamblt* 

This  is  a  small  village.  Near  the  middle  of  it  stands  the 
old  fort,  on  a  point,  surrounded  by  a  ditch.  It  is  an  old 
square  building,  perhaps  ISO  feet  on  each  side,  with  bas- 
tions at  the  corners,  but  incapable  of  withstanding  heavy 
cannon. 

This  fort  was  taken  by  Msyors  Brown  and  Livingston, 
in  1755,  who  were  sent  out  with  a  strong  detachment  by 
Gen.  Montgomeiy,  while  he  was  besieging  St.  John's. 
The  garrison,  being  very  feeble,  surrendered. 

St.  John's :   see  page  188. 

In  the  last  war  the  British  had  6000  men  hutted  here  for 
a  year  and  a  half. 

Canals  have  been  proposed  from  the  Sorel  River  to  the 
St.  Lawrence ;  one  from  Pointe  Le  Mule,  opposite  Isle 
aux  Nois,  over  low  fine  country  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  26 
miles,  for  £30,000.  The  difficult  navigation  which  it 
would  avoid  is  considered  half  the  voyage  to  Whitehall. 

Passage  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall. 

In  1825  a  steam  boat  left  St.  John's  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Friday,  at  2  P.  M.  $6. 
St.  John's. 

Isle  aux  Noiz 10  miles. 

Rouse's  Point 11 

Chazy 12 

Plattsburgh 15 

Port  Kent. 8 

Burlington''' 10 

Charlotte,  Essex 15 

Port  Clinton 10 

*  From  this  town  there  is  a  fine  road  to  B^ton. 


^ 


k'-^l'  Ai  .irji^-tiUi,:' 


le  intei'. 


icular  ar- 
{recaution 
It. 
[o  Cham- 


itands  the 

is  an  old 

with  las- 

ling  heavy 

ivingston, 
cbment  by 
St.  John's. 


£d  here  for 

iver  to  the 
iposite  Isle 
wrence,  26 
1  which  it 
^hitehaU. 


[ALL. 


y,  Wednes- 


10  miles. 

.11 

.12 

.15 

.  8 

.10 

.15 

.10 


.    -.-'.< 


ston. 


ihe 


XT9.il 


,•    .     ... 


TUAV£r.LKIt  ttfii 

,   Point..,. .•,•.,..... 4f 

'.Alt. ..«5 

'  the  princ'pul  places  on  the  l«k«,  se(h  Xha  l«<k»i 
lewring  Ticcfjderoga,  the  lal<e  aoon  tf  rjO'asKSii 

\t  about  nine  inilos  ilUtonco,  th» 
\>     1  the  neslcrn  short.     Tiiv_,  rj'    •  ■  .j 

tfjtn^m,  and  present  an  aspect  less,  v  ni 

iurr^undinjj;  scenca. 

.oukiriji  back  on  Tieondarojyi  froin  t ;  ;«•- 

'-■rr  appears  at  fthoul  niru  inilm  dintr*  .  an 

!ffl  to  tktt  Scotch  Carw*.  in  ?»:'-  fo  •■i 

'.  j»  are  principally  ctcftped  i^f 
'   !i:.ain,  nlopaif  t>kf  il.     T 
jy:  up  the  paspfi^'^'-  of  tb**  '•i'   ,  »<.i,>   ..  w.-i-,*  •>   ♦' ^i 

••<*:  Icff. 

At  tH«  tlKWC  wllfrW  0*» 

folinwing  nr  -   ''wi'      .      •'  »^*  ilM« 

:  ''ifc  bag^ogt..  h.>»j»iii»J  fm nlture,  sn.k   park  of  artHKljr^ 
•  s,  ami  provisions,  embarked  under  Colonul  Lcn^f, 
tr  fctrong  convoy,  m  200  batteaux  anJ  five  armed  ^1* 
The    main   army  went  via   (/wrleton,  ■j^itb    '-■>' 
itr  at.'ht;  !ua<l  and  Col.  FrRPciw  in  the  r6«r.  i-imi   -V- 
l|wH*ral  render vo«H  w««  %f  S%ecne»b«trc«gh  (Wbitc  ; 
*  'Use  vhic'i  took:  fife  a^»  !^1«!>«ftt  lodcpendenc, 
ic  attpjjtios'.  ..("  the  Bi't-'ivh,  who  .lonu  ber' 
..,    .     Gen.  Vrazoir,  wiJ;^i  ;■     ^  ?•»*■''•:  -n^*  ?vvr'i" 
&s;i,4i\sfcl.b«hinti  b^tfij  f 

«*tt!  through  the  h«»n«w  »  " 

t      '■.     lib  gun  i'^'j'V'' 
Ikn .,..-.,  ,.:w>k   two  {^tiiiilfd^.  •• 
cttfj  !S€t  fire  to  tbiB  r€»f  r :. 

•  THg-  5"*-  '■    ■ 

*           ■•    :.  iiifii.  from  Vi :  :<]«';>* y  con 

tf9'        .;  „      jnto   fo«u         :  i#een   twu 

I3ini«.»  of- mountaiaii.,  >'!?■  'I  •  .^  present  per* 

penmcular  prtK;Jp'u  ts  j  and  »  .  »t  ivater,  appearsr 

almost  tncsrely  occupied  b>  ■  ^^^Ifjw  of  the  hrtg^*- 


tiii^j..,  I 


i 


J, 


r 


Port  Hem 
Chimney 
TiconderG 
Whitehall 

For  the 

On  leai 
narrower, 
are  seen  ( 
of  Putnai 
the  surroi 

Lookini 
fiance  app 
the  left  t 
which  are 
mountain 
close  up  t 
the  left. 

At  the 
in  1777, 1 
retreat. 

Theba 
stores,  a 
under  sti 
leys.     T 
Clair  at 
general  i 
A  house 
ed  the  a 
suit.    Gi 
Reidesel 
cut  thro 
Creek, 
flotilla, 
cans  set 


Fourt 
traets 
ranges  < 
pendicu 
almost 


TUAVELLKR.  asli 

Dalliba's  Works,  )  ^     ., 

Chimney  Point 13 

Ticonderoga 15 

Whitehall 25 

For  the  principal  places  on  the  lake,  see  the  Indei. 

On  leaving  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  soon  becomes  raucU 
narrower.  At  about  nine  miles  distance,  the  Scoiehjfarms 
are  seen  on  the  western  shore.  They  are  in  the  township 
of  Putnam,  and  present  an  aspect  less  wild  than  most  of 
the  surrounding  scenes. 

Looking  back  on  Ticonderoga  from  the  south.  Mount  De- 
fiance appears  at  about  nine  miles  distance,  descending  on 
the  left  to  the  Scotch  farms,  in  the  township  of  Putnam, 
which  are  principally  cleared  land.  Beyond  it  is  another 
mountain,  sloping  like  it.  Ticonderoga  here  appears  to 
close  up  the  passage  of  the  lake,  with  Sword's  Point  on 
the  left. 

At  the  time  when  Gen.  St.  Clair  evacuated  Ticonderoga 
in  1777,  the  following  arrangements  were  made  for  the 
retreat. 

The  baggage,  hospital  fbrnlture,  sick,  park  of  artillery, 
stores,  and  provisions,  embarked  under  Colonel  Long, 
under  strong  convoy,  in  200  batteaux  and  five  armed  gal- 
leys.  The  main  army  went  via  Castleton,  with  St. 
Clair  at  the  head  and  Col.  Francis  in  the  rear,  and  the 
general  rendezvous  was  at  Skeenesborough  (Whitehall.) 
A  house  which  took  fire  on  Mount  Independence  attract- 
ed the  attention  of  the  British,  who  soon  began  the  pur- 
suit. Gen.  Frazer,  with  grenadiers  and  light  troops,  with 
Reidesel  behind  him,  followed  by  land  ;  while  Burgoyne 
cut  through  the  boom  and  bridge,  and  sailed  up  Wood 
Creek.  His  gun  boats  and  ships  overtook  the  American 
flotilla,  took  two  galleys,  blew  up  three,  and  the  Ameri- 
cans set  fire  to  the  rest  and  fled  on  to  Fort  Anne. 

The  Four  Channels. 

Fourteen  miles  from  Whitehall,  the  lake  suddenly  con- 
tracts itself  into  four  narrow  passages,  between  two 
ranges  of  mountains,  which  in  some  places  present  per- 
pendicular precipices ;  and  its  bed,  at  low  water,  appears 
almost  entirely  occupied  by  a  little  meadow  of  the  bright> 

X2 


I 


J 


22jS 


THE  NOllTHERN 


est  green,  through  which  the  channels  wind  with  beauti< 
ful  serpentines.  The  scene  is  highly  picturesque,  the 
rocky  points  on  both  sides  being  so  abrupt  as  to  seem  as 
if  forcibly  parted  by  an  earthquake,  or  a  very  swift  and 
powerful  stream.  Every  distant  object  is  entirely  shut 
out,  and  the  banks  present  a  striking  aspect  of  wildness 
and  seclusion. 

Some  distance  beyond,  where  the  creek  enters  a  small 
tract  of  level  ground,  it  passes  between  two  remarkable 
rocks,  with  precipitous  banks  like  walls,  about  50  feet 
high,  like  great  natural  bastions  erected  to  guard  the 
straitis. 

A  succession  of  beautiful  little  serpentines  are  passed, 
with  ragged  precipices,  and  many  little  patches  of  level 
ground  on  the  margin  of  the  water ;  while,  on  the  eastern 
side,  the  tow  path  accompanies  the  bank.  \ 

South  Bat 

opens  to  the  south,  and  runs  down  five  miles  between 
high  mountains.  Here  the  creek  takes  a  sudden  turn  to 
the  east, Communicating  with  it  by  a  little  channel  some- 
times  scarcely  20  yards  across.  General  Dieskau  took 
this  route  with  his  army,  in  going  towards  Fort  Edward, 
in  1755. 

Deer  are  sometimes  seen  here  in  passing.  On  the 
eastern  side  of  the  bay,  on  the  mountain,  is  a  natural  ice 
house,  about  four  miles  off. 

The  Devil's  Pulpit  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the  face  of 
a  bare  precipice  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  creek,  at  a 
considerable  elevation,  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  and  so  re- 
gular as  to  seem  a  work  of  art,  although  probably  made 
by  the  falling  of  a  mass  of  the  rock. 

Distant  mountains  open  to  the  view,  in  front,  as  we 
proceed,  with  ranges  of  willows  on  the  shore. 

(A  precipice  ou  the  east  is  a  good  mark  of  the  approach 
to  South  Bay,  in  going  up.) 

The  Elbow  is  a  narrow  part  of  the  creek,  with  two  very 
short  turns,  through  which  the  passage  requires  a  very 
exact  helm. 

East  Bay 

jstrikes  off  at  the  first  bend,  and  makes  up  five  miles,  along 
a  romantic  country.    A  sugar  loaf  hill  will  be  observed  at 


TRAVELLEK. 


227 


jeauti- 
le,  the 
lem  as 
ift  and 
iy  shut 
ildness 

a  small 
arkable 
50  feet 
aird  the 


two  very 
a  very 


es,  along 
erf  ed  at 


a  little  distance  on  the  right,  which  rises  above  Whitehall, 
and  makes  the  approach  to  that  place  quite  picturesque. 

WHITEHALL. 

On  the  top  of  a  rock  over  the  harbour  was  formerly  a 
battery,  and  in  the  town  a  block  house.  Numerous  boats 
and  great  quantities  of  lumber  are  usually  seen  here,  as 
the  Champlain  or  Northern  Canal  begins  at  the  bridge, 
where  are  two  locks,  with  a  sluiceway,  and  a  rocky  channel. 

Inns.     Rock's  and  Wing's. 

The  heights  at  this  place  were  occupied  by  Burgoyne's 
right  wing,  while  be  was  preparing  to  march  towards  Sa- 
ratoga; his  centre  was  formed  by  Gen.  Frazer;  the 
Brunswickers,  on  the  left,  rested  on  the  river  of  Castle- 
ton  ;  and  the  Hessians  were  at  the  bead  of  East  Bay. 

Roads.  Stage  coaches  go  south,  on  the  arrival  of  the 
steam  boat,  in  two  directions ;  one  on  each  side  of  Wood 
Creek  and  the  Hudson  River.  That  on  the  west  side  is 
recommended  to  those  who  are  going  directly  on  to  Alba- 
ny, as  it  passes  along  the  route  of  the  Champlain  Canal, 
by  the  "  Surrender  Ground,''  and  near  the  "  Battle  Ground 
of  Bemis's  Heights."    Coaches  also  go  to  the  Springs. 

Road  to  Boston,  178  m. 

through  Walpole  :  See  "  Roads.^  * 

To  Albany,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Hudson,  79  m. 

West  Granville 11  miles. 

East  Granville 3 

Hebron 9  \ 

Salem S 

Cambridge 16 

Pittstown    13 

Lansiugburgh 10 

Troy 3    (see  page  52) 

Albany 6     (see  page  42) 

To  Albany,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson,  68  m. 

Fort  Anne 12 

Fort  Edward 9 

Here  a  Coach  passes  to  Saratoga  Springs, 

Fort  Miller 8 

Schuylersville •• . .  •  6 


1438 


THE  NORTHERN 


British  Lines 7    (see  page  12S) 

Passing  Bem/Ws  Heights, 

Stillwater 8 

Borough ^.  3 

,         Waterford 8i 

Mohawk  Bridge 1     (see  page  57) 

The  road  accompanies  the  course  of  Wood  Creek, 
which  is  dammed  and  used  for  a  canal,  to  which  its  nar- 
rowness and  depth  give  it  a  strong  resemblance.  This 
creek  is  famous  in  the  histories  of  the  operations  in  this 
region  during  the  revolutionary  and  French  wars;  and  after 
repeated  exertions  to  clear  it  of  the  logs,  &c.  by  which  it 
was  obstructed,  it  bore  the  expeditions  against  Canada,  &c. 
which  often  passed  by  tbis  route,  from  the  days  of  Queen 
Anne.  The  scenery  is  agreeable,  though  rough;  and  there 
is  little  cultivation  off  the  road. 

Haifa  mile  north  of  the  village  of  Fort  Anne,  Wood  Creek 
makes  an  elbow  to  a  ledge  of  rocks,  so  near  that  there  is 
but  little  space  for  the  road  between.  Here  Col.  Sterry 
was  overtaken,  in  the  retreat  from  Ticonderoga,  in  1777, 
by  Burgoyne^s  troops,  and  an  engagement  took  place,  me- 
morials of  which  are  occacionally  found  in  the  soil  to 
this  day.  A  little  south,  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  from  the  stage  house,  stood  Fort  Anne,  in 
the  revolution. 

The  old  fort  of  the  same  name,  built  many  years  pre- 
viously, and  known  in  the  French  wars,  was  about  half  a 
mile  south  of  the  village,  on  a  gentle  eminence  a  little 
east  of  the  road,  where  some  remains  of  the  old  entrench- 
ments are  still  to  be  seen. 

The  remains  of  Burgoyne's  Road  begin  about  two  miles 
south  of  Fort  Anne,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  and  are  traced 
about  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  near  the  present  road,  to  a 
wood.  It  was  formed  of  logs,  and  found  necessary  to 
render  the  country  passable  with  his  cannon  and  baggage 
wagons.  The  labour  necessary  for  its  formation  super- 
added to  that  of  clearing  Wood  Creek  of  the  obstructions 
which  Gen.  Schuyler  had  thrown  into  it  after  the  retreat 
of  the  Americans,  was  one  great  cause  of  the  delay  of 
the  British  army,  on  this  part  of  the  road— a  delay  which 
allowed  the  people  time  to  resume  their  spirits,  and  the 
officers  to  layplans;  obtain  resources,  and  prepare  for  the 


TRAVELLER. 


229 


sanguinary  scenes  at  Bemis's  Heights  and  the  surrender 
at  Saratoga. 

French  Mountain  opens  to  view  a  little  beyond,  with  a 
succession  of  high  grounds  in  the  direction  of  South  Bay, 
Lake  Geoi^e,  &c. 

About  half  a  mile  above  Fort  Edward,  stands  an  old 
tree,  which  marks  the  place  where  was  perpetrated 

The  Murder  of  Mxss  McCrea. 

Miss  McCrea  lived  in  the  village  of  Fort  Edward.  In 
the  revolutionary  war,  a  young  man  named  Jones,  to 
whom  she  was  betrothed,  having  attached  himself  to  the 
English  cause,  and  joined  their  forces  in  Canada,  was  in- 
vested with  a  captain's  command  in  Gen.  Burgoyne's 
army.  After  the  retreat  of  the  Americans  from  the  lake, 
and  while  the  British  were  approaching,  he  sent  a  party 
of  Indians  to  Fort  Edward  to  bring  his  intended  bride  to 
him,  that  he  might  secure  her  safety.  She  was  very  un- 
willing to  leave  her  father's  house,  and  hesitated  some 
time  before  she  consented  to  his  request.  She  at  length, 
however,  set  out  to  join  her  lover,  and  proceeded  with 
her  savage  conductors  on  the  road  towards  Fort  Anne. 
They  had  gone  only  half  a  mile  when  the  Indians  stopped 
to  drink  at  a  spring  which  still  flows  by  the  way  side ; 
and  while  here  were  met  by  another  party  of  Indians  des- 
patched to  hasten  them  on.  Those  who  came  last,  ima- 
gining that  they  had  a  right  to  undertake  the  convoy  of 
the  lady,  as  well  as  to  receive  the  reward  which  might  be 
expected  on  her  safe  arrival,  attempted  to  take  her  under 
their  charge ;  but  the  others,  being  determined  not  to 
give  her  up  alive,  bound  her  to  a  tree  that  is  yet  standing 
near  the  spring,  and  shot  her  dead  with  their  muskets. 
Locks  of  her  hair  were  borne  to  her  lover,  to  prove  that 
the  Indians  had  performed  what  they  considered  their 
duty  to  their  employer. 

This  story  rang  through  the  country ;  and  it  was  re- 
ported that  Gen  Burgoyne  encouraged  or  at  least  permit- 
ted the  murder.  In  indignant  terms  he  denied  the  charge ; 
and  there  appears  no  probability  that  he  had  the  least 
knowledge  of  it  before  it  happened.  He,  however,  was 
justly  chai^eable  with  a  great  offence  against  humanity, 
in  bringing  tribes  of  savages  in  his  train,  whose  barbarity 


230 


THE  NORTU£UN 


he  could  never  be  sure  of  restraining,  if  ever  so  much  in- 
clined to  do  it.  With  many  persons,  in  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, the  melancholy  death  of  this  unhappy  young  lady 
raised  a  lively  sentiment  of  horror  against  their  enemies, 
and  no  doubt  animated  many  a  soldier  with  a  fresh  spirit 
of  resistance. 

Captain  Jones,  the  unfortunate  lover,  is  said  to  have 
led  a  heart-broken  life  for  a  few  years,  and  at  length  to 
have  fallen  a  victim  to  melancholy  and  self-reproach. 

Fort  Edward. 

This  village  was  built  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  fort 
raised  during  the  war  of  1755,  for  the  defence  of  this 
point  of  the  river.  It  was  first  called  Fort  Lyman,  after 
Gen.  Lyman,  of  whom  we  have  already  had  occasion  to 
make  honourable  mention  at  Lake  George.  This  spot  was 
formerly  called  the  First  Carrying  Place,  being  the  point 
where,  in  the  expeditions  against  Canada,  the  troops, 
stores,  &c.  were  landed  and  taken  by  land  to  Wood  Creek, 
a  distance  of  12  miles,  where  they  were  again  embarked. 

[Baker's  Falls,  at  Sandy  Hill, 

are  worthy  of  particular  attention,  and  are  seen  to  great 
advantage  from  some  parts  of  the  bank.  The  whole  de< 
scent  of  the  river  at  thb  place  is  about  75  feet. 

Fort  Miller. 

The  village  still  retains  the  name  of  a  fort  erected  on 
the  west  side  of  the  river,  in  former  times.  It  was  a  work 
of  insignificant  size,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and 
near 

Miller's  Falls. 

The  descent  of  the  river  here  is  rapid,  and  over  a  bro- 
ken channel.  The  falls  were  forinerly  considered  impas- 
sable with  safety,  until  General  Putnam  performed  it  while 
stationed  at  Fort  Miller,  in  the  French  war. 

The  Great  Dam. 

Above  Fort  Edward,  a  lai^e  and  expensive  dam  has 
been  built  across  the  river,  and  a  canal  cut  along  the  bank 
to  open  a  passage  for  boats.    The  dam  is  900  feet  long.] 


TRAVELLER. 


231 


ftuch  iii- 
lie  coun- 
ing  lady 
enemies, 
ish  spirit 

i  to  have 
length  to 
lach* 


nan,  after 


over  a  bro- 
ered  impas- 
ned  it  while 


ve  dam  has 
ong  the  bank 
)  feet  loDg.l 


TOUR  OP  NEW-bNGLAND. 

To  Travellers  going  Eastward  from  J^Tew-York. 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  who  is  travelling 
eastward  to  see  the  country,  to  determine  on  some  plan 
for  his  journey  before  setting  out.    *  The  mail  coach  goes 


*  The  mail  stage  sets  off  for  New-Haven  every  morning  at 
8  o'clock,  from  Jaques's  stage  office,  in  Courtlandt-street, 
passing  through  Harlem  on  Manhattan  Island,  West  Chester, 
East  Chester,  New-Rochelle,  Mamaronec,  and  Rye,  in  the 
state  of  New- York,  and  Greenwich.  Stamford,  Darien,  Nor- 
walk,  Fairfield,  Bridgeport,  Stratfora,  Milford,  and  Orange,  in 
Connecticut. 

In  Harlem,  the  road  passes  near  the  East  River,  and 
gives  a  view  of  Hurl  Gate. 

Beyond  Morrissania,  the  estate  and  mansion  of  the  Hon. 
Gov.  Morris  is  seen  on  the  right :  one  of  the  finest  for  tasteful- 
ness  and  extent  in  this  part  of  the  country.  (  See  BtUtle  of 
White  Plains f  page  29.) 

In  the  town  of  Horseneck,  33  miles  from  New- York,  is  a 
steep  hill  descending  towards  the  north,  down  which  General 
Putnam  once  effected  his  escape  from  several  British  officers 
and  soldiers  during  the  revolutionary  war,  when  returning  from 
a  scout.  He  drove  his  horse  hastily  down  the  rocky  hifl  side, 
a  little  east  of  the  road,  and  near  the  fence,  and  saved  so  much 
distance  as  to  elude  his  pursuers. 

West  Chester,  and  the  country  about  it,  were  at  that  pe- 
riod neutral  ground ;  and  Mr.  Cooper,  the  novelist,  has  made 
them  the  scene  of  his  popular  tale — "  the  Spy." 

In  the  town  of  Fairfield,  53  miles  from  New- York,  a 
mile  or  two  before  reaching  the  village,  is  a  low.  level  piece 
of  ground,  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  road,  which  was  for- 
merly an  almost  impenetrable  swamp,  and  at  an  early  period 
of  our  history,  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody  slaughter.  It  was 
hither  that  Uie  remains  of  a  powerful  and  terrible  nation  of  In- 
dians, called  Pequods,  having  fled  from  their  country  about 
New-London  and  Groton,  after  the  destruction  of  their 
fort  at  Mystic  by  Capt.  Mason,  in  1636,  were  either  kiUed 
or  taken  captive.  This  was  their  last  and  total  defeat,  and 
extinguished  their  name  as  a  nation.  Much  of  the  ground 
has  been  cleared  in  modem  times ;  and  some  reliques  have 
^een  found  to  confirni  the  traditions  of  the  neighbourhood. 


232 


THE  NORTHERN 


every  morning  to  Connecticut,  and  onward ;  but  this  is 
not  the  most  agreeable  route.  Steam  boats  go  from  New- 
York  to  the  following  places  on  the  northern  shore  of 
Long  Island  Sound  :  Norwalk,  Stamford,  Stratford,  New- 
Haven,  Connecticut  River,  (and  up  that  to  Hartford,) 
New-London,  (and  Norwich,)  Newport,  (and  Provi- 
dence.) 


ij..i 


EAST  RIVER. 


Leaving  New- York  In  any  of  the  East  River  steam 
boats,  the  traveller  has  Brooklyn  on  the  right,  (now  the 
third  town  for  size  in  the  state,  and  strictly  a  suburb  of 
the  capital.) 

The  Navt  Yard,  just  beyond. 

The  Rail  Road,  for  ships,  is  above,  on  the  west  8i4e. 

The  Penitentiary,  and  the  Fever  Hospital,  are  a 
little  beyond. 

At  Hell  Gate,  numerous  objects  present  themselves 
on  entering  the  bay.  On  the  distant  high  ground,  west, 
is  seen  the  Lunatic  Asylum ;  a  white  Block  House  on  the 
hill  on  the  east  side  ;  below  it,  an  old  fort  by  the  water; 
and  a  number  of  handsome  country  houses  along  the 
green  shore  on  the  left.  The  surface  is  broken  by  seve- 
ral rocks,  and  by  the  as;itation  of  the  water,  particularly 
at  the  whirl  called  the  Great  Pot,  a  little  north  of  the 
fort,  and  the  rapid  current  on  the  opposite  shore  known 
by  the  name  of  the  Hog*s  Back.  In  coming  from  the 
north,  the  first  view  of  New- York  is  here  presented,  be- 
tween the  western  shore  and  BlackwelPs  Island,  with  a 
shot  tower  on  the  right. 

'     '  N^w-Haven. 

This  is  decidedly  one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in 
the  United  States.    The  soil  is  not  very  good,  and  the 


On  the  east  side  of  Housatonnuc,  or  Stratford  River,  a  mile 
or  more  above  the  bridge,  was  once  a  fort,  built  by  the  In- 
dians of  the  place,  to  secure  themselves  against  the  Mohawks, 
who  had  subjugated  most  of  the  country  on  the  western  side 
of  Connecticut  River  before  the  arrival  of  the  English. 


TUA\£LL£U. 


'23'S 


i  this  is 
nNew- 
»bore  of 
d,  New- 
irtford,) 
I  Provi- 


themseWes 
ound,  west, 
jouse  on  tbe 
the  water; 
s  along  the 
ten  by  seve- 
particularly 
lorlb  of  the 
bore  known 
ng  from  the 
resented,  be- 
iland,  with  a 


d  River,  a  mile 
ailt  by  the  In- 
tbe  MobawKs, 
be  western  side 
English. 


situation  is  low ;  the  town  (or  rather  citj)  is  laid  oat  in 
squares,  with  straight  and  broad  streets,  and  the  elevated 
ground  in  the  neighbourhood  renders  the  approach  Terj 
fine  from  almost  every  direction.  It  stands  at  the  head 
of  a  spacious  bay,  with  a  light  house  on  the  eastern  point, 
a  small  fort  on  the  right  shore,  another  on  Prospect  Hill, 
and  two  Bluffs,  called  East  and  West  Rocks,  2  or  3  miles 
behind  the  town.  A  more  distant  peak  is  seen  between 
them,  which  is  Mount  Carmel.  The  steam  boats  stop  at 
the  wharf,  which  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long,  or  at 
the  bridge ;  and  in  either  case,  carriages  will  be  found  in 
waiting  to  take  travellers  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  which 
is  more  than  a  mile  distant. 

On  the  shore,  near  the  bridge,  is  a  large  building,  in* 
tended  for  a  steam  boat  betel,  but  not  open  for  visiters 
for  want  of  encouragement.  The  streets  of  the  town  are 
regular  and  pleasant,  forming  squares,  one  of  which  is  a 
green,  surrounded  by  rows  of  elms,  with  three  churehei 
and  the  State  House  in  the  middle,  and  the  College  build 
ings  occupying  the  western  side,  presenting  a  scene  pro* 
bably  not  equalled  by  any  town  of  this  size  in  the  United 
States.  The  abundance  of  fine  trees,  the  neatness  and 
beauty  of  the  dwellings^  the  good  society  of  the  place, 
and  the  distinguished  position  it  holds  as  a  seat  of  learn- 
ing, render  New*Haven  the  resort  of  great  numbers  of 
strangers  during  the  travelling  season,  and  the  temporary 
residence  of  not  a  few. 

There  is  a  Hopkins  Grammar  School  in  the  town,  and 
%  number  of  Boarding  Schools  for  young  ladies,  with  in- 
structers  in  every  branch  of  useful  and  ornamental  edu- 
cation. 

Yale  College.  This  institution,  however,  is  the 
principal  object  which  will  attract  the  attention  of  the 
stranger.  It  was  founded  in  1701,  and  first  located  at 
Killingworth,  then  removed  to  Saybrook,  and  after  a  few 
years,  permanently  fixed  in  this  town.  The  first  building 
vras  of  wood,  and  stood  near  the  corner  of  College  and 
Chapel  streets.  There  are  now  four  buildings  for  stu- 
dents, each  containing  32  rooms ;  a  Chapel,  with  a  Philo« 
sophical  chamber  and  apparatus,  and  a  Lyceum,  with  re- 
citation rooms  and  the  library.  In  the  rear  are  the  Col- 
lege Kitchen  and  Commons*  Hall,  in  a  small  building, 

Y 


S34 


THE  NORTHERN 


with  the  splendid  Mineralogical  Cabinet  above,  which  is 
the  finest  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States, 
lately  purchased  from  Colonel  Gibbs,  of  New- York.  In 
another  building  is  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  where  Pro- 
fessor Silliman  delivers  his  lectures.  The  institution 
contained  373  scholars  in  1825. 

Next  north  of  the  college  is  the  house  of  President 
Day,  and  the  professors  have  pleasant  residences  in  the 
town* 

The  Medical  Institution  is  at  the  north  end  of  Col- 
lege-street. 

The  New  Burtino  Ground  is  across  the  street  from 
the  Medical  Institution,  and  occupies  a  large  extent  of 
land,  partly  planted  with  poplars,  and  containing  a  great 
number  of  beautiful  ornaments,  of  different  designs.  It 
is  considered  the  most  beautiful  cemetery  in  this  country. 

The  Old  Burtino  Ground  was  in  the  middle  of  the 
green,  in  the  rear  of  the  Centre  Church,  and  there  are 
to  be  seen  two  ancient  stone  monuments,  of  a  small  size, 
which  are  supposed  to  mark  the  graves  of  two  of  the  re- 
gicide judges,  Whalley  and  Dixwell,  although  there  is 
much  doubt  on  the  subject.     (See  Stiles*  Judges.) 

There  are  pleasant  rides  in  various  directions  from 
New- Haven,  the  roads  being  numerous,  and  the  face  of 
the  country  favourable.  The  two  mountains  command 
extensive  views,  and  though  the  access  is  rather  fatiguing, 
the  excursion  is  recommended  to  those  who  are  fond  of 
such  enterprises. 

The  Judges'  Cave  is  on  the  summit  of  West  Rock, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff;  and  the  way  to  it  leads 
near  Beaver  Pond,  and  Pine  Hock,  (on  the  south  side  of 
which  is  a  small  cave,)  tben  between  Pine  and  West 
Rocks.  You  here  turn  off  the  road  to  the  left,  by  a  path 
across  a  brook  ;  and  a  guide  may  usually  be  obtained  at 
a  small  house  just  beyond,  who  can  show  a  horse  path  to 
the  summit. 

The  cave  is  formed  by  the  crevices  between  seven  large 
rocks,  apparently  thrown  together  by  some  convulsion. 
It  is  small,  and  entirely  above  ground,  with  a  rude  rock, 
like  a  column,  on  each  hand.  That  on  the  right  contains 
this  inscription, 

"  Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to  God," 


THAVELLBU. 


235 


'bich  IS 
States, 
rk.  In 
re  Pro- 
titution 

resident 
I  in  the 

,  of  Col- 
set  from 
jxtent  of 
;  a  great 
ligns.    It 
country, 
lie  of  the 
there  are 
imall  size, 
of  the  re- 
1  there  is 

9.)      ^ 

ions  from 
[le  face  of 
)  command 
r  fatiguing, 
ire  fond  o£ 

Vest  Rock, 
to  it  leads 
ulh  side  of 
and  West 
,  by  a  path 
obtained  at 
jrse  path  to 

seven  large 
convulsion. 
I  rude  rock, 
ght  contains 


to  remind  the  visiter  that  the  place  once  afibrded  shelter 
to  Gofle  and  Whalley,  two  of  the  judges  of  king  Charles 
the  First,  who  escaped  to  the  colonies  and  secreted  them- 
ttelvfcs  for  some  time  in  this  solitary  pUce.  They  were 
supplied  with  food  by  a  family  which  resided  near  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  and  a  little  boy  was  despatched  for 
them  every  day,  who  left  a  basket  of  provisions  on  a  rock, 
without  knowing  what  cause  he  was  subserving.  The 
hermits  were  visited  one  night  by  some  wild  animal,  pro* 
bably  a  wolf  or  a  catamount,  whose  eyes  they  saw  staring 
in  at  their  door,  which  so  terrified  them  that  they  fled 
to  their  friends,  supposing  it  to  have  been  a  lion. 

The  place  commands  an  extensive  view  upon  the  coun* 
try  helow,  with  a  large  tract  of  Long  Island  and  the  • 
Sound. 

The  Manufactory  op  Muskets  is  2  miles  north  of 
New-Haven,  on  the  road  to  Hartford  by  Meriden,  and  at 
the  foot  of  East  Rock.  It  was  established  by  Mr.  Whit- 
ney, the  well-known  inventor  of  the  Cotton  Jin.  The 
machinery  is  carried  by  the  water  of  a  small  river,  and 
the  houses  of  the  overseers  and  workmen  make  a  pretty 
appearance  on  the  shore.  Muskets  are  made  here  in  all 
their  parts,  many  of  them  for  the  arsenals  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  designed  to  make  the  arms  so  much  alike, 
that  the  parts  may  be  applied  indifferently  to  all  that  pro- 
ceed from  the  same  manufactory.  It  is  not  found  possi- 
ble, however,  to  accomplish  this  object  to  the  full  extent 
desired. 


Road  to  Miodletown. 

-,-■•,-,■■.■ 

Nortbford, 10 

Durham, 8 

Middletown, 6 

(For  a  description  of  this  beautiful  town,  see  beyond.) 

Beyond  New-Haven  a  few  miles  lies  a  cluster  of 
Islands  called  the  Thimbles,  famous  in  the  traditions  of 
the  neighbouring  Connecticut  coast,  as  the  ancient  resort 
of  Captain  Kidd,  a  notable  pirate,  whose  treasures  of  solid 
gold,  it  is  still  believed  by  some,  are  concealed  somewhere 
hereabouts.    Within  this  labyrinth  of  islands  and  head-* 


83e 


TH£  NORTUEUN 


landf  is  a  little  secluded  bay  or  inlet,  capable  of  cou- 
taining  only  one  vessel  nt  a  time,  which  bears  the  name 
of  Kidd*s  Harbour.  There  is  also  his  island,  his  chair, 
and  bis  '  punch  bowl.'  There  are  several  houses  along  the 
shore,  within  a  few  miles  of  this  place,  which  are  resorted 
to  during  the  warm  season  by  a  considerable  number  of 
visiters  (torn  the  interior,  f  -r  the  sake  of  bathing  in  the 
salt  water,  and  eating  lobsters,  black  fiah,  and  oysters. 
In  September  and  October,  ducks  may  be  found  in  great 
quantities  near  the  shore,  and  black  fidi  are  caught  in 
considerable  numbers ;  but  the  best  fishing  is  further  east, 
at  New-London,  Newport,  &c.  It  is  probable,  that  with- 
in a  few  years,  more  extensive  accommodations  will  be 
foup'  at  t|ie  places  of  resort  along  the  coast,  and  that  the 
number  of  visiters  will  be  proportionately  increased. 
The  principal  of  them  are  Sachem's  Head,  Guilford,  East 
GuUlord. 

[As  it  is  necessary  in  a  work  like  this,  we  have  under* 
taken  to  pursue  some  definite  course,  and  to  .mention 
places  and  objects  in  the  order  in  which  they  will  proba- 
bly occur  to  most  travellers.  We  shall  here  leave  Long 
Island  Sound  to  proceed  up  Connecticut  River,  and  only 
refer  the  reader  to  the  close  of  the  book  for  an  account  of 
the  coast  beyond,  and  the  following  sutijects  and  places : 
New-London,  the  Thames,  Norwich,  the  Mohegans,  the 
Pequods,  Sassacus's  Fort,  Mystic  Fort,  the  Narragansett 
shore,  Newport,  Providence,  &c.    See  Index,] 


I  :*. 


SAYBROOK. 

■;  • ;     >   i-  .  • 

At  this  place  was  the  first  settlement  made  by  Euro- 
peans on  Connecticut  River.  It  was  done  at  the  earnest 
solicitation  of  many  of  the  rightful  proprietors  of  Uie 
country  on  its  banks,  who  had  been  despoiled  of  their 
possessions  by  their  formidable  enemies,  the  Pequods. 
The  River  Indians,  as  our  old  histories  usually  denomi- 
nate the  former,  twice  made  application  to  tl^e  English  at 
Plymouth  and  at  Boston,  to  obtain  settlers  upon  their  na- 
tive soil,  offering  to  ^ve  them  land  eqough,  and  to  pay 
20i9  beaver  s]dns  annually  for  the  benefitof  their  society. 
But  the  undertakipg  if  as  cpnsidered  too  haj^ardouji,  and 
it  ^as  not  until  the  year  1635,  wl)Qn  the  Sliitcb  at  New- 


I 

grjff  T      /, 

^^N. 

1 

P?^ 

//  /  /  "-i)  y 

iva 

fi 

/r 

J^ 

/- \ 

,to 


ll 


Colchei 


,/J 


iJfaddkm 


Scv) 


i>roo/^ 


emrjfead 


-6: 


^ 


D.  S.rhroop.  SclTTT 


^ 


'PRAVELLER. 


X37 


York  showed  a  determination  to  seize  upon  the  country, 
which  they  claimed  ae  their  own,  that  a  small  detachment 
of  men  wai  sent  from  Button  by  water  to  prepare  for 
opening  a  trade  with  the  Indians,  and  to  build  a  fort  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Their  haete  wai  soon  justified 
bj  efenti :  for  immediately  after  their  landing,  a  Dutch 
▼eiiel  entered,  and  proceeding  up  to  Hartford,  landed  a 
body  of  men,  who  soon  established  themielves  in  a  fort 
they  called  Good  Hope,  on  a  spot  they  obtained  firom  Pe- 
qood  usurpers. 

The  settlement  of  Saybrook  was  begun  under  a  grant 
made  to  Lord  Say  Mid  Seal,  Lord  Brook,  and  otoers, 
by  George  Fenwick,  Esq.  who  fled  to  this  country  with  his 
nnily.  The  old  fort  stood  near  the  present  fort  hill, 
upon  an  eminence  which  has  since  been  destroyed  by  the 
waTos ;  and  the  ground  immediately  behind  it  was  after- 
wards occupied  by  the  fields  and  habitations  of  the  colo- 
nists. It  was  expected  from  the  first,  that  the  situation 
would  render  the  place  a  great  city ;  and  after  the  fear 
of  the  Indians  had  subsided,  the  whole  peninsula, 
which  bears  the  name  of  Saybrook  Point,  was  laid  out 
with  the  greatest  regularity  into  fields  of  an  equal  size, 
except  such  parts  as  were  reserved  for  the  erection  of 
public  buildings.  Yale  College  was  placed  here  for  a 
time,  and  a  great  number  of  emigrants  were  once  col- 
lected in  England,  and  prepared  for  a  voyage  to  this 
place.  Some  persons  of  high  rank  and  importance  were 
among  them,  and  it  is  a  well-authenticated  fact,  that  Oli- 
vet Cromwell  had  determined  to  embark  in  the  enterprise, 
and  was  onoe  on  the  very  eve  of  quitting  England  for 
ever,  when  some  unforeseen  occurrence  prevented  him. 

The  want  of  a  harbour,  and  the  obstacles  presented  to 
a  free  navigation  by  a  large  sand  bar  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  have  efibctually  prevented  the  expectations  of 
the  settlers  of  Saybrook  from  being  realized  ;  and  no  re- 
mains of  their  works  can  now  be  discovered,  except  in 
the  rectangular  form  of  the  fields,  and  the  cellars  of  some 
of  their  dwellings,  just  beyond  the  burying  ground,  the 
foundation  stones  of  \vhich  have  since  been  employed  in 
building  the  neighbouring  fences.  One  of  the  lai^est  ex- 
cavations is  said  to  have  been  the  cellar  of  the  old  col- 
lege building.    The  soldiers  were  frequently  attacked 

Y  2 


H'iS 


THE  NORTHERN 


Tvithin  a  short  distance  of  the  fort  by  the  Pequods,  but 
they  afterwards  ran  a  palisade  across  the  isthmus  which 
leads  from  the  main  land. 


CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


The  shores  present  a  continued  succession  of  hilly  and 
picturesque  country,  with  few  interruptions  of  level  land, 
from  a  little  above  Saybrook  as  far  as  Middletown*  The 
roughness  and  rocky  nature  of  the  soil  prevent  the  culti- 
vation of  many  mountainous  tracts ;  yet  there  are  farms 
enough  to  give  a  considerable  degree  of  softness  to  the 
scenery.  The  variety  of  rocky  and  wooded  banks,  min- 
gling with  little  patches  of  cultivated  ground,  and  the  ha- 
bitations scattered  along  the  river,  is  very  agreeable,  ehii 
often  affords  scenes  highly  picturesque  and  delightful. 


Essex,  or  Pettipaug, 

7  mUes  from  Saybrook, 

is  a  small  village,  situated  on  the  ascent  and  summit  of 
a  handsome  elevation,  and  contains  a  church  and  one  or 
two  other  public  buildings,  on  a  conspicuous  position. 
Just  above  it  is  an  island  of  some  extent,  which  divides 
the  river  and  gives  it  an  unusual  breadth. 

During  the  late  war  with  (ireat  Britain,  this  place  was 
taken  by  the  enemy,  who  came  up  the  river  in  launches, 
and  taking  the  inhabitants  by  surprise,  occupied  the  town 
for  a  few  hours. 

Some  distance  above  this  place  the  channel  lies  so  near 
the  eastern  shore,  that  the  steam  boat  passes  almost  under 
the  trees  by  which  it  is  shaded. 

Joshua's  Rock  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  a  little 
below  Brock  way's  Ferry.  It  is  said  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  a  son  of  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the  M ohegans,  (see 
J^Torwichf)  who,  according  to  a  tradition  current  in  the 
neighbourhood,  being  once  closely  pursued  by  enemies, 
threw  himself  from  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  perished  in 
the  river.' 


TRAVELLER. 


'2a» 


iods,  but 
us  'which 


hilly  and 
level  land, 
wn.    The 
the  culti- 
are  farms 
less  to  the 
anks,  min- 
uid  the  ha- 
eeable,  ^\ 
lightful. 


summit  of 
and  one  or 

lus  position. 

hich  divides 

is  place  was 
in  launches, 
led  the  town 

1  lies  so  near 
ilmost  under 

river,  a  little 
e  derived  its 
)hegans,  (see 
rrent  in  the 
by  enemies, 
perished  in 


Wapner*s  Ferry,  13  mt/es  from  Sayhrook. 
East  Haddau. 

The  landing  place  here  is  rocky,  mountainous  and  wild, 
and  a  good  specimen  of  a  lai^e  portion  of  the  town  to 
which  it  belongs.  Gen.  Champion  has  a  fine  house  built 
among  the  rocks  above,  which  adds  much  to  the  appear- 
ance of  the  place. 

This  region  is  famous  for  a  kind  of  earthquakes  and 
subterranean  sounds,  which  were  formerly  common  for 
a  short  distance  round.  They  gave  occasion  to  many 
superstitious  reports,  but  have  ceased  within  a  few  years. 
They  were  called  Moodas  Jfoises,  alter  the  Indian  name  of 
the  place. 

Large  beryls  are  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  many 
other  minerals  interesting  to  the  scientific  traveller. 

Haddah 

is  built  on  an  eminence  50  or  60  feet  high,  which  appears 
like  the  remains  of  an  old  bank  of  the  river,  descending 
a  little  meadow  which  is  covered  with  orchards,  grazing 
ground,  &c.  while  a  range  of  commanding  hills  rise  be- 
yond- 

HiGGENVM 

is  one  of  the  little  landing  places  so  numerous  along  the 
river's  course,  2  miles  above  Haddam. 

Middle  Haddam,  2  miles* 

This  is  a  pleasant  country  village,  stretching  along  a 
hill  covered  with  orchards  and  house  lots,  and  backed  by 
higher  and  wilder  eminences.  It  is  about  6  miles  below 
Middlctown. 

Looking  down  the  river  from  a  little  above  this  place,  a 
large  and  beautiful  hill  is  seen,  which  afibrds  the  richest 
scene  of  cultivation  on  this  part  of  the  river,  being  en- 
tirely covered  with  fields  and  orchards.  A  large  wooded 
eminence  is  a  little  higher  up,  and  several  high  hills,  al- 
most worthy  of'  the  name  of  mountains,  are  visible  in 
the  north. 


3.40 


THfi  NORTHERN 


The  Narrows. 

Here  the  river  turns  abruptly  to  the  west,  and  fioMfy 
between  two  lofty  hills,  which  it  has  divided  at  some  lung 
past  period,  before  which,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe, 
the  country  for  a  great  distance  above  was  covered  by  a 
lake.  A  mile  or  two  eastward  of  this  place,  there  is  the 
appearance  of  an  old  channel,  where  the  water  probably 
ran,  at  a  great  height  above  its  present  level. 

The  Lead  Mine  is  a  short  distance  from  the  southern 
bank  of  the  river,  near  two  or  three  old  houses.  {See  a 
lUtte  htyond.) 

Fort  Hill  is  the  last  elevated  part  of  the  southern 
bank.  It  was  formerly  a  little  fortress  belonging  to  Sou* 
heag,  an  Indian  chief,  whose  dominion  extended  over  the 
present  towns  of  Middletown,  Chatham,  and  Wethersfield. 
The  large  buildings  on  the  hill  in  Middletown  belong 
to  Captain  Partridge's  Academy. 

MIDDLETOWN      !:-^*:r  ■- 

is  beautifully  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river, 
where  the  water  is  spread  out  to  a  considerable  breadth, 
and  disappears  so  suddenly  at  the  Narrows,  that  from 
many  points  of  view,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  small  lake, 
with  high,  sloping,  and  cultivated  shores.  This  is  a  most 
agreeable  residence  for  strangers,  particularly  for  families, 
during  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  and  will  no  doubt 
be  soon  supplied  with  more  numerous  and  extensive  ac- 
commodations. 

The  large  hotel  has  recently  been  converted  into  a  pri- 
vate boarding  house,  by  Mr.  FranciSf  and  is  very  well 
kept.  Mrs.  SujathePs  and  Mr,  Boardman's  (in  the  same 
street,)  are  large  inns. 


stotU 
tatioi 
brickj 
the  c 
wish 
secon 
colleg 
size  V 
The 


The  Military  and  Scientific  Academt  of  Capt. 

Partridge. 

This  institution  was  removed  hither  in  1825,  funds 
being  contributed  for  the  erection  of  the  buildings,  which 
consist  of  a  principal  one,  160  feet  long:,  50  broad,  and  4 


19  about 


TKAVELLEB. 


241 


I  flows 
DO  lung 
tieaeve, 
ed  by  a 
I  is  the 
trobably 

outhern 
(See  a 


J25,  funds 
ngs,  which 
oad,  and  4 


stories  high,  with  rooms  for  scholars ;  a  chapel  with  reci- 
tation rooms  above,  both  of  stone ;  and  an  eating  hall  of 
brick,  120  feet  long,  with  a  piazza  facing  the  parade.  For 
the  convenience  of  the  friends  of  students,  who  may 
wish  to  take  up  their  lodgings  in  the  neighbourhood,  the 
second  story  is  partly  designed  for  their  use.  A  new 
college  building  is  to  be  erected  this  year,  of  the  same 
size  with  the  first. 

The  course  of  instruction  resembles,  in  general^  that 
pursued  at  West  Point ;  but  it  is  not  like  that  under  the 
patronage  of  the  United  States.  The  scholars  wear  the 
dress  of  Cadets,  and  are  regularly  drilled  to  the  use  of 
small  arms  and  cannon.  The  regulations  of  the  school 
are  on  a  military  plan,  sentinels  are  posted  at  the  gatesi 
and  the  scholars  are  rarely  permitted  to  leave  the  yard. 

From  the  top  of  the  Chapel  is  a  delightful  view  of  a 
large  extent  of  country,  highly  varied  by  cultivation,  as 
well  as  the  natural  form  of  its  surface.  Mount  Tom  is 
seen  northward,  and  Indian  bill,  immediately  west,  de- 
rives its  name,  as  is  supposed,  from  its  having  been  a 
watch  post  in  ancient  times. 

The  Quarries  of  Freestone, 

on  the  opposite  shore,  have  furnished  a  valuable  building 
material  for  some  years,  and  have  been  worked  to  a  con- 
siderable extent. 

Manhfactorics. 

Cotton,  Woollen,  and  a  Rifle  Manufactory,  are  near  the 
bridge  at  the  south  end  of  the  street.  Col.  North's  Pistol 
Manufactory,  is  situated  two  or  three  miles  west  of  the 
town  ;  besides  several  mills,  &c. 

There  are  various  pleasant  rides  in  this  neighbourhood, 
particularly  to  two  picturesque  Water  Falls  in  Middlefield. 
In  the  direction  of  one  of  them  is  Laurel  Grove,  where  the 
road  is  shaded  for  near  half  a  mile  with  those  shrubs, 
which,  in  the  season,  are  covered  with  flowers. 

The  Lead  Mine 
is  about  two  miles  below  the  town,  on  the  south  shore  of 


242 


THE  NORTHERN 


the  river,  accessible  only  on  foot  or  in  a  boat,  where  are 
several  old  shafts,  which  were  sunk  in  the  Revolutionary 
war,  in  a  slate  rock.  The  ore  is  sulpburet  of  lead,  in 
veins  of  quartz,  partly  crystallized,  and  affording  a  few 
specimens  of  fluate  of  lime,  and  other  minerals. 

The  Cobalt  Mine  is  about  five  miles  east,  in  Chatham, 
at  the  foot  of  Rattle  Snake  Hill.  It  is  not  worth  working, 
at  the  usual  price  of  the  metal.  Specimens  of  peach  bloom 
of  Cobalt  may  be  picked  up  among  the  rubbish.  Just 
southerly  from  it  is  a  very  pretty  water  fall,  about  thirty 
feet  high. 

A  number  of  German  families  live  in  the  neighbourhood ; 
the  descendants  of  miners,  who  came  from  Europe  some 
years  ago  to  work  the  mine. 

Upper  Houses,  \ 

a  village  of  Middletown,  2  miles  above. 

From  a  hill  1  mile  further  is  a  very  pleasant  view  to- 
wards  the  south,  presenting  the  river,  with  the  meadow 
and  hills,  as  well  as  Middletown  and  the  fine  high  grounds 
in  its  rear.  The  small  divisions  of  the  soil  and  the  den- 
sity of  the  population,  as  well  as  the  fertility  of  the 
ground,  and  the  frequency  of  school  houses  and  churches, 
here  show  one  of  those  interesting  and  beautiful  scenes 
characteristic  of  Connecticut  River,  and  which  the  travel- 
ler will  find  repeated  all  along  its  course  far  into  New- 
Hampshire  and  Vermont. 

RocKT  Hill,  5  miles,  a  parish  of  Wethersfield.  About 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  tavern,  you  reach  the  brow  of 
a  hill,  which  commands  a  rich  prospect  of  many  miles  of 
the  Connecticut  Valley.  Wethersfield  lies  in  front,  and  the 
variegated  hills  and  plains  around  belong  to  numerous 
townships  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  enclosed  by  ranges 
of  distant  high  land,  which  direct  the  course  of  its  chan- 
nel. On  the  left,  about  15  miles  off,  is  the  ridge  of  Tal- 
cott  mountain ;  and  the  two  h\v^  peaks  in  the  north  are 
Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke,  near  Northampton,  at  the 
distance  of  about  50  miles. 

Wethersfield,  3  miles  from  Hartford.  This  place 
hasa  fine  light  soil,  an  extensive  level,  probably  once  the 
bottom  of  a  lake  since  drained  by  the  deepening  of  the 


iiverj 
of  on 
rious 
laboui 
the  vn 


Inns, 
This 
consider 
at  wbich 
TheC 
the  stree 
ancient 
was  amo 
a  conspic 
of  the  to 
course  of 
towards  t 
fpss  than 


TRAVELLER. 


243 


nver^s  channel.  It  is  peculiarly  favourable  to  the  culture 
of  onions,  which  are  exported  in  great  quantities  to  va- 
rious parts  of  the  country,  the  West  Indies,  &c.  The 
labour  of  this  culture  is  performed  almost  exclusively  by 
the  women  and  children  ;  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the 
men  of  the  lower  class  are  generally  as  imprudent  and 
idle,  as  their  wives  are  industrious  and  economical.  This 
is  not  said  for  the  purpose  of  scandalizing,  but  with  the 
hope  of  improving  them. 

Wethersfield  was  one  of  the  three  earliest  settlements 
made  by  white  men  in  Connecticut :  or  rather  it  may 
strictly  claim  the  precedence  of  all,  for  although  houses 
vrere  first  built  here,  as  well  as  at  Hartford  and  Windsor 
in  1635,  three  or  four  men  came  to  this  place  the  year  pre* 
vious,  and  spent  the  winter.  The  English  received  their 
lands  from  the  original  river  Indians,  and  acknowledged 
their  right  of  soil,  although  this  tract  of  the  country  was 
found  by  them  in  the  power  of  the  Pequod  nation,  who  had 
obtained  it  by  force ;  and  they  succeeded  in  re-establish- 
ing the  former,  for  which  object  they  had  been  invited 
and  received  with  cordiality.  Depredations  were  com- 
mitted on  their  settlements  for  the  first  few  years ;  but  as 
they  were  done  by  the  Pequods,  the  distinction  of  that 
nation  at  Mystic  Fort,  by  Capt.  Mason,  in  1636,  put  an 
end  to  them  entirely,  and  this  part  of  the  river  was  never 
afterwards  made  the  theatre  of  war.  ■-. 


HARTFORD, 


■J 


iV.-. 


Inns.    Bennet's  GofTee  House,  MpH^nh,  Ripley's. 

This  is  the  semi-capital  of  the  state,'luid  a  place  of 
considerable  business,  as  well  as  one  ot  the  great  points 
at  which  the  principal  roads  concentrate. 

The  Charter  Oak.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  in 
the  street  which  runs  east  from  the  south  church,  is  the 
ancient  and  respectable  seat  of  the  Wyllys  family,  which 
was  among  the  early  settlers  of  Hartford,  and  have  made 
a  conspicuous  figure  in  th^  history  of  the  state,  as  well  as 
of  the  town,  by  supplying  the  Secretary's  office  for  a  long 
course  of  time.  Col.  George  \Vyllys,  who  left  the  office 
towards  the  end  of  the  last  century,  was  elected  to  it  no 
Ip?s  than  sixty-two  years  in  succession  by  the  freemen  of 


244 


THE  NORTHERN 


Connecticut,  and  performed  the  duties,  at  every  session 
during  the  whole  tine,  both  regular  and  adjourned.  The 
house  if  a  respectable  old  building,  in  a  fine  situation, 
with  a  garden  behind  it  having  a  fish  pond  in  the  middle. 
The  first  house  built  on  the  spot  stood  a  little  north-east 
of  the  present  one,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  cellar,  and  was 
calculated  for  defence  against  the  Indians,  but  was  burnt 
down.  The  principal  object  of  curiosity  here  is,  however, 
the  fine  old  oak,  which  stands  on  the  street  in  front.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  a  forest  tree  before  the  land  was  cleared, 
yet  it  appears  as  firm  and  vigorous  as  ever.  In  a  bole  in  its 
trunk  was  hidden  the  charter  of  the  colony,  when  Sir 
Edmund  Andross  sent  to  demand  it  in  1687  ;  and  there 
it  remained  for  some  years. 

When  the  charter  had  been  delivered  up,  and  the  OfH- 
cers  were  assembled  at  the  inn,  which  was  in  Mslin- 
street,  opposite  the  middle  church,  they  produced  it  in 
the  evening  upon  a  table  in  the  front  room ;  and  the 
weather  being  warm,  the  windows  were  left  open,  a 
guard  being  stationed  at  the  door.  At  some  preconcerted 
signal,  some  persons  in  the  street  taking  off  their  jackets, 
and  winding  them  in  their  hands,  threw  them  at  the  can- 
dles and  extinguished  them ;  and  on  relighting  them  the 
charter  was  missing.  This  interesting  document  is  still 
preserved  in  the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  the  state. 

The  ,^8ylum  for  the  educatmi  of  the  DeaJ  and  Dumb  is 
about  a  mile  west  of  the  town,  on  Tower  Hill.  It  was  the 
earliest  institution  of  the  kind  in  America,  and  is  under 
the  direction  of  a  board  of  trustees,  who  publish  annual 
reports  of  its  condition.  Mr  Gallaudet,  a  gentleman  who 
was  sent  to  Europe  to  qualify  himself  for  the  purpose,  is 
principal,  and  Mr.  Le  Clerc,  a  favourite  pupil  of  the  Abbe 
Sicard  of  Paris,  occupies  the  next  station.  He  is  a  man 
of  superior  talents  although  deaf  and  dumb. 

The  principal  building  is  large,  ornimented  with  pilasters, 
and  surrounded  by  a  garden  and  pleasant  grounds ;  but 
some  change  is  judged  proper  in  its  arrangements.  The 
house  of  the  superintendant  is  ne;«r  o. ^  and  the  t. hole  en- 
joys a  fine  situation  with  a  commanding  prospect  and  a 
healthy  neigbourhood. 

The  stranger  will  rdceive  uncommon  gratification,  from 
II.  visit  (o  this  benevolent  institution  on  the  days  appoint- 


T11AV£LL£R. 


245 


session 
.    The 
tuation, 
middle, 
rth-east 
sind  ivas 
:is  burnt 
lOwevcr, 
nt.  It  is 
cleared, 
ole  in  its 
;vhen  Sir 
nd  there 

the  OfS- 
ill  Mjiin- 
ced  it  in 
;  and  the 
open,  a 
concerted 
ir  jackets, 
,t  the  can- 
them  the 
ent  is  still 
tate. 

I  Dumb  is 
t  was  the 
1  is  under 
sh  annual 
eman  who 
mrpose,  is 
f  the  Abbe 
e  is  a  man 

h  pilasters, 
lunds;  but 
;nts.  The 
J  Tvhole  en- 
pect  and  a 

ation,  from 
rs  appoint- 


ed for  the  admission  of  visiters.  The  deaf  and  dumb  are 
generally  remarkable  for  close  observation,  readiness  of 
apprehension,  an  eager  thirst  for  knowledge,  and  a  very 
retentive  recollection  ;  and  as  all  their  instruction  is  com- 
municated through  the  sight,  can  be  obtained  only  by  the 
strictest  attention,  and  the  abstraction  of  the  mind  from 
every  other  subject,  the  appearance  of  a  class  absorbed 
in  their  lesson  is  calculated  to  produce  feelings  of  an  un- 
usual  and  highly  interesting  character. 

Every  deaf  and  dumb  person  soon  forms  a  language  of 
natural  signs,  by  which  he  is  able  to  communicate  the 
most  necessary  ideas  on  first  arriving  at  the  Asylum.  He 
is  then  taught  the  alphabet  in  use  here,  which  is  made  by 
the  fingers  of  one  hand ;  after  which  the  names  of  visible 
objects  are  easily  spelled,  and  the  order  of  their  letters 
committed  to  memory.  Absent  objects  and  abstract  ideas 
arc  communicated  by  many  ingenious  devices,  which  it  is 
impossible  here  to  describe;  and  arbitrary  signs  are  adopted 
to  represent  such  as  may  require  them.  Definitions  are 
very  extensively  resorted  to;  and  they  are  always  of 
the  most  strictly  logical  character.  Indeed  the  whole 
system  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and  beautiful  of  the 
kind  ever  formed  on  philosophical  principles. 

The  number  of  scholars  is  generally  about  70.  Some 
of  them  arc  supported  by  a  fund  belonging  to  the  insti- 
tution, and  others  by  the  states  of  Massachusetts,  New- 
Hampshire,  &c.  Similar  institutions  exist  in  the  city 
and  state  of  New-York,  Philadelphia,  &c.  and  one  has 
lately  been  provided  for  in  Kentucky. 

The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  is  a  little  south  of  the  city, 
and  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  being  a  stone  building 
150  feet  long  and  50  wide,  the  wings  having  three 
stories,  and  the  main  building  4.  It  is  capable  of  con- 
taining about  50  patients,  and  is  warmed  by  flues.  The 
grounds  connected  with  the  institution  include  about  17 
acres. 

Washington  College  is  sicuated  west  of  the  main  street, 
in  the  south  part  of  the  town.  It  is  an  Episcopal  institu- 
tion, and  has  at  present  two  stone  buildings  erected :  one 
for  the  students,  150  feet  long,  4  stories  high,  with 
accommodations  'for  96  pupils ;  and  a  chapel,  which  has 
!\lro  rooms  for  recitation,  the  library,  &c.    The  college 

Z    • 


246 


THE  NORTHERN 


bills  are  $52  50  per  annum  in  all ;  and  the  atnd^nts 
board  in  private  families  at  the  rate  of  $1  50  per  week. 

Remarks  to  the  Traveller  at  Hartford. 

From  Hartford  there  are  stage  coaches  running  in 
various  directions :  north,  one  on  each  side  of  Con- 
necticut River ;  north-eastf  to  Boston ;  east^  to  Provi- 
dence;  south,  to  New-Haven  and  New- York,  (besides 
the  steam  boats  to  the  latter  place ;)  west,  to  Litchfield* 
and  Poughkeepsie ;  and  north-west,  to  Albany. 

The  road  to  Boston  leads  through  Stafford  Springs,  (20 
miles,)  and  Worcester,  but  is  otherwise  very  uninterest* 
ing  and  quite  hilly.    (See  next  page.) 

The  traveller  in  New- England  is  advised  to  take  the 
route  up  Connecticut  River,  which  is  the  most  fertile, 
wealthy,  and  beautiful  tract  of  the  country ;  and  to  return 
by  the  way  of  Boston  and  Providence.  This  is  the  route 
we  propose  to  pursue  ;  but  the  traveller  can  vary  from  it 
as  he  pleases.  He  will  find  such  information  as  this  little 
volume  is  able  to  afford  him  by  referring  to  the  index. 

The  fertility  of  the  meadows  in  the  Connecticut  Valley 
is  almost  proverbial ;  and  after  what  the  stranger  has 
seen  of  its  banks  at  Middletown  and  Hartford,  he  will 
learn  with  gratification  that  neither  the  soil  nor  the  beauty 
of  their  cultivation  degenerates  for  several  hundred  miles 
northward.  The  whole  country  is  thickly  populated: 
neat  and  beautiful  villages  being  met  with  at  invervals  of 
a  few  miles ;  and  the  general  intelligence  derived  from 
universal  education  gives  an  elevated  aspect  to  society. 
The  accommodations  for  travellers  are  generally  very 
comfortable,  and  sometimes  uncommonly  good  and  ele- 
gant ;  the  scenery  is  ever  new  and  varying ;  many  places 
have  traits  of  interest  in  their  history ;  and  the  communi- 
cation is  easy,  from  many  points  of  the  route,  with  the 
principal  places  on  the  east  and  west.     Besides  all  this, 


*  At  the  Foreign  Mission  School  at  Cornwall,  Connecticut, 
there  were,  in  1825,  7  Sandwich  Islanders,  3  Iroquois,  3  Choc- 
taws,  3  Chinese,  2  Senecas,  2  Cherokecs,  2  Chippcwas,  2 
Osages,  1  Tuscarora,  I  Oneida,  1  Mohegan,  1  Narragansett, 
I  Portuguese,  1  Jew,  and  2  Americans.    Total,  83. 


TRAVELLER. 


247 


the  roads  are  peculiarly  fine,  for  they  generally  run  along 
the  river's  bank,  which  is  almost  without  exception  level 
and  pleasant,  and  formed  of  a  soil  well  fitted  to  the  pur- 
pose. 

The  western  side  of  the  river  is  generally  to  be  pre- 
ferred ;  but  as  there  are  good  roads  on  both  sides,  and 
some  villages  and  other  objects  worthy  of  equal  notice 
on  the  eastern  shore,  and  good  ferries  or  bridges  are  to 
be  met  with  ev^  /y  few  miles,  it  will  be  agreeable  occasion- 
ally to  cross  and  recross.  Those  who  travel  along  the 
course  of  the  Connecticut  twice,  would  do  well  to  go  up 
on  one  side  and  return  on  the  other.  This  is  the  most  di- 
rect route  to  the  White  Hills  or  White  Mountains  of  New- 
Hampshire.  Those  who  go  to  Boston  will  pass  through 
Worcester. 

Worcester  is  one  of  the  finest  villages  in  New-Eng- 
land. The  country  around  it  is  rich  and  variegated,  and 
the  dwellings  have  an  air  of  elegance  which  does  great 
credit  to  the  taste  as  well  as  the  wealth  of  its  inhabitants. 
Brick  is  extensively  used  in  building.  The  court  house, 
bank,  &c.  stand  on  the  principal  street ;  and  east  of  it  the 
county  house  and  the  building  of  the 

American  Historical  Society. 

This  is  an  institution  formed  by  Mr.  Isaiah  Thomas, 
many  years  a  printer  in  this  place,  for  the  truly  impor- 
tant purpose  of  preserving  every  thing  relating  to  the  his- 
tory, traditions,  &c.  of  the  country.  He  has  made  it  a 
donation  of  his  valuable  library,  between  7  and  8000  vo- 
lumes, with  many  files  of  newspapers  ;  and  built  at  his  own 
expense  the  handsome  edifice  in  which  it  is  deposited. 
Many  interesting  curiosities  have  also  been  collected 
here  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  but  the  institution  has 
not  funds  to  support  a  keeper,  and  the  cabinet  has  not 
(unless,  perhaps,  recently)  been  opened  to  the  public. 
The  building  cost  about  $3000.  It  contains  the  following 
apartments :  library,  in  the  rear  of  the  second  story  and 
cabinet  in  front ;  below  are  the  keeper^s  room  and  two 
others. 

[From  Worcester  to  Leicester,  5  miles;  East  Brook- 
field,  7;  Brookfield,  3;  Ware  Manufactories,  5;  ^eU 
chertown,  10 ;  Northampton,  15.]  /,  . 


24d 


TUB  NOKTHBRN 


RovTB  UP  Connecticut  River. 

Leaving  Hartford, 

The  State  Arsenal  is  seen  on  the  right  hand,  a  mile 
from  the  city ;  and  many  pleasant  views  are  enjoyed. 

[East  Hartford,  opposite  Hartford,  has  a  sandy  soil, 
but  the  street,  as  well  as  that  of  East  Windsor,  next 
north  of  it,  is  shaded  with  rows  of  fine  elms.  The  road 
crosses  Podunk  River,  by  a  small  bridge,  about  four  miles 
from  Hartford,  on  the  north  bank  of  which,  on  the  left 
hand,  was  once  the  fort  of  the  powerful  tribe  of  Podunk 
Indians,  who  had  their  settlements  on  this  winding  stream, 
and  some  of  their  broken  implements  are  occasionally 
found  in  the  soil.  During  the  life  of  Eliot,  the  Indian 
Apostle,  he  requested  that  the  Sachems  of  this  na^cn 
would  meet  him  at  Hartford,  where  he  preached  to  the&i 
the  doctrines  of  Christianity,  and  invited  them  to  receive 
the  salvation  it  offers  to  all  mankind ;  but,  after  a  consul- 
tation,  they  haughtily  rejected  his  proposition.  The 
nation  was  so  powerilil,  that  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the 
Mohegans,  was  once  daunted  by  the  show  of  their  force, 
although  he  had  marched  to  attack  them  with  his  army, 
and  afterwards  chose  to  iui  jaidate  them  by  the  following 
stratagem  :  he  sent  one  of  his  Indians  to  burn  a  Pequod 
wigwam,  in  the  night,  near  the  fort,  who  then  fled,  as  be 
was  directed,  leaving  some  Mohawk  arms  on  the  ground. 
This  made  the  Pequods  believe  that  that  nation  had 
leagued  with  Uncas,  according  to  an  intimation  he  had 
before  given,  and  they  immediately  sued  for  peace. 

[Bissel's  tavern,  8  miles  from  Hartford.  In  going  to  the 
ferry,  the  road  passes  the  Bissel  farm,  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  country.] 

Windsor. 

It  has  been  mentioned  before  that  this  place  was  settled 
as  eariy  as  1635.  A  few  months  after  the  building  of 
the  fort,  (probably  a  block  house,)  the  Dutch  garrison 
at  Hartford  made  a  secret  march  against  it,  expecting 
to  take  it  by  surprise ;  but  on  arriving  at  the  place  they 
found  reason  to  give  up  their  enterprise,  and  returned 
without  firing  a  gun.    The  country  was  formerly  very 


TUAVELLER. 


24& 


yopulous  in  Indians,  the  six  miles  square  of  which  the 
town  was  formedy  and  which  extended  on  both  sides  of 
the  river,  containing  ten  separate  sachemdoms,  or  petty 
Indian  tribes. 

There  is  a  school  establbhed  in  this  town  on  the  Fellen- 
berg  plan,  in  which  agriculture  is  taught  both  theoreti- 
cally and  practically,  a  good  farm  adjoining  it  being  open 
to  the  examination  and  experiments  of  the  students. 

The  seat  of  the  late  Chief  Justice  Oliyer  Ellsworth 
stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  street,  above  the  town,  nine 
miles  from  Hartford.  It  is  distinguished  by  columns,  and 
surrounded  by  trees.  He  was  born  in  a  house  opposite. 
He  was  in  Europe  as  minister  for  the  United  States  to 
France. 

After  turning  a  corner  a  little  beyond  this  place,  the 
new  road  runs  north  by  a  tavern,  while  the  old  one,  across 
a  sand  plain,  keeps  straight  on.  The  former  is  recom- 
mended, as  it  passes  for  several  miles  along  the  bank  of 
Connecticut  River.  ' 

Warrrouse  Point  is  seen  on  the  east  side.  Here 
vessels  are  built,  and  the  place  carries  on  a  little  trade. 


5;         .     -     i,  SUFFIELD       ,    .'      ;  "!■'■ 

is  a  very  pleasant  town  about  a  mile  west  of  the  road,  and 
has  a  good  inn,  and  a  mineral  spring  in  its  vicinity,  which 
has  been  the  resort  of  considerable  company.  The  villi^e 
street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  long  and  beautiful  hill, 
with  neat  houses  and  white  fences  on  both  sides,  and  the 
home  lots  sloping  east  and  west  towards  the  low  ground. 
Some  of  the  houses  are  large  and  elegant. 

SuFFiELD  Springs.  About  a  mile  south-west  of  the 
street  is  a  mineral  spring  of  slightly  sulphurous  qualities. 
A  house  has  been  built  there  about  20  years,  which  has  ac- 
commodations for  50  persons,  with  baths  of  different  de- 
scriptions.  The  spring  is  in  swampy  land,  and  its  quali- 
ties are  considered  valuable,  particularly  in  cases  of  cuta- 
neous disorders.  The  place  is  pleasant,  in  the  midst  of 
a  rich  rural  scene,  with  a  pretty  flower  garden,  &c.  calcu- 
lated to  render  it  an  agreeable  resort,  which  it  will)  no 
doubt,  in  due  time  become. 


■*•»" 


{)50 


'i;H£  NORTHERN 


If  it  i«  intended  to  stop  for  the  night  irithin  a  ten 
nilef ,  the  best  inn  is  the  Columbian  Hotel,  at  Springfield, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  To  reach  it  in  going  north, 
tiun  ofi'  to  the  right  through  the  meadows,  some  time 
after  passing  Westfield  River,  which  will  lead  directly  to 
the  Springfield  bridge.  This  is  substantially  built,  and 
well  protected  by  a  roof. 

Springfield. 

Columbian  Hotel. 

This  is  a  flourishing  town,  standing  at  the  foot  of  a  high 
hill,  the  side  of  which  is  ornamented  with  fine  buildings, 
the  residences  of  some  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  and 
the  top  occupied  by  the  United  States  Arsenal.  Thiai  es- 
tablishment occupies  a  large  space  of  ground,  and  cb3i> 
mands  a  fine  view.  The  buildings  containing  the  work 
shops  for  manufacturing  small  arms,  the  arsenal,  barracks, 
&c.  are  surrounded  by  a  high  wall ;  and  the  habitations 
of  the  workmen,  seen  in  several  neighbouring  streets,  are 
generally  neat  houses  with  small  gardens.  Some  of  the 
principal  buildings  within  the  walls  were  burnt  about  two 
years  ago,  but  have  since  been  rebuilt,  viz.  three  build* 
ings,  each  120  feet  long,  one  of  which  is  a  store  house  of 
arms.  Access  may  be  obtained ;  but  it  is  unnecessary  to 
give  a  particular  description  of  the  establishment,  as  it 
bears  a  general  resemblance  to  most  others  of  this  kind  in 
the  country,  although  one  of  the  largest  size.  The  num- 
ber of  workmen  required,  which  is  about  260,  has  a  fa* 
vourable  effect  un  the  business  and  prosperity  of  the  place. 
About  13000  muskets  are  made  here  annually,  or  60  a 
day.  There  were  manufactured  here,  in  1825,  15000 
muskets,  15000  screw  drivers,  15000  wipers,  1500  ball 
screws,  1500  spring  vices,  and  437  arm  chests.  Expen* 
diture,  ^179,983.  The  manufactories  on  Mill  River,  a 
little  south  of  the  arsenal,  are  various  and  well  worthy  of 
observation,  at  least,  in  passing.  A  road  that  runs  along 
the  bank,  passes  a  number  of  flour  mills,  &c.  belong- 
ing to  individuals,  besides  the  Upper,  Middle,  and  Lower 
Water  Shops,  connected  with  the  arsenal.  There  are 
three  dams  of  hewn  stone,  and  the  buildings,  in  plan  and 
construction,  are  well  calculated  for  service  and  duraWlt- 


TRAVELLER. 


361 


a  lew 
igfield, 
north, 
le  time 
jctly  to 
It,  and 


[>fahigli 
uildings, 
ints,  and 
Thia  OS- 
ind  cbaa- 
the  tvork 
barracks, 
ibitatiuns 
leetsi  are 
tne  of  the 
ibout  two 
•ee  build- 
B  house  of 
ccssary  to 
lent,  as  it 
lis  kind  in 
The  num- 
,  has  a  fa* 
the  place, 
y,  or  60  a 
25,  15000 
15U0  ball 
.     Expen* 
I  River,  a 
worthy  oi 
runs  along 
tc.  belong" 
and  Lower 
There  are 
in  plan  and 
id  dtiraWVi- 


tj.  The  water  shops  contain  in  all  18  water  wheels,  10 
trip  hammers,  28  forges,  9  coal  houses,  and  have  connect^ 
ed  witli  them  several  houses  and  stores. 

The  cown  is  ornamented  with  many  fine  elms  and  other 
trees ;  and  there  are  two  very  handsome  churches.  It 
was  originally  considered  within  the  limits  of  Connecticut 
Colony,  but  at  length  incorporated  with  Massachusetts. 
A  tribe  of  Indians  lived  for  some  years  on  Fort  Hill ;  but 
being  won  over  to  King  Philip's  party,  in  1675,  they  as- 
sumed a  hostile  air,  fired  upon  some  of  the  inhabitants  who 
were  going  to  their  fort,  and  burnt  a  part  of  the  town. 

In  1786,  during  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  he  attacked  the 
armoury,  at  the  head  of  a  strong  parly  of  undisciplined 
men.  Gen.  Shcpard,  who  had  command  at  the  place,  at- 
tempted to  dissuade  them  firom  their  attempt,  and  finally 
drove  them  ofi"  by  firing  twice.  The  first  shot,  over  their 
heads,  dispersed  the  raw  troops,  and  the  second  drove  off 
the  remainder,  who,  being  about  200  revolutionary  sol- 
dierd,  did  not  desist  until  they  had  lost  a  few  of  their  men. 
This  was  the  first  check  the  insurrection  received,  which 
was  put  down  without  much  subsequent  trouble. 

West  Sprinofibld  has  a  fine  street,  shaded  with  lai^e 
elms,  and  containing  some  handsome  houses.  It  is  26 
miles  from  Hartford,  and  about  17  miles  from  North- 
ampton. There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  road  on  the  brow 
of  a  hill  a  little  north  of  the  town,  near  a  church,  which 
overlooks  the  river  and  an  extent  of  country  on  each  side, 
with  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke  in  front.  On  Chicopee 
River  are  some  large  CoWm  Manufaetories. 

South  Hadlet  Falls. 

The  village  and  locks  are  on  the  east  side  of  the  river. 

The  whole  fall  of  the  river  at  South  Hadlcy  is  52  feet, 
but  at  the  lower  falls  only  32.  There  is  a  canal  2^  miles 
long  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  cut  through  a  slate 
rock  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  in  some  places 
very  deep.  The  dam  is  8  feet  high.  There  are  five  locks 
near  the  tavern,  and  one  above.  The  toll  here  is  90  cents. 
They  catch  shad  below  the  falls,  though  the  number  has 
greatly  diminished  within  a  few  years :  now  about  7000 
annually.  There  is  a  ferry  here,  which  is  safe,  but  the 
^vater  runs  rerv  swffttv. 


./.:* 


si52 


THE  NORTHEUN 


For  several  miles  before  reaching  Mount  Tom,  the  roau 
runs  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  showing  its  banks,  in 
many  places,  roughened  with  rocks.  Its  channel  is  in 
one  place  crossed  by  the  dam,  which  turns  the  water  into  the 
South  Hadley  Canal.  The  river  makes  an  abrupt  turn 
some  miles  above,  running  between  Mount  Tom  on  the 
south  and  Mount  Holyoke  on  the  north ;  and  when  the 
scene  opens  again,  it  discloses  a  charming  and  extensive 
plain,  formed  of  the  meadows  on  the  river's  bank,  and 
evidently  once  the  site  of  a  large  lake,  when  the  water 
was  restrained  by  the  barrier  between  the  mountains. 
This  plain  is  joiie  of  the  richest,  and  by  far  the  most  ex< 
tensive  and  beautiful  on  the  river. 

Northampton.  r-  •       j  ^ 

This  town  is  situated  at  the  vtrestern  side  of  the  plain, 
k  milef  from  the  river,  and  is  a  favourite  place  of  resort 
for  travellers ;  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
New-England  villages,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  charming 
country,  and  lies  near  to  Mount  Holyoke,  which  com- 
mands a  view  of  the  whole.  The  streets  are  irregular, 
but  some  of  them  shady  and  delightful  in  summer,  being 
also  ornamented  with  many  neat  houses.  It  is  a  place 
of  considerable  business ;  and  the  soil  makes  valuable 
farms.* 


*  Canal. — Mr.  Kurd's  estimate  of  the  whole  estpense  of  the 
Hampshire  and  Hampden  Canal  is  given  as  follows : 

Canal |204,210 

Feeders f  44,856 

Cost  of  lauds  and  contingent  expenses    18,500 

Total  expense    -        -       .        .        $267,566 

The  length  of  the  canal  is  29  1-2  miles,  divided  into  56  sec- 
tions of  168  rods  each.  It  is  now  pretty  well  ascertained,  that 
the  stock  will  be  taken  up,  and  that  the  canal  will  be  made. 

The  structure  of  the  country  between  this  place  and  New- 
Haven  is  peculiarly  favourable  to  the  construction  of  a  canal. 
The  whole  route  of  both  canals,  excepting  a  few  miles  near 
New-Haven,  is  on  the  bottom  of  that  lake,  which,  at  some  re- 
mote period,  extend,ed  from  Northfield  nearly  to  New-Haven. 


TRAVELLBU. 


25a 


be  road 
Miks,  in 
el  is  in 
into  the 
ipt  turn 
(1  on  the 
vhen  the 
extensive 
ank»  and 
he  water 
ountains. 
most  ex* 


KouND  Hill  is  a  beautiful  eminence  just  west  of  the 
town,  where  is  the  school  of  Messrs.  Cogswell  and  Ban* 
croft,  for  the  education  of  boys.  The  branches  of  learn- 
ing taught  there  are  numerous,  and  there  are  instructers 
for  the  French,  Spanish,  and  German  languages.  Great 
attention  is  paid  to  the  hours  of  recreation  as  well  as  of 
study,  and  the  pupils  are  rarely  to  be  seen  out  of  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  school.  The  place  itself  is  very  pleasant : 
commanding  fine  air,  fine  scenes,  and  perfect  retirement. 

On  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  hill  stands  the  house  of 
the  Stoddard  family,  an  ancestor  of  whom  was  formerly 
a  man  of  great  talents  and  influence  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  In  King- street,  towards  the  north-east  from  that 
spot,  is  standing  the  house  in  which  President  Edwards, 
Sen.  lived.  President  Edwards,  Jun.  and  Dr.  D wight  were 
born,  and  David  Brainerd  died.  It  is  very  old  and  shaded 
by  two  elms.  On  the  east  side  of  the  main  street,  just 
south  of  the  brook,  is  the  house  of  the  late  Governor 
Strong. 

The  Lead  Mine. 

In  Southampton,  at  the  distance  of  8  miles  from  thi^ 
place,  is  a  lead  mine,  which  will  be  regarded  with  interest 
by  the  curious  and  the  scientific.  A  considerable  part  of 
the  road  is  good,  and  the  place  is  wild  and  rough.  The 
following  extract  from  the  Journal  of  Science  and  the 
Arts,  furnishes  all  necessary  information  on  the  subject. 

Southampton  Lead  J\lme* 

This  vein  declines  10  or  15  degrees  from  a  perpendicu- 
lar ;  is  6  or  8  f(iBt  in  diameter,  and  traverses  granite  and 


566 

into  66  sec- 
rtained,  that 

be  made* 
;e  and  New- 

of  a  canal. 
ir  miles  near 
,  at  some  re- 
New-Haven. 


—The  whole  region  is  alluvial — ^there  are  no  primitive  hills, 
no  granite  ridges,  no  quagmires,  to  cut  through,  and  no  expen- 
sive embankments  will  be  necessary.  The  summit  level  is 
only  134  feet  above  the  Connecticut,  and  but  little  more  than 
200  feet  above  tide  water.  From  New-Haven  to  Greenfield 
will  cost  less  than  one  million  of  dollars— a  canal  from 
Boston  to  Greenfield,  about  the  same  distance,  will  cost  three 
millions.  The  former  will  pass  through  a  secondary  and  com- 
paratively level  region — the  latter  must  cross  a  pvhnitive, 
mountainous  coimtry.    Eadem  'paprf\ 


2154 


THE  NORTHERN 


other  primitive  rocks.  It  has  been  observed  at  intervals 
from  Montgomery  to  Hatfield,  a  distance  of  20  miles ; 
but  it  is  very  doubtful  whether  it  continues,  uninterrupt* 
edly,  the  whole  of  that  extent;  indeed,  from  what  I  have 
observed  of  other  lead  veins  in  the  vicinity,  I  have  some* 
times  been  disposed  to  question,  whether  the  veins  ob- 
served at  many  of  these  intervals,  may  not  be  totally  dis- 
tinct from  one  another.  In  Southampton,  eight  miles 
south-west  from  Northampton,  is  the  only  spot  where 
this  vein  has  been  extensively  wrought.  In  that  place  it 
has  been  explored  30  or  40  rods  in  length,  to  the  depth  of 
40  or  50  feet ;  and  (he  galena,  which  is  the  principal  ore, 
has  been  found  in  masses  from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  a 
foot  in  diameter.  At  the  depth  above  mentioned,  the 
water  became  so  abundant  that  it  was  thought  adviseable 
to  abandon  a  perpendicular  exploration,  and  to  descend 
to  the  foot  of  a  hill  on  the  east,  nearly  80  rods  from  the 
vein,  and  attempt  a  horizontal  drift,  or  adit ;  and  ever 
since  its  commencement,  seven  or  eight  years  ago,  the 
working  of  the  vein  has  ceased.  This  drift  is  now  car- 
ried into  the  hill,  on  an  exact  level,  nearly  60  rods,  and 
the  workmen  told  me,  that  not  less  than  $20,000  bad 
been  expended  upon  it.  The  rocks  that  have  been  pane- 
trated,  reckoning  from  the  mouth  of  the  drift  inwards, 
are  geest^  the  red  and  gray  slates  of  the  coal  formation, 
with  thin  beds  of  coal,  and  mica  slate,  and  granite  alter* 
nating.  J*robably  the  fundamental  deposite  of  granite  is 
now  uncovered  ;  and  the  principal  vein  of  galena  cannot 
be  far  distant.  Several  small  branch  veins  of  crystallized 
quartz  and'galena  have  been  crossed,  and  several  speci- 
mens of  these,  collected  by  Dr.  Hunt,  were  very  rich  and 
beautiful ;  the  crystals  of  pure  galena  sometimes  exhibit, 
on  their  faces,  insulated  crystals  of  honey  coloured  car- 
bonate of  lime.  The  principal  vein  will  be  found  not  less, 
I  should  judge,  than  150  feet  below  the  surface ;  and  when 
that  time  comes,  it  is  confidently  expected,  not  only  that 
the  proprietors  will  be  rewarded  for  the  great  expense 
they  have  incurred,  but  also,  that  many  a  rich  specimen 
will  be  found  to  ornament  the  mineral  cabinets  rf  our 
country,  and  to  vie  in  beauty  with  the  lead  ores  of  £u« 
rope. 

The  mouth  of  this  drift  is  4  qr  5  feet  wide,  and  about 


t  intervals 
20  miles; 
I  interrupt' 
hat  I  have 
lave  some- 
I  veins  ob- 
totally  dis> 
ight  miles 
pot  where 
at  place  it 
16  depth  of 
ncipal  ore, 
1  inch  to  a 
lioned,  the 
adviaieable 
to  descend 
9  from  the 
;   and  ever 
rs  ago,  the 
3  now  car- 
)  rods,  and 
20,000  had 
been  pene- 
ft  inwards, 
formation, 
anite  alter* 
r  granite  is 
ena  cannot 
crystallized 
reral  speci- 
!ry  rich  and 
nes  exhibit, 
loured  car* 
nd  not  less, 
;  and  when 
Dt  only  that 
at  expense 
ih  specimen 
lets  ci  uur 
pres  of  Eu- 


y 


and  about 


1 1 


3 


»1 


IrUAVELLKU. 


S5 


au 


'¥et  above  the  surt'ace  of  tbo  water.  -  The  watm  . 
•  fgb  the  whole  length  of  it,  w  admit  the  \)mm, 
•  boat.     The  person  ivishin;;  tu  explore  this  t- 
fiuj.st   fire   a  gun  nt  the  entrarico,  or  ^>    '  ■ 
ri  sSedge  ou  the  tintbers  that  sf»pi)orl  the: 
•tijiutes,  he^will  perceive  a  i^t'.ntle  undulti? 
aid  fiO05i  aftf-r,  a  boat  adviun.ifig  with  li^' 


■h'Cp 


*o.    As 


t  :)\vtr ;  having  seated  lunisclf  on  i^ 
'«  atj  nnd  provided  h)TB«ie!f  wsLh  nn  ar 
he  is  prepared  for  his  subterranean  e> 
rs  the  pas.sai^e,  he  will  tor  ^  mo?i*erfl  fxjiierjcn*.!?, 
'iiie  he  cijpfirii'.nofis,  a  Irltle  diifirJi!?.)  of  h?eat?Mr: 
>vj!1  sooh  bt'coaie  rtconcited  to  hi^  condJll;  v- 
pfissing  about  100  (eM  Jn  tb©  e.\cftv«tt< 
0.  the  soil  !s  supported  bf  s^fftlxjrj'  ^ 

lUv  more  rcoi.-         '•      •  •  •>  ■. 

.ack,  3^>-    ■  ,,-: 


I     '; 


'.  turned,  for  tKe  pur^^ti*  jtihitoh 

'6  reaches  the  end  d"  the  driit,  he  iindahirn^etf  tti 

.trated  ne?»rly  60  rods,  rdsiefiy  into-spiid  nK;k. 
irnhcra  do  not  quit  the  drift  when  tbey  i>'r»?i»    « 


m  hns  be* 


iji^iiH  ■  -'s^isc  pu>:>«ing  that   way»  wiI5 


•c«*s  tight  ®r 


Morxv  Hru. 


Tf^pf:. 


•;€   ««eei)t  ol.  Uhs  inuvHii.-iu  hft 
•>-•  '  ;-%  perhaps  more  »«  *'.'«a  'r-^ 

■:   -y,  if  w«^  except  ib^t  o*' 
■'^ew*y<»?k.     The  height  ?•»  - -. 
^  »s  u  {ijood  carriajie  roiMi  <h« 
ta  w^li  m  a  buitdiflg  af  cousfe'  ? 


.  untain? 

"'  '"'  i'.t  .   ana 


*« 


3  feet  above 
enough  the  t 
loaded  boat, 
canal,  must 
with  a  sledg 
or  15  minute 
water,  and  s( 
and  a  rower 
this  boat,  ant 
ment,  he  is  p 
he  enters  th( 
or  imagine  h 
But  he  will  s( 
alter  passing 
distance  the  i 
casionally  mc 
looks  back,  i 
the  light  at  th 
of  a  candle ; 
comes  invisib 
end  of  the  di 
brook  is  turm 
When  he  reai 
hare  penetrat 

The  miner 
retire  behini 
Out  man  has 
ten  years  wit 

Every  min 
visit  this  drift 
al  views,  anc 
cavity. 


I    The  asecti 

I  fashionable,  p 

this  country, 

in  New-Yorl 

J  there  is  a  go 

\  i,  I  «p,  as  well  as 


,tm 


I'UAVELLKR. 


i5i 


3  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  The  water  is  deep 
enough  the  whole  length  of  it,  to  admit  the  passage  of  a 
loaded  boat.  The  person  wishing  to  explore  this  internal 
canal,  must  fire  a  gun  at  the  entrance,  or  beat  heavily 
with  a  sledge  on  the  timbers  that  support  the  soil ;  in  10 
or  15  minutes,  he  will  perceive  a  gentle  undulation  of  the 
water,  and  soon  after,  a  boat  advancing  with  lighted  lamps 
and  a  rower ;  having  seated  himself  on  the  bottom  of 
this  boat,  and  provided  himself  with  an  additional  gar- 
ment, he  is  prepared  for  his  subterranean  expedition.  As 
he  enters  the  passage,  he  will  for  a  moment  experience, 
or  imagine  he  experiences,  a  little  difficulty  of  breathing. 
But  he  will  soon  become  reconciled  to  his  condition ;  and 
after  passing  about  100  feet  in  tbe  excavation,  for  which 
distance  the  soil  is  supported  by  timbers,  he  will  find  oc- 
casionally more  room,  so  that  he  can  stand  erect.  If  be 
looks  back,  after  having  advanced  several  hundred  feet^ 
the  light  at  the  entrance  will  appear  diminished  to  the  size 
of  a  candle  ;  and  before  he  reaches  the  extremity,  it  be- 
comes invisible.  About  half  way  from  the  entrance  to  the 
end  of  the  drift,  he  will  pass  a  shaft,  down  which  a  small 
brook  is  turned,  for  the  purpose  of  aiding  the  ventilator. 
When  he  reaches  the  end  of  the  drift,  he  finds  himself  to 
hare  penetrated  nearly  60  rods,  chiefly  into  solid  rock. 

The  miners  do  not  quit  the  drift  when  they  blast,  but 
retire  behind  a  breast  work  thrown  up  for  the  purpose. 
Ont  man  has  been  an  inmate  of  that  dark  recess  eight  or 
ten  years  without  suflfering  in  his  health. 

Every  mineralogist  passing  that  way,  will  of  course 
visit  this  drift.  Intelligent  gentlemen,  without  profession-' 
al  views,  and  even  ladies,  not  unfrequently  enter  this 
cavity. 


Mount  HoLYOKfc. 

The  ftscctit  of  this  mountain  has  lately  become  very 
I  fashionable,  perhaps  more  so  than  any  similar  enterprise  irt 
this  country,  if  we  except  that  of  the  Catskill  Mountains 
in  New-York.  The  height  is  said  to  be  800  feet;  and 
there  is  a  good  carriage  road  the  greater  part  of  the  Way 
up,  as  well  as  a  buiUUng  of  considerable  size  on  fibe  sum. 


^54i 


THE  NORTHERN 


mit,  for  tlie  accommodation  of  visiters,  who  resort  tiiitlier 
eyerj  season,  usually  in  parties. 

There  is  a  short  road  through  the  meadows,  directly  to 
Lyman's  ferry,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  which  is  fur- 
nished with  a  good  horse  boat.  But  it  may  be  found 
pleasanter  to  cross  that  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  pass 
through  Hadlry  Meadows,  and  down  on  the  eastern  bank. 
The  path  up  turns  off  near  a  small  old  house,  and  another 
opposite  the  tavern  near  the  ferry.  After  following  the 
latter  to  its  termination,  you  dismount,  secure  your  horses 
to  the  trees,  and  walk  up  a  rude  stone  staircase  on  the 
right.  Refreshments  will  be  found  at  the  house  which 
occupies  the  summit ;  and  which  opens  on  both  sides,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  command  an  uninterrupted  view  of 
the  rich  and  varied  landscape  below.  Those  who  wish  to 
ei\joy  the  luxury  of  seeing  day  break  and  the  sua  rise 
over  such  a  scene,  may  find  a  shelter  here  for  the  nigiit. 

South-bast,  the  view  is  less  interesting,  and  may  there- 
fore be  first  examined.  The  country  is  undulating,  and  the 
soil  generally  poor ;  yet  several  villages  are  discovered  at 
a  distance,  particularly  South  Hadley,  which  lies  imme- 
diately below.  Southwardly  is  seen  Connecticut  River, 
retiring  under  the  shade  of  Mount  Tom,  whitened  below 
by  the  South  Hadley  Falls  ;  but  Springfield  is  not  seen. 
The  river  makes  several  turns ;  and  on  the  horizon  are 
two  very  distant  peaks,  which  are  supposed  to  be  East 
and  West  Rocks,  at  New-Haven,  about  70  miles  distant. 

North-east  is  seen  Monadnoc  Mountain,  in  Ne^r- 
Hampshire ;  and  the  view  towards  the  east  is  interrupted 
by  the  neighbouring  peaks  of  Mount  Holyoke. 

North,  you  look  up  the  charming  valley  of  the  Con- 
necticut ;  bordered  by  distant  ranges  of  hills  and  moun- 
tains, varied  by  a  few  isolated  peaks,  covered  with  the 
richest  coat  of  vegetation,  and  scattered  with  villages  and 
innumerable  farm  houses.  The  river  makes  a  beautiful 
serpentine  course;  from  where  it  first  appears  at  the  foot 
of  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  and  Mount  Toby,  until  it 
reaches  the  Tillage  of  Hadley,  which  lies  in  full  view ', 
and  then  taking  a  bold  sweep  to  the  west,  and  flowing 
4i  miles,  it  returns  to  the  end  of  that  village,  only  a  mile 
distant  from  where  it  first  meets  it.  The  whole  peninsula 
is  ricb  and  ftrtilc,  and  covered  with  cultivated  fields  of 


TUAVELLEU. 


jJj7 


Yvlieati  corn,  grass,  &c.  without  being  disfigured  by 
fences,  according  to  the  custom  prevalent  hereabouts ;  and 
is  the  richest  sight  upon  the  river,  particularly  ivhcn 
viewed  in  connexion  with  the  scene  immediately  below, 
where  the  river  flows  on,  almost  under  our  feet,  and  the 
western  shore  presents  the  extensive  Northampton  Mea- 
dows, a  mile  wide.  Following  the  current  with  the  eye, 
in  the 

VVest-south-west,  it  forms  a  still  more  remarkable 
peninsula,  although  one  of  inferior  size  :  the  Hockanum 
Bend  being  a  turn  measuring  3^  miles  in  circuit,  while  the 
isthmus  is  only  46  rods  across,  or  150  yards.  In  the 
compass  of  this  view,  from  the  north  to  the  west  and 
south,  numerous  village  spires  are  seen,  with  level  fields, 
orchards,  and  gardens,  almost  without  number ;  and  the 
whole  scene  is  so  bounded  with  mountainous  ridges,  as  to 
seem  to,  justify  the  opinion  of  geologists,  who  say  that  it 
was  once  covered  with  an  extensive  lake,  until  the  water 
forced  a  passage  between  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke. 

Northampton  is  seen  about  west-north-west,  with 
Round  Hill ;  and  towards  the  right,  the  top  of  Saddle 
Mountain,  in  the  distance.  There  are  also  others  still 
farther  north,  particularly  Haystack  and  Bare  Mountain. 

More  than  30  church  steeples  may  be  counted  here  by 
taking  advantage  of  different  kinds  of  weather. 

In  poipt  of  history,  that  part  of  the  Connecticut  Valley 
immediately  under  the  eye,  belongs  to  the  third  division 
of  settlements,  calling  Plymouth  and  Massachusetts  Bay 
the  first ;  Windsor,  Hartford,  Wetherstield,  &e.  the  se- 
cond. Northampton,  Hadley,  and  Hatfield,  were  settled 
in  1653,  and  remained  the  frontier  posts  in  this  direction 
till  after  Philip's  war,  during  which  they  sufiered  severely 
from  constant  alarms,  and  the  loss  of  inhabitants.  The 
Indians  who  had  sold  the  land  on  which  the  towns  were 
built,  had  each  a  spot  assigned  them  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  the  palisades,  with  which  the  new  settlements 
were  surrounded,  and  lived  in  peace  and  good  faith  until 
excited  by  Philip  ;  after  which  all  the  towns  were  at  dif- 
ferent times  attacked  by  them,  and  some  of  them  re- 
peatedly. It  may,  perhaps,  add  to  the  interest  of  the 
visiter  to  Mount  Holyoke,  while  looking  down  on  the 
scene  of  peace  and  fertility  beneath  them,  to  be  told, 

A  a 


258 


THE  NOUTHEIIN 


that  during  the  French  wars,  on  May  13th,  1704,  the  In- 
dians  fell  upon  a  little  settlement  at  the  foot  ot  Mount 
Tom,  and  killed  20  persons,  more  than  half  o(  ^hom 
were  children ;  and  that  a  tradition  states,  though  ivuq. 
out  designating  the  precise  time,  that  a  captive  woman 
was  once  brought  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  where 
we  stand,  and  scalped — such  trials  had  our  forefathers 
to  endure  who  introduced  civilization  into  this  once 
savage  country. 

Hadley  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  while  the  inha* 
bitants  were  at  church,  and  was  near  falling  into  their 
hands,  when  a  stranger,  a  venerable  old  man,  made  his 
appearance,  and  by  his  active  resistance,  encouraged 
them  to  repel  the  enemy.  It  was  not  known  at  the  time 
who  he  was,  or  whither  he  went ;  but  there  is  now  little 
doubt  that  he  was  Goffe,  one  of  king  Charles's  judg<?s, 
who  was  secreted  for  a  length  of  time  in  this  town,  and 
of  whom  we  have  already  had  occasion  to  speak  at  Netv* 
Haven.  The  remains  of  his  coffin,  it  is  believed,  were 
discovered  a  few  years  since,  in  the  cellar  wall  of  a  house 
near  the  present  academy,  which  was  formerly  inhabited 
by  one  of  his  friends. 

The  burning  of  Deerfield,  we  shall  speak  of  on  arriving 
at  that  town. 

Stage  coaches  run  to  Boston  and  Albany  in  a  day ;  and 
up  and  down  the  river  three  times  a  week. 

Hadlet, 

3  miles.     (See  a  few  lines  above.) 

Hatfield, 

1  mile,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  This  town  is  much 
devoted  to  the  wintering  of  cattle  raised  on  the  neighbour- 
ing hilly  country.  The  grass  is  very  fine,  and  the  barns 
are  large  ;  which,  with  the  appearance  of  the  houses,  give 
the  place  an  air  of  substantial  agricultural  wealth.  The 
cattle  are  bought,  stabled,  and  fatted. 


Amherst 

id  situated  on  elevated  ground,  5  miles  from  Hadley; 
off  the  river,  towards  the  north*east. 
The  College  conttiined,  in  1825,  l62  students. 


and 


TRAVELLER. 


259 


the  iu- 
'  Mount 
f  "^hom 
;h  wiiQ- 
I  woman 
I  where 
refathers 
tiis  once 

he  inha< 
nto  their 
nade  his 
couraged 

the  time 
now  little 
8  judges, 
iown,  and 
i:  at  New- 
ved,  were 
>f  a  house 

inhabited 


n  is  much 
neighbour- 

the  barns 
)uses,  give 
ilth.    The 


idley;  ami 


its. 


'She  Sugar  Loaf  is  an  isolated  hill  of  a  conical  form, 
rising  in  front  as  we  proceed.  A  fine  view  is  enjoyed 
from  the  summit,  where  has  recently  been  erected  a  house 
for  visiters.  Deerfield  lies  north  of  it  about  3  miles ;  and 
the  way  by  which  we  approach  it,  lies  nearly  along  the  old 
road  which  led  thither  through  the  wilderness,  in  1675, 
when  it  was  deserted  by  the  settlers  ;  and  Capt.  Lothrop 
was  despatched,  with  a  body  of  80  soldiers  and  wagoners, 
to  bring  off  the  grain.  At  the  foot  of  this  mountain  is 
the  small  village  of  Bloody  Brook,  (improperly  called 
Muddy  Brook,)  and  near  the  spot  where  a  bridge  crosses 
the  stream,  Capt.  Lothrop  was  ambushed  by  about  800 
Indians.  The  place  was  then  a  marshy  piece  of  ground ; 
and  some  traces  of  the  road,  which  was  formed  of  logs, 
are  still  to  be  seen,  running  through  the  fields  without 
crossing  at  the  bridge.  The  convoy  halted  at  this  place ; 
and  the  soldiers  were  generally  engaged  in  gathering 
grapes  from  the  vines  which  ran  on  the  trees,  having  left 
their,  muskets  on  the  ground,  when  the  Indians  fired  upon 
them.  Capt.  Lothrop,  who  had  often  discussed  the  dif' 
urent  modes  of  fighting  Indians,  and  was  strongly 
biassed  in  favour  of  imitating  their  own  mode  of  warfiure, 
itnmediately  gave  orders  that  the  men  should  disperse, 
and  fire  from  beh'iid  the  trees;  but  tbey  in  this  way  lost  the 
opportunity  of  cutting  their  way  through  and  making  their 
escape,  which  tbey  might  have  done  by  keeping  in  a  close 
body ;  and  were  all  cut  off  except  8  or  10.  This  massacre 
was  one  of  the  most  calamitous  which  ever  occurred  in 
New-England,  taken  into  view  with  the  small  number  of 
inhabitants  at  the  time :  as  the  company  consisted  of 
young  men,  from  the  principal  families  in  the  eastern 
towns. 

On  the  day  following,  Captain  Moseley  went  up  to  bury 
the  slain,  and  found  the  plaee  still  occupied  by  Indians ; 
but  he  forced  his  way  through  them,  and  obliged  them  to 
abandon  the  ground.  There  is  a  stone  now  lying  near 
the  fence,  west  of  the  brook,  which  was  brought  there 
some  years  since  for  a  monument,  but  not  raised. 

That  part  of  the  meadow  we  pass  through  in  approach- 
ing Deerfield  was  the  scene  of  several  skirmishes  with  the 
Indians  at  different  times,  as  the  place  was  a  frontier  for 
many  yearrf,  althoOgh  it  was  twice  burnt  and  deserled% 


'ido 


THE  NOKTHEUN 


DEEnriELD. 

In  1704,  Avliicli  was  the  period  of  its  last  uestruc< 
tioii,  a  iaigo  body  of  Indians,  led  on  by  a  few  French- 
men from  Canada,  came  upon  the  town  before  day< 
light.  It  was  winter,  and  the  snow  crust  was  strong 
enough  to  bear  them  j  thry  had  secreted  themselves  on  a 
hill  north-west  from  Dcerfield,  and  sent  in  a  scout. 
The  houses  were  all  entered  but  one,  the  inhabitants 
made  captives,  and  all,  except  a  few,  taken  off  to  Canada. 
One  of  the  houses  is  standing  at  this  day,  a  little  north  of 
the  church,  and  the  hole  may  still  be  seen  in  the  door, 
which  the  Indians  hacked  with  their  tomahawks,  and  then 
fired  through,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  several  bullets  in  the 
eastern  room,  one  of  which  went  through  the  neck  of  a 
woman  and  killed  her.  A  young  man  and  his  bride  leapt 
from  a  window  of  the  chamber  above  ;  and  though  the  lat- 
ter was  unable  to  walk,  in  consequence  of  spraining  her 
ancle,  the  former  fied,  at  her  urgent  request,  and,  meeting 
with  some  troops  on  his  way,  brought  them  up  in  time  to 
drive  off  the  Indians,  but  not  to  retake  any  of  the  captives. 

A  house  next  this  was  valiantly  defended  by  seven  men ; 
and  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Williams,  the  minister,  was  taken, 
and  he  and  his  family  carried  to  Canada.  Most  of  the  peo- 
ple were  ransomed  ;  but  a  daughter  of  Mr.  W.  became 
attached  to  the  savage  life,  married  a  chief,  and  left  child- 
ren. Mr.  Williamit',  Missionary  to  the  Indians  at  Green 
Bay,  is  one  of  her  dtscendants. 

Some  marks  of  the  old  picket  may  be  traced  in  the  rear 
of  the  house,  which  is  supposed  to  present  the  same 
appearance  as  in  old  times,  excepting  that  the  kitchen,  &c. 
have  since  been  built,  and  the  (rent  and  rear  have  been 
covered. 

There  is  an  academy  in  this  town,  but  it  is  not  in  a 
very  flourishing  condition. 

East  from  this  place,  are  several  spurs  projecting 
IVom  the  hill,  on  one  of  which  was  formerly  a  fort,  for 
the  protection  of  the  Deerfield  Indians  against  the  Mo- 
hawks. 

Greenfield,  3  miles.  Here  the  stage  coach  passes  on  a 
road  from  Boston  to  Albany.     The  country  west  is  highly 


TliAV£Lmi{. 


261 


picturesque.  Just  south  of  the  town,  Deerfield  river  appears 
to  have  at  some  period  formed  a  lake  of  some  extenti 
Yvith  an  outlet  towards  the  east,  where  its  channel  may  be 
seen,  with  the  place  of  an  old  cascade,  and  the  rocks  bored 
out  by  the  rushing  of  the  water.  The  channel  now  lies 
tbrough  a  deep  cut  between  two  hills. 

Turner's  Falls  are  on  Connecticut  River,  two  or  three 
miles  east  from  Greenfield.  It  is  necessary  to  leave  the  road 
to  see  them ;  but  they  are  of  considerable  height  and  beau- 
ty, and  hiHtory  has  rendered  the  place  memorable,  from 
an  important  battle  fought  there  towards  the  close  of 
Philip's  war.  The  way  by  which  we  approach  is  nearly 
over  the  same  ground,  where  Capt.  Turner  marched,  with 
his  body  of  men,  in  the  year  1676,  when  he  went  to  at- 
tack a  large  body  of  Indians,  assembled  at  an  Indian 
fort,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above  the  falls  ;  and  by  which  he 
also  returned,  after  a  successful  battle,  pursued  by  his 
surviving  enemies. 

Philip,  having  been  driven  from  the  sea  coast  and  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  English  settlements,  by  the  active 
operations  of  Capt.  Church,  Capt.  Mosely,  Capt.  Wheeler, 
&c.  retired  with  some  of  his  followers  to  the  Northfield 
Indians,  who  held  a  position  on  a  sandy  hill,on  the  north 
bank  of  the  river.    Here  he  was  attacked  in  the  night  by 
the  troops  under  Capt.  Turner.    The  English  left  their 
horses  on  a  hill,  which  descends  to  a  brook  emptying 
into  the  Connecticut  below  the  falls  ;  and  having  mounted 
the  opposite  bank,  proceeded  near  where  the  present  road 
leads,  and  marched  up  the  sandy  hill.     Tha  place  has  a 
swamp  on  two  sides,  and  the  river  on  the  fourth.    It  is, 
indeed,  overtopped  by  neighbouring  hills  ;  but  cannon,  of 
course,  were  out  of  the  question  in  such  a  warfare.  The  In- 
dians had  held  a  feast  that  night,  as  some  of  their  captives 
afterwards  reported,  and  were  generally  asleep,  so  that 
the  attack  of  the  white  men  gave  them  a  panic,  and  they 
fled  to  their  boats,  which  they  launched  in  such  haste,  that 
many  forgot  their  paddles,  and  were  carried  over  the  falls. 
The  rest,  however,  rallied  before  their  enemies  were 
out  of  their  reach,  and  being  joined  by  some  from  the 
island  below  the  falls,  pursued  and  harassed  them  about 
ten  miles,  to  Deerfield.    Bones  are  occasionally  dug  up 
near  the  spot,  and  a  few  years  ago  the  remains  of  an  oM 

Aa2 


362 


THE  NORTHERN 


musket,  a  few  silver  coins,  &c.  were  discovered  among  ttic 
rocks. 

This  was  the  last  and  most  severe  blow  Philip  received, 
before  he  returned  to  his  native  country  in  Rhode  Island, 
where  he  soon  after  terminated  his  dangerous  life  and  the 
ivar,  which  brought  so  many  calamities  upon  New-£ng* 
land* 

The  Canal.  A  dam  of  great  height  is  built  at  the  falls, 
to  supply  a  canal,  which  extends  two  or  three  miles  for 
boats  and  rafts.  Some  mills  are  also  established  on  the 
river's  bank.  The  fall  is  divided  by  two  rude  rocks,  be- 
tween which  the  water  rushes  in  separate  cataracts ;  and 
the  scenery  below  is  wild,  and  not  a  little  imposing. 
There  is,  however,  no  inn  nearer  than  Greenfield. 
Bbbnardston,  8  miles  from  Greenfield. 

Vernon.  Within  the  limits  of  this  township,  whieb  is 
the  first  in  Vermont,  was  once  fort  Dummer,  one  of  a  ch&in 
of  forts,  built  for  the  protection  of  the  country  against  the 
Canadian  Indians.  The  place  for  some  years  was  known 
on  the  river,  by  the  name  of  Number  One,  being  the  first 
of  four  new  townships. 

Passing  through  a  pretty  village,  with  several  mills, 
after  a  few  miles,  we  approach  Brattleborough,  south  of 
ivhich,  east  of  the  road,  is  a  quarry,  which  furnishes  a 
large  quantity  of  slate  ;  where  may  be  seen  the  mode  of 
quarrying,  splitting,  shaping,  and  packing  it  for  transpor* 
tation. 

Brattleborough  is  a  very  pleasant  village,  situated 
on  an  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  which,  since  the 
draining  of  the  old  lake  ir:  this  place,  has  made  two  or 
three  concentric  arches  north  of  the  town,  as  it  has  gra- 
dually lowered  its  channel  to  the  present  level.  At  the 
bridge,  over  a  small  stream,  are  several  manufactories ; 
and  in  the  village  is  a  large  and  comfortable  stage  house, 
whence  coaches  go  to  Boston,  as  well  as  west,  north,  and 
south. 

Westminster.  This  is  on  a  fine,  extensive  level;  and 
on  the  high  land,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 

Walpolb.  Connecticut  River  being  the  dividing  line 
between  the  two  adjacent  states,  Walpole  is  in  New- 
Hampshire.  The  situation  is  very  commanding,  and  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  above  the  village,  affords  a  view  of  un- 


TllAVELLEK. 


il^A 


aong  the 

received, 
e  Island, 
i  and  the 
[eW'Eng* 

the  falls, 
miles  for 
id  on  the 
rocks,  be- 
atcts)  and 
imposing, 
d. 


i  of  a  ch&in 
igainst  the 
vas  known 
Dg  the  first 


,  since  the 
ade  two  or 
it  has  gra- 
el.  At  the 
lufactories ; 
tage  house, 
,  north,  and 

B  level;  and 
ver,  is 
ividing  line 
is  in  New- 

ng*  &n^  ^^ 
view  of  un- 


usual extent  and  beauty.  There  ia  a  spacious  and  wt\l- 
kept  inn  at  Wiilpole  ;  &nd  stage  coaches  go  hence  to  Bos- 
ton, &c.  It  willlbe  found  the  best  place  to  stop  at  between 
Brattleborough  and  Cbarlestown. 

Three  miles  north  is  the  farm  of  Col.  Bellows,  which 
contains  700  acres.  The  house  of  the  proprietor  enjoys 
a  fine  situation  on  a  ridge  rising  from  the  meadow,  near 
where  stood  the  fort  erected  by  Col.  Bellows,  when, 
about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  the  place  was  occu- 
pied and  a  settlement  begun  under  the  name  of  Township 
No.  3. 

The  changes  which  have  taken  place  in  the  channel  of 
the  river,  in  the  course  of  ages,  are  very  manifest  in  pasts- 
ing  along  this  part  of  its  course,  particularly  by  the  west- 
ern bank ;  in  one  place,  which  is  noiv  perhaps  100  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  the  water,  the  current  appears 
once  to  have  flowed,  and  to  have  formed  the  cataract, 
which  has  now  retired  a  mile  or  more  to  the  north. 

'Bel|.ows  Falls.  The  height  of  this  fall  is  inconside- 
rable, but  it  is  on  the  whole  a  striking  object ;  surrounded 
by  rocky  banks,  and  having  an  abrupt  mountain  on  the 
eastern  side.  The  place  has  also  been  much  ornamented 
by  art ;  for,  besides  the  village,  with  its  neat  white  houses 
and  handsome  church,  a  canal  has  been  dug  round  the 
falls,  a  bridge  thrown  over  them,  and  the  rugged  side  of 
the  mountain  decorated  with  a  handsome  country  seat. 

The  rocks  are  of  the  most  firm  and  solid  gray  gra- 
nite, but  are  much  cut  by  the  force  of  the  current.  In 
some  places  boles  have  been  bored  into  them  perpendi- 
cularly, two  or  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  12  or  even  18 
feet  deep.  This  is  done  by  the  motion  given  to  loose 
stones  by  the  eddies  of  the  stream,  and  the  gradual  en- 
lai^ement  of  the  bore  sometimes  breaks  ofi'  great  masses 
of  the  rock.  These  falls  were  once  the  favourite  resort 
of  Indians  during  the  fishing  season.  On  the  rock  just  be- 
low the  bridge,  are  some  remains  of  their  rude  attempts 
at  sculpture,  which  represent  the  form  of  human  faces  ; 
and  from  one  on  the  end  of  the  stone,  which  appears  to 
have  suffered  less  from  the  attrition  of  the  floods,  it  would 
seem  as  if  they  might  once  have  been  more  finished  spe- 
cimens of  sculpture  than  they  now  appear,  as  that  pre-* 
sents  considerable  prominency  and  beauty  of  execution. 


264 


THE  NORTHERN 


The  Hunt  Farm  is  about  5  miles  from  the  falls,  aaU 
is  a  large  and  valuable  estate,  the  meadows  being  rich  and 
beautiful  in  the  extreme.  The  house  and  other  buildings 
are  large  ;  but  the  establishment  is  not  now  conducted  on 
such  a  plan  as  would  gratify  an  agriculturist. 

Charlestown.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  little  yillages 
in  New-England  ;  having  a  wide  street,  partly  shaded  with 
trees,  and  lined  with  neat  houses,  many  of  which  speak 
the  taste,  as  well  as  the  easy  circumstances  of  their  pro- 
prietors. 

This  was  called  township  No.  4.  The  fort  built  for  the 
defence  of  the  place  in  1743,  stood  on  the  gently  rising 
ground  a  little  south  of  the  church,  where  the  street  runs : 
but  not  a  vestige  of  it  is  to  be  discovered.  It  was  most 
gallantly  defended  by  Gapt.  Stevens,  in  1747,  against  a 
large  number  of  French  and  Indians  :  although  repea|;edly 
called  upon  to  surrender,  the  garrison  persisted  in  the  de- 
fence, digging  into  the  ground  to  shelter  themselves  from 
the  enemy*s  fire,  and,  after  several  days,  succeeded  in 
driving  them  away.  Capt.  S.  received  a  sword  for  his 
bravery. 

Jarvis's  Farm  at  Wethersfield  Bow,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  is  very  extensive,  and  contains  a  number  of 
large  buildings  for  dwellings,  barns,  stables,  &c.  princi- 
pally  of  brick.  The  land  is  generally  fenced  with  the 
roots  of  pine  trees,  draped  from  the  ground,  by  which, 
the  soil  is  rendered  fit  for  immediate  cultivation,  and  un- 
incumbered. The  proprietor  of  this  farm  is  also  the  pos- 
sessor of  a  large  part  of  the  township  beside,  and  is  very 
wealthy. 

The  road  beyond  affords  some  romantic  scenes.  The 
hilli^  approach  the  river  very  nearly,  and  several  views  are 
caught  between  them,  of  the  mountain  behind  Windsor, 
which  is  about  2000  feet  in  height,  and  divided  into  three 
peaks,  whence,  it  is  said,  it  derived  the  name  of  Ascut- 
ney,  which,  in  the  Indian  language,  means  Three  Brothers. 

WINDSOR 

is  a  fine  and  flourishing  town,  in  a  very  picturesque  situa- 
tion, particularly  when  viewed  from  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river ;  and  contains  a  good  stage  house,  kept  by  Pettes, 


;-4(? 


TRAVELLEK. 


26d 


lUs,  and 
rich  and 
tuildings 
iicted  on 

i  villages 
ded  with 
:h  speak 
heir  pro- 
It  for  the 
tly  rising 
eet  runs : 
^as  most 
against  a 
epeatedly 
in  the  de- 
lves from 
seeded  in 
>d  for  his 


[que  situa- 
|te  side  of 
IbvPettes, 


ii  number  of  stores,  some  elegant  houses,  two  or  three 
handsome  churches,  and  the  State  Prison. 

This  latfer  building  is  of  granite,  on  the  hill  in  the 
western  part  of  the  town.  It  is  planned  after  the  old  and 
ill-devised  system,  but  has  one  thing  in  its  construction 
worthy  of  imitation :  the  stones  are  secured  against  remo- 
val, by  having  six  pound  cannon  shot  placed  between 
them,  holes  being  cut  into  the  stones  to  receive  them. 

Mount  Ascutnbt.  A  great  part  of  the  way  up  this 
mountain  a  road  has  been  cut,  and  the  traveller  will  be 
richly  rewarded  for  the  labour  of  the  ascent.  From  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  he  cannot,  indeed,  expect  to  be- 
hold a  scene  like  that  from  Mount  Holyokc ;  but  there  is  a 
great  deal  that  is  fine  in  the  appearance  of  the  surround- 
ing country,  rough,  and  interspersed  with  villages  and 
cultivated  tracts,  with  the  Connecticut  winding  through 
it.  There  is  a  house  for  the  convenience  and  refresh- 
ment of  visiters  on  this  mountain  also,  and  the  number 
who  ascend  it  annually  is  already  considerable. 

The  Gulf  Road. 

Those  who  are  going  westward  from  this  part  of  the 
river.,  are  counselled  to  take  the  Gulf  Road  to  Burlington, 
on  Lake  Champlain,  to  which  a  stage  coach  runs.  Al- 
though the  route  is  through  the  chain  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains, the  way  is  remarkably  smooth  and  easy,  following  the 
coursesof  the  White  and  Onion  Rivers,  which  have  cut  deep 
channels  through  the  rocks.  You  have,  however,  first  to 
go  16  miles  along  the  western  bank  of  the  Connecticut  to 

White  River.  Here  great  quantities  of  lumber  are 
brought  down,  sawed  on  the  stream,  and  sent  by  the 
Connecticut  in  rafts  to  the  country  below.  Dartmouth 
College,  at  Hanover,  is  5  miles  north,  and  those  who  are 
going  to  the  White  Mountains,  will  of  course  pursue  that 
route;  {seep.  269 ;)  but  the  following  deviation  is  made  for 
those  who  are  going  to  Lake  Champlain. 

The  road  up  the  White  River  lies  along  the  north  bank, 
and  passes  through  several  beautiful  and  flourishing  vil- 
lages. The  valley,  though  narrow,  is  formed  of  the  rich- 
est soil,  and  wears  the  same  aspect,  in  form,  fertility,  and 
population,  with  the  meadows  of  the  Connecticut.  This 
was  the  course  formerlv  chosen  by  the  Indians  of  the 


266 


THE  NORTHERN 


north  in  their  commerce  with  those  on  ths  borders  of 
that  river,  before  the  arrival  of  Europeans  ;  and,  with  the 
exception  of  a  short  portage,  between  the  White  and 
Onion  Rivers,  they  brought  all  their  furs  from  Canada,  &c. 
by  water.  During  the  Indian  and  French  wars,  this  route 
was  frequently  used  for  more  hostile  purposes  ;  and  cap- 
tives were  taken  from  these  settlements  so  late  as  the 
Revolutionary  war.  The  scenery  is  interesting  and  various 
all  along  the  route. 
Rot  ALTON,  a  pretty  village.  ,.      ' 

Randolph 

is  considered  one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  in  Vermont, 
and  a  stage  coach  likewise  passes  that  way. 

Gulf.  The  entrance  of  this  remarkable  passage 
from  the  cast,  is  under  the  brow  of  an  abrupt  mountain, 
where  a  branch  of  White  River  flows  along  by  the  nad 
in  a  gentle  current,  quite  inadequate  in  its  present  condi- 
tion to  such  effects  as  it  has  produced  at  some  former  pe- 
riod, in  parting  this  enormous  barrier.  It  was  not,  however, 
by  the  gradual  action  of  a  diminutive  stream  like  this, 
even  when  increased  by  the  annual  floods,  that  such 
changes  were  made ;  but  by  the  pressure  of  a  lake  confined 
among  the  mountains,  which  here  first  found  a  channel. 

The  Gulf  road  extends  6  miles,  and  the  ground  is  so 
level  that  it  has  been  proposed  to  make  it  the  course  of  a 
canal.  Oik  the  height  of  land  is  a  pond,  from  which 
flows  a  stream,  into  the  valley.  Part  of  it  joins  the 
White  River,  and  part  the  Onion  River. 

i  :  ;  MONTPELIER 

is  the  capital  of  Vermont,  and  a  very  pretty  town.  It 
contains  the  State  HottsCf  a  Court  Hmsty  an  Academy, 
and  other  public  buildings.* 


*  History  of  the  State. — The  first  discovery  of  Vermont 
was  made  in  1609,  by  Samuel  Champlain,  who,  after  est&blish- 
iug  a  colony  at  Quebec,  proceeding  up  the  Rivers  St.  Lawrence 
and  Sorel,  explored  ana  gave  his  own  name  to  the  lake  which 
washes  the  western  part  of  the  state.  This  early  discovery 
of  the  interior  of  North  America  was  attended  with  no  Euro- 
pean settlement  imtil  1724,  when  the  government  of  Massa- 
chusetts erected  Fort  Dumraer,  in  the  town  of  Brattleborougbs 


TRAVELLER. 


267 


lei's  of 
rith  the 
ite  and 
ida,  &c. 
is  route 
nd  cap* 
as  the 
,  various 


Vermont 
est&blisb- 
Lawrence 
ake  which 

discovery 

no  Euro- 
of  Massa- 

eborough\ 


From  Montpelier  to  Burlington,  the  road  pursues  the 
course  of  Onion  River  nearly  the  whole  distance,  and  af- 
fords a  succession  of  hilly  and  mountainous  scenery, 


on  Connecticut  River.    The  first  settlement  in  the  western 
part  of  the  state  was  commenced  by  rx?  French  in  1731,  in 
th'  town  of  Addison,  and  at  the  sane  tiime  they  erected  a  fort 
at  ^£0\m  Point.    The  government  of  New-Hampshire  began 
to  make  grants  of  townships  within  the  present  limits  of  Ver- 
mont in  1749,  at  which  time  the  settlement  of  Bennington  was 
commenced,  and  at  the  same  time  a  violent  controversy  ensued 
between  the  New-Hampshire  grants  and  the  province  of  New- 
York,  which  continued  ontil  1764,  when  the  lurisdiction  of  the 
foraier  was  declared  by  the  King  and  council  to  extend  to  the 
western  boundaries  or  New-Hampshire.    C>win^  to  the  war 
between  Great  Britain  and  France  and  their  lii^^'an  allies,  the 
progress  of  the  state  to  a  settlement  and  population  was  ex- 
tremely slow  ;  but  by  the  surrender  of  Canada  to  the  power  of 
Great  Britain  in  1760,  the  settlement  of  the  state  progressed 
rapidly.     One  hundred  and  thirty-eight  towns  which  had  been 
granted  by  the  Governor  of  New-Hampshire  for  thirteen  years, 
endine  with  1764,  were  declared  void  by  the  government  of 
New- York,  and  the  settlers  were  nailed  upon  to  surrender  their 
charters  and  purchase  new  titles.    Upon  this  investigation,  the 
controversy  between  the  New-Hampsnire  grants  andNew-Tork 
was  renewed,  which  continued  for  twenty-six  years.    In  1778, 
several  of  the  towns  belonging  to  the  state  of  New-Hampshire 
were  desirous  of  uniting  with  Vermont,  which  occasioned  a 
severe  controversy  and  threatened  a  severance  of  these  grants 
between  New-Hampshire  and  New-York.      This  difficulty 
continued  until  1781.     Massachusetts  at  this  period  laid  a 
claim  also  to  the  southern  part  of  these  grants,  but  without 
any  success.    The  internal  affairs  of  Vermont  were  still  very 
fluctuating,  without  any  regularly  organized  government :  she 
was  controlled  by  the  arbitrary  measures  of  the  Council  of 
Safety,  and  that  from  the  commencement  of  the  revolutionary 
war  until  she  declared  herself  a  free  and  independent  state. 
This  was  done  by  a  general  convention  of  Delegates  from 
both  sides  of  the  mountain,  holden  at  Westminster  in  1777. 
The  first  convention  of  tlie  state  met  at  Dorset  in  1776,  and 
the  first  constitution  was  adopted  by  a  convention  assembled 
at  Windsor  in  July,  1777,  but  the  organization  of  the  govern- 
ment did  not  take  place  until  March,  1778. 

Their  first  warlike  enterprise  took  place  under  the  command 
of  Col.  Ethan  Allen,  who  surprised  and  captured  a  British 
^'ort  at  Ticonderoga,  without  the  loss  of  a  man.    On  the  samo 


208 


THE  NORTHERN 


M 


such  af  is  characteristic  of  the  state.  The  river  is  in 
many  places  smooth  and  gentle,  though  occasionally  in* 
terrupted  by  ftilis  and  rapids.  The  Indians  navigated  it 
in  their  canoes  for  many  miles ;  and  when  they  found  tbe 
channel  obstructed,  carried  them  on  their  shoulders 
through  the  mountains,  to  the  White  River,  and  thus  pro* 
ceeded  to  the  Connecticut.  This  route  was  used  by  the 
Indians  in  their  trade,  when  the  Fnglish  first  knew 
the  Connecticut ;  and  during  the  French  wars  the  savages 
frequently  resorted  to  it  in  their  hostile  incursions,  as 
one  of  the  principal  passages  to  Now-England.  Even 
as  late  as  the  Revolutionary  war,  a  party  came  from 
Canada,  and  burned  several  hcuses  in  the  settlements  in 
this  neighbourhood.    [For  a  proposed  canal,  see  page  273.] 

On  the  road  iVom  Montpelier  are  two  remarkable 
Water  FalU  in  the  Onion  River.  They  are  so  near  tbc 
road  that  they  will  be  heard  in  passing,  and  seen  by  tnking 
a  few  steps.  The  Upper  FM  is  in  the  midst  of  a  wild 
scene,  the  water  pouring  over  broken  rocks,  between  two 
high  and  perpendicular  banks.  The  Lower  Fall  is  ofapecu* 
liar  character :  the  stream  is  broken  into  foam,  and  rushes 
by  with  great  rapidity  ;  yet  the  channel  is  obstructed  in 
such  a  manner  oy  several  large  rocks,  that  the  stream  is 
turned  alternately  from  side  to  side,  being  dashed  witli 
violence  against  their  bases,  and  thus  forced  into  an  un- 
natural zig-zag  course. 

A  few  miles  before  reaching  Burlington,  the  road  leaves 
the  river,  which  bends  away  further  towards  the  north. 
At  its  mouth  is  an  extensive  and  fertile  meadow,  which 
may  bear  a  comparison  with  those  on  the  Connecticut. 

day  Crown  Point  was  captured  by  the  troops  under  the  com- 
mand of  Col.  Seth  Warner.  An  attack  was  made  upon  Mon- 
treal, in  which  Col.  Allen  was  taken  prisoner  and  sent  to 
England.  During  the  same  year,  1775,  Col.  Warner,  wth 
300  Vermont  solders,  attacked  and  defeated  General  Carlton 
with  800  regulars  and  Canadians.  On  the  I3th  of  August, 
1777,  the  New-Hampshire  and  Vermont  militia,  under  tht 
command  of  Gen.  Stark,  defeated  the  British  troops  under  the 
command  of  Colonel  Baum. 

Tlie  difliculties  between  Vermont  and  New-York  were  ami- 
cably settled  in  1790,  and  the  next  year  she  was  admitted  into 
the  confederacy  of  the  states.— (i'^-om  a  Vermont  paper.) 


TRAVELLER. 


26» 


rev  13  ill 

nally  in- 

gated  it 

Qund  tlie 

.boulders 

thus  pro- 

ed  by  the 

rst  knew 

e  savages 

rsions,  as 

id.    Even 

ame  from 

ements  in 

pagt  273.] 

•emarkable 

io  near  tlic 

[1  by  tnlting 

t  of  a  wild 

■tween  two 

isofapecu* 

and  rushes 

)stnicted  in 

e  stream  is 
ashed  witli 
into  an  un- 

road  leaves 
the  north, 
^dow,  which 
inecticut. 

Ider  the  com- 
ieuponMon- 
J.  and  sent  to 
IVarner,  wth 
Ineral  Carlton 
lb  of  August, 
[a,  under  tb 
[ops  underthf 

ork  were  ami- 
I  admitted  into 

out  paper.) 


BURLINGTON 

19  a  lai^e  and  beautiful  toWn,  and  enjoys  one  of  the  finest 
and  most  advantageous  situations  on  Lake  Champlain. 
The  ridge  of  the  bill,  on  the  declivity  of  which  it  is  built, 
commands  an  extensive  view  upon  the  lake,  with  the 
numerous  mountains  which  border  its  western  shores, 
and  a  large  expanse  of  water  on  the  right  and  left.  Im- 
mediately below  is  the  bay,  bounded  by  high  land ;  and 
the  elegant  dwellings  and  beautiful  gardens,  of  the 
wealther  inhabitants,  ornament  the  foreground. 

The  Steam  Boais  stop  here  on  their  way  to  Whitehall 
Smd  St  John's  (the  route  to  Montreal;)  and  the  traveller 
is  referred  to  passes  185  and  224  for  the  objects  on  the  lake 
in  those  directiuus.     {Returning  to  Connecticut  River,] 

HANOVBK.  '  \::    -:. 

This  village,  21  miles  above  Windsor,  is  remarkable 
as  the  seat  of 


DARTMOUTH  COLLEGE, 

an  institution  which  holds  a  very  respectable  rank  for  learn- 
ing and  influence,  the  number  of  its  pupils,  and  the 
ability  of  its  officers.  It  was  founded  for  the  education 
of  Indians,  and  was  named  after  William  Earl  of  Dart- 
mouth. It  possesses  a  large  tract  of  land,  which,  however, 
is  unproductive ;  and  the  college  building,  which  is  of 
wood,  and  not  inhabited  by  the  students,  has  an  aspect 
of  decay.  The  chapel  is  also  of  wood ;  but  several  of 
the  houses  about  the  green  are  very  neat,  and  the  ground 
being  elevated,  the  place  is  very  pleasant. 

Tl*6  Medicd  Institution  is  a  brick  building,  a  little  north 
from  the  square.  The  number  of  scholars  in  the  college, 
in  1825,  was  138. 

The  road  between  Hanover  and  Haverhill,  18  miles, 
presents  few  objects  of  much  interest ;  the  country  not 
being  thickly  ponulatecf,  and  no  villages  intcrvenins^,  ex> 
•'fipt  one,  which  has  several  very  neat  house?. 

Bli 


«70 


THE  NORTHERN 


HAVERHILL. 

There  are  three  villages  in  this  town,  but  the  northern 
one  is  where  the  Boston  road  comes  in,  and  where  there 
are  two  good  inns.  The  situation  is  elevated  and  overlooks 
the  meadows  for  some  distance.  The  distant  scenery  is 
here  very  fine,  as  Moosehillock  Mountain  and  several 
others  are  in  plain  view,  and  serve  as  an  introduction  to 
the  White  Mountains,  which  wc  are  approaching. 

On  the  opposite  of  the  river  is  Piermomt,  (and  the 
traveller  may  cross  or  not,)  where  is  a  Sulphur  Spring  q( 
some  local  celebrity,  with  a  building  for  baths.  Some 
distance  south  of  it  is  a  large  house,  in  an  agreeable  situ- 
ation, for  the  accommodation  of  visiters.  It  is  caj^able 
of  receiving  a  great  many  people,  and  has  a  gardei^&nd 
pleasant  rustic  walks  about  it.  The  stables  are  large,  and 
great  expense  had  been  incurred,  which  has  yet  been  ill 
repaid. 

The  Great  Ox-how  is  a  meadow  containing  about  500 
acres,  lying  in  the  town  of  Piermont  on  the  western  bank, 
and  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  The  soil  is  fine  and  valuable ; 
but  from  the  comparative  small  extent  of  the  meadow,  it 
cannot  be  compared  with  that  of  Hadley.  There  are  two 
or  three  houses  seen,  belonging  to  the  family  of  the  first 
settler,  who,  as  may  be  imagined,  soon  acquired  wealth 
from  so  valuable  a  tract  of  laud. 

From  Bath  to  the  White  Mountaihs,  there  are  two 
roads,  one  of  which  turns  ofif  through  Lisbon,  Bethle- 
hem, Breton  Woods,  Nash  and  Sawyer's  Patent,  and 
Shadbourn  and  Hart's  Patent.  [See  Index.] 

Such  is  the  wildness  of  the  country,  that  we  can  do 
little  more  than  enumerate  the  places.  The  road  is  new, 
in  many  places  rocky,  and  in  others  rough  on  account  of 
the  logs  which  have  been  laid  down  to  support  it,  and  the 
remains  of  the  stumps  of  trees.  But  it  is  more  direct 
and  much  less  mountainous,  than  that  which  ps^sses 
through  Lancaster.  It  does  not  however  afford  that  fine 
view  of  the  Connecticut  Valley,  nor  of  the  ranges  of 
mountains  which  there  surround  it,  like  a  magnificent  am- 
phitheatre. 


IS  a  V 
merits 
noble  j 
its  cou 


TBAVELLEK.. 


271 


LANCASTER 

is  A  tery  pleasant  town,  and  the  last  on  the  river  tvhich 
merits  that  name.  The  surrounding  mountains  form  a 
noble  scene,  superior  to  every  other  of  this  nature  along 
its  course.  / 

*  The  namgation  of  Connecticut  River. 

In  1825  a  survey  was  made  of  the  upper  waters  of  this 
river,  as  far  as  Lake  Connecticut,  under  the  authority  of 


*  The  freight,  per  ton,  from  Wells  River  to  Hartford  is  at 
present  $10 ;  and  from  Hartfor''.  to  Wells  River  $20.  From 
Brattleboro^gh  to  Hartford  ( 1 JO  miles)  $6  per  ton  down  and 
$10  up.  Some  counties  in  ue  north-eastern  part  of  Vermont 
now  nnd  it  economical  to  transport  produce  40  or  50  miles  bv 
land  to  St.  Albans,  thence  by  Lake'vChtuT-^lain  to  Whitehall, 
thence  by  the  canal  to  Albany,  and  thence  In  sea  vessels  to 
Boston — ^thuS  passing  the  land,  lake,  canal,  river,  Buund.  and 
ocean.  It  is  to  reduce  the  expense  of  transportation  over  land, 
or  circuitous  water  carriage,  that  the  improvement  of  the 
river  is  to  be  attempted,  from  100  towns  in  Vermont,  the 
average  price  of  transportation  over  kjid,  to  the  nearest  mar- 
ket, is  estimated  at  $22  per  ton — ^wheat,  rye,  or  Indian  com, 
60  cents  a  bushel.  The  average  freight  qfialt  is  more  than 
ite  first  cost ;  and  such  is  the  enormous  freight  of  Plaster  of 
Paris,  as  to  amount  to  a  prohibition  of  its  use. 

For  the  purpose  of  showing  the  difference  between  freights 
now,  and  freights  after  the  improvements  are  made,  the  fol- 
lowing estimate  is  given : 

Present 

freight. 

23  00 

15  00 

As  to  the  amount~of  tonnage,  it  is  estimated  that  16,000  tons 
would  annually  pass  from  towns  in  Vermont,  to  a  market.  By 
the  improvement,  the  saving  on  this,  per  ton,  would  be  $9  80 ; 
and  would  make  an  aggregate  of  $156,800 :  8,000tons  are  esti- 
mated from  New-Hampshire — 10,000  tons  from  towns  in  Mas- 
sachusetts, above  South  Hadley  Falls,  and  12,000  tons  from 
towns  in  Massachusetts,  below  South  Hadley  Falls ;  making  in 
all,  an  annual  saving  to  the  citizens  of  the  valley  of  Connec- 
ticut River,  of  $293,200.   If  there  be  added  to t^sj^t  probable 


From  Bamet  to  Boston, 
From  Brattleborough  to  do. 


Improved. 

11  57 
6  65 


Saving 
per  ton. 
11  43 
8  35 


272 


THE  NORTHERN 


the  adjacent  states,  and  the  general  government ;  and  the 
result  was  such  as  strongly  to  encourage  the  hope,  that  the 
obstructions  in  the  channel  may  iJl  be  overcome,  so  ag 
to  allow  of  the  passive  of  boats  ^ite  up  to  its  source  in 
Lake  Connecticut.  If  such  a  plan  were  executed,  the 
effects  would  prove  of  incalculable  importance  to  the  fer- 
tile and  extensive  regions  through  which  the  river  flows. 
Beside  opening  the  nav^;ation  to  Lake  Connecticut,  be- 
tween Bamet,  Vt.  and  Stewartstown,  N.  H.  it  is  intended 
te  connect  the  river  with  Lake  Memphremagog  by  a  boat 
diannel,  between  Nalhegan  and  Clyde  Rivers. 

The  following  statements  are  given  as  the  results  of 
the  survey.  That  flrom  Barnet  in  Vermont,  to  Hartford 
in  Coaneotiout,  a  diitanoc  of  Htd  miles,  a  depth 
never  less  than  four  feet  at  km  water  may  be  provided, 
and  slack  water  secured  throughout,  so  as  to  foe  naviga- 
ble by  boats  of  heavy  fourden,  at  an  expense  notexce^ing 
flyOTl^dZ?  91:  which  estimate  kas  been  made  en  the  stippo- 
aition  Uiat  the  works  are  to  be  tonstructed  of  the  best  ma- 
terials, and  in  the  most  durable  manner.  Of  the  above 
apeei^  extent,  17  aUes  would  be  canal,  to  avoid  bars  or 
tedious  beods  in  the  eiream,  and  SOS  miles  would  foe  slack 
water  na^gation  formed  in  the  stream  itself,  by  15  dans 
and  41  lodks  propei^  disposed,  and  such  occasional  exca- 
Tations  as  are  found  necessary.  In  addition  to  the  sum 
above  stated  as  the  probable  cost  of  the  works  to  be  con- 
structed, an  amount  of  about  $500,000  must  be  expended 
to  procure  certain  necessary  water  privileges,  now  in  the 
lumds  of  various  individuals  and  companies,  preliminary 
to  the  undertaking ;  which  will  make  the  cost  of  the 
whole  amount  to  $1,571,827  91. 

Canal  from  Connecticut  River  to  Burlington  on  Lake 

Champlain, 

A  survey  has  lately  been  completed,  of  Onion  River, 
from  Lake  Champlain,  at  Burlington,  to  Montpelier,  a 
distance  of  38  miles.    It  is  ascertained  that  a  canal  may 


saving  to  towns  in  Connecticut,  say  $6,800,  the  grand  e^tit 
mate  will  be  safe  at  f900,000.  


TRAVELLEK. 


'276 


and  the 
that  the 
\tf  BO  as 
lource  in 
ited,  the 
» the  fer- 
er  flows, 
ticut,  he- 
intended 
by  a  hoat 

results  of 
Hartford 
a   depth 
provided, 
)e  oaTiga" 
exceeding 
the  stippo- 
liebestnta- 
tbe  above 
oid  bars  or 
ltd  be  slack 
jy  15  dans 
ional  exca- 
to  the  sum 
I  to  be  con* 
e  expended 
now  in  the 
)reUininary 
:ost  of  the 


be  made  on  three  levels,  the  amount  of  fall  at  three  points 
being  394  feet.  The  height  of  Lake  Champlain  above  the 
Hudson  Rivef,  at  Albany,  is  86  feet.  The  elevation  from 
Montpelier  towards  the  Connecticut  Uiver,  to  Gnion 
River  Pond,  was  found  to  be  877  feet,  and  the  fall  thence 
to  the  mouth  of  Wells  River  on  the  Connecticut  918  feet, 
making  the  whole  lockage  from  Lake  Champlain  to  the 
Connecticut  2189  feet.  By  another  route  through  Dog 
River,  where  there  is  a  less  abundant  supply  of  water, 
and  White  River,  to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  the  lockage 
is  1468  feeet.— [Boston  Daily  Mv,] 

[Having  now  completed  the  route  up  Connecticut 
River,  we  return  to  Long  Island  Sound.  For  other  routes 
and  places,  see  Index.] 


i  .1 


•h/*  •     ?•   1    1.  '^ii''.' 


!  , 


»■  ,  :i  ;>-;,'  > 


^   -  i,  \  '  -V-''^  1 


nion  Ri»er> 
ontpelier,  a 
canal  may 


'3  ■: 


■  '  kt  .  ~' 


B  b  9 


«74 


THE  NORHERN 


'v( 


■♦» 


NEW-LONDON. 


Entering  New-London  Habour,  on  the  left  is  the  Light 
House,  and  the  dwelling  of  Gen.  North,  once  aid-de-camp 
to  Baron  Steuben.  The  tihore  beyond  is  inhabited  by 
fishermen,  whose  boats  (called  smacks)  are  generally  to 
be  seen  in  great  numbers. 


Fort  Trombuil 


M 


(  i 


occupies  a  point  beyond.  It  is  a  small  work,  and  garri- 
soned by  the  United  States.  It  was  taken  in  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  as  well  as  the  town  and  Fort  Gmtoold,  which 
stands  on  the  high  hill  opposite.  Looking  up  the  River 
Thames,  the  prospect  is  handsome,  the  banks  being  high 
and  cultivated,  and  backed  by  Horton's  Hill,  several  miies 
distant,  in  the  Mohegan  country. 

The  Harbour  of  Mew-London  is  one  of  the  most  ac- 
cessible, safe,  and  commodious  in  the  United  States,  lying 
near  the  Ocean  and  the  Sound,  almost  surrounded  by 
high  land,  and  having  water  enough  for  ships  of  war  quite 
up  to  the  wharve8,-witb  a  fine  sandy  bottom  near  the 
shores.  Unfortunately,  however,  there  is  no  convenient 
communication  far  into  the  country,  and  the  region  about 
it  is  far  from  fertile,  so  that  the  place  can  never  attain 
much  importance.  It  serves  in  some  degree  as  the  port 
of  Connecticut  River,  because  there  is  no  good  harbour 
there ;  and  a  great  deal  of  trade  was  carried  on  with  the 
West  Indies  a  few  years  ago. 

New-London  is  the  third  town  in  Connecticut  for  the 
number  of  inhabitants,  and  like  several  of  the  other  prin- 
cipal places,  although  so  small,  ei^joys  the  privileges  of  a 
city.  It  is  situated  irregularly,  principally  at  the  foot  of 
a  hill,  facing  the  east,  and  wears  an  appearance  of  de- 
cline ;  but  some  of  the  houses  are  handsome,  and  there 
are  several  fine  situations  near  the  top  of  the  hill. 

One  of  the  steam  boats  stops  here ;  and  the  other,  after 
landing  and  receiving  passengers,  proceeds  up  the  river 
to  Norwich,  13  miles. 

There  is  a  road  hence  to  Providence,  and  another  from 


TUAVELLl^U. 


275 


Norwicb,  both  equally  uninteresting,  and  nearly  of  equal 
length.  The  river,  however,  affords  some  very  pretty 
scenes,  and  Norwich  is  a  neat  and  interesting  town. 
The  prices  have  hitherto  been  nearly  the  same  for  the  two 
routes.       ^    ■•  '. 


i;.i!j 


FoiiT  Griswold, 


on  the  high  hill  opposite  New-London,  was  garrisoned  by 
a  few  continental  troops  in  the  year  1781,  in  the  revolu- 
tion, when  Benedict  Arnold,  after  his  treacherous  dr  ser- 
lion  of  the  American  cause,  appeared  iff  the  harbour  ^'ith 
a  British  force  on  the  6th  of  Septemb  r;  and  landing  800 
men  on  each  point  of  the  harbour,  msTched  up  und  took 
Fort  Trumbull,  and  burnt  the  town.  Co!  £]  e,  who 
commanded  the  troops  on  the  eastern  shore,  proceeded  to- 
wards Fort  Griswold,  and  sending  in  a  flag  of  truce,  'v 
manded  a  surrender. 

But  before  this  time,  Col.  Lcdyard  had  entereu  the 
fort,  and  garrisoned  it  with  120  men,  chiefly  a^'iitia  vo- 
lunteers ^om  the  neighbourhood.  The  B  itis.:  troops 
had  advanced  under  cover  of  a  wood,  and  invested  the 
fort ;  but  the  Americans  defended  themselves  for  some 
time,  beating  off  their  enemies  once,  and  finally  surren* 
dering  only  when  resistance  would  have  been  entirely 
useless.  The  enemy  had  lost  41  officers  antl  men,  who 
were  buried  near  the  spot ;  with  Col.  Ay  res,  the  command- 
er, wounded,  and  Maj.  Montgomery  killed.  After  the 
surrender,  however,  a  massacre  of  the  prisoners  took 
place,  which  cast  the  deepest  disgrace  on  the  expedition : 
70  officers  and  men  being  the  victims,  most  of  whom 
were  heads  of  families.  Many  ok  (!>'.;  wounded  were  also 
treated  in  a  most  barbarous  manner ,  i>eing  placed  in  a  cart, 
and  rolled  down  the  hill  just  south  of  the  present  road  to 
the  fort. 

This  melancholy  event  wr  5  commemorated  on  the  6th 
day  of  September,  1S25,  by  a  procession,  an  oration,  &c. 
and  arrangements  were  made  for  building  by  subscription 
a  monument  on  tbe  spot. 

The  objects  on  the  Thames,  at  Norwich,  &c.  will  be 
taken  up  on  page  277. 


■■ay*' 


'27ti  THE  NORTHERN 


Road  from  NEW-LONDON  to  PROVIDENCE. 

FoRt  Hill  is  a  commanding  eminence,  about  4  miles 
east  from  this  place,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  Pequod 
Fort,  which  formerly  occupied  its  summit.  A  road  cross- 
es it  near  the  southern  limit  of  the  fort,  and  a  small 
church  stands  a  quarter  of  a  mile  above,  within  the  ex- 
tensive space  once  enclosed  by  that  palisaded  work.  It 
was  the  great  fortress  of  the  terrible  Pequod  nation,  which 
makes  a  very  conspicuous  figure  in  the  early  history  of 
the  eastern  colonies.  They  had  fought  their  way  from 
the  interior,  and  seated  themselves  in  the  present  limits 
of  Groton,  where  the  few  poor  remains  of  their  descend- 
ants still  are  found.  On  the  arrival  of  the  English,  they 
had  extended  their  conquests  a  considerable  distance  up 
Connecticut  River,  and  the  Eastern  and  Western  Nehan- 
tics  on  the  coast  were  subject  to  them. 

In  consequence  of  the  murders  they  had  committed, 
and  the  attack  with  which  they  threatened  the  infant 
settlements  at  Hartford,  Windsor,  and  Wethersfield,  the 
inhabitants  formed  an  expedition  in  the  spring  of  1637, 
led  by  Capt.  Mason,  attacked  their  other  fort  on  the  Mys- 
tic, burnt  it,  and  killed  about  600  persons :  after  which 
the  nation  fled  from  their  country ;  and  having  suffered 
another  terrible  slaughter  in  the  swamp  at  Fairfield,  (see 
page  231,)  were  reduced  to  slavery,  and  ceased  from  that 
time  to  be  an  object  of  terror. 

This  hill  commands  an  extensive  and  delightful  view, 
being  almost  entirely  clear  of  obstructions,  and  being  su- 
perior in  height  to  the  neighbouring  hills.  A  considerable 
extent  of  Long  Island  and  the  Sound  are  overlooked  from 
the  summit,  with  various  islands,  bays,  and  points  on 
the  Connecticut  Coast.  At  the  time  of  the  burning  of 
Mystic  Fort,  it  was  occupied  by  the  chief  Sachem  Sassa- 
cus,  who  hastened  to  the  relief  of  his  subjects,  but  ar- 
rived too  late  to  render  them  any  assistance.  On  his 
return  here,  he  burnt  the  weekwams,  and  palisadoes,  and 
immediately  fled  for  refuge  to  the  Mohawks,  by  whom  he 
ivas  beheaded. 

Mystic,  7^  miles.  ,, 

Stonington.  10  miles*. 


'/'"'"««»• 


TRAVELLER. 


277 


On  descending  the  hill  nvhich  leads  into  this  village, 
Porter's  Rock,  30  or  40  feet  high,  is  seen  a  little  off  the 
road  on  the  right  hand.  Under  the  shelter  of  it,  it  is  said, 
Capt.  Mason  encamped  with  his  little  army,  on  the  night 
of  May  26,  1637,  old  style,  a  few  hours  before  his  suc- 
cessful attack  on  the  Pequod  Fort,  which  was  on  the  top 
of  a  hill  about  two  miles  south  of  this  place. 

During  the  last  war,  a  small  fort  in  this  town  was  at- 
tacked by  a  ship  and  two  brigs  of  Com.  Hardy's  squadron, 
and  defp'nded  by  the  inhabitants  with  great  gallantry. 

HoPKiNTON,  11  miles. 

Wrst  Greenwich,  15  miles. 

Centreville,  2  miles. 

[Here  are  two  cotton  manufactories,  about  half  a  mile 
apart,  and  two  weaving  shops,  with  their  little  settlements, 
principally  inhabited  by  the  work  people.] 

Providence,  11  miles.    (Seepage  284.) 


THE  RIVER  THAMES. 

SUam  Boia  Route  Jrom  NEW-LONDON  to  NORWICH. 

A  little  above  New-London,  there  is  a  singular  rock, 
on  the  east  side,  where  the  explorers  of  the  river  are 
said  to  have  landed,  and  to  have  been  attacked  by  the 
Pequods.  The  Mohegan  country  lies  above,  on  the 
west  side,  with  HortorCs  Hilly  on  the  top  of  which  Uncas 
had  a  fort,  something  of  which  still  remains.  It  is  a 
very  commanding  position,  and  overlooks  the  surround- 
ing country.  During  the  late  war,  the  government  ships 
Macedonian,  United  States,  and  Hornet,  which  were  in 
the  river,  lay  moored  here  for  a  length  of  time,  and  their 
guns  were  drawn  up  by  oxen  to  the  top  of  the  hill  on 
the  east  shore,  above  the  little  cove.  A  small  battery 
was  also  constructed  on  the  little  spur  projecting  from  the 
hill  in  front.  3  or  4000  militia  were  also  stationed  on 
the  opposite  shore  for  their  further  security. 

Massapeague  Point,  just  above.  Here  the  river  is 
quite  narrow,  opening  northward  into  a  small  lake. 

There  is  a  small  Island  on  the  eastern  shore,  on  which 


^78 


THE  NORTHERN 


is  a  stone  cottage,  built  by  the  soldiers  for  a  poor  family 
which  resided  here  during  the  war.  It  lies  at  the  entrance 
of  a  pretty  cove,  which  makes  up  a  mile.  Commodore 
Decatur  brought  the  ships  up  here,  for  still  greater  secu- 
rity against  the  British  cruizing  off  New-London  Harbour. 
The  place  where  they  lay  is  Kiah^s  Cwe^  a  mile  above  the 
island. 

Above  this  place,  the  river  has  been  impeded  by  sand, 
washed  down  by  the  Shetucket  River,  and  attempts  are 
making  to  remedy  it  by  building  piers.  At  low  water,  it 
is  now  7^  or  8  feet  deep,  and  the  tide  rises  from  2  to  2^ 
feet. 

Trading  Cove,  1  mile  above  Kiah's  Cove,  is  a  hand- 
some little  bay,  making  up  into  the  Indian  country,  and 
derived  its  name  from  the  barter  formerly  carried  on  here 
between  the  white  men  and  the  Mohegans.  Uneasy  the 
Sachem  of  Mohegan,  was  believed  to  be  of  Pequod  de- 
scent, but  in  a  ^tate  of  successful  revolt  at  the  time  the 
English  became  acquainted  with  him.  His  chief  residence 
was  near  this  cove,  now  the  centre  of  the  Indian  Reser- 
vation ;  but  the  burying  ground  of  the  royal  family  was 
near  Norwich  Landing,  (which  is  in  sight  from  this  place.) 
He  had  conquered  the  country  as  far  north  as  about  the 
present  Massachusetts  line,  but  became  an  early  friend  of 
the  whites,  and  rendered  them  important  services,  par- 
ticularly in  war,  as  well  as  his  successors,  the  later  Mo- 
hegan Chiefs. 

Before  this  part  of  the  state  was  settled,  Uncas  was 
once  so  closely  besieged  by  his  enemies  the  Pequods,  that 
he  suffered  extremely  from  a  scarcity  of  provisions,  and 
was  relieved  only  by  the  care  of  a  man  named  Leffing- 
well,  who  was  despatched  from  Connecticut  with  a  boat 
loaded  with  provisions.  In  gratitude,  Uncas  gave  him  a 
large  part  of  the  present  town  of  Norwich  for  this  im- 
portant service.  There  is  a  rock  still  pointed  out  on  the 
shore,  and  called  Uncas's  Chair,  where  the  Sachem  is 
said  to  have  set  and  watched  the  arrival  of  his  frien...  . 

On  the  south  side,  Trading  Cove  is  bounded  by  Nab 
Cooper's  Hill,  an  appellation  somewhat  quaint  for  a  neigh- 
bourhood not  deficient  in  romantic  association.  Beyond 
is  Fott  Hillf  which  derived  its  name  from  a  little  *ace  of 
strength  erected  in  old  times  by  the  Indians,  ^r  a  pro^ 


TRAVELLER. 


aTty 


tection  against  othev  nations  small  Uke  itself.  The  poor  re- 
mains  of  this  tribe  reside  on  the  lands  secured  to  them 
by  the  state  government,  and  live  in  all  the  ignorance, 
idlenses,  and  thriftlessness  common  to  Indians  in  this  part 
of  the  country :  melancholy  testimonies  of  the  degrada- 
tion  to  which  the  most  active  human  minds  may  sink 
when  every  customary  impulse  to  exertion  has  been  stifled, 
and  no  new  incitement  extended.  An  Indian  could  for- 
merly equal  or  surpass  his  companions  by  an  extraordi- 
nary display  of  swiftness  and  skill  in  the  chase,  or  con* 
duct  and  courage  in  war  ;  and  what  exertions  were  not 
made  for  the  attainment  of  such  distinction  ?  Red  men 
have  traversed  these  beautiful  shores  in  the  pursuit  of 
game  or  the  tracks  of  their  enemies,  and  suffered  all  the 
severities  of  climate  and  privation,  of  wounds  and  of 
torture,  for  those  white  men  whose  sons  now  neglect  and 
despise  their  descendants,  and  coldly  question  their  ca>- 
pacity  for  improvement. 


NORWICH. 

Stage  Coaches  go  on  to  Providence  and  Boston,  and 
there  are  others  in  different  directions. 

It  contains  three  villages,  of  which  Chelsea  Landing 
is  the  principal,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  singular  situa- 
tion, as  well  as  for  its  appearance  of  business,  which  is 
much  favoured  by  the  numerous  manufactories  in  the 
neighbouring  country.  The  Plain  is  about  a  mile  north, 
and  a  very  pleasant  place. 

On  the  way  thither  is  seen  the  Cove,  at  the  upper  end 
of  which  are  the  Falls  of  the  Yantic,  a  stream  which 
pours  over  a  ledge  of  granite  about  40  feet  high,  and  sup- 
plies several  manufactories  with  water.  The  place  is 
highly  picturesque.  A  rock,  70  or  80  feet  in  height,  over- 
hangs the  stream,  whence  a  number  of  Narragansett  In- 
dians once  precipitated  themselves  when  pursued  by  the 
Mohegans. 

The  Burying  Ground  op  the  Uncasses 

is  on  the  elevated  bank  north  of  the  Cove,  on  the  grounds 
of  Judge  Goddard,     There  are  stones  marking  the  grave?" 


280 


THE  NORTHERN 


of  numerous  members  of  the  royal  family  of  the  Mohc 
gans,  and  a  few  of  them  bear  English  inscriptions.  The 
family  is  now  extinct,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two 
degenerate  beings,  who  hate  nothing  but  their  name  to 
boast  of.  Uncas,  the  old  friend  of  the  white  men,  is 
buried  here.  He  and  his  nation  were  the  only  steady 
allies  they  ever  found  among  the  Indians,  who  was  steady 
and  powerful  enough  to  render  them  very  essential  ser- 
vice. He  was  a  man  of  extraordinary  talent,  and  withal, 
extremely  politic ;  but  he  refused  to  join  the  general  in- 
surrection under  King  Philip  in  1675,  and  died  a  friend  of 
the  white  men. 

This  plain  was  the  principal  summer  residence  of  the 
Mobegans. 

The  Cotton  Manufactory  is  a  very  large  establish- 
ment, under  the  bank,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yaoiic. 
The  position  is  well  selected,  and  the  sum  expended  in 
buildmgs  and  machinery  very  great.  It  is  owned  by  a 
company  in  Boston,  from  which  city  a  vast  amount  of 
capital  has  been  expended  in  all  parts  of  New-England 
for  similar  objects,  as  the  traveller  ivill  have  opportunity 
to  perceive  as  he  proceeds. 

Canal.  Surveys  were  made  in  1825  for  a  Canal  to 
run  from  Norwich  parallel  to  Connecticut  River,  up  the 
Quinebaugh  River  to  Massachusetts.  The  supply  of 
water  is  considered  abundant  at  all  seasons,  and  the  tract 
of  country  through  which  it  is  to  pass  extremely  favoura- 
ble to  the  execution  of  such  a  design,  as  well  as  by  its 
fertility  and  population,  encouraging  to  its  success.  It  is 
to  pass  through  the  following  towns :  Springfield,  Palmer, 
Western,  Brookfield,  Sturbridge,  Southbridge,  and  Dud- 
ley, to  the  Quinebaugh. 

Road  from  NORWICH  to  PROVIDENCE. 

The  road  follows  the  course  of  the  Quinebaugh  River 
for  some  distance,  through  a  hilly  tract  of  country,  and 
near  a  fine  cataract  in  that  stream.  At  the  distance  of 
1 1  miles  from  Norwich,  it  passes 

Sachem's  Field. 

This  is  an  elevated  plain,  on  which  a,  battle  was  foiigh' 


V;'^!"^:V?^'7V?^'  ' 


TRAVELLER. 


281 


in  the  year  1643,  between  about  900  Narragansetts,  (who 
inhabited  Rhode  Island,)  and  500  or  600  Mohegans.  The 
Sachem  of  the  former,  Miantonimo,  intending  to  chastise 
Uncas  for  his  adherence  to  the  English,  secretly  adranced 
into  his  country  with  an  army ;  but  Uncas  was  aware  of 
his  approach,  and  met  him  on  this  plain,  where  both  par- 
ties halted. 

Uncas  resorted  to  a  stratagem.  He  stepped  forward 
alone,  and  challenged  Miantonimo  to  decide  the  quarrel 
single-handed.  This,  as  he  expected,  was  refused  ;  and 
while  his  enemies  were  not  prepared,  he  gave  a  signal  by 
falling  down,  when  his  men  instantly  set  up  a  yell,  dis- 
charged their  arrows,  and  rushed  forward.  The  Narra- 
gansetts  fled,  and  many  of  them  yere  killed.  Uncas  cap- 
tured Miantonimo  himself,  but  tLj  haughty  Indian  would 
not  ask  for  quarter  nor  speak  a  word.  He  was  taken  to 
Hartford,  and  after  a  trial,  was  delivered  to  Uncas  for 
execution.  He  was  brought  back  to  this  place,  and  while 
iDArchiiig  across  the  field,  was  tomahawked  on  a  spot  a 
little  east  of  the  road,  where  a  heap  of  stones  for  many 
years  marked  the  place  of  his  burial. 

Jewett's  Gitt  is  a  small  manufacturing  place,  7  miles 
from  Norwich.  There  are  three  cotton  manufactories 
here,  one  with  2000  spindles. 


Plainfield 


and 


IS 


good,  and 
the  route  of 


is  a  pleasant  village ;  the  inn  is  large 
overlooks  a  fertile  plain,  through  which 
the  proposed  canal  to  Brookfield,  Mass, 

On  crossing  the  line  of  Rhode  Island,  the  country  be- 
comes uninteresting.  The  farmers  are  poor  and  negli- 
gent ;  there  are  no  villages  deserving  of  the  name,  and 
nothing  worthy  of  particular  notice,  except  one  or  two 
small  manufactories. 

Providence.     See  page  2S4. 


as  fougfe' 


NEWPORT. 

This  place  possesses  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the 
United  States.     The  entrance  is  guarrlcd  by  the  Dum- 


i262 


THE  NORTHERN 


plihgs  Forti  and  Fort  Adams ;  and  the  scenery  about  it  is 


Fort  Adams  on  Brenton's  Point  has  had  some  addi- 
tions made  to  its  defences,  and  is  to  embrace,  when  com< 
pleted,  an  extent  of  130  acres.  A  range  of  guns  is  to 
line  the  shore  towards  the  west,  as  far  down  as  the  first 
rising  ground.  It  is  proposed  to  fortify  the  Dumplings 
at  an  expense  of  $500,000. 

Fort  Woolcott  is  on  Goat  Island,  opposite  the  town. 

Newport  extends  about  a  mile  along  the  shore,  but 
presents  the  aspect  of  decay,  as  the  commerce  has  been 
removed  to  Providence.  The  situation  has  many  advan- 
tages ;  and  this  with  the  cheapness  of  rent  will  probably 
render  it  the  temporary  abode  of  many  strangers  during 
the  warm  season. 

Thb  Windmill,  an  old  stone  tower  on  the  top  of  the 
hill,  is  a  conspicuous  object,  although  long  disused. 
There  are  four  churches  visible ;  and  the  Library,  a  small 
but  neat  and  correct  specimen  of  architecture  in  the  up- 
per part  of  the  town,  is  worthy  of  attention.  The  houses 
of  the  town  are  thickly  clustered  about  the  margin,  but 
make  rather  a  gloomy  appearance  on  account  of  the  want 
of  paint  and  repair ;  the  place  having  experienced  a  gradual 
declension  produced  by  the  success  of  Providence,  30 
miles  further  up. 

The  Poor  House  is  on  Coaster's  Harbour  Island,  about 
a  mile  above  the  totvn,  seen  in  passing  in  the  steam  boat. 
The  island  belongs  to  the  town,  and  contains  SO  acres. 
The  building  is  three  stories  high,  of  stone,  and  con- 
tains 50  or  60  poor.  Those  who  are  able,  work  on  the 
land,  and  others  on  different  manufactures ;  but  most  of 
them  are  women,  and  some  superannuated.  The  keeper 
receives  50  cents  a  week  (or  the  board  of  each,  which  is 
paid  by  the  town,  to  which  the  products  of  the  labour  are 
credited.  Since  this  establishment  has  been  formed,  the 
expenses  of  the  poor  to  the  town  have  been  reduced  one- 
half. 

The  beach  behind  the  town,  like  the  whole  circuit  of 
the  city,  on  the  land  side,  was  defended  by  a  line  of  troops, 
batteries,  &c.  during  the  possession  of  it  by  the  English 
LQ  the  revolutionary  war ;  and  the  opposite  high  grounds 
were  occupied  by  the  American  army,  whose  head  quar 


TRAVELLER. 


233 


lers  were  on  Taumony  Hill,  a  mile  and  a  half,  or  tbert:- 
abouts,  from  the  town  ;  and  an  elevation  which  affords  an 
extensive  view  on  every  side.  It  is  said  to  have  derived 
its  name  from  some  old  Indian  chief,  whose  life,  and  pc- 
riod)  and  exploits,  have  been  entirely  lost.  Gen.  Prescott 
was  taken  here  during  the  war,  by  a  bold  party  of  men 
under  Col.  Barton,  who  landed  secretly  from  a  boat  in  the 
night,  went  to  the  British  head  quarter?,  and  conveyed 
their  captive  away  before  the  land  or  naval  forces,  then  in 
the  harbour,  could  prevent  them.  The  place  was  block- 
aded by  the  British  fleet. 

During  the  possession  of  the  place  by  the  enemy,  the 
trees  were  cut  down  for  fuel ;  and  although  the  soil  is 
admirably  calculated  for  the  growth  of  fruit  trees,  and 
was  before  that  period,  quite  covered  with  the  finest 
orchards  ;  it  is  now  so  divested  of  trees  of  every  descrip- 
tion, as  to  appear  remarkably  naked  and  monotonous  for 
an  American  scene.  The  fertility  of  the  ground,  and  the 
excellence  of  the  crops,  however,  as  well  as  the  neatness 
and  precision  ivith  which  the  fields  are  cultivated,  and 
regularly  divided  by  fine  stone  walls,  present  a  picture  of 
agricultural  beauty  rarely  paralleled  in  the  United  States. 

Fort  Green  is  a  little  battery  erected  on  the  water's 
edge,  about  a  mile  above  the  town. 

Mount  Hope,  famous  as  the  ancient  royal  residence 
of  the  Narraganset  Indians,  and  particularly  as  the  abode 
of  King  Philip,  and  the  scene  of  his  death,  is  seen  from 
a  few  miles  beyond  Newport,  towards  the  north-west. 
It  rises  in  Warren,  on  the  shore  of  an  arm  of  the  bay, 
and  will  be  particularly  described  hereafter.  The  view 
of  it  is  soon  afterwards  cut  off  by  the  intervention  of 
Prudence  Island^  which  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and 
presents  the  same  fertile  soil  and  gently  swelling  surface 
as  that  of  Rhode  Island.  The  inhabitants  are  few,  as  are 
those  of  Patience  and  Hope :  islands  of  a  much  smaller 
size.  Despair  is  a  cluster  of  rocks  on  the  left,  near  the 
island  of  Hope,  the  north  end  of  which  is  20  miles  from 
Providence. 

The  banks  along  the  remaining  part  of  the  river  pre- 
sent little  that  is  remarkable.  The  Coal  Mine  is  near  the 
north  end  of  Rhode  Island.    The  coal  is  anthracite. 


234 


THE  NORTHERN 


PROVIDENCE. 

This  is  the  second  city  in  New- England,  both  in  popu- 
lation, wealth,  and  beauty.  It  contained,  in  1825,  about 
16,U00  inhabitants,  and  is  beautifully  as  well  as  advan> 
tageously  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation,  on  the  river 
of  the  same  name.  - 

Brown  University, 

the  greatest  institution  of  learning  in  the  state,  is  built 
on  the  summit  of  a  high  hill,  the  ascent  to  which  is  not 
very  easy,  although  it  is  laid  out  in  streets  decorated  with 
some  of  the  finest  houses  in  this  part  of  the  country ; 
dispersed  among  spacious  gardens,  and  mingling  the  de> 
lights  of  the  country  with  the  splendour  of  a  city.  Inhere 
are  two  brick  buildings  belonging  to  this  institution,  which 
contained,  in  1S25, 156  students. 

The  town  was  settled  by  Roger  Williams,  who  left  the 
old  colonies  in  consequence  of  a  disagreement  in  religious 
doctrines.  He  built  his  house  on  the  shore,  near  the 
present  episcopal  church.  Many  of  the  society  of  Qua- 
kers or  Friends  afterwards  joined  him,  whose  descendants 
form  a  large  share  of  the  population  of  the  state. 

The  road  between  Providence  and  Pawtucket,  4  miles, 
is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States ;  as  the  law  re- 
quires that  all  the  income  above  10  per  cent,  shall  be  de- 
voted to  repairs  ;  and  the  travelling  is  very  great.  It  is 
hard  and  smooth,  and  is  to  be  furnished  with  a  convenient 
side  walk  the  whole  distance. 


Pawtucket 

is  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing  places  in  this  part  of 
the  country,  and  has  increased  surprisingly  within  a  few 
years.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  varied  and  somewhat 
romantic  ;  while  the  fall,  which  is  under  the  bridge,  fur- 
nishes a  most  valuable  water  power.  There  are  three 
new  manufactories  building  at  Centre  Falls,  about  a  mile 
above.  Cotton  is  principally  manufactured  here,  though 
there  is  machinery  devoted  to  other  purposes.    The  influx 


} 


TRAVELLER. 


^80 


oi  strangers,  many  of  them  poor  and  ignorant  for- 
eigners, and  most  of  them  removed  from  the  wholesome 
restraints  of  a  better  society,  has  produced  unfavour- 
able eflTects  on  habits  and  morals ;  which  is  the  worst 
feature  in  the  manufacturing  system. 

Blackstone  Canal. 

This  canal,  which  is  intended  to  reach  to  Worcester, 
Mass.  will  run  along  the  course  of  the  Blackstone  River 
for  several  miles.  That  stream  is  seen  on  leaving  Provi- 
dence, and  lies  west  of  the  road  to  Boston.  The  road 
now  in  use  is  new,  and  shorter  than  the  old,  but  avoids 
several  villages  which  that  passes  through,  and  presents 
very  few  objects  worthy  of  notice. 

r 

Attleborough. 

The  inn  at  this  place  stands  on  the  spot  once  occupied 
by  a  block  house,  built  on  the  frontier  of  the  Indian 
country  before  Philip's  war.  Opposite  is  an  old  burying 
ground,  which  contains  the  body  of  the  first  man  killed 
here  by  the  savages. 

Walpole. 
Here  the  stage  coaches  usually  stop  to  dine  or  breakfast. 

Dediiam, 
10  miles  from  Boston,  , 

is  a  large  and  beautiful  village,  with  regular  and  well  built 
streets,  and  some  quite  elegant  houses. 

Blue  Hills.  This  is  a  pleasant  retreat,  about  7  miles 
from  the  city  of  Boston,  and  much  re&iorted  to  in  the 
summer  season  ;  as  a  large  house  of  entertainment  has 
been  recently  erected  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  whence 
the  place  derives  its  name ;  and  the  summit,  which  is 
considered  about  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean, 
commands  a  fine  and  extensive  view.  A  small  house  has 
also  been  built .  on  the  top,  where  the  view  is  the  finest, 
for  the  temporary  repose  and  supply  of  visiters.    On  the 

Oc2 


.a.    5  _^-cr    ^  ; 


^6 


TUB  NORTHERN 


northern  side,  the  view  embraces,  in  a  clear  day,  the  Grceu 
Mountains  in  Vermont,  and  the  White  Mountains  in  New- 
Hampshire,  with  a  wide  extent  of  country  between ;  Na- 
hant,  and  in  general,  all  Boston  Bay,  is  seen  eastwardly^ 
and  near  at  hand. 

The  hills  are  seen  on  the  right  from  the  road,  a  few 
miles  south  of  Boston. 


ROXBUKY. 

On  the  Neck  which  leads  to  Boston,  we  pass  the  re- 
mains  of  the  entrenchments  thrown  up  by  General  Wash- 
ington, in  1776,  to  shut  the  British  troops  up  in  the  town  ; 
and  a  little  beyond  them  is  the  place  where  Gen  Gage 
before  drew  his  line  across,  to  command  the  communica- 
tion between  it  and  the  country.  The  country  ou  both 
sides  retains  marks  of  the  American  forts,  redoubts,  &c. 
and  Dorchester  Heights  on  the  east  are  crowned  with 
the  works  thrown  up  by  Washington,  which  commanded 
Boston  and  the  anchorage ;  and  forced  the  enemy  to 
evacuate  the  place.  Emliarking  here  in  their  fleet,  they 
went  round  to  Long  Island,  and  soon  after  entered  New- 
York. 


TUAVELl.ER. 


•28: 


BOSTON. 

Hotels,  &c.    The  Exchange.     Marlborough  Hotel. 

Boston  contains  an  uncommon  proportion  of  fine  build- 
ings, particularly  private  residences  :  for  it  not  only  pos- 
sesses much  wealth,  but  it  is  more  fashionable  here  than 
in  many  other  places,  to  fit  merchants  for  the  compting 
house  by  a  liberal  education,  by  which  means  taste,  as 
well  as  science,  is  fostered.  The  finest  buildings  are  of 
whitish  granite,  brought  from  the  shores  of  the  Mcrrimac 
River,  being  found  in  abundance  at  different  places,  from 
Chelmsford  to  Concord,  N.  H.  It  is  transported  to  Bos- 
ton by  the  Middlesex  Canal,  and  is  not  only  beautiful  and 
lasting,  but  obtained  at  a  moderate  price. 

The  New  Market 

is  constructed  of  this  material,  and  is  of  the  following  di- 
mansions:  a  centre  building  74^  feet  by  5.5,  with  wings, 
extending  in  all  536  feet,  with  a  fine  facade  at  each  end, 
with  granite  columns  of  single  pieces,  21  feet  high,  and 
weighing,  each,  14  or  15  tons  ;  a  row  of  granite  buildings 
on  each  side,  4  stories  high,  for  stores,  more  than  500  feet. 

The  Common 

is  a  fine  piece  of  ground,  on  the  south-western  side  of  the 
city,  and  one  of  its  greatest  ornaments.  The  surface  is 
agreeably  varied  by  a  few  gentle  undulations,  and  it  is  de- 
corated by  rows  of  handsome  dwelling  houses  on  two 
sides,  while  on  the  third,  it  is  bounded  by  the  bay  of 
Charles's  lliver,  and  affords  an  extensive  view  in  that  direc- 
tion, embracing  a  tract  of  cultivated  billy  country^'  A 
range  of  buildings  near  the  south  end  of  the  Common, 
bears  the  name  of  Colonnade  Row,  in  consequence  of 
their  being  all  alike  furnished  with  white  columns. 

The  State  House 

is  the  principal  .object  seen  in  approaching  the  city,  and 
stands  on  a  considerable  eminence  at  the  north  side  of 


28g 


THE  NOUTUEKN 


the  Common.  It  has  a  double  range  of  columns  in  liotu 
of  the  main  building,  and  a  large  dome  on  the  top,  to  which 
a  somewhat  intricate  stair^case  leads,  affording  the  most 
extensive  view  uf  Boston  and  the  hurrounding  country 
which  is  to  be  found.  The  hills  at  Dorchester,  Uuxbury, 
Brighton,  Cambridge,  Charlestown,  &c.  together  with  the 
numerous  islands,  which  protect  the  harbour,  form  an 
amphitheatre,  very  regular  and  beautiful ;  and  the  villages 
ivhich  are  seen  in  every  direction,  almost  entirely  line 
their  shores.  The  mingling  of  land  and  water  in  this 
scene  is  very  fine ;  and  it  is  easy,  at  a  glance,  to  compre« 
hend  the  plan  of  the  various  measures,  adopted  during  the 
llevolutionary  war,  for  the  defence  and  the  capture  of  the 
place. 

Gen.  Gage,  in  1775,  ran  a  breast  work  across  Roxbury 
neck,  which  is  very  narrow,  in  order  to  command  the  only 
land  communication  with  the  neighbouring  country,  and 
then  continued  those  acts  of  oppression  upon  the  people, 
which  exasperated  the  colonies  so  much  against  him. 
Contributions  were  sent  in  for  their  relief  from  all  parts 
of  the  colonies. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  while  the  forces  which  had 
repaired  to  this  threatened  scene,  had  their  head  quarters 
at  Cambridge,  a  body  of  men,  principally  formed  of  detach* 
ments  from  Massachusetts  and  New-Hampshire  regi- 
ments, having  fortified  themselves  on  Breed's  Hill,  (an  in- 
ferior eminence  behind  Charlestown,)  manfully  disputed 
the  ground  with  the  British  troops,  sent  over  from  Bos" 
ton  to  occupy  it.  The  loss  was  great  on  both  sides,  parti- 
cularly on  that  of  the  assailants,  who  were  driven  back  in 
three  attacks.  The  boldness  of  these  raw  troops^  and  the 
success  with  which  they  so  long  withstood  the  charges  of 
the  regulars,  was  of  the  utmost  use,  by  encouraging  the 
country,  and  by  convincing  the  English  that  they  were 
fighting  a  powerful  foe.  The  battle  usually  goes  by  the 
name  of  Bunker's  Hill ;  but  should,  in  strict  propriety, 
be  called  after  Breed's  Hill,  as  the  latter  is  a  distinct  em- 
inence, although,  perhaps,  a  spur  from  the  former. 

The  British  landed  near  a  point,  just  beyond  where  the 
navy  yard  is  now  seen;  and  the  American  defences  consist- 
ed of  a  small  earth  redoubt  on  the  top  of  Breed's  Hill,  and  a 
iJuuble  rail  fence,  stuffed  with  new  hay,  extending  from  it 


THAVELLttt. 


S8'J 


to  the  water.  Some  remains  of  these  works  are  still  to 
be  traced.  A  British  sloop  of  war,  lay,  durihg  the  ac- 
tion, in  Mystic  Iliver,  beyond  the  navy  yard,  and  kept  up 
a  cross  fire  upon  the  low  neck,  which  connects  the  penin- 
sula of  Charlestown  with  the  main  land. 

The  17th  of  June,  1825,  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  this 
battle,  was  commemorated  with  very  appropriate  ceremo- 
nies ;  and  the  corner  stone  of  a  monument  was  laid  in  an 
angle  of  the  old  redoubt,  on  Breed's  Hill,  with  Masonic 
ceremonies.  A  large  number  of  Revolutionary  officers 
and  soldiers  assembled ;  and  the  monument  is  to  be 
erected  at  the  expense  of  private  contributions. 

After  the  battle  of  Bunker^s  hill,  the  Continental  troops 
were  drawn  in  a  more  complete  line  around  the  town  of 
Boston ;  and  numerous  entrenchments  may  still  be  traced 
out  on  most  of  the  hills  in  the  vicinity ;  but  it  was  not  till 
Gen.  Washington  succeeded  in  occupying  Dorchester 
Heights,  which  command  the  harbour  and  town  from  the 
south-east,  that  the  British  forces  embarked  in  their  ships, 
and  evacuated  the  place. 

Dorchester  Heights  were  occupied  on  the  night  of 
March  4, 1776.  Eight  hundred  men  formed  the  van ;  then 
followed  carriages,  and  1200  pioneers  under  Gen.  Tho- 
mas, 300  carts  of  fascines  and  gabions,  and  guns  in  the 
rear.  Two  forts  were  formed  by  10  at  night,  one  towards 
the  city,  and  the  other  towards  Castle  Island.  Prepara- 
tions were  made  for  an  attack  by  the  British,  and  for  de- 
fence by  the  Americans ;  but  the  weather  prevented  the 
designs  of  the  former,  who  consisted  of  10,000,  and  they 
embarked  for  New- York.  The  town  was  pillaged,  and 
1500  loyalists  removed.  It  was  evacuated  and  possessed, 
March  17,  ammunition,  &c.  being  left  by  the  British. 

Bridges.  Some  of  the  most  striking  objects  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Boston,  are  the  bridges  which  lead  from 
it  to  various  points.  There  are  no  less  than  five  principal 
ones,  beside  several  branches*  The  expense  at  which 
they  have  been  constructed  and  are  kept  in  repair,  is 
very  great,  and  they  furnish  great  facilities  for  strangers 
desirous  of  making  excursions  to  the  surrounding  country. 

Villages.  The  vicinity  of  Boston  presents  a  succes- 
sion of  villages,  probably  not  to  be  paralleled  for  beauty 
in  the  United  States.  They  are  generally  the  residence  of  j» 


290 


THE  NORTHERN 


number  of  the  most  opulent  citizens,  during  the  pleasant 
seasons,  and  many  of  the  buildings  are  fine  and  expen- 
sive. The  grounds  are  also  frequently  laid  out  with  great 
taste,  and  highly  cultivated  ;  so  that  no  stranger,  tvho  has 
leisure,  should  fail  to  take  a  circuit  through  them,  at  least 
for  a  few  miles. 

NAHANT, 

14  miles.  This  is  a  very  pleasant  and  fashionable 
resort,  during  the  warm  months :  being  a  fine  situation, 
open  to  the  sea,  of  easy  access  by  land  or  water,  and 
furnished  with  several  bouses  for  the  accommodation  of 
visiters,  particularly  the  large  hotel.  A  steam  boat  runs 
thither  in  the  summer,  and  there  is  a  fine  road  which 
passes  round  the  bay  through  the  shoe-making  town 
of  Lynn,  along  Lynn  beach,  and  then  turns  off  to  the 
promontory  of  Nahant,  which  is  a  point  of  rough  rocks 
of  considerable  elevation.  You  may  cross  Charlestown 
bridge,  and  visit  Bunker's  Hill  at  setting  out. 

The  passage  in  the  steam  boat  affords  a  fine  view  of 
Boston  bay,  with  the  city  ;  Dorchester  Heights  on  the 
south.  Bunker,  and  Breed's  Hill  on  the  north-west,  and 
many  other  interesting  objects.  Among  the  isKnds  which 
form  the  defence  of  the  harbour,  is  that  which  contains 
Castle  Williams,  and  one  or  two  other  fortified  ones ; 
Rainsford  Island  with  the  Marine  Hospital,  part  of  it  quite 
elevated,  but  containing  only  a  few  acres.  Salt  is  made 
in  Boston  Bay,  and  wind  mills  are  sometimes  used  to 
pump  the  water. 

The  ground  near  the  hotel  at  Nahant,  has  been  laid  out 
and  ornamented  with  as  much  taste  as  the  exposure  of  the 
situation  will  permit.  The  cupola  on  the  top  commands 
a  fine  water  scene  ;  and,  durins:  u  strong  wind  from  the 
sea,  the  waves  are  high  and  magnificent,  breaking  \vM\y 
against  the  rocks.  There  is  a  very  ornamental  little 
building,  in  the  Grecian  style,  which  contains  billiard 
rooms. 

The  Baths  are  at  a  little  distance  from  the  hotel,  and 
qitite  commodious,  furnishing  one  of  the  chief  attractions 
of  il.^  place. 

The  Syren's  Grotto  is  a  remarkable  cavity  in  the 
{'ocks,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  hotel,  which. 


has  been  ( 
several  oti 
course  of 
The  rude  : 
arained  at 
scenes,  sh 
the  wind  i: 


Coaches 
made  betwi 
ting  out  for 
New-York. 
In  the  fir 
may  be  tak( 
Springs,  or 
route  of  C( 
more  direct 
Concord,  PI 
nover ;  or  C 
to  Chariest! 
veiled,  as  it 
and  the  Spr 
ing  places. 
Springs,  thr 
borough,  Bl 
New  Leban 
different  rou 
to  recomme 
objects  in  vi 
posal.    To  ( 
once  more, 
at  once  a  s( 
intelligence, 
country,  of 
respondent  s 
is  rich  and  \ 
is  seen  ;  but 
in  the  Whit* 
iianced  by  tl 
<lie  most  be? 


TltAVELLEK. 


391 


has  been  curiously  worn  out  by  the  waves  ;  and  there  arc 
several  other  caverns  of  similar  character,  produced  in  the 
course  of  ages,  by  the  constant  attrition  of  the  water. 
The  rude  shores  and  the  smooth  beach  can  be  beat  ex* 
arained  at  low  tide  ;  but  those  who  are  fond  of  sublime 
scenes,  should  omit  no  opportunity  to  visit  them  when 
the  wind  is  high,  particularly  in  a  moonlight  night. 

Routes  prom  Boston. 

Coaches  go  in  so  many  directions,  that  a  choice  may  be 
made  between  a  great  many,  all  of  them  pleasant ;  in  aet^ 
ting  out  for  a  tour  to  the  westward,  or  towards  the  city  of 
New-York. 

In  the  first  place,  the  noble  scenery  of  the  White  Hilts 
may  be  taken  in  the  way  to  Lake  Cbamplain,  Canada,  the 
Springs,  or  Niagara ;  or  in  making  the  more  circumscribed 
route  of  Connecticut  River.  Next,  those  who  choose  a 
more  direct  way,  may  avail  themselves  of  the  road  through 
Concord,  Plymouth,  and  Haverhill ;  or  Concord  and  Ha- 
nover ;  or  Concord,  Keene,  and  Windsor ;  or  its  branches 
to  Charlestown  or  Walpole.  The  last  is  now  much  tra- 
velled, as  it  is  one  of  the  shortest  routes  between  Boston 
and  the  Springs,  and  leads  through  a  number  of  interest- 
ing places.  Beside  these,  are  the  roads  to  Albany  or  the 
Springs,  through  the  following  different  places  :  Brattle- 
borough,  Bioody  Brook,  Greenfield,  Northampton,  (and 
New  Lebanon  ;)  Springfield  and  Hartford.  Of  these 
different  routes,  it  is  difficult  to  make  choice  of  any  one 
to  recommend  in  general.  Many  may  have  particular 
objects  in  view,  and  some  will  have  less  time  at  their  dis- 
posal. To  strangers,  however,  it  will  be  proper  to  remark 
once  more,  that  the  route  of  Connecticut  River  presents 
at  once  a  scene  of  fertility,  population,  good  habits,  and 
intelligence,  on  the  whole,  superior  to  any  other  tract  of 
country,  of  equal  extent,  in  the  United  States  ;  with  cor- 
respondent accommodations  for  travellers.  The  scenery 
is  rich  and  varying,  and  cannot  fail  to  please,  wherevev  it 
is  seen  ;  but  those  who  can  first  pass  through  the  Notch 
in  the  White  Mountains,  will  find  its  beauties  greatly  en- 
hanced by  the  contrast.  At  Uadley  and  Northampton,  is 
til?  most  beautiful  part  of  ihe  whole  river  ;  and  for  the 


^292 


THE  NORTHEUN 


other  routes,  we  can  only  refer  to  the  Index  for  the  flea^ 
criptions  of  the  principal  towns  through  which  they  pass. 

East  of  Boston,  the  country  is  of  a  different,  and  ton 
often  of  a  contrary  character,  presenting  few  objects  of 
importance,  except  the  sea  ports  through  which  the  road 
passes. 

For  the  Steam  Boats  to  Maine  and  ^eW'Bnmsioicky  Sec 
Index. 

The  Road  to  Portland  and  through  the  most  popu- 
lous part  of  the  state  of  Maine  will  be  given  ;  but  being 
of  less  interest  to  most  travellers  from  this  city,  will  he 
placed  at  the  end  of  ihe  volume,  while  we  turn  our  at* 
tention  to  the  principal  routes  leading  west  and  north 
from  Boston. 


I  .' 


\>f 


To  Albany  through  Worcester,  Northampton,  and 

Lebanon  Springs. 

Watertown,  like  almost  all  the  villages  in  the  vicinity 
of  Boston,  presents  many  neat  country  seats,  and  an  as- 
pect of  rural  beauty  and  fertility. 

Framingham.  Here  is  a  large  and  well  kept  hotel, 
where  the  stage  coaches  stop,  and  is  a  place  of  great 
resort. 

Worcester.     (See  page  2i7.) 

Leicester. 

Spencer. 

Brookfield.  This  was  one  of  the  towns  earliest  settled 
in  this  part  of  the  country,  dating  so  far  before  Philip's 
War.  The  land  was  sold  by  the  Indians  to  Thomas 
Cooper,  for  the  settlers,  Nov.  10,  1665;  and  for  several 
years  the  only  towns  on  the  west  were  Hadley,  Northamp- 
ton, &c.  while  there  was  no  white  settlement  between  it 
and  Canada.  The  stage  coach  passes  over  a  long  hill  in 
West  Brookfield,  which  commands  an  extensive  prospect; 
and  this  was  the  place  where  the  settlement  began.  A 
few  yards  west  of  a  white  house  on  the  north  side  of  the 
road,  was  a  house  built  for  defence,  and  though  of  little 
strength  was  called  the  Fort.  In  August,  1675,  when  the 
Indians  had  first  begun  to  be  troublesome  in  the  south  of 
New-England,  this  place  was  suddenly  bc^et  by  severa' 


1  ■, 


TKAVULLLU. 


^293 


0  ile!!« 
'  pass, 
lid  too 
jcts  of 
e  road 

ife,  Sec 


liundreU  savages.  T'he  inhabitants  had  been  imposed 
upon  by  the  appearance  of  friendliness  shown  by  the  Has- 
senemesit  Indians,  and  on  their  way  to  their  fftttf  a  few 
miles  distant,  were  ambushed  and  pursued,  so  that  they 
barely  escaped.  The  house  in  which  they  all  assembled, 
was  besieged,  and  was  several  times  in  imminent  danger. 
On  one  occasion  a  cart  loaded  with  hemp,  &c.  and  set  on 
fire,  was  pushed  up  to  the  house  with  long  poles,  when  a 
sudden  shower  came  up,  in  time  to  extinguish  the  flames. 
The  fortunate  arrival  of  Capt.  Moseley,  with  a  small  troop 
of  horsemen,  delivered  the  inhabitants,  and  drove  away 
the  savages ;  but  it  is  melancholy  to  reflect,  that  the  Ge- 
neral Court  thought  proper  to  censure  that  gallant  officer, 
for  neglecting  their  orders,  although  he  had  been  diverted 
only  by  the  distress  of  Brookfield.  All  the  houses  having 
been  burnt,  and  the  war  soon  beginning  to  rage  with 
violence,  the  settlement  was  evacuated. 

The  old  well  still  remains  which  belonged  to  the  fort, 
or  block  house  ;  and  there  is  a  rock  in  a  wall,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  road,  from  behind  which  an  Indian 
shot  one  of  the  men,  who  came  out  to  draw  water  during 
the  siege. 

The  present  village  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  and  is 
pleasantly  situated,  with  several  ponds  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, which,  with  the  fish  and  fowl  they  furnished,  were 
the  principal  attraction  of  the  savages,  who  ivere  very 
numerous  in  this  tract  of  country.  These  ponds  give  rise 
to  the  Qurbaug  River,  which,  after  a  course  of  some  miles, 
takes  the  name  of  Chicopce,  and  joins  the  Connecticut  at 
Springfield.  This  is  the  stream  which  it  is  intended  to 
connect  with  Boston  Bay  by  a  canal,  and  also  by  another 
with  the  Thames  at  Norwich,  in  Connecticut, 

Four  miles  west  of  Brookfield  you  reach  a  height  of 
'and,  which  affords  a  varied  and  extensive  view,  with  a 
.accession  of  hilly  country  immediately  around  you. 


Ware  Factory  Village 


V  ppveva 


is  situated  in  a  little  valley,  with  an  excellent  inn.  The 
rocks  and  woods  gave  an  air  of  wildness  to  the  water  fall? 
in  their  natural  state,  and  the  place  is  now  quite  pic' 

1)d 


294 


THF.  NORTHERN 


turesque,  when  a  rustic  cottage,  the  residence  of  the 
agenti  is  taken  into  view. 

Four  years  since  there  wore  only  five  buildings  ;  and 
now  there  are,  a  cotton  factory,  containing  2,000  spin- 
dies,  and  56  looms ;  another  nearly  finished,  to  contain 
4,500  spindles,  and  150  looms  ;  a  third,  of  the  size  of  the 
latter,  commenced ;  a  flannel  manufactory,  in  which  are 
made  15  pieces  per  week;  fifteen  edifices  used  as  store, 
dye,  wool  houses,  machine,  blacksmiths',  cabinet  makers^ 
and  various  other  shops  ;  grist  and  saw  mills,  a  furnace, 
thirty  dwelling  houses ;  and  other  buildings  erecting,  ma- 
king  the  whole  number  of  structures  fifty-eight. 

Belchertown,  9  miles. 

Amherst,  7  miles.  The  shortest  road  to  Northampton 
does  not  pass  the  College, 

Hadlet,  5  miles.  > 


TRAVELLER. 


295 


TOUR  TO  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

From  Boston, 

The  first  day's  journey  is  to  Concord  or  Dover,  both  ia 
Netv-Hampshire.    The  former  route  is  recommended. 

There  are  three  roads  to  Concord,  on  all  which  there 
are  stage  coaches.  (See  **  Roads,"  at  the  end  of  the  vo- 
lume.) 

The  first  is  through  Cambridge,  (where  is  Harvard  Uht- 
versity,)  and  Lexington. 

The  se  jond  is  through  Charlestown,  and  joins  the  other 
on  the  Merrimack. 

The  third  is  through  Andovtr  and  HaverhiU,  (Mass.) 

The  distance  is  from  68  to  70  miles,  and  the  fare  $3,50. 

Besides  these  there  is  a  boat  on  the  Middlesex  Canal, 
which  leaves  the  upper  locks  in  Charlestown,  (2  miles  firom 
Boston,)  three  times  a  week,  and  goes  to  ChelL^sford  in 
about  9  hours :  28  miles,  passage  75  cents.  This  mode  is 
not  particularly  recommended. 

Stsveral  places  on  these  roads  will  be  particularized. 

Lexington 

is  remarkable  as  the  place  where  the  first  blood  was  shed 
in  the  revolutionary  war.  On  the  19th  of  April,  1776, 
Gen.  Gage  sent  a  body  of  troops  from  Boston,  to  seize  a 
powder  house  at  Concorde  belonging  to  the  colony  ;  and 
the  inhabitants  were  warned  of  his  design,  by  an  ex- 
press despatched  by  the  Hon.  Joseph  Warren.  The 
militia  were  called  out,  but,  the  alarm  subsiding,  they 
were  dismissed,  with  orders,  however,  to  hold  themselves 
in  readiness.  The  enemy  unexpectedly  made  their  appear- 
ance at  half  past  4,  coming  on  at  quick  step,  within  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  of  the  church.  The  alarm  guns  were  fired, 
drums  beat,  and  50  or  60  militiamen  assembled  on  the  pa- 
rade. The  British  brigade  halted  about  120  yards  from  the 
church  to  load,  and  then  passing  the  east  end  of  the  building, 
discovered  the.  Americans,  who  were  ordered  at  the  mo< 
inent,  by  their  commander,  Capt.  Parker,  to  "disperse,  and 
fake  care  of  themse!vesj*'but  "not  to  fire."  As  some  ofthw^A 


296 


THE  NORTHKUN 


loitered,  the  British  troops  rushed  towards  them,  hu/z^u- 
ing.  Major  Pitcairn  fired  a  pistol  at  them,  when  about 
30  yards  distant,  after  they  had  been  called  "  rebels,"  and 
ordered  to  lay  down  their  arms  and  disperse.  Another 
officer,  who  was  witbin  a  few  yards  of  them,  then  bran- 
dished his  sword  and  ordered  the  troops  to  "  fire,"  which 
was  obeyed  at  the  second  order ;  and  the  fire  being  re- 
turned, was  kept  up  on  the  dispersing  men  until  they 
bad  all  disappeared.  Eight  were  killed  and  ten  wounded. 
(Gen.  Gage  falsely  stated  that  the  British  were  first  fired 
upon.) 

After  the  regulars  had  fired  a  volley,  from  the  green  be- 
hind the  church,  and  given  three  cheers,  they  proceedecf 
to  Concord.  On  their  return,  being  hard  pressed  y^ 
sharp  shooters,  they  burnt  three  houses,  a  shop,  and  u 
lami  killed  three  more  men  and  wounded  one. 

Andover 

is  a  amall  village,  situated  on  high  ground,  20  miles  from 
Boston,  remarkable  for  the  Philips  Academy  and  Theolo^ 
giciU  Seminaryt  which  are  three-fourths  of  a  mile  e^st 
from  it,  on  the  summit  of  the  ascent.  There  are  three 
large  brick  buildings,  belonging  to  the  Seminary,  which 
make  a  conspicuous  figure  from  different  parts  of  the  sur* 
roundine  country,  and  command  a  view  of  great  extent, 
bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Temple  Hills  in  N.Hampshire, 
backed  by  the  Mon&dnoc,  about  60  miles  ofi*;  and  in  the 
south  by  the  Blue  Hills.  A  little  elevation  near  by  afibrds 
a  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  about  Newburyport  to 
Cape  Ann,  with  part  of  Salem  ;  and  north-west  is  a  dis- 
tant 7eak,  which  is  supposed  to  be  Ascutney,  in  Vermont. 
The  academical  buildings  are  distinguished  by  the  names 
of  Philips  H»!l,  Bartlett  Hall,  and  the  Chapel.  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  latter  is  a  library  of  5  or  6000  volumes. 
The  Professors'  houses  are  opposite,  with  a  spacious 
^Vr^en  intervening  between  the  Seminary  and  the  street ; 
and  there  is  also  a  large  inn.  The  Academy  and  Semina- 
ry are  not  connected,  although  they  are  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  same  board.  The  term  of  instruction 
in  the  latter  ombraceM  three  years. 


'%^'?'ife' 


TKAVELLEK. 


297 


Haverhill 

is  a  small  town,  but  pleasantly  situated,  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  Merrimac,  the  shores  of  which,  for  some  distance 
below,  present  a  beautiful  and  fertile  slope  to  the  water. 
A  bridge  crosses  the  river,  with  a  roof  to  protect  it  from 
the  weather. 

Chelmsford 

is  one  of  the  principal  manufacturing  places  in  the  United 
States.  The  Merrimac  Company  for  Printing  Cotton 
Goods  are  building  large  manufactories.  They  are  all  to 
be  of  an  equal  size,  like  those  already  in  operation,  con- 
taining 3613  spindles  each,  with  the  machinery  for  pre- 
paring the  cotton,  and  also  for  weaving  and  dressing  the 
cloth.  There  is  a  large  foundery  near  by,  and  two  manu- 
factories are  to  be  built  every  season.  About  2408  yards 
of  cloth  will  be  made  every  day,  in  each  of  the  buildings. 
More  than  700  dozen  of  scytfches  were  made  at  Farweirs 
manufactory  in  this  town,  in  1825. 

Nashua  Village, 

in  Dunstable,  33  miles  from  Concord.  The  fall  in  the 
Nashua  River  is  65  feet,  and  the  power  equal  to  about 
65,000  spindles.  Here  are  soi»e  astonishing  improvements. 
In  1825  there  were  two  great  manufactories,  each  155  feet 
by  48,  one  for  cotton  and  the  other  for  woollen,  with  a 
dye  house  150  by  48,  a  wood  house  and  machine  shop 
250  by  30,  &c-  The  buildings  for  the  work  people  form 
small  and  regular  villages. 

Dover. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the  state,  and  con- 
tains several  manufactories,  although  the  supply  of  water 
is  by  no  means  abundant  at  all  seasons.  In  crossing  the 
bridge  there  are  seen  three  large  manufactories,  each  about 
200  feet  in  length  ;  and  the  foundation  of  a  fourth  was 
laid  in    ''95,  although  the  contracted  space  afforded  on 

Dd.2 


'">*^s^^' 


298 


THE  NORTHERN 


the  banks  required  the  blasting  out  of  a  great  quantity  of 
rock  for  the  foundation  and  sluiceways. 

CONCORD 

is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire,  and  a  very  fine  and 
flourishing  town.  It  is  much  the  largest  the  traveller  will 
see  before  reaching  the  White  Mountains,  and  for  a  great 
distance  beyond  them. 

Inms.  The  two  principal  stage  houses,  just  south  of  the 
state  house,  are  large  and  commodious — that  next  the 
state  house  particularly  recomtiiended.  There  are  seve- 
ral others  above  and  below,  though  of  much  inferior  pre- 
tensions. 

The  town  is  situated  principally  on  one  street,  which  is 
of  a  great  length  and  very  convenient  breadth,  with  many 
respectable  houses ;  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Merrimac, 
which  is  at  only  a  short  distance  on  the  east. 

The  State  House 

occupies  a  conspicuous  situation  near  the  middle  of  the 
town,  a  little  removed  from  the  street,  and  s|urrounded  by 
a  handsome  stone  wall,  enclosing  an  area.  It  is  built  of 
hewn  granite  from  the  quarry,  and  is  a  neat  edifice,  100 
feet  long,  with  a  large  hall  on  the  first  floor,  and  on  the 
second  the  Senate  and  Representatives'  Chambers,  with 
the  committee  rooms,  state  offices,  &c.  &c.  The  view 
from  the  top  is  extensive,  but  embraces  a  tract  of  country 
too  little  cultivated  to  be  rich,  and  too  unvaried  to  be 
picturesque.  At  the  northward  are  seen  two  or  three  dis- 
tinct peaks,  which  may  serve  as  an  earnest  of  the  magni- 
ficent scenery  to  be  presented  to  the  traveller  in  that  di- 
rection. 


The  State  Prison 

is  built  at  a  short  distance  from  the  State  House,  and  bears 
a  still  greater  appearance  of  solidity  and  strength. 

There  is  an  Academy  in  Concord,  with  several  churches. 
No  less  than  four  newspapers  are  printed  here,  and  ga- 
zettes from  distant  places  may  be  found  at  the  inns.  Far- 


TKAVELLEK. 


sidii 


mer  &  Moore's  Gazetteer  of  New-Hampsbire  is  the  best 
companion  for  a  traveller  in  tbis  state. 

From  wbat  may  have  been  observed  of  the  granite 
rocks  along  the  road,  the  stranger  must  have  admired 
their  superior  quality,  and  the  freedom   and  precision 
of  their  fracture,  wherever  the  wedge  is  judiciously  ap- 
plied.    The  fine  blocks  broken  out  of  the  old  boulders, 
for  the  post*  of  fences,  as  well  as  for  steps,  mill  stones, 
&c.  must  have  shown  the  excellence  of  the  granite  of  this 
part  of  the  country.     The  same  characteristics,  in  great- 
er or  less  degrees,  will  be  found  to  attend  the  whole  of  the 
granite  range  of  the  White  Mountains,  till  its  last  ap- 
pearance about  Bath,  on  Connecticut  Kiver.    It  is  un- 
common, in  this  part  of  the  coun;ry,  to  find  a  single  rock 
formation  extending  such  a  distance  without  any  interrup- 
tion.    To  what  di&rent  dates  geologists  may  hereafter 
refer  the  coarsest  varieties  on  Mount  Washington,  the 
disintegrating  rocks  of  Red  Mountain,  the  boulders  of 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  interspersed  with  their  crystals  of 
iieldspar  three  or  four  inches  in  length,  and  the  white, 
iine<grained  granite  of  Concord  and  Chelmsford,  it  is  not 
for  the  hasty  traveller  to  inquire.    Doubtless  many  in- 
teresting facts  will  be  elucidated,  when  scientific  men 
shall  devote  their  researches  to  the  subject,  and  trace  the 
boulders  along  the  Ammonoosuc  and  Winnipiseogee  Lake, 
to  the  rocks  and  mountains  from  which  some  long  past 
convulsion  has  torn  them  away. 

The  MIbrrimac  River  has  been  rendered  navigable, 
by  various  improvements,  from  Concord  to  Chelmsford, 
where  the  Middlesex  Canal  opens  a  communication  di- 
rectly to  Boston,  28  miles.  In  1825  a  plan  was  formed 
for  extending  the  improvements,  and  to  render  the  river 
navigable  to  Ntrwburyport,  on  the  coast,  by  making  a  canal 
round  the  falls,  near  Haverhill.  The  expense  was  esti- 
mated at  $200,000,  and  it  is  believed  that  the  sale  of  wa- 
ter privileges  would  repay  a  large  part  of  the  sum. 

A  direct  water  communication  is  kept  up  between  this 
river  and  Boston,  through  the  Middlesex  Canal,  by  means 
of  boats,  which  carry  merchandise  down  for  ^5  a  ton,  and 
bring  it  up  for  $7. 


300 


THE  NORTHEUN 


Roads. 

Several  lines  of  stage  coaches  meet  in  this  town  three 
times  a  week.  Three  go  to  Boston,  one  to  Portsmouth, 
one  to  riymouth,  one  to  Haverhill,  and  one  to  Burling- 
ton, by  the  way  of  Windsor.  Another  line  has  been  es- 
tablished between  this  place  and  Conway^  on  the  road  to 
the  ^otch  in  the  J^Iountains. 

[From  Plymouth  a  stage  wagon  goes  through  Franconia 
Notch  to  Littleton.  The  road  follows  the  Pemigewasset, 
through  fine,  magnificent  scenery.  The  country,  how- 
ever, is  almost  uninhabited  until  reaching  Franconia, 
where  are  iron  works,  and  a  curious  profile  on  a  moun- 
tain, called  the  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain.  There  ia  an 
excellent  inn  at  Littleton :  the  new  brick  one.  The  place 
is  about  40  miles  from  Plymouth.] 

[Two  routes  have  been  proposed  for  connecting  the 
Merrimac  and  Connecticut:  1st,  by  Baker^s  River  to 
Wentworth ;  and  2d,  by  way  of  Sunapee  Lake,  81 0  feet 
above  the  Connecticut^  and  858  above  the  Merrimac  at 
Concord.] 

There  is  a  road  on  each  side  of  the  lake  towards  Con- 
tvay,  but  that  on  the  west  is  recommended.  At  all  events 
the  traveller  should  spend  a  day  at  Centre  Harbour,  to 
which  the  road  is  pleasant  and  the  country  agreeable,  al- 
though there  are  but  few  villages  on  the  way. 

For  some  miles  before  reaching  that  place,  the  country 
begins  to  assume  the  features  of  bold  and  mountain 
scenery.  Even  before  arriving  at  the  lake,  the  prospect 
is  varied  with  many  of  those  noble  elevations  which  rise 
to  such  a  height  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  as  the  traveller 
proceeds  ;  and  the  frequent  glimpses  nfTurded  between  the 
sloping  hills,  over  the  beautiful  lake  below,  by  a  happy 
contrast  increase  the  effect. 


WINNIPISEOGEE  LAKE. 

The  number  and  diversity  of  the  islands  with  which  the 
lake  is  spangled,  will  be  objects  ot  particular  admiration. 
They  are  countless  for  multitude,  and  in  size  present  all 


(lie  grada 
dent  for  s 


There  a 
ler  may  fii 
amply  rew 
least  a  day 


This  emj 
is  accessibli 
or  on  horse 
account  of 
deed  the  pai 
reaching  the 
trian  will  pi 
fore  turning 
his  course  t 
quarters  of 
a  fence  are  \ 
must  turn  U 
mit. 

An  early 

improved  by 

ml  accounts 

The  follov 

the  spot,  an( 


J^orthy  th< 
pond  lying 
Mountains  b 
numerous  dai 
liases,  and 
summits,  wh 
heyond  these 
lie  mistaken 


TUAVELLER. 


301 


(lie  gradations  between  a  single  rock  and  a  surface  suffi- 
cient for  several  extensive  farms. 

Centre  MAiiBouti. 

There  are  two  inns  here,  at  either  of  which  the  travel- 
ler may  find  himself  comfortable,  and  where  he  will  be 
amply  rewarded,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  by  stopping  at 
least  a  day  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  top  of 

Red  Mountain. 

This  eminence  may  be  about  1500  feet  in  height,  and 
is  accessible  for  about  two*  thirds  of  the  way  in  a  carriage 
or  on  horseback,  though  not  without  some  difficulty,  on 
account  of  the  steepness  and  roughness  of  the  road.  In- 
deed the  path  is  very  rocky  for  half  a  mile  or  more  before 
reaching  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  the  hardy  pedes- 
trian will  prefer  to  leave  his  horse  at  the  main  road,  be- 
fore turning  off  by  the  mill.  The  traveller  should  direct 
bis  course  towards  a  little  notch  he  will  see  about  three- 
quarters  of  the  distance  up,  where  a  cultivated  field  and 
a  fence  are  vittible.  From  the  house  situated  there,  he 
must  turn  towards  the  left,  and  follow  a  path  to  the  sum- 
mit. 

An  early  visit  is  recommended,  as  the  scene  is  much 
improved  by  an  oblique  light,  and  the  morning  is  on  seve- 
ral accounts  to  be  preferred. 

The  following  sketch  of  the  scene  was  noted  down  on 
the  spot,  and  may  be  taken  as  generally  correct. 


View  from  Red  Mountain. 

AbrfA,  the  eastern  end  of  Squam  Lake,  and  part  of  a 
pond  lying  near  it,  with  the  range  of  the  Sandwich 
Mountains  behind,  stretching  off*  towards  the  east,  with 
numerous  dark  brown  peaks,  partly  cultivated  about  their 
bases,  and  enveloped  above  with  forests,  excepting  their 
summits,  which  are  generally  divested  of  verdure.  Far 
beyond  these  appear  several  loftier  peaks,  which  might 
be  mistaken  for  the  White  Mountains,  were  they  visible 


fSm 


'^ 


0> 


/ 


\^ 


.^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


i^SIM    |2.5 

140    IIUI2.0 


12.2 


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302 


THE  NORTHERN 


from  this  point.    An  intermediate  peak  with  rocky  preci- 
pices may  be  White-faced  Mountain, 

East'^ortk'East.  Tlie  eye  ranges  up  the  spacious  val- 
ley through  which  lies  the  way  to  the  White  Mountains ; 
and  the  road  which  is  to  conduct  the  traveller  seems  di- 
minished to  the  dimensions  of  a  garden  walk.  Chocaway, 
or,  aa  it  is  familiarly  railed,  Corrowiiy  Peak,  rises  on  the 
left ;  while  the  noble  ridge  of  the  Ossipee  Mountains  be- 
gins nearer  at  hand  on  the  right,  and  almost  overshadows 
the  observer  with  its  enormous  size.  The  sides  of  these 
mountains  show  a  beautiful  display  of  farms,  interspersed 
with  wdod  lots  and  dwellings,  which  in  many  places  have 
encroached  far  towards  the  summits,  and  in  others  pur- 
sue the  slope  of  the  fertile  uplands  to  the  valley  at  their 
feet  Numerous  elevations  appear  at  a  greater  distance, 
and  range  thcmHclves  in  lines  to  complete  the  perspective 
of  a  most  magnificent  vista,  which  finally  closes  at  a  ridge, 
whose  shade  is  reduced  by  its  remoteness  to  the  colour  of 
a  cloud.  A  prominent  and  remarkable  mountain,  which 
appears  scarcely  less  distant,  is  called  Pickwaket  Moun- 
tain, and  rises  by  the  Saco  River,  near  the  place  where 
Captain  Lovell  fought  his  well-known  battle  with  the  In- 
dians ;  and  the  fine  valley  between  is  the  country  passed 
over  in  that  fatal  expedition,  both  in  the  approach  and  the 
retreat. 

(   East.     The  view  abuts  upon  the  Ossipee  Mountains, 
and  no  variety  is  afforded  till  we  turn  to  the 

South- South-East.  In  that  dirction,  and  farther  to  the 
right,  the  whole  surface  of  WinnipiseogeeLake  lies  charm- 
ingly spread  out  to  view,  varied  by  numerous  points  and 
headlands,  and  interspersed  with  beautiful  islands  which 
man  despairs  to  number.  Several  distant  elevations  ap- 
pear, on  this  side  of  which  the  sloping  land  just  mention- 
ed extends  for  several  miles  along  the  shore,  with  a  well- 
cultivated  surface  spotted  in  all  directions  with  large 
barns  and  farm  houses,  to  the  very  margin  of  the  lake. 
There  numerous  points  run  out  far  into  the  water,  to 
complete  the  labyrinths  formed  by  the  islands.  Gunstock 
Mountain  rises  one  point  east  of  south,  just  on  the  left  of 
which  opens  the  entrance  to  Merry-meeting  Bay.  The 
elevated  island  on  the  right  of  that  is  Rattlesnake 
Island,  named  from  the  venemous  reptiles  with  which  it 


a^RAVELLER. 


303 


abounds ;  over  this  the  distant  land  appears  high.  South 
by  west  rises  a  high  hill  resembling  the  Ossipee  in  the 
richness  of  its  slopes. 

The  South- West  and  West  is  agreeably  varied  with 
wood  lots  and  cleared  fields,  scattered  over  an  undulated 
surface,  which  extends  for  many  miles,  in  some  places 
quite  to  the  horizon,  and  in  others  to  the  broken  bounda- 
ry of  tall  but  distant  mountains.  In  the  south-west  ap- 
pear two  or  three  peaks,  so  far  removed  that  they  are  al- 
most lost  in  the  blue  of  the  sky.  Nearly  west  are  seen 
several  ridges  of  inferior  magnitude,  which,  approaching 
as  the  eye  slowly  moves  towards  the  left,  at  length  come 
near  the  lake,  and  disappear  behind  the  neighbouring 
mountains. 

Long  Pond  may  be  distinguished  by  its  shining  surface 
between  the  west  and  south,  with  several  other  little  sheets 
of  water  which  lie  in  tranquillity  among  the  shelter  of 
the  hills. 

Winnipiseogee  Lake  is  19  miles  in  length,  {torn  Centre 
Harbour  to  Alton,  at  the  south-eastern  extremity.  Mer- 
ry-meeting Bay  lies  beyond.  Several  of  the  islands  are 
laige,  and  contain  good  farms  and  wealthy  inhabitants, 
although  only  two  or  three  of  them  belong  to  any  town, 
or  pay  any  taxes.  Some  of  their  names  are  Rattlesnake, 
Cow,  Bear,  and  Moon  Island ;  also,  Half  Mile,  One 
Mile,  Two  Mile  Island,  &c.  &c.  None  of  them  contain 
churches  ;  and  although  they  have  no  school  houses,  yet 
sufficient  attention  is  paid  to  the  rudiments  of  education 
to  render  the  children  intelligent.'" 


*  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  according  to  surveys  made  by 
Mr.  Bddwin.in  1825,  is  501  feet  above  the  ocean.  It  has  been 
proposed  to  begin  this  year  a  canal  from  Merry-meeting  River, 
at  tne  south  end,  to  Dover,  a  distance  of  28  miles,  and  to  con- 
tinue the  naviration  throu|h  this  lake,  and  Long,  Square,  and 
Little  SquawXakes,  to  Merrimac  River,  makii^  in  all  a  dis- 
tance of  65  miles.  It  will  be  necessary  to  raise  the  lake  two 
feet  by  a  dam  at  the  outlet,  and  to  cut  to  the  depth  of  about 
17  feet  for  7  miles.  The  estimates  have  been  made  for  a  canal 
of  these  dimensions :  25  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  4  feet  of  water, 
with  stone  locks  12  feet  in  the  clear  and  82  feet  Ions.  It  will 
require  60  locks,  which  will  cost  ^56,500  each,  and  the  cost 


304 


THE  NORTHERN 


S^VAM  Lake 

lies  west  from  Red  Mountain,  and  like  Winnipiseogee 
LaJce,  abounds  not  only  in  islands,  but  in  fish  of  the  finest 
descrq;»tion8.  Fine  trout  are  caught  here  in  great  abun< 
dance,  and  of  a  size  superior  to  those  of  the  other  lake. 
The  trout  of  Winnipiseogee  Lake  vary  from  1  to  4  pounds 
in  weight,  while  those  of  Squam  Lake  are  between  4  and 
10.  They  are  sometimes  caughi  of  nearly  double  that 
size ;  but  that  is  very  uncommon.  The  trout  fishery  is 
chiefly  carried  on  during  the  winter,  when  great  quanti- 
ties are  salted  for  the  Boston  market.  Perch  also  abound 
Tery  much  in  these  waters,  and  are  remarkably  fine. 


Geology. 


\ 


The  sides  of  Red  Mountain  are  covered  with  half  de- 
composed granite.  (On  the  south-eastern  side  of  the  lake 
a  bed  of  porcelain  clay  has  been  discovered,  which  is 
probably  derived  from  a  similar  source.)  The  granite  is 
speckled  with  hornblende  and  black  mica.  No  rocks  to 
be  seen  in  sUu  except  near  the  summit,  where  they  bear  a 
gentle  dip  towards  the  north,  and  are  sightly  tinged  with 
reddish  quartz  and  feldspar. 

The  hue  of  the  shrubbery  in  autumn  has  given  the 
mountain  its  name.  The  summit  is  strewed  with  loose 
fragments ;  and  musquetoes  and  black  flies  often  abound 
there. 

A  few  days  may  be  spent  at  Centre  Harbour  very  agree- 
ably, in  making  shooting  and  fishing  excursions  in  the 
neighbourhood,  or  in  sailing  upon  the  lake,  which  abounds 
in  the  most  interesting  variety  of  scenes.  On  leaving 
this  place  by  water,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles  the 


from  the  lake  to  Dover  is  computed  at  $590,982.  If  con- 
tinued through  the  lakes  to  Merrimac  River,  to  meet  a  canal 
from  Baker's  River,  the  expense  would  be  increased  to  about 
$731,478.  At  that  point,  uie  distance  from  the  Connecticut 
by  Baker's  River,  is  34  miles.  The  facilities  these  works 
would  afford  for  manufacturing  would  be  very  valuable,  but 
the  number  rtf  locks  will  be  a  great  objection. 


TRAVELLER. 


305 


White  Mountains  rite  into  view  above  the  intermediate 
peakff  and  oontinae.  in  sight  quite  across  the  liJce. 

A  fow  dteer  att>  still  found  in  tome  phmet  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, but  being  protected  by  law,  and  still  more  by 
their  scarcity,  are  very  rarely  Udien. 


;♦  »y  I  J 


From  Centre  Harbour  to  Comwat, 
18  miles. 


ij 


Proceeding  north-east  from  Centre  Harbour,  you  enter 
the  Talley  between  the  two  chains  of  mountains  seen  from 
the  top  of  Red  Hill.  The  surface  is  irregular,  and  much 
of  the  land  uncleared  ;  but  settlements  have  extended  far 
up  the  sides  of  some  of  the  mountains,  and  farms  are  oc- 
casionally discovered  quite  at  the  top.  The  features  of 
the  scenery  are  bold  and  striking. 

Eaton  Mbctino  House.  Two  miles  northwardly 
from  this,  Ossipee  Lake  may  be  seen  by  leaving  the  road ; 
but  it  has  nothing  very  interesting  in  its  appearance. 


CONWAT. 

At  Conway,  there  is  a  house  kept  by  Mr.  Abbett,  at  the 
dividing  of  the  roads,  which  is  comfortable,  although 
heretofore  without  a  tavern  si^n.  The  view  of  the  White 
Mountains  is  very  fine  from  this  place,  presenting  a  suc- 
cession of  lofty  ridfi^ea,  the  most  distant  of  which  are  the 
peaks  of  Mounts  JVashir^ton,  *^danu,  Jefferson,  Maditonf 
Moi\roe,  and  Q,uiney,  The  most  prominent  elevation  on 
the  ri^ht,  with  two  summits,  ia  Kearsearge,  or  Pickwa- 
ket :  a  level  meadow  lies  in  the  foreground,  with  an  iso- 
lated, woody  hill  in  the  middle,  and  the  Saco  River,  which 
rises  on  Mount  Washington,  and  flows  down  a  narrow 
valley,  with  many  meanderings. 

The  shortest  road IVom  Conway  to  the  mountains  leads 
directly  to  Bartlett :  but  the  most  travelled  as  well  as  the 
most  agreeable  route  is  by  the  way  of  Fryebui^h,  where 
will  be  seen  the  beautiful  tract  of  level  country  through 
which  meanders  the  Saco  River ;  and  the  great  Pickwaket 
Mountain,  which  rises  from  its  border.  That  was  the 
beautiful  and  favourite  residence  of  the  nation  of  Pick- 

E  e 


SdG 


THE  NORTHERN 


* 


vniktt  Indiani,  and  on  the  bank  of  LoVepB  Pond  was 
fought  a  bloody  battle  between  them  and  a  company  of 
troops  from  Massachasettsy  in  the  year  1785|  just  a  cen- 
tury ago. 

[It  is  probable  that  a  road  will  soon  be  made  round  the 
north  end  of  the  White  Mountains,  through  the  town  of 
Adams,  to  avoid  the  Notch.  The  land  is  leyel  in  that  di- 
rection, along  the  course  of  the  Androscoggin,  and  the 
distance  to  Lancaster  nearly  the  same.  Whenever  it 
shall  be  completed,  it  will  ofier  a  very  agreeable  route  to 
the  traveller,  with  fine  views,  but  not  so  wild  as  those  on 
the  present  route.] 


•  a  k 


,t\'\       I'l' 


The  Chaltbbatb  Spring.  '.*\^t''p 


Turn  off  from  the  road  to  the  west  about  2  miles  north 
of  Abbett's,  ford  the  Saco,  and  enter  a  field,  where  it  is 
found.  A  house  is  kept  in  the  neighbourhood  by  Mrs. 
McMiUan,  which  has  been  lately  overflowing  with  visit- 
ers  during  the  warm  season.  The  country  abounds  in 
scenes  attractive  to  persons  of  taste.  A  little  church  is 
situated  in  a  secluded  and  romantic  valley ;  and  the  place 
is  probably  destined  for  a  fashionable  resort. 

The  place  is  off  the  road,  and  often  missed.  It  is  in  a 
valley,  with  mountains  on  every  side  except  the  south- 
east. From  near  the  church,  the  White  Mountains 
are  in  sight.  Two  or  three  miles  above,  the  Saco 
valley  bends  to  the  left,  and  Ellis's  River  comes  down  a 
narrower  one  in  front.  Up  the  course  of  this  stream 
was  formerly  a  route  by  which  the  highest  peaks  were  as* 
cended.  A  foot  path  leaves  it  in  Adams,  and  goes  on  to 
Shelbume,  &c.    It  is  7  miles  to  Hall's,  in  Bartlett. 


Frtebitrgh. 


'iJ:.i 


The  situation  of  this  place  is  no  less  singular  than  de- 
lightrul ;  and  there  are  some  interesting  circumstances 
connected  with  its  history  which  greatly  enhance  the  ef- 
fect of  the  natural  scenery.  The  township  of  Fryeburgh, 
in  its  extent  of  six  square  miles,  embraces  a  rich  and 
beautiful  valley,  secluded  on  every  side  by  a  wild  and 
mountainous  range  of  country,  as  it  is  almost  surroundcO 


TRAVBLLEB. 


m 


by  spun  of  the  White  Hills,  whose  proiimity  seems  firom 
some  points  of  view  hardly  to  permit  the  passage  of  the 
narrow  stream  of  the  Saco.  The  river,  taking  its  rise  on 
Mount  Washington,  and  flowing  through  the  Notch  in  the 
White  Hills,  passes  down  the  valley  to  Conway,  where  it 
finds  the  termination  of  the  southern  range ;  and  then 
turning  abruptly  to  the  east,  soon  enters  the  charming 
meadows  of  Fryebuigh,  and  performs  a  serpentine  course 
of  no  less  than  36  miles  within  the  limits  of  the  town- 
ship. The  village  is  nent,  and  contains  several  very 
handsome  houses,  with  an  academy,  &c. 

Tbr  Indian  Fort  was  on  a  gentle  hill  at  the  western 
side  of  the  village,  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Saco 
▼alley  six  miles  up  its  course,  and  six  miles  down.  It 
was  the  favourite  resort  of  the  Pickwaket  Indians,  whicb^ 
in  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  committed  depreda* 
tions  and  atrocities  upon  the  frontiers  of  New-Hampshire', 
then  a  part  of  Massachusetts.  The  meadows  here  at  that 
period  abounded  in  game  of  all  sorts  :  for  connected  with 
the  river  are  numerous  ponds  or  lakes,  from  1  to  7  miles 
in  length,  and  some  of  them  8  in  breadth,  which  were 
well  stocked  with  fish  and  water  fowl,  as  the  shores  were 
with  birds  and  beasts,  even  to  the  moose  and  buffiJo.  It 
is  confidently  asserted,  that  the  river,  with  the  ponds  and 
their  outlets,  afforded  a  canoe  navigation  of  100  miles  or 
more  in  eitent,  between  the  entrance  of  the  Sa^o  into 
the  township  and  its  departure,  although  those  two  points 
ere  only  2  miles  apart  The  channel  of  this  river  has 
been  shortened  19  miles  by  cutting  through  a  narrow 
ridge  of  land  during  a  high  flood  about  80  years  ago.  ^  ^.^ 


Lovbl's  Pond 


is  on  the  isthmus,  about  1  mile  south-east  from  the  village, 
and  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  severe 
and  disastrous  battles  in  the  old  partizan  warfare  against 
the  Indians. 

The  Portland  Road  passes  along  the  western  side  of 
the  pond,  and  at  present  aflbrds  a  view  of  it  only  from 
that  part  of  tlie  high  ground  which  is  near  its  north  end. 
This,  however,  was  the  place  of  the  action.    Ailother 


308 


TH£  NOBTHERN 


roftd  niiw  rary  near  the  north  ahore ;  and  it  ia  a  pleaiant 
ride  to  the  place. 

Lotbl'8  Expbditiok. 

In  1725,  Captain  Lovel  waa  indnced  to  undertake  a  ae- 
«fet  expedition  through  the  wildernesa  asainat  the  Piek- 
waket  tribe  of  Indiana,  who,  inatigated  by  the  French, 
had  committed  many  depredationa  on  the  frontier,  ao  that 
the  general  court  of  Maaaachuaetta  had  offisred  100  pounds 
each  for  their  acalpa.  Hia  company  eonaieted  of  30  or  40 
men,  many  of  them  aceuatomed  to  the  life  of  hardy  hunt- 
Ma  and  aettlera,  with  young  Mr.  Frye  for  their  chaplain, 
whoae  hiatory  waa  aomewhat  romantic,  and  from  whom 
thia  town  iecei?ed  ita  name. 

l%ey  naaaed  up  Winnipiaeogee  Lake»  then  to  Oaaipee 
Pond,  where  they  built  a  block  houae,  and  placed  their 
•torea ;  then  follewing  up  the  courae  of  the  Saco,  en- 
camped at  the  Inouth  of  Mill  Brook»  at  the  north-weat 
eovner  of  LofoHa  Poiid,  on  the  night  precedii^  the  bat- 
tle, intending  to  cfoaa  the  iathmua,  (which  ia  reduced 
by  the  pond  to  Uie  breadth  of  11  milea,)  and  faH  upon  the 
Indian  Fort.  It  happened,  however,  that  the  Indiana  had 
gone  down  the  Saco  Biter,  haTingi  aa  ia  conjectured, 
eome  aaapieion  of  a  hoatile  deaign ;  and  on  their  return, 
diacoverin|(  tracka^  puraued  them  towarda  Lovel'a  Pond. 

The  white  men,  without  knowing  the  enemy  were  be- 
ynd  them,  were  a(ttendin|s  morning  prayera,  when  they 
kowd  a  gun  fired  by  a  aolitary  Indian  on  the  oppoaite  aide 
of  the  Fond,  who  had  left  the  fort,  and  waa  ahootiog 
ducka.  They  might  have  marched  on  and  taken  the  fort ; 
but  auj^poaing  tliia  to  be  a  aignal  oi  their  discovery,  they 
went  a  little  way,  and  depositing  their  packs,  aoon  after 
diacovered  the  Indian,  and  mortally  wounded  bim.  He 
bad  two  ducks  in  hia  hand,  and  two  fowling  pieces,  one 
of  which  being  still  loaded,  he  levelled  at  Level,  and  shot 
him.  'uitij-^i 

The  party  now  perceived  that  the  Indian  was  alone, 
and  returned ;  but  the  great  body  of  Indians  having  dis- 
covered the  encampment,  and  the  way  they  had  gone, 
removed  their  packs,  and  forming  an  ambush  around  the 
place,  fired  upon  them  on  their  return,  and  killed  eight 


TUAVELLEK. 


.m 


iiicu.  The  ground  was  an  open  pine  plain,  with  occa- 
sionallj  a  few  shrubs  and  oaks,  much  as  it  is  at  pre- 
sent. The  white  men  retreated.  At  the  north-east  cor^ 
ner  of  the  pond,  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  bounded  by  a 
swamp  on  the  north,  the  mouth  of  Fight  Brook  on  the 
east,  and  the  water  on. the  south :  the  brook  and  swamp 
were  at  that  time  full,  and  impassable.  Here  they  took 
position  behind  scattering  trees,  and  defended  themselves 
till  night.  The  Indians  wounded  a  few,  but  dared  not  come 
upon  the  neck,  only  shooting  from  behind  trees  on  three 
sides  of  them. 

Chamberlain,  a  man  of  great  vigour,  courage,  and  ex- 
perience in  Indian  manners,  took  the  command  after 
the  loss  of  Level ;  and  by  his  exertions,  probably,  saved 
all  who  finally  escaped*  Seeing  that  the  Indians  annoy- 
ed them  from  a  little  rocky  projection  on  the  shore  west 
of  their  position,  he  approached  with  another  among  the 
rocks,  and  drove  them  back.  Afterwards,  while  washing 
bis  gun  on  the  margin,  he  discovered  Paugus,  the  Indian 
chief,  employed  in  the  same  manner  on  the  shore  west  of 
him,  on  the  other  side  of  a  little  bay.  Having  hunted 
together,  they  were  personally  acquainted ;  and  on  a  pro- 
position being  made,  it  was  agreed  to  exchange  shots. 
Both  loaded  as  expeditiously  as  possible ;  but  Chamber- 
Iain,  having  a  gun  with  a  lai^e  priming  hole,  merely 
poured  in  his  powder,  dropped  in  the  ball,  and  knocking 
the  butt  on  the  ground  to  fill  the  pan,  fired  just  as  Pougus 
was  bringing  his  piece  to  his  eye,  and  shot  him  tl  f  cugh. 
The  Indian  sprung  to  a  great  height  from  the  groun"  as 
he  received  the  fatal  ball,  and  his  gun  fired  in  the  air  as 
he  fell  dead  on  the  beach. 

The  Indians  retired  on  the  loss  of  their  chief;  but 
Chamberlain  soon  learnt  from  their  yelling  in  the  woods, 
that  they  were  preparing  another  warrior  to  succeed  him 
in  authority.  Cautiously  approaching  them  through  the 
darkness  of  the  evening,  he  discovered  the  powaws,  or 
priests,  consecrating  the  chief  elect ;  he  shot  him  dead  on 
the  spot,  while  their  hands  were  upon  his  head.  This 
dispersed  the  Indians,  and  the  remains  of  the  unfortunate 
expedition  returned  through  the  forest,  suffering  from 
hunger  and  fatigue,  and  some  of  them  from  wounds.  One 
of  the  first  wounded  escaped  by  getting  into  a  canoe, 

E  e  2 


310 


THE  NOUTHERN 


which  was  driven  across  the  pond  by  a  north  wind ;  but 
a  ftigitive,  who  reached  the  block  bouse  at  Os«ipee 
Lake,  reported  that  the  expedition  had  been  entirely  cut 
off,  so  that  the  garrison  hastily  removed  the  provisions, 
and  thus  increased  the  suiTerings  of  the  survivors. 

In  conformity  with  a  very  commendable  custom  lately 
introduced  into  this  country,  the  centennial  return  of  the 
day  of  this  battle  was  celebrated  at  Fryeburgh  in  1825. 
An  old  man,  who  had  learnt  many  of  the  particulars  from 
some  of  the  members  of  the  expedition,  led  the  inhabit- 
ants and  strangers  assembled  to  the  ground,  and  pointed 
out  the  spots  where  the  circumstances  occurred  which  he 
recounted. 

The  Stage  Coach  from  Conway  to  Portland  passes 
through  Fryeburgh  early  in  the  morning,  one  or  perhaps 
more  days  in  the  week,  and  arrives  at  P.  the  same  even- 
ing, by  Hiram,  Baldwin,  Standish,  and  Gorham. 

The  coach  to  Concord  goes  through  Conway. 

[Paris  is  a  pleasant  and  flourishing  town,  about  35 
miles  east  from  Fryebuigh ;  but  the  roads  and  the  inns  in 
that  part  of  the  country  are  generally  poor.] 

Bartlbtt  is  a  comfortable  village,  situated  in  a  rich 
valley,  or  interval,  of  about  300  acres,  where  the  view  is 
bounded  on  every  side  by  near  and  lofty  mountains.  The 
inn  of  the  place  is  kept  by '  Judge  Hall.'  There  is  another 
interval  among  the  mountains  westward,  which,  although 
it  contains  as  much  good  cleared  land,  has  been  converted 
into  a  common,  in  consequence  of  the  difficulty  of  making 
a  good  road  to  it.  Pursuing  still  the  course  of  the  nar- 
row valley,  against  the  carrent  of  the  Saco,  the  country 
is  found  uncleared,  except  two  or  three  pretty  little  mea- 
dows ;  and  destitute  of  inhabitants,  excepting  only  three 
or  four  poor  families,  until  arriving  at 


'I  a 


Crawford's  Farm, 


seven  and  a  half  miles  south  of  the  Notch.  Here  the 
traveller  will  be  cheerfully  and  comfortably  entertained, 
although  the  house  does  not  wear  the  sign  of  an  inn. 
This  is  the  place  from  which  visiters  formerly  began  their 
excursions  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains :  but  the  best 
place  is  at  Ethan  ^.  Crmtifwrd^s  fimn^  12  miles  beyond. 


XRAV£LL£U. 


311 


Prospect  Mountain,  one  of  the  principal  peaks,  pre- 
sent! itself  to  view  a  little  before  arriving  at  the  tirst 
Crawford's,  with  its  smooth  rounded  summit  of  brown 
moss,  rising  several  hundred  feet  above  the  redon  of  ve- 
getation, and  offering  an  aspect  which  distinguishes  these 
firom  the  other  elevations. 

The  climate  in  this  narrow  valley  is  still  so  warm  as 
to  favour  the  growth  of  various  trees  which  are  scarcely 
to  be  found  a  few  miles  further  north.  The  foresti 
are  here  formed  of  spruee,  ash,  beech,  maple,  sugar  ma- 
ple, &c.  Mr.  Crawford  has  about  100  acres  cleared,  and 
raises  Indian  corn  very  well,  which  will  not  come  to  ma- 
turity beyond.    His  orchard  contains  700  apple  trees. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  stopping  places  for  the 
sleighs,  which  pass  the  mountains  in  great  numbers  du- 
ring the  winter,  for  Portland,  Boston,  &c.  There  are 
sometimes  80  horses  in  the  barn.  i, 


The  Notch  House 


is  situated  in  a  secluded  little  valley,  about  5  miles  north 
of  Crawford's,  and  is  the  only  building  seen  in  a  distance 
of  18  miles.  It  is,  however,  never  inhabited  during  the 
stunmer  season,  though  t^n,  with  its  cheerless  shelter, 
to  all  comers:  in  the  winter  a  family  occupies  it  to  keep 
a  fire,  lodgings,  and  a  little  food,  provided  for  the  travel- 
lers and  wagoners,  who  might  otherwise  perish  for  want 
oi  the  necessaries  of  life. 

The  climate  is  so  cold,  that  the  land  is  not  worth  culti- 
vating; and  although  the  place  has  been  occupied  by 
several  tenants,  no  one  will  keep  the  house  in  repair, 
even  rent  firee.  There  are  no  good  uplands,  the  soil  Ucre 
being  all  gravel ;  and  the  climate  is  sensibly  colder  Uian 
at  the  last  stopping  place. 

The  road  rises  with  a  steep  ascent  for  a  considerable 
dutanee  before  it  reaches  the  Notch,  and  the  traveller 
observes  two  cataracts,  one  pouring  down  a  precipitous 
mountain,  a^  a  distance  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley, 
and  the  other,  which  is  called 


'  w:->*.*"» 


312 


TH£  NORTHERN 


The  Flume, 

rushing  down  on  the  right  hand,  and  crossing  the  road 
under  a  bridse.  The  scenery  is  sublime  and  impressive 
beyond  description. 

'     '  Tub  Notch 

is  so  narrow  as  to  allow  only  room  enough  for  the  path 
and  the  Saco,  which  is  here  a  mere  brook  only  four  feet 
in  breadth.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  Saco  and  the  Am- 
monoosuc  spring  from  fountains  on  Mount  Washington, 
within,  perhaps,  60  yards  of  each  other,  though  the  former 
empties  into  the  Atlantic,  and  the  latter  joins  Connecti- 
cut River.  Another  branch  of  the  Ammonoosud  ap- 
proaches the  Saco  in  one  place,  within  about  600  yards. 
They  are  both  crossed  beyond  the  Notch.  The  head 
waters  of  the  Merrimac  rise  within  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  of  this  place ;  and  run  down  a  long  ravine,  little 
less  remarkable  than  that  of  the  Saco. 

Two  rocks  stand  at  the  sides  of  this  remarkable  passage, 
one  20,  and  the  other  about  30  feet,  in  perpendicular 
height.  They  are  about  20  feet  asunder,  at  6  or  7  yards 
from  the  north  end ;  where  they  open  to  30  feet.  The 
part  which  appears  to  have  been  cut  through  is  about  120 
feet  long.  A  little  meadow  opens  beyond  ;  and  after  a 
ride  of  4}  miles,  the  traveller  reaches  a  comfortable  house, 
just  completed  by  Mr.  E.  A.  Crawford,  where  he  will  be 
received  and  entertained. 

A  road  was  first  made  through  the  Notch  in  1785.  It 
was  50  or  60  feet  higher  than  the  present  turnpike,  and 
80  steep  that  it  was  necessary  to  draw  horses  and  widens 
up  with  ropes.  The  assessment  for  the  turn^^ike  was  made 
in  1806. 


■|: 


Ethan  Crawford^s  House 


is  the  place  where  thqse  who  meditate  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Washington,  will  stop  for  a  day  or  more.  The 
master  of  the  house  will  act  as  a  guide,  and  is  well  quali- 
fied for  the  office,  both  by  his  intimate  acquaintance  with 
the  way,  and  the  various  kind  attentions  and  amusing; 


TRAVELLER,  a 


913 


aoecdotta  with  which  he  knowi  how  to  relioTO  tho  (e- 
diooMOM  of  the  uccot.  The  beit  arrtngement  it  to  eet 
otti  in  the  efteniooii,  epend  the  iiigbt  at  the  weekwam  or 
"  Cmf,**  aaeoDd  the  mountain  early  in  the  morning,  to 
have  the  beneAl  of  the  view  by  tnn  riae,  and  return  to 
Crawford*!  before  the  entning  oTening. 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 

The  aaeent  of  the  mountain  was  formerly  a  most  ardu- 
one  undertaking,  and  was  very  rarely  performed,  though 
three  ladies  have  lately  been  enumerated  among  those 
who  gained  the  summit.    The  whole  way  lies  through  % 
perfect  forest.    A  foot  path  has  been  made  hT  Mr.  Craw- 
iwd,  which,  however,  is  impassable  for  a  horse.    Tho 
Unt  seven  miles  are  over  a  surface  comparatively  level ; 
hat  the  last  two  miles  and  a  quarter  are  up  an  ascent  not 
iiftring  much  from  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 

The  time  to  perform  the  different  parts  of  this  ezcur* 
iioB  may  be  estimated  as  follows : 

hours. 
From  Crawford's  to  the  Camp, ........  6)  m.    S 

Theneo  to  the  summit,  S  miles  and  93  rods,    S  or  2^ 

Returning  from  summit  to  Camp, li 

Thence  to  Crawford's, 2} 

The  streams  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River,  which  are  to 
be  crossed  seven  times,  add  not  a  little  to  ibe  inconvo; 
niences  of  the  journey  ;  but  a  comfortable  bed,  and  a  fire, 
(if  the  weather  be  chill,)  will  be  found  very  welcome  at 

THiCAiir,  i 


6)  miles  from  Crawford's.  Here  provisions  of  different 
kinds  will  be  produced,  and  even  cooked  by  a  cheerful 
fire  ;  and  if  the  travellers  are  sportsmen,  and  the  season 
is  favourable,  a  dish  of  fine  trout  may  soon  be  obtained 
from  the  romantic  little  stream  which  dashes  by  within 
twenty  yards  of  the  encampment*. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  begins  just  at  hand, 
and  the  most  arduous  exertion  will  be  necessary  to  attain 
the  summit,  which  seems  to  fly  before  the  stranger  when 
he  deems  it  just  attained,  and  to  look  down  in  derision 


$14  THE  NORTHERN 

from  a  new  and  more  hopeless  height  The  first  part  of 
the  way  is  through  a  thick  forest  of  heavy  timber,  which 
is  suddenly  succeeded  by  a  girdle  of  dwarf  and  knarled 
fir-trees,  lOor  15  feet  high,  and  80  rods,  or  about  450 yards 
broad  i  which,  ending  as  suddenly  as  they  began,  give 
place  to  a  kind  of  sfejrt  bushes,  and  finally  a  thin  bed  of 
moss,  not  half  sufficient  to  conceal  the  immense  granite 
rocks  which  deform  the  surface*  For  more  than  a  mile, 
the  surface  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees.  A  few  straggling 
spiders,  and  several  species  of  little  flowering  plants  tre 
the  only  olijects  that  attract  the  attention,  under  the  feet. 

The  following  heights  are  stated  to  be  those  of  the  dif- 
ferent peaks,  above  the  level  of  Connecticut  River  at 
Laficantsn  .nmn  arrth  «ti 

Washington, .15,350 

Jefi*erson, ...6,t61 

Adams, 5,383 

Madison,. • 5,03a 

Monroe, 4,932 

Quincy, 4,470 

Mount  Washington  is  believed  to  be  more  than  6400 
feet  above  the  ocean. 

In  a  clear  atmosphere  the  view  is  sublime,  and  almost 
boimdiess.  The  finest  part  of  It  lies  towards  the  toulft- 
ea»t  and  soutlh  Looking  down  the  valley,  through  which 
the  road  has  conducted  us,  a  fine  succession  of  mountain- 
ous summits  appear  for  many  miles  below  the  br^ht  sur- 
fece  of  Winnipiseogee  Lake. 

Towards  the  soutk-eatt  tdso,  the  eye  ranges  over  an  ex- 
tent of  surface,  which  quite  bewilders  the  mind.  Moun- 
tains, hills,  and  valleys,  farm  bouses,  villages,  and  towns, 
add  tiieir  variety  to  tiie  natural  features  of  Uie  countiy ; 
and  the  ocean  may  be  discovered  at  the  horizon  with  the 
help  of  a  telescope,  although  the  sharpest  sight  perhaps 
has  never  been  able  to  distinguish  it  without  such  assist- 
ance. In  that  direction  lies  Portland,  the  capital  of 
Maine ;  and  nearer,  Level's  Pond. 

On  the  norlA-ea»(  is  seen  the  valley  of  the  Androscog- 
gin River,  which  abounds  in  wild  and  romantic  scenery, 
and  was  the  usual  passage  by  which  the  Indians,  in  their 
hostile  incursions  from  Canada,  used  td  approach  the 
eastern  frontier  settlements  of  Massachusetts  and  New- 


V  TRAVELLER.  T 


ail 


Halnpshire.    Beyond,  an  the  Ktvdin  Hills,  near  the  ex- 
tremity oC  Maine* 

JVbvlA,  the  country  is  more  wild  and  nncultiyated ;  and 
Umbsgog  Lake  is,Men,  from  which  flows  the  Androscog- 
gin. 

Westf  the  nearer  Wew  is  OTcr  a  mountainous  r^on, 
eorered  with  a  thick  fonest,  through  which  only  an  occ»> 
sional  opening  is  perceived,  formed  by  the  farms  (or 
clearings)  of  the  hardy  inhabitants.  Beyond,  the  hills 
are  seen  to  rise  from  the  opposite  shore  of  Connecticut 
River,  the  surface  of  which  is  every  where  hidden  f^m 
view,  and  the  summits,  rising  higher  and  higher,  terminate 
in  the  ridges  of  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont 
i    Scuih'Westerly  is  seen  the  Grand  Monadnock. 

The  Indians  knew  the  White  Mountains  by  the  name 
of  Agincocl^ook,  and  regarded  them  as  inaccessible,  or  at 
least  represented  them  so  to  white  men. 


>W.;i'i.'. 


The  Lake  of  the  Clouds 


iiio*,'Pi 


8'  I  a  little  pond,  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Monroe,  of 
eautiful  clear  water ;  and  supplies  the  head  stream  of 
the  Ammonoosuc  River.  This  little  current  immediately 
begins  its  descent,  and  dashes  in  a  headlong  course  of 
several  thousand  feet,  into  the  valTey  near  the  encamp* 


meot. 


'■     4  ■    »'•- 

i-i  ii  ,U  (;-  ^^ 


i«y*;    ^V ;i'''^ A&^^a-J :r i:iA-.'y"'h 


Geology, 


i-" 


Loose  fragments  of  granite  are  every  where  scattered 
over  the  mountain,  with  some  specimens  of  gneiss.  The 
granite  is  generally  gray,  and  at  first  fine  grained,  but 
grows  coarser  as  we  ascend,  and  is  occasionally  sprinkled 
with  small  garnets.  At  the  summit  it  frequently  contains 
a  little  black  tourmaline,  sometimes  in  crossing  crystals. 
On  the  summit  abo,  some  of  the  granite  is  tinged  with 
red,  although  much  of  it  is  coloured  bright  green  by  lich- 
ens, dampened  by  the  humidity  of  the  clouds,  and  inter- 
spersed with  thick  and  soft  gray  moss.  The  grain  of  the 
coarse  granite  is  elongated  ;  and  what  strikes  the  visiter 
as  very  singular,  is,  that  not  a  single  rock  is  to  be  found 
in  its  original'  place — every  thing  bears  the  mark  of  re- 
moval ;  and  this,  taken  into  view  with  the  precipice  on 


31U 


THE  NORTHERN 


the  northern  side,  seems  to  indicate  that  the  summit  of 
the  mountain  has  fallen  down  and  diiappearad. 

(Jbncral  Rbmarks. 

All  tniTellers  of  taste  and  leisure  will  be  deshrous  of 
spending  some  time  among  the  impressife  scenery  of  these 
stupendous  mountains ;  and  as  the  accommodations  fw 
strangers  hecome  enlarged  and  improved,  the  place  cannot 
fiul  to  attract  great  numbers  of  visiters. 

Those  who  take  delight  in  scenes  of  thus  descriptioni 
always  ftel  an  additional  gratification  when  they  can  re- 
flect, that  the  mountains  around  them  are  the  highest, 
and  the  region  the  most  wHd  and  uninhalnted.  In  such 
Teflections  -the  traveller  may  indulge  among  the  <  White 
Hills  :  for  although  the  peaks  of  Ktardin,  and  Bj^kkd 
Mountain,  in  Maine,  have  been,  by  some,  compwed  with 
Mount  Washington ;  it  has  been  done  on  mere  conjec- 
ture, and  with  little  appearance  of  probability.  The  ge- 
neral belief  now  seems  to  be,  that  the  lofty  peak  above 
us  is  the  highest  elevation  in  North  America,  except 
Mexico  ;  although  some  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  but 
little  inferior.  The  inhospitable  nature  of  the  climate  is 
such  as  to  forbid  all  hopes  of  future  improvement ;  so 
that  the  feeling  of  sublimity,  produced  by  the  lonely  and 
desolate  character  of  this  desert  region,  is  increaselyl  by 
the  reflection,  that  it  is  destined  to  be  a  wilderness  for 
ever. 

The  only  places  susceptible  of  cultivation  in  the  heart 
of  the  mountains,  are  the  little  meadows  inhabited  by 
the  Crawfords,  and  that  at  the  **»N*otch  House  ;^  and 
there  the  interval  of  warm  weather  is  so  short  in  the 
year,  that  few  vegetables  can  arrive  at  maturity,  with  all 
the  rapidity  of  growth  which  distinguishes  such  cold 
regions.  Indeed,  the  shortness  and  uncertainty  of  crops, 
with  the  expense  of  keeping  stock,  &c.  would  scarcely 
allow  the  farmer  a  support,  without  the  advantages  afibrd- 
cd  by  the  thoroughfare  which  is  particularly  great  during 
the  winter  season.  Population,  therefore,  may  extend  to 
the  borders  of  these  regions,  and  increase,  as  it  does,  on 
every  side ;  but  it  cannot  pass  the  limit,  because  it  can- 
iTot  contend  with  their  coldness  and  rterilitv. 


TRAVELLER. 


317 


To  those  Tvho  are  fond  of  field  sports,  the  forests  and 
rivers  afford  every  advantage,  during  the  brief  summer 
which  visits  the  valleys.  Various  kinds  of  wild  birds  and 
game  are  to  be  found  in  the  woods,  beside  the  bearsi 
wild  cats,  and  deer.  The  moose  and  buffalo  were  for« 
merly  abundant  among  the  mountains ;  and  it  is  scarcely 
thirty  years  since  they  were  killed  in  great  numbers, 
merely  for  their  hides  and  tallow ;  as  the  latter  still 
are  in  the  deserts  beyond  the  Mississippi.  Deer  are 
common  in  the  woods,  and  frequently  are  killed  by  the 
hunters.  Sometimes  they  come  boldly  down  into  the 
little  meadow  before  Crawford's  house,  and  quietly  graze 
with  the  cattle.  The  black  bear  are  occasionally  seen  in 
the  more  unfrequented  places  ;  but  they  will  always  en- 
deavour to  avoid  a  man.  A  large  species  of  deer,  here 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Cariboo,  has  made  its  appear- 
ance in  the  White  Mountains  within  a  few  years ;  but 
they  are  still  very  few  in  this  part  of  the  country.  > 

The  weather  is  liable  to  frequent  changes  in  the  moun- 
tainous region,  which  is  partly  owing  to  the  vicinity  of 
the  Miteht  through  which  the  wind  blows,  almost  without 
ceasing,  even  when  the  air  is  perfectly  still  at  only  a  short 
distance  from  it.  From  the  situation  of  the  mountains, 
it  is  impossible  that  the  direction  of  the  wind  should  vary 
materially  in  the  valley ;  and  it  is  therefore,  of  course, 
always  north  or  south.  During  the  winter  it  is  often 
very  violent,  so  that  not  only  the  snow  is  prevented  from 
lying  on  the  path  at  the  Notch  ;  byt  the  surface  is  swept 
of  every  thing  that  a  strong  wind  can  remove. 

The  summits  of  the  mountains  are  frequently  invested 
with  mist,  when  the  skj  is  clear ;  and  those  only  who  in- 
habit the  vicinity,  are  able  to  tell  whether  the  day  is  to  be 
favourable  for  the  ascent.  The  mists  sometimes  collect 
in  the  valleys,  and  then  present  some  of  the  most  singular 
and  beautiful  appearances. 

Ethan  Crawford's  is  4i  miles  from  the  Notch,  12  from 
his  father's  :  and  on  the  other  side,  6  from  Rosebrook's. 

Roads.  There  are  two  roads  hence,  to  Connecticut 
River;  one  over  Cherry  Mountain  (quite  laborious)  to 
Lancaster  ;  the  other,  shorter,  through  Breton  Woods, 
Bethlehem,  and  Littleton,  (rough  and  stony)  to  Bath,  34 
Jnilep.    f.SVc  hufer.] 


918 


THE  NOUTUEUN 


TOUR  OF  MAINE. 

A  line  of  Steam  Navigation  was  commenced  in  1823^ 
between  Boston  and  Portland  and  Bath  ;  and  extended  in 
1824,  about  260  miles  from  Bath  to  Eastport  in  one  di- 
rection, and  about  40  miles  to  Augusta  in  another  ;  and 
in  1386,  again  about '  0  miles  from  Eastport  to  St.  John's, 
in  New- Brunswick,  by  proprietors  residing  at  Eastport; 
and  from  St.  John's  up  the  River  St.  John's  about  80  miles 
to  Frederickton,  by  proprietors  residing  at  St.  John's ;  and 
in  another  direction  by  the  Eastport  proprietors,  from 
Eastport  about  30  miles  on  the  Schoodic  to  St.  Andrew's 
and  Calais.  Two  boats  were  afterwards  put  upon  a  line 
firom  Eastport  to  Annapolis  and  Windsor,  in  Nova  Scotia. 
Another  boat  is  to  run  from  Eastport  to  DennisTille, 
a  distance  of  20  or  30  miles.  The  line  before  occupied, 
including  all  its  collateral  branches  and  ramifications,  ex- 
ceeds 600  miles,  and  is  now  about  700  miles. 

It  is  proposed  in  Boston,  to  enlarge  the  canal  across 
Cape  Ann,  to  admit  the  steam  boats,  which  will  savi^  13 
miles,  and  give  an  opportunity  to  communicate,  d^rCvCi^ 
or  by  smaller  boats,  with  Gloucester,  Newburyport, 
Portsmouth,  Dover,  and  Keniiebunk. 

The  boats  go  about  100  miles  a  day,  and  pass  so 
near  the  shore  as  to  afford  many  interesting  views  of 
the  numerous  islands,  points,  and  bays,  which  abound 
along  the  coast  In  1825,  the  steam  brig  New- York  was 
on  this  line,  and  the  price  was,  from  Boston  to  Portland, 
$5 ;  thence  to  Eastport,  $6,  with  a  deduction  for  forward 
passengers. 

There  are  coaches  going  to  Salem  every  hour  in  tlie 
morning  and  forenoon ;  and  it  may,  perhaps,  be  conve- 
nient to  take  a  seat  in  one  of  them,  as  Salem  is  well 
worthy  of  at  least  a  day's  delay.  Indeed,  if  convenient, 
the  stranger  would  be  gratified  with  several  rides  in  the 
vicinity  of  that  place,  particularly  to  Marblehead. 

Ltnn,  9  mUeaJrom  Boston, 

This  town  is  devoted  to  making  shoes ;  great  numbers 
of  which  are  annually  exported.  Each  house,  almost 
without  exception^  has  a  little  shop  connected  with  it,  in 


TRAVELIER. 


319 


which  the  men  and  boys  employ  themselyes  in  thu  muiu* 
facture. 

The  Lynn  Beach,  of  which  mention  has  before  been 
made,  is  in  thu  town,  and  lies  on  the  way  to  the  fashion- 
able retreat  at  Nahant.  It  is  of  hard  sand,  offering  an 
eicellent  natural  road,  but  is  impassable  at  high  water. 
The  bay  on  which  it  looks  is  one  of  the  places  where  the 
famous  sea  serpent  was  seen  several  years  ago. 

There  is  a  good  inn  in  the  town,  where  the  stage  coach- 
es stop. 

The  country  beyond  is  rather  hilly  and  uninteresting ; 
but  the  road  is  good. 


');•  'i:,:. 


Beyerlt 


is  a  town  which  joins  Salem  so  closely,  as  apparently  to 
form  a  part  of  it.  It  has  a  long  street  through  which  we 
pass,  nearly  at  the  foot  of  a  high,  barren  hill.  This  emi- 
nence is  remarkable  in  the  history  of  witchcraft ;  as  it  is 
the  spot  where  numerous  persons  condemned  for  that 
crime,  in  Salem,  were  executed. 


J.'  '*>'.. 


SALEM. 


The  La  Fayette  Hotel. 
•  This  is  one  of  the  most  populous,  wealthy,  and  beauti* 
ful  towns  in  New- England.  It  was  one  of  the  earliest 
settlements  made  in  Massachusetts  Bay ;  and  the  planting 
of  the  colony  is  annually  celebrated.  Go?ernor  Endicott, 
one  of  the  most  distinguished  individuals  in  the  early  his- 
tory of  this  part  of  the  country,  resided  here. 

Salem  was  for  many  years  engaged  in  an  extensive  and 
lucrative  commerce,  particularly  with  China ;  and  the 
appearance  of  the  town  is  sufficient  to  show  that  it  still 
contains  a  great  deal  of  wealth.  The  harbour  is  fine,  and 
the  wharves  still  well  supplied  with  stores ;  but  the  trade 
of  the  place  has  materially  diminished.  The  streets  are 
generally  too  narrow ;  but  the  banks,  insurance  offices, 
and  churches,  are  many  of  them  handsome  buildings. 
The  Square  is  a  large  and  beautiful  tract  of  ground,  near 
the  centre  of  the  town.  About  it  are  seen  many  of 
the  finest  private  buildings  in  the  place,  which,  indeed. 


OM 


THE  NORTHERN 


may  be  compared  for  size  and  elegance,  with  those  in  any 
part  of  the  United  States. 

The  Jtfisrine  Muaetim  is  an  institution  highly  creditable 
to  the  town,  being  an  association  of  respectable  nautical 
and  commercial  individuals,  formed  for  the  purpose  of 
making  useful  observations,  and  collecting  curiosities  from 
all  quarters  of  the  world.  No  one  can  become  a  member 
who  has  not  doubled  Cape  Horn,  or  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  either  as  master  or  supercargo  of  a  vessel ;  and 
each  of  them  is  supplied  with  a  journal,  in  which  he  is  to 
note  down  such  remarks  as  he  tbSnks  important,  during 
his  voyages.  These  are  submitted  to  the  inspection  of  a 
committee ;  and  the  curiosities  brought  home  are  deposit- 
ed in  a  handsome  building  belonging  to  the  society,  which 
is  well  worthy  of  the  particular  attention  of  strangers. 

Access  is  readily  gained  by  application  to  any  of  the 
members:  this  extensive  and  highly  interesting  cabinet 
beii^  closed  only  for  the  purpose  of  security,  and  no  fee 
being  required  for  admission.  The  room  is  large,  and 
well  lighted,  and  filled  with  curiosities  from  ail  quarters 
of  the  world,  and  many  specimens  belonging  to  all  the 
branches  of  natural  history.  The  arrangement  is  made 
with  great  taste,  and  several  hours,  or  indeed  days,  will 
hardly  be  sufficient  for  an  examination  of  all  it  contains. 

The  top  of  the  hotel  commands  a  fine  and  extensive 
view,  over  the  town  and  its  environs,  with  the  harbour, 
and  the  fine  coves  which  set  up  on  both  sides.  A  project 
has  been  formed  for  connecting  the  two  bodies  of  water 
which  form  the  peninsula,  by  means  of  a  canal,  which 
would  furnish  great,  and  very  desirable  manufacturing 
facilities. 

jju^"  •-Tf  sait^V- 1  tut  v.;  •..-i^  vii< 

uf^i  ,bfl*   r#Ri.O:  .    Marblehead.  ■        ;  ■       ' 

There  is  a  good  road  to  this  town,  which  stands  at  the 
end  of  a  rocky  promontory,  4  miles  south-east  from  Sa- 
lem. It  contains  a  handsome  square,  and  some  very  good 
houses ;  but  it  is  principally  inhabited  by  fishermen,  whose 
manner  of  life  precludes  in,  a  great  degree,  the  intellec- 
tual improvement  generally  so  characteristic  of  New- Eng- 
land. The  harbour  is  a  small  bay,  protected  by  barren 
rocks,  and  afibrds  shelter  to  the  numerous  fishing  schoo- 


TRAVELLER. 


331 


Iters  employed  in  the  Cod  fishery.  The  men  and  boys 
are  abtient  from  home  a  great  part  of  the  year ;  as  each 
vessel  usually  makes  three  fishing  voyages,  or  **fares,V  as 
they  are  here  called,  every  season.  They  lie  on  the  Banks 
until  they  have  caught  a  load  of  fish,  which  are  opened 
and  salted  as  soon  as  taken.  The  vessels  then  return, 
and  the  fish  are  spread  to  dry  on  wooden  frames,  called 
flakes ;  great  numbers  of  which  will  be  seen  on  the  shore. 
There  is  a  fort  at  the  extremity  of  the  town,  which  com- 
mands the  entrance  to  the  harbour,  and  affords  a  view  of 
many  miles  over  the  neighbouring  sheets  of  water.  The 
islands  at  the  entrance  of  Salem  are  wild  and  rocky ;  and 
the  sea  breaks  over  them  with  violence  in  an  easterly 
storm.  Towards  the  south  are  seen  several  headlands 
of  this  iron-bound  coast ;  which  for  a  great  eiteut,  even 
down  to  the  extremity  of  Massachusetts,  must  have  ap- 
peared one  of  the  most  inhospitable  to  the  pilgrims,  who 
began  their  settlements  on  this  part  of  New-England. 

Newburtport. 

Stage  House  or  Merrimac  Hotel,  on  the  hill.  This  is  a 
large,  and  to  a  considerable  extent  a  regularly  built  town, 
38  miles  from  Boston.  The  greater  part  of  it  lies  in 
squares,  and  the  best  streets  are  built  entirely  of  brick. 
What  is  commonly  called  Newburyport,  however,  is  com- 
posed of  two  distinct  towns.  The  original  township  of 
Newbury  includes  that  part,  which  reaches  to  within 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore  ;  and  the  rest,  a 
mile  along  the  water,  where  the  wharves,  the  market 
building,  most  of  the  stores,  shops,  &c.  are  found,  is  all 
which  is  properly  speaking  called  Newburyport,  although 
there  is  no  division  but  an  imaginary  line. 

The  Court  House  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  at 
the  head  of  a  street  running  to  (he  river. 

The  harbour  is  fine,  and  the  place  once  enjoyed  a  brisk 
and  lucrative  commerce ;  but  it  has  suffered  severely  iVom 
two  great  fires,  within  a  few  years,  and  still  more  from 
circumstances  which  cut  off"  the  trade.  A  plan  b  now  ma- 
turing for  the  improvement  of  tbe  navigation  of  the  Mer- 
rimac, which,  if  carried  into  effect,  can  hardly  fail  to  pro- 

Ff  2 


:m. 


398 


THE  NORTHERN 


duce  results  of  great  importance  to  the  place.  The  falls 
at  HaverhQl  cut  off  the  boat  navigation,  at  the  distance  of 
about  12  miles ;  but  if  these  were  avoided  by  a  canal,  the 
water  communication  would  be  opened  to  Concord,  and  a 
great  part  of  the  products  now  sent  to  Boston,  by  the 
Middlesex  Canal,  would  come  to  Newburyport.  It  is  es- 
timated, that  the  work  would  cost  about  two  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  and  that  the  water  power  it  would  fur- 
nish for  machinery  might  be  sold  for  about  an  equal  sura. 

Stage  Coaches.  The  mail  coach  from  Boston  for 
Portland  arrives  at  7  A.  M.  and  returns  about  2  P.  M. 
There  is  also  an  Accommodation  Line,  which  travels  only 
by  day  light.  The  Concord  coach  leaves  here  about  noon. 

The  late  Timothy  Dexter's  house  is  now  a  tavern,  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  stage  house,  on  the  road  to  Ports- 
mouth. The  garden  was  formerly  curiously  ornamented 
with  wooden  statues  of  dintrnguisbed  individuals. 

The  bridge  over  the  Merrimac  has  a  little  rocky  island 
for  its  buttress.  The  current  is  strong,  and  just  north  of 
it  are  several  places  where  the  channel  appears  once  to 
have  been. 


';  Hampton,  10  miZcs. 

Portsmouth, 
62  miles  from  Boston,  5S  from  Portland, 

Brown's  Stage  House. 

The  environs  of  the  ^own  show  many  neat  and  pleasant 
houses  of  wood  ;  and  the  middle  part  of  it  is  principally 
of  brick,  with  some  handsome  public  buildings,  although 
the  streets  are  generally  too  narrow.  It  has  been  a  place 
of  much  commerce.  The  old  church  is  a  specimen  of  old 
times.  The  Navy  Yard,  on  an  island  opposite  the  town, 
contains  two  large  ship  buildings,  one  for  frigates  and  the 
other  for  line-of>battle  ships. 

The  bridge  across  the  Piscataqua,  leads  into  the  state  of 
Maine,  which  was,  until  within  three  or  four  years,  a  dis- 
trict of  Massachusetts.  The  current  is  very  strong.  The 
navy  yard  is  seen  on  the  east,  with  the  ship  houses,  &c. 

Amesburt.  The  two  Flannel  Manufactories,  seen  at  a 
distance  on  the  west,  (on  the  Powaw  River,  which  has 


TRAVELLER. 


333 


a  fall  of  30  or  40  feet,)  were  expected  to  manufacture  in 
1826,  more  than  20,000  pieces  of  flannel :  in  all  a  million 
of  yards. 

The  country  on  this  road  is  of  a  gently  rolling  form,  ge- 
nerally very  poor,  without  trees,  and  changing  only  from 
sand  to  rocks ;  and  affords  very  few  objects  of  interest, 
except  an  occasional  view  of  the  sea  shore,  and  several 
spots  remarkable  for  their  connexion  with  the  history  of 
the  country. 


York. 


There  are  some  pleasant  fields  about  this  little  place, 
but  its  size  is  insignificant,  particularly  when  contrasted 
with  anticipations  formed  of  its  destiny  at  the  time  of  its 
first  settlement :  for  the  ground  was  laid  out  for  a  city, 
and  the  divisions  of  the  land  still  retain  much  of  the  regu- 
lar form  given  it  by  the  first  surveyors. 

The  Nubble  is  a  rocky  point,  4^  miles  from  York, 
with  a  cluster  of  miserable  huts  in  the  rear,  called,  in  de- 
rision, the  city,  or  metropolis  of  Gape  Neddock,  from  a 
point  of  that  name  still  further  on. 

While  travelling  along  this  dreary  country,  near  the 
place  where  a  round  bill  of  a  peculiar  appearance  first 
presents  itself  in  front,  and  then  the  ocean,  the  road 
passes  the  site  of  an  old  fort  or  block  house,  built  before 
Philip's  war.  Nothing  is  now  to  be  seen  of  it  from  the 
road,  excepting  a  part  of  the  old  wall,  which  is  built  of 
large  stones,  laid  with  greater  regularity  than  is  practised 
now.  A  hovel  stands  near  the  wall,  shaded  by  a  few 
trees,  about  100  yards  west  of  the  road. 

The  Agamenticus  Hills  form  a  range  some  distance 
west. 

Lower  Welles.  There  is  a  little  harbour  here,  de- 
fended by  a  sand  bar,  with  a  narrow  entrance  under  a 
rock  ;  but  it  is  almost  dry  at  low  water. 

Welles.  The  sea  often  breaks  beautifully  on  the 
beach,  in  front  of  the  tavern.  Porpoise  Point  is  just 
distinguishable  in  the  north-east ;  and  the  view  o(  the  sea 
is  fine  and  refreshing. 

Three  miles  beyond  is  Breakneck  Hill,  over  which  falls 


324 


THE  NORTHEUN 


a  small  stream,  from  the  heigbt  of  30  feet,  aljotit  40  yardi; 
from  the  path.  Here,  says  a  blind  tradition,  a  small  tribe 
of  In4ians  met  an  indiscriminate  destruction,  in  the  fo|. 
lowing  manner.  Being  on  their  return  from  their  annual 
fishing  excursion  on  the  upper  part  of  the  stream,  they  des- 
patched some  of  their  number  to  make  a  fire  on  the  rock 
which  divides  the  falls,  as  they  found  they  should  not  reach 
this  place  before  night.  The  white  men  in  the  neighbour- 
hood by  some  means  learning  their  design,  shot  the  mes- 
sengers, and  then  collectidg  the  limbs  of  trees,  made  a 
great  fire  on  the  high  bank  below  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  road.  The  Indians,  says  the  story,  being  deceived, 
did  not  attempt  to  stop  their  canoes  in  season,  and  were 
all  carried  over  the  falls  and  killed.  A  similar  tale  is  re- 
lated, with  more  appearance  of  credibility,  of  the  falls  on 
the  Androscoggin  River. 

The  Fort  was  half  a  mile  beyond,  or  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  northerly  from  the  church.  The  site  is  distin- 
guished by  the  angle  of  an  old  wall,  built  of  large,  regular, 
but  unhewn  stones,  on  the  east  side  of  the  road.  The 
marks  of  the  foundation  appear  to  be  yet  visible  a  little 
back,  and  the  situation  is  very  pleasant,with  a  smooth  plain 
around  it,  and  a  gentle  slope  in  the  rear  to  a  little  mea- 
dow, where  the  settlers  used  to  obtain  their  hay.  The 
ocean  is  in  full  view  below.  This  little  fortress  was 
once  attacked  by  500  Indians,  who  at  first  supposed, 
as  was  the  fact,  that  the  men  were  absent  from  home. 
The  place  was,  however,  very  bravely  and  successfully  de- 
fended by  five  women,  who  put  on  their  husbands  clothes, 
and  fired  so  wi^mly  upon  their  invaders,  as  to  force  them 
to  retreat. 

Kenmbbunk,  25  miles  from  Portland.  Here  the  mail 
coach  from  Portland  stops  for  breakfast.  It  is  a  small 
place,  but  once  carried  on  a  considerable  lumber  trade 
ivith  the  West  Indies. 

Saco,  fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  Just  south  of  this 
village  is  the  mouth  of  the  Saco,  which  rises  on  Mount 
Washington.  Cutts*s  Island  of  75  acres  divides  the  stream, 
just  at  the  falls,  and  is  to  be  converted  to  manufacturing 
purposes. 

The  soil  here  is  very  rocky,  easily  furnishing  ma- 
terials for  building,  which  has  already  commenced  on 


mk 


TRAVELLER. 


335 


A  large  scale.  The  fall  is  about  thirty  feet,  the  water 
abundant  at  all  seasons,  and  a  landing  place  for  vesselfl 
only  a  few  yards  distant,  which  will  greatly  favour  the 
transportation  of  raw  and  manufactured  articles.  The 
land  bought  in  1925  on  the  island,  with  a  portion  of  the 
water  power,  cost  about  $100,000.  Great  quantities 
«f  timber  have  long  been  sawn  at  these  falls. 


PORTLAND,  15  mi7««. 


Mitchell's  Hotel.    The  Stage  house. 

The  situation  of  this  place  is  remarkably  fine,  occupy- 
ing the  ridge  and  side  of  a  high  point  of  land  with  a  hand- 
some, though  shallow  bay,  on  one  side,  and  the  harbour 
on  the  other.  The  anchorage  is  protected  on  every  side 
by  land,  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  communication  with 
the  sea  direct  and  convenient.  Congress-street  runs  along 
the  ridge  of  the  hill,  and  contains  a  number  of  very  ele- 
gant private  houses.  There  is  also  the  Town  Hall,  with 
the  market  below,  aud  a  beautiful  new  church,  with  gra- 
nite columns.  The  steps  are  fine  blocks  of  granite, 
6  feet  by  9,  brought  from  the  quarry  at  Brunswick,  22 
miles  distant,  and  cost  about  $40  each.  This  street  rises, 
as  it  approaches  the  end  of  the  neck  or  promontory,  to  the 
Observatory f  a  tower  82  feet  high,  and,  with  its  base,  142 
feet  above  the  water,  which  commands  an  extensive  and 
very  fine  view  on  every  side. 

From  the  Observatory,  south  and  south-west  are  se- 
veral distant  eminences :  among  others,  the  Agomenticus 
Hills  ;  north'West  are  seen,  in  clear  weather,  the  lofty 
ridges  and  peaks  of  the  White  Hills  in  New-Hampshire, 
which  are  discovered  at  sea,  often  before  the  nearer  land 
appears  in  sight.  The  country  on  the  north  presents  little 
that  is  interesting,  and  the  water  nearer  at  hand  is  only 
an  inlet  of  the  sea. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  the  high  land  on  the  south  side  of 
the  harbour ;  and  the  islands,  which  nearly  close  its  en- 
trance, are  called  Bangs's  and  House  Islands.  Fort  Pre- 
ble stands  on*  the  former,  and  Fort  Scammel,  only  a  block 
house,  on  the  latter.    It  is  proposed  by  the  United  States 


326 


THE  NOUTIIERN 


to  expend  $165,000  in  enlarging  these  defences.  Due 
east  is  Seguin  Light  House,  which  is  visible,  in  clear  wea- 
ther, 33  miles  distant,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec. 
Nearer,  and  in  the  same  quarter,  lie  numerous  islands  of 
various  forms  and  divided  by  little  channels  and  bays, 
some  of  which  are  deep.  They  are  generally  covered 
with  trees  and  rocks,  but  present  a  beautiful  variety  to 
the  view  in  that  direction.  Their  number  is  not  known, 
but  is  usually  estimated  at  365,  to  correspond  with  that  of 
the  days  in  the  year. 

The  entrenchments  on  the  hill,  west  of  the  obsenratorr, 
belong  to  Fort  Sumner,  and  part  of  them  were  made  m 
the  Revolutionary  war.  Under  the  bluflT,  on  the  water^s 
edge,  is  Fort  Burroughs. 

Falmouth  (the  former  name  of  Portland,)  was  burnt 
in  the  Revolutionary  war,  by  Capt.  Mowatt,  in  the  Bri- 
tish sloop  of  War  Canceau,  on  the  18th  of  October,  1775, 
on  the  refusal  of  the  inhabitants  to  deliver  up  their  arms. 
About  130  houses,  three-quarters  of  all  the  place  con- 
tained, were  consumed,  some  being  set  on  fire  with 
brands,  alter  a  cannonade  and  bombardment  of  9  hours. 
The  old  church  is  among  the  buildings  saved,  and  has  the 
mark  of  a  cannon  shot  in  it.  A  small  part  of  Mitchell's 
hotel  belonged  to  one  of  the  houses  not  destroyed. 

There  are  some  fine  stores  and  dwelling  houses  in  the 
middle  of  the  town,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with  wharves 
and  shipping :  for  the  place  is  beginning  to  prosper  again, 
although  it  has  lost  an  extensive  trade  which  it  cannot 
recover.    There  is  a  small  JHuseum  in  the  place. 

Remarks  to  thb  Traveller  at  Portland.  The 
Boston  Mail  Coach  leaves  here  every  morning  at  4,  and 
reaches  Boston  at  9  P.  M.  the  Accommodation  at  8,  and 
arrives  next  day,  stopping  for  the  night  at  Portsmouth. 

The  communication  with  Dover,  Concord,  &c.  is  easy, 
and  the  traveller  going  in  that  direction,  is  referred  to  the 
index  for  those  and  other  places  in  his  way.  He  may  take 
the  route  to  the  White  Hills  by  Fryeburgh ;  the  road 
leads  through  a  wild  and  thinly  populated  country,  hn*  is 
not  devoid  of  interest.  The  stage  coach  reaches  Conway 
in  a  day  by  this  route,  passing  through  Gorham,  Standi^li, 
Baldwin,  Hiram,  and  Fryeburgh. 


>t 


Kk^kl 


TUAVELLER. 


327 


TUo  eastern  and  north<eastern  routes  only,  remain  to 
be  spoken  of.  The  road  aloifg  the  sea  roa^t  is  more  un- 
interesting, passing  over  a  rocky  soil,  and  is  recommended 
in  going  from  Portland.  The  upper  road  leads  through  a 
considerable  eitont  of  fertile  country,  indeed  the  garden 
of  Maine,  and  shows  several  pleasant  and  flourishing  vil- 
lages, by  tvhicb  it  may  be  mure  agreeable  to  return.  The 
settlement  of  a  great  part  of  that  region,  still,  is  so 
recent,  that  the  traveller  will  not  And  so  good  accommo- 
dations, nor  so  many  objects  of  intereat,  as  in  many  other 
parts  of  the  country.  The  inhabitants,  however,  are  in- 
creasing very  rapidly,  and  great  improvements  of  every 
kind  are  annually  introduced,  which  produce  a  scene  of 
great  activity  and  prosperity,  particularly  between  the 
Kennebec  and  Penobscot  Rivers. 


Remarks  on  the  Country  North-East  from 

Portland. 


In  consequence  of  the  position,  the  climate,  and  soil  of 
Maine,  the  improvement  of  the  country  has  been  much 
retarded.  Settlements  were  made  on  the  coast  as  early  as 
1607,  and  several  others  not  long  afterwards  :  but  they 
suffered  severely  in  the  Indian  wars,  and  their  vicinity  to 
the  French  missions,  which  embraced  all  the  eastern  part 
of  the  present  state,  exposed  them  to  imminent  danger. 
In  later  times  the  population  was  principally  confined  to 
the  sea  coast,  for  the  convenience  of  fishing  and  com- 
merce, and  thus  the  good  land,  which  lies  some  distance 
back  in  the  country,  was  almost  entirely  neglected.  After 
the  Revolutionary  war,  this  extensive  region  remained  in 
the  condition  of  a  district  belonging  to  Massachusetts. 
Within  three  or  four  years  it  has  been  received  into  the 
Union,  as  a  separate  state  ;  and  agriculture  having  been 
introduced,  the  emigration  from  the  neighbouring  states 
has  rapidly  swelled  its  population. 

In  travelling  in  Maine,  the  stranger  observes  the  same 
order  of  things  as  in  the  interior  of  New- York,  Ohio,  and 
other  parts  of  the  country,  which  are  fast  improving.  It 
is  but  a  few  years  since  agriculture  was  almost  unknowh 


32S 


THE  NORTHERN 


here,  and  now  the  interior  region  between  the  Kenneber 
and  Penobscot  Rivers  is  well  peopled,  and  presents  a  scene 
of  rural  cultivation  and  prosperity  rarely  equalled.  That 
is  of  course  the  most  attractive  route  for  the  traveller ; 
and  the  road  from  Portland  lies  through  Augusta  and 
Hallowell.  Those  who  are  going  to  New- Brunswick,  &c. 
are  advised  to  take  this  route,  unless  they  prefer  the  less 
fatiguing  mode  of  travelling  in  the  steam  boat. 

Most  persons  going  eastward  from  Portland,  will  wish 
to  return ;  and  the  brief  tour  which  we  shall  give  will  be 
pianned  for  their  convenience  and  pleasure,  by  proceed- 
ing first  along  the  sea  coast,  and  then  returning  through 
the  fine  tract  of  country  in  the  interior. 

It  may  be  proper  here  to  mention,  that  two  roads  are 
to  be  surveyed  this  year  to  Quebec :  one  by  the  hiver 
Kennebec,  and  the  other  by  the  Penobscot.  At  present 
there  are  no  roads  through  the  northern  wilderness, 
though  a  communication  has  been  kept  up  that  way  fov 
several  years,  and  herds  of  cattle  are  occasionally  driven 
into  Canada.  The  hardy  and  enterprising  traveller  may, 
perhaps,  be  willing  to  encounter  the  inconvenience  of 
lodging  in  the  open  air,  and  such  fare  as  the  wilderness 
affords ;  but  few  will  attempt  the  route  for  pleasure,  until 
the  intended  improvements  shall  have  been  made. 

For  the  distances  of  the  principal  places  on  the  route 
from  Portland  to  Quebec,  see  page  222. 


Canals  projected  in  Maine. 


From  Sebago  Pond  to  Portland.  This  would  re- 
quire an  excavation  of  only  6  miles,  to  effect  a  commu- 
nication between  a  chain  of  ponds  or  lakes,  capable 
of  furnishing  large  supplies  of  timber,  and  many  pro- 
ducts of  agriculture,  if  their  settlement  were  once 
encouraged. 

From  the  Androscoggin  at  Wayne's  Mills,  to  the  Ken- 
nebec at  Gardner.  There  is  a  dead  water  navigation  to 
within  five  miles  of  the  former,  but  then  there  is  an  as- 
rent  of  260  feet  to  the  level  of  its  cTirrent. 


TKAVELLMK. 


329 


Route  from  Portland  to  Belfast,  Castine, 
Bangor,  &c. 

Travelling  round  to  the  head  of  Casco  Bay,  you  pass 
t1irou|;h  North  Yarmouth  and  Freeport,  and  arrive  at 
Brunswick,  26  miles.  This  is  the  site  of  Bowdoin  College, 
the  principal  institution  of  the  state.  It  was  burnt  two 
or  three  years  ago,  and  contained,  in  1825,  120  students. 

The  whole  road  from  Portland  to  Bath,  34  miles,  lie^j 
along  the  coast,  where  the  soil  is  rocky  and  poor. 

Bath 

is  a  town  of  considerable  trade,  situated  on  the  Kennebec, 
at  the  distance  of  sixteen  miles  fromi  the  sea.     Here  are 
several  public  buildings,  and  among  the  rest,  two  banks. 
Woolwich  is  opposite  Bath. 

WiSCASSET, 

14  miles  from  Bath.  This  is  one  of  the  principal  ports  of 
the  state,  and  has  an  excellent  harbour,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Sheepscot  River. 

Stage  Coaches  run  north  to  Bangor,  on  the  Penobscot. 
They  pass  through  Newcastle,  Nobleborough,  Waldobo- 
rough.  Union,  Appleton,  Searsmont,  and  Belmont.  There 
are  two  branch  lines :  one  to  Thomastown  through  War- 
ren ;  and  another  to  Hamden,  through  Camden,  Lincoln- 
shire, Northport,  Belfast,  Swanville,  and  Frankfort. 

From  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta  is  rough  and  rocky  ;  but 
the  ride  presents  many  interesting  views,  as  the  landscape 
is  continually  changing,  and  is  often  varied  by  the  sight 
of  Damascotta  River,  and  several  beautiful  little  lakes  or 
ponds. 

Damascotta  Bridge.  Here  is  a  considerable  village, 
at  the  distance  of  16  miles  from  the  sea  coast. 

Booth  Bay 

lies  off  the  road  from  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta.  It  has 
a  commodious  harbour,  with  a  number  of  islands  in 
the  vicinity ;  and  the  neighbouring  high  ground  afibrds 
a  very  fine  and  extensive  view.  The  hill,  on  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  bay,  was  surveyed  for  a  city  in  the 

n  o- 


330 


THE  NORTHERN 


early  part  of  the  last  century,  which  was  to  have  borne 
the  name  of  Townsend,  but  the  building  of  it  was  never 
begun.  The  harbour  has  been  considered  a  good  site  for 
anavaldSpot. 

Antiquities.  Two  or  three  miles  off  the  road,  be- 
tween Linniken's  Bay  and  Damascutta  River,  where 
was  formerly  an  Indian  carrying  place,  the  remains  of 
cellar  walls  and  chimneys  are  found,  as  also  broken  kettles, 
wedges,  &c.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  are  the  hulks  of  two 
or  three  large  vessels  sunk  in  the  water ;  and  on  the  shore, 
the  ruins  of  an  old  grist  mill,  where  the  presen.  one 
stands.  On  the  islands  opposite  the  town,  are  other 
ruins,  the  history  of  which  is  unknown,  as  will  as  that  oC 
those  Already  mentioned.  The  only  fact  which  seems  to 
afford  any  clew  to  their  origin,  is,  thai  Sir  John  Popham 
made  an  attempt  to  build  a  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ken- 
nebec, in  the  year  1607.  ^ 

WALDOBORoacH,  10  milcs. 

Warren,  7  miles. 

Thomastown, 

Centre  Village,  6  miles.  Here  are  quarries  of  marble 
and  lime  stone,  from  the  latter  of  wbich  about  100,000 
barrels  of  lime  are  made  every  year  for  exportation. 
The  marble  is  also  wrought  in  considerable  quantities. 
A  visit  to  the  work  shops  may  be  interesting,  as  the 
operation  of  polishing  is  performed  by  machinery  moved 
by  water.  There  is  a  cotton  manufactory  on  Mill  River. 
The  village  is  15  miles  from  the  sea. 

The  State  Prison  stands  in  a  commanding  and  plea- 
sant situation.  Ii  has  50  solitary  cells,  built  of  granite, 
in  blocks  from  4  to  6  feet  in  length,  and  2  in  thickness. 
Each  cell  has  an  opening  at  the  tup,  with  small  holes  in 
the  walls  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air,  which,  dming  the 
winter  season,  is  warmed  before  it  is  admitted.  The 
Warden^s  house  is  also  built  of  granite,  and  is  two  stories 
high,  placed  in  the  middle,  with  a  row  of  cells  on  each 
side.  The  prison  yard  is  surrounded  by  a  circular  wooden 
paling,  and  encloses  nearly  three  acres,  in  which  is  a  lime 
^inarry.    Several  workshops  on  the  ground  serve  the  puv- 


TRAVELLER. 


331 


poses  of  the  convicts,  ivho  are  employed  in  burning  lime 
and  other  manufactures. 

The  Knox  Estate.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  State 
Prison  is  the  ancient  residence  of  the  late  General  Knox. 
The  mansion  was  three  stories  high,  large,  and  elegant, 
particularly  for  a  country  so  little  cultivated  and  inhabited 
as  this  at  the  time  of  its  erection.  It  is  now  in  a 
state  of  great  decay  ;  but  some  of  the  remaining  decora> 
tions  of  the  grounds  may  give  an  idea  of  its  original  ap- 
pearance. The  approach  to  the  house  is  through  a  cy- 
press grove  ;  and  in  front  of  it  extends  a  handsome  grass 
plat.  General  Knox  was  one  of  Washington's  principal 
officers,  and  acted  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  Revolutionary 
war. 

From  Thomastown  to  Belfast,  (30  miles,)  the  road 
is  hard,  and  commands  many  views  of  Penobscot  Bay,  with 
a  few  islands  on  the  right,  and  a  partially  cultivated  country 
on  the  left,  with  some  mountainous  scenes.  Belfast  is  a 
flourishing  port,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill. 
The  road  hence  to  Castine,  round  the  bay,  is  35  miles, 
passing  through  Prospect,  Buckport,  Orland  and  Penob- 
scot. 

(Castine  was  taken  during  the  late  war  by  a  fleet,  and 
the  British  entrenchments  are  to  be  seen  on  the  hill 
above.) 

The  road  from  Belfast  to  Bangor  lies  along  the  course 
of  the  Penobscot  River. 

Bangor 

13  a  very  flourishing  village,  newly  risen  into  import- 
ance, in  consequence  of  having  taken  a  good  deal  of  tho 
interior  trade  from  Belfast.  It  occupies  a  commanding 
position  for  this  object,  and  is  undoubtedly  destined  to  ex- 
perience a  gr(:at  and  rapid  increase,  proportioned  to  the 
extension  of  settlements  in  the  upper  country.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  increased  between  1820  and 
1825,  from  1221  to  2002.  The  scenery  here  begins 
to  assume  much  of  that  mountainous  character,  which 
prevails  so  extensively  through  a  large  part  of  the  in- 
terior. ▲  very  conspicuous  and  noble  eminence  is  ob- 
served at  a  distance  in  the  north,  called  Ktardin  JVfounta^n, 
the  elevation  of  which  has  never,  it  is  believed,  been  ac- 


332 


THE  NOUTIIEUN 


curately  ascertained.  It  is  considered  the  highest  land 
in  the  state,  and  has  been  compared  for  altitude  with 
Mount  Washington  in  N.  Hampshire :  whether  with  Jus- 
tice or  not,  a  scientific  measurement  will  determine. 

In  the  year  1825,  the  land  agents  visited  a  tract  of 
country  inhabited  by  about  two  thousand  persons,  who 
had  been  before  unknown  as  belonging  to  the  state,  having 
never  been  represented  in  the  legislature,  or  included  in  any 
census.  They  are  partly  descendants  of  refugees,  and 
partly  half-pay  officers,  Irish  and  Scotch.  The  vast  tract 
of  wilderness  intervening  between  them  and  the  lower 
country  had  prevented  intercourse.  Their  country  is  rich 
and  beautiful,  on  the  St.  John's  River,  near  the  boundary 
of  N.  Brunswick  ;  and  many  of  them  desired  to  be  re- 
ceived into  the  jurisdiction  of  the  State  Government. 

The  opening  of  a  road  along  the  course  of  the  Penob- 
scot to  Quebec,  by  the  way  of  St.  John's,  the  survey  cf 
which  was  authorized  this  year,  cannot  fail  to  accelerate 
the  settlement  of  this  country,  and  to  increase  the  value 
and  the  products  of  the  soil.  It  will  also  prove  hereafter 
a  very  convenient  route  for  travellers  going  to  and  from 
Canada,  and  doubtless  form  a  part  of  the  grand  northern 
tour,  which  will  then  be  complete. 

From  Bangor  we  begin  our  return  to  Portland,  taking 
the  route  through  the  finest  part  of  the  state  of  Maine. 
The  road  to  Augusta  and  Hallowell  on  the  Kennebec,  lies 
through  a  region  rapidly  improving  under  the  management 
of  an  active,  industrious,  and  increasing  population.  The 
value  of  the  soil  has  greatly  advanced  within  a  short  time, 
and  it  is  the  grand  centre  of  emigration.  There  is  ano> 
ther  road  to  Hallowell  through  Bath.  Coaches  travel 
each  way  three  times  a  week. 

Augusta  is  a  considerable  town  and  very  flourishing. 
It  is  situated  at  the  falls  of  the  Kennebec,  where  the  wa- 
ter and  the  descent  of  the  channel  is  sufficient  to  set  in 
motion  several  hundred  wheels,  and  will  probably  be 
hereafter  extensively  employed  for  manufacturing  purposes. 

Peipscot  Falls.  Near  Lewistown,  on  the  Androscog- 
gin River,  is  a  remarkable  cataract,  where  the  current 
breaks  through  a  range  of  mountains,  and  pours  over  a 
broken  ledge  of  rocks.    The  scene  is  wild  and  strikin? : 


TRAVELLER. 


333 


and  derives  an  additional  interest,  from  its  connexion 
with  the  history  of  a  tribe  of  Indians,  long  since  extinct. 

According  to  a  tradition  current  in  the  neighbourhood, 
the  upper  parts  of  this  stream  were  formerly  the  residence 
of  the  Rockmego  Indians,  who  inhabited  a  fine  and  fer- 
tile plain  through  which  the  river  winds.  The  situation 
was  remote,  and  they  had  never  engaged  in  any  hostilities 
with  the  whites,  but  devoted  themselves  to  hunting  and 
fishing.  The  ground  still  contains  many  remains  of  their 
weapons,  utensils,  &c.  They  were,  however,  at  length 
perNuaded  tu  engage  in  a  hostile  incursion  against  Bruns- 
wick, at  that  time  an  exposed  frontier  settlement ;  and 
the  whole  tribe  embarked  in  their  canoes  to  accomplish 
the  enterprise.  The  stream  flows  gently  on  for  a  great 
distance,  until  it  approaches  very  near  to  the  falls ;  and 
this  was  the  spot  appointed  for  the  night  encampment. 
Night  set  in  before  their  arrival ;  and  they  sent  two  men 
forward  to  make  fires  upon  the  banks  a  little  above  the 
cataract.  For  some  unknown  reason  the  fires  were 
kindled  below  the  falls  ;  and  the  Indians  being  thus  de- 
ceived concerning  their  situation,  did  not  bring  up  their  ca- 
noes to  the  shore  in  ><eason,  and  wer  carried  over  the  rocksy 
and  the  tribe  all  destroyed  together.  Their  bodies,  it  is 
said,  were  carried  by  the  stream  down  to  the  village  they 
had  intended  to  attack. 

The  hills  near  the  falls  afford  many  evidences  of  having 
been  the  residence  of  Indians,  who  were  cut  off  by  the 
whites;  in  a  sudden  attack,  many  years  ago. 


G 


This  is  { 
Tvho  inten 
this  yoluix 
packets  wl 
afford  free 
road  to  the 
few  good  i 
prefer  the 

Chariest 
houses  ;  a 
hospitality 
offers  man 
there  is  an 
dens,  amo 
iigure. 


is  an  institi 
is  said,  the 


is  a  buildin 


on  Sullivan 
cessful  resi 
during  the  I 
tance  to  th< 
ofthebarbo 
The  cou 
generally  ui 
'ind  offers  li 


SUPPLEMENT. 


CHARLESTON,  South  Carolina. 

This  is  a  place  from  which  many  travellers  will  set  out, 
who  intend  to  visit  those  parts  of  the  country  to  which 
this  volume  relates.  The  numerous  and  commodious 
packets  which  pass  between  Charleston  and  New-York, 
afford  frequent  opportunities  of  communication.  The 
road  to  the  northern  states  is  so  long  and  tedious,  with  so 
few  good  inns,  and  so  few  objects  of  interest,  that  many 
prefer  the  voyage. 

Charleston  has  some  fine  streets,  with  many  elegant 
houses  ;  and  the  inhabitants  bear  a  high  character  for 
hospitality  and  friendliness  to  strangers.  The  climate 
offers  many  attractions  at  some  seasons  of  the  y^<:ar,  as 
there  is  an  abundance  of  fine  fruit  cultivated  in  tlie  gar- 
dens, among  which  the  fig  makes  a  very  conspicuous 
figure. 

The  Orphan  Asylum 

is  an  institution  highly  creditable  to  the  city,  being,  {is  it 
is  said,  the  largest  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  U.  S. 

The  Circvlar  Church 
is  a  building  of  great  size  and  a  singular  form. 

I 

Fort  Moultrie, 

on  Sullivan's  Island,  is  famous  for  a  desperate  and  suc- 
cessful resistance  it  sustained  against  the  British  ships 
during  the  Revolutionary  war,  which  proved  of  great  impor- 
tance to  the  American  arms.  The  island  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  harbour,  at  the  distance  of  seven  miles  from  the  city. 
The  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Charleston  is 
generally  uniform,  level,  covered  with  a  growth  of  pines, 
and  offers  little  variety  to  the  eye. 


336 


SUPPLEMENT. 


WASHINGTON, 


The  seat  of  Government  of  the  United  States,  is  8itu< 
ated  beiween  the  Potomac  River  and  its  eastern  branch, 
about  a  mile  und  a  half  above  their  junction.  It  is  di- 
vided into  three  distinct  parts,  which  are  built  about  the 
Navy  Yard,  the  Capitol  Hill,  and  the  Pennsylvania  Ave- 
nue. The  Capitol  is  an  immense  building  with  two  wings, 
surrounded  by  an  open  piece  of  ground,  and  occupying  an 
elevated  position,  which  renders  it  a  conspicuous  object 
in  different  directions  for  several  miles. 

The  original  plan  of  the  city  was  very  extensive :  the 
principal  streets  meeting  from  all  points  of  the  compass 
at  the  Capitol,  and  bearing  the  names  of  the  older  states  of 
the  union.  Some  of  the  minor  streets  are  known  by  the 
names  of  the  letters  of  the  Alphabet ;  and  tracts  of  ground 
were  reserved  for  public  squares.  As  Washington,  how- 
ever, is  chiefly  dependant  on  the  government  for  its  sup- 
port, the  original  scheme  has  been  but  faintly  realized,  and 
many  of  the  streets  have  not  even  been  opened. 

During  the  sessions  of  Congress,  the  place  is  thronged 
with  strangers  from  all  parts  of  the  country  ;  and  the  ses- 
sions of  the  Senate  and  Representatives,  the  proceedings 
of  the  Supreme  Courts  the  Levees  at  the  President's 
House,  the  parties  at  the  foreign  ministers',  &c.  afiford 
ample  opportunities  for  amusements  of  various  kinds.  At 
other  seasons,  however,  there  is  little  to  interest  the 
stranger  except  the  public  buildings  and  the  Navy  Yard. 

The  Capitol 

presents  specimens  of  various  styles  of  architecture. 
On  entering  the  south  wing  several  columns  are  seen, 
where  carvings  of  Indian-corn  stalks  are  substituted  for 
flutings  and  filletings ;  while  the  capitals  are  made  of 
the  ears  of  corn  half  stripped,  and  disposed  so  as  in  some 
degree  to  resemble  the  Corinthian  or  Composite  order. 

The  Representatives*  Chamber  is  a  fine  semicircular 
apartment,  with  columns  of  a  dark  bluish  siliceous  pud- 
ding stone,  hard  and  highly  polished.    It  is  lighted  fron^ 


SUPPLEMENT. 


337 


above.  The  gallery  is  open  during  the  debates,  as  well  as 
that  of  the  Senate  Chamber,  which  is  a  much  smaller 
apartment. 

The  Library  of  Congress  is  in  another  part  of  the  build- 
ing ;  and  the  Great  Hall  contains  the  four  national  pic- 
turesy  painted  for  the  government  by  Col.  Trumbull ;  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  the  Surrenders  at  Saratoga 
and  Yorktown,  and  Washington  resigning  his  Commis- 
sion ;  each  12  feet  by  18. 

A  fine  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  the  Capitol.  You 
look  along  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue  westward  to  the  Pre- 
sident's House,  with  Georgetown  and  the  Potomac  be- 
yond; the  General  Post  Office,  &c.  on  the  right;  the 
Navy  Yard  towards  the  south-east;  Greenleafs  Point 
nearly  south ;  and  south-west  the  bridge  over  the  Poto- 
mac, with  the  road  to  Alexandria  and  Mount  Vernon. 
The  canal  begins  south  of  the  President's  House,  and  ter- 
minates at  the  East  Branch. 

The  President's  House  is  a  large  building  of  white 
marble,  with  Grecian  fronts,  about  a  mile  west  of  the  Ca- 
pitol, and  near  the  public  offices.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall,  but  without  any  other  defence.  The  entrance  hall 
leads  into  the  drawing  room,  where  the  President's  lady 
receives  visiters  at  her  levees.  Two  other  apartments  are 
thrown  open  on  those  occasions  ;  all  handsomely  furnish- 
ed, and  accessible  with  facility,  even  to  strangers. 

The  Patent  Office  is  in  the  same  building  with  the 
General  Post  Office,  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  on  account 
of  the  numerous  curious  models  which  it  contains,  relating 
to  all  branches  of  the  arts. 

The  Treasury,  Navy,  War,  and  Land  Offices,  are  all  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  President's  House ;  as  are  the  resi- 
dences of  the  Foreign  Ministers.  The  members  of  Con- 
gress, as  well  as  the  numerous  strangers  who  resort  hither 
during  the  sessions,  find  lodgings  in  the  hotels  and  board- 
ing houses  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  or  in  Georgetown. 


33S 


SUPPLEMENT. 
GEORGETOWN 


is  &  considerable  place,  which  by  its  proximity  to  Wasli- 
ington,  seems  almost  a  part  of  that  city.  The  country 
around  it  i*  variegated,  and  the  situation  of  the  Catholic 
CoLLEOB,  a  little  way  west,  is  picturesque.  Still  further, 
in  the  same  direction,  there  is  a  very  pleasant  ride  along 
the  bank  of  the  Potomac,  where  Mason's  Island  is  at  first 
seen,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  afterwards  the 
elevated  banks  by  which  the  river  is  bounded.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  road  is  a  Cannon  Foundry. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

This  is  a  large  city  and  port,  six  miles  from  Washing- 
ton, and  contains  some  fine  buildings,  both  public  and 
private.  The  road  which  leads  to  it  is  good,  in  the  plea- 
sant season,  although  the  country  is  little  inhabited,  and 
the  soil  is  impoverished  by  the  cultivation  of  tobacco. 
This  city  is  included  within  the  boundary  of  the  District 
of  Columbia,  and  is  at  so  short  a  distance  from  Washing- 
ton as  to  be  a  favourite  resort,  (during  the  sessions  of 
Congress. 


MOUNT  VERNON, 

the  estate  of  the  Washington  family,  is  nine  miles  south 
from  Alexandria,  and  is  remarkable  as  containing  the  re- 
sidence and  the  tomb  of  Gen.  Washington.  The  road  is 
somewhat  intricate,  and  has  but  few  inhabitants,  so  that 
the  stranger  who  goes  without  a  guide,  will  need  to 
make  careful  inquiries.  The  entrance  of  the  grounds  is 
distinguished  by  a  large  gate,  with  the  lodge  and  dwelling 
of  the  porter.  A  winding  path  conducts  to  the  mansion, 
which  is  seen  but  two  or  three  times  from  a  distance.  The 
rear  of  the  house  is  first  seen,  as  it  stands  on  an  eminence, 
looking  down  upon  the  Potomac.  The  buildings  which 
project  from  each  end,  are  the  offices  and  habitations 
of  the  negroes*    The  house  is  now  the  residence  oi 


SUPPLEMENT. 


33li 


Buflhrod  Washington,  a  judge  of  the  supreme  court  of  the 
U'  S.  and  nephew  of  Gen.  Washington. 

llie  ktj  of  the  Bastille  of  Paris  is  hung  up  in  the  hall ; 
and  a  miniature  portrait  of  Washington,  from  an  earthen 
pitcher,  is  preserved,  which  is  considered  by  the  family, 
the  best  likeness  of  him  ever  made.  A  beautiful  lawn, 
partly  shaded  by  trees,  extends  (torn  the  front  of  the 
mansion  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  which  overhangs 
the  Potomac,  and  afibrda  a  delightful  view  upon  the 
river,  and  a  tract  of  hill>  country  above  and  below. 

This  is  the  place  to  which  Washington  retired  after  he 
had  accomplished  the  independence  of  his  country,  and 
again  when  he  had  presided  at  the  consolidation  of  the 
government:  voluntarily  resigning  the  stations  he  had 
consented  to  accept,  and  the  powtr  he  had  eiercised  only 
for  the  good  of  his  country.  To  an  American,  this  place 
is  interesting,  in  a  degree  which  no  language  can  either 
heighten  or  describe.  Whoever  appreciates  the  value  of 
private  and  social  virtue,  will  rejoice  to  find  it  asso* 
ciated  with  the  traits  of  a  personage  so  distinguished  and 
influential ;  the  consistent  politician  will  rejoic<;  to  reflect, 
that  his  principles  of  natural  freedom  were  not  restricted 
to  any  portion  of  the  world,  or  any  part  of  the  human  race; 
while  any  one,  who  can  duly  estimate  the  extent  of  the 
blessings  he  has  conferred  on  his  country,  and  the  influence 
of  his  actions  on  the  happiness  of  the  world,  will  wish 
that  his  history  may  ever  be  cherished,  as  a  model  of  sin- 
cere and  disinterciited  patriotism. 

Washington's  Tomb 

will  be  found  under  the  shade  of  a  little  grove  of  cedars, 
a  short  distance,  southwards  from  the  bouse,  and  near 
the  brow  of  the  precipitous  shore.  It  is  small,  un- 
adorned, and  neglected.  The  great  man,  who  had  ren- 
dered to  his  country  the  most  important  military  and  civil 
services  she  ever  received,  left  his  mortal  remains  to  be 
deposited  in  this  humble  cemetery :  and  that  couniry  has 
never  yet  expressed  its  gratitude  by  erecting  a  monument 
to  his  memory,  though  to  her  he  devoted  his  life,  and  to 
her  has  bequeathed  a  character,  on  which  no  attempt  has 
ever  yet  been  made  to  discover  a  shadow  or  to  fix  a  stain. 


340 


SUPPLEMEM'. 


...  BALTIMORE. 

The  Indian  Queen  Hotel.  The  City  Hotel  is  an  elegant 
building,  near  the  Washington  monument,  to  be  completed 
in  1826.  It  will  be  one  of  the  largest  and  most  commodious 
public  bouses  in  the  country. 

Baltimore  is  the  third  city,  for  size,  in  the  United 
States,  and  carries  on  an  extensive  commerce.  Various 
projects  have  been  made  for  improving  the  communica- 
tion with  the  interior,  which  is  now  limited.  The  course 
of  the  Susquehannah  has  been  surveyed,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  making  it  mure  useful  in  the  transportation  of 
merchandise.  The  current  is  now  so  swift  and  broken  in 
many  places,  as  to  render  the  passage  often  difficult  and 
hazardous  ;  and  it  is  probable,  that  great  improvements 
may  hereafter  be  effected  by  locks  and  canals.  If  this 
were  once  performed,  and  a  cut  made  from  the  river  to 
Baltimore,  the  city  would  doubtless  derive  great  advan- 
tage from  the  internal  trade. 

The  harbour  of  Baltimore,  in  the  Patapsco  River,  has  a 
narrow  entrance,  and  is  well  protected  by  high  ground. 
On  the  side  opposite  the  city  is  an  abrupt  elevation  of  con- 
siderable size,  where  is  a  fort,  and  whence  a  commanding 
view  is  enjoyed. 

Fell's  Point  is  a  part  of  the  city,  about  a  mile  below, 
where  most  of  the  stores  and  shipping  are  found.  Many 
of  the  streets  of  Baltimore  are  broad,  cross  at  right 
angles,  and  are  ornamented  with  fine  buildings  both 
public  and  private. 

The  Exchange 

is  a  very  spacious  brick  building,  erected  within  a  few 
years. 

The  Washington  Monument. 


This  is  a  large  column  of  marble  placed  in  a  commanil- 
ing  position,  at  the  head  of  Charles-street,  rising  to  the 
height  of  163  feet.    It  is  14  feet  in  diameter  at  the  ton 


StFPLEMJiNT. 


341 


and  2U  below,  with  a  base  23  feet  in  height,  and  60 
square.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  monuments  iix  the  United 
States,  and  the  only  one  worthy  the  memory  of  the  great 
man  to  whom  it  is  erected. 

*  The  Battle  Mokument  * 

was  recently  erected,  in  memory  of  those  who  fell  in  the 
defence  of  the  city  in  September,  1814. 

The  Public  Fountain 

is  a  fine  spring  of  water  in  the  western  part  of  the  city, 
surrounded  by  a  fine  public  square,  laid  out  in  walks  and 
shaded  with  trees.  It  is  ornamented  with  a  neat  little 
building  of  hewn  stone,  and  furnished  with  handsome 
steps.  To  preserve  order  at  this  place  in  warm  weather, 
when  it  is  usually  much  resorted  to,  it  is  the  custom  to 
take  the  right  in  descending  and  retiring. 

The  environs  of  Baltimore  afford  some  pleasant  rides  ; 
and  the  communication  with  different  places  is  easy,  by 
various  modes  of  conveyance.  The  most  agreeable  mode 
of  travelling  to  Philadelphia,  is  by  the  steam  boat  lines, 
which  go  and  arrive  daily,  with  but  a  short  distance  of 
land  carriage.  Steam  boats  also  go  to  Norfolk,  in  Virginia, 
but  the  passage  is  uninteresting  ;  and  those  who  wish  to 
see  Washington)  (33  miles  distant,)  will  go  by  land. 


Hh 


342 


SUPPLEMENT. 


Extracts  from  the  Repwt  of  the  Commissioners  of  the  JV>t«- 
York  Cawd  Fund,  made  in  1826. 

The  canal  fund  has  not  essentially  changed  since  our 
last  annual  report ;  but  the  revenue,  in  almost  every  parti- 
cular, has  for  the  past  year  greatly  exceeded  the  estimate 
which  was  in  that  report  submitted  to  the  legislature. 

The  capital  of  the  canal  fund  is  as  follows : 

The  canals  estimated  at  their  cost $9,267,234  43 

The  lands  given  by  the  Holland  Land  Com- 
pany in  Cattaraugus,  100,632  acres,  es- 
timated at 35,221  20 

The  lands  given  by  John  Hornby  in  the 
county  of  Steuben,  8000  acres,  estimated 
at.. 3,000  00 

The  lands  given  by  Gideon  Granger,  in  the 
county  of  Steuben,  1000  acres,  esti- 
mated at 5,000  00 

The  Onond.  salt  springs  reservation  unsold, 
5,400  acres,  valued  at 26,000  00 

Amount  of  bonds  for  canal  fund  lands  sold       128,435  15 

Amount  of  the  canal  fund  $9,465,890  83 

The  amount  of  revenue  in  the  treasury,  ap- 
plicable to  the  current  expenses  of  th3 
year,  is $226,672  43 

The  revenue  for  the  current  year  is  esti- 
mated as  follows : 

Canal  tolls 700,000 

Vendue  duty 225,000 

Salt  duty 100,000 

Principtd  and  interest  on  bonds  be- 
longing to  the  canal  fund 10,000 

1,035,000  00 

Amount  of  revenue  for  the  current  year    $1,261, 672  43 


SUPPLEMENT.  34S 

The  payments  for  this  amount  during  the 

year  will  be,  for 

Interest  on  the  canal  loans ....  $313,973  55 

Estimated  expense  of  repairing 
the  canals,  and  collecting  tolls!  40,000  00 

Improvements  to  be  made  on  the 
Champlain  Canal 100,000  00 

Damages  estimated  at 50,000  00 

Loan  reimbursable  the  1st  of 
Oct.  1826 270,000  00 

Incidental  expenses  of  the  com- 
missioners of  the  canal  fund, 

estimated  at 400  00 

975,372  65 

Estimated  balance  of  the  revenue  over  the 
estimated  charges  upon  it  for  the  cur- 
rent  year , $286,298  93 


I 


ikPFEnrDzx. 


LIST  OF  STAGE  COACHES. 

Mbanyf  Ballstoni  Saratoga  SpringSj  and  Whilehdl  Coach* 
eSf  leave  Powell  and  Thorp's  General  Mail  Coach  Office, 
No.  365  North  Market-street,  Albany,  every  morning  and 
afternoon  for  Balls  ton  and  Saratoga  Springs,  and  White- 
hall,  (in  connexion  with  the  Champlain  steam  boat,)  every 
Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  mornings,  by  coaches 
to  Fort  Edward,  thence  to  Whitehall  by  canal  packet 
boats,  through  in  one  day — a  steam  boat  leaves  White- 
hall Tuesday  and  Saturday  for  St.  John's,  where  coaches 
are  in  waiting  for  Montreal. 
Proprietors,  Swan,  Thorp  &  Co. 

Distance  from  Albany  to 

Miles.  From  Albany. 

Troy, 6 

Waterford, 6  11 

Mechanicville, 8  19 

Ballston  Springs, ...   14  33 

Saratoga    do., 7  40 

Sandy  Hill, 19 59 

Lake  George, 13  72 


Mhanyf  Geneva^  and  Buffalo  Pilot  Mail  Coach,  leaves 
Powell  &  Thorp's  General  Mail  Coach  Office,  No.  365 
North  Market-street,  Albany,  every  day  at  11  A.  M.  pass- 
es through  Schenectady,  Little  Falls,  Herkimer,  Utica, 
Syracuse,  (salt  works,)  Elbridge,  Auburn,  Geneva,  Canan- 
daigua,  East  and  West  Bloomfield,  Avon,  and  Batavia, 
to  Buffalo,  in  three  days — leaves  Buffalo  at  9  P.  M.  ar- 
rives at  Geneva  the  first  day,  Utica  the  second,  and  Al- 
bany the  third.    Two  daily  lines  of  coaches  pass  and  re- 


,:»■ ,; 


APPENDIX. 


345 


pass  Niagara  Falls  every  day,  one  on  each  side  the  river 
from  Lewiston  and  Buffalo. 

Distance  from  Jilbany  to  Buff  do  and  JVIagara. 

Miles.  From  Albany. 

Schenectady, 15 

Amsterdam, 15 30 

Caughnawaga, 10 40 

Palatine  Bridge, 12 53 

Little  Falls 21  73 

Herkimer, 7  80 

Utica, 16  96 

Vernon,  15 IH 

'   Manlius, 25 136 

Onondago, 10 146 

Auburn, 24 170 

Cayuga  Bridge, 9 179 

Geneva, 13 192 

Canandaigua, 16 208 

Batavia, 48  256 

Buffalo, 40 296 

Niagara  Falls, 21  317 


Albany,  Cherry  Valley,  Cooperstown,  and  Rochester  Mail 
Coach,  leaves  Powell  &  Thorp's  General  Mail  Coach  Of- 
fice, No.  365  North  Market-street,  Albany,  every  day,  for 
Cherry  Valley,  Cooperstown,  Bridgewater,  Madison, 
Cazenovia,  Manlius,  Syracuse,  Weed's  Basin,  Montezu- 
ma, Lyons,  Palmyra,  andPittsford,  to  Rochester — through 
in  three  days,  crosses  the  canal  thirteen  times,  and  re- 
turns in  the  same  order.  A  coach  leaves  Utica  every 
morning,  Sunday  excepted,  for  Denmark  and  Sackett's 
Harbour,  and  from  Denmark  to  Ogdehsburgh,  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday.  Proprietors  of  this  and  the  two 
preceding  lines,  Powell  &  Thorp,  Albany  ;  J.  Parker  & 
Co.  Utica ;  J.  M.  Sherwood,  Auburn ;  J.  Sherwood,  Ge- 
neva ;  B.  D.  Coe,  Canandaigua ;  O.  Adams,  Rochester  ; 
C.  H.  Coe,  Buffalo ;  S.  Barton,  Lewiston  ;  A.  Hovey, 
Montezuma ;  S.  Goodwin,  Madison ;  Wm.  Story,  Cherry 
Vallev. 

Hh  2 


S4G 


APPENDIX. 


Distance  from  Mbany  to 
Miles. 

Guilderland, 14 

State  Bridge, 12 

Cherry  Valley, 26 

Little  Lakes, 10 

Bridgewater, 20 

Madison, 14 

Gazenovia, 12  ........ 

Manliu 12 

Syracuse, 7   

Elbridge, 15 

Weed's  Basin, 6 

Montezuma, 9 

Lyons, 17 

Palmyra, 16 

Pittsford, 15 

Rochester, 8 


From  Albany, 


26 

52 

62 

82 

96 

108 

120 

127 

142 

148 

157 

174 

190 

205 

213 


Distance  from  Canandaigua  to 

Miles.  Canandaigua. 

Rochester, 28 

Clarkson, 18 46 

Lewiston, 60 106 

From  Utica  to  Sacketfs  Harbour, 98  miles. 

do.        Ogdensburgh, 3  20    do. 


Albany  and  Schenectady  Daily  Stage  leaves  Comstock's 
Tavern,  near  the  Canal  Bridge,  State-street,  Schenectady, 
every  morning,  and  leaves  Albany  every  afternoon.  Seats 
taken  in  Albany  at  Peter  Germond's,  Green-street.  Fare, 
(32^  cents.    Proprietor,  D.  Comstock,  Schenectady. 


Albany  and  Montred  Mail  and  Post  Coach  leaves  Alba- 
ny Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  3  A.  M.  and  ar- 
rives in  PouUney  at  6  P.  M. — leaves  Poultney  next  morn- 
ings at  3,  and  arrives  in  Burlington  at  6  P.  M. — leaves 
Burlington  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  3  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  Montreal  same  evenings  at  7 — leaves  Mon- 
treal Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  3  A.  M.  and 


APPENDIX. 


347 


unives  in  Burlington  same  evenings  at  7 — leaves  Burling- 
ton Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  3  A.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Poultney  same  evenings  at  6 — leaves  Poultney 
next  mornings  at  3,  and  arrives  in  Albany  same  evenings 
at  6,  through  Watervliet,  Troy,  Lansingburgfa,  Schaghti- 
coke,  Pittstown,  Cambridge,  Jackson,  Salem,  Hebron, 
Granville,  Wells,  Poultney,  Gastleton,  Hubbardston,  Sud- 
bury, Whiting,  Cornwall,  Middlebury,  New-Haven,  Ver- 
gennes,  Ferrisbui^,  Charlotte,  Shelburn,  Burlington,  Col- 
Chester,  Milton,  Georgia,  St.  Albans,  Swanton,  Missisque 
Bay,  St.  John's,  Laprairie,  to  Montreal— distance  220 
miles. 


•Albany,  Utica,  Geneva,  Rochester,  Buffalo,  and  Lewiston 
JMaU  Coach,  leaves  Powell  &  Thorp*s  General  Mail 
Coach  Office,  No.  365  North  Market-street,  Albany, 
every  day  at  3  P.  M.  travels  by  day  light  only,  lodge  at 
Amsterdam,  and  arrives  in  Utica  next  day,  at  Auburn  the 
second,  passes  Geneva  and  Canandaigua  to  Avon  and  Ro- 
chester the  third,  and  Buffalo  and  Lewiston  the  fourth 
day  from  Albany — returns  in  the  same  order. 

Distance  from  Buffalo  to 

Miles.  From  Buffalo. 

Williamsville, 10  

Clarence, 8 18 

Pembroke, 8 26 

Batavia, 14 40 

Leroy, 11  51 

Caledonia, 6 57 

Avon  Post  Office, 8 65 

Avon  East  Village, ....     2 67 

Lima, 5 72 

West  Bloomfield, 4 76 

East  Bloomfield 5  81 

Canandaigua, 9 90 

Geneva, 16 106 

Waterloo, 7  113 

Seneca  Falls  P.  0 4 117 

EastCayuga 3  120 

Auburn, 9 129 

Skaneateles, 7  •••  136 

Marcellus, 6  142 


V 

I 


:ms 


APPENDIX. 


Onondago  C.  H 8 

JamesTille, 7 

Manlius, 5 

Sullivan, 6 

LenoZi 5 

Oneida, 7 

Vernon, 5 

Manchester, 8 

New  Hartford, .......     5 

Utica,     4 

Little  Falls, 22 

Schenectady, 58 

Albany, 16 


150 
157 
162 
168 
173 
180 
185 
193 
198 
202 
224 
282 
298 


Albany  and  Saratoga  MaU  Stage  leaves  Albany  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  ^^  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Sara- 
toga Springs  at  5  P.  M. — leaves  Saratoga  Springs  Tues- 
day, Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Albany  at  5  P.  M.  through  Troy,  Lansingbui^h,  Water- 
ford,  and  Ballston — distance  36  miles — fare  ^2,  Proprit' 
tor,  Elijah  Castle. 


Mhany^  JV*.  F.  and  Manchester^  Vt,  StagCf  leaves  Albany 
Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  3  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  Manchester  same  evenings — leaves  Manchester  Tues- 
day, Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Albany  same  evenings,  through  Troy,  Lansingburgb, 
Pittstown,  Hoosack,  Bennington,  Shaftsbury,  and  Arling- 
ton.   Fare  $3  25. 


Jilbany  and  Boston  Union  Line  Mail  Stage  leaves  J. 
Rhine's  Stage  House,  No.  12  Beaver-street,  Albany,  at  7, 
and  O.  Babcock's  General  Stage  House,  Troy,  at  8  A.  M. 
Monday,  Wednesday*  and  Friday,  and  arrives  in  Plainfield 
same  evenings  at  5 — leaves  Plainfield  Tuesday,  Thursday, 
and  Saturday,  at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Barre  same  even- 
ings at  5 — leaves  Barre  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday, 
at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston  same  evenings  at  5 — 
leaves  Boyden*s  City  Tavern,  Boston,  Tuesday,  Thurs- 


APPENDIX. 


349 


ilaj,  and  Saturday,  at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Barre  same 
evenings  at  6 — leaves  Barre  Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday,  at  7,  and  arrives  in  Plainfield  same  evenings  at  6 
— leaves  Plainfield  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  7 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Albany  same  evenings  at  5,  through 
Sand  Lake,  Stephentown,  Hancock,  Lanesborough,  Che- 
shire, Savoy,  Plainfield,  Ashfield,  Conway,  Bloody  Brook, 
Sunderland,  Leverett,  Shutesbury,  New-Salem,  Peter- 
sham, Barre,  Hubbardston,  Princeton,  Sterling,  Lancas- 
ter, Bolton,  Stow,  Sudbury,  Concord,  Lincoln,  Weston, 
Waltham,  Watertown,  Cambridge,  to  Boston.  This  line 
intersects  with  the  stages  at  Bloody  Brook  to  Northamp- 
ton, and  at  Sunderland  to  Amherst.  Distance  160  miles 
—fare  17  60. 


Augusta  and  Bangor,  Me,  Meal  Stage,  leaves  Auguita 
Wednesday  and  Saturday,  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Ban- 
gor at  8  P.  M. — leaves  Bangor  Monday  and  Thursday,  at 
4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Augusta  at  S  P.  M.  through  Vas- 
salborough,  Brown's  Corner,  GetchePs  Corner,  Outlet, 
China,  Albion,  Unity,  Joy,  Dizmont,  Newburgh,  and 
Hampden.  Distance  68  miles— fare  $3  50.  Proprietors, 
Moses  Burley  and  Spencer  Arnold. 


Jiugusta  and  Belfast,  Me,  Stage,  leaves  Augusta  every 
Wednesday  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Belfast  at  8  P.  M. 
— leaves  Belfast  every  Thursday  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Augusta  at  8  P.  M.  through  China.  Palermo,  Freedom, 
Montville,  Searsmont,  and  Belmont.  Distance  50  miles 
--fare  $2  50. 


•^ndover  and  Boston  Stage  leaves  Andover  every  morn- 
ing, except  Sundays,  at  6,  and  arrives  in  Boston  at  10  A. 
M. — leaves  Col.  Wilde's,  45  Ann-street,  Boston,  every 
afternoon,  except  Sundays,  at  3,  and  arrives  in  Andover 
at  7  P.  M.    Distance  20  miles— fare  $1, 


350 


APPENDIX. 


Jiugiuta,  Me,  and  WatervUU  Stage,  leares  Augusta  Mon- 
dajr,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  half  past  4  P.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Waterville  at  8— leayes  Waterville  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Au- 
gusta at  half  past  7— Fare  $1.  Owned  by  Maine  Stage 
Company. 


Boston  and  Many  Mail  Stage,  via  Myrthampton,  leaves 
EarIN,  36  Hanover-street,  Boston,  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Northampton  at  7 
P.  M. — leaves  Northampton  next  mornings  at  i,  and  ar- 
rives in  Albany  at  7  P.  M— leaves  E.  Clark's  Office,  526 
South  Market-street,  Albany,  Monday,  Wedoesday,  and 
Friday,  at  3  A-  M.  and  arrives  in  Northampton  at  7  P. 
M. — leaves  Northampton  next  mornings  at  3,  and  arrives 
in  Boston  at  7  P.  M.  through  Framingham,  Worcester, 
Brookfield,  Ware  Factory  Village,  Belchertown,  North- 
ampton, Chesterfield,  Pittsfield,  Lebanon  Springs,  and 
Greenbush,  to  Albany — distance  165  miles.  Fare  from 
Boston  to  Northampton,  $4  50 ;  to  Albany,  $8  75, 


Boston  and  ,Slbany  MaU  Stage,  via  Springfield,  leaves 
Earl's,  36  Hanover-street,  Boston,  Tuesday,  Thursday, 
and  Saturday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Springfield  at 
6  P.  M. — ^leaves  Springfield  Monday,  Wednesday,  and 
Friday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Albany  at  7  P.  M. 
—leaves  E.  Clark's  Office,  526  South  Market- street,  Al- 
bany, Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  2  A.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Springfield  at  7  P.  M. — leaves  Springfield  Mon- 
day, Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Boston  at  7  P.  M.  through  Waltham,  Sudbury,  Marlboro', 
Worcester,  Brookfield,  Palmer,  Springfield,  Westfield, 
Stockbridge,  Greenbush,  to  Albany — distance  165  miles. 
Fare  from  Boston  to  Springfield,  $4  50;  to  Albany, 
$8  75. 


Boston,  Hartford,  and  ^ew'Haven  Middle  LineAccom- 
modation  Stage,  leaves  Earl's,  36  Hanover-street,  Boston, 


APPENDIX. 


3J1 


i^! 


every  day  except  Tuesday,  at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Ash- 
ford  at  6  P.  M. — leaves  Ashford  next  mornings  at  5,  and 
arrives  in  New-Haven  same  evenings  at  6 — leaves  New- 
Haven  every  morning,  except  Tuesday,  stops  in  Ashford 
over  night,  and  arrives  in  Boston  next  evenings  at  6, 
through  Dedham,  Mcdfield,  Mendon,  Thompson,  Pomfret, 
Coventry,  E.  Hartford  on  Meriden  road  to  New- Haven — 
distance  136  miles.  Fare  from  Boston  to  Hartford, 
$5  50 ;  to  New- Haven,  $7  50. 


Boston  and  »Slhany  »iccommodation  Stage,  by  Worcester, 
Amherst,  Northampton,  Pittsfield,  and  Lebanon  Springs, 
and  by  Worcester,  Southbridge,  and  Springfield,  to  Alba- 
ny, leaves  Boston  and  £.  Clark's  office,  626  South  Mar- 
ket-street, Albany,  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Satur- 
day, at  2  A.  M.,  and  arrives  in  Northampton  and  Spring- 
field at  8  same  evenings — leaves  Northampton  and  Spring- 
field for  Boston  and  Albany  every  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston  and  Albany 
at  8  same  evenings.  At  Northampton  and  Springfield, 
this  line  intersects  the  stage  passing  up  and  down  the 
river,  and  likewise  intersects  the  line  of  stages  from  Pro- 
vidence through  Thompson  to  Albany  at  Southbridge.  A 
stage  also  passes  from  Greenwich  Village  through  Prescott 
and  Pelham,  intersecting  at  Amherst,  passing  the  manu- 
facturing establishments  in  Leicester,  Charlton,  South- 
bridge,  Brimficld  and  Monson,  through  New  Braintee, 
Hardwicke,  Greenwich,  and  Enfield,  by  Amherst  College 
and  Hadley  Academy,  through  Northampton,  Chesterfield, 
Pittsfield,  Greenbush,  to  Albany.  Fare  from  Boston  to 
Worcester,  $2 ;  to  Southbridge,  $3 ;  to  Northampton, 
$4  50 ;  to  Albany,  |8  75.  Book.^  kept  in  Boston  at 
EarPs,  Hanover-street,  and  Wildes  &  Hosmer's,  Elm-^ 
street ;  in  Worcester  at  C.  StockwclPs  ;  in  Northampton 
at  Warner's ;  and  in  Albany  at  E.  Clark's  office. 


Boston  and  Albany  Mail  Stage,  via  Brattleboro',  Vt, 
leaves  Brigham's,  42  Hanover-street,  Boston,  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Brat- 
tleboro' same  evenings  at  9 — leaves  Brattleboro*  next 


352 


APPENDIX. 


mornings  at  2,  and  arrives  in  Albany  at  9  P.  M. — leaves 
Albany  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  3  A.  M.  an) 
arrives  in  Brattleboro'  same  evenings  at  9 — leaves  Brat 
tleboro*  next  morning  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston 
same  evenings  at  9,  through  Cambridge,  Waltham,  Stow, 
Bolton,  Lancaster,  Leominster,  Fitchburg,  Westminster, 
Temple  ton,  Athol,  Orange,  Winchester,  Hinsdale,  WiU 
mington,  Bennington,  and  Troy>  A  branch  of  this  line 
leaves  Athol  same  hours  for  Albany,  through  Greenfield, 
Williamstown*  Adams,  and  Hancock,  and  arrives  in  Alba- 
ny same  time,  and  intersects  at  Athol. 


Boston  and  Jilbany  Despatch  and  Phanix  Line  of  Stt^es^ 
via  Greenjield,  leaves  Riley's,  N?.  9  Elm-street,  Boston, 
Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  Greenfield  at  half  past  7  same  evenings — ^leaves  Green- 
field Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  and  arrives  in 
Albany  same  days — leaves  Albany  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday,  and  arrives  in  Greenfield  same  days — leaves 
Greenfield  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  4  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  Boston  at  half  past  7  same  evenings,  inter- 
secting  the  Providence,  Worcester,  and  Keene  line,  at 
Hubbardston — through  Watertown,  Waltham,  Lincoln, 
Stow,  Bolton,  Lancaster,  Sterling,  Princeton,  Hubbards- 
ton, Petersham,  Neiv-Salem,  Shutesbury,  Wendall,  Mon- 
tague, Greenfield,  Glaremont,  Adams,  Williamstowu, 
Hancock,  Stephentown,  Sand  Lake  to  Albany.  Fare 
from  Boston  to  Greenfield,  $3  75 ;  to  Albany,  ^7  75. 


Bostmif  Keene,  Walpole,  Charlestown,  Windsor,  and 
Hanover  Jtccommodation  Stage,  leaves  Brigham's,  42  Ha* 
nover-street,  Boston,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday, 
at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Keene  same  evenings  at  7— 
leaves  Keene  next  mornings  at  5,  and  arrives  in  Hanover 
same  evenings  at  6 — leaves  Hanover  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Friday,  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Keene  same 
evening  at  6 — leaves  Keene  next  mornings  at  4,  and  ar- 
rives in  Boston  same  evenings  at  7,  through  Concord  and 
Westford  on  Monday,  and  returns  on  Thursday,  through 
Groton,  Ashby,  Rindge,  and  Fitzwilliam — distance  14(* 


APPENDIX. 


■iio 


luilei.  Fare  from  Boston  to  Ashby,  $2  50 ;  to  RindgCj 
^3  25  ;  to  Fitzwilliam,  $3  50  ;  to  Keene,  $4 ;  to  Charles- 
town,  95  50 ;  to  Windsor,  $6 ;  to  Hanover,  96  50. 


Boston^  Keene,  Wdpoltt  Rutland,  and  Burlington,  Vt. 
Mail  Stage,  leaves  Brigham's,  42  Hanover-street,  Boston, 
Sunday,  Tuesday,  and  Thursday,  at  4  A.  M  and  arrives 
atKeene  at  7  same  evenings — leaves  Keene  next  mornings 
at  5,  and  arrives  in  Rutland  same  evenings  at  7 — leaves 
Rutland  next  mornings  at  5,  and  arrives  in  Burlington 
same  evenings  at  5 — leaves  Burlingt>ii  Monda>,  Wed- 
nesday, and  Friday,  at  5  Ar  M  and  arrives  in  Rutland 
same  evenings  at  6 — leaves  Rutland  next  mornings  at  5, 
and  arrives  in  Keene  same  evenings  at  6— leaves  Keene 
next  mornings  at  4,  and  arrives  in  Boston  same  evenings 
at  7,  through  Concord,  Groton,  New  Ipswich,  Jeffrey, 
Chester,  Mount  Holley,  Brandon,  Middlebury,  Ver- 
genne .,  and  Charlotte — distance  210  miles.  Fare  from 
Boston  to  Concord,  $1 ;  to  Groton,  $2 ',  to  New  Ipswich, 
$2  50  ;  to  Jeffrey,  $3  25 ;  to  Kerne,  $4 ;  to  Walpole, 
$4  75  ;  to  Chester,  ^^  j  75 ;  to  Mount  Holley,  $6  75  ; 
to  Rutland,  $7  75 ;  to  Brandon,  $8  75 ;  to  Middlebury, 
99  75  j  to  Burlington,  ^11  25. 


'! 


Boston,  •Smherst,  Windsor,  and  Burlington,  Vt.  Mail 
Stage,  leaves  Boyden^s  (City  Tavern,)  Boston,  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  5  A.  M  and  arrive>4  in  Fran- 
cestown  same  evenings  at  6 — leaves  Francestown  next 
mornings  at  4,  and  arrives  in  Windsor  at  12,  noon,  and  in 
Royalton  same  evenings — leaves  Royaltoii  next  mornings 
at  4,  and  arrives  in  Burlington  at  4  P.  M. — from  thence 
to  Montreal  and  Qu^'bec — leaves  Burlington  three  times  a 
week,  and  arrives  in  Francestown  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday  evenings— leaves  Francestown  next  mornings 
at  4,  and  arrives  in  Boston  at  3  P.  M.  through  Charles- 
town,  Medford,  Chelmsford,  W.  Parish,  Nashua  Village, 
Hillsborough,  Washington,  Newport,  Uartland,  Wood- 
stock, over  Gulf  Road  to  Montpelier — distance  212  miles. 
Fare  from  Boston  to  Windsor,  $6 ;  to  Burlington;  319.. 

I  i 


351 


APPENDIX. 


Bostorif  Portsmoutht  JV*.  H.  and  Portland  JJccummodalion 
Stage,  leaves  colonel  Wildes' 45  Arin>stree(|  Boston,  every 
morning,  excepl  Sundays,  at  8,  and  arrives  in  Newbury- 
port  at  1  P.  M.  to  dine,  and  in  Portsmouth,  at  5 — leaves 
Portsmouth  next  morning  at  8,  (on  lower  road)  through 
Kittery,  York,  Wells,  Kennebunk,  Biddeford,  Saco,  and 
Scarborough,  and  arrives  in  Portland  at  5  P.  M. — leaves 
Portland  every  morning  except  Sundays,  at  8,  on  same 
road,  and  arrives  in  Portsmouth,  at  5  P.  M.— leaves  Ports- 
mouth next  morning  at  9,  and  arrives  in  Boston  at  6  P. 
M. — distance,  to  Newburyport,  38  miles — fare  $2,00 ;  to 
Portsmouth,  62  miles,  $3,00;  to  Portland.  120  miles, 
$6,00. 


Boston  and  Providence  Citizens*  Coach,  leaves  Boston 
every  morning  at  half  past  7  and  arrives  in  Providence  to 
dine — leaves  Providence  every  morning  at  half  past  7  and 
arrives  in  Boston  to  dine. — On  steam  boat  diys,  Tues- 
day, Thursday,  and  Saturday,  the  proprietors  convey  all 
passengers  who  wish  to  take  passage  in  the  steam  boats 
for  New- York — they  also  have  carriages  in  readiness  to 
take  passengers  who  may  arrive  at  Providence  in  the 
steam  boats,  to  Boston — extra  coaches  furnished  at  any 
time  at  short  notice — books  kept  at  Boyden's  city  tavern, 
Exchange  Coffee  House,  Marlboro'  Hotel,  Commercial 
Coffee  House,  Lafayette  Hotel,  Wildes  and  Hosmer's, 
Elm- street,  and  Shephard's,  Bloomfield  Lane,  Boston  i 
and  at  Blake's  Hotel,  Providence — distance  40  miles — fare 
$2 — t^gents,  A.  Fuller,  Boston ;  D.  Borden,  Providence. 


Boston,  Walpole,  Wrentham,  and  Providsncef  R.  I. 
Stage,  leaves  Boston  and  Providence  every  morning  except 
Sundays,  at  5 — from  Providence  Monday,  Wednesday, 
Tuesday,  and  Friday — from  Boston,  Thursday  and  Satur- 
day, through  Walpole  and  Wrentham — from  Boston,  Mon- 
day, Wednesday,  and  Friday — and  from  Providence,  Tues- 
day, Thursday,  aad  Saturday,  over  the  turnpike.  Distance 
40  miles— fare  H  50.  Books  kept  at  Blake's  Franklin  Ho- 
tel, Providence,  and  at  Cobb's  Marlboro'  Hotel,  Boston, 
dgents,  A.  Fuller,  Boston,  and  D.  Borden,  Providence- 


APPENDIX. 


35;'. 


ioUalion 
» every 
iwbury- 
-leaves 
brough 


Boston  and  Ptovidence  Ji^eto  Line  of  Coaches,  leaves 
Boston  and  Providence  every  morning  at  half  past  7,  and 
arrives  in  each  place  to  dine — Tuesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday,  runs  to  meet  the  steam  boats  that  leave  Provi- 
dence the  same  afternoons  for  New- York,  aid  will  be 
in  readiness  to  take  passengers  to  Boston  on  their  arrival 
at  Providence — distance  40  miles — fare  $2 — books  kept  in 
Boston  at  Brigham's,  42  Hanover- street ;  in  Providence 
at  Horton's  Hotel,  Manufacturers*  Hotel  and  at  Wesson's 
Coffee  House  ;  in  Paw  tucket  at  Jenkes'  Hotel — Agents, 
William  Norton,  Boston  ;  Joel  Blaidsell,  Providence. 

Boston  and  Burlington  Mail  Pilot  Utage,  leaves  Jacob 
Barnard's  stage  office.  No.  9  Elm-Street,  Boston,  Mon- 
day, Wednesday  and  Friday,  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Concord  at  6  P.  M. — leaves  Concord  next  morningi  at  4 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Royalton,  Vt.  at  7  P.  M. — leaves  Roy- 
alton,  Wednesday,  Friday  and  Sunday,  and  arrives  in 
Burlington  at  4  P.  M. — leaves  Burlington,  Tuesday, 
Thursday  and  Saturday,  and  arrives  in  Royalton  at  7  P. 
M. — leaves  Royalton,  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday  at 
4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Concord  at  5  P.  M. — leaves  Con- 
cord, Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday  at  4  A.  M.  and  ar- 
rives in  Boston  at  5  P.  M.  through  Charlestown,  Medford, 
Stoneham,  Reading,  Andover,  Methuen,  New-Salem, 
Londonderry,  Chester,  Hookset,  Bow,  Boscawen,  Salis- 
bury, New-Andover,  Wilmont,  Springfield,  Enfield,  Le- 
banon, Hanover,  Hartford,  Sharon,  Randolph,  Brookfield, 
Williamstown,  Barre,  Montpelier,  Middlesex,  Moretown, 
Waterbury,  Bolton,  Richmond,  Williston  to  Burlington — 
distance  210  miles — fare  $12. 


Boston,  Haverhill,  and  Concord,  JV*.  H,  Stage,  leaves 
Jacob  Barnard's  stage  office.  No.  9  Elm-street.  Boston, 
Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  Concord  at  5  P.  M.  where  it  connects  with  the 
Pilot  line  for  Burlington  and  Montreal— leaves  Con- 
cord, Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday  at  4  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  Boston  at  5  P.  M.  through  Charlestownj 
Medford,  Stoneham,  Reading,  Andover,  Bradford,  Ha- 
verhill, Ms.,  Atkinson,  Hampstcad,  Chester,  Candia  to 


li 


356 


appendix; 


Concord — distanee    63    miles — fare  $3  SO—Propriefars- 
nSgent,  Hiram  Plummer,  Ha?erhill. 


Earl'», 


Boston  and  Worcester  ^ccommodaHon  Stage,  leaves  H. 

w\\  36  Hanover'Street,  Boston,  Monday,  Wednesday 
and  Friday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Worcester  at  3  P. 
M, — leaves  Worcester,  Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday 
at  9  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston  at  4  P.  M.  through  Water- 
town,  Waltham,  Weston,  Sudimry,  Marlborough,  North- 
bridge,  Shrewsbury  to  Worcester — distance  &  miles- 
fare  ^2— Proprietors,  H.  Earl,  and  S.  Burt. 


Boston,  Bolton,  Lancaster  and  Princeton  Jieeommodation 
Stage,,  leaves  Boyden's  city  tavern,  and  Brigham's,  ^  !ano- 
ver-street,  Boston,  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday  at  7 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Princeton  at  5  P.  M.-*-(see  Wachusett 
Hills,)  leaves  Princeton,  Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday 
at  6  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston  at  2  P.  M.  through  Cam- 
bridge, Watertown,  Waltham,  Weston,  Lincoln,  Sudbury, 
Stow,  Bolton,  Lancaster,  Sterling  to  Princeton-— distance 
47  miles— Propneeor5,  Holman,  Cowe  &  Co.  Bolton; 
James  Barnard  &  Co.  Boston. 


Brunsvjtck  and  Wiseasset,  Me.  Stage,  leaves  Brunswick 
every  day  at  10  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Wiscasset  at  2  P. 
M.  leaves  Wiscasset  every  day  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  Brunswick  same  days,  through  Bath— owned  by  Maine 
Stage  Company. 


Buffalo  and  Erie  J\IaU  Stage,  leaves  the  Mansion  Housci 
Buffalo,  every  morning  at  4,  and  Erie  every  morning  at 
the  same  hour. 


Catskitt  and  Ithaca,  A**  F.  J^ail  and  Post  Coach  Line — 
N.  Steel  &  Co.'s  line  leaves  Catskill,  Sunday  and  Thurs- 
day at  6  A.  M.  through  Cairo,  Windham,  Rozbury,  Stam- 
ford, Kortright,  Delhi,  Merideth,  Franklin,  Unadilla,  Ox» 


APPENDIX. 


357 


ford,  Greene,  Lisle,  &c.  to  Ithaca — the  stages  meet  in 
Delhi  first  evening  and  in  Greene  second  evening. — H. 
Watkins  &  Co.'s  leaves  Catskill,  Tuesday  and  Friday  at  6 
A.  M.  through  Cairo,  New-Durham,  Broome,  Blenheim, 
Stamford,  Harpersfield,  Meridetb,  Franklin,  Sidney,  Una- 
dilla,  Bainbridge,  Greene,  &c.  to  Ithaca — this  line  meets 
the  western  stages  at  Harpersfield  first  evening  and  at 
Greene  second  evening. — Coaches  leave  Ithaca,  Sunday, 
Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Friday  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrive  in 
Catskill  in  time  for  the  steam  boat  on  the  third  day — fare 
4  cts.  per  mile — seats  taken  in  Catskill  at  CroswelKs  and 
Donnelly's  ;  in  Ithaca  at  Spencer's,  and  at  the  interme- 
diate stage  houses. — A  stage  leaves  Harpersfield  every 
Monday  for  Albany,  and  leaves  Albany  every  Wednesday 
for  Harpersfield ;  N.  Steel  &  Co.'s  line  intersects  it,  and 
also  intersects  the  Utica  and  Binghamton  lines  at  Oxford 
— Proprietors,  H.  Watkins  &  Co.  and  N.  Steel  &  Co. 


Conway,  J^.  IJ.  and  Portlandf  Me.  Stage,  leaves  Con- 
way, Monday  and  Thursday  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Portland  at  5  P^  M. — leaves  Portland,  Wednesday  and 
Saturday  at  7  A.  M,  and  arrives  in  Conway  at  7  P.  M. 
through  Fryeburg,  Baldwin,  Standish  and  Gorham — fare 
$2  50 — owned  by  White  Mountain  Stage  Company. 


Conway^  JV,  IJ,  and  Lancaster,  JV*.  H.  Stage,  leaves  Con- 
way, Thursday  and  Sunday  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Lancaster  same  days — leaves  Lancaster,  Friday  and  Wed- 
nesday and  arrives  in  Conway  same  days,  passing  througli 
the  notch  of  the  White  Mountains  each  way — fare  $2,50 
— owned  by  the  White  Mountain  Stage  Company. 


Dover  and  Portsmouth,  JV.  H»  Stage,  leaves  Dover  every 
day,  except  Sundays,  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Ports- 
mouth at  10 — leaves  Portsmouth  every  day,  except  Sun- 
days, at  5  P.  M.  and  arrives  in  Dover  at  7,  through  New- 
ington— distance  12  miles— fare  62i  cts.-— Proprietors' 
^is'ent.  Simeon  Wingate. 


I  i  2 


353 


APPENDIX. 


Dudley  and  Boston  *QeeommodaHon  Stage,  by  Worcester, 
Ward,  Millbury,  Sutton  and  Oxford,  leaves  Boston  every 
Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday,  at  2  A.  M.  and  Wor- 
cester at  10  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Dudley  same  day — leaves 
Dudley  for  Worcester  and  Boston,  every  Monday,  Wed- 
nesday and  Friday,  at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Worcester, 
at  12,  and  at  Boston  at  8,  same  evening,  and  passes  the 
Manuf^^cturing  Establishments  in  Oxford  and  Dudley — on 
Monday,  Tuesday,  Friday  and  Saturday,  on  its  way 
through  Oxford,  passes  the  Manufacturing  Establishments 
of  Leffingwell,  Preston  &  Co.  the  Mineral  Springs  of 
Major  Joseph  Lamb  on  Wednesdays  and  Thursdays  by 
the  way  of  Millbury  and  Sutton — (all  baggage  at  the  risk 
of  the  owners)  seats  in  Boston,  taken  at  Wildes  and  Hos- 
mer's.  Elm-street. 


Eastern  J^ail  Stage,  leaves  Wildes',  45  Ann-street, 
Boston,  every  morning,  at  2,  through  Salem,  Ipswich, 
Newbury  port,  and  arrives  ir»  Portsmouth  at  10  A.  M.  and 
in  Portland  at  8  same  evening — leaves  Portland  every 
morning  at  4,  and  arrives  in  Portsmouth  at  half  past  12, 
noon,  and  in  Boston  at  9  same  evening — distance  to  New- 
buryport  3S  miles — fare  $2  50  ;  to  Portsmouth  62  miles 
$4 ;  to  Portland  120  miles  $8 — Agents,  Col.  Jeremiah 
Colman,  Newburyport,  and  A.  Rice,  Portsmouth. 


Hartford  and  Providence  Mail  Stage,  leaves  Hartford, 
Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday  mornings,  on  the  arriv&l 
of  the  southern  mail,  and  arrives  in  Providence,  same 
evenings — leaves  Providence,  Tuesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday  at  9  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Hartford  same  eve- 
nings, through  East- Hartford,  Manchester,  Bolton,  Co- 
ventry, Mansfield,  Ashford,  Pomfret,  Killingly,  Foster, 
Gloucester,  Scituate  and  Johnstown---di8tance  70  miles 
— fare  $4  37 — Proprietors,  James  Goodwin,  jr.  Hartford ; 
E.  Pomroy,  Coventry ;  D.  Clark,  Ashford ;  D.  Cornel, 
Gloucester. 


APPENDIX. 


35U 


Hartford  nnd  lAtchfieldf  Conn,  Mail  Coach,  leayes  Mor- 
gan's Coffee  House,  Hartford,  Monday,  Wednesday  and 
Friday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Litchfield  at  3  P.  M. — 
leaves  Litchfield,  Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday  at  8 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Hartford  at  3  P.  M.  through  Far- 
minglon,  Burliqgtun  and  Harwinton  to  Litchfield — fare 
$2 — Proprietor f  Josiah  Parks. 


Hartford  and  Jfew-Haven,  Conn.  Steam  Boat  Stages, 
leave  Morgan's  Coffee  House,  Hartford,  every  day  at  10 
A.  M. ;  on  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Friday,  via.  Berlin, 
Meriden  and  Wallingford,  and  on  Tuesday,  Thursday  and 
Saturday,  via.  Fannington,  Southington  and  Cheshire, 
and  arrive  in  New- Haven  in  time  to  take  the  steam  boats 
and  ■tag:es  for  New-York — leave  New-Haven  on  the  ar- 
^  vai  of  the  steam  boats  from  New- York  and  arrive  in 
?  ''t*'ord  in  time  to  take  the  stages  that  leave  there  each 
U»v"  m  the  week — distance  40  miles — fare  $2 — Proprietors, 
James  Rose  &  Co.  Hartford ;  and  John  Babcock,  junr. 
New-Haven. 


Hartford,  Connecticut  and  Mbany,  .Y.  F.  MaU  Stage, 
leaves  Morgan's  Coffee  House,  Hartford,  Monday,  Wed- 
nesday and  Friday  at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Albany  same 
evenings  at  8— leaves  £.  Clark's  office,  No.  526,  South 
Market-street,  Albany,  Tuesday,  Thursday  and  Saturday 
at  2  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Hartford  same  evenings  at  8 
through  New- Hartford,  Norfolk,  Sheffield,  West  Stock- 
bridge  and  Chatham,  to  Albany — distance  from  Albany  to 
Chatham  15  miles;  to  West  Stockbridge  30  miles;  to 
Sheffield  46  miles  ;  to  Norfolk  60  miles  ;  to  New-Hart- 
ford 76  miles ;  to  Hartford  96  miles— fare  $5— Proprie- 
tors, Aaron  French,  T.  Whitlock,  Aaron  Hosmer,  Calvin 
Forbes,  Moses  Forbes  and  Samuel  P.  Patterson. 


Hartford  and  JfeW'Haven,  Con,  Jiccommodation  Stage, 
leaves  Morgan's  Coffee  House,  Hartford,  Monday,  Wed- 
nesday and  Friday  at  U  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  New-Ha- 
ven at  6  P.  M.— leaves  New-Haven,  Tuesday,  Thursday, 


360 


APPENDIX. 


flnd  Saturday  at  8  A.  M .  and  arrives  in  Hartford  nt  :> 
P.  M.  through  Weathersfield,  Rocky  Hill,  Middletown 
U.  H.  Middletown,  Durham,  and  Northford — distance  40 
miles— fare  $2 — extra  stages  and  coaches  furnished,  on 
ishort  notice,  at  all  times — Proprietors,  James  Rose  &  Co. 
Hartford ;  and  John  Babcock,  jr.  New-H^ven. 

Hartford,  C(mn,  and  Hanover,  J^,  H.  Mail  Stages,  (on 
east  side  of  Connecticut  River)  leave  Hartford  and  Ha- 
nover Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  5  A.  M .  and 
arrive  in  Hinsdale  same  evening — leave  Hinsdale  Tuesday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday  mornings  and  arrive  in  Hart- 
ford and  Hanover  same  evenings;  intersecting  the  Boston 
and  Brattleboro'  line  at  Hinsdale — the  Boston,  Keene, 
and  Walpole  line,  and  all  th^  lines  from  Albany  to  Boston 
in  the  distance  of  the  route.  Distance  from  Hartford  to 
Hanover,  152  miles — fare  $7  25. — Proprietors,  Robert 
M.  Abbe  &  Co.  £.  Graves  &  Co.  Skinner  &  Marsh. 


Lewistown  and  Rochester,  JV.  Y.  J\IaU  Stage,  leaves 
Lewiston  every  morning  at  4  P.  M.  and  arrives  at  Ro- 
chester at  7  same  evening — passes  through  the  villages  of 
Hartland,  Ridgway,  Oak  Orchard,  Gaines,  Sandy  Creek, 
Clarkson,  and  Parma — leaves  Rochester  at  4  A.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Lewiston  at  7  P.  M. — distance  80  miles — fare 
$3  50 — extras  are  all  times  furnished  either  at  Rochester 
or  Lewiston. — Proprietors,  Samuel  Barton,  Lewiston; 
Orry  Adams,  Rochester. 


J^Torthampton,  Mass.  and  Hartford,  Conn.  Enterprise 
^tage,  via  Westfield  and  Connecticut  State  Prison,  leaves 
Curtis's,  Northampton,  every  Monday  morning  at  2  and 
arrives  at  Hartford  in  time  to  take  the  steam  boat  Oliver 
Ellsworth  for  New-York ;  and  on  Wednesday  and  Friday 
mornings  leaves  same  place  at  8  and  arrives  in  Hartford 
at  2  P.  M.— leaves  Hartford,  Tuesday,  and  Thursday  at  8 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Northampton  at  2  P.  M.  on  Satur- 
days leaves  Hartford  on  the  arrival  of  the  steam  boat  and 
arrives  at  Northampton  in  six  liours— fare  from  North- 


APPENDIX. 


3fil 


ampton  to  Hartford  $2,25 — Proprietors  J.  Curtis  &  Co. 
Northompton,  and  B.  Merwin  &  Co.  Westfield.       > 


JV*e  ^•London  and  Hartford,  Conn,  Stage,  leaves  New- 
London,  Tuesday  and  Thursday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Hartford  at  6  P.  M.— leaves  Morgan's  Coffee  House, 
Hartford,  Wednesday  and  Friday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  New-London  at  5  P.  M.  through  Waterford,  Montville, 
Salem,  Colchester,  Hebron,  Marlboro',  Glastenbury,  and 
East  Hartford— distance  47  miles— fare  $3 — Proprietors, 
Elias  W.  Newton,  Colchester,  and  Horatio  G.  Broom, 
New-London. 


^ew-York  and  Easton  Mail  Stage,  leaves  New-York 
Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  6  A.  M.  and  arrives 
at  Caston,  same  evenings  at  7 — leaves  Easton,  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday  mornings,  and  arrives  in  New* 
York  at  5  P.  M  through  Elizabethtown,  Springfield, 
Chatham,  Bottlehill,  Morristown,  Mendham,  Chester  by 
the  Schoolies  Mountain  Springs,  Anderson,  Washington 
to  Easton — distance  70  miles— fare  $3 — Proprietorg, 
James  Anderson,  Benjamin  C.  Chamberlin,  and  John 
Drake. 


J^eW'Haven,  Litchfield,  Ctmn»  and  Jllbany  JV*.  Y.  Mail 
Coach,  leaves  New-Haven,  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Sa-^ 
turday  at  8  A-  M.  and  arrives  in  Litchfield  at  3  P.  M. — 
leaves  Litchfield  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  J'riday  at  5  A. 
M.  and  arrives  in  Albany  same  evenings-heaves  Albany 
Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  2  A*  M.  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Albany  stages  and  arrives  in  Litchfield  at  5 
P.  M. — leaves  Litchfield  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Fri- 
day at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  New-Haven  at  2  P.  M. 
through  Waterbury,  Watertown,  East  Goshen,  Norfolk, 
Canaan,  Sheffield,  Great  Barrington,  West  Stockbridge, 
Chatham,,  Nassau,  Schodac  and  Greenbush  to  Albany — 
fare  from  Litchfield  to  Albany  $4 — Books  kept  at  Morse's 
General  Stage  Office  and  Bishop's  Hotel,  Church-street, 


i 


3(J'2 


APPENDIX. 


Neiv-Hayen— -at  the  public  houses  in  Litchfield,  and  at 
£.  Clark's  Stage  Office,  South  Market-street,  Albany— 
ProprietorSf  John  W.  Harris,  New-Haven  ;  J.  Parks, 
Litchfield  ;  A.  Hosmer,  C.  Forbes,  M.  Forbes,  and  S.  P. 
Patterson. 


^ewburgh  and  Ithaca,  JV*.  F<  J^ail  Stage ,  leaves  New 
burgh  Sunday,  Tuesday,  and  Thursday,  at  6  A.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Ithaca,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 
evenings,  through  Monticello,  Gocheco,  Damascus, 
Mount  Pleasant,  New-Milford,  crosses  the  Susquehannah 
River,  through  Chenango  Point  and  Oswego  to  Ithaca — 
ProprietorSf  James  Crawford,  Newburgh;  J.  Baird^ 
Bloomingburgh ;  E.  Hathaway,  Monticello;  J.  Molt, 
New-Milford. 


Norwich  and  Hartford,  Conn.  Mail  Coach,  leaves  Kin- 
ney's hotel,  Norwich,  every  Tuesday  at  8  A.  M.  and 
atxives  in  Hartford  at  5  P.  M. — leaves  Morgan's  Cofiee 
House,  Hartford,  every  Wednesday  at  7  A*  M.  and  ar'> 
rives  in  Norwich  at  5  P.  M.  through  Chelsea,  Bozrah, 
Franklin,  Lebanon,  Windham,  Columbia,  Coventry, 
(Andover  parish)  Bolton,  Manchester,  and  East  Hartford 
— distance  40  miles— fare  $2.50 — Proprietors,  N.  Kinney, 
Norwich ;  R.  S.  White,  Bolton ;  and  Jabez  Loomis. 


Norwich  and  Hartford,  Conn,  Stage,  leaves  Norwich 
(Chelsea  Landing)  every  Thursday  at  9  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  Hartford  at  6  P.  M. — leaves  Morgan's  Coffee  House, 
Hartford,  every  Friday  at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Norwich 
at  5  P.  M.  through  Norwichtown,  Bozrah,  Bozraville, 
Colchester,  Hebron,  Marlborough,  Glastenbury,  and 
East  Hartford— distance  40  miles— fare  $2  50. 


Providence,  Bristol,  and  Kewport,  R,  I.  Mail  Stage, 
leaves  Providence  every  day,  except  Sundays,  at  9  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  Bristol  at  ll,  and  in  Newport  at  4  P.  M. 
—leaves  Newport  every  day,  except  Sundays,  at  9  A.  M. 


and  at 
Ibany— 

Parks, 
hd  S.  P. 


APPENDIX. 


'Hi3 


and  arrives  in  Providence  at  4  P.  M. — distance  from  Pro- 
vidence to  Bristol  15  miles,  to  Newport  30 — fare  from 
Providence  to  Bristol  $1,  to  Newport  $1 43. 


Portsmouth  and  Concordf  lAT.  H,  MaU  Stage,  leaves 
Portsmouth  Monday,^Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  8  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  Concord  at  5  P.  M. — leaves  Concord  Tues- 
day, Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  6  A.  M.  and  arrives  ia 
Portsmouth  at  3  P.  M. — through  Greenland,  Stratham, 
Exeter,  Epping,  Deerfield,  AUenstown,  and  Pembroke,  to 
Concord — distance,  50  miles — fare,  $2,50, — A  branch 
from  the  Mail  Stage  intersects  the  Portsmouth  and  Con- 
cord Mail  Stage  at  Exeter  and  at  Hampton  Falls — fare 
from  Newburypo  to  Concord,  $2  50. — ,Sgent  Daniel 
Storey,  Portsmouth. 


Providence  R,  I.  and  Norwich,  Conn.  J\IaU  Stage,  leaves 
Providence  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  at  half  past 
2  P.  M.  and  arrives  in  Norwich  at  10  same  evening? — 
leaves  Norwich  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  at  12 
noon,  and  arrives  in  Providence  at  half  past  seven  same 
evenings — through  OIneyville,  Scituate,  Foster,  Coventry, 
Sterling,  Plainfield,  and  Jewett  city  to  Norwich.  This 
line  is  connected  with  the  Boston,  Taunton,  New-Haven 
and  Hartford  mail  lines,  so  that  passengers  can  take  seats 
for  either  of  those  routes. — Books  kept  at  Blake's  Frank- 
lin House,  Providence,  and  at  Kinney's  Hotel,  Norwich 
— fare  $3. — *Sgents,  N.  Manchester  and  A.  Fry. 


Plymouth  and  Boston  Accommodation  Stage,  leaves 
Plymouth,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  mornings 
and  arrives  in  Boston  to  dine — leave  Boyden's  city  tavern, 
Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  at  11  A.  M.  and  ar- 
rives in  Plymouth  same  afternoon,  through  Kingston, 
Dusbury,  Pembroke,  Hanover,  Scituate,  Weymouth, 
Quincy,  and  Dorchester — fare  through,  $1  50. 


r 

Plymouth  and  Boston  Accommodation  stage,  (twice  a 


m 


364 


APPENDIX. 


week)  leaves  Plymouthi  Tuesday  and  Thursday  at  J  p&bt 
6  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston  to  dine — leaves  Boston, 
Wednesday  and  Friday,  at  1 1  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Ply. 
mouth  same  evening,  through  Kingston,  Hanover,  Abi'ng* 
ton,  Weymouth,  Quincy,  and  Dorchester — distance  38 
miles — fare  $1  50 — books  kept  at  Wildes  &  Hosmer's, 
Elm-street,  Boston,  and  old  colony  hotel,  Plymouth* 


Pli^nouth  and  Boston  »Sccommodation  StagCj  leaves  Ply- 
mouth, Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  half  past  6, 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Boston  to  dine — leaves  Boston, 
Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday,  at  11  A.  M  and  ar- 
rives  in  Plymouth  same  evenings,  through  Kingston, 
Terabroke,  Hanover,  Scituate,  Weymouth,  Quincy  and 
Dorchester — distance  38  miles — fare  $1,50 — books  kept 
in  Boston,  at  Riley's,  Elm-street,  and  at  Hamilton's,  city 
hotel.  Elm-street,  and  in  Plymouth  at  old  colony  hotel— 
Proprietors,  A.  Thayer  and  B.  Gushing  &  Co. 


Plymouth,  Ftdnwuth,  Barnstable,  and  Boston  Mail  Stage, 
leaves  Barnstable  and  Falmouth,  Monday,  Wednesday, 
end  Friday  mornings,  and  arrives  in  Boston  at  5  P.  M. — 
leaves  Boyden's  (city  tavern)  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Falmouth  and  Barn- 
stable same  afternoon — at  Falmouth  it  meets  the  mail 
packet  which  runs  to  Nantucket  same  evening,  through 
Sandwich,  Kingston,  Duxbury,  Pembroke,  Hanover, 
Scituate,  Hingham ;  Qumcy,  and  Dorchester — fare  from 
Boston,  to  Plymouth,  $1,50 ;  to  Sandwich,  $2,50 ;  to 
Falmouth,  $3,50;  to  Barnstable,  $3,8^— Fropnetors, 
Simeon  Boyden  &  Co.  Bo»toji;  Sivret  and  Whiting, 
Scituate ;  George  Drew,  Plymouth. 


Portsmouth,  Concord,  Charlestown,  J^.  H.  and  Albany^ 
JV*.  Y,  Mail  Stage,  leaves  Portsmouth,  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, and  Friday  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Concord  at  5 
P.  M.— leaves  Concord  next  mornings  at  7  and  arrives  in 
Charlestown  same  day,  where  it  intersects  the  Whitehall, 
t^&ratoga  Springs  and  Albany  stages ;  over  the  N.  H- 


turnpike, 
ton.  Hen 
will  arrii 
for  St.  J( 
em  line 
intersect 
cock  and 


Partial 
day  at  4 
— leaves 
Portland 
Freeport, 
well — far 


Poiflat 
Portland 
P.  M.— 1 
Portland 
Stage  Co 

Portlar 
leaves  Pi 
arrives  in 
day  and 
P.  M.  th 
ton,  Gre( 


Paris, 
and  Wed 
P.  M.— 
A.  M.  ai 

land,  an( 


Pawlu 
hotel,  Ps 


APPENDIX. 


3G5 


turnpike,  through  Dover,  Durham,  Northwood,  Hopkin- 
ton,  Henniker,  and  Hillsborough  ;  passengers  for  Canada 
will  arrive  at  Whitehall  in  season  to  take  the  steam  boat 
for  St.  John's,  and  leave  there  in  season  to  take  the  East- 
ern line  at  Granville,  to  return.  A  line  of  stages,  which 
intersects  the  above  at  Hillsborough,  passes  through  Han- 
cock and  Peterborough. 


Portland,  Me,  and  »Sugtista  Stage,  leaves  Portland  every 
day  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Augusta  at  half  past  3  P.  M. 
— leaves  Augusta  every  day  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Portland  at  half  past  7  P.  M.  through  North  Yarmouth, 
Freeport,  Brunswick,  Bowdoinhum,  Gardiner,  and  Hallo- 
well — fare  $3— owned  by  the  Maine  Stage  Company. 


Pw^land  and  Bath,  Me,  Jlccommodation  Stage,  Isuve^ 
Portland  every  day  at  10  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Bath  at  5 
P.  M. — leaves  Bath  every  day  at  8  A.  M.  and  arrives  in 
Portland  at  2  P.  M.— fare  $l,50--owr.ed  by  the  Maine 
Stage  Company. 


Portland,  Hallowell,  and  *Sugusta  Stage,  (upper  road) 
leaves  Portland,  Monday  and  Thursday  at  5  A.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Hallowell  at  6  P.  M. — leaves  Hallowell,  Tues- 
day and  Friday  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Portland  at  6 
P.  M.  through  Gray,  New  Gloucester,  Danville,  Lewis- 
ton,  Greene,  Monmouth,  and  Winthrop — fare  $3. 


Paris,  Me,  and  Portland  Stage,  leaves  Paris,  Monday 
and  Wednesday  at  5  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Portland  at  4 
P.  M. — leaves  Portland,  Wednesday  and  Saturday  at  5 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Paris  at  4  P.  M.  through  Gray,  Po- 
land, and  Norway — fare  $2. 


Pawluctcet  and  Providence  DUigence  Stage,  leaves  Jenks's 
hotel,  Pawtucket,  every  day  at  9  A.  M.  and  2  P.  M.  and 

Kk 


•*^ 


3ti6 


APPENDIX. 


lenres  Clark's,  Providence,  at  12,  noon,  and  4  P.  M.-> 
diatance  3  miles— fare  25cts. 


Poughkeeptie^  A*.  F.  and  LUel^fieldf  Cmn,  MaU  CoacA, 
leaves  Poughkeepsie,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  at 
5  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Litchfield  same  afternoons — leaves 
Litchfield,  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  at  5  A.  M. 
and  arrives  in  Poughkeepsie  same  afternoons,  through 
Pleasant  Valley,  Washington,  Dover,  America,  Sharon, 
Ellsworth,  and  Cornwall  to  Litchfield— fare  $3— Projme- 
torSf  Wm.  Stevens  &  Co. 


Stuo  and  Portland,  Me,  »Sceommodation  Stc^e,  leaves 
Saco  every  day,  Sundays  excepted,  at  7  A.  M.  and  arrives 
in  Portland  at  9  A.  M. — leaves  Portland  same  days  at  4 
P.  M.  and  arrives  in  Saco  at  6  P.  M.—Distance  15  miles 
— fare  75  cents. — Proprietor's  Jlgent  A.  Rice,  Portsmouth. 


Saraioga  Springs  and  Manchester,  Vt.  Stage,  leaves  Sa- 
ratoga  Springs,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  at  5 
A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Manchester  same  evenings — leaves 
Black*8,  Manchester,  Tuesday,  Thuriday  and  Saturday  at 
4  A.  M.  and  arrives  at  Saratoga  Springs  same  evenings, 
through  Dorset,  Rupert,  Granville,  Fort  Ann  and  Sandy 
HUl— fare  $2. 


Saratoga  Springs  and  Lake  George  Stages,  leave  each 
place  every  morning  at  9 — distance  28  miles. — Proprietors, 
Doney  and  Patterson. 


Springfield,  Mass,  arid  Providence,  R.  L  Stage,  leaves 
Springfield,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  2  A.  M. 
breakfast  at  A.  Norcross's,  Monson,  h  past  5,  arrives  in 
Southbridge  at  |  past  9,  dine  at  Cady's,  Gloucester,  R.  I. 
i  past  2  P.  M.  and  arrives  in  Providence  at  i  past  6  same 
evenings—leaves  Providence,  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday  at  4  A.  M.  breakfast  at  Cady's,  Gloucester,  |  past 


7,  arrive 

Monson 

same  ev< 

brige, 

Smithfie 

cross,  T 

Monson 

Brimfiel 

Ammed( 

bridge ; 

Cady,  ai 


Unitet 
Courtlai 
arrives  t 
seats  at 
landt-sti 
same  sti 


Wisei 
Wiscass 
arrives 
tie,  Nol 
in  Bang 
Frankfo 
where  il 
branch ' 
Sunday, 
—next  ( 
Fasseng 
arrive  ii 
ing  Port 
take  th 
Tuesday 
leaves  I 
and  arri 
Bath  fc 
Belfast 
Bangor 


APPENDIX. 


367 


7,  arrives  in  Southbridge  at  i  past  11,  and  at  Norcross^s, 
Monson,  i  past  2  P.  M.  and  arrives  in  Springfield  at  6 
same  evenings,  through  South  Wilbraham,  Brimfield,  Stur- 
brige,  (part  of  Dudley,)  Thompson,  Conn.  Chepachet, 
Smithfield  and  North  Providence. — Proprietors,  Amos  Nor- 
cross,  Timothy  Packard,  Luther  Carter,  and  Joseph  Hall, 
Monson  ;  Lewis  Williams,  John  Wyles,  and  M.  Converse, 
Brimfield  ;  James  Wolcott,  Jr.  Samuel  A.  Groves,  E.  D. 
Ammedown,  William  Healy,  Jr.  and  John  Upham,  South- 
bridge  ;  H.  Cady,  Gloucester. — Agents,  A.  Norcross,  H. 
Cady,  and  W.  Healy,  Jr. 


XJnUed  States  Mail  Coach,  leaves  the  coach  office,  No.  1, 
Courtlandt-street,  New- York,  every  day  at  2  P.  M.  and 
arrives  at  Philadelphia  next  morning  at  6 — application  for 
seats  at  the  coach  and  steam  boat  office.  No.  1  Court- 
landt-street, or  at  the  bar  of  the  Northern  Hotel,  79 
same  street. — Proprietors,  Lyon,  Ward,  Bailey,  &  Go. 


Wiscasset,  Belfast,  an^  Bangor,  Me,  Stage,  leaves 
Wiscasset,  Sunday,  Tuesday,  and  Friday  at  2  P.  M.  and 
arrives  in  Belfast  next  days  at  10  A.  M.  via  New-Cas- 
tie,  Nobleborough,  Waldoborough,  and  Union,  and  arrives 
in  Bangor  at  6  P.  M. — on  Monday  and  Saturday  via 
Frankfort  and  Hampden,  on  Wednesday  via  Bucksport, 
where  it  arrives  at  3  P.  M. — on  Monday  and  Saturday  a 
branch  via  Warren  and  arrives  in  Thomaston  at  9  P.  M. 
Sunday,  Tuesday  and  Friday  arrives  in  Belfast  at  10  A.  M. 
•—next  days  via  Camden,  Lincolnville,  and  Northport. — 
Passengers,  leaving  Portland  on  Tuesday  and  Friday  may 
arrive  in  Bangor  next  days  via  Augusta  or  Belfast — leav- 
ing Portland  for  Bangor  on  Sunday  to  avoid  delay  must 
take  the  stage  for  Bath — leaves  Bangor  on  Sunday  and 
Tuesday  at  4  A.  M.  and  arrives  in  Belfast  at  10  A.  M. — 
leaves  Belfast,  Sunday,  Tuesday,  and  Friday  at  I  past  10, 
and  arrives  in  Wiscasset  at  8  A.  M.  next  days — fare  from 
Bath  ferry  to  Wiscasset,  50  cts. ;  Waldoborough  $1  12  ; 
Belfast  $2 ;  Bangor  $2 ;  whole  fare  from  Portland  to 
Bangor  f  7  62. 


.168 


APPENDIX. 


Rochester  to  Utica,'-Fare  at  4  cts.  per  mile. 

MUes. 

From  Rochester  to  Pittiford, 10 

.  Fullam*8  Basin, 16 

Palmyra, 29 

Newark, 37 

Lyons, 44 

Clyde, 63 

Montezuma, 64 

Bucksville, 70 

Weed's  Basin, 73 

Jordan, 79 

Canton, 85 

9  Mile  Creek, 91 

Geddes', 97 

Syracuse 99 

'  Orville, 105 

Manlius, lOB 

Cbitteningo, 116 

New  Boston,. 120 

Canastota, 124 

Oneido  Creek, 129 

Loomis', 132 

Smith's, 138 

Rome 149 

Oriskany, 153 

Whiteaborough, 156 

Utica...... IGO 


»\ 


INDEX. 


A.  •  . 

Ackland,  Major, iSi 

Lady  Harriet, 137 

Albany 42 

Alexandria  (D.  C.) 338 

Amboy 29 

Amherst 258 

Ammonoosuc  River  (Lower) 270 

Andre's  Grare 36 

Capture  and  Execution 34 

Andover 296 

Anthony's  Nose,  Hudson  River 31 

on  Erie  Canal, 60 

Lake  George ..»  172 

Antiquities 82,  102,  116,  263,  330 

Aqueduct,  Lower, 57 

Upper, 57 

at  LUtU  Falls 63 

Rochester, 75 

Arnold's  Treachery 34 

Arsenal 251 

Troy, 52 

Q,uebec, •  •  211 

Ascutney  Mountain 265 

Assomption  River 201 

Attleborough 285 

Auburn 114 

B. 

Baker's  Falls 230 

Ballston  Springs 140 

Kk2 


370 


INDEX. 


Baltimore 340 

Bangor 331 

Bartlett 310 

Basin  Harbour 184 

Batavia 104 

Bath  {Maine) 329 

iJ^.H.) 270 

(jsr.r.) 24 

Battle  of  Bemis's  Heights 127 

Bennington 127 

Bloody  Brook 259 

Booth  Bay 326 

Bridgewater,  or  Lundy*s  Lane, 89 

Bunker'sHill 288 

'^^  Chippewa 87 

-•-         Erie 98 

]^.         Groton 275 

^^-        Johnstown 60 

!;^^;        LakeGeorge    165 

'  -  Lexington 295 

•  \,         Pequod 276 

'f-''         Plattsburgh 185 

^'  Princeton 20 

^f  Quebec 215 

-r!  Do.  in  1775 217 

Queenston 81 

Rocky  Brook 160 

Sachem's  Field 281 

:  ■'  Saratoga 147 

:  Ticonderoga 218 

Trenton 19 

-    ^         Turner's  Falls 261 

White  Plains 29 

Beauport 218 

Bellows  Falls 263 

Bethlehem 16 

Beverly 319 

Black  Rock 99 

Bloody  Brook 259 

Pond 160 

Bloomfield 106 


INDEX. 


371 


340 
331 
310 
184 
104 
329 
270 

24 
127 
127 
259 
326 

89 
288 

87 

98 
275 

60 
165 
295 
276 
IBS 

20 
215 
217 

81 
160 
281 
147 
218 

19 
261 

29 
218 
263 

16 
319 

99 
259 
160 
106 


Blue  Hills 286 

Book  recommended 25 

Borough 122 

Boston 287 

Bordentown 18 

Brattleborough 262 

Bristol 18 

Brock's  Monument  82 

Battery 214 

Brookfield 292 

Bufialo 99 

Bunker's  Hill 288 

Burgoyne's  (Gen.)  Expedition 124 

BatUeGround 129 

Qu  irters 137 

Retreat 136 

'^'  Surrender < 155 

Burlington  (JV.  J. )  •  - 183 

{Vermont) 269 

Caldwell 161 

Canada,  General  Remarks  on 94 

Canals, 

Blackstone  Canal 285 

!      Cayuga  and  Susquehannah  do 113 

']      Cliampiain  do 55^ 

Connecticut  do 252 

'       Eriedo 342 

Maine  do 328 

Massachusetts  do 252 

Pennsylvania  do 10,  16 

Vermont  do   (proposed) 272 

Wellanddo 273 

Canal  Boat,  Description  of, 50 

Canal  Routes, 

From  Albany  to  Schenectady 50 

Auburn  to  Syracuse 116 

Boston  to  Chelmsford 295 

^  J ;    Rochester  to  Lockport 78 

'     Schenectady  to  Albany •  •  •  •  119 


372 


INDEX. 


From  Schenectady  to  Utica SS 

Syracuse  to  Uoehester 74 

Syracuse  to  Utica 117 

Utica  to  Schenectady 118 

Utica  to  Syracuse 66 

Cansyoharie 60 

Canandaigua 106 

Gape  Diamond 812 

Rouge 222 

St.  Vincent 98 

Carthage 73 

Castle  of  St.  Louis 211 

Catskill 37 

Mountains 37 

Caughnawaga 59 

Cayuga  Lake Ill 

Centre  Harbour. 301 

Chambly 224 

Charleston  {S,  C.)  , 334 

Charlestown  (Mass.) 288 

(JSr.H.) 264 

Charter  of  Connecticut 243 

Chaudiere  River 207 

Chazy 186 

Chelmsford 297 

Chimney  Point 181 

Chippewa 87 

Cleaveland 101 

Coal  Mines  of  Pennsylvania 16, 17 

Colleges, 

Amherst 258 

Andover 296 

Brown 284 

Burlington 185,  269 

Cambridge 295 

Dartmouth 269 

Hamilton 64 

Yale 233 

Concord 298 

Congress  Hall 148 

Spring..... ,,.  14 


INDEX.  .    373 

Connecticut  River • 238 

Navigation  of  do 271 

Conway 305 

Crawford's  House. 312 

Crow  Point 181 

D. 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylums 224 

Dedham 285 

Deerfield 260 

Delaware  River 18 

-     and  Hudson  Canal 16 

and  Rariton  do 19 

and  Susquehannah  do 10 

Dieskau  (Gen.) 165 

Dobb's  Ferry 29 

Dorchester  Heights 289 

Dover 297 

Dunning-street 123 

East  Bay 227 

East  Canada  Creek 60 

Easton 12 

Elizabethtown • 21 

Essex  (Cmin.) 238 

(jsr.r.) 185 

F. 
Fairfield 231 

Falls, 

Baker's 230 

Bellows 263 

Carthage 76 

Catskill 40 

Glen's 158 

Ithaca 113 

Miller's 230 

Montmorency 218 

Niaglara 80 


^  ■ 


374 


INDEX. 


Rochester 76 

South  Hadley 25l 

Trenton 65 

Turner's 261 

FiflhUU  Mountain 37 

Franconia 300 

Frazer's  Death 138 

Grave 136 

Forts. 

,       Adams 282 

Anne 228 

.     Clinton 30 

.       CrowuPoint 181 

,;      Edward 230 

r       Green 283 

Griswold 275 

Herkimer 64 

t      Hunter., 29 

Independence 29 

Lee. 28 

Miller 131 

Mohawk's 29 

;      Montgomery 30 

' '      Niagara 47 

•^      Oswego.... 97 

*  Plain 60 

Putnam 32 

*  Saybrook 237 

Stanwix 66 

Ticonderoga 173 

Trumbull 274 

Washington 28 

William  Henry 168 

Wolcott 282 

Fryeburgh . .  306 

Galloway 145 

Gates's  (Gen,)  Camp 128 

Geddesburgh 73 

Genesee  River. 96 


Geneseo 
Georgeti 
German 
Grand  R 
Green  B 
Greenfie 
Gulf  Ro 


Haddam 
Hadley . 
Hallowe 
Hambun 
Hamptoi 
Hanover 
Harlem. 
Hartford 

Hatfield 
Haverhil 

Hell  Gat 
Herkime 

Highland 
Hoboken 
Horsenei 
Hudson. 
] 
Hunt's  F 
Hydrost] 


Mei 
Mol 
Mol 
Pok 
One 
Peqi 
Sen 
Tus 


INDEX. 


37; 


Geneaeo 105 

Georgetown  (D.  C-) 838 

German  Flats ....  63 

Grand  River 101 

Green  Bay ,, 101 

Greenfield 250 

Gulf  Road 265 

H. 

Haddatn 239 

Hadley 258 

Hallowel 332 

Hamburgh 13 

Hampton , 322 

Hanover 269 

Harlem 231 

Hartford  (Conn.) 243 

{Vermont) 184 

Hatfield 253 

Haverhill  (Mass.) 297 

(JV.  r.) 270 

Hell  Gate 232 

Herkimer .' 64 

(Gen.) 61 

Highlands 30 

Hoboken 27 

Horseneck 231 

Hudson.  41 

River. • 26 

Hunt's  Farm. 264 

Hydrostatic  Locks 53,  64,  71 

I, 

Indians, 

Menominies •  101 

'    Mohawks 59 

Mobegans 279 

Pokanokets 283 

Oneidas 67 

Pequods 231,  277 

Senecas 102 

Tuscaroras 70 


.1.^4 


376 


INDEX. 


Islands. 

In  Lake  Champlain * 184 

George 163 

Ontario 184 

Isle  Aux  Noix 186 

Ithaca 113 

J. 

Jacques  Cartier 207 

Jarvis's  Farm 263 

Johnson  {Sir  Wm») 59 

Johnstown 59 

Junction 55 

^.  ••  .....  K.  ■     ?. 

Ken.3ebec  River 329 

Kennebunk 324 

Kidd,  the  Pirate 235 

Kingsbridge   29 

Kosciusko's  Retreat 32 

Ktardin  Mountain. 331 

■''     ■•••    ■      ■■'      ■     L. 

La  Fayette  Spring 141 

Lakes, 

Cayuga Ill 

Ganandaigua 107 

Champlain 180 

Erie 91, 100 

George «...  161 

Excursion  to, 157 

Of  the  Clouds 315 

Ontario , 91 

St.  Peter 205 

Saratoga 151 

Seneca 110 

Winnipiseogee 300 

Lancaster 271 

Laprairie 190 

Lead  Mines 241 


1ND£X. 


377 


.  184 

.  163 

.  184 

.  186 

.  113 


.  207 

.  263 

.  59 

.  59 

.  55 


329 
324 
235 
29 
32 
Z'Sl 


111 
107 
180 
91,  100 
161 
157 
315 
91 
205 
151 
110 
300 
271 
190 
241 


Lebanon  Springs 44 

Leroy 104 

Lewiston 80 

Lexington 295 

Little  Falls 63 

Littleton 270 

Little  Schuylkill 14 

Liverpool . . . .  ■ 73 

Lockport 79 

Long-Branch 24 

Long  Level 64 

Lorette 212 

LovePs  Fight 308 

Pond 307 

LunJy's  Lane 89 

Lynn, 318 

M'Crea's  Murder 229 

M'Donough's  Victory 185 

Macbiche 201 

Maitland's  (Sir  P  )  Residence 81 

Manayunk 12 

Maps, 

Hudson  River 26  and  onward. 

Erie  Canal 50  and  onioard. 

Lake  Champlain.   170  and  onward. 

of  the  Routes 1 

Connecticut  River 232 

St.  Lawrence 200 

Marblebead 320 

Massacre  at  Fort  Wm.  Henry 163 

Mauch  CUunk 17 

Mechanicville 122 

Miantonimo 2S1 

Middletown 240 

Military  Academy — West  Point 33 

Middletown 240 

Miller's  Falls 230 

Mohawk £9,  61 

Mohegan 277 

LI 


373 


INDEX. 


Montmorency. , 218 

Montpelier 266 

Montreal 192 

Morristown 98 

Mbunt  Carbon 14 

Holyoke 255 

Hope 283 

Vernon 338 

Washington 313 

N. 

Nahant 290 

New-Brunswick 21 

Newburgh , 36 

Newburyport 321 

New-Haven 232 

New-Lebanon  Springs 44 

New-London 275 

Newport 281 

New-York 22 

Niagara  Falls,  from  American  side 80 

Canada  side 83 

Norristown 13 

Norwich 279 

Northampton 252 

Notch  in  the  Mountains 312 

House 31 1 

0. 

Ogdensburgh 98 

Oneida 67 

Orange  Springs 37 

Orwigsburgh 14 

Oswego 97 

Canal 71 

Overslaugh 41 

Ox  Bow 270 

Packet  Ships 24 

Boats  on  Canals 50 


.jt*  » 


218 

266 

192 

98 

14 

255 

283 

338 

313 


290 
21 
36 
321 
232 
44 
275 
281 
22 
80 
83 
13 

279 

252 

312 

311 


98 
67 
37 
14 
97 
71 
41 
270 


INDEX. 


379 


Palatine 61 

Palisadoes 27 

Paria 310 

Pawtucket 284 

Pequod  Indians 231 

Perth  Amboy 21 

Philadelphia 5 

Pickwaket  Mountain 30o 

Piermont 270 

Pine  Orchard 38 

Plainfield 881 

Plains  of  Abraham 215 

Pittsburgh 185 

Port  Genesee 96 

Port  Kent 185 

Portland 325 

Portsmouth 322 

Poughkeepsie 37 

Princeton 20 

Prisons,  {State) 

Maine 330 

Massachusetts 289 

New-York 114 

New-Hampshire t 298 

Pennsylvania ...» j 6 

Vermont 265 

Providence ^ 284 

Q. 

Quebec 208 

Queenstown 81 

Kapids  of  Niagara 85 

Richelieu 206 

St.  Mary 201 

Red  Mountain 301 

Reidesel,  Baroness, 137 

Rensselaerwyck 50 

Ridge  Road 78 


3S0 


INDEX. 


*  Roads.     (Sec  page  344.) 

Routes.     (See  Tours.) 

Roxbury 285 

Koyalton 266 

Saco 324 

Sackett's  Harbour 97 

St.  Johns 18S 

St.  Lawrence 191, 200 

Salem 319 

Salina 71 

Salt  Springs 73 

Sandusky 101 

Sandy  Greek •. 77 

Sandy  Hill 159 

Sandy  Lake 52 

Sans  Souci 140 

Saratoga  147 

Saybrook 236 

Schenectady 57 

Schoharie  Greek 59 

Scholey's  Mountain  Springs 24 

Schuyler,  Gen 155 

Schuylersviile 154 

Schuylkill  River 11,  12 

Water  Works 8 

Shaker  Village 47 

Seneca  Indians 102 

Lake 110 

Sorel  River 186 

Village 204 

South  Bay 226 

Spa,  Ballston 140 

Lebanon 44 

^   Saratoga 147 

Springs. 

'    Ballston 140 

'    Burning 87,  107 

New-Lebanon 44 

Saratoga 147 


Spring 
Squai 
Staffoi 
Statei 


INDEX. 


381 


Suffield 249 

White  Mountains 306 

Springfield 250 

Squam  Lake 304 

Stafford 344 

Staten  Island '21 

Steam  Boats. 

From  New- York  up  the  Hudson 26,  27 

New-York  to  Connecticut 22 

New- York  to  Rhode  Island 22 

on  Cayuga  Lake Ill 

on  Lake  Champlain 224 

on  Lake  George 163 

on  Lake  Ontario 96 

on  Lake  Erie » 101 

on  the  St.  Lawrence 200 

Stillwater 123 

Stonington  276 

Stony  Point 30 

Suffield 249 

Sugar-Loaf  Hill 259 

Syracuse 70 

T.  ^ 

Table  Rock 84 

Tarrytown 29 

Thames  River 277 

Thimble  Islands 235 

Thomastown 330 

Three  Rivers - 205 

Ticuiideroga 173,  225 

Tour  of  Maine 318 

of  New-England 231 

to  Niagara 50 

to  the  Pennsylvania  Coal  Mines 9 

to  Quebec 157 

to  the  White  Mountains 295 

L12 


382  INDEX. 

I- 

•  :.  ,,.;..■^        -.       ,      u.     .    ..'  •' 

Uncaa 279 

Utica 64 

V.     • 

Vernon  (Mount) 33S 

Verplanck^s  Point 20 

W. 

WadswortVs  Farm 105 

Walpole  (N.  H.)   262 

( Mass. ) 285 

Ware 293 

Washington   336 

Waterloo (N.  Y.) 113 

(Canada) 93 

Waterford 121 

Water  Gap 14 

Weed's  Basin 74 

Weehawken 27 

Weigh  Locks 53,  64,  71 

Welles. ..4,. 327 

West  Canada  Creek 65 

West  PoiSff': 33 

Weth^rsfield,  (Con.) 232 

(Verm.) 264 

Whirlpool 83 

Whitehall 227 

White  Mountains 313 

River 265 

Wiscasset 329 

Wolfe's  Cove 207 

Wood  Creek,  near  L.  Champlain 228 

Worcester j> 247 

Y. 
York 323 


279 
64 


33S 
20 


,  105 

262 

285 

293 

336 

113 

93 

121 

14 

74 

27 

1,71 

327 

65 

33 

232 

264 

83 

227 

313 

265 

329 

207 

228 

247 


ST] 


Atth 
posite  t 
all  the  I 
Statistic 

Eddy's  : 

portal 

Thes 

inost( 

a  larg< 

Engia 

best  m 

lers  0 

and  Ei 

Melisli's 

six  sh( 

liii  an( 

Other  M 

prices, 

MelisWs 

projecl 

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Isthmu 

ble  boo 

nameni 

Mtl%sh?s  i 

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a  new 

enlarge 

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plete list  of  towns,  cities,  villages,  &c. — post-office  rp- 
gulations,  land-offices,  and  military  posts — the  last  na- 
tional census — a  view,  comparative  and  prospective,  of 
the  population — and  a  statistical  view  of  the  United 
States,  containing  a  geographical  description  of  the 
United  States,  and  of  each  state  and  territory,  with 
topographical   tables  of  the  counties,  towns,  popula- 
tion, &c.,  being  a  complete  epitome  of  the  geography 
and  statistics  of  this  country — the  whole  is  the  result 
of  several  years'  labour  and  research — one  vol.  12mo. 
of  250  pages,  with  a  map  of  the  United  States,  dia- 
gram, &c. — price  $2  half-bound,  or  $2  50  done  up  iti 
a  pocket-book  form,  in  red  morocco,  with  a  tuck,  &c. 
Picture  of  J^ew-Yorkj  and  Stranger''s  Guides  a  new  and 
improved  edition,  with  a  new  map  of  the  city,  list  of 
streets,  and  views  of  public  buildings  -         jjJl  50 

A  new  and  embellished  Plan  of  the  City  of  J^ew-York, 
or  Stranger's  Manual,  showing  the  new  division  of  tlie 
city  into  12  wards — coloured — price,  60  cents  in  a 
vslieot,  or  75  cents  in  a  red  ca?e. 


Akerly's  Geological  View  of  the  Country  adjacent  to  ihe 
Hudson  River,  with  a  coloured  sketch  and  profile — 75 
cents. 

Map  of  the  Hudson  River,  on  7  sheets,  on  a  scale  of  two 
miles  to  the  inch — exhibiting  the  mountains,  altitudes, 
country-seats,  cities,  villages,  distances,  &c.  in  a  man- 
ner highly  satisfactory  to  the  scientific  or  curious  tra- 
veller— price  $1  50,  or  done  up  in  a  portable  form  and 
half-bound  $2  50. 

New  Map  of  MexicOf  by  Tanner,  on  one  large  sheet  of 
bank  paper,  coloured,  price         -        -        -        $2  50 

New  Map  of  the  Republic  of  Colomhiaf  on  one  sheet — a 
most  beautiful  and  correct  map  -        -        $1  50 

New  Map  of  Florida,  on  one  large  sheet  of  bank  paper, 
coloured — exhibiting  the  route  and  facilities  for  the 
new  national  Ship  Canal  across  the  Isthmus         $2  50 

Maps  and  Profiles  of  the  New-York  Canals 

Spafibrd's  Gazetteer  of  the  State  of  New- York,  new  edi- 
tion, of  600  pages  of  closely  printed  matter,  forming  a 
minute  description  of  every  place,  with  the  most  exact 
details  of  statistics — with  a  map  of  the  state — Svo.  full 
bound    -- $3 

Spafibrd^s  Pocket  Guide  to  the  Canals,  and  interior  com- 
merce of  the  State  of  New- York,  2d  edition — price 
50  cents. 

History  of  the  State  of  New- York,  by  Yates  and  Moul- 
ton,  1st  vol. $1  50 


Aliases. 

Lavoisgnes  Atlas,  folio.  .        .        _        -         g;25 

The  American  Atlas,  on  the  plan  of  Lavoisgnes,  contain- 
ing 53  maps,  and  numerous  chronological  and  historical 
tables,  folio,  half-bound  -        -        -        .        $20 

Finley^s  General  Atlas,  containing  60  maps  quarto  size-^ 
coloured,  finished,  and  bound  in  the  best  manner,  and  is 
the  cheapest  and  besl  collection  published        -        $10 

Finley's  American  Alias,  containing  15  folio  sheets  of 
maps  on  a  large  scale,  coloured         -        .        -        $8 

Morse''s  new  Universal  Atlas  of  the  world,  on  an  improved 
plan*,  consisting  of  30  maps,  carefully  prepared  from 


<  I 


Wm  latest  authorities,  with  complete  alphabetical  iri' 
dexes,  quarto $7 

Maps  of  Europe^  Jlsia,  and  Africa,  on  4  sheets,  mounted, 
and  coloured,  each         .....  ^g 

do.  do.  London  edit.  -        -        -        -        -        jj(l2 

Maps  of  various  sizes  on  one  sheet  from  50  cents  to    $^3 

Dissected  maps  of  the  United  States,  Kngland,  Scotland, 
Ireland,  turope,  \sia,  Africa,  North  and  South  Ame- 
rica, and  others,  from  $1  oO  to  %'i  50. 

The  Travdjer's  Guide  in  New- England,  containing  the 
Connecticut  River  Tour,  60  cents. 

The  Northern  Traveller,  or  Guide  to  the  Lakes  and 
Springs,  &c.  a  new  edition  containing  ^00  pages  l8mo. 
with  28  views  and  maps — neatly  half-bound,  $2  50 
— the  same  with  8  maps  added,  viz.  of  the  environs  of 
Boston,  New- York,  Fhiladelpbta,  Baltimore,  Washing- 
ton, Charleston,  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  Ballston  and 
Saratoga  Springs— /u//  bmmd^  and  gilt,  $3  50 

Vance's  M&p  of  the  middle  and  western  counties  of  the 
State  of  New- York,  on  a  scale  oi  5  miles  to  the  inch — 
price  $8,  in  a  portable  form. 

A.  T.  Goodrich,  124  Broadway,  also  keeps  for  sale,  the 
best  assortment  of  fine  Stationary,  and  articles  for  the 
use  of  travellers,  viz.  patent  glass,  air  tight,  and  brass 
screw  top  Ink^^tands — toilet  Inkstands,  silver  and  steel 
pens,  silver  and  gold  pencil  cases,  Rodgers'  best  Pen- 
knives, Scissors,  Morocco  writing  cases,  and  roll  up 
Port  Folios  and  Pouches,  Flat  ditto. — Albums  and 
Blank  Books,  copying  Machines,  and  manifold  writers, 
Chess  Men  and  boards,  Backgammon  boards,  Morocco 
wallets,  Pocket  Books  and  Thread  ca^es,  Steel  purses, 
Pocket  Globes,  Pens,  Quills,  Sealing  wax  in  fancy 
boxes,  of  assorted  colouj-s.  Wafers,  Bath  Paper,  and 
English  letter  and  note  paper,  and  American  paper,  of 
the  best  quality,  Visiting  cards  and  boxes. 

Of  Books  and  J^ew  F*ublicationSj  a  general  assortment. 

Travellers  and  strangers  just  arriving  in  this  country  from 
Europe  or  elsewhcp-,  can  always  receive  at  this  place 
the  most  correct  iiiformation  as  to  the  geography  and 
statistics  of  the  United  States. 


